Great video! Have you considered using large format lenses (e.g. Super Angulon 90mm f/8) with the Cambo Actus? It would seem that these excellent lenses would be useful.
For Aperture control on Mamiya RZ lenses you can put it on T mode then release shutter from rear of lens moving the knobs then mount it. I use Mamiya lenses on sinar F2 with a custom made adaptor with external shutter knob where i can utilise it's sekor shutter and sync flash at 1/400 th with it .
I have the Cambo Actus Mini, & I use it with a Sony A7rIII camera, with Schneider Apo Digitar & Pentax 645 & 67 lenses. The camera is usable handheld & with the Sony, I have the benefit of inbody IS.
Really would love to see a comparison with other large format monorails, like the Linhof M679 or Sinar P3, which these days can be bought used for less than the Cambo. Thanks.
There is a way to adapt the rear standard of a Sinar P to a DSLR, and all you need then is a bellows with the right bayonet for the DSLR (available on ebay). There are solutions which fit the camera to a lens plate on the back standard, using standard bellows, but that creates problems with lens-to-sensor distance, so a direct attachment to the bellows is best. I have adapted an old Horseman L45 to my Nikon D800 by removing the rear frame and fitting an Arca plate that holds the D800 via an L-bracket. The Sinar bellows fit the Horseman, so that’s a cheap way to get to try this out. It works very well and has full, lockable tilts, swings and shifts both front and rear. It’s a bit bigger than the Cambo (and even more so if you use a Sinar P), but this is a camera that belongs in the studio on a big stand, so that’s not really an issue. Medium format lenses of virtually all makes are plentiful and relatively cheap on ebay, and I fit lenses to my digital view camera by nicking a bayonet off a second-hand extension ring (ebay again) and fitting that to a plain lens board. I don’t agree with Scott that these lenses are better than good DSLR lenses, but they do allow you to use all the view camera features, which 35mm lenses with their small image circles wouldn’t. UPDATE TO THAT LAST COMMENT: I now have two Mamiya lenses (65 & 140mm) with floating elements, and they are better at close distances than the fixed-element lenses I used earlier. What I haven't tried are Mamiya's ultra-low-dispersion (ULD) lenses - they're twice the price on ebay, but may be worth it.
I use the same system with my RB 67 lenses, I found Hartblei DoF preview lever so you can lock and change the aperture without issues. I use my Sony R4 and GFX camera bodies, amazing lenses.
Hey there! I have RZ lens and there is actually a way to set the aperture without having to use gaffer tape. You need to screw a cable release into the lens, set the lens to "T" then before you mount the camera to the Cambo, there is a little silver button that you can push in and simultaneously you can push the two levers on the rear of the lens to the green dot. From there you can use the cable release to trigger the lens to be basically "on" and then you can unscrew the cable release and use the aperture ring as intended. Voila, no need for gaffer tape. Thanks for making the video, I've been looking at getting a Cambo Actus. I would love to see another video about focusing. Cheers!
Very late, but you don't even need the cable release. Just put it to T and push the small silver button on the back on the lens while uncocking the shutter. Release the button before the pins are near the end and it's done. The lens will stay open and uncocked.
You’ve definitely piqued my interest with this type of system. I’m looking forward to your future videos talking about it. Thanks for putting videos like this out for those of us who are just getting into your world. You’ve really help take the fear out of my future career in photography. Cheers
you mention that you get slightly varying exposures because the aperture closes not always exactly same... interesting point which I never realized in my kind of photography. Anyway: in case you are not aware of it, there is a feature in LR Classic which might help you. The shortcut is ctrl+alt+Shift+M or Photo--> development (the lowest one in the list, I just know the exact term in German)--> match exposure. Probably this will also balance these small inconsistencies...
What about the focusing procedure with the front tilt movement ? My experience with front tilt is not positive: after tilting the lens, a refocus is needed, than another front-tilt is needed and another refocus, and then the loop continues. For closeups this loop is not converging and it's needed an algorithm for guessing the correct tilt direction. I found instead the the back movements are much more efficient and when they are yaw-free they allow a sort of "auto-focus" for view cameras (only 2 steps, not loop required)
one other tip, if you are going for the extra dof, why not try a 'press camera' like the linhof, or a toyo, in 4x5" this gives you all the movements, but a bonus is yet to be found, you can add a phase one / leaf, or any other brand of digital back to these, with an adaptor plate, of coarse, but this gives all the advantages of movements, and a digital workflow, but with a larger sensor size, and for less money than a hasselblad/phase one off the shelf camera solution, sure the back costs, but the body can be had for only a few thousand, not the 50 or 60 thou that the others would cost.
