You two are some of the luckiest people alive, you've found each other, you're building your own house in a beautiful place and you've not had any accidents
Just watched this. I've been sawing on my Woodmizer for almost 20 years and I find it easiest to saw with the small end of the log facing the sawyer. Starting at the small end allows for more wiggle room because you're always working towards a diameter that gets larger rather than smaller. That way you give yourself the best chance to get what you want out of the log. When I have the logs delivered I always have the driver place the logs small end towards the head of the saw so I'm not wasting time flipping logs around. I've sawn a lot of timbers for timber frames and it's always critical that the 2nd face is always sawn perfectly square to the first face so you'll end up with a square timber, otherwise you'll end up with a parallelogram which no timber framer wants to deal with. It's great that you both have the ambition and willingness to learn and make mistakes building your own house. Enjoy the process!
Superb! You guys took a TREE...and made a beautiful and precise structural building component from it that will last as long as the house stands. And it will be a constant and visible reminder to you of the knowledge, determination and skills you acquired along the way.
Jesse, you should start cuts on the small end first to maximize what you get out of the log. also adjust log on opposite end for vertical height based on centers of the log. So you can jack up or lift the far end away from your starting cut. so centers are level and cut will be on the correct plane from the center. More material will come off the end of the cut which is what you want.
Keep up the good work, Very encouraging and inspirational, Good or bad right or wrong is not important Working as a team Learning and sharing your journey is a blessing to watch. May God Bless your efforts and bring you and the Family Great joy for many years to come.
Don't worry about planing or sanding. The saw cuts smooth enough and with the heart included in the post it will develop a large crack on the surface when it dries anyway. Be aware that the log will flex when a cut is made due to internal stresses in the log. In general the sap wood is in compression and the heart wood is in tension. When you make a cut and remove the sap wood as a slab, the remaining log will likely flex and not be straight.
You want the center of the log to be parallel to the bed of the saw, leave the thick end fixed and raise the thin end till both ends are the same height from the saw bed. (Level is not what counts, parallel to the bed is what counts).
It's exciting to see your progress on the house.Love how you two work together and it is a big help to have another person to help.It seems i 've always worked alone and yes you have to be creative.Can't wait till the timber frame starts to go up.
Love watching your progress! We are building a small dog kennel on our homestead and we gained a lot of knowledge from all of your foundation preparation and your concrete work and pour. Thanks!
Trees twist as they grow due to correlis effect so you will never align the grain at each end. You need to clear out your log deck and put two logs at right angles to your mill deck. All the logs then get stacked on these two logs, no more lifting logs up onto the mill. Simply roll them onto your mill. Loving the videos all the way in New Zealand
With all of the milling that you are doing, I suggest collecting as much of the sawdust as possible. It can be made into "pucks" that can be burned for heat.
Jesse - replace at least one of your hooks with an oversized hook. That way when you lift, it will tighten up on the log and the log can not shift/slip. The equivalent using rope is to make a bowline around the standing part of the rope.
Really enjoy following you make your dreams become reality! I would suggest that clearing out all equipment etc. that is not used in your current activity will make it less likely that an accident and damage to equipment or injury occurs. Always keeping the job site completely clear for footing as well as equipment swing space pays off.
I enjoy watching your honest process. I've had a little experience working on timber frames and lots of experience moving heavy stuff. I get nervous when I see your wife handling the timber directly when you're moving the logs with your backhoe. Can you please use a tag line (rope connected to one end) to maneuver the logs when hanging from the bucket. A tag line allows one to work outside of the danger area and away from pinch points. I would hate to see a crushing accident. Great job so far! Lastly, did you prime the steel at the tops of the last two vertical garage posts? You showed it on the first, but not the last couple. It would be nice to see you prime the entire steel beam, because it will continue to rust even when out of the weather.
Love your videos, watch u every day and look forward to seeing u on your house build, love watching u work together with your wife, I am aware of how much stress is involved in doing what u do , alisa is awsome person. It's nice to see a husband values the abilities of his wife.
