The knife Mr. Stewart is showing in this video is the Ontario Blackbird SK-5. The steel is 154 CM with a rockwell hardness of 58-60 (which means it's hard enough to maintain a razor sharp edge, but soft enough that you can sharpen it in the field). The blade has a perfectly squared spine which enables you to use it with a ferro rod. I have no relationship with Ontario knives and I have nothing to gain by praising the SK-5. But I just love mine.
A couple of features he left off. 1. Affordability: If you can't afford it forget it. That includes having a spare if you drop it or can't find it for any reason what so ever. 2. It needs to be able to take and hold a good sharp edge and you need a way to touch up that edge with something you can stuff into a pocket and not notice the weight. 3. If it isn't light & compact you are likely to take it off and leave it at camp or in the car so you don't have it with you when you need the blasted thing. 3. The one tool option is for people doing shows and having fun. Reasonable and prudent people trying to enjoy the wilderness have tool kits and learn how to use them. If you are trying to be a preper forget running off to the woods and trying to live like a wild man. It takes about 7 square miles of decent land to live as a hunter gatherer and you still need a support network of friends and a tool kit or you won't last. 4. There is almost no place in the eastern USA that is more than 10 miles from a paved road. It is all either privately owned or state or federal property. If you aren't disabled getting to a road is not beyond your abilities before you starve to death in about 40 days.
1.) one expensive and decent knife will probably outlast both a cheap one and you 2.) unless you decide you're capable of running off and surviving alone in the wilderness and never look back, there's no way you will dull your expensive, decent knife during daily use before you go back home where someone will restore it for you because you have no clue how to do it. Otherwise, you'll know how to sharpen your knife without proper tools. (I mean, not you personally, but the majority of the "survivalists" watching these videos) 3.) what you desrcibed is camping or paranoia. That's where people bring a truckload of tools and supplies with them. 4.) The only smart thing that I can't argue about. 99% of couch experts will never find themselves in a real survival situation where no help is available. Even if they do, they wouldn't require a knife, their only chance would be if a Bear Grylls take them by their hand and bring them home. :D
Great video for the beginner, very well put and clear. I agree with you on most of your points except I would say a drop point will function just as well as a spear point. I love the Ontario Blackbird SK5, it's got all the features of a great survival knife, it's pretty much perfect IMO. I bought it for my dad.
I'm thrilled that I came across you Creek on YT!! I highly recommend your show on The Weather Channel called Fat Guys in the Woods!! Your one show that had featured Rosehips & handmade traps was incredible!! My wife & I learned so much from that!! We love how you show simple survival tips that can easily make a difference between life and death. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Hi Creek. One thing that continues to puzzle me - why is it always assumed that one has access to only one knife - the so-called survival knife? You, yourself, by own admission in the video, carry a Spyderco! I invariably have on me at least my SAK (and sometimes a Leatherman Wave on my belt), irrespective of what else I am carrying. This gives me the flexibility that when considering my "survival knife" I don't have to consider using it for those pesky, fiddly little small knife tasks that bushcrafting are so keen on. I can choose a proper (large) heavy use knife for tough work (like an MOD knife, Esee 6 or RAT 7etc). [Incidentally I actually carry my own made Bushwhacker (8 1/2" blade, 14"overall)] With a decent folding saw (not too large) and my knife complement, there are not many tasks one cannot accomplish. I'm please I came across your video, and wonder if you are still making similar ones.
Great presentation of basic info. All of the six points are important features and while most knives may not have all it brings people very close to makeing a good choice for a knife that will be reliable and functional if called on. Great job.
Hey Creek Im loving your new show. I cant believe I watched this video so long ago & you helped me pick out my sk5 & it's my go to still. Thank you for your part in helping me get back into the woods. Ill come camp with you on the show. I almost got the same rig as you. Just not a sheath from Paul maybe one day.
After re-reading I find everyone is on the right track. I was a Boy Scout and that were I learned to prepare but videos like the one here is just as good for education. Your point of "Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen..." I love and as you note sometimes we make bad choices because they're not based on those factors.
