Generator Engine Repower - Engine Swap (Briggs to Subaru / Robin)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This Briggs and Stratton generator engine ran out of oil and blew a hole in the case when the rod broke. I had a Subaru / Robin EX30 engine which had the same bolt pattern for the Briggs generator head. Also, the engine dimensions look compatible so watch as I try to repower a Briggs and Stratton Storm Responder Generator with a Subaru / Robin engine. NOTE: the original Briggs engine was rated at 14hp. The Subaru / Robin is rated at 8.5hp at 3600 rpm. That will be enough to support the 5500 continuous watt rating that the generator originally had, but will limit to surge capability to about 6500 watts.
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I got one in the same shape. I took a flat top bolt and washer and repaired the block. I sealed under the washer and bolt with gasket maker. Replaced the rings and connecting rod. Put fresh oil in and fired it up. I kept it for myself. It now has many hours on it since the rebuild. It has never let me down.
Had a relative of mine purchased a brand new V W car and did what this guy do the same thing to this gen ! In 60000 thousand miles ! Never checked or changed the oil ! Same thing happened to the engine the hole in the side of the block ! Crazy !
I like the way you work, double checking and fixing problems that pop up, always looking for zero defects. A pleasure to watch, keep em coming.
Thanks 👍
I like this guy, pure video recording, no faking and explaining almost everything in-between. You are one of the best TH-camrs even without modern style video capturing and editing software. I like the part he explains how the rotor self ventilator works..Gracias💯
after watching about 10 of your videos, I have a hard time understanding why ANYONE. would do a thumbs down???.. Your videos are wicked awesome. I am wishing you would do a HONEYWELL Generator.. i have a 7500e Honeywell.. and would love to watch you do a repair or clean of one.. Cheers!!
No thumb is zero, a thumb regardless of direction is a point meaning recognition for advertising hits!
I once had a client who said to me I love my kids way too much to let them use anything which was used. One of the children earlier had demonstrated that they didn't know what it meant to repair something at all they had always thrown away stuff and gotten new. One time they had a Weedwhacker that just needed a bolt which I had on my truck and just supplied for free when I saw it in the trash. But later they just gave it to me saying it seemed too dangerous to use 🤷🏼♂️
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've been trying to figure out a problem with my generator and this has helped me see somewhat how these things fit together.
Kicks and giggles. Always the gentleman. I like 'Briggaru'! Sounds like it could be a jungle village in Jumanji. Keep up the great work!
Funny. Just made another Briggaru. I named it a Briggaru PowerStorm. (Made from a Briggs and Stratton Storm Responder and a Subaru powered PowerMate)
J Condon you are a master.
Ur videos are great. I watch them everyday. I’ve learned so much about generators from you. Awesome job my friend, keep up the good work that you do.
Thanks
hi james excellent job mate,great to be in your class today ,it is easter holiday weekend and iam watching you again, hope you and your family have a great easter mate
Thanks. Hope you also had a good Easter weekend.
Your are a real expert, I have watched your videos and with the confidence gained managed to change a leaking shaft seal on my Gx160 clone generator. You make it look easy but it requires practice. Thank you
Having been in auto-repair for years, many Japanese makes have metric fasteners with an odd intermediate-pitch thread - not available at your typical hardware store. Occasionally, I've had to go to my local Honda or Subaru dealer for hardware. They're actually closer to my place than the nearest salvage yard, or anywhere else that might have what I need.
Alternately, anytime I'm at a salvage-yard looking for some part, I'll grab a handfull of nuts & bolts. Customers usually just leave them scattered under-hood or on the ground. Good luck finding some of those special metric flange-head, washer-head, or acorn-head fasteners in a store when you need them. Or if you do find some in a store, they're 'arm & leg' priced for a package of one or two!
You could have fixed that engine block with JB Weld lol. Excellent videos keep up the good work.
Thank you for the video. Just a minor comment... 28:26 I believe that the point where the two cathodes meet (the side of the pair of diodes with the white line) in a full-wave rectifier is the positive output for the DC voltage, and vice versa.
Wouldn't you find it more convenient on a table? You're always on the floor... 😜
Thanks for giving me a better understanding about generators. I wanted to put the geni part into my engine bay of my truck, but that seems impossible on a budget.
If I understand you correctly, you want to run the generator head with your truck engine? I do not think that would be possible with a generator head that connects using a tapered shaft. The end housing on the generator head is supported by a ball bearing, but the other side is supported by the tapered crank shaft and crank shaft ball bearing. Would not be possible to run the power head outside of that setup (without a lot of fabrication).
