I installed a Petronics in my VW Bug. 18-20 yrs ago. The first time I fired it up I noticed it started quicker and idled faster. Peeps on the VW forums warned me they go out all the time and told me to carry points and condenser. I have never had any problems with the Petronics it’s been one of those things you install and never worry about.
Same here and have many friends that say the same. With a mass produced product only the negative usually gets spread around while the people with good experiences just quietly use the item and go on with their lives.
All coils are 6 volt. Some run internal resisters allowing them to be used with a straight 12 volt and some use a external resister. H.A.M.B. called said they wanted their membership card back, said pertronix is not traditional. Pertronix are very good till they leave you sitting on the side of the road.
not petronix but i have had a Hays magna pulse coupled with a Judson electronic magneto coil since 1975 used it on several GM engines never had a fail. the ignition control is the size of a box of kitchen matches
A question - if "all coils are 6 volt" - On an original 1939 Ford (for example), running the original engine, ignition system, etc, AND a 6 volt battery - what is the voltage supply to the coil?
I'm a points guy- I have been driving points-equipped cars for almost 50 yrs, and have never had a problem with them-some of my friends have installed solid state ignition systems in their cars, and had failures-maybe due to installation mistakes, but I'll stick with points-thanks for the video-I know it will help others that will be changing over.
57Banjoman also there’s no way to diagnose issues with the electronic ignition, at least not on the sides of the road. With points you can manually open and shut them and watch the coil wire fire.
Hey you guys! Glad to see you're back at it together. Matt, I enjoyed seeing you working on stuff in the past month or so , but having Mike back really ratchets it up a notch for me. Love the sound of the "Y" block, not as cool as a flathead , but better than a small block Chev.
the instant start-up and nice idle is why I have been using the petronics ignition conversion since the 80's. I have even used them on my circle track stock cars. a very affordable and reliable conversion.
@@IronTrapGarage yet you seemed so surprised when it fired right up! the only time I get anxious is when I have built a whole new engine with all new parts and I fire it up for the first time.
4 ปีที่แล้ว +1
I really love that 39 and to hear it pop right off like that was very cool,....you've really done that old lady justice!!!!! It also makes me wonder the circumstances that ended her up lost and abandoned in that graveyard?????
Relocate the coil to the firewall when you do the manifold and carb setup, keep the heat off the coil. Baby steps are what no one wants to show in a build...but learning this is what people are interested in, because they never did it!
Yes baby steps is the way to go. Too often people get in a hurry just so they can get it on the road. I like the fact that Matt made sure the engine would idle before he did anything. That was a smart move. Otherwise if it hadn't worked you would natural assume it was the Pertronics and wind up chasing ghosts. Good call Matt
The Pertronix kits are great. After I added one to my old car it ran better, was easier to tune and it always runs better, even than when it had new points. I used to tune a lot of old cars for people and I got to the point where I would insist on installing a Pertronix kit before I'd tune their car. I've been running mine for over 20 years and it has never failed. There is a set of points and condenser ( and other parts) under the rear seat of my car but I've never needed them.
Hi Matt I had the same setup in my '48 dodge ute (pilothouse pickup up there) it was running a 272 Y block then, it always started easy after fitting but I kept the points etc in the glove box just in case it failed.I t even improved the gas mileage.... it went from 10 mpg to 11 lol Cheers
Baby steps!!!! Used to hear that from an engineer when I worked, and very valuable mindset. You tested it all before you put it together permanently AND pre-tested the engine BEFORE the conversion!!!! KEY steps!!!!!!
A fun sanity check after installing a Pertronix set is to time the ignition, then shut down the engine and rotate the crank to whatever crank angle you set the timing. Then, pull the cap and confirm the rotor is clocked correctly to the proper plug post on the cap. I put one of these in my late '20s Delco distributor and it was way off. I think they sent me a kit set up for clockwise rotation instead of the counter-clockwise that I needed. I just re-drilled the pickup and to move it and give me proper rotor timing. I put 20k miles on it so far and still works great.