Bruce Nitroxpro Pardon me for chiming in, but I'm sure he means that he would carve a sharp point into a wooden spear, and then harden the wood in a fire. Many outdoorsmen talk about hardening wood that way. I haven't tried it, but now that it came up, it's on my bucket list. Cheers. --Scott
ScottsUtubeWorld You do not "harden wood IN a fire"......that will burn your wood tool up....you harden it in the ground near the fire, but you MUSTbe careful not to bury it too close to the fire or it will still make your wooden tool into charcoal. I know, because I did it on a fish spear that I had worked very hard to carve. Buried it too close to the fire and made it into charcoal which rendered useless thereafter and wasted all my hard work. You want to "heat" the wooden tool, not burn it.
Thank You; a very reasoned and clear presentation that rings true to me. One of the critics here in this blog complained.... "Don't use your knife for that... that's why I use an ax". That misses the point of a "use for everything" tool scenario. A good Survival knife needs to perform a whole toolbox worth of tasks.
Agreed. I think a drop point probably offers the best all around performance, but a clip point works very well also and, because the tip has a more acute profile to it, it will offer more precision/less friction in tasks.
wow finally a good knife video explains and shows in detail. other videos were dudes trying to show off there knifes and talking blah blah blah. so thanks awesome vid
Thanks for the video helps a lot but for driving in tent stakes would a rock or heavy branch be easier? Or maybe add a hatchet or tomahawk for blunt strickes ? Ice pick love that idea it gets very cold here
...I suggest wrapping a bandanna around the pommel, or some such solution. Wonderful tips on looking for quality survival knives. Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing.
So do you believe that the ka-bar bk2 has the wrong tip to be a really good survival knife? It has the drop point design. Just wanting to know your opinion on that particular knife. Great Videos btw ☺
Excellent common sense thoughts! You are right about knife size. So many over philosophize this and try to justify their tiny or behemoth knife choice. Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen but generally you are correct. Nice job!
Nice video! I would say mine is a 5.5 out of 6, according to this. The butt end isn't flat but depending on what I would want to hammer, I probably still could. Question is, would I want to use my knife as a hammer or would I try to find a rock and spare my knife? Btw, which would you prefer for a survival knife: a serrated or a straight edge blade? - Christine
Would a Mountain Man brand 10" knife be considered a survival knife? I originally bought it for hunting but I'm getting into the survivalist stuff now.
I think Creek Stewart is correct for a 1 knife option. For example if your suddenly in a emergency or something and that's all you had. But in a planned bug out or hiking/camping trip your survival knife is several. For me it's 1. a pocket Knife or multi-tool 2. a Mora 3. a Kukri (11 inch blade), Parang (12 inch blade) or Hatchet. Also, a small saw I carry all the time. If you are skilled 1 knife could work for you but I take the right tool for the job. Sm for small Tasks, Lg for large tasks.
You cannot stress the importance of the full-length blade enough, I am not a fan of partial or rat - tail tangs. You really gotta have the heft and the backbone of a full-time blade. These are great points that all should bear in mind when considering a addition to your blade arsenal.
Very good advice and thank you for driving home the fixed blade, full tang point. I hear about so many people trying to use folders like they are fixed blades, often times buying in the manufactures hype about it having "fixed blade strength." And shame on the manufactures that market their folders that way. A solid slab of steel is going to win every time haha.
A person can be thrust into a survival emergency whenever they leave civilisation and that can happen at any time and you won't always have that nice big survival kit you take to the scrub. In that case, there's only three features you really need to worry about in a "survival" knife. 1: It's legal to carry. After all, a knife is worthless if it's not on you when you need it and stuck in your backpack or survival kit is not on you. It's the same with your survival kit, which is why I personally carry a diy PSK that was adapted from the list in the SAS Survival Guide. 2: The blade steel has respectable wear resistance and if you're reduced to a folder, get one with a strong lock 3: The blade is at least 3 inches long. Anything else describes an out-of-doors belt knife, not something you can be sure is on you when you get stranded and need to stay alive until rescued.
Thank you for the video, no hype, clearly presented and reasoned. I have a blackbird SK5 and it is an excellent knife the 154CM Steel used offers excellent all round performance. All that being said my go to knife is the Fallkniven S1 purely because of how it feels in my hand when I use it, I simply feel more confident when using it. Only point i would add is about not having serrations and having a purely plain edge, feather sticking with a serrated blade is a PITA as are many other tasks.
