I port heads for the 4.0! The supercharger was a waste of time. Mounting twin 53 mm turbos almost underneath the engine below the cats has been the best way so far to add power. 42 LB injectors from the Cobra mustang. A reflash of the ECM to handle more than 5 lb of boost. Ring gap was set 18 thou. The same setup on a 4.0 mustang made over 500 ft lb of torque. I'm not trashing you wear your setup either 🙏
No disrespect taken… I think maybe different set ups for different goals. I just need some reliable torque for pulling my trailer through the mud. I feel like it’s perfect for what I needed… any more power and I’d be destroying my t-case or front end, transmission, burning clutches etc. I want to drive this truck for another 200K miles 👍😄
@@RangerShop1 I understand the power level can be kept very low my project is a 2005 explorer. The only thing you really have to do to keep the transmission from grenading is taking out the cloth filter and putting in a mesh screen. I will say this there's a lot of misinformation. There's a racing team that won pikes peak with the same motor. There's another guy from Jersey who gets his into the mid 12's. I don't know what your hearing is but mine is 3:55 front and rear. 2002 Eddie Bauer block because it has thin piston rings
Thanks very happy with the truck I can actually pull out now and merge onto the freeway with my trailer without wondering if someone will rear end me. 😂
@@RangerShop1 I was looking at the way they ran the Thunderbird setup. Versus this I’m seeing it be hit with a supercharger on. Looks like it would take care of the heat in the hotter climates.
@@RangerShop1 I have the same kit. You will probably want to put water injection on it. Temps can get hot. To the point where it feels like it really negates any boost you are making. Having water injection on my setup really made me feel 1000% better. I notice my air temps run between 60-80F warmer than ambient when fully warmed up and cruising. Boost and sitting idle makes them go even higher, (unless you have water injection, then they drop quick) I also have the metal temperature senor, which may also get a bit heat soaked, and might be making the temps read warmer then they are to, I am not 100% certain on that though.
@@Samophlan I am looking to do something similar since it seems the Moddbox intercooler isn't produced anymore. Which water injection kit did you go with? Do you have a progressive injection that starts at lower PSI or does it only come on at your peak PSI?
Sorry missed your comment! Great advice there… I’ll definitely be looking into this. I just finished towing my trailer 5000 miles though no problem yet. But I want more boost. 😁
Congratulations on the installation of your new MOD BOX. That is a sweet ride you got there. I have always wondered why Ford done the E.G.R. delete on the 4.0 on just the Rangers in 2003 and not anything else with the 4.0.
@@RangerShop1 did you get a engine code when you removed it? also post the link for that intake boot you used up against the throttle body! i love my supercharger but i want to go back to a stock air box like you, way better for the water i get up here in washington and looks much cleaner. nice job!!!
For the catch can I am wondering about which valve cover you are coming from? I think one is supposed to be in and the other out but it seems like they both could spit oil
Can you share some answers for the viewer. 1. What claims does the mfg. make with respect to maintaining OBD II emissions in California and/or is this a Federal certified Ranger. 2. what impact have your changes made to emissions durring open loop and closed loop under load. 3. Does the ECU get modified in any way? 4. Does your truck use wide band a/f, and o2 sensors. 4. How has the truck performed under load and altitude after any long period heat soaks. 5. How significant have the short and long term fuel trims changed, and have you experienced any leaned out detonation under hard accelerations or when the a/f ratio is excessively dense. Much thanks, and great work.