@@midgetrace You are correct. The Hall Effect pick up triggers when the magnetic flux density exceeds the trigger level no matter which direction the magnet approaches the sensor. In the Pertronix ignition, the trigger magnets are in the plastic piece pressed over the distributor breaker cam. So as the cam rotates clockwise the leading edges of the magnets trigger the sensor. If the distributor rotation is reversed to counter-clockwise, the magnets still trigger the sensor, however, the new leading edge of the magnets is now what was the trailing edge in the clockwise direction, so the trigger is at a different distributor angle than when turning clockwise. And, the rotor may not be properly pointing at the desired electrode in the cap, as I experienced in my reversed direction Delco distributor installed in my 1919 Franklin car. But don't believe me. Call Pertronix tech support and tell them you have a CW Pertronix kit that you now want to turn CCW in the same distributor. Ask them if it's cool.
Just love the Pertonics kits. My brother had an Iron Duke motor in one of his cars that kept blowing coils and after we fit the Flame Thrower coil it was all at an end. Because it bolts to the head the heat just destroyed all other coils and AC Delco coils were not sold in South Africa in the early 90's we chose this one. 40 000 volts also sold us on it.
big friggin battery might have had something to do with that sucker spinning over so quick. but pertronix is popular for a good reason it seems. man that car has a great stance. good to see mike making an appearance too!
I had one that was a lazer light that shot thru slots in the cap/rotor.. On my 73 Mustang mach 1 with a 351 Cleveland motor.. Back in like 1992..it was just as easily installed. I was like good bye points! It ran great. I can't remember the name of the thing.. But it was I guess the older version of that.
Nicely done Matt! I have the M&H Electronic Ignition in my 65 GTO, Works Fantastic, has (ONE WIRE) coming out the Side of the Distributor that LOOKS more Stock. Both are GREAT IGNITION Systems, Mine has been working on my GTO Since 1998.
For ANY older points ignition engine, do yourself and the engine a big favor, fit ''electronic ignition'', engine starts better ( 13m 47s in video ) runs and it will burn the better because of a nice BIG fat spark! Yes i speak from experience! Small Chev dizzy is at the back, Ford 289/302 etc is at the front.
I did a conversion in a 1960 f350 and it was so easy. My father when young could clean his points in the dark in the winter in 3 feet of snow pointed uphill,lol.
I put one of those on my 57 International cub got tired of condencers and points set the timing the other day it was off a little starts easy the only thing the timing doesn't advance on my 6 volt , great add on to any vintage car or tractor
Had an olds rocket with points and the original 2 barrel which was giving me trouble. Switched to a Holley 2 barrel and pertronix. Night and day difference. Instant crank up.
i like. just came home from my garage. nice watching you wrench, makes me wanna drive back :D btw: you´ll need another relais cause the original starter button switches to ground, but the new starter solenoids are plus controlled, so switch the relais with the "starter button ground-control" and plus with the relais for the solenoid. at least that´s what i did!
Hey Matt. If you ever decide to use a different carb instead of the teapot you will need to change the distributor to a 57 or later (or mallory, etc) as these older "loadamatic" vacuum advances doesn't work well with a non- stock carb. All 49-56 ford products use this setup where the vacuum advance is paired with the carb. Just a bit of info.
I literally just did the opposite of what you did I bought an aftermarket HEI distributor small scale distributor and what a piece of junk, so I replaced it with my old accel dual point Needle bearing distributor that I've been using since 1973 But added MSD 6AL Box to it, and it fired up like you just did, fast and easy
Since that was a six volt set up if it’s a 6 volt starter that is probably why it spun over so easily. I have a Willy’s Jeep as you can see in my profile pic that I switched over to 12 volt but have never done the started. I’m told it’ll eventually burn up but as long as you are not hammering on it it will last. Mines been going strong since 2013. Glad this worked so smooth for ya. Keep up the vids really do enjoy and look forward to them. Oh and by the way when Mike asked about the screwdriver I was rolling on that one!
I think you are making a great decision to change out that carburetor. First, I think it might have a nick name of "the towering inferno" LOL, if my memory is correct. Plus three carbs are just cool.
Hi guys, first of all happy workers' day, excellent reform in the distributor, super simple and very effective, and Matt's astonished face certifies I send you a hug from Argentina
3-97's should be just right. Progressive linkage also perfect. After all it's a Y-block with a glass driveline. You're doing just the right stuff to make it fun yet streetable. I would be searching for one of those Under-Dash Record players to complete the effect.
hello guys, fantastic job, this type of ignition system upgrade works very well, I mounted a Dynatek on a Moto Guzzi V35 and there were no more ignition problems due to humidity, the wear of the points etc .... Have a Nice Weekend!