I have done a lot of turning logs into timber over the years. The easy way for you is make one 1/2 inch shim and shims in one inch increments up to about 5 or 6 inchs. measure from saw mill frame to center of log on thick end Ditto on thin end. Shim the difference on thin end secure log and cut
Guys I have to say I never watched a series of video like you are doing. Man the work in filming and editing on top of the work on the house built. My word is AMAZING !!!!. Keep it up, you are both doing great team work !!!!!!!! ♥
Just a tip because this is something I do know about. In the long run you will be so much happier if you go head like your doing and plane and then sand because when it's left rough, even when you seal it it will get full of diet and grime and dust over the years. The smooth with a nice tung oil is so pleasing. Anyway, you guys are great! Keep up the great work and thanks so much for all the hard work on your videos also!!
You need to line up the middle of the log at each end. Take the diameter at each end and then put a wedge under the small end that is the difference divided by 2. This will make the center at each end line up on the same horizontal plane.
I'm fortunate to have rolling and adjustable toe boards on my woodmizer. However even without them I always put the smaller diameter end of the logs at the sawmill carriage end. This allows you to take your measurements from the sawmill bed . Using a short stick as a tool I lift that end so the log is level and put a wedge underneath to secure it there. As you mentioned in the video its essential to have the center of the log level from end to end. Starting the blade at the smaller end gives you a better picture of what the log will yield. Your grappler hook attachment will allow you lift and spin a log to place it on the mill bed. Its a lot of messing around but that tip alone saves you walking back and forth several times to check the alignment. Cheers
Great job guys! I hope im not reapeating a previous comment but on my sawmill i always put the small end towards the head of the mill. It works for me because I don't have to make as many cuts to get where i want to be. I also agree with a past comment about pouring a slab. You will be very happy you made the investment😀 trust me lol. It gives you a good reference to measure the pith elevation on both ends and gives you something flat and sturdy to jack up the end you need to raise.you guys are doing great keep up the good work
For banana-shaped logs, I turn the hump up first and slice enough off so that when I turn the hump down, it sits solid on the mill. Then I shave the turned up ends off.
Please cover your building materials and supplies, even if it doesn't rain, the moisture in the night will cause the wood to swell while its surface would sink in pressure points, causing symmetry problems later on.
Very much enjoying your exploits in house building. Glad to see you are doing everything you can to keep your standards up. Up where we are on the wet coast, we had 30 red cedars milled up and stored most of them including the waned pieces. All the good stuff went into exterior trim etc., and from the other stuff I have put in over 1000' of deer fencing. and have almost run out. Throw away nothing, you will use it all, even if it is fire starter. The same goes for the Douglas fir. Used the best lumber for columns (cedar) and the best fir for treads and trim etc.
Find center on both ens. Use a scribe and strigb to find center level throughout the length of the log. Raise the smaller end until it is level with the cutting plane of the mill.
I remember from wood shop, only sand with the grain wood, # 2 when debarking a log, take a shovel, and run it up the log, from fouch-o-matic off grid, the curve of the log will all most match of shovel.
Just an FYI, when you're moving heavy stuff with equipment and aren't completely confident with the weight carry it in as close as you can and low as possible, if you do end up lifting wheels they can only go as far as your material is from the ground at most.
You got that fancy Bosch level, tack a stake on each end, mark 12 (or whatever works, as long as it’s the same on each end. Level the small end to the big end and the center cuts will be parallel/as straight as possible.