Ok ill try to answer what I can. Some of this would probably be better to reach out to the manufacture. 1) I don't think its legal in California but I'm not sure. With the low boost pulley I think it would pass emissions but I've never tried. No check engine light is on, it doesn't set any codes. 2) I'm not sure, we don't have that testing here. 3) No ECU tune needed on 3.5psi pulley, not sure about the higher psi pulleys. 4) At high altitude around 10000ft it feels like you have no supercharger at all. Seemed almost stock to me. No heat soak, starts right up all time, runs good no over heating. But I installed an electric fan, I have no EGR, and I installed a 170F T-stat. 5) I have an aftermarket wide band AF meter installed no lean misses ever, always 14.7 -14.9. My fuel economy has improved towing my trailer and on the highway. I can set my cruise control and it doesn't even need to shift. I'd recommend reaching out to the manufacture for your other questions. Thanks
@@RangerShop1 Thank you so kindly for your responses. Thought I listened intently, but clueless on mfg contact info. Could you help with that request. Hah! got you on #4 - the absence of an egr automatically disqualifies the mfg. to sell into CA. It would be really nice to properly heat soak the motor in furnace creek, Death Valley then driving out through immigrant peak road (~5,100ft) with the AC on high and a loaded rear. I would be curious to see how well the ECU copes with a data logger. Does the transmission shift any differently with all of these changes? TIP: Lose the K&N filter oiling step. I had a behind the scenes tour in '96 at Fords technical building in MI. All of the motor durability testing engineers I met responded the same: oil particles get pulled in coating the air density sensor over time modifying LT fuel trims for the worse. Great work you have done.
@@HueJohnson420 Here’s the shop selling the bolt on kit. modd.me/product/4-0l-sohc-v6-eaton-m90-supercharger-kit-setup-no-01/ It would be interesting to put it through its paces with a stock tune in the dessert. I know a few that are desert racing them but they have a tune etc. I do feel the small 3.5psi boost would be ok… but as I said i unfortunately don’t have the circumstances to test it. I’ll keep an eye on the MAF see if it starts getting sluggish or off…. Good to know about the k&n oil. Totally believe that… it just makes sense. 👍 Thanks
Yeah all those things are important if you want to run lots of boost. At only 4-5psi it’s very light. The stock computer seems to compensate for the extra air. I did install a high pressure pump but I’m not even sure that was really needed? I’ve seen guys running 9psi but then you need a tune bigger injectors, high pressure fuel pump and a water injection system to bring down the temps. 6 months so far pulling my trailer and lots of loads no problems at all… fires right up idles like stock. 👌
Thanks! Not yet. 3.0psi the computer can compensate for but now I’m jumping to 5.0 boost I just bought the hardware and software to start playing with the programming. Can’t wait!
Actually think it’s for an F-250 but I believe all of the. Part number- Auto Meter 15011 Gauge Works Steering Column Single Pod I think they are all the same… for me it was just important it had the setup for a standard truck.
Hey 👋 here’s the link…. modd.me/product-category/superchargerkits/ If you sign up to the email list they do regular sales might score 10% off. Any questions about the install just ask 👍
I’ll put a link in the description but if you just search Amazon for universal cold air intake. It comes with a 90, 45 and a few straight pieces all 3” aluminum pipe.
Without the trailer yes but better fuel mileage then before towing now. I’m get 15 miles per gallon towing 2800 lb trailer. I think that’s really good.
Thanks for this video! Most of your videos are similar to my Ranger project and your info is super helpful!! I have been figuring out how to get more power from my '98 Ranger... Do you have any other Supercharger recommendations? Do you think this install would work without the body lift? I am about to replace the body bushings and take the bed off, so kind of at a point where I need to decide If I am going to body lift it. I am considering buying a 3' body lift kit and cutting it down to only 2" while also utilizing a slight crank on the torsion bars with upgraded keys and a leaf spring bracket lift in the back. currently running 32s with a hard torsion crank, the suspension is tighter than I like. Any opinions you have are appreciated.
Right now I also have the 3” body lift. It came like that… I think if I was to do it I’d install a full suspension lift. And skip keys and body lift…. Like you mentioned I think the keys make the front end too stiff. Love the supercharger, not blown away by the power but good solid torque for towing my trailer…. Just make sure your starting off a good solid engine as base with all your maintenance done.
I got a good deal on the charger used and then I rebuilt it the kit I got on sale…. Right now you can pick it up for 25% off. I’d say total maybe 2800$
It might take them a bit, but they usually get back, it’s just a side hustle he’s doing, more as a hobby to help out us ranger fanatics. The only other thing I can suggest is reading through the blogs on the website and the forums. There’s quite a bit of information out there but you may need to really search for it. Sorry
You may have figured this out already. The MAF determines the mass of air being drawn into the vehical by measuring flow across a heated element and combining that reading with the temperature of the incoming air. These two measurements must be taken at the same place which is why they are both built into the MAF sensor. Measuring the air temp after compression and flow at the MAF does not seem to make sense.