I enjoy a great carbon blade as good as the next man for hard work, but out of all of my knives I own if I had to take just one it would be my Blackbird SK-5 because of the reasons that were named here, and because if you guys know anything about 154cm you know that with a good heat treat and design its simply awesome.I also do not live near the ocean so I don't have to worry about rust issues so long as I throw some mineral oil on it every once in a blue moon and keep it clean after use.Seriously if your looking for a light knife that can do it all in the right hands check out the Blackbird SK-5 by Ontario. - Stay Frosty!
I never understood why people keep on advertising/mentioning using their knife as a spear. Last thing I'm going to do is risk the potential of my knife/spear sticking into a hog and it running off with it. As for the exposed tang/pommel it is personal preference. I'll stick with a rock.
Use your knife to make the fishing spear, instead of making it into the spear. If you throw it at a large fish, and miss; no need to panic if the tide catches your spear and it gets washed away from you. Use your main knife to make the various tools you need, instead of using it as one of those tools. If you lose or break the tool, make another. If you lose or even break your knife; good luck making another knife.
90% of couch "survival" "experts" will crawl back into their truck and drive home in case they loose their tool. The amount of bad advice and pretentious survivalists is off the roof on youtube...
I have a Gollik Knives SLSR. It’s got a 6.5” blade of .25” thick Sleipner steel at 60HRC. It can baton through steel bars, literally. The maker has a video showing it.
I own a KA-BAR full size 7 inch knife, and I just purchased the smaller version that has a 5 1/4 inch blade length with a 9 1/2 inch overall. I know I can trust my life on this knife not because it is made here in the USA, but it has proven that it can withstand anything you can possibly throw at it and still has the capability to do more. I recommend this knife to anyone who is thinking about getting a great survival knife ( BTW I am also an Eagle Scout )
Actually I've seen the mighty Kabar fail. It is arhat tail tang and the transition from blade to tang is a known weak point. Is it a versatile design yes but full proof and best survival knife design I think it falls short.
As a custom knifemaker let me just say: a spear point is not double-edged unless you sharpen the back side. It simply means that the blade profile is the same on both sides. If you traced the blade on paper and drew a line from the tip to the center of the blade at the hilt, the two halves would mirror each other.
A carbon blade too. Keeps the edge longer and can strike a flint or quartz for sparks. One can make the case for a mirror polish to signal with but it will just smudge up after use so I say a protective coating to prevent rust is best even just a patina. BK2, ESEE 5 and tool steel bushcraft knives are good choices. Axes and machetes are better than knives in some wilderness environments but are less safe and take more practice.
I find carrying more than one knife best, I carry a folding knife around my neck most of the time and a fixed blade bush knife when I feel I may need one with me. For wood processing I use a small hatchet or a folding saw, it`s no big deal to have this stuff with me as most of it weighs next to nothing. My advice to anyone is to get yourself a really good belt and attach any EDC gear to it, that way it`s always with you.
That's the same knife in the video. The Ontario SK-5 Blackbird outfitted with a Hedgehog Leatherworks Custom Sheath. The sheath alone is $300+ along with the knife $100+. It's a pretty expensive rig but it's very high quality.
Some good points, Creek, but you eliminated all the Mora, Hultfors and most of the Helle blades by specifying a full tang as a must have. I have to respectfully disagree with that requirement. The Blackbird SK5 is a great knife and I like the removable scales.
Good points! However, I dont think the spear point is necessary. A good drop point will be fine and it will still pierce with a sharp point.If Dave Canterbury can survive with a basic 1095 full tang, drop point, 5+ inch knife, Im sure its possible for anybody who actually has some skill to survive. I would just sharpen a piece of sapling and use that for my spear, my knife never leaves my side so to speak...
Dave would make the point that the knife should be carbon steel to use it for making fire with a stone of hardness 7 or above. Frankly, I use a fire steel/striker combination and use a strong, corrosion resistant knife instead. My knife is hardened with an exotic process which leaves the cutting edge incredibly tough and hard. It isn't an inexpensive knife, however.
It's possibile to do detailed work with a machete (not ideal, a little bit unconfortable), but is much much more difficult to "capinar" (cut tall grass in tropical florests do make way) with a small knife.