Just binged watched all the way from the start of the lite forming. Was a real threat to follow along! daily 30min videos is really hard to do if you want it to be more than time lapses. Kepp it up
Hi! Great video guys, you really pushing out the human limits, I really enjoy viewing it. My father has a swing-blade sawmill we built 2 years ago. Positioning the log is basically the same I think. You don't have to use laser... just complicating the procedure. We always look for the crown in the log. Make sure the crown is always sideways as it would lie on the desk. Measure the butt diameter and the top diameter without the bark. Subtract the two numbers and divide it by two. Cut a piece of lumber to that thickness and place it under the top end. Wedge out the middle properly to avoid deflection. Secure the 3 supports with detachable locking pins beneath, staved deeply in the bark. From this starting position I use to do 1-2 horizontal cuts and same vertical cuts on the crowned side. The goal here is to reach at least 2/3 of the log length with that cut. After that we repositioning the log on the crowned side, now it's a flat surface except the ends and than the cutting party begins. Definitely needs some wedging 1/8 - 1/4 here and there, that's usual. This precision is fairly acceptable at over 12 ft logs. Hope it is useful! Good job guys! Keep it goin'!
Water tube level! Its cheep, easy, accurate, and it works over long distances! And if you put a 5gal bucket in the middle of the tube ends you can increase your distance and verticality, also with the bucket added you can more level points (tube ends).
Water levels are the most under-appreciated and under-used tool in the arsenal. I used one to set the grade on my driveway, and was able to maintain the 1/8 inch per foot slope over the 100 foot length.
YAY!! Sub since the hotub. Viewer since the septic tank. Been waiting for this since I moved to Colorado. I know Jesse dosn't read these comments, but I've been rooting for you both since the beginning. I get it all. Now (2 weeks ago) it's getting real. The haters will hate. Push on anyway. Woop Woop!!
A suggestion- if any of those logs are cedar and you have some extra, line the inside of a closet with it. You can store your winter/summer clothes there and not about moths or whatever
when you set the large end use the mill gauge to get a center measurement then take mill to other end and set back to same reading and position log to center of blade lock in place check max finish cut small end . cut . tip 90 second set up again . cut .
I would pick 2 really nice logs, and only put small squares (pegs) at the top and the bottom to attache to the brackets, leaving the rest of the entire length of the log with the bark on it. That would be a really cool look in the lower level. If the bark look isn't your thing, the bark could be peeled off leaving a round post with all it's character.
Sounds like Alyssa is getting the bug, the beauty of the wood is what makes it worth it. Wait till later when you start picking out certain pieces because of the look of the grain and saving them for special projects.
I have sawn timber frame timbers on a lt15. To center heart of log we built 2 tee shaped scales. 2x4 lays across bed rails then 2x4 goes up in center with an inch scale on it, 0 to 24 inches. Set one at each end of log on rails then leveled them to match scale on each end. Easy fast and made from scraps. No level or strings needed.
Hey Jessie.. always have the small end of log toward you when sawing.. also you need to speed up your feed rate (push faster) and you won't have saw marks..
Please get a set of turn over forks for that backhoe. I love you guys and a set of forks would save you so much time now and especially in the near distant future. Keep up the good work.
Really love youre adventure! Watched loads of youre vids and now every time checking if u have a post! Its especially nice u do it youre way! In my eyes thats the only good way 👍🏼 Love from the Netherlands
If you plant to keep poultry, save the sawdust and chips for bedding; poultry bedding or straight off the mill, you can use them in garden paths, as mulch or in hugelkultur. They contain minerals and carbon that will build and enrich your soil.
I use to restore antique trunks, please always sand with the grain of the wood, when you put the finish on the grain pops and you will see the flaws. Alissa I love wood also I can totally relate.
not trying to nit pick, your probably well and truly done this task but when your shifting heavy loads like that and someone is dogging the load, its a good idea to stand well clear of the load by using a tail tied to the end. then you steer with the tail a good few feet away from the load. If your standing virtually under it, and moving in the same direction and something happens like you hit a pot hole or a link breaks, the shock loading of the weight you are carrying can both snap the chain and tip whatever your using to lift it over. The shock loading factor is multiples higher than the weight of what you are carrying, and that multiplies the further you boom out with your bucket. You've done a great job on the houes so far.