It is possible to purchase a generator head that is driven by a belt. Would think connecting it to a tractor PTO would work better then a truck engine bay.
Three issues with the engine bay are:
1) Space
2) The generator head has a fan in it and needs to take in cool air to keep the coils cool
3) Engine speed. Depending on the hertz where you live, the power head needs to spin at 3000 rpm for 50 hertz or 3600 rpm for 60 hertz. Not sure how you would set a car to maintain that speed. Also it would need to adjust speed for a heavy load or else the engine would slow.
Yard equipment with governors are ideal for maintaining a set speed.
Well if you were closer to where I live I would try to help you out.
@@garyskowbo3564 closer to where? lol
@@jcondon1 Ahh i did not think about the RPM.... damn 800rpm idle speed of the truck is not going to be good enough unless its geared up and even though its a v6 it shud be powerfull enough to drive the generator under high load... but then again 2kw geni is not worth all that trouble. A geni that runs on old vege oil and or propane or wood gas wud be nice, but the car engine idle noise appeals to me more then some loud irritating motor running for 10 hrs and most of the time u need to run it at night....
OffGrid Aussie Prepper™ a agree about the noise. Very loud at 3600 rpm and not much better at 3000 rpm. An inverter generator would take care of the noise issue and save on gas/propane. Also a lot of RVs (caravan/motor homes) have generators that run at half the RPM and are much more quiet as a result.
On the case/block, if it has just a “simple” hole (no crazy long cracks), it can be patched via Alumaweld (aluminum-zinc) brazing, brazing on an aluminum patch …
Excellent presentation!
My Coleman Devilbiss powerback generator was different . The 4 long bolts only had nuts on one side and threads of not to other side. It may have messed up threads by using a tool to grip threads on the end closest to me that held nuts.
And when I put a rod inside and screwed in a boot after creating threads the bolt broke so I had nothing to lose and tapped with a sledge and immediately fell off shaft. I had already tried a rubber mallet.
No problem, can be fixed.
Bit of J B weld will fix that hole.
When I was a teenager a neighbor gave my friend and I a rototiller with a 5HP Tecumseh engine that had thrown the rod through the side of the block. We patched up the hole with epoxy putty and got a new rod from the mower shop down the street and got it running. It had not been run out of oil though so other than the broken rod and the hole there was no other damage. We never knew why the original rod broke.
Or Duck (lol) tape!!!
using hocky pucks are great rubber mounting devises, trim to fit
I picked up this same generator last week for $10 , and you would not believe it but it has the exact same hole in the motor as yours , I have a troy built gen that has the same motor and wattage, but the head is no good with a good motor , so just going to make 1 out the 2 , crazy it blew in the same spot, why in the world would they not put a low oil switch on theses ?
I've been informed that's what's called a " Franklin " nice job James
Thanks
Have any of those weird Torx carb bolts for those Nikki Carbs on these OHV briggs? I found one in the trash fixing it up someone messed the E torx studs pretty good
I was amazed at your workmanship dealing with the D&A of this generator. I have one now and I am still trying to figure out if the engine locked up or could the generator be rusted and will not turn the flywheel on the engine????
It’s almost always the engine, but there is a possibility that it could be something else.
Should had tried Fastenal. They're the nation's largest distributor of bulk fasteners and are open to the public.
That Throttle /governor spring should be installed through the rod and then hooked on both ends. It looks like you have it on the outside of the rod. nice Gennie BTW.
I agree. On the Subaru the governor spring is right next to the governor rod.
Dang man you should send me that motor I'd built it for my buddy's tank.. it must have a good torque number
Nice job! Overall, how are these Briggs engines if well maintained? I have a hobart welder with the Briggs in it and was wondering if I should swap it out for a Honda if Briggs engines aren't good. Never had a Briggs in the past, all my welders had Onan or Kohler.
I like them because the are easy to work on and parts availability are not an issue. The biggest problem I see on the generator Briggs engines is no oil sensor and all the engines that have an issue ran out of oil. So if you keep the oil topped off they are pretty good engines. Of coarse Honda and Onan are better. I like Kohler, but there are some to stay away from like the courage.
AWESOME how to Vid done like a Pro! Thanks! :)
Amazing job! Very impressive and inspiring!
Brandon Taylor thanks!
Does the 'Subie' engine have low-oil protection? Is this now a Subie-Stratton or Subarac?
It does have a low oil sensor. I named it a Briggaru
You always get positive and negative wrong on diodes. Positive current flows toward the stripe. On a bridge, the end with two stripes is positive.