The funny thing is, on his web site he sells Mora knives and other 3/4 tang knives at a higher price then the real Mora site does. He is about to start selling his own brand of knives soon, under the WHISKEY KNIVES brand name. Maybe they are all going to be full tang?
I don't think hammering with the pommel or making a spear out of your knife are best practices. Both have better options. Hammering: Rather than having the pointy end of your knife pointing towards your face as you pound a tent peg, simply pick up the nearest rock to hammer with. Spear-making: The knife is your #1 most important survival tool. Do you really want to risk damaging it or losing it by turning it into a spear? Probably not. If you need a spear that badly, you might consider just using your blade to just sharpen the stick itself. Fire-harden the tip if necessary.
i disagree with what you said about full tang blades only because the gerber LMF2. its 3/4 tang is just as strong (so far at least) and it is insulated from electric shock
Hi can anyone please tell me how to know the quality of the knives just by looking at it , because in my area , the shopkeeper does not know what quality of the blade . Please let me know , thanks .
I think the BK7 is the closest to the best all around knife I own. Great handle, full tang, not too big not too small, not too thick not too thin, flat grind, pointy yet strong tip, tolerable weight
I can't believe that a survival instructor of this stature repeats that of making a spear by tying it on the knife at one end ... that really belongs in the movies of the 70's
The knife Mr. Stewart is showing in this video is the Ontario Blackbird SK-5. The steel is 154 CM with a rockwell hardness of 58-60 (which means it's hard enough to maintain a razor sharp edge, but soft enough that you can sharpen it in the field). The blade has a perfectly squared spine which enables you to use it with a ferro rod. I have no relationship with Ontario knives and I have nothing to gain by praising the SK-5. But I just love mine.
A couple of features he left off.
1. Affordability: If you can't afford it forget it. That includes having a spare if you drop it or can't find it for any reason what so ever.
2. It needs to be able to take and hold a good sharp edge and you need a way to touch up that edge with something you can stuff into a pocket and not notice the weight.
3. If it isn't light & compact you are likely to take it off and leave it at camp or in the car so you don't have it with you when you need the blasted thing.
3. The one tool option is for people doing shows and having fun. Reasonable and prudent people trying to enjoy the wilderness have tool kits and learn how to use them. If you are trying to be a preper forget running off to the woods and trying to live like a wild man. It takes about 7 square miles of decent land to live as a hunter gatherer and you still need a support network of friends and a tool kit or you won't last.
4. There is almost no place in the eastern USA that is more than 10 miles from a paved road. It is all either privately owned or state or federal property. If you aren't disabled getting to a road is not beyond your abilities before you starve to death in about 40 days.
1.) one expensive and decent knife will probably outlast both a cheap one and you
2.) unless you decide you're capable of running off and surviving alone in the wilderness and never look back, there's no way you will dull your expensive, decent knife during daily use before you go back home where someone will restore it for you because you have no clue how to do it. Otherwise, you'll know how to sharpen your knife without proper tools. (I mean, not you personally, but the majority of the "survivalists" watching these videos)
3.) what you desrcibed is camping or paranoia. That's where people bring a truckload of tools and supplies with them.
4.) The only smart thing that I can't argue about. 99% of couch experts will never find themselves in a real survival situation where no help is available. Even if they do, they wouldn't require a knife, their only chance would be if a Bear Grylls take them by their hand and bring them home. :D
Great video for the beginner, very well put and clear. I agree with you on most of your points except I would say a drop point will function just as well as a spear point.
I love the Ontario Blackbird SK5, it's got all the features of a great survival knife, it's pretty much perfect IMO. I bought it for my dad.
Your dad is a lucky man!
I'm thrilled that I came across you Creek on YT!! I highly recommend your show on The Weather Channel called Fat Guys in the Woods!! Your one show that had featured Rosehips & handmade traps was incredible!! My wife & I learned so much from that!!
We love how you show simple survival tips that can easily make a difference between life and death.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Very nice show👌
I agree with the 6 knife characteristics you speak of. What do you recommend for steel type. Carbon, Stainless, Super steels, etc.