You have stated the answer to your problem with the saw several times. Most likely your soil under the saw is moving (shifting over time) under weight of the logs and equipment. The ends of the sawmill carry all the weight and the leveling stones are being slowly pushed in the ground. A suggestion is to pack down the area of the sawmill. Not only where the mill sets, but the area around where you drive the backhoe next to the sawmill. Drive the tractor over it until there is no tire tracks. Get 8-10 inches of your rubble you were going to haul off and spread it over the area next to the saw mill.Pack it down too. Then move the sawmill over to the packed area. Pack down that area where the saw was setting. Then move the sawmill back next to the log pile on on the leveling stones and the new stable ground. Nice to see that your safety has improved by going back to the chains and not using the yellow jaws of death. Get your Helper a rope to position a dangling log. No direct contact with the log. Have fun. It is nice to have family projects this large that you both believe in.
Hey Jesse, relax. Part of the charm of rough hewn logging is its variation. 1/8" inch difference over 8 feet is insignificant. Chances are that you will lose that much as the wood dries out over time.
Alyssa! You scared me when you lost your balance on the mill. Man!! Jesse seems really happy after measuring in the garage...lolol Excited, every episode.
Holy cow batman, is that a coat you have on??? Georgia has been seeing daily highs of near 90 for the past 2 weeks and has only had 1 cool spell of highs dipping down into the upper 70's.
While it's not really recommended to use a backhoe in that manner, yes it can be done; However it would be much safer using straps instead of chains and using the bucket instead of the hoe. The hoe is not designed for that type of load whereas the bucket is made to lift. Always keep clear of the logs while moving them as much as you can anyways, and try to have a escape plan to get out of the area fast if something goes bad. Never put yourself in a area where you have no way out, machines and logs don't have feelings and can change if not end your life in a fraction of a second. After working on heavy equipment at a landfill for 10 years I have seen a fair share of failures and even ended up in the E.R. myself once. I would like to see both of you not only build your house but to enjoy it for many years to come. Safety is no accident !!!!
Hey Alyssa, great save on that controlled fall with five gallons of water in your hands. Very athletic and graceful.
You two are some of the luckiest people alive, you've found each other, you're building your own house in a beautiful place and you've not had any accidents
I like the clean 'city ' look. There is so much beauty in this project: the project itself, the setting and the people.
Just watched this. I've been sawing on my Woodmizer for almost 20 years and I find it easiest to saw with the small end of the log facing the sawyer. Starting at the small end allows for more wiggle room because you're always working towards a diameter that gets larger rather than smaller. That way you give yourself the best chance to get what you want out of the log. When I have the logs delivered I always have the driver place the logs small end towards the head of the saw so I'm not wasting time flipping logs around. I've sawn a lot of timbers for timber frames and it's always critical that the 2nd face is always sawn perfectly square to the first face so you'll end up with a square timber, otherwise you'll end up with a parallelogram which no timber framer wants to deal with. It's great that you both have the ambition and willingness to learn and make mistakes building your own house. Enjoy the process!
I think this is the best episode so far. Wood machining is so satisfying you will get it dialed in.
Superb! You guys took a TREE...and made a beautiful and precise structural building component from it that will last as long as the house stands. And it will be a constant and visible reminder to you of the knowledge, determination and skills you acquired along the way.
Awesome video. You folks are better entertainment than anything else on TH-cam.
I have alot of respect for you guys milling your own lumber. I tip my hat to you both.
You guys have come a long way so far! Be proud and enjoy this next phase! I'm happy to be able to follow your progress - thank you!
Jesse, you should start cuts on the small end first to maximize what you get out of the log. also adjust log on opposite end for vertical height based on centers of the log. So you can jack up or lift the far end away from your starting cut. so centers are level and cut will be on the correct plane from the center. More material will come off the end of the cut which is what you want.
Keep up the good work, Very encouraging and inspirational, Good or bad right or wrong is not important Working as a team Learning and sharing your journey is a blessing to watch. May God Bless your efforts and bring you and the Family Great joy for many years to come.
"Bugaboo, get up and do something with your life." Haha!!!!
I love Bugaboo!!
