Our £1500 Budget Superbike Is FINALLY Fixed | Kawasaki ZX-9R Clutch Replacement | NOOB Guide!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Welcome to our video tutorial on how to replace a motorcycle clutch! Todays video features our budget channel superbike, the Kawasaki ZX-9R!
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End Credits:
Rip & Tear - Mick Gordon (DOOM 2016 Soundtrack)
Rip & Tear - The Anchor (Cover)
Thanks for watching.
The E1 and E2 versions of the ZX9R ticked so many of the boxes from sporty excitement to long distance practicality that they are NEVER to be scorned
friend of mine has a ZX9R with a Carpenter Racing overbore kit.... all the tuning goodies that go with. I'd take thatover spending $28,000 for a Panigale, just about anything else .. except a Daytona 955i w/sinagle sided swinger, that triple inductin 'howl' .. buy a old ZX9, well maintaine, Install a Carpenter Racing kit ..you really have something speciale and very very fast!
@@carlmayer691 By all means go ahead, but they really don't need it! Stock they are fast af anyway, 0-60 in 3 secs and more than enough 175+mph top end. A few relatively cheap upgrades, and some easy modifications, and a few carb tweaks and they beat those 200hp expensive bikes with too many electronics on 0-60 times and a quarter mile easy (as they already do beat some stock lol), the expensive new bikes just mainly have a higher top speed that will rarely be used.
Hi bud. Great effort.
I've done this myself by on my zx6r.
Was really surprised you guess at torque setting! £17 you can pick up a torque wrench to do the job and then you have the tool aswell. Not having the correct torque on those springs is crazy imo. To tight and its a heavy clutch (probably your issue) and to loose the clutch will slip.
The thought of over tightening the clutch cover is another issue.
Put the bike on side stand and you don't need to drop the oil.
Remove the clutch cable and the lever that goes through the clutch cover ( just slides out) so the clutch cover just fits straight back on to the engine, then slide the lever back though the cover and re-attach the cable.
We do learn from our mistakes. I'm no professional mechanic and do all my own maintenance.
You got the job down but honestly I'd reopen it and torque those springs properly.
Again, do it on the side stand. It will cost £17 for the wrench and a new gasket.
Best of luck Tim. 👍
Solid advice i'd never guess at torque settings it could be all the difference and they are there for a good reason madness if you ask me but oh well we learn from mistakes
If it was my job. I’d definitely use the service manual and an inch per pound torque wrench. Because, If that engine block is damaged from over torquing the bolts, it’s game over for that engine sealing engine fluid (motor oil).
Two things remaining to finish that job if it was me doing it.
First, I would lubricate the clutch cable as preventative maintenance measure while the cable was loosen.
Second, I would use a digital caliper to measure thread space at the clutch lever’s cable adjustment screw located near the handlebar.
Third, I’d now pick up my digital caliper again and measure free play in my clutch lever. On my bike it’s in the range of 2 - 3 millimeters. I don’t know if it is the same for most bikes.
I try to do repair and replacement only if I have the bikes recommended service manual in my hand. Those numbers are really important to get the bike operating safely.
Last thing about the service manual. It should tell the type of gasket sealant to use around the engine covers wiring. A seal by itself is okay, but gasket sealant applied thinly at the wiring and around the bolts holes really does a super great job. Plus, the sealant holds the gasket seal in place while remounting the engine covers.
But that’s just me If I had to do that job.
Good bike that, I know a lad selling a vtr firestorm in Coventry £1000 needs mot but won't need much to get it through if anything
Just bought myself a black zx9r 1998 in the weekend for 1100 GBP, runs absolutely amazing and after a polish the black looks proper aswell!
Insurance and tax on it where I live only costs around 70 GBP a year aswell so its definetly a no brainer!
You're daring to open up the engine, nice work. I'll change my motorcycle tires, brakes chain gears, install frame sliders, and more, but never tackled opening up the engine. Thanks for the video! To spare your knees, I put a towel on the ground and rest on that to work on the bike when possible.
Great video. Good to see you doing the maintenance yourself. So many people get scared of doing or don’t bother. It’s not hard. Loads of manuals out there to help. Keep up the good work.
Wow did I miss something or did you put the old engine oil back in the bike ?!?!!!
Looks nice . Cut 3/4 inches out mid pipe to bring end can more central. Them things fly when you get them revving.
Sod getting an expensive bike ramp, especially if you are not looking into repairing loads of bikes. Get a foam kneeling mat or a set of knee pads or steal a pillow from the house I'm sure you're Mrs won't mind 😂.
I've looked into buying a ramp for years, but realistically how often would I use it & they do just get in your way
I use to feel the same way. I do all the work myself on my bikes. Getting a ramp was one of the best investments I made. Makes the jobs so much easier and faster.
Get yourself a little fold-up stool, your back and your legs will thank you for it.
Beautiful bike, great to see you doing your own bike maintenance..
Oh, just to add.. Awsome Senjutsu T shirt.. 👍👍👍
I like how you had the dirty oil bath to catch any components you drop into it😇😆 Dude change the oil
Curious on what the mileage is on this bike my zx9r i just bought has 30k on it for $1500 usd i got a line of maintenance items im doing it for next coming up riding season.
All good except for too many adverts to sit through.
What a job❤
ttt if it said install em dry you would soak them plates..
Your manual tells you to pre soak the clutch why is it people who have 0 mechanics or engineering skills think they always know better than the company that makes the bikes.
It’s a wet clutch system you don’t know better than the manufacturer.
soaking clutch? if they absorbed anything they would become soft and thus useless
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 o wait are you being serious 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Get yourself a tall bucket for a seat.. I was terrified when I installed a new clutch pack in my Ducati .. dry clutch.. now I can tear the clutch down completely, baskets, clutch pack, springs etc. to the inner casing in under a few minutes.. no gaskets, gasket sealer, nothing..just remove a small carbon fiber coverto expose the clutch. Conversely my Daytona 955i is a PITA.. you have to buy 2 gaskets, one for the clutch cover case, another for the big end, starter clutch/sprag case cover.. Then the starter gears, washers, etc need to be removed before you pull the clutch case off..and all because Triumph in their infinite wisdom, designed the engine so that one clutch cover bolt isn't accessible w/o removing the sprag- starter clutch cover..Not a bad idead to check the driven plates i.e. metal plates for warpage, obvious wear..' bluing"is OK..The drive plates i.e. friction plates your tossing so checking them is a non issue.. Also it's good to take a peek at the basket. Where the drive plate/friction plate 'tangs' slot into the basket, the tangs batter the basket here, you'll see ridges, scalloping on the basket. When the scalloping become severe, it can affect clutch performance. You can lightly knock the ridges down a bit w/emory cloth. But if the gap between tang and basket exceeds spec.. buy a new. You SHOULD measure the entire clutch pack for height spec, along w/ individual drive and driven plates, and the springs. It's this gap between basket and drive plate tangs that gives the Ducati dry clutch that cool signature clinking rattle you hear. The wider the gap, the louder it rattles away. It's an easy job which saves you $200 labor at the dealership..