Yeah you got it but in the year and model they actually put two sensors in unit … a MAF of course which acts like you mentioned but also an intake air temp sensor. You can actually see two different slots for both sensors. So I just relocated the IAC portion. I hope that makes sense 😄
@@RangerShop1 Measuring the temp of the intake air is combined with the flow measurement to calculate the Mass Air Flow. Some MAF sensors also measure humidity and/or barometric pressure. All of the readings of these sensors are combined to calculate a more accurate Mass Air Flow. All of these measurements are taken at the same place at the same time for a reason.
@@RangerShop1 It occurred to me that I was assuming that the ECU was using the IAT as additional data to use with MAF. I tried to do some research and it seems an ECU may use it to tweak the fuel trims and also may use it to adjust timing. (Presuming retarding timing with to prevent detonation with elevated IAT.) Of course, we don't know what the inside of the 4.0 ECU is doing. It is working for you obviously so the type of sensor and output K/deg must match the sensor at stock location and must fall within the range the ECU can deal with.
Thanks!! So far. I definitely need a tune in my future i think I’d feel much better but I’m debating on getting the tweecer RT and doing in myself or stc and getting a mailed tune. Personally I’d like to play with it myself. Anyways so far so good. I think what I’d limited on my truck is the flow through the MAF. Bigger MAF means I definitely need a tune. To many projects we will see how it goes. 😅
So far I’ve been running it alot for 3 weeks and the mileage is the same hasn’t dropped a bit. But I’m running 91 octane so it more expensive. I feel lilting could run 87 though
Why are you supercharging your engine? Is there that much of a benefit doing that? About your exterior paint job is it so rough that you can sand the wings off of bugs on the highway?
Mostly for torque while towing my trailer, and I actually like the 4.0 SOHC so I wanted to make it work for me. Yeah that paint is rough but super strong!
I port heads for the 4.0! The supercharger was a waste of time. Mounting twin 53 mm turbos almost underneath the engine below the cats has been the best way so far to add power. 42 LB injectors from the Cobra mustang. A reflash of the ECM to handle more than 5 lb of boost. Ring gap was set 18 thou. The same setup on a 4.0 mustang made over 500 ft lb of torque. I'm not trashing you wear your setup either 🙏
No disrespect taken… I think maybe different set ups for different goals. I just need some reliable torque for pulling my trailer through the mud. I feel like it’s perfect for what I needed… any more power and I’d be destroying my t-case or front end, transmission, burning clutches etc. I want to drive this truck for another 200K miles 👍😄
@@RangerShop1 I understand the power level can be kept very low my project is a 2005 explorer. The only thing you really have to do to keep the transmission from grenading is taking out the cloth filter and putting in a mesh screen. I will say this there's a lot of misinformation. There's a racing team that won pikes peak with the same motor. There's another guy from Jersey who gets his into the mid 12's. I don't know what your hearing is but mine is 3:55 front and rear. 2002 Eddie Bauer block because it has thin piston rings
A supercharger would be better for daily driving and better torque at lower rpm.
Super sick build, congrats.
Thanks very happy with the truck I can actually pull out now and merge onto the freeway with my trailer without wondering if someone will rear end me. 😂
You probably need to add an inter cooler to cool the air more.
Yeah I’m not really sure so far it’s been good but I live where it’s cold…. I’ll see what happens when I hit summer
@@RangerShop1 I was looking at the way they ran the Thunderbird setup. Versus this I’m seeing it be hit with a supercharger on. Looks like it would take care of the heat in the hotter climates.
@@RangerShop1 I have the same kit. You will probably want to put water injection on it. Temps can get hot. To the point where it feels like it really negates any boost you are making. Having water injection on my setup really made me feel 1000% better.