Stay safe. Dust masks might be a good idea?
Don't worry about planing or sanding. The saw cuts smooth enough and with the heart included in the post it will develop a large crack on the surface when it dries anyway.
Be aware that the log will flex when a cut is made due to internal stresses in the log. In general the sap wood is in compression and the heart wood is in tension. When you make a cut and remove the sap wood as a slab, the remaining log will likely flex and not be straight.
You want the center of the log to be parallel to the bed of the saw, leave the thick end fixed and raise the thin end till both ends are the same height from the saw bed. (Level is not what counts, parallel to the bed is what counts).
It's exciting to see your progress on the house.Love how you two work together and it is a big help to have another person to help.It seems i 've always worked alone and yes you have to be creative.Can't wait till the timber frame starts to go up.
I don't know if you're going to paint these posts, or stain them ,but oh my goodness what a beautiful woodgrain. Love your videos
Love watching your progress! We are building a small dog kennel on our homestead and we gained a lot of knowledge from all of your foundation preparation and your concrete work and pour. Thanks!
Bugaboo would have to be the coolest cat on TH-cam.
Trees twist as they grow due to correlis effect so you will never align the grain at each end. You need to clear out your log deck and put two logs at right angles to your mill deck. All the logs then get stacked on these two logs, no more lifting logs up onto the mill. Simply roll them onto your mill. Loving the videos all the way in New Zealand
That wood is gorgeous.
With all of the milling that you are doing, I suggest collecting as much of the sawdust as possible. It can be made into "pucks" that can be burned for heat.
You two are so awesome. We really enjoy watching the progress.
Jesse - replace at least one of your hooks with an oversized hook. That way when you lift, it will tighten up on the log and the log can not shift/slip.
The equivalent using rope is to make a bowline around the standing part of the rope.
Thanks for sharing. What I liked most about this video is your communication and teamwork. A+++
Really enjoy following you make your dreams become reality! I would suggest that clearing out all equipment etc. that is not used in your current activity will make it less likely that an accident and damage to equipment or injury occurs. Always keeping the job site completely clear for footing as well as equipment swing space pays off.
the sawdust is awesome for gardening, and after you use the firewood you can add that Ashes to your garden as well or you can use them to make soap
I enjoy watching your honest process. I've had a little experience working on timber frames and lots of experience moving heavy stuff. I get nervous when I see your wife handling the timber directly when you're moving the logs with your backhoe. Can you please use a tag line (rope connected to one end) to maneuver the logs when hanging from the bucket. A tag line allows one to work outside of the danger area and away from pinch points. I would hate to see a crushing accident. Great job so far! Lastly, did you prime the steel at the tops of the last two vertical garage posts? You showed it on the first, but not the last couple. It would be nice to see you prime the entire steel beam, because it will continue to rust even when out of the weather.
Love your videos, watch u every day and look forward to seeing u on your house build, love watching u work together with your wife, I am aware of how much stress is involved in doing what u do , alisa is awsome person. It's nice to see a husband values the abilities of his wife.
I have done a lot of turning logs into timber over the years.
The easy way for you is make one 1/2 inch shim and shims in one inch increments up to about 5 or 6 inchs.
measure from saw mill frame to center of log on thick end
Ditto on thin end.
Shim the difference on thin end
secure log and cut
Guys I have to say I never watched a series of video like you are doing. Man the work in filming and editing on top of the work on the house built. My word is AMAZING !!!!. Keep it up, you are both doing great team work !!!!!!!! ♥
Just a tip because this is something I do know about. In the long run you will be so much happier if you go head like your doing and plane and then sand because when it's left rough, even when you seal it it will get full of diet and grime and dust over the years. The smooth with a nice tung oil is so pleasing. Anyway, you guys are great! Keep up the great work and thanks so much for all the hard work on your videos also!!
Seems like that advice only applies to cured and dried lumber!
great recovery on the water can trip you are one gutsy woman hang in there
You need to line up the middle of the log at each end. Take the diameter at each end and then put a wedge under the small end that is the difference divided by 2. This will make the center at each end line up on the same horizontal plane.
