It sucks you have to deal with this. Whenever chasing an electronic/computer fault in a car, the first thing I do is pull ALL the grounds, clean them and put dielectric grease on them when re-connecting. Even when they look perfectly clean they can be faulty. Solves the problem about half the time.
In the automotive industry, many ECU's are declared defective but are in fact not the problem. Majority of faults are in the power and ground circuits and how they are tested. Just using a test light or volt meter does not give the full indication that the circuit is good( shows voltage but not amperage potential) Use a headlight bulb as a testlight works in a pinch as it requires about 10 amps to light and will be dim if the circuit cannot handle this amperage ( loose connection, poor ground contact etc) .
I came aboard a 55' sport fisherman in San Diego as machinist's mate/night watch captain to take it to Miami. It had two new V10 MAN's installed. So we fueled up and started down the coast. I soon realized that the boat had no installed fuel tank monitors and no way to sound the tanks with a good old fashioned broomstick. We eventually made it to Cabo and that is the start of another story. I motored straight for the fuel dock and filled the tanks to the brim. Started one engine, then tried to start the other one which immediately killed the first one. Reversing the order produced the same result. The generator and house system was 12v but the engine start system 24v. The only connection between the two was through an invertor. No way to jump start one of the engines with any battery combination we had aboard. The root of the problem is that ECU controlled fuel delivery systems required a full 24v to hold a solenoid open in order to allow fuel to pass. As soon as I tried to use the starter for the second engine the load brought the voltage below a full 24v and shut down the running first engine. By the way, the Owner had run out on a previous bill in Cabo and no mechanic would touch his boat again. A year or two later the company I worked for had a CAT/MTU V12 with electronic controls run away at the dock and blow up throwing pistons and rods through the cylinder heads. My take off is that electronic engine control systems have no place on a boat that is to actually go to sea.
Unlikely 2 bad ECUs from reputable marine engine company. Check all wires and pins in connectors. Check all screw terminals. Ohm each individual wire. See the Nexus vid where Parlay fixed it (loose screw st fuse block). Do not trust factory terminals are tight. Unusual voltage drop is usually a loose connection.
Fully agree with this one: it sounds very much like a wiring issue or problem in the engines wire loom. Would check the wire loom for the faulty engine: either a dodgy wire or connector, possible a crossed wire job... You can compare with the port engine wiring when in doubt...
If you are lucky it’s as simple as mentioned above, but it could be in the wiring harness. Voltage will test fine but when a load is activated by the ecu the voltage will drop if you have a pinched or damaged wire. It doesn’t have to be grounded.. think kinked water hose, except with electrical wire.. it’s a SOB to find. I’m no diesel mechanic, just a bean counter that spent 10 years listening to good mechanics argue in my office, and I have seen weeks of downtime over a current flow issue.
As a field service engineer for CNC machines I can't tell you how many times a replacement electronic part has been faulty straight out of the box. I always feel bad for the customer. Unfortunately our high dependance on electronic components leave us vulnerable to their failure.
@@hansjensen7823 As I never said anything about water pumps I don't know where that came from and supposedly all the drives and I/O units are also properly tested and programmed when they leave the factory yet we get a fair amount of failure.
I would go for a harness/ plug problem now, I would also fit a start switch, not use a screwdriver, between the power +ve and the solenoid terminal and carry on using the boat until they fix it.
Sucks sometimes. I started to read the comments and realized how many people are me. I have lost count of the times something similar has happened across many technologies. I take comfort from knowing that I was able to find the root cause when others missed it. I'm sure you will get to the bottom of this and years from now look back and smile. Oh, and check all the grounds! Always with the grounds.
Everything I’m hearing about these new electronic diesels suggests that they are really not a good idea for cruising sailors. I’ve heard of the Volvo Penta MDI (ECU) issues and now the Yanmar equivalent ☹️ Glad I’ve got a old analogue 4JH4-TE……..😀
Right now I am feeling not so bad about my 1972 OM615 merc engines that don’t produce a huge amount of power and weigh a lot, but nevertheless are simple and fairly reliable…. Having said that, those Yanmars do look cool!
