When this is finished, you'll only be a hop, skip and a jump away from an electronic leadscrew installation. A very worthwhile addition to the lathe if my efforts are anything to go by. All the best, John
It’s funny I just watched a video yesterday of you building that bench behind where you set and you were talking about your sticker board thinking about putting it where it is now. I love watching your videos, you do such great work, as always thank you for your time and knowledge.
Hi Ade, I want to do a similar project both on my lathe and my mill. I’ve watched all your videos on the subject and you mention links to the necessary parts. Please can you point me in the right direction to find the parts list. Also have you ever done a video on obtaining materials for hobby machining? Love your work and the relaxed style of presentation.
Nice, you’re leading me the way. I had just realised I got fed up with manually cranking my Unimat 4, which has no leadscrew disengagement option, back and forth over and over again. So I want a fast speed to simulate the disengagement option and a slow adjustable power feed as an added bonus. So I am paying close attention to your work!
Hi BR , maybe when I eventually change the motor to a 3 phase with a VFD I could go down that route . In all honesty though , I don't do a huge deal of screwcutting . Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade I have recently bought a Warco Super Mini Lathe including a 4952 QCTP (?) but am struggling with it. I cannot see how the stud that screws in to the holder is locked as even if you lock the knurled adj nut with the cap head screw the stud can still move in the holder. Am I doing something wrong? Sorry can’t send by facebook as I don’t use it.
Hi Michael . I am not familiar with this tool post but I am guessing that you need to lock the studs down hard into the toolholder before fitting the adjuster and lockscrew. Perhaps use two nuts locked together to tighten them down and maybe use some threadlock in the hole. Hope this helps . Cheers Ade.
At 1:40 when turning that first pulley it looks like shaft hole in the pulley was not centered? Won't that make the entire job have some runout? I love your youtube channel by the way. 🙂
That hole is only a clearance that allows the thread inside it to be shorter . The arbour screws on the thread on the end of the leadscrew . It does look a little worse than it is due to the burr in the hole from facing . I have tried it as an assembly on the leadscrew and although there is some runout due to the leadscrew threads , it is true enough for its purpose . maybe less than 0.1 mm . Happy days . Cheers Ade
nice work sir
Good work are, Somerset Mike.
Very pleased that TH-cam recommended this, I've been planning to do something very similar with my (very ancient) lathe. Another worthy subscription.
When this is finished, you'll only be a hop, skip and a jump away from an electronic leadscrew installation. A very worthwhile addition to the lathe if my efforts are anything to go by.
All the best,
John
Gday Ade, great job as always, I’m going to miss the noise of the old setup, cheers mate
It actually worked very well . but you are on your own with missing the noise I think. Thanks for watching Matty . Cheers Ade.
Looking forward to another Ace Ade series 😀
Thanks for sharing.
It’s funny I just watched a video yesterday of you building that bench behind where you set and you were talking about your sticker board thinking about putting it where it is now. I love watching your videos, you do such great work, as always thank you for your time and knowledge.
Such a professional result. Looking forward to the next instalment. 👏👏👍😀
Lovely job Ade. I love these videos about machine upgrades and mods. Thanks for the video. Cheers, Craig
Hi Ade, I want to do a similar project both on my lathe and my mill. I’ve watched all your videos on the subject and you mention links to the necessary parts. Please can you point me in the right direction to find the parts list. Also have you ever done a video on obtaining materials for hobby machining? Love your work and the relaxed style of presentation.
Nice work Ade, you are always a pleasure to watch, calm and efficient it is almost relaxing to see you in action. Enjoyed, cheers mate!
Nice job. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Hi Ade as always it was interesting to see how you make thing's, thanks for your video 👍😎
Thanks ADES
Very nicely done
Thanks for watching John . means a lot. Cheers Ade.
Nice, thanks for share ... your channel is great!
Very nice, thanks Ade
Nice, you’re leading me the way. I had just realised I got fed up with manually cranking my Unimat 4, which has no leadscrew disengagement option, back and forth over and over again. So I want a fast speed to simulate the disengagement option and a slow adjustable power feed as an added bonus. So I am paying close attention to your work!
just slip the banjo out or remove a gear and sorted . Cheers Ade.
Nice upgrade, well worth it. If you do like the convenience an electronic leadscrew controller would be the next thing to look into.
Hi BR , maybe when I eventually change the motor to a 3 phase with a VFD I could go down that route . In all honesty though , I don't do a huge deal of screwcutting . Cheers Ade.
As Ades makes his workshop machines quieter, The more we can here his brain tick.
That is going to drive me nuts. :)
Great video ade, keep'um coming..
nice neat job again cheers
Nice one Ade
Thanks for sharing 👍
nice project Ade. can you tell us about the counter bore tool and shamfering tool....supplier etc.
Hi Simon . I think the counterbore set were from Amazon and the Chamfering bits were from RDG tools . Cheers Ade.
Thank you
Thanks Ade.
Looking good Ade.
Thanks Ade
Hi Ade I have recently bought a Warco Super Mini Lathe including a 4952 QCTP (?) but am struggling with it. I cannot see how the stud that screws in to the holder is locked as even if you lock the knurled adj nut with the cap head screw the stud can still move in the holder. Am I doing something wrong? Sorry can’t send by facebook as I don’t use it.
Hi Michael . I am not familiar with this tool post but I am guessing that you need to lock the studs down hard into the toolholder before fitting the adjuster and lockscrew. Perhaps use two nuts locked together to tighten them down and maybe use some threadlock in the hole. Hope this helps . Cheers Ade.
👍
you can buy a ready made timing pulley dear,
I think you have just summed up the difference between a fitter and an Engineer . Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade, what is the stepper motor specs and where did you purchase it? Cheers, Kelvin
Nice work Ade. You know when you finish this mod, you will be half way to an electronic leadscrew?..
Then just add an rotary encoder to the spindle, and you'll never worry about change gears again
Well, not quite that simple! I've used the Clough42 setup on mine, works fine, more than a year of use.
Me first
At 1:40 when turning that first pulley it looks like shaft hole in the pulley was not centered?
Won't that make the entire job have some runout?
I love your youtube channel by the way. 🙂
That hole is only a clearance that allows the thread inside it to be shorter . The arbour screws on the thread on the end of the leadscrew . It does look a little worse than it is due to the burr in the hole from facing . I have tried it as an assembly on the leadscrew and although there is some runout due to the leadscrew threads , it is true enough for its purpose . maybe less than 0.1 mm . Happy days . Cheers Ade
@@ade63dug thanks for the reply, I understand better now. 👍
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Great start to the modifications Ade, nice looking job. Cheers, Jon