I'm fortunate to have rolling and adjustable toe boards on my woodmizer. However even without them I always put the smaller diameter end of the logs at the sawmill carriage end. This allows you to take your measurements from the sawmill bed . Using a short stick as a tool I lift that end so the log is level and put a wedge underneath to secure it there. As you mentioned in the video its essential to have the center of the log level from end to end. Starting the blade at the smaller end gives you a better picture of what the log will yield. Your grappler hook attachment will allow you lift and spin a log to place it on the mill bed. Its a lot of messing around but that tip alone saves you walking back and forth several times to check the alignment. Cheers
Great job guys! I hope im not reapeating a previous comment but on my sawmill i always put the small end towards the head of the mill. It works for me because I don't have to make as many cuts to get where i want to be. I also agree with a past comment about pouring a slab. You will be very happy you made the investment😀 trust me lol. It gives you a good reference to measure the pith elevation on both ends and gives you something flat and sturdy to jack up the end you need to raise.you guys are doing great keep up the good work
For banana-shaped logs, I turn the hump up first and slice enough off so that when I turn the hump down, it sits solid on the mill. Then I shave the turned up ends off.
I'm excited that you guys are starting the framing! :)
Please cover your building materials and supplies, even if it doesn't rain, the moisture in the night will cause the wood to swell while its surface would sink in pressure points, causing symmetry problems later on.
I really like the process and product y'all are doing....keep up the awesomeness...
I'm scratching my head and asking myself "How and when did your channel become so addictive? "
I love natural wood...gorgeous.
I'm enjoying the journey. It looks like a lot of work!
Alyssa - I hope you learned that you always need and exit route when dealing with heavy items, especially over your head.
Very much enjoying your exploits in house building. Glad to see you are doing everything you can to keep your standards up. Up where we are on the wet coast, we had 30 red cedars milled up and stored most of them including the waned pieces. All the good stuff went into exterior trim etc., and from the other stuff I have put in over 1000' of deer fencing. and have almost run out. Throw away nothing, you will use it all, even if it is fire starter. The same goes for the Douglas fir. Used the best lumber for columns (cedar) and the best fir for treads and trim etc.
Find center on both ens. Use a scribe and strigb to find center level throughout the length of the log. Raise the smaller end until it is level with the cutting plane of the mill.
I wanted to see the Claw, than I remembered this was videoed before. Looking good!
I remember from wood shop, only sand with the grain wood, # 2 when debarking a log, take a shovel, and run it up the log, from fouch-o-matic off grid, the curve of the log will all most match of shovel.
Linseed oil is the best stuff, it keeps the natural wood look and protects it
You guys are definitely learning as you go.
Going to be interesting when the "Wood Frame" guys show up. Measure with a micrometer, level with a laser, cut with an axe !!!
Just an FYI, when you're moving heavy stuff with equipment and aren't completely confident with the weight carry it in as close as you can and low as possible, if you do end up lifting wheels they can only go as far as your material is from the ground at most.
And you wondered if buying the backhoe was a good idea. It makes moving logs so much easier. Great buy.
If you ever get a chance, can you folks do a video about your workflow with your editing software? Please and thanks!
It is easier to mill your logs if you place the small end toward the mill.
Happy for you guys. Hard work starting to show off. Beautiful wood.
One way to get the pith level is to raise the blade above the log and measure down from it to the center of the log on both ends
Beautiful wood!!!
You two are awesome love your straight forward honest style. I get a lot of motivation from your channel.
You got that fancy Bosch level, tack a stake on each end, mark 12 (or whatever works, as long as it’s the same on each end. Level the small end to the big end and the center cuts will be parallel/as straight as possible.
keep the 20 minute + videos coming !!!!!
Just binged watched all the way from the start of the lite forming. Was a real threat to follow along! daily 30min videos is really hard to do if you want it to be more than time lapses. Kepp it up
Hooray ! Good fortune to you all and all the students and teachers.