OMG, I’m so glad I watched this video. I have a new YANMAR 80 as well and I’m having nothing but trouble with it. At 10 hours, it quit! Sent the ecmu in and they ran a diagnostic and it said it was a rail pressure issue. Wish me luck!
@@SailingDauntless, If I could talk to you all personally, I would appreciate it. My engine is going to cause me a lot of anxiety--especially with this computer thing. I have a Tartan 4600
Classic symptom of a poor power or ground to the ECU. Test for battery voltage at the ECU powers and grounds. Sounds like when the ECU grounds the starter relay the supply voltage drops below minimum required. That tech should know how to test this problem. Many times a scanner will let you see the fault but a multimeter is the best way to verify. You can also try pulling on each wire and feel for a rubbery feeling that would indicate a bad crimp.
So this is where I have an issue with new Yanmar engines, its not what I would want during a blue ocean voyage. I stand to be corrected but, “ no new Diesel engine may enter USA without being Common rail / approved emissions “ Not sure if Beta which is old style diesel is an option or even available in USA. If I was going offshore, I’d want engines without electronics. As you indicated, you can’t even buy a spare. Had a 4JH57 with a charging issue, same erratic ground that alternated from ground to live and blew alt fuse on engine or just would not charge. I installed a separate ground and not an issue since then, but its not everybody that would analyze that condition on the Ancillary relay circuit.
It's quite likely that one of the problems Yanmar is facing is the computer chip shortage. If that's the case, the problem isn't really with Yanmor. But there should be a Plan B which doesn't involve starting the engine with a screwdriver ...
Nexus Offshore Adventures had an issue with one of their engine’s ECM - Colin of Parlez Revival tore the engine apart testing everything - turned out to be a loose terminal at the fuse for the power cable going to ECM. ECM was fine, it just wasn’t getting the voltage it required due to the loose terminal. Might need some blue Loktite on threads of those terminal bolts.
Thank you for the awesome content. Colin from Parlay recently had a very similar situation, after extensive diagnosis, turned out to a loose connection on mains feed from power supply. Also, could be a bad earth, can give same symptoms of a of flat battery.
You guys check all the grounds that go into the CPU yet, one may be in wrong location and is getting interference and or intermittent short in the wire it’s self , 🍻🍻🍻🍻 I know you’ll figure it out just wanted to help😎🤘⛵️ those are badass engines!
If Yanmar have ghosted the info from 1 ECU to the other if there was a fault in the original one it WILL REPLICATE it in the new one !! hence still no starting . If all else fails it could be a fault in the engine loom . Good luck
Remove all power leads and clean also clean all earths on the boat I have had this before with those types of engine set ups retired auto sparky good luck check it all again check for a bad crimp connector or faulty solder joints
So they copy data from the old computer module to the new module. Then the new module exhibits the same behavior as the old module.. Is that a good summary of the situation? I am betting that this is a software bug that is being copied from one module to the next along with the data.
I recently had a starter motor go on a Mercedes’ A class, it is a nightmare to change and usually means dropping the engine. It took me all day to fix and then when I turned the key, nothing. They had supplied a broken starter motor…. I suspect that after COVID, a lot of bad ‘factory’ work has been done with bad quality control. So not only are we having supply chain issues, but when you get it, it has poor workmanship.
At this point i would have gone to the ECM Fuse point and checked the connection that the Screws were tight. lol just saying :) . Not sure why the tech did not take the other one from the engine that's running to prove that the unit is at fault?? and not something else.