The Brigaru & Subarigs Frankenbeast.
Great video(s)!!! Question, I have the same Generator an can't tell how much I should fill it because it doesn't have a dip stick just a cap. Should I be filling it until the oil is almost to the top?
Thanks an keep up the great videos!
Paul Rubinchik if a Briggs engine, then fill until the oil is almost at the top. I believe the Subaru EX30 is the same
@@jcondon1 thanks for the quick reply now I'm just fighting with those dam torx screws in the carb!!! Dam you Briggs.
Paul Rubinchik yes those suck if you do not have a torx socket (and who does). You can double nut it, but not a lot a threads to do that with.
@@jcondon1 Great idea, thank you so much, cause at the moment I'm at a stand still.
@@jcondon1 Had to go out to the hardware store and pickup a socket set with a 4mm socket it's a perfect fit and did the job.
rethread using helicoils, quick and inexpensive, plus it will use standard bolts
Would have liked to see how you cut down those bolts without buggering up the threads. I probably could have done it with the proper nut, screwed on first, to smooth the threads out afterwards, but you didn’t have that option.
Have the same exact model, damn I better check oil before EVERY USE! Thank for the tip about the oil sensor, your right there isn’t one.
How about a MZ360 ??
They are very good and have low oil shut down that works to 😊
Have a question,
I have a B&S 5500XL generator and I'm having a hard time removing the rear housing (outer) from the stator and rotor.
The bearing seems to be stuck onto the housing and I have tried everything possible to separate the bearing from the housing.
I can't get nothing off to remove the stator and rotor.
What do you recommend that I do without me breaking the housing?
After you take load off how long do you run to cool?
Thank You 🙏
What did you do with the carburetor off the bridges. I need one
Used it on another generator that had a Chinese clone Nikki carb. I still have the clone, but was jetted incorrectly and basically junk.
James Condon ok thanks if you don’t care what hp is on them is it a 8 hp ?
My tecumseh has a low oil sensor and still did the same . I was told it doesn’t shut down engine it only prevents starting
It's amazing 700.00 in parts to fix an engine you can buy brand new for about 200.00. I'm going to repower a generator using a small diesel engine
Great video. Awesome job! 👍
One of the things that I find striking about your videos is the lack of 'clutter' I see in many videos. I would be ashamed to let anyone see the messes I see in some videos. If you ever find yourself without something to fix, maybe consider doing a Shop Tour video. This video was really interesting.
Well, if I turned the camera to the right, left or behind me you would see the mess. Would definitely consider a shop tour, mostly just common tools. Despite that huge tool cabinet in the background, it is actually 70% full of my sons stuff (not tools).
Hi I have a Briggs and Stratton elite 5500 generator with I wonder if its possible to switch the Briggs with a Honda GX 390?
Engine upgrade, not just replacement. I would rather have a Subaru than a Briggs anyway.
Maybe the Briggs engine blew because of the angle it sits with those big wheels. Are those wheels oem? Thanks for the videos!
Gilbert Cruz those are OEM. The engine ran out of oil. No low oil sensor.
@@jcondon1 That engine should have an oil sensor. A generator without a low oil shutdown is a rarity.
The older L-head engines had a simple float switch connected in parallel with the kill switch. The newer (tilted OHV) engines typically have an oil pressure switch with a cube-shaped electronic module that allows starting and running briefly without oil pressure.
They are commonly disconnected on destroyed engines, which is more a reflection that they do serve a valuable function than their failure rate.
Why didn't you tap the holes for bolts that you can get?
I have an almost identical Briggs generator. We dug it out of storage for a hurricane, changed the oil with fresh oil, less than 8 hours later it blew the con rod... I guess the piston rings went bad sitting in storage for several years and it ate all the oil. For the life of me I cannot find a suitable replacement engine because of the tapered shaft on this thing. Any ideas? Already bought a new generator, but don't see why I can't get the old one running and sell it.
Any 10 HP Briggs engine that looks similar from a generator should work. Of coarse a Subaru EX30 will work with a little modification.
@@jcondon1 Thanks for responding. Not finding any luck on used engines. I have found a new Tecumseh 10hp for about $200, but not sure if it's worth it, as I doubt I'll even get $250 out of the generator when said and done. The hard part is finding something with a throttle govenor setup. Looks like any new Briggs engine is out of the question...they are the same price as an entire generator.
@@cup_and_cone it does take time to find an engine. Cost wise it does not make sense to by a new engine. Even at $200.
Great job
Thanks
What is the part number of that dual element air filter element for the EX30? I hate the filters that are urethane foam only - seems they disintegrate every couple of years and get sucked into the engine if you forget to check it!
The part number on the air box was 279-32620-40 and the filter element 279-32609-07. Not sure if it can directly replace a foam one without changing the box.
@@jcondon1 thank you I appreciate it! Good job on the video
To get plastic vs. using wood, how about the vinyl simulated wood you see at the home improvement stores?
That would be better. Recently improved on this. Video coming soon.
Discovering your videos recently inspired me to improve my Briggs and Stratton elite series. The starter battery failed due to age so I removed it and used some of this vinyl wood to make an insulated terminal block to mount the starter terminals. Instead of spending over $100 for the special battery and having to maintain it, I just now use my portable jumper pack to provide the temp. 12v to the starter and disconnect.
Look forward to it! It’s great that all of these units you rework are getting a second life and are staying out of the waste stream.
Hi James. The Chinese engine 208cc horizontal shaft (widely used on snow blowers) has carb Huayi (honda's clone). I stripped the main jet, then took it out with an extractor. I clear the hole. Do you know what the hole size or how to find replacement for the jet?
Sorry do knot know the size. If you know what Honda engine it is based on, you might be able to order a new jet from Honda. That is a very common carburetor. A new Honda jet would cost $10-$15 dollars. You could probably get the whole clone carb for a little more.
Can you repower the older colmen power mate 5500's? I've heard the power heads only work with tecumseh motors.
Sorry, have not pulled one of those apart yet.
Do you want sell the Subaru bell housing James?
I would. Still have one that looks like the one I pulled.
I had the similar machine which was about to explode,had it replaced with a far more powerful,start first time,less cost generator,,,ryobi ,
Very informative. I subbed.
At least the Suzuki wasn't off a delivery motorcycle.
Excellent job!
57hz is better than not running at all. That original motor must have had a dime or nickle size hole. Bad way for a motor to die
True
What happens if you put a more powerful motor on a generator? Keeping the rpms the same but just bigger cc engine. Have a tiny generator with a bad 79cc motor and I was looking at putting a predator 99cc in it possibly. It's not a huge jump I was just kind of curious.
The extra HP will not hurt anything. The generator head is fused to trip when you exceed the power rating.
Its amazing how oil is never checked then .....oh no low oil sensor 🤣
Right, you would think if you have no oil sensor you would check more often.
Hi James Chris here I would like to know the torque specs for attaching the bell housing part to the motor part I am working on a generator and I am having trouble finding a manual on the generator part to get the toque specs on the generator do you have any ideas as to where I can get a manual for jobs like this to be able to torque the parts right please let me know thanks Chris
It’s near impossible to find that information. The bell housing I normally torque to about 20 ft/lbs and use medium strength loctite. That is based mostly on the bolt size and general specs going into aluminum. Would double check your bolt size and look online for standard specs when fastening to aluminum.
Those bolts are almost certainly M10 x 1.5.
th-cam.com/video/CQeezCdF4mk/w-d-xo.html
Any particulars on what caused the original engine low oil condition? Carelessness by the user or engine excessive oil consumption?
It was used on a construction site. I am sure it was just run day after day without anyone checking the oil.
I would have heli-coiled the threaded holes to get back to a common size.
Wonder if they sell some type of adjustable load testing box, so you could just dial up the load.
They are available, but kinda a rear item.
plenty of generators are also killed by people putting them on a steep slope..........and lack of lubrication claims another.
I buy lots of oddball bolts and hardware from McMaster.com usually arrives within 2 days. Keep up the great work.
Thanks. That looks like a really good web site.
Grainger should have a very large supply, if you aren't already aware of them.
Could have drilled and tapped to put in New hellicoils....to save time and money for standard thread 3/8-16
He had ones that fit, even checked but they were too long, i woulda instantly cut them myself instead of waiting weeks for new bolts, that didn't make any sense to me
In your opinion is the Subaru engine more reliable than the Briggs and Stratton it replaced?
Yes. The Subaru is a very good engine. Often the Briggs engines blow due to lack of oil. Subaru has an oil sensor.
I disagree with your math. Steady 5500 watts output requires at least 11 hp. Loads lighter than 5500 watts require less hp. Probably the low oil resulted in serious overheating, the piston expanded (thermal coefficient of aluminum is rather high), seized in the bore and broke the connecting rod.