Haha "It's like lifting water jugs all over... oh crap!"
Nice save.
Thanks for sharing with us...love your videos. Can't wait for more
Hi! Great video guys, you really pushing out the human limits, I really enjoy viewing it. My father has a swing-blade sawmill we built 2 years ago. Positioning the log is basically the same I think. You don't have to use laser... just complicating the procedure. We always look for the crown in the log. Make sure the crown is always sideways as it would lie on the desk. Measure the butt diameter and the top diameter without the bark. Subtract the two numbers and divide it by two. Cut a piece of lumber to that thickness and place it under the top end. Wedge out the middle properly to avoid deflection. Secure the 3 supports with detachable locking pins beneath, staved deeply in the bark. From this starting position I use to do 1-2 horizontal cuts and same vertical cuts on the crowned side. The goal here is to reach at least 2/3 of the log length with that cut. After that we repositioning the log on the crowned side, now it's a flat surface except the ends and than the cutting party begins. Definitely needs some wedging 1/8 - 1/4 here and there, that's usual. This precision is fairly acceptable at over 12 ft logs. Hope it is useful! Good job guys! Keep it goin'!
Water tube level! Its cheep, easy, accurate, and it works over long distances! And if you put a 5gal bucket in the middle of the tube ends you can increase your distance and verticality, also with the bucket added you can more level points (tube ends).
Water levels are the most under-appreciated and under-used tool in the arsenal. I used one to set the grade on my driveway, and was able to maintain the 1/8 inch per foot slope over the 100 foot length.
Move the saw over top log with out running. Dry run. Mark the center with plumb bob out the blade to center log and sides and mark both ends.
great job organizing everything guys
YAY!! Sub since the hotub. Viewer since the septic tank. Been waiting for this since I moved to Colorado. I know Jesse dosn't read these comments, but I've been rooting for you both since the beginning. I get it all. Now (2 weeks ago) it's getting real. The haters will hate. Push on anyway. Woop Woop!!
Great to see the mill running. And great job on planing. Greetings from Andreas on Off Grid Sweden
A suggestion- if any of those logs are cedar and you have some extra, line the inside of a closet with it. You can store your winter/summer clothes there and not about moths or whatever
when you set the large end use the mill gauge to get a center measurement then take mill to other end and set back to same reading and position log to center of blade lock in place check max finish cut small end . cut . tip 90 second set up again . cut .
I would pick 2 really nice logs, and only put small squares (pegs) at the top and the bottom to attache to the brackets, leaving the rest of the entire length of the log with the bark on it. That would be a really cool look in the lower level. If the bark look isn't your thing, the bark could be peeled off leaving a round post with all it's character.
Sounds like Alyssa is getting the bug, the beauty of the wood is what makes it worth it. Wait till later when you start picking out certain pieces because of the look of the grain and saving them for special projects.
ray nall got that bug in high school wood shop. Haven't shook it since
so did I, still amazes me sometimes when you see some different kinds of wood.
The beams will be nice ,the beam grane looks good . Good job an a good viedo!
if the beam is rocking in the middle your saw bed is not straight. Try to sight down it and you should see the bend in the track.
I have sawn timber frame timbers on a lt15. To center heart of log we built 2 tee shaped scales. 2x4 lays across bed rails then 2x4 goes up in center with an inch scale on it, 0 to 24 inches. Set one at each end of log on rails then leveled them to match scale on each end. Easy fast and made from scraps. No level or strings needed.
You will do it! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Jessie.. always have the small end of log toward you when sawing.. also you need to speed up your feed rate (push faster) and you won't have saw marks..
Get a set of forks that attach to the front bucket. Makes moving logs and lumber so much easier.
Please get a set of turn over forks for that backhoe. I love you guys and a set of forks would save you so much time now and especially in the near distant future. Keep up the good work.
Just what I was thinking, it'd so much easier with flip. front forks.
