If the oil filter is on top of the engine (most German cars) then the car was designed to use an oil extractor and it will extract nearly all of the oil. If you tip the car towards the side of the car where the dipstick is located you can get a little more.
So glad I saw this video. I thought I was going mad because I only extracted 5L from my BMW 635d after an hour of pumping! So I drained it through the sump plug and recovered another 3L! Looking at the size and shape of my oil sump and where the dipstick enters it makes sense that the tube never gets near the bottom. Be warned.
From a mechanic, use a more Rigid hose and feel for the bottom of the pan if you want to extract it once it starts making slurping noises feel around the bottom of the pan with the hose, but extracting it is only really worth it if the filter is on top
@@maxitan2798 on some engines, 3.6 l V6 from FiatChrysler, Subaru's newer boxer engines most Mercedes and Audis engines You can see the oil filter on top on the Chrysler V6 it's right under the intake in the valley on the Subarus it's right in front of the driver's side cylinder Bank you can reach them just by opening the hood
@@maxitan2798 To expand some more, if the oil filter is on the bottom of the car anyway, you might as well use a drain pan since you're lifting and getting under the car. Oil extractors save time if everything can be done from just under the hood.
I have a 2014 MB E350 and I use an evacuator. This car takes about 7.5 Liters. That is about how much the evacuator removed. I pulled the plug and about 100 ML drained out. Even if you do the drain plug method, or evacuator, it is good to add about a 1/2 quart of clean oil to flush it out. This can be cheaper, but, new oil to use for flushing the remnant of the oil pan. If you look at the design of the oil pan, even pulling the plug will not drain all of the oil as there is an indentation to add the drain plug to the pan. Also, if you warm up the engine first, most of the sediment is 'stirred' up enough where you will get most of it in either method. Basically, it depends on the design of the oil pan, and can the tube reach the bottom of the oil pan for success.
@@paulanthony4089 I am old enough to remember when that was a common practice. We used anything from oil + Kerosene, oil + Transmission Fluid and some flushing products which were often about the same as the first 2 mentioned. But our engines were dirty, sludgy and some didn't even have, pcv valves or oil filters. Carbon deposits were thick from carburetors, often poorly setup and the usage of cold weather chokes. Oils were nowhere near as good as today's products and you seriously had to change the oil every 2-3k miles. Consider a new car which has all kinds of tiny bits of mechanisms in overhead cam engines, variable valve timing components, hydraulic cam chain tensioners etc. This becomes problematic when you attempt to break loose deposits which may become lodged in any of the tiny orifices feeding these mechanisms and inside the components themselves. Unless you have an engine which has been abused with poor or no maintenance, or grossly overheated and the oil burned inside the engine you will never need to use any kind of flushing media before changing the oil. At most, and this has happened to me, if you have really gone over the factory recommended interval, just change the oil as normal, perhaps with the lightest grade the manufacturer allows, and then change it again in about 500 to 1000 miles. Examine the removed oil for contaminants and even then I'll bet you find nothing of concern. So I don't think any kind of aggressive flushing media is needed or wise in modern engines.
@@OldTooly Thanks for the feedback. yeah, I figured flushing would have been a bad idea. I bought a 7L pump on ebay for $40 it worked great with no additional additive.
Just used the extractor to change the oil on my Jaguar XF 3.0D. Exact 6.6 liter out. 6.6 liter in . No problem at all. Jaguar dealer use extractor too.
It works on some cars and many dealers use them. Doesn't work on all though. Didn't work on this car or my VX220. But seemed to work on the EA888 engine.
@@ConquerDriving yes, depending on engine design. Some engines you can get all the way down to the bottom of oil pan through dip stick tube, other engines just can’t be done.
I just used a small vacuum pump for my motorcycle since the oil plug is really inconvenient to access. That was such a clean and convenient oil change. I still got my 2.4L out, as the manufacturer stated. I think it depends on the oil pan design. Some are necessary to empty via the drain plug, some actually drain more thru the dip stick tube
@@ConquerDriving absolutely Afaik, the old mercedes OM series diesel engines(the million mile engines) had so much sludge and gunk buildup from engine oil changes via drain plug, they told every certified mechanic to use an oil extractor
I agree. With an extractor you're leaving the worst sludge, metal particles and other contaminants stuck in the bottom of the oil pan because that's where they sink when the engine is turned off. The fresh oil is just diluting all those contaminants so they can be re-circulated in your nice new oil and back into the engine. Older cars have more engine wear so the older they are the more you need to remove all of the contaminants. You're trading efficiency for speed and convenience. That could come back to bite you in your bumper.
@@1notgilty that's why oil filters exist, any contaminants that actually *circulate* will be filtered. Logically, you won't need to worry about the "sludge lying in the bottom", which btw will be diluted.
@@madsantos Or, you could just remove the drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan and get rid of all that sludge and particles without recirculating it through the engine and clogging up the new oil filter like the engineers who designed the engine intended. They're doing it bass ackwards.
It depends on the engine tank of each car, and also the inlet tube size. For most European cars, extracting oil works well. But yet to see other car models. Also the inlet tube size matters as big size prevents you from reaching bottom of a tank, while smaller size reaches bottom, but may effect extracting speed. Also someone actually studied some Bens-Mercedes engine tank, and found that extracting oil pulls more oil than traditional plug-drain method, as the plug locates above the bottom, and cannot drain some good size of oil, while the inlet tube can reach bottom, and thus extracts more oil. Hope more people can show how the extracting method works on Japanese models.
Tip 1: wait 5 minutes after extraction, then do a 2nd pass. Should get all the remaining oil that way. Tip 2: be sure to insert the hose down as far as possible, then move up/down and check again. Mark the hose so you know how far to insert the next time.
I spent a long time trying to get all the oil and moved the tube a lot. It doesn't work on this car or my old VX220. It works on some though like the EA888.
First of all you should have done that after letting the engine run for 3-5 min so it is more fluid. Second of all, you're attitude tells us everything we need to know that u are doing pretty sure a bias work. With all due respect
this is assuming your dipstick has no obstruction below its lowest point. keep in mind the dipstick is not designed to measure if your oil is empty, but to measure if you have sufficient oil. in otherwords, it measures the absolutely min acceptable and absolutely max amount of oil and therefore doesnt require reaching down all the way to the bottom of your oil pan to get every last drop of oil and metal shavings.
Thanx. Very informative. I have always been changing oil by the old school “ drain plug” method but recently bought an extraction pump from Lidl - an impulse buy . I think after watching your video I will do both methods together 😎👍👍👍
Fun fact. We own a diesel SmartCar, which doesnt have a drain plug and never has. You are suppose to take them to Mercedes (who own Smart) and they use an electric extractor (basically just like this extractor, but you dont have to pump it manually). So on some vehicles it's a must. It's not about which is better. There's a time and a place for both methods. As someone stated in the comments below. Some cars have raised sump plugs, which don't allow all the oil to come out anyway. An extractor would actually remove more oil than the plug. I'd also like to add. I use one a lot on machinery. For example commercial mowers, they aren't designed like cars, and engines and such are often in awkward locations. So instead of a drain plugs, they come with brass taps and other arrangements, which seize up or fail after a year or two, and cannot be removed. Plus you carry out the oil changes so regularly on machinery, I don't lose sleep over getting every last drop, an oil change is better than no oil change. There is no 'best way'. They best way is to make sure the oil change gets done full stop. I would use a drain plug if perfectly possible, but an extractor is another useful tool in the tool box.
In some cars the extractor method doesn't work, I've tried various cars but given how bad it is on the 1.4TSI it should not be the standard oil change method for a garage.
well done, I always knew the lazy way was the wrong way , also the magnetic plug shows you any trouble you might have, finally heat up the copper washer to red hot to anneal it and save yourself a few quid......
Depends on the model and technique. There may be some sumps with lower areas then what the extractor tube can reach. On both my current vehicle and previous vehicle the extractor removed as many litres of oil as is specified as the sump capacity in the vehicle specs. Good enough for me. You have to warm the engine first, and when you have drained the sump, wait another ten minutes for any oil that was elsewhere in the works to settle, then suck out some more.
Agreed, it works well on an EA888 engine but it should not be used be garages as unless they have tested each car they don't know if it's getting all the oil.
@@ConquerDriving agreed, I would be suspicious of a garage that uses them, if they are underneath changing the filter, why bother? I can see it being useful for quick interim oil changes though on big capacity engines where 2-300 ml of 6 month old oil won't cause much harm.