Super helpful as this is something im doing with my 47 Dodge. So the wiring video was a huge help as well. Thank you for awesome content and just got myself a shirt ordered.
This video is perfect timing Matt. I just start planning the rewiring of my 51 Shoebox, and the pertronix for my flathead was on the list. Thanks for another great and helpful video.
Three things: 1. That firewall green color is about identical to the factory color my 40 pickup was 2. You may have helped me to decide on a pertronix for my flathead, mine starts that easy with points now, but no maintenance is a win 3. Are you going to lose the cowl radio antenna, and put one back on the roof above the windshield peak? They look way cooler up there!
Every one of those two piece Pertronix I have installed has failed. I used a few of the single piece where you have to pull the shaft out to install them and they have been flawless. I guess that's why the two piece style are easy to install?
Keep the points stuff in the car with youu but with a 12 volt condenser That way you can swap it out if the Pertronix craps out on a road trip. I helped a guy with a VW Beetle do this in a hotel parking lot. The issue is parts stores don’t carry Pertronix parts but most have points still.
@@IronTrapGarage yeah I saw that!! Ran freaking nice too, used those on Triumph motorcycle and few others like BSA they work good just have to control the auto advance.
Cool. But I don't see the problem with points. Really need to tidy up the cutting on the firewall where they made room for the engine. Looks really rough.
No little plastic feeler gauge to set the gap? I’ve used Pertronix on a couple cars now, I’ve always had good luck with them, they work great. Awesome as usual!
I doubt that you will do it but, I would love to see the ‘39 painted the green that is on the firewall (original color). With the three duce intake and the electronic ignition, that engine should run far better than a stocker.
Using a ballast resistor on the Coil is fine but just make sure you are not pulling the hot line to the magnetic pickup after the ballast. The magnetic pickup needs a full 12V or it will burn out quick. So get the full 12V before the ballast resistor (in other words don't connect it to the hot side of the coil but to the full 12V side of the ballast resistor)
I put a similar system in a 318 marine motor 20+/- years ago. Eliminated the bi-weekly points maintenance. At the time it was about $60. Worth every penny.
I know hot rods are supposed to be black but I kinda like the blue/green on the firewall, its too bad it got repainted you dont see alot of fat fender fords that color. Congrats on getting it running!
hi Matt that ol y block sounds great it be a big improvement over the std side valve v8 s 85hp ?? what sort of hp does the y block ?? great idea to get rid of the old points set up the 39 will make a great realible cruiser its come along way since you dragged it out of that swamp regards Chris S NSW Australia
do you know for sure you have the correct distributor? not the load a matic if your going to change the carb. i bought a new distributor at napa for a 60's truck.
Great to again see GENUINE work from your shop. We're all chuffed when stuff works, as you were. (Why can't the networks see this is so much better than all their staged stuff). P.S. Can't you hide that ballast resistor? Old but clean and simple?
If the car didnt have a good we would. The coil and resistor are hidden on the Pagoda City Coupe. Networks seek entertainment, they think drama is entertaining
My favorite project! You're gettin close. I was wondering if you were going to update the ignition. Those weren't the most performance minded distributors but they did get the job done and it has the tach drive. Can't wait for the next installment.
@@IronTrapGarage The look on your face when it started was priceless, lol. I forgot what it felt like when you finish a project and it worked better than expected.
I'm pretty sure that distributor has no mechanical advance. It uses a venturi vacuum signal from the carburetor to advance the timing with rpm. Your vacuum advance should have two vacuum lines going to it. If you change out carburetors, you need to figure out how to get a venturi signal to the distributor. Ford used this until 57 when they added centrifugal advance to the distributor. The 57 T-Bird distributor has a tach drive, but they are scarce as hen's teeth.
@@IowaMercMan bubba is closeing shop tho. Also a question for whoever. If iam running an 8ba in my 49 with a 6 volt stock system and thinking about going Petronix do i need a ballast resistor ? or would the drop be too much.