Those briggs keep throwing rods I always stay away from those IMO they inferior when compared to their flathead cousins. Perhaps because they are built in China? (if my memory serves me correct)
I was watching the video of the engine repower Briggs to Subaru,, and to give you two tips (1) I have seen other mechanics use hockey puck for engine mounts or spacers (cut to desired thickness). The other idea is for heat shielding(I hate to even suggest this) should you have an old house asbestos shingle I think they would be about 1/8" thick, it might be used to protect the gen head from the very close exhaust. Just an idea....I am familiar with the health issues (mesothelioma) associated. I'm an old ship yard chemist (nuclear sub construction) and surface craft. Nothing beat asbestos in shielding against excess heat. "Just kicking around idea. " video was very good. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip. I like the hockey puck idea. That would have worked well to get the stator height up.
I have the same unit the engine runs great, but that stator in bogging the engine down any ideas? Oh yes it makes power
It should not bog the engine unless there is a load. To be sure you can unplug the brush wire and start it up. If no bogging, then there is an issue with the stator and probably needs to be replaced.
You can go to any hardware store and buy those bolts why wait 3 weeks
Donald Fusco sr I tried that first. It was an odd thread count.
please 62 hz in idle, 2hz is not bad but 57hz at 5000w overheats rotor and stator windings
I just came upon your channel. You are very knowledgeable. Are you self taught?
Thanks. Self taught over the last few years.
Ty for the reply do you recommend any learning material in addition to watching your channel
That makes a lot of sense lol
What size bolt did you use to pop off the armature??
M12 1.75
If anything you got a lot of Briggs parts for the parts bin!
I do have a full Briggs bin.
having a little trouble believing that a motor that is half the horsepower is going to deliver the same continuous wattage. what is the basis for that ?
The original engine was 10 HP. The Subaru was 9.5. You need 1 HP for every 546 watts. That brings it to about 5200 continues watts. According to the Subaru EX30 data sheet on that engine, they recommend 5000 continuous, but it can do 5500. It will not be able to surge though to 8250. Doubt the original could do that either for more then a couple seconds. The breaker is set to trip at 5500 watts.
@@jcondon1 ah, i see, thanks. your video description indicated that the briggs was 14hp and the robin was 8.5, which would have been a big difference. i didn't think to look up the HP -> watts conversion, but i should have known to.
@@tpelton will update the description. Thanks for pointing it out.
What are you going to do with all that equipment? Have a snowyard sale?lol
That was terrible looking oil in that old engine. I bet it was never checked or changed since you sold it to the guy.
How hard would it be to put a low oil light on that generator man.
A sensor? You would have to open up the engine. Would be easier to check it once in a while. Might be another option. Saw a Briggs once with an oil sensor screwed into the oil fill port. Maybe that is an addon for engines like this?
@@jcondon1 I know some have the low oil lights and sensors on them thats why i was asking how hard it would be. Thanks for the info my friend.
Those Engine To Bell Housing Bolts Are */1.25 MM
Where do you get your torque specs from?
eightofnine9 I did not have a service manual for this. Most important bolts I use a torque wrench to see when they start turn to get a ball park numbers when I take it apart. I usually cross reference those numbers to general specs for the grade bolt and material it is going in to. Usually I go on the low side. Engine work I can usually find numbers for the valves, valve cover, head, carb etc. but on the generator side that information is near impossible to get.
Surely if your engine is a Subaru the bolting for your Bell Housing would be metric?
You would think so, but pretty sure I ended up using 3/8-18
As usually junk from E Bay old carb better then new , never had luck from to much stuff off E Bay , I don’t buy anymore from there for that reason dealers selling junk or rejected parts.
I prefer amazon especial for clone carbs. Much easier to return.
James Condon yep I agree , some dealers sell from both sale outlets too .
Old rusted fly wheels. 😂. Why don’t you guys derust them?
The reason I don’t buy bs engines and suggested to change to different brand with low oil shut down
Some of the generic have low oil shut down with 10hp bs engine 😊
The bolts are metric
Looks a whole lot like no regard to engine RPM to me......
The wood was a tacky way to do it. Get yourself a mini lathe and then you can make spacers out of metal.
There WHAT is when you popped the mag from the engine...you didn't show what you used to do it ... come on man your suposto help us be learning to do this ...
A 10 minute video didn’t need to be 50 minutes long
Just a note: Instead of recording all the wasted talk and time on explaining waiting on bolts etc. just cut the recording until the parts come in then we don't have to listen to a lot of stuff thats a waste of time.
Wood on a rattletrap? Fail