Instead of "that internal Relay is not a servicable Part" from Yanmar and needing Month for a new Unit to only swap the whole ECU. It might be time to get a good Electronic Repairservice in the States together who can troubleshoot that Units on the Component Level? A internal electromagnetic Relai and even a Solid State Relay or FET failure on this Board is an verry Easy fix for someone with the knowwlege and a soldering iron^^ and also.. you showed you can hotwire the engine to crank it over ther should be a failsafe mode to run it somehow... but surely if you build in a ECU who monitors engine hours and other stuff to me "programmed" and "Monitored" you give up a lot of freedom to use your stuff as you owne it^^ Ask the Famres with the John Deere Machines about how this feels. And they dont sink in the middle of the ocean and die with your whole familiy just because you want to monitor the whole lifespan of an engine to bound you to our factory service dealers...^^
I suggest that everyone learn what Right to Repair is and what it means. The manufacturers are spending a lot of money paying off legislators to prevent right to repair laws from being enacted. The manufacturers what a closed system where you can ONLY use them for service. They have a monopoly and can keep prices very high and force you to buy new when it is out of warranty. There will come a day when nothing can be replaced by the user as it will all require the manufacturer to program the part to work in the system. Even things like thermostats have computers that need to be programmed (my brother is a mechanic on high german cars). Imagine what happens if there is a slight bit of corrosion on a connector and the voltage sometimes goes out of requirements and stops the engine. I have seen this on cars. Anyway good luck on these computerized engines. Just imagine being in the middle of the pacific and this happens with the computer (oh, this crap happens way more then you want to know).
Regardless of how "unbelievably efficient, convenient, vital etc" all the electronics are on a boat... People can die if it doesn't work. There should be some way to override all the BS and start your engine and continue to a safe port. Electronics and water (especially salt water) don't mix. Electric cars, same problem. If it's -10°F and someone's grandma is driving home in the snow when her car goes into limp mode or shuts down and says to bring in for service... the situation probably isn't going to end well. It isn't a tangent/slim chance notion that something like that could happen. The whole Northern section of the US gets that kind of weather. Great video, best of luck to you.
when you upload, please turn on auto generated subtitles, it would be very much appreciated, not just for hard of hearing, also for watching when audio cant be turned up.
I'm curious. Why 2 expensive complicated INBOARD engines as compared to 2 transom mounted OUTBOARD of 100 to 150 hp each. Wouldn't that be way simpler and less expensive?
because diesel outboards suck balls, also you lose access to your transom / sugar scoops, heavy weather can flood the engines. Lots of reason, I have seen smaller cats with outboards, generally with center mounted long shaft outboards but they coastal cruisers and not actual bluewater cats.
Can't fault you for going with the Yanmar conventional power system arrangements. One side is working fine so technically your glass is half full. Tell me where to meet you so you can beat me up.
With the chip shortage we are seeing a lot more board failures on out industrial controls with a lot more stringent trace spacing and component control. Component failures have gone up by a factory of 150-200x what it was pre pandemic. It’s just components tolerances aren’t what they should be. Things pass QC that shouldn’t.
I know it’s new but internal relays are a bad deal I would be tempted to do a external relay it’s serviceable and cheap any Chrysler owner will know what I mean internal relays are trash
Yanmar you’re not selling it to me I’m afraid. I’ll stick with my old fashioned ‘tractor engine’ Volvo. Who would want to be stuck somewhere for 2 months waiting for a computer part.
Alot of the problems with the new parts is they get the cheapest place to make there parts so that means wages are less for the person making them and caring about their work is what suffers I've had Alot more faulty parts the last few years than ever before
We're not certain if you all are still in Fort Pierce or not, but hoping you stay safe as Nicole makes landfall. This is not a good time to be down an engine.
NEW = never ever works, Yanmar may not sell you a spare but if you use the Bosch no. to find a used one it could be cloned so you could have one ready to go as a spare, even if you bought a dud they can be repaired relatively easily.
Check out Nexus Offshore Adventures TH-cam Channel. VLOG "Engine Failure - Parlay to the Rescue" from a few days ago. colin swapped out the ECU on a similar engine loking for a problem. It did not look difficult. If the engine still has a problem it may well be a loose terminal in the loom.