Really love youre adventure! Watched loads of youre vids and now every time checking if u have a post!
Its especially nice u do it youre way! In my eyes thats the only good way 👍🏼
Love from the Netherlands
Beautiful cut! That’s a nice looking log.
Its exciting that you guys are starting the milling. keep up the good work.
start the sawing from the small end of the log...that's what we do...love your videos..
If you plant to keep poultry, save the sawdust and chips for bedding; poultry bedding or straight off the mill, you can use them in garden paths, as mulch or in hugelkultur. They contain minerals and carbon that will build and enrich your soil.
If you paint those beams the wood god's will take your deserts away from you for life.
I use to restore antique trunks, please always sand with the grain of the wood, when you put the finish on the grain pops and you will see the flaws. Alissa I love wood also I can totally relate.
I appreciate the recognition on the Lone Ranger, good sir!! Owner/operator of a landscaping business
we put a little pinesaw in our water to keep the blade clean from pitch.
not trying to nit pick, your probably well and truly done this task but when your shifting heavy loads like that and someone is dogging the load, its a good idea to stand well clear of the load by using a tail tied to the end. then you steer with the tail a good few feet away from the load. If your standing virtually under it, and moving in the same direction and something happens like you hit a pot hole or a link breaks, the shock loading of the weight you are carrying can both snap the chain and tip whatever your using to lift it over. The shock loading factor is multiples higher than the weight of what you are carrying, and that multiplies the further you boom out with your bucket. You've done a great job on the houes so far.
You have stated the answer to your problem with the saw several times. Most likely your soil under the saw is moving (shifting over time) under weight of the logs and equipment. The ends of the sawmill carry all the weight and the leveling stones are being slowly pushed in the ground. A suggestion is to pack down the area of the sawmill. Not only where the mill sets, but the area around where you drive the backhoe next to the sawmill. Drive the tractor over it until there is no tire tracks. Get 8-10 inches of your rubble you were going to haul off and spread it over the area next to the saw mill.Pack it down too. Then move the sawmill over to the packed area. Pack down that area where the saw was setting. Then move the sawmill back next to the log pile on on the leveling stones and the new stable ground. Nice to see that your safety has improved by going back to the chains and not using the yellow jaws of death. Get your Helper a rope to position a dangling log. No direct contact with the log. Have fun. It is nice to have family projects this large that you both believe in.
Hey Jesse, relax. Part of the charm of rough hewn logging is its variation. 1/8" inch difference over 8 feet is insignificant. Chances are that you will lose that much as the wood dries out over time.
love it! asks for advice and comments on two week old material... hes already LONG past this. Ha! =0)
Tobin Belisle he will see the comments before milling the house part...these were just for the garage.
Alyssa! You scared me when you lost your balance on the mill. Man!!
Jesse seems really happy after measuring in the garage...lolol
Excited, every episode.
Holy cow batman, is that a coat you have on??? Georgia has been seeing daily highs of near 90 for the past 2 weeks and has only had 1 cool spell of highs dipping down into the upper 70's.
where I live I've seen logs used as post. they were cut and cured to limit shrinking. I would use steel post and the box them for that wood look.
Level your mill bed with string lines....I know you guys can do that!
String lines?!? That's so 2005! They have that fancy dancy expensive laser! We don't need no stinking string! Note: this was sarcastic...
Right on! Stoked for you guys!
While it's not really recommended to use a backhoe in that manner, yes it can be done; However it would be much safer using straps instead of chains and using the bucket instead of the hoe. The hoe is not designed for that type of load whereas the bucket is made to lift. Always keep clear of the logs while moving them as much as you can anyways, and try to have a escape plan to get out of the area fast if something goes bad. Never put yourself in a area where you have no way out, machines and logs don't have feelings and can change if not end your life in a fraction of a second. After working on heavy equipment at a landfill for 10 years I have seen a fair share of failures and even ended up in the E.R. myself once. I would like to see both of you not only build your house but to enjoy it for many years to come. Safety is no accident !!!!