Hi Creek. One thing that continues to puzzle me - why is it always assumed that one has access to only one knife - the so-called survival knife? You, yourself, by own admission in the video, carry a Spyderco! I invariably have on me at least my SAK (and sometimes a Leatherman Wave on my belt), irrespective of what else I am carrying. This gives me the flexibility that when considering my "survival knife" I don't have to consider using it for those pesky, fiddly little small knife tasks that bushcrafting are so keen on. I can choose a proper (large) heavy use knife for tough work (like an MOD knife, Esee 6 or RAT 7etc). [Incidentally I actually carry my own made Bushwhacker (8 1/2" blade, 14"overall)] With a decent folding saw (not too large) and my knife complement, there are not many tasks one cannot accomplish. I'm please I came across your video, and wonder if you are still making similar ones.
Very comprehensive, nicely timed and concise in message! Superb!
Great presentation of basic info. All of the six points are important features and while most knives may not have all it brings people very close to makeing a good choice for a knife that will be reliable and functional if called on. Great job.
Hey Creek Im loving your new show. I cant believe I watched this video so long ago & you helped me pick out my sk5 & it's my go to still. Thank you for your part in helping me get back into the woods. Ill come camp with you on the show. I almost got the same rig as you. Just not a sheath from Paul maybe one day.
My "survival knife" is a Becker BK2 with modifications on the sheath, handle.and blade.
Nice video, man. I'm with you 100%. No hype, no bull. Greatly appreciated.
After re-reading I find everyone is on the right track. I was a Boy Scout and that were I learned to prepare but videos like the one here is just as good for education.
Your point of "Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen..." I love and as you note sometimes we make bad choices because they're not based on those factors.
Good video. I just picked up the Fallkniven A1 - it meets all 6 of the suggested features.
Creek, could you make a video recommending some various models of survival knives?
good advice, I would never lash my knife to a stick, I would make a spear and harden it in a fire. Great very clear vid thanks
Bruce Nitroxpro Pardon me for chiming in, but I'm sure he means that he would carve a sharp point into a wooden spear, and then harden the wood in a fire. Many outdoorsmen talk about hardening wood that way. I haven't tried it, but now that it came up, it's on my bucket list. Cheers. --Scott
ScottsUtubeWorld You do not "harden wood IN a fire"......that will burn your wood tool up....you harden it in the ground near the fire, but you MUSTbe careful not to bury it too close to the fire or it will still make your wooden tool into charcoal. I know, because I did it on a fish spear that I had worked very hard to carve. Buried it too close to the fire and made it into charcoal which rendered useless thereafter and wasted all my hard work. You want to "heat" the wooden tool, not burn it.
spiritpath1 Thanks for the heads-up before I burn my hard work. I think it was Ray Mears who hardened wood tent stakes. I can't wait to try it.
Your very welcome ScottsUtubeWorld.
Thank You; a very reasoned and clear presentation that rings true to me. One of the critics here in this blog complained.... "Don't use your knife for that... that's why I use an ax". That misses the point of a "use for everything" tool scenario. A good Survival knife needs to perform a whole toolbox worth of tasks.
are you going to make any new SOS Survival on the weather channel
i have to say im new to making knifes and looking to build myself one. this video has helped me alot on the fetchers i want and need thank you
Thank you very much buddy for awesome info. Plz tell us something about blade material.
Best knife video on the internet
Laconic, clear and very useful. Great video. Thanks.
Agreed. I think a drop point probably offers the best all around performance, but a clip point works very well also and, because the tip has a more acute profile to it, it will offer more precision/less friction in tasks.
All excellent basic points!
wow finally a good knife video explains and shows in detail. other videos were dudes trying to show off there knifes and talking blah blah blah. so thanks awesome vid
Thanks for the video helps a lot but for driving in tent stakes would a rock or heavy branch be easier? Or maybe add a hatchet or tomahawk for blunt strickes ? Ice pick love that idea it gets very cold here
Awesome and straight to the point, plus you have a really good knife.
Hi. How about the guard ? Is this important or not ( in your opinion ) ? Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for this!! What about serrations vs not?
...I suggest wrapping a bandanna around the pommel, or some such solution. Wonderful tips on looking for quality survival knives. Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing.
So do you believe that the ka-bar bk2 has the wrong tip to be a really good survival knife? It has the drop point design. Just wanting to know your opinion on that particular knife. Great Videos btw ☺
The perfect survival knife! Is there such a thing?