I notice my air temps run between 60-80F warmer than ambient when fully warmed up and cruising. Boost and sitting idle makes them go even higher, (unless you have water injection, then they drop quick) I also have the metal temperature senor, which may also get a bit heat soaked, and might be making the temps read warmer then they are to, I am not 100% certain on that though.
@@Samophlan I am looking to do something similar since it seems the Moddbox intercooler isn't produced anymore. Which water injection kit did you go with? Do you have a progressive injection that starts at lower PSI or does it only come on at your peak PSI?
Sorry missed your comment! Great advice there… I’ll definitely be looking into this. I just finished towing my trailer 5000 miles though no problem yet. But I want more boost. 😁
Great video series. Some good indepth knowledge I can use down the road. Thank you kindly!
Glad it was helpful!
Can you pull one off a thunderbird, and what do you need to have to put it on
I would love to do that to my 92 2.9L.
Very thoughtful 🤗When will an issue of Ford car lights installation video？
Glad you found the video 😄👍
Excellent build series!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. Great videos. I have an 03. 4.0 it def needs this!
Right on!
Highly recommend it… really wakes it up. 👍
I didn't see a link to angled oil fill neck listed in discription?
Here is what I used… I think it’s from a mustang.
Dorman OE Solutions 917-415... www.amazon.ca/dp/B00Z7MWKH2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Congratulations on the installation of your new MOD BOX. That is a sweet ride you got there. I have always wondered why Ford done the E.G.R. delete on the 4.0 on just the Rangers in 2003 and not anything else with the 4.0.
Yeah it seems very weird, and the 2003 runs fine without it and passes emissions testing without it….not really sure.
@@RangerShop1 did you get a engine code when you removed it? also post the link for that intake boot you used up against the throttle body! i love my supercharger but i want to go back to a stock air box like you, way better for the water i get up here in washington and looks much cleaner. nice job!!!
For the catch can I am wondering about which valve cover you are coming from? I think one is supposed to be in and the other out but it seems like they both could spit oil
Yeah I think you’re right it should be between the PVC valve and intake. I just took it out. I’ll keep my eye and see if it burns any oil.
Nice build i want to do the same to my 01 with 90k one owner and make it 4x4 also
Highly recommend it! It’s been great so far!
@@RangerShop1 thank you how did you manage to do an 04+ grill into the 02 i want that grill also
Does your Ranger have the 4.10 gears or 3.73?
4:10 👍
@@RangerShop1 Do you like that gear ratio? I have a 2010 with 32 inch tires with 3:73.
@@robedwards6926 I got 32's with 4.10 (originally 3.55) and a truetrac with the same moddbox kit. Really comfortable with how it runs.
Can you share some answers for the viewer. 1. What claims does the mfg. make with respect to maintaining OBD II emissions in California and/or is this a Federal certified Ranger. 2. what impact have your changes made to emissions durring open loop and closed loop under load. 3. Does the ECU get modified in any way? 4. Does your truck use wide band a/f, and o2 sensors. 4. How has the truck performed under load and altitude after any long period heat soaks. 5. How significant have the short and long term fuel trims changed, and have you experienced any leaned out detonation under hard accelerations or when the a/f ratio is excessively dense. Much thanks, and great work.
Ok ill try to answer what I can. Some of this would probably be better to reach out to the manufacture.
1) I don't think its legal in California but I'm not sure. With the low boost pulley I think it would pass emissions but I've never tried. No check engine light is on, it doesn't set any codes.
2) I'm not sure, we don't have that testing here.
3) No ECU tune needed on 3.5psi pulley, not sure about the higher psi pulleys.
4) At high altitude around 10000ft it feels like you have no supercharger at all. Seemed almost stock to me. No heat soak, starts right up all time, runs good no over heating. But I installed an electric fan, I have no EGR, and I installed a 170F T-stat.
5) I have an aftermarket wide band AF meter installed no lean misses ever, always 14.7 -14.9. My fuel economy has improved towing my trailer and on the highway. I can set my cruise control and it doesn't even need to shift.
I'd recommend reaching out to the manufacture for your other questions.
