I tried these settings after getting my new wheel. However, it doesn’t work right, when I turn 90 degrees, the wheel in game goes 180. Should I look in fanalab? It works perfectly on Asseto Corsa competition, I NEED HELP!!!
Great video! I am on a DD1. Is your recommendations you published on your homepage the way to go for that wheelbase: I am especially wondering about the Wheel Damper. In your article you go for a value of 3? Last year in F123 this was set to 0 according to your article then. What has changed there which made you go for the increase? Thanks
DRS top left button, ERS Overtake the button next to it. Pit limiter button on the right side of the wheel. Then use both thumb encoders for changing the brake bias and differential, and the front facing encoders change the ERS and engine modes.
For the CSL DD If I set same rotation angle and same sensitivity in the fanatec menu the wheel doesn't match the game, it turns and locks way too fast and makes the car undriveable, any fix for this? I Just set it to Auto in the fanatec menu
Do these settings aside from the FFB strength work well for the CSL DD? Edit: also would these work for Xbox or should I follow what you have on your website?
plz help me at every track there are some corners where i just lift and the tire surface usually on the left front goes crazy hot however i take the corners like turn 13 bahrain i connot do it without overheating and the tire surface and its not my set up i have tried to change my tire preesure the camper and even the wheel rotation nothing help its so bad my foront left is at 80 percent and my rear left like 30 i dont know what am i doing im 99 percent sure its not my fault its a bug because i have seen more people complaining about this and i hope ea are gonna fix it because with this the game is unplayble its 100 percent worse than the handling issue if anyone knows something that i dont plz answer to me
Most likely it is a bug , tyres overheating, and tyre wear bugs has been a problem before , these games are so technicaly complicated they leave the gamers to discover the bugs, gear 8 is perfetic, has been on the last few versions.
I was using 8nm on WRC and it has butchered my hands. Never going over 6nm on any game ever again. I run F1 at 6nm and all is good. If you're a more mature gamer (like myself), I would be very wary of using strong FFB.
Thank you from Germany
Awesome, thank you very much!
I got the clubsport v2 x and i love it , i got the mercedes liverie on the base and wheel , looks awsome.😊
One of the best explanations and settings out there! 👌🏻
Fiiiinaaaaallllyyyy 🙌🏼
Thanks so much bro!
You‘re the real GOAT 🐐 😂
Very, very helpful!!! Obrigado my friend
Im getting almost a porpoising clunk feeling through the corners and only on f124, the same settings in f123 are still smooth
Mate thank you so much 🔥🔥
Great video, thank you. These settings are good also for CSL elite base?
I tried these settings after getting my new wheel. However, it doesn’t work right, when I turn 90 degrees, the wheel in game goes 180. Should I look in fanalab? It works perfectly on Asseto Corsa competition, I NEED HELP!!!
Great video! I am on a DD1. Is your recommendations you published on your homepage the way to go for that wheelbase: I am especially wondering about the Wheel Damper. In your article you go for a value of 3? Last year in F123 this was set to 0 according to your article then. What has changed there which made you go for the increase? Thanks
exist a video for camera setting?
Hi! 100 in game and 60 on the base. Does it clip?
When you set on wheel for example 60% witch on mine is 9NM .. and in game i set 60.. is it still same 9NM or it is 60% of 9NM ? Thanks
could you please make a moza version of this? i've the r3 on xbox and struggling with the settings
Will you do thrustmaster ?
Yea!
New to all of this, how do you have your buttons setup? DRS, etc
DRS top left button, ERS Overtake the button next to it. Pit limiter button on the right side of the wheel. Then use both thumb encoders for changing the brake bias and differential, and the front facing encoders change the ERS and engine modes.
Finally😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨😮💨
For the CSL DD If I set same rotation angle and same sensitivity in the fanatec menu the wheel doesn't match the game, it turns and locks way too fast and makes the car undriveable, any fix for this? I Just set it to Auto in the fanatec menu
Yeah same, auto is the way to go
Do these settings aside from the FFB strength work well for the CSL DD?
Edit: also would these work for Xbox or should I follow what you have on your website?
I would recommend the CSL DD specific settings on our website here - simracingsetup.com/f1-24/f1-24-fanatec-wheel-settings/
Thanks for link mate 👍
Which button add ons are you using for your wheel looks great ?
The PS5 button caps
@@SimRacingSetups link to buy ?
Hi, does this setup also work for PS5? you are the greatest 💪
It should work just fine :)
Can you help me with my set up?
Can you Show your buttons settings please
Assign DRS and ERS to top left buttons, All my MFD controls are the top right buttons. Set the thumb encoders to control brake bias and differential
plz help me at every track there are some corners where i just lift and the tire surface usually on the left front goes crazy hot however i take the corners like turn 13 bahrain i connot do it without overheating and the tire surface and its not my set up i have tried to change my tire preesure the camper and even the wheel rotation nothing help its so bad my foront left is at 80 percent and my rear left like 30 i dont know what am i doing im 99 percent sure its not my fault its a bug because i have seen more people complaining about this and i hope ea are gonna fix it because with this the game is unplayble its 100 percent worse than the handling issue if anyone knows something that i dont plz answer to me
Most likely it is a bug , tyres overheating, and tyre wear bugs has been a problem before , these games are so technicaly complicated they leave the gamers to discover the bugs, gear 8 is perfetic, has been on the last few versions.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
How big of an upgrade would you say the Clubsport DD+ is over the 8nm CSL DD?
Pretty substantial. The real question is whether it is worth the price tag if you already own a CSL DD, that I'm not convinced by.
@@SimRacingSetups yeah, I only got my 8NM CSL DD like 6 months ago, and 8NM feels like enough power for me, was just curious
@@CJ-uh8bk I run my Clubsport DD (non plus) at 8 or 9nm, anymore is too much for me.
Ahhhh just realized, it’s for pc …
any additions for ps5?
Should work exactly the same :)
Don’t know why but my wheel is going so crazy when I’m driving on the straight or hit the curb even if put 50 vibration and force feedback strength
@@olriz__4262Same, i get crazy oscillations on the straights and i feel like the game has handling assist on and it not.
V1.3?
I was using 8nm on WRC and it has butchered my hands. Never going over 6nm on any game ever again. I run F1 at 6nm and all is good.
If you're a more mature gamer (like myself), I would be very wary of using strong FFB.
Wearing gloves is the worst thing you can do, they will wear your grips down much quicker, i avoid them like the plague .
It’s for people who get sweaty palms
@@dromtl7250 Yes i see your point .