I did little test with my Mercedes M273 engine. Drained through oil drain plug, then put the extractor in to see if it can suck out something, and it did suck out probably couple table spoon worth of oil.
I use it for oil changes "between" full oil changes. It's quicker and much easier than lifting the car, removing the drain bolt, drain, remove filter, drain, install new filter, insert drain bolt, fill. The evaluator for every second oil change makes life easier.
I bought an oil extractor, used it once, and put it away. Like you I found that I couldn't get all the oil out. The other problem - I still had to get under the car to remove the oil filter which pretty much defeated the purpose of getting it in the first place
1 =USE RIGID PIE, 2 =MAKE SURE OIL IS HOT AS POSS, 3 =JACK FRONT OF CAR ON ONE SIDE SO TO TILT THE ENGINE OVER FOR BEST REULTS, 4 =WHEN U HEAR SLURPING NOISES WHEN ALMOST DONE PUSH PIPE TO BOTTOM OF SUMP MORE, 5 =EVERY 3RD OIL CHANGE DO IT WITH THE SUMP PLUG METHOD, THIS PUMP IS GOOD FOR DOING MORE REGULAR CHANGES, BUT EVERY NOW AND THEN DO THE CORRECT WAY.
It seems that it would help if towards the end (when you start hearing sucking noises), you close the oil cap tightly and try to cover tightly the top of the oil dipstick pipe where the plastic pipe goes in to avoid air going in and the vacuum can lift any remaining oil. You may want to try that and let us know.
Great video, thanks. I was looking for an easy/clean way to change the oil without having to jack up the car so was about to buy an extractor pump. Im glad I watched this! Sump drain it is...
The extractor is a very useful tool but I think it's touch and go for oil extraction as in some designs you can't get to the lowest point - tube is long enough just routing it there.
*UK:* To make it go faster, you can try this really simple trick! When you put the tube in, pull it up a little bit to help the oil get in faster (think of sucking on a straw, but the straw is hitting the bottom of the cup). When it starts to make funny slurping noises, push it down all the way, and pump a few more times to get it all. When is slurps again, it should be done. *USA:* To increase oil flow-rate, insert the tube as low as it will go, and then raise it by 1/4". This method will prevent the opening of the tube contacting the bottom of the sump, which would impede the flow of oil. Once air is admitted to the tube, depress it completely and replenish the vacuum. When air is admitted a second time, you will have removed the most oil possible with the tool.
Audi with out a drain plug use the extractor until you can’t get any more oil then loosen your oil filter then extract don’t take your oil filter off all the way you will hear a empty noise .. if you don’t loosen it first and take the filter off you will get a big mess .. really helps
Best to do oil changes yourself as not only you know its been emptied properly but you also know that your putting the correct oil in. Only downside is when you take your car for a service you need to remember to tell them not to do an oil change
Of you want to get it all out you need to make sure you add some of that fresh stuff in your case. Some engines need that others don’t. Mixed results all the time. All in all should take off the plug and replace the ring anyway. This is mainly I think personally to change your oil more often with cleaner fluid.
One thing Oil Extractors are great for is just reducing the oil level if it was overfilled, when you don't need an oil change and just need to reduce the amount in the engine they are perfect
I’ve found you’ll get virtually all the oil if you leave the engine oil cap closed it’s better for the suction when using this method,also when you hear slurping move the pipe right down towards front of oil pan (you’ll feel what I mean when doing the process) I found doing it this way I only left 60 ml of old oil,in my opinion you are always best to drain oil from the sump plug
When using an extractor, put some clean oil at the end then extract some more. When the oil becomes clear, that’s when you know you cleared the drain pan of old oil.
NOT True. The 'new' oil will simply float on top of the remaining residual old oil and sludge in bottom of pan giving false impression mentioned. FYI - I have been dealing with a botched IffyLube job since last Thursday when my wife mistakenly went to IffyLube for an oil-change (thinking she was doing something good, not realizing how bad the outcome could be). Car was towed last week to independent shop to assist in damage repairs caused by IffyLube.
@@GravityRoller it really depends on the engine of the car if you think about it. I’ve seen many who did just fine and verified by pulling the plug that there are no sludges.
@@string2155 RE: "it really depends on the engine ..." I 100% agree. Here is a video example exemplifying that statement. th-cam.com/video/kZU8VzdHlCY/w-d-xo.html
I used one of these on my 2003 VW Passat, and it got most oil out, however, on my 2005 Corolla, it left 2 quarts. Must depend on how the engine & oil pan are designed. I've read that Mercedes dealerships only use the extractor method.
I have 2007 Mercedes GL450. I did little test. I drained the oil through drain plug, and raised front, then rear to make sure every last drop of oil is drained. then I put the oil extractor down through the oil dip stick tube, and started pumping. probably teaspoon amount was sucked out.
Hot engine, collection vessel under sump, remove drain plug without hot burning your hand. It is also important to fit a new oil filter element when you change the oil.
Can you advise me on a what oil extractor I can use for a Polo VW as they have a small dipstick would you advise that I put the car on a slope why extracting the oil to the help get it all out
I used and extractor then opened the drain plug. Not a single drop left. Did it 3 times before I felt comfortable that it does get all the oil. However I used a electric oil extractor. They are cheaper too.
change it on a steep hill so gravity works at your advantage (use dipstick hole) + after extraction add some fresh cheap oil in it, it will mix with the residu which you will extract, then add the premium oil in
FYI, don’t shove that tube too far. If it gets hung around one of the baffles, you’ll have to remove the oil pan to get it out. Don’t ask me why I know.
still some left w/'plug removal' method. Will U use the "drop pan/scrape its sump" method? May B... but the same methodical approach is used when figuring best use of 'extraction' method. It is not worthless~
This is a good video, well done. My maintenance manual though suggests using a pump. (Mercedes) so my take on it would be to go with the manufacturer recommendation. I accept though that might be because Mercedes want folks to go to a dealer and pay through the nose for an oil change via the sump plug. Personally I can see benefit in using a pump because I can change the oil twice a year using the pump method in the knowledge that my oil is better than leaving it a year. What do you think?
I think it is good idea to change even 75% of motor oil every few thousand km on your own and then do proper service in the garage/dealershop after mileage recommended cycle by the manufacturer.
On the contrary, changing the oil too much can harm your engine as each new batch of oil degrades the rubbers slightly. It doesn't sound right but that's from someone who tests lubricants in engines. He recommends sticking to the service schedule as the oil can handle it.
@@ConquerDriving Doesn't sound right to me. If the oil damages the rubber, it would continue to damage it. There is no magical ingredient that appears with a new change & then disappears, AFAIK.
The decision between using an extractor or a drain pan should be made only after determining if the engine design has the dipstick tube located at the deepest part of the oil pan. Only if the manufacturer actually designed the engine for extractor oil changes would I choose the extractor method. Btw, you have to change the oil filter as part of an oil change, and most are accessed from the bottom. So if you have to get under the car to change the oil filter, there is no special reason I can think of to use an extractor to remove the old oil. If you are only trying to reduce the mess, I'd suggest adding a special drain plug with a valve (Fumoto makes and sells one such valve) that you can attach a small hose to and run the hose from the valve to a catch pan. IMHO oil extractors are great for reducing the mess of changing oil in things like lawn mowers and similar equipment. But for a car or truck, I'd stick with the old fashioned method.
Never seen anyone make such hard work of vacuuming oil out. And seriously, PUT SOMETHING ON THE GROUND BEFORE YOU SPILL OLD OIL WHEN POURING IT INTO THE EMPTY CONTAINER! It’s going to happen eventually. Then again your yard is a mess already. Many cars have dedicated vacuum tubes that are built into the engine, they go lower than the sump plug.
It's definitely hit or miss. I work in a lube center. I prefer to use an extractor when it's a topside filter. I can get a car out in 10 minutes or less. If its a bottomside filter, there is not point in not draining Certain cars will evac all the oil, others it's very apparent when it cant
You haven’t done it correctly mate. Run the engine to temperature then extract through the dipstick. Leave for 5 mins undo the oil filter if it’s on top and run again. You’ll be left with barely 100ml. Works great on most VW group and Mercedes engines. Mercedes dealer uses the extraction method too…. Also remember that with the manual pump you have, you’ve gotta do quite a bit of pumping to get it all out.