Nice !!! Only one question: The ballast resistor knocks 12 Volts down to 6 or 9 volts (don't remember). When you use a coil that already has the "built in" resistance to do that and you add a ballast resistor, what voltage do you end up with at the module/coil??? You might want to run that by Pertronics??? Those old (in the day) Ford Solenoids used to have a little "button" in the center at the bottom of the coil. If you pushed that button "up" into the coil, it would make the contact and close the solenoid. Just wondering if the new one you used is still made that way so you don't need to attach your remote starter button??? About 35 years ago, my son was a senior in high school and was working part time for Roy Brizio. I was picking him up one day. They had rolled all the customer cars inside to close up and one of them was a 40 (if memory serves) Woody with the flattie still in it. The hood was open and I spotted that solenoid and wad curious to see if it had the little button. When I reached in to see, I touched the button. It was super sensitive and it made the contact. Once it made the circuit, it kept the starter going. They had left the car in gear so it was creeping forward towards the car parked in from of it. I was outside the car and about "shit" when it began to move trying to hold it back "Unsuccessfully" !!! Jim Vickery ran over and knocked it out of gear just in time to keep it from running into the car in front. Good thing there was no "shortage" of toilet paper at that time. ;o)
The surprise on Matt’s face when she lit right off was priceless. 👍👍
That is why the world embraced electronic ignition, the hell with points!
I installed a Petronics in my VW Bug. 18-20 yrs ago. The first time I fired it up I noticed it started quicker and idled faster. Peeps on the VW forums warned me they go out all the time and told me to carry points and condenser. I have never had any problems with the Petronics it’s been one of those things you install and never worry about.
Same here and have many friends that say the same. With a mass produced product only the negative usually gets spread around while the people with good experiences just quietly use the item and go on with their lives.
All coils are 6 volt. Some run internal resisters allowing them to be used with a straight 12 volt and some use a external resister. H.A.M.B. called said they wanted their membership card back, said pertronix is not traditional. Pertronix are very good till they leave you sitting on the side of the road.
not petronix but i have had a Hays magna pulse coupled with a Judson electronic magneto coil since 1975 used it on several GM engines never had a fail. the ignition control is the size of a box of kitchen matches
Exactly electronic ignitions work great till all of a sudden they don’t!
yep, nothing like keeping an extra set of points, condenser, and a ballast resistor in the glove box...not much different tbh. im done with points.
A question - if "all coils are 6 volt" - On an original 1939 Ford (for example), running the original engine, ignition system, etc, AND a 6 volt battery - what is the voltage supply to the coil?
I'm a points guy- I have been driving points-equipped cars for almost 50 yrs, and have never had a problem with them-some of my friends have installed solid state ignition systems in their cars, and had failures-maybe due to installation mistakes, but I'll stick with points-thanks for the video-I know it will help others that will be changing over.
57Banjoman also there’s no way to diagnose issues with the electronic ignition, at least not on the sides of the road. With points you can manually open and shut them and watch the coil wire fire.
Hey you guys! Glad to see you're back at it together. Matt, I enjoyed seeing you working on stuff in the past month or so , but having Mike back really ratchets it up a notch for me. Love the sound of the "Y" block, not as cool as a flathead , but better than a small block Chev.
the instant start-up and nice idle is why I have been using the petronics ignition conversion since the 80's. I have even used them on my circle track stock cars. a very affordable and reliable conversion.
I’ve had good luck too!
@@IronTrapGarage yet you seemed so surprised when it fired right up! the only time I get anxious is when I have built a whole new engine with all new parts and I fire it up for the first time.
I really love that 39 and to hear it pop right off like that was very cool,....you've really done that old lady justice!!!!! It also makes me wonder the circumstances that ended her up lost and abandoned in that graveyard?????
We think maybe the Yblock in it might have died but hard to say!
Relocate the coil to the firewall when you do the manifold and carb setup, keep the heat off the coil.
Baby steps are what no one wants to show in a build...but learning this is what people are interested in, because they never did it!
Once we put the new manifold on the coil will be moved. We left the wiring long to place it where ever
Yes baby steps is the way to go. Too often people get in a hurry just so they can get it on the road. I like the fact that Matt made sure the engine would idle before he did anything. That was a smart move. Otherwise if it hadn't worked you would natural assume it was the Pertronics and wind up chasing ghosts. Good call Matt
HOUSTON!!!!!!! WE HAVE IGNITION!!!!!! Sounds really good.
I started putting petronix in my old cars 3 or 4 cars ago (I don't go through cars as much as other people do🙂) and I will never go back!!
The Pertronix kits are great. After I added one to my old car it ran better, was easier to tune and it always runs better, even than when it had new points. I used to tune a lot of old cars for people and I got to the point where I would insist on installing a Pertronix kit before I'd tune their car. I've been running mine for over 20 years and it has never failed. There is a set of points and condenser ( and other parts) under the rear seat of my car but I've never needed them.
That's why we there is a Pertronix kjt in the Coupe as well! Been 3 years with zero issues
Hi Matt I had the same setup in my '48 dodge ute (pilothouse pickup up there) it was running a 272 Y block then, it always started easy after fitting but I kept the points etc in the glove box just in case it failed.I t even improved the gas mileage.... it went from 10 mpg to 11 lol Cheers
Easier starting and better MPG! what a win, even if it was an extra mile! We will probably keep the points in the glove box as well
Baby steps!!!! Used to hear that from an engineer when I worked, and very valuable mindset. You tested it all before you put it together permanently AND pre-tested the engine BEFORE the conversion!!!! KEY steps!!!!!!
Glad we started it before. That fuel filter clog would have had us second guessing our work!!
@@IronTrapGarage yes, it's best to be safe then sorry. Glad you verified before you modified.....I know you are too..
A fun sanity check after installing a Pertronix set is to time the ignition, then shut down the engine and rotate the crank to whatever crank angle you set the timing. Then, pull the cap and confirm the rotor is clocked correctly to the proper plug post on the cap. I put one of these in my late '20s Delco distributor and it was way off. I think they sent me a kit set up for clockwise rotation instead of the counter-clockwise that I needed. I just re-drilled the pickup and to move it and give me proper rotor timing. I put 20k miles on it so far and still works great.
The Coupe has Pertronix for the last 3 years with no issues!!!
It is a Hall Effect pick up system. It does not know what direction it is rotating.
@@midgetrace You are correct. The Hall Effect pick up triggers when the magnetic flux density exceeds the trigger level no matter which direction the magnet approaches the sensor. In the Pertronix ignition, the trigger magnets are in the plastic piece pressed over the distributor breaker cam. So as the cam rotates clockwise the leading edges of the magnets trigger the sensor. If the distributor rotation is reversed to counter-clockwise, the magnets still trigger the sensor, however, the new leading edge of the magnets is now what was the trailing edge in the clockwise direction, so the trigger is at a different distributor angle than when turning clockwise. And, the rotor may not be properly pointing at the desired electrode in the cap, as I experienced in my reversed direction Delco distributor installed in my 1919 Franklin car. But don't believe me. Call Pertronix tech support and tell them you have a CW Pertronix kit that you now want to turn CCW in the same distributor. Ask them if it's cool.
Just love the Pertonics kits. My brother had an Iron Duke motor in one of his cars that kept blowing coils and after we fit the Flame Thrower coil it was all at an end. Because it bolts to the head the heat just destroyed all other coils and AC Delco coils were not sold in South Africa in the early 90's we chose this one. 40 000 volts also sold us on it.
big friggin battery might have had something to do with that sucker spinning over so quick. but pertronix is popular for a good reason it seems. man that car has a great stance. good to see mike making an appearance too!
Nice to see something come together fast and easy for a change.
I had one that was a lazer light that shot thru slots in the cap/rotor..
On my 73 Mustang mach 1 with a 351 Cleveland motor.. Back in like 1992..it was just as easily installed.
I was like good bye points! It ran great. I can't remember the name of the thing.. But it was I guess the older version of that.
Nicely done Matt! I have the M&H Electronic Ignition in my 65 GTO, Works Fantastic, has (ONE WIRE) coming out the Side of the Distributor that LOOKS more Stock. Both are GREAT IGNITION Systems, Mine has been working on my GTO Since 1998.
For ANY older points ignition engine, do yourself and the engine a big favor, fit ''electronic ignition'', engine starts better ( 13m 47s in video ) runs and it will burn the better because of a nice BIG fat spark! Yes i speak from experience!
Small Chev dizzy is at the back, Ford 289/302 etc is at the front.
I’m having so much fun watching this build. Can’t wait to see it running down the road.
I put a pertronix in my jaguar xj6 8 years ago never had any problems, great unit.
The coupe has had one for a few years with zero issues
I did a conversion in a 1960 f350 and it was so easy. My father when young could clean his points in the dark in the winter in 3 feet of snow pointed uphill,lol.
Hahaha
I put one of those on my 57 International cub got tired of condencers and points set the timing the other day it was off a little starts easy the only thing the timing doesn't advance on my 6 volt , great add on to any vintage car or tractor
Had an olds rocket with points and the original 2 barrel which was giving me trouble. Switched to a Holley 2 barrel and pertronix. Night and day difference. Instant crank up.
Love to see progress on this rod!
Thanks guys. Have a good weekend.
Thanks for watching
Awesome progress on the '39. Always nice when something goes as planned !
Love the sound of a y block had a 292 in my 64 f100 great video
I put Pertronix ignitions in my 54 Ferguson tractor and my 80 Cordoba. Great quality parts
i like. just came home from my garage. nice watching you wrench, makes me wanna drive back :D
btw: you´ll need another relais cause the original starter button switches to ground, but the new starter solenoids are plus controlled, so switch the relais with the "starter button ground-control" and plus with the relais for the solenoid. at least that´s what i did!
Had one in my 31 Model A coupe with a banger motor that I ran in TROG 2014 ... must have upgrade
Hey Matt. If you ever decide to use a different carb instead of the teapot you will need to change the distributor to a 57 or later (or mallory, etc) as these older "loadamatic" vacuum advances doesn't work well with a non- stock carb. All 49-56 ford products use this setup where the vacuum advance is paired with the carb. Just a bit of info.
Hmm we will have to look into it. Thanks for the info!!
Was just going to mention that myself
Wow that ignition conversion works good, glad to see you didn't forget about the '39,that's my favorite build
I literally just did the opposite of what you did I bought an aftermarket HEI distributor small scale distributor and what a piece of junk, so I replaced it with my old accel dual point Needle bearing distributor that I've been using since 1973 But added MSD 6AL Box to it, and it fired up like you just did, fast and easy
If all else fails read the instructions. That started quickly. Ya hoo. It makes you want to drive it.
Since that was a six volt set up if it’s a 6 volt starter that is probably why it spun over so easily. I have a Willy’s Jeep as you can see in my profile pic that I switched over to 12 volt but have never done the started. I’m told it’ll eventually burn up but as long as you are not hammering on it it will last. Mines been going strong since 2013. Glad this worked so smooth for ya. Keep up the vids really do enjoy and look forward to them. Oh and by the way when Mike asked about the screwdriver I was rolling on that one!
We only use original flathead starters on the coupe and free t. Never had any issues here!!
IronTrap Garage Hey Great!👍
Love it when a plan comes together...Good job..
I think you are making a great decision to change out that carburetor. First, I think it might have a nick name of "the towering inferno" LOL, if my memory is correct. Plus three carbs are just cool.
Haha yea we’ve heard the horror stories!
Great video, the old girl sounds great, she will be a blast to drive. Cheers
Slowly, slowly getting there!
Hi guys, first of all happy workers' day, excellent reform in the distributor, super simple and very effective, and Matt's astonished face certifies I send you a hug from Argentina
We never have anything fire right off like that. Hardly ever!!
3-97's should be just right. Progressive linkage also perfect. After all it's a Y-block with a glass driveline. You're doing just the right stuff to make it fun yet streetable. I would be searching for one of those Under-Dash Record players to complete the effect.
Thanks Chuck! Ha one of those record players would be wild!
hello guys, fantastic job, this type of ignition system upgrade works very well, I mounted a Dynatek on a Moto Guzzi V35 and there were no more ignition problems due to humidity, the wear of the points etc ....
Have a Nice Weekend!
It does remove the maintenance of a points system!
Super helpful as this is something im doing with my 47 Dodge. So the wiring video was a huge help as well. Thank you for awesome content and just got myself a shirt ordered.
Yes matt patronics are brilliant got them in all my old stuff 👍👍
The Pagoda Coupe has it as well but we never installed it! Crazy easy
Congrats on your win, it started up fast and easy.
Man that car really has a gangster/ol moonshiner look to it i love it! ❤
This video is perfect timing Matt. I just start planning the rewiring of my 51 Shoebox, and the pertronix for my flathead was on the list. Thanks for another great and helpful video.
Pertronix is the best!!!
its called an hall affect sensor very similar to what is used in LT1 optispark distributors
Hal effect or Electrical do-dad as we like to call it
Three things:
1. That firewall green color is about identical to the factory color my 40 pickup was
2. You may have helped me to decide on a pertronix for my flathead, mine starts that easy with points now, but no maintenance is a win
3. Are you going to lose the cowl radio antenna, and put one back on the roof above the windshield peak? They look way cooler up there!
Yea antenna is hopefully going back up top! We’ll just plug the cowl hole!
Thanks Matt! Good to have some entertainment during the lock down.
Every one of those two piece Pertronix I have installed has failed. I used a few of the single piece where you have to pull the shaft out to install them and they have been flawless. I guess that's why the two piece style are easy to install?
Nice little job keep up the awesome work take care and stay safe see ya in the next one
Great story , thanks for sharing truck is looking great,!
Love that you guys are building that 39 for me😂😂😂😂😎
Awesome great progress ,maybe put a little paint on this firewall also.
Awesome Outta sight that thing sounds beautiful great👍👍👍👏👏
Ah the easy button nice!!!
When you said in a previous video that you were keeping the original distributor, I said out loud to the TV " I'd put a Pertronix kit in it!". 😂
We must have heard ya! Haha
@@IronTrapGarage 😂👍
Love the 39 that car going to be killer when it's done
The technical term for "point stuff" is "distributor guts".
Most Fords are wired to start on 12v and then run thru the resistor. If you have a 4 post solenoid one of the small ones provides 12v on start.
This engine was 6v orginially
Keep the points stuff in the car with youu but with a 12 volt condenser
That way you can swap it out if the Pertronix craps out on a road trip. I helped a guy with a VW Beetle do this in a hotel parking lot. The issue is parts stores don’t carry Pertronix parts but most have points still.
Good idea!
Very interesting guys, why don't you grind the rust off?
Hella Nice Matt, kachink .. klalunk.. solenoids doing its thing and boom!! Bam.. it fires right up, freakin nice man. AWESOME
Super surprised! Haha
@@IronTrapGarage yeah I saw that!! Ran freaking nice too, used those on Triumph motorcycle and few others like BSA they work good just have to control the auto advance.
3 97's with a progressive linkage set up would work great .
Hell yeah
Nice job 👍
Felicitaciones por tu trabajo saludos cordiales desde Argentina
That's going to be a sweet hot rod. Great job
Cool. But I don't see the problem with points. Really need to tidy up the cutting on the firewall where they made room for the engine. Looks really rough.
A ballest resistor drops the voltage from 12 to 9 v. Dosn't overheat the coil....
Great job and video guys 👍👍🇨🇱
No little plastic feeler gauge to set the gap? I’ve used Pertronix on a couple cars now, I’ve always had good luck with them, they work great. Awesome as usual!
This one didn’t have it surprisingly!
I doubt that you will do it but, I would love to see the ‘39 painted the green that is on the firewall (original color). With the three duce intake and the electronic ignition, that engine should run far better than a stocker.
She should run great! We plan to keep the exterior as is for now. "Embrace the Shittyness" as Matt would say
Using a ballast resistor on the Coil is fine but just make sure you are not pulling the hot line to the magnetic pickup after the ballast. The magnetic pickup needs a full 12V or it will burn out quick. So get the full 12V before the ballast resistor (in other words don't connect it to the hot side of the coil but to the full 12V side of the ballast resistor)
Yup that's how we have it connected. The Pertronix instructions has a full wiring diagram to show this
Good job !
I put a similar system in a 318 marine motor 20+/- years ago. Eliminated the bi-weekly points maintenance. At the time it was about $60. Worth every penny.
Points will be still running when a EMP goes off. Best to leave be points. Its just what I think is all. It started really easy though.
We will keeping the points in the glove box
I know hot rods are supposed to be black but I kinda like the blue/green on the firewall, its too bad it got repainted you dont see alot of fat fender fords that color. Congrats on getting it running!
Yeah it would have been cool to see the orginial color!
I don't like v8's in flat head cars but that one SOUNDS great.
They make a little tool for installing those little screws, sure makes the job lots easier I keep one in each toolbox.
Holding screwdrivers are the best I use em at work all the time! -Mike
@@IronTrapGarage I've got some of those too and work good.
Another outstanding video. Thanks for taking the time to teach and for the entertainment as well.
Not much teaching here haha just sharing updates!
@@IronTrapGarage Believe it or not. I was not familiar with that pertronix setup, so actually I learned quite a bit. Thanks
"HOLY SHIT" I LOVE THAT CAR!! .....THE FIREWALL NEEDS SOME RUST TREATMENT FELLAS!!
hello to you an everyone here today stay safe by your way
hi Matt that ol y block sounds great it be a big improvement over the std side valve v8 s 85hp ?? what sort of hp does the y block ?? great idea to get rid of the old points set up the 39 will make a great realible cruiser its come along way since you dragged it out of that swamp regards Chris S NSW Australia
do you know for sure you have the correct distributor? not the load a matic if your going to change the carb. i bought a new distributor at napa for a 60's truck.
You guys !! Sounds soooo' good !! Ha !! Take THAT .. Hot Rod Gods !!
Haha thanks!
Is that Ray Romano helping Matt?
Great to again see GENUINE work from your shop. We're all chuffed when stuff works, as you were.
(Why can't the networks see this is so much better than all their staged stuff).
P.S. Can't you hide that ballast resistor? Old but clean and simple?
If the car didnt have a good we would. The coil and resistor are hidden on the Pagoda City Coupe. Networks seek entertainment, they think drama is entertaining
Love it as always
My favorite project! You're gettin close. I was wondering if you were going to update the ignition. Those weren't the most performance minded distributors but they did get the job done and it has the tach drive. Can't wait for the next installment.
The tach drive is killer and works perfectly with our Stewart Warner gauges!!
@@IronTrapGarage The look on your face when it started was priceless, lol. I forgot what it felt like when you finish a project and it worked better than expected.
I'm pretty sure that distributor has no mechanical advance. It uses a venturi vacuum signal from the carburetor to advance the timing with rpm. Your vacuum advance should have two vacuum lines going to it. If you change out carburetors, you need to figure out how to get a venturi signal to the distributor. Ford used this until 57 when they added centrifugal advance to the distributor. The 57 T-Bird distributor has a tach drive, but they are scarce as hen's teeth.
I like your videos but what I want to know is how can I find just one vehicle sitting around like you seem to find?
Never stop looking. We spend alot of time searching and networking with older hot rodders in the area.
Matt have you ever used an electronic conversation on a flat head... I've got a 49 and am thinking about changing it
The Pagoda City Coupe has Pertronix in the stock distributor. Works great!!!
keiththecarguy1967 I have pertronix in a GM mechanical advance distributor in my 8BA flathead. Distributor is from bubbasignition.com
Got one in my 52 Merc. Works great!
@@IowaMercMan bubba is closeing shop tho. Also a question for whoever. If iam running an 8ba in my 49 with a 6 volt stock system and thinking about going Petronix do i need a ballast resistor ? or would the drop be too much.
Loving the progress!
What's the story on the huge hole in the firewall? I remember you fixing the battery box, but is the hole going to be repaired? TY Newk from Kentucky
We did a video making a removable panel!!
Were you using that very long screwdriver to keep social distance between you and the distributor?
Trying our best to keep our distance!!
@@IronTrapGarage Some long screw drivers are made for people who like to get away from their work .
Nice !!! Only one question: The ballast resistor knocks 12 Volts down to 6 or 9 volts (don't remember). When you use a coil that already has the "built in" resistance to do that and you add a ballast resistor, what voltage do you end up with at the module/coil??? You might want to run that by Pertronics???
Those old (in the day) Ford Solenoids used to have a little "button" in the center at the bottom of the coil. If you pushed that button "up" into the coil, it would make the contact and close the solenoid. Just wondering if the new one you used is still made that way so you don't need to attach your remote starter button???
About 35 years ago, my son was a senior in high school and was working part time for Roy Brizio. I was picking him up one day. They had rolled all the customer cars inside to close up and one of them was a 40 (if memory serves) Woody with the flattie still in it. The hood was open and I spotted that solenoid and wad curious to see if it had the little button. When I reached in to see, I touched the button. It was super sensitive and it made the contact. Once it made the circuit, it kept the starter going. They had left the car in gear so it was creeping forward towards the car parked in from of it. I was outside the car and about "shit" when it began to move trying to hold it back "Unsuccessfully" !!! Jim Vickery ran over and knocked it out of gear just in time to keep it from running into the car in front. Good thing there was no "shortage" of toilet paper at that time. ;o)
Holy crap that would have made me crap my pants! This new one does not have that button on it.
@@IronTrapGarage
Came close!! Very embarrassing too !!
Put one in the studebaker motor, what a difference it made. i will say its easier to do with dist out of the car lol
Doing this swap would have been a cake walk out of the car. This thing is shoved through the firewall.