Parts $200 x 300% mark up = $600.00 Labour 8 hr day x $100 = $800.00 Blammo - $1400.00 There have been a lot of court challenges to the "right to repair" as OEM's won't provide the information to repair equipment
As usually happens with an OEM, they thrive on control and have little faith in empowering their dealers. The end result is the dealer works hard to provide a service and is let down by an anal OEM. Next step is the OEM will send you a survey wanting to see how your dealer has performed but it will be a cold day in hell before you get a survey rating the OEM's competencies hahaa!!
Stupid that it would be harder to work on a car engine than your boat engine yet 1400 USD for two oil changes? 100 bucks plus parts to get the car done.
Wohoops 2 mins of a Black screen guys lol ive had parts many times brand new and they been no good first time it happens you think No Way second time still think no way 3 rd time I expect it now Sorry for yo0u guys new Boat and cant use it Sucks
These new engines with engine computers with stupid relays inside the ecu getting hot and subject to vibration is the stupidest design for an offshore vessel. I would prefer Beta marine simplicity.
Ja well , no fine...... , You bought the engine , but it belong to Yanmar , the Dear John problem ..... you only own so many Kg of metal , the motor still belong to Yanmar. What if this happen when you are in a bad storm in the middle of the nowhere , sail is gone and you have to point or you capsize (phone their service rep ? ) ,,,, F this- where you pay and they own it........
Rather disgusting they make it so complicated you can't do anything YOURSELF, and they charge exorbitant fees to fix THEIR OWN BRAND NEW EQUIPMENT! I'd stick to sail power and leave fossil fuel power in the company's warehouse!!
Please don't use a screwdriver to jump the starter. Here's an appropriate remote start button to add to your tool kit. www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3630-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B000EVU8MK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2LNQ29Q6KV36Q&keywords=remote+start+button&qid=1667765780&sprefix=remote+start+b%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-5
It sucks you have to deal with this. Whenever chasing an electronic/computer fault in a car, the first thing I do is pull ALL the grounds, clean them and put dielectric grease on them when re-connecting. Even when they look perfectly clean they can be faulty. Solves the problem about half the time.
In the automotive industry, many ECU's are declared defective but are in fact not the problem. Majority of faults are in the power and ground circuits and how they are tested. Just using a test light or volt meter does not give the full indication that the circuit is good( shows voltage but not amperage potential) Use a headlight bulb as a testlight works in a pinch as it requires about 10 amps to light and will be dim if the circuit cannot handle this amperage ( loose connection, poor ground contact etc) .
I came aboard a 55' sport fisherman in San Diego as machinist's mate/night watch captain to take it to Miami. It had two new V10 MAN's installed. So we fueled up and started down the coast. I soon realized that the boat had no installed fuel tank monitors and no way to sound the tanks with a good old fashioned broomstick. We eventually made it to Cabo and that is the start of another story. I motored straight for the fuel dock and filled the tanks to the brim. Started one engine, then tried to start the other one which immediately killed the first one. Reversing the order produced the same result. The generator and house system was 12v but the engine start system 24v. The only connection between the two was through an invertor. No way to jump start one of the engines with any battery combination we had aboard.
The root of the problem is that ECU controlled fuel delivery systems required a full 24v to hold a solenoid open in order to allow fuel to pass. As soon as I tried to use the starter for the second engine the load brought the voltage below a full 24v and shut down the running first engine. By the way, the Owner had run out on a previous bill in Cabo and no mechanic would touch his boat again.
A year or two later the company I worked for had a CAT/MTU V12 with electronic controls run away at the dock and blow up throwing pistons and rods through the cylinder heads.
My take off is that electronic engine control systems have no place on a boat that is to actually go to sea.
Unlikely 2 bad ECUs from reputable marine engine company. Check all wires and pins in connectors. Check all screw terminals. Ohm each individual wire. See the Nexus vid where Parlay fixed it (loose screw st fuse block). Do not trust factory terminals are tight. Unusual voltage drop is usually a loose connection.
Fully agree with this one: it sounds very much like a wiring issue or problem in the engines wire loom. Would check the wire loom for the faulty engine: either a dodgy wire or connector, possible a crossed wire job... You can compare with the port engine wiring when in doubt...
@@jorritschreuder9253 Wait didnt he say they swapped ECUs and it started?? That would seem to clearly indicate bad ECUs
If you are lucky it’s as simple as mentioned above, but it could be in the wiring harness. Voltage will test fine but when a load is activated by the ecu the voltage will drop if you have a pinched or damaged wire. It doesn’t have to be grounded.. think kinked water hose, except with electrical wire.. it’s a SOB to find. I’m no diesel mechanic, just a bean counter that spent 10 years listening to good mechanics argue in my office, and I have seen weeks of downtime over a current flow issue.
Really good thing your not trouble shooting ,the other engines ECU runs in that engine. I'd go out on a limb that the ECU is programed wrong
Yep, something controls that relay in the ECU. I would check that signal before I called another ECU bad.
Make sure you load test the engine and ECU ground. I have seen lots of various ground issues in the past. (in cars). Same stuff though.
Odd to have two computers with the same issue I would check things like connectors and wiring harnesses
Congratulations on keeping a cool head in investigating, analyzing, communicating and baby-sitting this problem.
As a field service engineer for CNC machines I can't tell you how many times a replacement electronic part has been faulty straight out of the box. I always feel bad for the customer. Unfortunately our high dependance on electronic components leave us vulnerable to their failure.
But we aren’t talking about a water pump, ECU’s are 100% assembly line tested
@@hansjensen7823 As I never said anything about water pumps I don't know where that came from and supposedly all the drives and I/O units are also properly tested and programmed when they leave the factory yet we get a fair amount of failure.
I would go for a harness/ plug problem now, I would also fit a start switch, not use a screwdriver, between the power +ve and the solenoid terminal and carry on using the boat until they fix it.
Sucks sometimes. I started to read the comments and realized how many people are me. I have lost count of the times something similar has happened across many technologies. I take comfort from knowing that I was able to find the root cause when others missed it. I'm sure you will get to the bottom of this and years from now look back and smile. Oh, and check all the grounds! Always with the grounds.
Those damn computers! (Former software engineer)
Everything I’m hearing about these new electronic diesels suggests that they are really not a good idea for cruising sailors. I’ve heard of the Volvo Penta MDI (ECU) issues and now the Yanmar equivalent ☹️ Glad I’ve got a old analogue 4JH4-TE……..😀
Right now I am feeling not so bad about my 1972 OM615 merc engines that don’t produce a huge amount of power and weigh a lot, but nevertheless are simple and fairly reliable…. Having said that, those Yanmars do look cool!
No they look plastic and not fit for purpose !!
Collin was fixing the same had voltage drop swapped out ecu's didn't work found a screw loose . Nexus offshore adventures
Yeah looks like a repeat of parlay huh
@@deanvaughan8477 was that a fuse or relay?
OMG, I’m so glad I watched this video. I have a new YANMAR 80 as well and I’m having nothing but trouble with it. At 10 hours, it quit! Sent the ecmu in and they ran a diagnostic and it said it was a rail pressure issue. Wish me luck!
Glad it helped!
@@SailingDauntless, If I could talk to you all personally, I would appreciate it. My engine is going to cause me a lot of anxiety--especially with this computer thing. I have a Tartan 4600
Thecrew@sailingdauntless.com
Classic symptom of a poor power or ground to the ECU. Test for battery voltage at the ECU powers and grounds. Sounds like when the ECU grounds the starter relay the supply voltage drops below minimum required. That tech should know how to test this problem. Many times a scanner will let you see the fault but a multimeter is the best way to verify. You can also try pulling on each wire and feel for a rubbery feeling that would indicate a bad crimp.
So this is where I have an issue with new Yanmar engines, its not what I would want during a blue ocean voyage. I stand to be corrected but, “ no new Diesel engine may enter USA without being Common rail / approved emissions “ Not sure if Beta which is old style diesel is an option or even available in USA. If I was going offshore, I’d want engines without electronics. As you indicated, you can’t even buy a spare. Had a 4JH57 with a charging issue, same erratic ground that alternated from ground to live and blew alt fuse on engine or just would not charge. I installed a separate ground and not an issue since then, but its not everybody that would analyze that condition on the Ancillary relay circuit.
It's quite likely that one of the problems Yanmar is facing is the computer chip shortage. If that's the case, the problem isn't really with Yanmor. But there should be a Plan B which doesn't involve starting the engine with a screwdriver ...
Nexus Offshore Adventures had an issue with one of their engine’s ECM - Colin of Parlez Revival tore the engine apart testing everything - turned out to be a loose terminal at the fuse for the power cable going to ECM. ECM was fine, it just wasn’t getting the voltage it required due to the loose terminal. Might need some blue Loktite on threads of those terminal bolts.
Woah, that might insulate them more !!
Wow...warranty will pay for itself before ya's get to leave dock... awesome that you thought ahead!!
Thank you for the awesome content.
Colin from Parlay recently had a very similar situation, after extensive diagnosis, turned out to a loose connection on mains feed from power supply. Also, could be a bad earth, can give same symptoms of a of flat battery.
You guys check all the grounds that go into the CPU yet, one may be in wrong location and is getting interference and or intermittent short in the wire it’s self , 🍻🍻🍻🍻 I know you’ll figure it out just wanted to help😎🤘⛵️ those are badass engines!
Significant bummer. But not the first time a replacement part was also bad. Hope you get it resolved soon.
Very frustrating! So glad you bought new afterall!
Try the ECU off the good engine, on the bad engine. See if it starts.
They did exactly that, it proved the engine isn't the problem.
So much for Yanmar electronics QC process
Curious if you tried the 2 ‘bad’ ECUs in the port side engine?
Agreed, points more towards a harness/plug problem!
If Yanmar have ghosted the info from 1 ECU to the other if there was a fault in the original one it WILL REPLICATE it in the new one !! hence still no starting . If all else fails it could be a fault in the engine loom . Good luck
Go with a Nanni/kubota engine. No electronics!
You stole my point, I love my Phaser/kubota
HI ALL
THE one great thing WE HAVE WARRANTY LOL best thing is yanmar BACK THERE WARRANTY ??? shout out to them from Australia chip away buddy
Parlay Revival had the same problem . Turned out to be a loose screw on a wire junction.
Ford style starter solenoid added to the start system may fix your problem.
Do you think that maybe whatever they downloaded from the other one went into the new one and is causing it to do whatever to the new one
Remove all power leads and clean also clean all earths on the boat I have had this before with those types of engine set ups retired auto sparky good luck check it all again check for a bad crimp connector or faulty solder joints
Wouldn’t that be handy when your dragging anchor….. how bad do we need a computer to run a diesel?
So they copy data from the old computer module to the new module. Then the new module exhibits the same behavior as the old module.. Is that a good summary of the situation? I am betting that this is a software bug that is being copied from one module to the next along with the data.
I recently had a starter motor go on a Mercedes’ A class, it is a nightmare to change and usually means dropping the engine. It took me all day to fix and then when I turned the key, nothing. They had supplied a broken starter motor…. I suspect that after COVID, a lot of bad ‘factory’ work has been done with bad quality control. So not only are we having supply chain issues, but when you get it, it has poor workmanship.
Wow hang in there
Never have on a boat an engine with ECU
100% agree ,for god's sake its a diesel ,there is no electrical to run it ,Ie cam postion crank sensors ,KISS keep it simple stupid
The VOLVO PENTA D3 series is another ECU controlled engine that should never be installed on any vessel !!! A Total nightmare to start
I fear it's only a bad connection . An actual qualified electrical tech with a meter could find it in 20 minutes.