Hi Scott. Great videos. Just a quick question… what’s the Cambo kit you bought for your canon? I’ve got an sr so should be the same. As others have said the link sends you to a page with multiple options. Thanks in advance. Really love your videos.
Hi Scott, great review. I'm a product photographer and focus stacking is definitely time consuming! Which Cambo Actus model did you get? Having a read online about it from the link in the description and there are multiple systems for it. Cheers.
5dsr has been a workhorse for me for years. unreal how much value I get out of even today after all these years. It's probably worth $500 if I tried to sell it on ebay . heroic camera. now I have a gfx 100 but all respect to that body. some of my best work is with that bad little baby.
Hi scott, Interesting video. We have been looking into reviewing the Novoflex TS system on LensVid for food/product work that we do commercially. Have you ever used it?
Cool. I have an old 4x5 cambo for a few years, até the time i got an adapter to use a Canon camera as a Digital back, but I never got a jhce lens, só iended not using it, afer I saw your first vídeo of your cambo System I bought a mamya 50mm, and ive been working on converting the 4x5 cambo, i had e few strugles but I think that Im already at the end of the convertion. If it goes well I shoud have a similar systemfor less then 600€ including the lens, and with tilt, shif up and down movements on the lens and on the cam. I just cant watt to test it. Thank you
would a larger bellows allow for more movement?. I know it seems rather silly for me to mention this since I'm sure you've considered it. I was just curious.
The X-Act, P3 and 679 are all nice gear, but versions for use with Mirrorless and Dslr cameras have never been made. Probably with the exception of a Sinar P3 version for use with the Leica-S, introduced shortly after Sinar had been bought by Leica. You may adapt any view camera for use with a Dslr or mirrorless by changing the Graflock back for a device with a bayonet. Fujifilm offers an accessory like that to attach a GFX to a 4x5 camera. However, lens choice will be limited, because the sensor can't get as close to the lens mount as you can achieve with a purpose-built view camera.
These systems are really intriguing. I've been down the technical camera rabbit hole lately, I came across the Actar lenses for the system. Did you try out any of them?
will like to get it , i have 2 mamya rz 67 with 2 backs and 2 lents , that are collecting dust ,and they are wery good but at the moment that thing cost 2000euro are they joking !! will try to diy it in some way , if i will find a mamiya mount , or if i find a broke mamya body , has alredy a below , just need a nikon 10euro extention tube ,
Thank you for these videos, I have been been tempted by this camera for a while now. It’s the light leak on long exposures that put me of. However I would in best in the camera for my product work. The lens situation is another stumbling block for me. How do you find the mamiya lenses and where did you find them? also would you consider hassleblad lenses? Cheers
Just say that you're using the high quality center of the lens projection where usually the CA is virtually nonexistent. Just nevermind when you're tilting/shifting to the len's extremes. Same for vignetting. And definition.
I’d be all over this system if I could mount a digital back instead of a 35mm camera! I love my RZ, I’d love for more than just two of my lenses to have the options of movements.
There actually is a DB version which accepts digital backs. And the Actus-G is the most versatile variety: can be used for mirrorless, dslr and digital backs.
thanks for this video. i’m thinking now to use Cambo soon…!
Would love to see your comments on the MV and how it compares to this!
Great video! Have you considered using large format lenses (e.g. Super Angulon 90mm f/8) with the Cambo Actus? It would seem that these excellent lenses would be useful.
For Aperture control on Mamiya RZ lenses you can put it on T mode then release shutter from rear of lens moving the knobs then mount it.
I use Mamiya lenses on sinar F2 with a custom made adaptor with external shutter knob where i can utilise it's sekor shutter and sync flash at 1/400 th with it .
I have the Cambo Actus Mini, & I use it with a Sony A7rIII camera, with Schneider Apo Digitar & Pentax 645 & 67 lenses. The camera is usable handheld & with the Sony, I have the benefit of inbody IS.
Really would love to see a comparison with other large format monorails, like the
Linhof M679 or Sinar P3, which these days can be bought used for less than the Cambo. Thanks.