Thanks
@@RangerShop1 Thank you so kindly for your responses. Thought I listened intently, but clueless on mfg contact info. Could you help with that request. Hah! got you on #4 - the absence of an egr automatically disqualifies the mfg. to sell into CA. It would be really nice to properly heat soak the motor in furnace creek, Death Valley then driving out through immigrant peak road (~5,100ft) with the AC on high and a loaded rear. I would be curious to see how well the ECU copes with a data logger. Does the transmission shift any differently with all of these changes? TIP: Lose the K&N filter oiling step. I had a behind the scenes tour in '96 at Fords technical building in MI. All of the motor durability testing engineers I met responded the same: oil particles get pulled in coating the air density sensor over time modifying LT fuel trims for the worse. Great work you have done.
@@HueJohnson420 Here’s the shop selling the bolt on kit.
modd.me/product/4-0l-sohc-v6-eaton-m90-supercharger-kit-setup-no-01/
It would be interesting to put it through its paces with a stock tune in the dessert. I know a few that are desert racing them but they have a tune etc. I do feel the small 3.5psi boost would be ok… but as I said i unfortunately don’t have the circumstances to test it. I’ll keep an eye on the MAF see if it starts getting sluggish or off…. Good to know about the k&n oil. Totally believe that… it just makes sense. 👍
Thanks
Do u need to get it tuned to get the blowers full potential? Also how about fuel delivery? Bigger injectors new high pressure fuel pump?
Yeah all those things are important if you want to run lots of boost. At only 4-5psi it’s very light. The stock computer seems to compensate for the extra air. I did install a high pressure pump but I’m not even sure that was really needed? I’ve seen guys running 9psi but then you need a tune bigger injectors, high pressure fuel pump and a water injection system to bring down the temps. 6 months so far pulling my trailer and lots of loads no problems at all… fires right up idles like stock. 👌
Did you remap the computer with a dino? Nice job btw you took well care of the details
Thanks! Not yet. 3.0psi the computer can compensate for but now I’m jumping to 5.0 boost I just bought the hardware and software to start playing with the programming. Can’t wait!
To JD TV how much to Port & polish 4.0sohc heads
Where did you get the guage pod for the steering column? Is that for a mustang? Just got my mod box kit today
Actually think it’s for an F-250 but I believe all of the. Part number- Auto Meter 15011 Gauge Works Steering Column Single Pod
I think they are all the same… for me it was just important it had the setup for a standard truck.
Does this kit work with the m90 on the Buick 3800
No unfortunately not, it needs the bolt pattern from the ford installation.
Does this kit need a tune?
No the 3.0psi the computer can adapt for… once you go over it needs to be tuned
Where should I order for the mod box's kit for my ranger
Hey 👋
here’s the link…. modd.me/product-category/superchargerkits/
If you sign up to the email list they do regular sales might score 10% off.
Any questions about the install just ask 👍
Where did you get the intake hoses ?
I’ll put a link in the description but if you just search Amazon for universal cold air intake. It comes with a 90, 45 and a few straight pieces all 3” aluminum pipe.
@@RangerShop1 cool thanks
Did it lower your mpg after the supercharger?
Without the trailer yes but better fuel mileage then before towing now.
I’m get 15 miles per gallon towing 2800 lb trailer. I think that’s really good.
What super charger do you use
It’s an M90 off a 90s ford Super Coupe.
@@RangerShop1 thanks I gotta Mazda b4000 troy lee
I just bought a 3 core aluminum racing radiator it don't have any plastic on it and there cheaper than auto parts store replacement
That sounds just like what I need. Could I get a link from you for that?
just goto google and type all aluminum radiator ford ranger you will see a bunch different ones i got mine on ebay
Im having a hard time finding the intake tubes and silicone elbow you used on amazon. Can you post the links to those parts please?
I just added a link for both items in the description. I got them off Amazon.
Thanks for this video! Most of your videos are similar to my Ranger project and your info is super helpful!!
I have been figuring out how to get more power from my '98 Ranger...
Do you have any other Supercharger recommendations?