Ok so just so im reading this right, get the car scolding hot (operating temperture) and potentially melt the plastic pipe before you even extract any oil. On a proformanmce car like mine operating temp is untouchable. Then once iv risked my pipe being melted. I undo the oil filter and let oil splash absolutely everywhere because there is a thing in an engine called "oil pressure" ... It will piss out the oil filter housing. Thats a fact. So once iv took off my oil filter and got oil everywhere and probably ran the oil dry in a matter of 30 seconds and caused extreme wear to my engine. Then ill just carry on pumping yeh?? You run the car for a little bit, luke warm is all you need... so the metal shavings etc get suspended in the oil... no need to get upto oil temp. BTW no one listen to this guy, Mercedes dont do this... and if you have ever seen them do this, let me know which dealer because ill be reporting them and some rubbish macanic will be getting fired. Cheers
@@johnboy2436 the plastic pipe does not melt at all…. And why would the engine undergo ‘extreme wear’. You switch it off once you start pumping and it doesn’t start again till you put new oil in. If your filter is underneath use some heatproof gloves and take it off…. The warmer the oil the more you’ll get out. Merc garage here in west London uses extraction pumps on most new diesel models like e220.
@@jawadhaider9514 i can tell you for a fact, on my car (Focus RS). The manifold and the front area of the engine block gets so hot it will cook an egg. I dont really want to here stuff thats lies bro sorry. Your information could damage someone's property its bad advice. Todays modern oils dont thin much as they get hot... Getting them luke warm is engine to suspend the particles in the oil. The point isnt to get it warm.. Its to get all the stuff from the bottom of the pan suspended in the oil. Even if, they use a oil pump for one model of car... Its certainly doesnt apply to even 90 percent of the people viewing your comment and thinking this would apply to there car.
I was once an unbeliever in oil extractors until I used one. I use one to change oil on all my small engines as it is much faster, easier with less cleanup. When I'm finished extracting, I remove the drain plug and I might get a dribble out. (my lawn mower, nothing) It makes me wonder if small engines are actually designed for them.
n my clk 200 I sucked almost 6 liters and the engine should be 5.5 so in my opinion it gives advice with frequent changes there is no point playing in draining oil from the bowl traditionally
Use the ones with metallic tube, like the pela 6000 Tested it on 3 Ford (orion, fiesta, puma) and a 1.7 diesel astra. Took out the exact factory oil capacity.
I hate to break it to you but even when you use the drain plug there will be a film of old oil over all of the engine internals so you will never get it all out. I am not sure how you manged to have so much left in, every other video is about 100ml. Maybe you werent on level ground or you had oil locked in the filter? There are many other advantages to extracting the oil, safety of not being under the car, its a lot cleaner etc etc. Most Mercedes dealerships in the uk extract the oil when they service their cars, this isn't a back street garage technique.
Agreed, however I know of someone who develops and tests oils. Apparently replacing it too often has its downsides as new oil wears rubber stem seals. So best leave it to the schedule.
Hmmmm, I worked for the biggest dealerships in the UK from London Park lane to Berkshire. They do a clean job, but in some aspects they are worse than the backstreets shops!!! They swapped good parts from cars under warranty to fit them in cars out of warranty!!! Charging the customer and then claiming cash from the manufacturer. They used to make me sick. Mark your spark plugs before the major service!!!!!!! They always make sure that the windscreen washer is filled up with apple sent fresh cleaner fluid, the only thing you can see and it will give you the feeling that OH MY CAR HAS BEEN SERVICED WELL....
not entirely true, you have a better chance of extracting more residue via an extractor, than the drain plug. If the suction tubing is quite flexible you can twist and move it around a bit through the dipstick hole. Oil sumps can vary in its base shape and can have areas where oil will still be left in these 'ppcket spaces'.
Depends where your oil filter is really, if you need to jack up to access the filter, then change it the sure way, remove the plug and don’t be lazy! Simples...
@@ConquerDriving - I came to this section precisely to write something similar. Curiously it's not impractical at all! Method, method, method... ;-) Start the maintenance schedule by removing the oil plug, meanwhile go do everything else, that's required. When done with the rest, set the plug back in place, refill . Done! Trust me on this, meanwhile passed way more time than one usually think of! In short, start and finish your maintenance with the oil! It's rather simple. >35 years confirm it. ;-)
I bought that Mityvac style unit. Here's what happened: All of this started due to not wanting to go to the dealer in the thick of the Pandem. So I Purchased the Mityvac 7201 Manual Fluid Evacuator Plus, right here on Amazon in May of 2020. It FAILED ...literally after only 1.5 oil changes, done on a babied, always garaged Benz, owned since new and always to that point Mercedes-Benz dealer serviced. After that first use, I cleaned and put the unit away in the box it came in and put said box into a pristine, enclosed, garage cabinet for storage after that first awful use-experience back in the spring of 2020 as outlined above. Pulled it out again for only the second use at the end of July, 2023. Already toootally dreaded it because of the bad memory of the first multi-hours-slow-as-molasses process of pumping, pumping, pumping only to see trickles of oil into the containment cylinder of the unit as reward for the insane, constant physical input and babying of the unit that is required, although following all of the instructions to a T. Yes, the whole process takes hours and hours on end... But, in a blatant violation of the proven "Life is too short" principle, I figured that the initial cost of this danged thing had to get "amortized" through DIY oil changes here and there instead of just taking the car to the dealer, since our model Benz is really too low for DYI oil changes in your own garage in the first place unless you want to deal with setting up ramps and working through the process of jack-stand positioning, and so on, which I've done on this car doing rotor/pad replacement, etc., where a crawl to take off covers underneath the car is not in the picture. (Speaking of DIY oil changes with this moronic unit: The other added negative is that since it's such a beast of a job due to this insanely badly designed and built unit as well as it's malfunction, you actually keep sorta' procrastinating. So ...the oil change keeps gettin' put off since you dread this horrible product so much. Again, for the second time I worked this stuuuupid, inferior, time-wasting unit in the most by-the-book pedantic and meticulous way imaginable - with professional tools and previous wrenching experience on cars and motorcycles to boot. Insult to injury/inconvenience/cost: I had to abort the second oil change right in the middle of it after having extracted just under 4 liters (4.23 U.S. Quart's) due to the pump or seal(s) failing, hence the "1.5 oil changes" comment. Checked all fittings and fasteners -- Nada! Am NOT about to waste even more life-cycles or dollars trying dissect and trouble shoot this disaster and/or rebuilding it with some kit. The unit is practically new for cryin' out loud - shouldn't need a "re-build." Hoooorribly slow, hoooorribly laborious, and hoooorribly poor quality. A total joke ...and the joke has been on many of us consumers - just read the negative, genuine reviews. Stay away - stay away - STAY AWAY! from this poorly made and poorly thought out "product" made you-know-where. And then they have the gall to state "quality controlled in the U.S.A." Yeah, my foot! 🙄 There - I paid it forward. Happy wrenching!
Hot. So the oil flows freely, you should always do an oil change with warm/hot oil. Just don't let it run down your arm and be sensible, maybe leave very hot car 30 mins or so.
I may have overfilled my oil, but my car doesn't have a dipstick it's done via the measurement screen on the BMW system and says engine level ok. As a general question can you drain the excess oil via an extractor even though my car doesn't have a dipstick oil level? If that makes sense, Sorry may be a silly question. Thanks
Without a dipstick I don't see how you would extract the oil without undoing the plug at the bottom of the sump. Don't try and extract it via the oil filling location as that goes into your cam area, not your sump.
I will say one thing before using these. Make sure the car is sitting on level bit of ground. If not it will not drain most of the oil out. I've see people using it with the car sitting up half on a kerbside so not level and it doesn't pull half the oil out.
This is absolute rubbish, I’ve been using oil extractors for years regularly extracting the full oil capacity. The issue here is human error, and all this crud at the bottom of the engine you speak of, will be suspended in the oil if its hot jot sat in some mystical bottom area.
Funny you say that, I had the sump off the engine on Monday and to my surprise there was zero sludge. The extractor can't get to the bottom of this engine. It worked in the EA888.
Not sure why anyone would use this for a car engine ? Dropping the sump bolt is quicker, easier and more effective. This tool is for marine engines and anything that cannot simply be drained through the sump
Are they meant to be cleaned out? I guess if you wanted to clean it out you could use Dawn dish soap or some other type of oil removal cleaner and wash it out.