Grounding fuse to the cpu is the problem, trust me I've had this problem with my van .
At this point i would have gone to the ECM Fuse point and checked the connection that the Screws were tight. lol just saying :) . Not sure why the tech did not take the other one from the engine that's running to prove that the unit is at fault?? and not something else.
Instead of "that internal Relay is not a servicable Part" from Yanmar and needing Month for a new Unit to only swap the whole ECU.
It might be time to get a good Electronic Repairservice in the States together who can troubleshoot that Units on the Component Level? A internal electromagnetic Relai and even a Solid State Relay or FET failure on this Board is an verry Easy fix for someone with the knowwlege and a soldering iron^^
and also.. you showed you can hotwire the engine to crank it over ther should be a failsafe mode to run it somehow... but surely if you build in a ECU who monitors engine hours and other stuff to me "programmed" and "Monitored" you give up a lot of freedom to use your stuff as you owne it^^
Ask the Famres with the John Deere Machines about how this feels.
And they dont sink in the middle of the ocean and die with your whole familiy just because you want to monitor the whole lifespan of an engine to bound you to our factory service dealers...^^
I wanna know what that was in the water at 2:10 over Ty's shoulder?!
What happened to "right to repair"? - they will not sell you a spare ecu?
I suggest that everyone learn what Right to Repair is and what it means. The manufacturers are spending a lot of money paying off legislators to prevent right to repair laws from being enacted. The manufacturers what a closed system where you can ONLY use them for service. They have a monopoly and can keep prices very high and force you to buy new when it is out of warranty. There will come a day when nothing can be replaced by the user as it will all require the manufacturer to program the part to work in the system. Even things like thermostats have computers that need to be programmed (my brother is a mechanic on high german cars). Imagine what happens if there is a slight bit of corrosion on a connector and the voltage sometimes goes out of requirements and stops the engine. I have seen this on cars. Anyway good luck on these computerized engines. Just imagine being in the middle of the pacific and this happens with the computer (oh, this crap happens way more then you want to know).
Regardless of how "unbelievably efficient, convenient, vital etc" all the electronics are on a boat... People can die if it doesn't work. There should be some way to override all the BS and start your engine and continue to a safe port. Electronics and water (especially salt water) don't mix. Electric cars, same problem. If it's -10°F and someone's grandma is driving home in the snow when her car goes into limp mode or shuts down and says to bring in for service... the situation probably isn't going to end well. It isn't a tangent/slim chance notion that something like that could happen. The whole Northern section of the US gets that kind of weather.
Great video, best of luck to you.
when you upload, please turn on auto generated subtitles, it would be very much appreciated, not just for hard of hearing, also for watching when audio cant be turned up.
Sounds like wire harness maybe. that thing was under water. Best of luck you'll get it.
I'm curious. Why 2 expensive complicated INBOARD engines as compared to 2 transom mounted OUTBOARD of 100 to 150 hp each. Wouldn't that be way simpler and less expensive?
because diesel outboards suck balls, also you lose access to your transom / sugar scoops, heavy weather can flood the engines. Lots of reason, I have seen smaller cats with outboards, generally with center mounted long shaft outboards but they coastal cruisers and not actual bluewater cats.
Ty watch parlay he went through the same thing
I wonder if they by mistake packaged old ICU instead of new one.....
Sit... that is frustrating! That is where old school and no electronics win again!
Can't fault you for going with the Yanmar conventional power system arrangements. One side is working fine so technically your glass is half full. Tell me where to meet you so you can beat me up.
With the chip shortage we are seeing a lot more board failures on out industrial controls with a lot more stringent trace spacing and component control. Component failures have gone up by a factory of 150-200x what it was pre pandemic. It’s just components tolerances aren’t what they should be. Things pass QC that shouldn’t.
I know it’s new but internal relays are a bad deal I would be tempted to do a external relay it’s serviceable and cheap any Chrysler owner will know what I mean internal relays are trash
Yanmar you’re not selling it to me I’m afraid. I’ll stick with my old fashioned ‘tractor engine’ Volvo. Who would want to be stuck somewhere for 2 months waiting for a computer part.