I have a sinar somewhere, I think I’ve let someone borrow it but not sure who. Once I find it I’ll give it a go.
There is a way to adapt the rear standard of a Sinar P to a DSLR, and all you need then is a bellows with the right bayonet for the DSLR (available on ebay). There are solutions which fit the camera to a lens plate on the back standard, using standard bellows, but that creates problems with lens-to-sensor distance, so a direct attachment to the bellows is best.
I have adapted an old Horseman L45 to my Nikon D800 by removing the rear frame and fitting an Arca plate that holds the D800 via an L-bracket. The Sinar bellows fit the Horseman, so that’s a cheap way to get to try this out. It works very well and has full, lockable tilts, swings and shifts both front and rear. It’s a bit bigger than the Cambo (and even more so if you use a Sinar P), but this is a camera that belongs in the studio on a big stand, so that’s not really an issue.
Medium format lenses of virtually all makes are plentiful and relatively cheap on ebay, and I fit lenses to my digital view camera by nicking a bayonet off a second-hand extension ring (ebay again) and fitting that to a plain lens board. I don’t agree with Scott that these lenses are better than good DSLR lenses, but they do allow you to use all the view camera features, which 35mm lenses with their small image circles wouldn’t.
UPDATE TO THAT LAST COMMENT: I now have two Mamiya lenses (65 & 140mm) with floating elements, and they are better at close distances than the fixed-element lenses I used earlier. What I haven't tried are Mamiya's ultra-low-dispersion (ULD) lenses - they're twice the price on ebay, but may be worth it.
I use the same system with my RB 67 lenses, I found Hartblei DoF preview lever so you can lock and change the aperture without issues. I use my Sony R4 and GFX camera bodies, amazing lenses.
Hey there! I have RZ lens and there is actually a way to set the aperture without having to use gaffer tape. You need to screw a cable release into the lens, set the lens to "T" then before you mount the camera to the Cambo, there is a little silver button that you can push in and simultaneously you can push the two levers on the rear of the lens to the green dot. From there you can use the cable release to trigger the lens to be basically "on" and then you can unscrew the cable release and use the aperture ring as intended. Voila, no need for gaffer tape.
Thanks for making the video, I've been looking at getting a Cambo Actus. I would love to see another video about focusing. Cheers!
THANKS!!! Going to go do this now
Very late, but you don't even need the cable release. Just put it to T and push the small silver button on the back on the lens while uncocking the shutter. Release the button before the pins are near the end and it's done. The lens will stay open and uncocked.
Could you do a comparison between your Actus and Swebo like TC18? I wonder how Swebo stacks up. Thanks.
You’ve definitely piqued my interest with this type of system. I’m looking forward to your future videos talking about it. Thanks for putting videos like this out for those of us who are just getting into your world. You’ve really help take the fear out of my future career in photography. Cheers
you mention that you get slightly varying exposures because the aperture closes not always exactly same... interesting point which I never realized in my kind of photography.
Anyway: in case you are not aware of it, there is a feature in LR Classic which might help you. The shortcut is ctrl+alt+Shift+M or Photo--> development (the lowest one in the list, I just know the exact term in German)--> match exposure. Probably this will also balance these small inconsistencies...
What about the focusing procedure with the front tilt movement ? My experience with front tilt is not positive: after tilting the lens, a refocus is needed, than another front-tilt is needed and another refocus, and then the loop continues. For closeups this loop is not converging and it's needed an algorithm for guessing the correct tilt direction. I found instead the the back movements are much more efficient and when they are yaw-free they allow a sort of "auto-focus" for view cameras (only 2 steps, not loop required)
one other tip, if you are going for the extra dof, why not try a 'press camera' like the linhof, or a toyo, in 4x5" this gives you all the movements, but a bonus is yet to be found, you can add a phase one / leaf, or any other brand of digital back to these, with an adaptor plate, of coarse, but this gives all the advantages of movements, and a digital workflow, but with a larger sensor size, and for less money than a hasselblad/phase one off the shelf camera solution, sure the back costs, but the body can be had for only a few thousand, not the 50 or 60 thou that the others would cost.
Hi Scott. Great videos.
Just a quick question… what’s the Cambo kit you bought for your canon? I’ve got an sr so should be the same.
As others have said the link sends you to a page with multiple options.
Thanks in advance.
Really love your videos.