Pete Puebla you can use dawn but if you’re only using it to take out used fluids it shouldn’t matter if it’s “dirty.” I’ve never cleaned mine and used it for oil, atf, coolant, and brake fluid. I make sure to empty it after each use into a container to be processed.
I have a MERCEDES E Class 350 Bluetec Diesel. It's 3.0 litre V6. It takes 8 Litres. I've used the syphon pump on all my Mercedes. It's a Seally brand. The pump removes all the oil from the engine. All 8 litres. Used to always drop sump oil plug and change washer. Don't bother now. All my mercedes have been V6 petrol and diesel. The sump plugs are a nightmare to get to. Especially E Class and GLE. I really do recommend the pump for Mercedes. Hope this helps someone. 😊
Totally agree with you Fella SLIGHTLY WRONG: We have a fleet of cars at the film studio and our workshop uses: Sealey TP6906 Vacuum Oil & Fluid Extractor & Discharge 18L units This is what you have to do: If you are going to use a good quality Vacuum Oil & Fluid Extractor - YOU MUST Connect it to the Oil Feed Tube ( its in the engine bay ) - There is no point of just sticking it in the middle of the engine through the oil fill cap - THERE WILL NOT BE A 100% VACUUM SEAL ( as in this film the chap has just stuck the tube into the engine and its NOT 100% sealed - IT HAS TO BE A 100% seal from Extractor Tube to Engine Tube. Most cars ( and you will have to look ) have a metal thin tube pipe approx 5mm in diameter sticking up near the cylinder block with a black protective cap on. ie: On our Range Rovers / BMW's & Discoverys oh and the Ford the tube is there you just need to find it. MOST or ALL DEALER CAR SERVICE CENTERS now - will only Vacuum the old engine oil out - Car manufactures have built theses Extractor tubes into the engines to make it easier at the workshops for the service chaps ...... Its a case they connect the Vacuum tube suck the oil out while they are having a cuppa tea - and by the way you are usually sat in the service reception - and no ones working on your car ! and heres the point EVERY car we have serviced in the workshops - after using the Sealey TP6906 Vacuum unit - ZERO OLD Engine oil has come out of the Drain Bolt on the sump pan we have checked ( what we are trying to say is that you get less than half a small cup full ) YOU MUST HAVE 100% Vacuum between all the tubes THERES NO POINT OF JUST STICKING THE TUBE INTO THE ENGINE - SUCTION is paramount !
I don't trust anyone to do my car apart from my indy Mercedes expert. I do the oil myself, my sump plug is slightly raised so this works wonders and clears it all out, all 8.5 litres. Pump for my car is ideal.
Agreed, but it's nicer to know you have the worst stuff out ;) Also, a lot of cars require you to jack it up to get to the oil filter anyway. One of mine does the other doesn't.
Having replaced my oil pan recently, neither method actually gets 100% of the oil out, but the extractor should be able to get more out than the drain plug. Perhaps you pushed the tube down too far, so the end wasn't actually resting on the bottom anymore? I can't speak for every car type, but I'm absolutely positive on a 3.6L Pentastar V6, the extractor will get more oil than the drain plug.
I'll give my Volvo V70 a try tomorrow. For different reasons I couldn't go for the "traditional method" so I bought an extractor like the one showed in the video.
@@GymChess I know the feeling. I love having a quick disconnect drain hose, and a canister filter up on top. It cuts down on the mess and hassle, but it still requires me to jack the car up because my arm isn't quite long enough. I've thought about buying an extractor, but I have limited space, so I just don't have the room for one currently. I could definitely see one in my future though.
@@v12tommy I did the oil change Sunday afternoon on a parking lot. I got pretty much all the oil out and refilled with the specified amount. So at least in my case it works just great. One has to pump every now and then and move the hose up and down, etc. That way the hose will reach small pockets of oil that might be left. If time isn't important then you can do it right and more or less suck everything out of the pan.
I used the extractor on my passat and legit I got all but the last 2-3oz. I checked the bolt on the bottom after and it was just a few drops. I'm never going back to drain bolt method again since the extractor is so efficient. Having the right tubing and positioning is key
@@carmel-wayfinder5401 regardless of extractor, it's really a thin enough hose you'll need. I'd check the Mityvac fluid extractor. You can then just measure the dip stick diameter and then find the appropriate hose at a home depot or local hardware store.
I would have thought so, it's a long time ago now. I've tried doing it on a cold engine and it takes ages. It's hard to get the tube to the bottom which is why it ends up sucking air when there is still oil in it. Still works when the engine is cold just takes a lot longer.
If the oil filter is on top of the engine (most German cars) then the car was designed to use an oil extractor and it will extract nearly all of the oil. If you tip the car towards the side of the car where the dipstick is located you can get a little more.
So glad I saw this video. I thought I was going mad because I only extracted 5L from my BMW 635d after an hour of pumping! So I drained it through the sump plug and recovered another 3L! Looking at the size and shape of my oil sump and where the dipstick enters it makes sense that the tube never gets near the bottom. Be warned.
Did you remember to open oil filler cap while pumping. Have done BMW V6 and it takes 10 minutes at most. Maybe bad pump if cap was open.
From a mechanic, use a more Rigid hose and feel for the bottom of the pan if you want to extract it once it starts making slurping noises feel around the bottom of the pan with the hose, but extracting it is only really worth it if the filter is on top
What do you mean By the filter is on top?
@@maxitan2798 on some engines, 3.6 l V6 from FiatChrysler, Subaru's newer boxer engines most Mercedes and Audis engines
You can see the oil filter on top on the Chrysler V6 it's right under the intake in the valley on the Subarus it's right in front of the driver's side cylinder Bank you can reach them just by opening the hood
@@maxitan2798 To expand some more, if the oil filter is on the bottom of the car anyway, you might as well use a drain pan since you're lifting and getting under the car. Oil extractors save time if everything can be done from just under the hood.
I have a 2014 MB E350 and I use an evacuator. This car takes about 7.5 Liters. That is about how much the evacuator removed. I pulled the plug and about 100 ML drained out. Even if you do the drain plug method, or evacuator, it is good to add about a 1/2 quart of clean oil to flush it out. This can be cheaper, but, new oil to use for flushing the remnant of the oil pan. If you look at the design of the oil pan, even pulling the plug will not drain all of the oil as there is an indentation to add the drain plug to the pan. Also, if you warm up the engine first, most of the sediment is 'stirred' up enough where you will get most of it in either method. Basically, it depends on the design of the oil pan, and can the tube reach the bottom of the oil pan for success.
Putting oil in to help flush it out is a good idea!
How about using an oil flush before extracting?
@@paulanthony4089 I am old enough to remember when that was a common practice. We used anything from oil + Kerosene, oil + Transmission Fluid and some flushing products which were often about the same as the first 2 mentioned. But our engines were dirty, sludgy and some didn't even have, pcv valves or oil filters. Carbon deposits were thick from carburetors, often poorly setup and the usage of cold weather chokes. Oils were nowhere near as good as today's products and you seriously had to change the oil every 2-3k miles. Consider a new car which has all kinds of tiny bits of mechanisms in overhead cam engines, variable valve timing components, hydraulic cam chain tensioners etc. This becomes problematic when you attempt to break loose deposits which may become lodged in any of the tiny orifices feeding these mechanisms and inside the components themselves. Unless you have an engine which has been abused with poor or no maintenance, or grossly overheated and the oil burned inside the engine you will never need to use any kind of flushing media before changing the oil. At most, and this has happened to me, if you have really gone over the factory recommended interval, just change the oil as normal, perhaps with the lightest grade the manufacturer allows, and then change it again in about 500 to 1000 miles. Examine the removed oil for contaminants and even then I'll bet you find nothing of concern. So I don't think any kind of aggressive flushing media is needed or wise in modern engines.
@@OldTooly Thanks for the feedback. yeah, I figured flushing would have been a bad idea. I bought a 7L pump on ebay for $40 it worked great with no additional additive.
I've seen people accidentally do oil flushes by forgetting to put the drain plug back in.
Just used the extractor to change the oil on my Jaguar XF 3.0D. Exact 6.6 liter out. 6.6 liter in . No problem at all. Jaguar dealer use extractor too.
It works on some cars and many dealers use them. Doesn't work on all though. Didn't work on this car or my VX220. But seemed to work on the EA888 engine.