Rumble
I wonder if you told them the boat was sunk .
Alot of the problems with the new parts is they get the cheapest place to make there parts so that means wages are less for the person making them and caring about their work is what suffers I've had Alot more faulty parts the last few years than ever before
We're not certain if you all are still in Fort Pierce or not, but hoping you stay safe as Nicole makes landfall. This is not a good time to be down an engine.
Did u ever get this fixed
Yep! Low battery voltage 🤷♂️
NEW = never ever works, Yanmar may not sell you a spare but if you use the Bosch no. to find a used one it could be cloned so you could have one ready to go as a spare, even if you bought a dud they can be repaired relatively easily.
Ask them to take the computer from a new engine they have in stock to get you mobile .
Check out Nexus Offshore Adventures TH-cam Channel. VLOG "Engine Failure - Parlay to the Rescue" from a few days ago. colin swapped out the ECU on a similar engine loking for a problem. It did not look difficult. If the engine still has a problem it may well be a loose terminal in the loom.
Enough fooling around, lets see the new air conditioning and electrical system for the 50.
These computers are great, when they work. The expense and complexity are not something I will be looking for on my cat.
Check the fuses for the ecu, can be loose connection. th-cam.com/video/NZmcAWoAcSc/w-d-xo.html
That is a sucky situation with the engine.
First comment 💪
The East Texas cure would be to take a hammer to it.
👍☑
Parts $200 x 300% mark up = $600.00
Labour 8 hr day x $100 = $800.00
Blammo - $1400.00
There have been a lot of court challenges to the "right to repair" as OEM's won't provide the information to repair equipment
As usually happens with an OEM, they thrive on control and have little faith in empowering their dealers. The end result is the dealer works hard to provide a service and is let down by an anal OEM. Next step is the OEM will send you a survey wanting to see how your dealer has performed but it will be a cold day in hell before you get a survey rating the OEM's competencies hahaa!!
The sound is very low, so know can't hear what you're saying.
Stupid that it would be harder to work on a car engine than your boat engine yet 1400 USD for two oil changes? 100 bucks plus parts to get the car done.
Your yacht costs $769,000 that’s i hole house
A very strange issue sort of like yours in the vid from this morning th-cam.com/video/NZmcAWoAcSc/w-d-xo.html
Wohoops 2 mins of a Black screen guys lol ive had parts many times brand new and they been no good first time it happens you think No Way second time still think no way 3 rd time I expect it now Sorry for yo0u guys new Boat and cant use it Sucks
LIKE👍👍👍👍👍👍💯💯💯💯😻😻😻😻😻😻
Lesson learned, don't fit Yanmar🤐
These new engines with engine computers with stupid relays inside the ecu getting hot and subject to vibration is the stupidest design for an offshore vessel. I would prefer Beta marine simplicity.
Beta Marine-Beta Marine-Beta Marine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ja well , no fine...... , You bought the engine , but it belong to Yanmar , the Dear John problem ..... you only own so many Kg of metal , the motor still belong to Yanmar. What if this happen when you are in a bad storm in the middle of the nowhere , sail is gone and you have to point or you capsize (phone their service rep ? ) ,,,, F this- where you pay and they own it........
Rather disgusting they make it so complicated you can't do anything YOURSELF, and they charge exorbitant fees to fix THEIR OWN BRAND NEW EQUIPMENT! I'd stick to sail power and leave fossil fuel power in the company's warehouse!!
$1,400.00 oil change..... I'm in the WRONG business !!!! LOL....
Please don't use a screwdriver to jump the starter. Here's an appropriate remote start button to add to your tool kit. www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3630-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B000EVU8MK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2LNQ29Q6KV36Q&keywords=remote+start+button&qid=1667765780&sprefix=remote+start+b%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-5
So much for Yanmar electronics QC process