Hi Scott, was wondering, how is this system compared to the Novoflex system? Any thoughts?
Have you tried the actar lenses? If so, how did you like them?
Sensible system. I’m sure it will work out for you. Being able to build this out is interesting.
Hi Scott, great review. I'm a product photographer and focus stacking is definitely time consuming! Which Cambo Actus model did you get? Having a read online about it from the link in the description and there are multiple systems for it. Cheers.
5dsr has been a workhorse for me for years. unreal how much value I get out of even today after all these years. It's probably worth $500 if I tried to sell it on ebay . heroic camera. now I have a gfx 100 but all respect to that body. some of my best work is with that bad little baby.
Hi scott, Interesting video. We have been looking into reviewing the Novoflex TS system on LensVid for food/product work that we do commercially. Have you ever used it?
Cool.
I have an old 4x5 cambo for a few years, até the time i got an adapter to use a Canon camera as a Digital back, but I never got a jhce lens, só iended not using it, afer I saw your first vídeo of your cambo System I bought a mamya 50mm, and ive been working on converting the 4x5 cambo, i had e few strugles but I think that Im already at the end of the convertion.
If it goes well I shoud have a similar systemfor less then 600€ including the lens, and with tilt, shif up and down movements on the lens and on the cam.
I just cant watt to test it.
Thank you
would a larger bellows allow for more movement?. I know it seems rather silly for me to mention this since I'm sure you've considered it. I was just curious.
to a point, but you would need a lens that can draw a big enough image circle too.
@@TinHouseStudioUK I thought perhaps the lens you currently use would do that. Got it. Thanks
It is worth to consider also the Rollei x-act 2. More movements and you can find it cheaper on eBay.
The X-Act, P3 and 679 are all nice gear, but versions for use with Mirrorless and Dslr cameras have never been made. Probably with the exception of a Sinar P3 version for use with the Leica-S, introduced shortly after Sinar had been bought by Leica.
You may adapt any view camera for use with a Dslr or mirrorless by changing the Graflock back for a device with a bayonet. Fujifilm offers an accessory like that to attach a GFX to a 4x5 camera. However, lens choice will be limited, because the sensor can't get as close to the lens mount as you can achieve with a purpose-built view camera.
Great video very usefull informations
Hi, Scott you said it's just over a grant but when I checked it seems to be more like 2-3 grand. Did I overlook something? Thanks
I buy everything second hand haha. Prob should have mentioned that!
@@TinHouseStudioUK you must have been very lucky ;). I didn't find anything interesting on ebay
These systems are really intriguing. I've been down the technical camera rabbit hole lately, I came across the Actar lenses for the system. Did you try out any of them?
How close can you focus with this system?
Pretty much touching the glass
will like to get it , i have 2 mamya rz 67 with 2 backs and 2 lents , that are collecting dust ,and they are wery good but at the moment that thing cost 2000euro are they joking !! will try to diy it in some way , if i will find a mamiya mount , or if i find a broke mamya body , has alredy a below , just need a nikon 10euro extention tube ,
If you do try it hand-held, please do video that. I really want to watch that :D
Thank you for these videos, I have been been tempted by this camera for a while now. It’s the light leak on long exposures that put me of. However I would in best in the camera for my product work. The lens situation is another stumbling block for me. How do you find the mamiya lenses and where did you find them? also would you consider hassleblad lenses? Cheers
Just say that you're using the high quality center of the lens projection where usually the CA is virtually nonexistent. Just nevermind when you're tilting/shifting to the len's extremes. Same for vignetting. And definition.
Forgive my ignorance but isn't that basically a tilt shift lens? What is the difference. It looks similar.
It is, and he does mention that he sold his Canon TS lenses because any lens that he puts on the objective end becomes a TSS lens.
I just bought the RF 100mm macro for my R5, and you have me wanting this realllllll bad… RIP money 🤣
My digital workflow and post production workshop is now live www.tinhouse-studio.com/product/digital-workflow-colour-grading-and-backing-up/
Today it's not 1000 but 3000 for the body how time changes
I’d be all over this system if I could mount a digital back instead of a 35mm camera! I love my RZ, I’d love for more than just two of my lenses to have the options of movements.
Actually you can.
There actually is a DB version which accepts digital backs. And the Actus-G is the most versatile variety: can be used for mirrorless, dslr and digital backs.
It's hard to visualize what you are saying, without any images to see what this camera does.