Excellent common sense thoughts! You are right about knife size. So many over philosophize this and try to justify their tiny or behemoth knife choice. Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen but generally you are correct. Nice job!
I agree with everything. I use the full-sized Ka-bar But I will always carry a smaller knife too.
Nice video! I would say mine is a 5.5 out of 6, according to this. The butt end isn't flat but depending on what I would want to hammer, I probably still could. Question is, would I want to use my knife as a hammer or would I try to find a rock and spare my knife? Btw, which would you prefer for a survival knife: a serrated or a straight edge blade? - Christine
I would really like to check this knife out in person. Looks good to me.
Would a Mountain Man brand 10" knife be considered a survival knife? I originally bought it for hunting but I'm getting into the survivalist stuff now.
YAY!!! My survival knife meets all your expectations!
I think Creek Stewart is correct for a 1 knife option. For example if your suddenly in a emergency or something and that's all you had. But in a planned bug out or hiking/camping trip your survival knife is several. For me it's 1. a pocket Knife or multi-tool 2. a Mora 3. a Kukri (11 inch blade), Parang (12 inch blade) or Hatchet. Also, a small saw I carry all the time.
If you are skilled 1 knife could work for you but I take the right tool for the job. Sm for small Tasks, Lg for large tasks.
You cannot stress the importance of the full-length blade enough, I am not a fan of partial or rat - tail tangs. You really gotta have the heft and the backbone of a full-time blade. These are great points that all should bear in mind when considering a addition to your blade arsenal.
Very good advice and thank you for driving home the fixed blade, full tang point. I hear about so many people trying to use folders like they are fixed blades, often times buying in the manufactures hype about it having "fixed blade strength." And shame on the manufactures that market their folders that way. A solid slab of steel is going to win every time haha.
A person can be thrust into a survival emergency whenever they leave civilisation and that can happen at any time and you won't always have that nice big survival kit you take to the scrub. In that case, there's only three features you really need to worry about in a "survival" knife.
1: It's legal to carry. After all, a knife is worthless if it's not on you when you need it and stuck in your backpack or survival kit is not on you. It's the same with your survival kit, which is why I personally carry a diy PSK that was adapted from the list in the SAS Survival Guide.
2: The blade steel has respectable wear resistance and if you're reduced to a folder, get one with a strong lock
3: The blade is at least 3 inches long.
Anything else describes an out-of-doors belt knife, not something you can be sure is on you when you get stranded and need to stay alive until rescued.
It isn't very often I agree with everything in a youtube video. In my opinion. You are correct on every single point. incidentally, I carry the BK2.
Thank you for the video, no hype, clearly presented and reasoned. I have a blackbird SK5 and it is an excellent knife the 154CM Steel used offers excellent all round performance. All that being said my go to knife is the Fallkniven S1 purely because of how it feels in my hand when I use it, I simply feel more confident when using it. Only point i would add is about not having serrations and having a purely plain edge, feather sticking with a serrated blade is a PITA as are many other tasks.
I agree on most points. Not the length or the spear point. I prefer smaller and a drop point of the puukko model blade.
Creek do you still use the OKC Blackbird knife. If not what have you gon to nowadays?
I enjoy a great carbon blade as good as the next man for hard work, but out of all of my knives I own if I had to take just one it would be my Blackbird SK-5 because of the reasons that were named here, and because if you guys know anything about 154cm you know that with a good heat treat and design its simply awesome.I also do not live near the ocean so I don't have to worry about rust issues so long as I throw some mineral oil on it every once in a blue moon and keep it clean after use.Seriously if your looking for a light knife that can do it all in the right hands check out the Blackbird SK-5 by Ontario. - Stay Frosty!
What rust resident steel types do you suggest for really tight budgets that are really good quality for the price
Hey creek I need help. I wanna survive in the woods with only a knife. So do you have any tips for an novice survival man?
I never understood why people keep on advertising/mentioning using their knife as a spear. Last thing I'm going to do is risk the potential of my knife/spear sticking into a hog and it running off with it. As for the exposed tang/pommel it is personal preference. I'll stick with a rock.
Fish
Use your knife to make the fishing spear, instead of making it into the spear. If you throw it at a large fish, and miss; no need to panic if the tide catches your spear and it gets washed away from you. Use your main knife to make the various tools you need, instead of using it as one of those tools. If you lose or break the tool, make another. If you lose or even break your knife; good luck making another knife.