@@ConquerDriving yes, depending on engine design. Some engines you can get all the way down to the bottom of oil pan through dip stick tube, other engines just can’t be done.
Garbage, it will start to leak and lose suction.
Get a 100 watt 12 volt, use the car
Battrey and walk away for 10 min
I just used a small vacuum pump for my motorcycle since the oil plug is really inconvenient to access. That was such a clean and convenient oil change. I still got my 2.4L out, as the manufacturer stated.
I think it depends on the oil pan design. Some are necessary to empty via the drain plug, some actually drain more thru the dip stick tube
That is true, it works better in some engines than others.
@@ConquerDriving absolutely
Afaik, the old mercedes OM series diesel engines(the million mile engines) had so much sludge and gunk buildup from engine oil changes via drain plug, they told every certified mechanic to use an oil extractor
@@someguy9520 Hi I just bought (not used yet) a Harpy electric oil extractor, in you guys opion , will it get the bottom oil as well? Thank You
I agree. With an extractor you're leaving the worst sludge, metal particles and other contaminants stuck in the bottom of the oil pan because that's where they sink when the engine is turned off. The fresh oil is just diluting all those contaminants so they can be re-circulated in your nice new oil and back into the engine. Older cars have more engine wear so the older they are the more you need to remove all of the contaminants. You're trading efficiency for speed and convenience. That could come back to bite you in your bumper.
This is why oil filters exist, to filter out the sludge and particulate.
@@alexraia1377 Have you ever changed oil yourself? The sludge is still lying in the bottom of the oil pan. That's why they put the drain plug there.
@@1notgilty that's why oil filters exist, any contaminants that actually *circulate* will be filtered. Logically, you won't need to worry about the "sludge lying in the bottom", which btw will be diluted.
@@madsantos Or, you could just remove the drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan and get rid of all that sludge and particles without recirculating it through the engine and clogging up the new oil filter like the engineers who designed the engine intended. They're doing it bass ackwards.
@@1notgilty if you have sludge in engine its screwed already
I overfilled by accident, so extracting the extra bit I overfilled with this pump really helped
It is good for that.
It depends on the engine tank of each car, and also the inlet tube size. For most European cars, extracting oil works well. But yet to see other car models. Also the inlet tube size matters as big size prevents you from reaching bottom of a tank, while smaller size reaches bottom, but may effect extracting speed. Also someone actually studied some Bens-Mercedes engine tank, and found that extracting oil pulls more oil than traditional plug-drain method, as the plug locates above the bottom, and cannot drain some good size of oil, while the inlet tube can reach bottom, and thus extracts more oil. Hope more people can show how the extracting method works on Japanese models.
It is different with different models from my experience so far.
Tip 1: wait 5 minutes after extraction, then do a 2nd pass. Should get all the remaining oil that way.
Tip 2: be sure to insert the hose down as far as possible, then move up/down and check again. Mark the hose so you know how far to insert the next time.
I spent a long time trying to get all the oil and moved the tube a lot. It doesn't work on this car or my old VX220. It works on some though like the EA888.
First of all you should have done that after letting the engine run for 3-5 min so it is more fluid. Second of all, you're attitude tells us everything we need to know that u are doing pretty sure a bias work. With all due respect
this is assuming your dipstick has no obstruction below its lowest point. keep in mind the dipstick is not designed to measure if your oil is empty, but to measure if you have sufficient oil. in otherwords, it measures the absolutely min acceptable and absolutely max amount of oil and therefore doesnt require reaching down all the way to the bottom of your oil pan to get every last drop of oil and metal shavings.
Thanx. Very informative. I have always been changing oil by the old school “ drain plug” method but recently bought an extraction pump from Lidl - an impulse buy . I think after watching your video I will do both methods together 😎👍👍👍
It's worth doing to see how much your extractor actually gets with your car. I certainly can't use it on my car.
Haha I’ve also just bought oil extractor from Lidl few weeks ago and now trying to understand wether to use it or not 😂😂😂
why do both? if ur gojng to jack it up, get under and get dirty. that method is faster and less prone to accidents (pump failure under vacuum)
How did the lidl extractor work out? Do you still have/use it?
Fun fact. We own a diesel SmartCar, which doesnt have a drain plug and never has. You are suppose to take them to Mercedes (who own Smart) and they use an electric extractor (basically just like this extractor, but you dont have to pump it manually). So on some vehicles it's a must. It's not about which is better. There's a time and a place for both methods. As someone stated in the comments below. Some cars have raised sump plugs, which don't allow all the oil to come out anyway. An extractor would actually remove more oil than the plug. I'd also like to add. I use one a lot on machinery. For example commercial mowers, they aren't designed like cars, and engines and such are often in awkward locations. So instead of a drain plugs, they come with brass taps and other arrangements, which seize up or fail after a year or two, and cannot be removed. Plus you carry out the oil changes so regularly on machinery, I don't lose sleep over getting every last drop, an oil change is better than no oil change.
There is no 'best way'. They best way is to make sure the oil change gets done full stop. I would use a drain plug if perfectly possible, but an extractor is another useful tool in the tool box.
In some cars the extractor method doesn't work, I've tried various cars but given how bad it is on the 1.4TSI it should not be the standard oil change method for a garage.
@@ConquerDriving how does it work for a 1.2 Polo please
This actually depends on your engine. My Honda Pilot engine reach the very bottom.
But I had a Ford Explorer where an extractor was an absolute no go.
This is true. Seems to work well on an EA888 engine by VW
Good lad. Just saved me a few quid. I'll just need to get under the engine bay, old skool style.
well done, I always knew the lazy way was the wrong way , also the magnetic plug shows you any trouble you might have, finally heat up the copper washer to red hot to anneal it and save yourself a few quid......
Someone recommended this product to me. So my immediate question can it get all the oil out. I found the answer. Thanks
You're welcome, it does work OK with some engines. VW engine EA888, it gets most the oil.
@@ConquerDriving really? I have EA888 engine, thank god
Depends on the model and technique. There may be some sumps with lower areas then what the extractor tube can reach. On both my current vehicle and previous vehicle the extractor removed as many litres of oil as is specified as the sump capacity in the vehicle specs. Good enough for me. You have to warm the engine first, and when you have drained the sump, wait another ten minutes for any oil that was elsewhere in the works to settle, then suck out some more.
Agreed, it works well on an EA888 engine but it should not be used be garages as unless they have tested each car they don't know if it's getting all the oil.
@@ConquerDriving agreed, I would be suspicious of a garage that uses them, if they are underneath changing the filter, why bother? I can see it being useful for quick interim oil changes though on big capacity engines where 2-300 ml of 6 month old oil won't cause much harm.
I did little test with my Mercedes M273 engine.
Drained through oil drain plug, then put the extractor in to see if it can suck out something, and it did suck out probably couple table spoon worth of oil.
@@RG-in7ks 4
thank you , saved me buying the extractor machine in the first place .
You're welcome, it does work well in some engines though. It all depends.
I use it for oil changes "between" full oil changes. It's quicker and much easier than lifting the car, removing the drain bolt, drain, remove filter, drain, install new filter, insert drain bolt, fill. The evaluator for every second oil change makes life easier.
I bought an oil extractor, used it once, and put it away. Like you I found that I couldn't get all the oil out. The other problem - I still had to get under the car to remove the oil filter which pretty much defeated the purpose of getting it in the first place
personally I like this oil extractor.th-cam.com/video/65MMnubY4DA/w-d-xo.html
1 =USE RIGID PIE, 2 =MAKE SURE OIL IS HOT AS POSS, 3 =JACK FRONT OF CAR ON ONE SIDE SO TO TILT THE ENGINE OVER FOR BEST REULTS, 4 =WHEN U HEAR SLURPING NOISES WHEN ALMOST DONE PUSH PIPE TO BOTTOM OF SUMP MORE, 5 =EVERY 3RD OIL CHANGE DO IT WITH THE SUMP PLUG METHOD, THIS PUMP IS GOOD FOR DOING MORE REGULAR CHANGES, BUT EVERY NOW AND THEN DO THE CORRECT WAY.
It seems that it would help if towards the end (when you start hearing sucking noises), you close the oil cap tightly and try to cover tightly the top of the oil dipstick pipe where the plastic pipe goes in to avoid air going in and the vacuum can lift any remaining oil.
You may want to try that and let us know.
Great video, thanks. I was looking for an easy/clean way to change the oil without having to jack up the car so was about to buy an extractor pump. Im glad I watched this! Sump drain it is...
The extractor is a very useful tool but I think it's touch and go for oil extraction as in some designs you can't get to the lowest point - tube is long enough just routing it there.
*UK:* To make it go faster, you can try this really simple trick! When you put the tube in, pull it up a little bit to help the oil get in faster (think of sucking on a straw, but the straw is hitting the bottom of the cup).
When it starts to make funny slurping noises, push it down all the way, and pump a few more times to get it all.
When is slurps again, it should be done.
*USA:* To increase oil flow-rate, insert the tube as low as it will go, and then raise it by 1/4".
This method will prevent the opening of the tube contacting the bottom of the sump, which would impede the flow of oil.
Once air is admitted to the tube, depress it completely and replenish the vacuum.
When air is admitted a second time, you will have removed the most oil possible with the tool.
Audi with out a drain plug use the extractor until you can’t get any more oil then loosen your oil filter then extract don’t take your oil filter off all the way you will hear a empty noise .. if you don’t loosen it first and take the filter off you will get a big mess .. really helps
All Marine engines use an oil extraction system .
Not true. Many inboard have a hose attached to the drain plug and you feed the hose out of the hulls drain plug, and drain the oil that way.
Best to do oil changes yourself as not only you know its been emptied properly but you also know that your putting the correct oil in. Only downside is when you take your car for a service you need to remember to tell them not to do an oil change
Agreed, but if you oil change yourself you can service yourself. The only trouble is service history.
Of you want to get it all out you need to make sure you add some of that fresh stuff in your case. Some engines need that others don’t. Mixed results all the time. All in all should take off the plug and replace the ring anyway. This is mainly I think personally to change your oil more often with cleaner fluid.
Thank You for this video.....very logical approach.....
You're welcome.
oil extraction works great on cars with oil filters that can be changed without going under the car like the EA888
It does seem to work better on the EA888. On my EA211 though it doesn't reach all the oil.
One thing Oil Extractors are great for is just reducing the oil level if it was overfilled, when you don't need an oil change and just need to reduce the amount in the engine they are perfect
Don’t know how missed this Richard.
I’ve found you’ll get virtually all the oil if you leave the engine oil cap closed it’s better for the suction when using this method,also when you hear slurping move the pipe right down towards front of oil pan (you’ll feel what I mean when doing the process) I found doing it this way I only left 60 ml of old oil,in my opinion you are always best to drain oil from the sump plug
Congratulations for hitting 5k, am so happy. You really deserve more than 1 million subs 😄😄
Thank you so much, the hard work is starting to get noticed.
He’s my sub x
When using an extractor, put some clean oil at the end then extract some more. When the oil becomes clear, that’s when you know you cleared the drain pan of old oil.
NOT True.
The 'new' oil will simply float on top of the remaining residual old oil and sludge in bottom of pan giving false impression mentioned.
FYI - I have been dealing with a botched IffyLube job since last Thursday when my wife mistakenly went to IffyLube for an oil-change (thinking she was doing something good, not realizing how bad the outcome could be). Car was towed last week to independent shop to assist in damage repairs caused by IffyLube.
@@GravityRoller it really depends on the engine of the car if you think about it. I’ve seen many who did just fine and verified by pulling the plug that there are no sludges.
@@string2155 RE: "it really depends on the engine ..."
I 100% agree.
Here is a video example exemplifying that statement.
th-cam.com/video/kZU8VzdHlCY/w-d-xo.html
@@GravityRoller agree to agree
i knew those things were no good and this guy proved it
Most things in life are simple if you're shown how to do it correctly 👍🏾
I used one of these on my 2003 VW Passat, and it got most oil out, however, on my 2005 Corolla, it left 2 quarts. Must depend on how the engine & oil pan are designed. I've read that Mercedes dealerships only use the extractor method.
I have 2007 Mercedes GL450. I did little test. I drained the oil through drain plug, and raised front, then rear to make sure every last drop of oil is drained. then I put the oil extractor down through the oil dip stick tube, and started pumping.
probably teaspoon amount was sucked out.
You did it wrong😂😂😂 all other users extract all of the oil except less than a 1/4 cup.
It all must go or sooner than later your engine will.
@@chodkowski01 not quite mate. They’re all probably made in the same factory. That being said, it’s success depends on the type of car/engine.
Hot engine, collection vessel under sump, remove drain plug without hot burning your hand. It is also important to fit a new oil filter element when you change the oil.
Yes, I fitted a new filter, this was purely a test to see how much oil the extractor would get.
Thanks for the video! I'm gonna bypass the oil extractor.
Oil extractor gets all the oil out --- been there removed the sumps --- if any doubts just jack the car a little or use a slope.
Can you advise me on a what oil extractor I can use for a Polo VW as they have a small dipstick would you advise that I put the car on a slope why extracting the oil to the help get it all out
I used and extractor then opened the drain plug. Not a single drop left. Did it 3 times before I felt comfortable that it does get all the oil. However I used a electric oil extractor. They are cheaper too.
change it on a steep hill so gravity works at your advantage (use dipstick hole) + after extraction add some fresh cheap oil in it, it will mix with the residu which you will extract, then add the premium oil in
FYI, don’t shove that tube too far. If it gets hung around one of the baffles, you’ll have to remove the oil pan to get it out.
Don’t ask me why I know.
That's sounds like a very unfortunate circumstance!
Thank yoiu. I was wondering if they worked.
still some left w/'plug removal' method. Will U use the "drop pan/scrape its sump" method? May B... but the same methodical approach is used when figuring best use of 'extraction' method. It is not worthless~
This is a good video, well done. My maintenance manual though suggests using a pump. (Mercedes) so my take on it would be to go with the manufacturer recommendation. I accept though that might be because Mercedes want folks to go to a dealer and pay through the nose for an oil change via the sump plug.
Personally I can see benefit in using a pump because I can change the oil twice a year using the pump method in the knowledge that my oil is better than leaving it a year. What do you think?
This is true. I like to clear whatever is sitting at the bottom of the sump though.
Would be interesting to know how often you change the oil in your Seat considering how many miles it has done ?
I think it is good idea to change even 75% of motor oil every few thousand km on your own and then do proper service in the garage/dealershop after mileage recommended cycle by the manufacturer.
On the contrary, changing the oil too much can harm your engine as each new batch of oil degrades the rubbers slightly. It doesn't sound right but that's from someone who tests lubricants in engines. He recommends sticking to the service schedule as the oil can handle it.
@@ConquerDriving Doesn't sound right to me. If the oil damages the rubber, it would continue to damage it. There is no magical ingredient that appears with a new change & then disappears, AFAIK.
The decision between using an extractor or a drain pan should be made only after determining if the engine design has the dipstick tube located at the deepest part of the oil pan. Only if the manufacturer actually designed the engine for extractor oil changes would I choose the extractor method. Btw, you have to change the oil filter as part of an oil change, and most are accessed from the bottom. So if you have to get under the car to change the oil filter, there is no special reason I can think of to use an extractor to remove the old oil. If you are only trying to reduce the mess, I'd suggest adding a special drain plug with a valve (Fumoto makes and sells one such valve) that you can attach a small hose to and run the hose from the valve to a catch pan. IMHO oil extractors are great for reducing the mess of changing oil in things like lawn mowers and similar equipment. But for a car or truck, I'd stick with the old fashioned method.
Good advice.
Never seen anyone make such hard work of vacuuming oil out. And seriously, PUT SOMETHING ON THE GROUND BEFORE YOU SPILL OLD OIL WHEN POURING IT INTO THE EMPTY CONTAINER! It’s going to happen eventually. Then again your yard is a mess already.
Many cars have dedicated vacuum tubes that are built into the engine, they go lower than the sump plug.
It's definitely hit or miss. I work in a lube center.
I prefer to use an extractor when it's a topside filter. I can get a car out in 10 minutes or less.
If its a bottomside filter, there is not point in not draining
Certain cars will evac all the oil, others it's very apparent when it cant
You haven’t done it correctly mate. Run the engine to temperature then extract through the dipstick. Leave for 5 mins undo the oil filter if it’s on top and run again. You’ll be left with barely 100ml. Works great on most VW group and Mercedes engines. Mercedes dealer uses the extraction method too….
Also remember that with the manual pump you have, you’ve gotta do quite a bit of pumping to get it all out.
Ok so just so im reading this right, get the car scolding hot (operating temperture) and potentially melt the plastic pipe before you even extract any oil. On a proformanmce car like mine operating temp is untouchable. Then once iv risked my pipe being melted. I undo the oil filter and let oil splash absolutely everywhere because there is a thing in an engine called "oil pressure" ... It will piss out the oil filter housing. Thats a fact. So once iv took off my oil filter and got oil everywhere and probably ran the oil dry in a matter of 30 seconds and caused extreme wear to my engine. Then ill just carry on pumping yeh??
You run the car for a little bit, luke warm is all you need... so the metal shavings etc get suspended in the oil... no need to get upto oil temp.
BTW no one listen to this guy, Mercedes dont do this... and if you have ever seen them do this, let me know which dealer because ill be reporting them and some rubbish macanic will be getting fired. Cheers
@@johnboy2436 the plastic pipe does not melt at all…. And why would the engine undergo ‘extreme wear’. You switch it off once you start pumping and it doesn’t start again till you put new oil in. If your filter is underneath use some heatproof gloves and take it off…. The warmer the oil the more you’ll get out.
Merc garage here in west London uses extraction pumps on most new diesel models like e220.
@@jawadhaider9514 i can tell you for a fact, on my car (Focus RS). The manifold and the front area of the engine block gets so hot it will cook an egg. I dont really want to here stuff thats lies bro sorry. Your information could damage someone's property its bad advice.
Todays modern oils dont thin much as they get hot... Getting them luke warm is engine to suspend the particles in the oil. The point isnt to get it warm.. Its to get all the stuff from the bottom of the pan suspended in the oil. Even if, they use a oil pump for one model of car... Its certainly doesnt apply to even 90 percent of the people viewing your comment and thinking this would apply to there car.
I use an oil extractor for my lawn tractor and it works awesome 👍
I'm not going to use it on my vehicles, I'll remove the oil plug.
I find it works better in some vehicles but it's not reliable in my experience.
I was once an unbeliever in oil extractors until I used one. I use one to change oil on all my small engines as it is much faster, easier with less cleanup. When I'm finished extracting, I remove the drain plug and I might get a dribble out. (my lawn mower, nothing) It makes me wonder if small engines are actually designed for them.
Pump works perfectly fine with my ford focus tdci 2.0 takes out what the oil capacity everytime
n my clk 200 I sucked almost 6 liters and the engine should be 5.5 so in my opinion it gives advice with frequent changes there is no point playing in draining oil from the bowl traditionally
Use the ones with metallic tube, like the pela 6000
Tested it on 3 Ford (orion, fiesta, puma) and a 1.7 diesel astra.
Took out the exact factory oil capacity.
How about the oil in the filter?
@@brandonshaffer5295 Bosch oil filters is what I use.
I hate to break it to you but even when you use the drain plug there will be a film of old oil over all of the engine internals so you will never get it all out. I am not sure how you manged to have so much left in, every other video is about 100ml. Maybe you werent on level ground or you had oil locked in the filter? There are many other advantages to extracting the oil, safety of not being under the car, its a lot cleaner etc etc. Most Mercedes dealerships in the uk extract the oil when they service their cars, this isn't a back street garage technique.
I've tried it on many cars with different results. Draining it always gets more oil than extracting. This one was particularly bad though.
Agreed, however I know of someone who develops and tests oils. Apparently replacing it too often has its downsides as new oil wears rubber stem seals. So best leave it to the schedule.
It's hard to believe having more metal suspended in an oil makes anything wear less....
Hmmmm, I worked for the biggest dealerships in the UK from London Park lane to Berkshire. They do a clean job, but in some aspects they are worse than the backstreets shops!!! They swapped good parts from cars under warranty to fit them in cars out of warranty!!! Charging the customer and then claiming cash from the manufacturer. They used to make me sick. Mark your spark plugs before the major service!!!!!!! They always make sure that the windscreen washer is filled up with apple sent fresh cleaner fluid, the only thing you can see and it will give you the feeling that OH MY CAR HAS BEEN SERVICED WELL....
dalefletcher111 , a lot of US dealers of different makes use extractors now. It’s probably going to be the main method going forward.
not entirely true, you have a better chance of extracting more residue via an extractor, than the drain plug. If the suction tubing is quite flexible you can twist and move it around a bit through the dipstick hole. Oil sumps can vary in its base shape and can have areas where oil will still be left in these 'ppcket spaces'.
This really depends on the car.
That's true
I was about to buy that extractor pump thank you so much for this informative video I was thinking about the same thing you proved it
To me
Thank you for doing this video.
Depends where your oil filter is really, if you need to jack up to access the filter, then change it the sure way, remove the plug and don’t be lazy! Simples...
Exactly. Quit being lazy.
Some manufacturers recommend oil extractors - Audi s3 golf r recommend sucking the oil out rather than. Draining it
It does work well on the ea888, I've done it myself.
If your oil filter is at the top of eng3bay like Mercedes this saves heaps of time taking all the under body guards off
Gravity VS ingenuity.... even Bezos, Musk and NASA will tell you Gravity wins every-time 🌝
Leave the oil plug open for one hour and see how much oil you will get out?! I leave the oil to drip for three hours or more.
Yes, this will get even more out. A little impractical for time though.
@@ConquerDriving - I came to this section precisely to write something similar. Curiously it's not impractical at all! Method, method, method... ;-)
Start the maintenance schedule by removing the oil plug, meanwhile go do everything else, that's required. When done with the rest, set the plug back in place, refill . Done!
Trust me on this, meanwhile passed way more time than one usually think of!
In short, start and finish your maintenance with the oil! It's rather simple. >35 years confirm it. ;-)
Thank you for the helpful tip👍🙏
Oil extractors are for removing excess oil not for oil changes. At least that is what we use them for in the shop.
I have a 2015 A4 TDI. Use extractor then removed drain plug. Only around 150ml came out by drain plug
just imagine....there are shops that promote this practice.
Using this tool on a Honda outboard. Does removing the engine oil filler cap actually make it suck out faster?
It should help equalise the pressure and therefore get the oil out more easily.
I just summoned the avengers and got the hulk to shake it all out.
HI, I JUST BOUGHT AN ELECTRIC OILEXTRACTOR PUMP, WILL THAT GET ALL THE OIL OUT? THANKS
Very informative. Good video Thanks!
Thank you.
Depends on which vehicule and the way you use it, i'm not sure that it was well used
works fine on my 2010 E350 and 2004 C220
It does depend on the vehicle. Works well with the EA888 engine.
I've never seen more than 50ml come out in my experience over 15 years
Very useful, but which method should i use for my Tesla?
😂
I bought that Mityvac style unit. Here's what happened: All of this started due to not wanting to go to the dealer in the thick of the Pandem. So I Purchased the Mityvac 7201 Manual Fluid Evacuator Plus, right here on Amazon in May of 2020. It FAILED ...literally after only 1.5 oil changes, done on a babied, always garaged Benz, owned since new and always to that point Mercedes-Benz dealer serviced. After that first use, I cleaned and put the unit away in the box it came in and put said box into a pristine, enclosed, garage cabinet for storage after that first awful use-experience back in the spring of 2020 as outlined above. Pulled it out again for only the second use at the end of July, 2023. Already toootally dreaded it because of the bad memory of the first multi-hours-slow-as-molasses process of pumping, pumping, pumping only to see trickles of oil into the containment cylinder of the unit as reward for the insane, constant physical input and babying of the unit that is required, although following all of the instructions to a T. Yes, the whole process takes hours and hours on end... But, in a blatant violation of the proven "Life is too short" principle, I figured that the initial cost of this danged thing had to get "amortized" through DIY oil changes here and there instead of just taking the car to the dealer, since our model Benz is really too low for DYI oil changes in your own garage in the first place unless you want to deal with setting up ramps and working through the process of jack-stand positioning, and so on, which I've done on this car doing rotor/pad replacement, etc., where a crawl to take off covers underneath the car is not in the picture. (Speaking of DIY oil changes with this moronic unit: The other added negative is that since it's such a beast of a job due to this insanely badly designed and built unit as well as it's malfunction, you actually keep sorta' procrastinating. So ...the oil change keeps gettin' put off since you dread this horrible product so much. Again, for the second time I worked this stuuuupid, inferior, time-wasting unit in the most by-the-book pedantic and meticulous way imaginable - with professional tools and previous wrenching experience on cars and motorcycles to boot. Insult to injury/inconvenience/cost: I had to abort the second oil change right in the middle of it after having extracted just under 4 liters (4.23 U.S. Quart's) due to the pump or seal(s) failing, hence the "1.5 oil changes" comment. Checked all fittings and fasteners -- Nada! Am NOT about to waste even more life-cycles or dollars trying dissect and trouble shoot this disaster and/or rebuilding it with some kit. The unit is practically new for cryin' out loud - shouldn't need a "re-build." Hoooorribly slow, hoooorribly laborious, and hoooorribly poor quality. A total joke ...and the joke has been on many of us consumers - just read the negative, genuine reviews. Stay away - stay away - STAY AWAY! from this poorly made and poorly thought out "product" made you-know-where. And then they have the gall to state "quality controlled in the U.S.A." Yeah, my foot! 🙄 There - I paid it forward. Happy wrenching!
0:47 did you mean to say hot or cold?
Hot. So the oil flows freely, you should always do an oil change with warm/hot oil. Just don't let it run down your arm and be sensible, maybe leave very hot car 30 mins or so.
@@ConquerDriving warm is better. Hot oil can cause severe burns and melt sime plastics.
I may have overfilled my oil, but my car doesn't have a dipstick it's done via the measurement screen on the BMW system and says engine level ok. As a general question can you drain the excess oil via an extractor even though my car doesn't have a dipstick oil level? If that makes sense, Sorry may be a silly question. Thanks
Without a dipstick I don't see how you would extract the oil without undoing the plug at the bottom of the sump. Don't try and extract it via the oil filling location as that goes into your cam area, not your sump.
What about the oil left in the filter?
I change that too. Hardly anything in that.
I will say one thing before using these. Make sure the car is sitting on level bit of ground. If not it will not drain most of the oil out. I've see people using it with the car sitting up half on a kerbside so not level and it doesn't pull half the oil out.
That's very true, I should have mentioned that.
This is absolute rubbish, I’ve been using oil extractors for years regularly extracting the full oil capacity. The issue here is human error, and all this crud at the bottom of the engine you speak of, will be suspended in the oil if its hot jot sat in some mystical bottom area.
Funny you say that, I had the sump off the engine on Monday and to my surprise there was zero sludge. The extractor can't get to the bottom of this engine. It worked in the EA888.
Not sure why anyone would use this for a car engine ? Dropping the sump bolt is quicker, easier and more effective. This tool is for marine engines and anything that cannot simply be drained through the sump
How do you clean out the extractors after use?
Just pour it out, I don't clean it.
Are they meant to be cleaned out? I guess if you wanted to clean it out you could use Dawn dish soap or some other type of oil removal cleaner and wash it out.
Pete Puebla you can use dawn but if you’re only using it to take out used fluids it shouldn’t matter if it’s “dirty.” I’ve never cleaned mine and used it for oil, atf, coolant, and brake fluid. I make sure to empty it after each use into a container to be processed.
I have a MERCEDES E Class 350 Bluetec Diesel.
It's 3.0 litre V6.
It takes 8 Litres.
I've used the syphon pump on all my Mercedes.
It's a Seally brand.
The pump removes all the oil from the engine.
All 8 litres.
Used to always drop sump oil plug and change washer. Don't bother now. All my mercedes have been V6 petrol and diesel. The sump plugs are a nightmare to get to. Especially E Class and GLE.
I really do recommend the pump for Mercedes.
Hope this helps someone. 😊
You must be doing something wrong because done correctly it gets more oil out than draining it.
Totally agree with you Fella
SLIGHTLY WRONG: We have a fleet of cars at the film studio and our workshop uses: Sealey TP6906 Vacuum Oil & Fluid Extractor & Discharge 18L units
This is what you have to do:
If you are going to use a good quality Vacuum Oil & Fluid Extractor - YOU MUST Connect it to the Oil Feed Tube ( its in the engine bay ) - There is no point of just sticking it in the middle of the engine through the oil fill cap - THERE WILL NOT BE A 100% VACUUM SEAL ( as in this film the chap has just stuck the tube into the engine and its NOT 100% sealed - IT HAS TO BE A 100% seal from Extractor Tube to Engine Tube.
Most cars ( and you will have to look ) have a metal thin tube pipe approx 5mm in diameter sticking up near the cylinder block with a black protective cap on.
ie: On our Range Rovers / BMW's & Discoverys oh and the Ford the tube is there you just need to find it.
MOST or ALL DEALER CAR SERVICE CENTERS now - will only Vacuum the old engine oil out - Car manufactures have built theses Extractor tubes into the engines to make it easier at the workshops for the service chaps ...... Its a case they connect the Vacuum tube suck the oil out while they are having a cuppa tea - and by the way you are usually sat in the service reception - and no ones working on your car !
and heres the point
EVERY car we have serviced in the workshops - after using the Sealey TP6906 Vacuum unit - ZERO OLD Engine oil has come out of the Drain Bolt on the sump pan we have checked ( what we are trying to say is that you get less than half a small cup full )
YOU MUST HAVE 100% Vacuum between all the tubes
THERES NO POINT OF JUST STICKING THE TUBE INTO THE ENGINE - SUCTION is paramount !
Thanks so much for this video, it's really helpful :)
I don't trust anyone to do my car apart from my indy Mercedes expert. I do the oil myself, my sump plug is slightly raised so this works wonders and clears it all out, all 8.5 litres. Pump for my car is ideal.
the oil sludge remains inside the engine and also the metal dust trapped by the magnet
I would’ve said that you didn’t loosen the oil filter, but either way that was a lot of oil left in there.
That's a shame, it'd be nice to change your oil on your driveway without any jacks
Agreed, but it's nicer to know you have the worst stuff out ;) Also, a lot of cars require you to jack it up to get to the oil filter anyway. One of mine does the other doesn't.
It works fine I don't have a problem with mine it drains mostly out.
Having replaced my oil pan recently, neither method actually gets 100% of the oil out, but the extractor should be able to get more out than the drain plug. Perhaps you pushed the tube down too far, so the end wasn't actually resting on the bottom anymore? I can't speak for every car type, but I'm absolutely positive on a 3.6L Pentastar V6, the extractor will get more oil than the drain plug.
I'll give my Volvo V70 a try tomorrow. For different reasons I couldn't go for the "traditional method" so I bought an extractor like the one showed in the video.
@@GymChess I know the feeling. I love having a quick disconnect drain hose, and a canister filter up on top. It cuts down on the mess and hassle, but it still requires me to jack the car up because my arm isn't quite long enough. I've thought about buying an extractor, but I have limited space, so I just don't have the room for one currently. I could definitely see one in my future though.
@@v12tommy I did the oil change Sunday afternoon on a parking lot. I got pretty much all the oil out and refilled with the specified amount. So at least in my case it works just great. One has to pump every now and then and move the hose up and down, etc. That way the hose will reach small pockets of oil that might be left. If time isn't important then you can do it right and more or less suck everything out of the pan.
Great job 👍 you helped me and o Betty
Hi. You must to study more, dude. i did get out 3,5L/3,6L oil from my car, (Golf 6)
I used the extractor on my passat and legit I got all but the last 2-3oz. I checked the bolt on the bottom after and it was just a few drops. I'm never going back to drain bolt method again since the extractor is so efficient. Having the right tubing and positioning is key
@@JackMilde I've got a Polo 1.2 so the dipstick is really small can you advise what extractor I should buy pls
@@carmel-wayfinder5401 regardless of extractor, it's really a thin enough hose you'll need. I'd check the Mityvac fluid extractor. You can then just measure the dip stick diameter and then find the appropriate hose at a home depot or local hardware store.
@@JackMilde 👍🏼
I can't pump and I can hear the wind blowing. What should I do? Where should I fix it?
Sounds like the tube is not far enough down to reach the oil.
It works best when you put it down the oil filler because the fatter tube will fit better
The oil filler normally just leads to the cams and then the drain holes for the oil. I can't see it working that way.
Was your engine warm?
I would have thought so, it's a long time ago now. I've tried doing it on a cold engine and it takes ages. It's hard to get the tube to the bottom which is why it ends up sucking air when there is still oil in it. Still works when the engine is cold just takes a lot longer.
@@ConquerDriving Are you in the US or UK? Is that oil extractor available in the States?