Hi Chris, Your wood base is perfect for this project (thank you), it is a great foundation to keep this little engine secure while we keep going, breaking it in, and when we build the cart for it. I hope that shipping was good and you've had a chance to enjoy running your #3 🙂. Thanks again for watching and commenting, keep up your GREAT work 👍
Hi Gary, I really am excited to see how this one turns out. Unfortunately I am waiting for a new end mill that I ordered (lost in shipping). I have had a suggestion from a friend to use a slitting saw, maybe this shipping snafu is a sign? Thanks again for watching and commenting 👍. I really enjoy reading everyone's comments.
i amazed. I bought 1/8 galloway casting for same price as one of these engine running. I just bought one. Can't wait to run it and tinker on it. It'll be my 3rd hit miss model. Last one i built was hit miss perkins casting. The valves are the hardest to make and seat. I always made them from a stainless steel bolts.
These are by far the best "ready to run" starting points that I've found especially for the price. Are they perfect out of the box? It depends on how perfect you want it to be, but yes, they will run. How you make it your own is up to you. Casting kits are fantastic and the outcome is well worth the time and effort. If you don't have the equipment or the time to "carve" one from a shaped block, these are perfect. I would love to see them offer a 2 in 1 kit (like the plastic models of Chevelle's and Nova's when I was a kid)
Just found your channel.....Great job on the Under cut, weight Removed & semi Ballance Crankshaft throw.....That Installed crank Is the Easiest turning I ever seen !! ....That soft Aluminum con Rod running Directly on hard crank Journal Without any bearing Shell is kinda Different......Think I would drill & Tap an Oiler Hole in the Upper con rod Cap for easy Assured Heavy Wt Oiling of crank Pin.......Most of the Fastest wear starts there & knocks if not Kept heavy lubed.....Did you get the Functional piston Drip Oiler installed ?? ....That Rubber O--ring Likes direct cylinder wall Pre-oiling before runs.....Thx for vids...
I`d like to tell you of my mods to the same engine. Quite a few. 1) My piston pin wasn`t secured in any way so had to tap and fit a 1.5mm grub screw to the rod. 2) I also balanced the crank. Worked out I had to remove 16.9 grams from the pin side of the crank to give balance factor of 50%.This made a HUGE improvement to the awful shaking around.Whilst this only improves primary balance it doesn`t help much with secondary balance so the next mod is to reduce the diameter of the bob weights then rebalance to get back to 50%. 3) Ball races on the crank. 4) The plug is really recessed in the head so carefully relieved around the plug hole to give better burning. 5) I found the engine is very sensitive to height of fuel level in the tank. Lifting up or lowering gives a rich or lean mixture. It needs a long slim horizontal tank at carb level. 6) In the middle of converting to hall effect ignition. Those contacts are too fragile . The slightest accidental touch to them will bend the springs altering the timing in the process. This has a secondary advantage . The cam now no longer has to be that shape as it no longer triggers the ignition so the cam shape can be altered along with the pushrod length as it no longer needs that massive valve clearance. 7) And finally, at least for now. There`s an easy way to slow it down. The latch lever has a hole for the tiny spring to sit in. All that`s needed is to drill a new hole further away from the pivot thereby reducing the spring pressure.
very nice build and reuse of the wooden base from the PM #3 you repaired and sent to me. Thank you very much my friend.
Hi Chris, Your wood base is perfect for this project (thank you), it is a great foundation to keep this little engine secure while we keep going, breaking it in, and when we build the cart for it. I hope that shipping was good and you've had a chance to enjoy running your #3 🙂. Thanks again for watching and commenting, keep up your GREAT work 👍
It's looking very good. I'm impressed on how balanced that the bearings and your work has made it.
Hi Gary, I really am excited to see how this one turns out. Unfortunately I am waiting for a new end mill that I ordered (lost in shipping). I have had a suggestion from a friend to use a slitting saw, maybe this shipping snafu is a sign? Thanks again for watching and commenting 👍. I really enjoy reading everyone's comments.
i amazed. I bought 1/8 galloway casting for same price as one of these engine running. I just bought one. Can't wait to run it and tinker on it. It'll be my 3rd hit miss model. Last one i built was hit miss perkins casting.
The valves are the hardest to make and seat. I always made them from a stainless steel bolts.
These are by far the best "ready to run" starting points that I've found especially for the price. Are they perfect out of the box? It depends on how perfect you want it to be, but yes, they will run. How you make it your own is up to you. Casting kits are fantastic and the outcome is well worth the time and effort. If you don't have the equipment or the time to "carve" one from a shaped block, these are perfect. I would love to see them offer a 2 in 1 kit (like the plastic models of Chevelle's and Nova's when I was a kid)
Very nice.
The craftsmanship is fantastic.
Thanks for sharing.
Just subscribed to your channel.
Take care, EM.
Hi Ed, Thank you for your encouraging comment. Welcome to the shop and the best bunch of guy's you'd ever want to meet. 👍
Just found your channel.....Great job on the Under cut, weight Removed & semi Ballance Crankshaft throw.....That Installed crank Is the Easiest turning I ever seen !! ....That soft Aluminum con Rod running Directly on hard crank Journal Without any bearing Shell is kinda Different......Think I would drill & Tap an Oiler Hole in the Upper con rod Cap for easy Assured Heavy Wt Oiling of crank Pin.......Most of the Fastest wear starts there & knocks if not Kept heavy lubed.....Did you get the Functional piston Drip Oiler installed ?? ....That Rubber O--ring Likes direct cylinder wall Pre-oiling before runs.....Thx for vids...
I`d like to tell you of my mods to the same engine. Quite a few.
1) My piston pin wasn`t secured in any way so had to tap and fit a 1.5mm grub screw to the rod.
2) I also balanced the crank. Worked out I had to remove 16.9 grams from the pin side of the crank to give balance factor of 50%.This made a HUGE improvement to the awful shaking around.Whilst this only improves primary balance it doesn`t help much with secondary balance so the next mod is to reduce the diameter of the bob weights then rebalance to get back to 50%.
3) Ball races on the crank.
4) The plug is really recessed in the head so carefully relieved around the plug hole to give better burning.
5) I found the engine is very sensitive to height of fuel level in the tank. Lifting up or lowering gives a rich or lean mixture. It needs a long slim horizontal tank at carb level.
6) In the middle of converting to hall effect ignition. Those contacts are too fragile . The slightest accidental touch to them will bend the springs altering the timing in the process. This has a secondary advantage . The cam now no longer has to be that shape as it no longer triggers the ignition so the cam shape can be altered along with the pushrod length as it no longer needs that massive valve clearance.
7) And finally, at least for now. There`s an easy way to slow it down. The latch lever has a hole for the tiny spring to sit in. All that`s needed is to drill a new hole further away from the pivot thereby reducing the spring pressure.
With all the tweeks you have done this should run smooth and reliably. Looking forward to the next installment.
Nice man😊
👍🏼