Do you think this install would work without the body lift?
I am about to replace the body bushings and take the bed off, so kind of at a point where I need to decide If I am going to body lift it. I am considering buying a 3' body lift kit and cutting it down to only 2" while also utilizing a slight crank on the torsion bars with upgraded keys and a leaf spring bracket lift in the back. currently running 32s with a hard torsion crank, the suspension is tighter than I like. Any opinions you have are appreciated.
Right now I also have the 3” body lift. It came like that… I think if I was to do it I’d install a full suspension lift. And skip keys and body lift…. Like you mentioned I think the keys make the front end too stiff.
Love the supercharger, not blown away by the power but good solid torque for towing my trailer…. Just make sure your starting off a good solid engine as base with all your maintenance done.
Hey how much did it rough cost todo this ?
I got a good deal on the charger used and then I rebuilt it the kit I got on sale…. Right now you can pick it up for 25% off. I’d say total maybe 2800$
Does someone just make some extensions for these connectors
Which connectors?
I was referring to the throttle body connectors
@@jpegjake I’m not 100% sure. They came with the kit. Maybe check Rock Auto?
Were you able to get a response from Moddbox? I’ve tried getting in contact but they don’t respond
It might take them a bit, but they usually get back, it’s just a side hustle he’s doing, more as a hobby to help out us ranger fanatics. The only other thing I can suggest is reading through the blogs on the website and the forums. There’s quite a bit of information out there but you may need to really search for it. Sorry
Ok thanks for getting back to me.
You may have figured this out already. The MAF determines the mass of air being drawn into the vehical by measuring flow across a heated element and combining that reading with the temperature of the incoming air. These two measurements must be taken at the same place which is why they are both built into the MAF sensor. Measuring the air temp after compression and flow at the MAF does not seem to make sense.
Yeah you got it but in the year and model they actually put two sensors in unit … a MAF of course which acts like you mentioned but also an intake air temp sensor. You can actually see two different slots for both sensors. So I just relocated the IAC portion. I hope that makes sense 😄
@@RangerShop1 Measuring the temp of the intake air is combined with the flow measurement to calculate the Mass Air Flow. Some MAF sensors also measure humidity and/or barometric pressure. All of the readings of these sensors are combined to calculate a more accurate Mass Air Flow. All of these measurements are taken at the same place at the same time for a reason.
@@RangerShop1 It occurred to me that I was assuming that the ECU was using the IAT as additional data to use with MAF.
I tried to do some research and it seems an ECU may use it to tweak the fuel trims and also may use it to adjust timing. (Presuming retarding timing with to prevent detonation with elevated IAT.) Of course, we don't know what the inside of the 4.0 ECU is doing.
It is working for you obviously so the type of sensor and output K/deg must match the sensor at stock location and must fall within the range the ECU can deal with.
Thanks!!
So far. I definitely need a tune in my future i think I’d feel much better but I’m debating on getting the tweecer RT and doing in myself or stc and getting a mailed tune. Personally I’d like to play with it myself. Anyways so far so good.
I think what I’d limited on my truck is the flow through the MAF. Bigger MAF means I definitely need a tune. To many projects we will see how it goes. 😅
That’s sick man…it is a truck so can’t expect much for mpg but u think it’s gonna drop a lot?
So far I’ve been running it alot for 3 weeks and the mileage is the same hasn’t dropped a bit. But I’m running 91 octane so it more expensive. I feel lilting could run 87 though
Have you drove it with your trailer?
Yeah it great, just what I was expecting. Lots of torque 👍
Does this post ?
Sorry what’s the question?
Would this work on the 4.0 OHV V6????? 👀
I’m not 100% sure. I don’t think so but I’d reach out to Moddbox they would know for sure.
Why are you supercharging your engine? Is there that much of a benefit doing that? About your exterior paint job is it so rough that you can sand the wings off of bugs on the highway?
Mostly for torque while towing my trailer, and I actually like the 4.0 SOHC so I wanted to make it work for me. Yeah that paint is rough but super strong!
If you ever want to sell that supercharger and everything kit if you go another route hmu