Maybe dont throw it and use it as a melee weapon
CrazySpinach 79 Even if you don't throw it, you still run the risk of it sticking in a pig/bear/deer and the spear breaking and it running off
90% of couch "survival" "experts" will crawl back into their truck and drive home in case they loose their tool. The amount of bad advice and pretentious survivalists is off the roof on youtube...
Very informative vid. Love the clarity with which each point is explained. Subscribed, obviously:)
The knife shown is reflective which I consider important. A knife that shines in the sun can be used as a signaling device like a mirror.
I have a Gollik Knives SLSR. It’s got a 6.5” blade of .25” thick Sleipner steel at 60HRC. It can baton through steel bars, literally. The maker has a video showing it.
Very good video, strait to the point. Thank you!
Thanks nice clear video. it should clear up alot of debate. I love the blackbird sk-5
what a great presentation, thanks,what knife do you recommend
Do you prefer stainless steel or carbon steel?
I own a KA-BAR full size 7 inch knife, and I just purchased the smaller version that has a 5 1/4 inch blade length with a 9 1/2 inch overall. I know I can trust my life on this knife not because it is made here in the USA, but it has proven that it can withstand anything you can possibly throw at it and still has the capability to do more. I recommend this knife to anyone who is thinking about getting a great survival knife
( BTW I am also an Eagle Scout )
Actually I've seen the mighty Kabar fail. It is arhat tail tang and the transition from blade to tang is a known weak point. Is it a versatile design yes but full proof and best survival knife design I think it falls short.
Blade material,stainless? or carbon? might need to have seven features on your review?
@CampSmarts Thank you. I prefer a straight blade. It's easier to sharpen.
As a custom knifemaker let me just say: a spear point is not double-edged unless you sharpen the back side. It simply means that the blade profile is the same on both sides. If you traced the blade on paper and drew a line from the tip to the center of the blade at the hilt, the two halves would mirror each other.
thank you for the information, this video helped me decide with my survival knife.
A carbon blade too. Keeps the edge longer and can strike a flint or quartz for sparks. One can make the case for a mirror polish to signal with but it will just smudge up after use so I say a protective coating to prevent rust is best even just a patina. BK2, ESEE 5 and tool steel bushcraft knives are good choices. Axes and machetes are better than knives in some wilderness environments but are less safe and take more practice.
I find carrying more than one knife best, I carry a folding knife around my neck most of the time and a fixed blade bush knife when I feel I may need one with me. For wood processing I use a small hatchet or a folding saw, it`s no big deal to have this stuff with me as most of it weighs next to nothing. My advice to anyone is to get yourself a really good belt and attach any EDC gear to it, that way it`s always with you.
Great video but also wouldn't steel matter eg stainless/non-stainless
On your show you give away a survival knife setup, what kind is that? Love the show.
That's the same knife in the video. The Ontario SK-5 Blackbird outfitted with a Hedgehog Leatherworks Custom Sheath. The sheath alone is $300+ along with the knife $100+. It's a pretty expensive rig but it's very high quality.
Some good points, Creek, but you eliminated all the Mora, Hultfors and most of the Helle blades by specifying a full tang as a must have. I have to respectfully disagree with that requirement. The Blackbird SK5 is a great knife and I like the removable scales.
to the point. no punn intended. no overdone intro. well done.
very good explanation in very very simple language and very very useful thing thank you.
My name is James I watch your show . I like your way of teaching I also like your knife
i just got me a ka bar usmc knife. I think it works well
I was going to criticise you on wearing jeans, but your advice is gold.
Phenomenal video! Clearly a man who knows what he's talking about.
When does your schooling start and when plus where?
Yo Creek that looks like good ol' New England... where you based?
Good points! However, I dont think the spear point is necessary. A good drop point will be fine and it will still pierce with a sharp point.If Dave Canterbury can survive with a basic 1095 full tang, drop point, 5+ inch knife, Im sure its possible for anybody who actually has some skill to survive. I would just sharpen a piece of sapling and use that for my spear, my knife never leaves my side so to speak...
Dave would make the point that the knife should be carbon steel to use it for making fire with a stone of hardness 7 or above. