How To: change a Toyota pickup alternator
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- A complicated task, just became simpler. So often, I hear from people about being intimidated by how the alternator was mounted. People "scared", if you will, to take so much apart to change an alternator. Today, we sent the problems packing. We did not show the unit actually being pulled from the truck, or the new one being put in. Mainly in part, because the unit put up a fight and there was too much editing (swearing). But, we did describe it in full detail. The actual procedure preceding removal, and post-install, covers all the important information. The actual removal and install, can be handled without problems. The procedure before, and following, will allow the unit to be removed, replaced, and operational. A little lesser known fact... Most of the procedure was done using my left hand only. I am right handed, and that hand was operating the camera.
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This video takes me back to summer 1993 when I was a broke college student driving an '83 Toyota SR5 pickup with a 22R 4-cylinder engine. The alternator gave up the ghost and I limped the truck back to my girlfriend's parent's house. A few years earlier I'd changed the alternator on a '73 Ford F-250, which literally took about 20 minutes, so I figured I'd be done in a couple hours. I had no jackstands, just me rolling around on a concrete driveway and doing what I could with the few meager tools I had at-hand. It took me almost 1 full day to get it disconnected and out. I still don't know how I finally managed to extract it. I remember it was hell trying to get that bottom bolt out and when I did, there was something blocking it from coming out from the bottom, but somehow, someway I managed to squeeze it down through and pull it out.
Then I started putting the new one in, which was only slightly less hellish and took most of the following day. Got it all bolted up and then went to put the electrical connector on and, no joke, the plug did not match. I was a dumb kid and I didn't compare the two parts, I just assumed the guy at the auto parts store gave me the right one. So then I had to take the new one out and, since I had run out of time and needed the car desperately to get to work and school, I had to have it towed and a mechanic do it and had to borrow money to get it done. To add to my failure, the auto parts shop would not refund my purchase because it was now "used". This was one of the most miserable and humbling weekends of my life and scared me away from auto repair for 10 years.
Icing on the cake was the new alternator the mechanic put in failed about a year later, out of warranty. I had the truck towed to a Toyota dealership and instructed them to put in the finest alternator they had. The truck gave me no more problems for the remaining 5 years I drove it.
Can confirm, the bottom removal method is the way to go. Other videos on TH-cam showed a topside removal, but my truck is equipped with EFI and Power Steering, and there was just too much stuff in the way. Removing the bottom radiator hose made removal and install a breeze, especially with the vehicle height of the 4x4 truck.
ty very helpful . Next time try removing cooling fan, radiator shroud , water pump pulley and sneak alternator across radiator above crank pulley and below water pump no need to drain cooling system .btw you gave me the idea from watching camera angle it look like it would fit and it did keep up the great work and great videos
I mentioned that before, to someone else. But, as mine has a flex fan, it no longer uses the studs. So, it's actually a bigger headache to get the spacer, pulley, and water pump flange to line up so I can start the bolts, than it is to drain the coolant by the FSM. Plus, I just don't like getting things that close to the fins. Radiators are quite expensive these days.
YEP, actually, on a 87 yota pickup with auto tranny and pwr str, this works, only have to remove the bottem half of shroud btw.
Thank you I appreciate your hands on prior to me trying it myself. I do have a question, but my earlier model Toyota pick up needed the orange Toyota antifreeze coolant and I run that now in my 93 I guess my question is does the orange really make the water pump and internal water components last longer?
He's not changing the alternator....he's changing the anti freeze
@shingleful Well, if it's an advance auto parts alternator, you may get the chance to implement a few tricks sooner than you think. Ever since I bought one of their alternators, I end up changing it once a year. Kind of nice tho. Gets new coolant, hoses, clamps, and belts quite frequent.
Thanks for posting this video, I appreciate it. Is this essentially the same install on a 1994 22re toyota 4x4? My battery kept dying, so I bought a new one and a few months later the new battery died, so I'm guessing my alternator is kaput.
Yes. The alternators are of the same design, and use the same size hardware. So, the sizes I listed will still apply. The only difference, is the shape of the plug on the rear of the alternator. It still has the same style release. Keep in mind, that when it comes to refilling the cooling system, you either have to use a funnel or elevate the front in order to get all the air out. If yours still has the skid plate installed, you'll have to remove it to gain access to the bottom of the engine.
Indeed, I do have a skid plate. Thanks again.
No problem. Be careful when removing the bolts for the skid plate. Be sure to soak them with penetrant, well beforehand, or they can break.
This helped me. I wasn't sure how to get the Alternator out. But, this confirmed my suspicion of removing the bottom radiator hose. I only hope that when replacing the radiator hose I don't goof it up. Usually, when tampering with other components, that's when other systems start to fail. Poor design for a pickup truck.
@allen84745 What kind of problems? If it's constantly cooking the alternator, check the connector on the driver side fender, the connection at the alternator, and your cables/battery. One problem that is a constant, is the main power junction feed. It's the wire going from the positive side, to the under hood junction. That gets stressed by an unsecure battery. That wire will tell the alternator how much voltage the interior receives as well. A bad read, results in overcharging.
I need to drain and replace my coolant, 1990 2wd 4cyl 22re efi single cab.. but I was wondering (there is only water in it now) aren't u supposed to use red antfreeze? Also how many gallons will it take to refill. My engine/radiator?
@waltermarines89 If you take note of the pivot mount, there is a sliding bushing in there. This gets filled with rust, corrosion, dirt, etc. If you have a pry bar, you can push the bushing back out. The bushing pushes against the alternator, as you tighten the bolt, preventing it from being loose. You push this out, and the new one drops right in. It works the best, by prying the old one forward as you remove it. That will reset the bushing. It took me a grand total of 2 hours 45 minutes.
@yookang lee I'm not too sure on your model, as it isn't available here in the United states. However, on the 22re there is a bushing in the lower bracket, that gets pushed in when the bolt is tightened. Try taking a pry bar, and gently push it back out. That may help.
Im here because i am trying to avoid removing my bottom radiator hose. I have had a squeeking belt/pulley for a few days now and upon further investigation iv found that my pulleys are all good but my alternator belt was too loose so the belt was slipping causing the squeek. Wellll being the responsible 28 year old adult that i am and tired of driving a truck that squeeks I got the pry bar to tighten my belt. With the top alternator bolt loose using the pry bar i pulled the alternator away from the block getting the slack out. Everything was great and dandy. (Im still enjoying working on my truck at this point) then while holding the pry bar keeping the tension on the belt i began to tighten the top alternator bolt using a SIX INCH 12mm wrench. Guess what! I broke the bolt off inside the alternator threads. I must be superman apparently. Very frustrating having to try and get this snapped off bolt out of the threads. Having vomited all this out, very nice video! I'm sad I have too drain the radiotor but now I know.
Thanks. But the bolts I'm talking about are the ones that hold the alternator bracket to the engine block.
Hi everyone. Thanks for the video. My pick up alternator keep coming loose and I make it tight but comes loose again. I have a feeling that one bolt from the bracket that fastened to the engine block is striped because thats where the shit happens every time. Do I need to get the striped hole sorted out only or is there a way i can modify the bracket as well to hold from more than 2 bolts.?
Yes, the top bolt can strip, as the alternator is just aluminum. If you overtighten it, you can destroy the threads. When you tighten the top bolt, you have to tighten down the bottom as well. That one has a nut on the back, and will keep it from coming loose. It won't allow the alternator to move, if it's tight enough. Not even with the top bolt completely removed. However, if you get a longer bolt (use the old top bolt for comparison), you can pick up a nut. Just take the old top bolt into a hardware store, and get one about an inch longer. Just simply put a nut on the back side, and tighten it down. It shouldn't come loose anymore.
Hi gentleman. My pick up shows a battery warning light on the desh after i fixed a loose alternator. It's flashes if I'm on low revs and stop when driving. Does this mean something is wrong with my alternator. The battery is new.
Yes. Sounds like either the regulator, or brushes, are going out. The light will go off at higher revs, because the alternator is spinning faster. At higher RPM, it produces more energy. The way this is counteracted, is the regulator. It regulates the output, so it stays consistent throughout the RPM band. It sounds like it may be regulating it back too far at idle, or one of the brushes is burned out. The brushes are the contact points on the stator. If one is bad, it's only producing power half a cycle. Which would cause the light to flash, as you mentioned. Both these parts, are internal on a Toyota alternator. The easiest way to fix it, is to replace it.
+wandile ngcobo you might of got a bad alt......sounds that way
your idle may be set to low, or the switch that atenuates the idle might not be connected, thus low idel. if it goes out whuile reving up, its probably set to low or the idle advance is prob not working, if it even has one at all, if the alt is showing good, this might be your culprit
Hey FTORC1! Have you made a video on changing out the time chain on yota?? Please let me know! Thanks!
@rickykintzley The newer ones, you are. Like 2007+. However, on the older ones, you can use which ever you prefer. As long as you completely flush the system of any remaining old coolant. If I recall, the 22re without ac (not in 4runner with rear heat), takes a total of about 2.5-3 gallons. With ac, it will be more.
@22reTOYOTA I'm surprised they said it was a "direct fit" alternator. I never saw a 165 amp direct fit. The only ones I've seen that were "direct fit", were the 90amp, 110amp, and the 135amp tow motor alternator. I know the 130amp and 160amp from NWOR require modification. I will eventually install either a 110amp from NWOR, or a 135amp Toyota forklift alternator.
Thanks for the video. it helped tremendously.
@tenggyteng It does have a bad alternator. However, the lack if change when connected to another, tells me there's a bad cable as well
Dude that engine sounded horrible, sounds like the timing chain guides are shot.
@dasaabguy Yes, the alternator is grounded to the block. Via both the mount, and a secondary ground wire in the plug in Toyotas
I took my alternator out earlier this summer wish i knew about the valve to drain the antifreeze tho. would have been usefull
Thanks for the great video. I have 2002 hilux 2.7l petrol. I have removed the alternator but I have trouble fitting the new one onto the bracket. It is a really tight fit. Any helpful tips? Thanks
Why do you have to drai the radiator to remove the alternator?
@steveschaedel I've attempted to drop mine out, without removing the hose. I heard, in some circumstances, it is possible. Mine, the alternator just lays on the hose. By the book, this was done to the letter. 3 belts? A/c equipped?
@crd8t Also, it depends on whether the vehicle has power steering. Those with, there really is no way to remove it from above, without making a large hole in the inner fender. Note, this is on a 22re equipped, mid-80's, ifs 4wd
OMG look at all these thankless idiots... first of all just wanted to say thank you for putting the work into making me a FREE instructional video on something I figured I could do on my own... but couldn't because I own a 1985 sr5 and have NEVER been so frustrated just changing alternator. anyways... I removed the old alternator successfully (mostly thanks to your video) and now the new one is in the area it needs to be it... but the issue now is I can't for the life of me get the alternator to fit into the mounting bracket... I'm bloody... I cussed a bunch... is it normally such a tight fit? I mean the old one popped right out. I double checked and I have the correct alternator. is there a trick to getting it in? thanks again for your help in the first place!
First, thank you for the appreciation. I would be more than happy to help. Yes, they can put up quite a fight. If you look at the lower bracket, there should be a small brass bushing in the front hole if I recall. It may be the rear, but I'm pretty sure it was the front. Sometimes, that bushing gets pushed inward a bit, due to slight variations in the aluminum casting of the alternator housing. Just make sure that's pushed back outward. That could be what is holding up progress. If it's out, it may just be a bad casting on the new alternator. In which case, you may have to grind it a hair. That's one of the issues with these remanufactured and reproduced alternators. Also, just to be sure, I do know they offered 2 different alternators in 85. One was internally regulated, and the other was an externally regulated IC type alternator. The internally regulated will not fit in the IC type bracket without modifying the housing slightly. The lower pivot is a little thicker on the internally regulated housing. A little bit of grinding on the rear of that pivot, and it should slide right in. Which could have been done by a previous owner, as the IC type was extremely unreliable. Best of luck, as that's why I never showed the reinstallation. The footage was unusable, due to the entire swear vocabulary being used rather than cognitive thought.
he named my exact same problem on a 12-1985 model, i'll move the brass bushing and grind a hair and tell how it worked for me...
The Truth typically, that's all I ever have to do. Just a quick push with a pry bar, and that bushing moves. Very rarely do I have to grind the housing.
yep, thats what i do, short of someone prying and hammer it out of round, it generally pushes pretty easy, more or less.
@tryandlike Option "B" to removing the lower hose, on power steering models. You can remove the tensioner pulley, power steering pump, and airbox or distributor. Or, "C", remove the radiator.
@crd8t I have tried taking it out from above. The correct way, according to the service manual, is from below. The older, ic type, can be removed from above
@1tonyota the 4wd model is laid out the same as the 2wd. Only, you don't need a jack, and there's an axle in the way. Nice name btw
@jason127x99 Yeah, the location is horrible. No one sells a lifetime high amperage, unless you get one for an MR2 or Supra. They have similar mounts, and plugs, but are between 110 and 190 amps. You have to do some research, as to which years and models work. As far as changing the timing set, I will be doing such a job soon on a friend's 92. As soon as he gets the parts. I will be sure to post a How To, when completed. It will also be the dual row conversion from LCE.
Aren't u supposed to use red/pink antifreeze in a toyota pup?
Thank you very much. I'll get a new one.
i just did this to my 81 toyota it takes a lil time but was simple i just dropped it out from the bottom of the truck but i also have 31" tires so i got alot of clearance
There is quite a bit of difference on the 81 pickups. This was more specific to the 84-88 models, as the one used was an 86. The older models used an IC type alternator, had more space under the hood, and were solid axle trucks. Which, kind of gives you an edge. The 84-88 models, especially if they're fuel injected with IFS, had far less room. The one used in the video, was also sitting on 31's at the time, but is set up to run 33-35" tires.
@22reTOYOTA Oh. The ones I've found, are just wiring mods. They also use the same case. We're not real huge into audio, but need a lot of power just the same. Those stadium intensity lights, and winches draw a lot of juice. I have a 90amp in it now, but I could use a little more. The engine bogs with everything on. I'm probably going to bump up to a 135 from a Toyota forklift.
Useless Info! The part I had trouble with was the bottom bolt. Which you chose not to show, because "that was the tough part". No kidding, that's why I started your 7 minute video. But, yeah, swearing was required.
I understand a lot of people have difficulties using tools to remove the bottom bolt, that was displayed in the video. The same one, I even mentioned the size needed. I guess I should have said to grab the bolt, and pull it out. Because, remove, seems a bit too hard to comprehend. Then, there is the issue of removing the alternator from the bracket. The trick is, you have to lift your hand, reach into the compartment, firmly grasp the alternator, and withdraw your hand through the opening shown at the beginning. Hopefully, with the alternator in tow. If not, you may have to recheck the 2 bolts you have to remove, or the 2 plugs you have to disconnect.
Yes, that bottom bolt is the hardest part of this repair. But, that's when you chose to turn the camera off! I already used all my good cuss words by that time, and I was looking to your video on tips to get that bottom bolt out, that's why the comment. No need for being dismissive.
You put out lots of videos, you probably saw the flaw in not including how you managed that last bolt. That info would have been the most important.
Ciao
Bob G I didn't have a problem removing the bottom bolt. Never have. There was no secret, no tip, and no special way to do it. I simply loosened it up, and took it out. Where I had been cussing, was physically pulling out the alternator, and putting the new one in its place. There is no good way to do that, without smashing knuckles. All because of the brass bushing, that bottom bolt pushes into the alternator. Kind of need 2 hands at that point. 1 to hold onto the alternator, another to use the pry bar.
Bob G plus, I didn't just decide to omit that part. As you are well aware of by this point, there is a nut on the back of that bolt. I did disclose that, in the video. Kind of hard to hold a camera, hold a wrench on the nut, and loosen the bolt with a ratchet. Only have 2 hands. So, I didn't just say, "well, this looks like a good time to turn off the camera. Let them figure it out.". I was forced, so I can free up my other hand. Best I could do at that point, was to show you where it was, and tell you what size it was. At least I did that, so you didn't have to hunt for tools. But, there just was no good way of doing it any different at that time. But, since we are on the subject. I have gotten different camera equipment since this video was made, nearly 5 years ago. The very same truck, needs another alternator. I had planned on updating some of the vids, since I now have proper equipment. Such as the headgear and jaws for gopro, and a few hero 3's. So, I won't NEED to hold the camera.
@tryandlike I outined this in the video. You have to remove the lower hose, to get the alternator out. Specifically in the models with power steering.
My chevy takes me 30 mins from start to finish. I love my yota but it was alot harder to do. I think thats a shitty place for a alternator to be located. went and got the AutoBone special. Any body know if any one offers a lifetime warr on the high amp altrnators?? The Zone doesn`t offer a high out put. :(
I was wondering if to press the clip or lift the clip on the back of the alternator to remove connection because mine would not budge. This is the only video that shows that. Everyone else is to excited over disconnecting the neg cable....duh. Also my alternator could not be removed from the top and so I will try this bottom method. I saved the antifreeze for the dogs
I try to provide as much info as possible. Like sizes, etc. This method is actually as per the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Which is the way just about any dealer or service facility will do it. Models without power steering, you can take it out the top. I noticed how often people just glaze over all the really important stuff. Like squeeze or pry the clip. Meanwhile, there are people who get hung up on how to grasp it, and take it out the hole. It just comes out. Lol.
Thanks FTORC1! Exactly what I needed.
Thank you
Once again. This was performed on a 22re, not the carburated 22r. Also, model was equipped with power steering. The procedure was done, verbatim, according to the factory service manual. In other words, since you obviously have a difficult time understanding, the way TOYOTA recommends doing it, and teaches their techs to do it.
I did the research and watched this video a few times before attempting the work on my sons 87 4runner. After getting out there and really looking at it I tried to figure out why anyone would want to try to take it from above ??? I dropped it out the bottom with no probloems - didnt even have to pull the radiator hose. Literally took my an hour - and that included replacing all 3 belts. If you read this do NOT take it out through the top, just drop it out the bottom.
Hey bud,
Since you have the video up, please do me a favor and stress the importance of the push clip going into the alternator. Ended up breaking mine 3 years ago and the damn thing kept vibrating out of the plug causing power loss and dead batteries. Easy to break those.
It's not a bad idea to change the antifreeze, while you're in there. A person shouldn't need a visual, of how to pull/push it through the hole. Just what to remove, what sizes, and why.
You need to use the red Asian vehicle coolant. The green stuff is corrosive in Japanese cars
That is true of the newer vehicles. The one in the video is in excess of 30 years old. It has had the green its entire life. Because that's all there was. And it has no corrosion that is more than any other vehicle of its age. At this juncture, it's a bad idea to change to the newer coolant. They are chemically incompatible
I took mine out from the top the first time... It was he'll... It has power steering... I'm trying to do it again 20 years later and I don't know how the he'll I did it the first time. I must be getting too old. I'm sure I didn't take the power steering bracket and distributor loose the first time. If my back will just hold up I will find that one and only position that allows it to come up and out.
No view of actually pulling the alternator out from the bottom of the engine compartment... really?!?
not a bad video but draining the radiator and pulling the bottom hose is not necessary at all there is plenty of room to remove and install in about 10 min from the top of the motor
Kirby, I would like to know where you get your information. Because only an idiot would assume I had changed my head gasket. Apparently, the only thing you gathered from the video, that you had to watch because you know nothing about it and now try to criticize about what you don't know how to do, is that I apparently changed my head gasket. As a matter of fact, I had NOT. I don't know where you gained that information, or the time frame as such. I had changed the thermostat at some time before then. At the point when this video was made, 4 years ago, the head gasket was original. In fact, at this point in time, that particular gasket is still original. What was actually said, because you obviously only heard what you wanted, is that "as you have to drain the antifreeze, it is a good time to know what kind of condition the head gasket is in". This model, with this engine, with these options, draining the radiator is REQUIRED. Just because that is not what YOU want to do, doesn't make it any less correct. If you want to do this without removing the lower hose, here are your instructions:
Option A:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Disconnect the connections on the back of the alternator
3. Remove the alternator belt
4. Remove the power steering belt
5. Remove the power steering pump (some special tools may be required)
6. Drain the radiator
7. Remove the elbow hose behind the water pump
8. Extract the alternator from above
9. Installation is reverse of removal
Option B:
1. Follow steps 1-3 above
2. Remove cooling fan
3. Remove fan shroud
4. Remove bolts holding radiator in place
5. Move radiator toward passenger side
6. Extract alternator
7. Installation is reverse of removal
Or, you can just take my word for it. The alternator does not fit through any other hole. Keep in mind, this model is equipped with the 22RE, with power steering, 4WD, and fuel injection. This model is also equipped with the internally regulated alternator, not the IC type as found in some of the 85 models, and nearly all of the 84 and older models. As such, the body of the alternator is larger.
Some proper information for you. The valve at the bottom of the radiator is called the petcock. I said open the PETCOCK, not open the cock. That is the correct name. Look it up. The instructions I provided, were as such provided by the FSM (factory service manual). The very same manual that the Toyota technician would use. So, the very same procedure performed by the dealer, verbatim (that's another word, for "word for word"). Don't worry, I will be making another video, demonstrating WHY it has to be done like this, to clarify to people like you, that would rather criticize than to know why.
I find it amusing, that people like you, assume that all vehicles you don't have to take anything off, ever. I've attempted this, without the FSM. After I tried every way to extract it from the vehicle, avoiding removing the lower hose, I was unable to do so. At that point in time, I referenced the FSM. Only to discover, that was the way to do it. Next time, try reading. Since, you wanted to be a jackass, you have been banned. Congratulations, for being this months "douchebag of the month".
WARNING! These blots snap very easily. I had to get a length of All Thread rod to replace it. The Toyota dealer doesn't even stock them.
The alternator bolts do not snap easy, and they are no special bolt. I replaced my top bolt, with an identical one from the hardware store. As for the bottom, it's a through bolt. One of similar length and size, with a couple washers, works just fine. Not special by any means. Just metric.
In fact, I bought both bolts from the hardware store, in metric, for around $2.
@pussytastegood1 just loosen the bolts on the top and bottom of the alt, slide it in, and put the new belt on the crank, water pump, and alt pulleys. Pull alt tight, and tighten bolts
thx for the vid bro
@cycocycoful if you can't figure out how to grab it, pull it out, and stick the new one in, you probably shouldn't try this. Due to the angle, I could not hold the camera, and pull it out, at the same time.
Did you record this with a potato? Jesus
dude I just had a flush done I ain't gonna drain the radiator to change my alternator
I wish you the best of luck. I've heard you can remove it through the top, if you don't have power steering. Or, you can remove your power steering pump, and bleed the system. Or, easier still, be sure to use a clean bucket, as I had, so you can reuse your coolant.
FTORC1
YEP! I totally removed the old one without draining the radiator. hwy the heck does this video have the title of how to change an alternator?????
misleading man.
As mine is an Sr-5 4wd, there is no room to take it out, short of removing the lower hose. I couldn't hold the camera, while removing it. I did outline what needed to be done. I was not aware there were so many people that needed me to demonstrate how to use their hands, and to pull it out. Even after showing what to remove. I also was not aware, so many people don't understand the phrase "installation is reverse of removal". Obviously, this is beyond your understanding. I recommend you take it to a professional
FTORC1 Why would we take it to a professional when that is the primary reason were getting on youtube for this. Your video is useless. I dont need to pay a professional when I can figure it out but we get on youtube to find out how to do it fast and easy and this video is pretty much half of how to do it and not very instructional. But thanks
Joe Martell As stated, installation is reverse removal. If that's still difficult, that is where you need to take it to a professional. Only thing I did not show outside of that, is to reach into the hole, and pull it through the hole. If that is also too difficult to understand, you definitely need to take it to a professional. But, then again, I could have left the camera rolling, while looking at the ground, so you can complain about that. Or, had I had someone to hold the camera, you could have footage of my arm and nothing else to complain about. Take your pick.
This video would be better if we could actually see what you were doing.
Lack of camera equipment or an assistant. I used a hand held camcorder, and was by myself. Needed to turn the camera off to use my other hand. Since this was filmed, my equipment has been updated. There will be updated versions for some of the videos, where vision is impared. This, and rebuild a hub, are the top 2.
This is a radiator not an alternator.
@jdubaters This vehicle requires that you drain the RADIATOR to remove the ALTERNATOR. Next time, pay attention, versus run your mouth
The video was great until 6:13
So you make a video to show how to swap out an alternator, then you actually don't bother to actually show anything about actuallu
You spent more time talking about the fuckin antifreeze
SW(is)M maybe, because you have to deal with draining it, removing the lower hose, and refilling it. If you're such an expert on changing it, why do you need to watch? Half of the job, is just that. After that, you have a plug, a wire, 2 bolts, and a belt.
SW(is)M grab it, and take it out. it wasn't difficult at all. after the hose is out of the way, you take it through that hole. exactly as I said. there was no mystery, magic, or trick. I moved the camera out of the way, reached through where the hose was, and pulled it out with 1 hand. Then, here's the real tricky part. I grabbed the new one, and put it in the exact opposite as how I removed the old.
This video is a waste of my life. What comedy! Everything important to know is left out. Why not just delete it and keep from looking the fool?
A complicated task, just became simpler. So often, I hear from people about being intimidated by how the alternator was mounted. People "scared", if you will, to take so much apart to change an alternator. Today, we sent the problems packing..., It seems you were interested in helping but now are not? Acting like you are a "teacher" and then telling someone to "remove thumb from ass", hardly makes it seem as if you truly know what you are talking about. Not much of a teacher.
@zpip1 if you still don't know how to do this, after I show everything to unbolt/unplug, short of grasping the alternator. Then, you have no business being under a hood. Take it to the local garage, and pay someone who does. People who want to know which way to go, are happy. Those, who are ignorant unless I hold their hand, shouldn't attempt this.
Failure!
You drain the radiator to change an alternator.....dude don't drink or take drugs then make a youtube video. Thumbs down.
In the service manual at the shop, sure enough, it says it was designed to be removed this way. You fogot, these folks beleive in magik or something...the rest of us who dont have majik wands appreiciate your help. BTW, this video helps understand what the service man. says..you know how cryptic they can be sometimes...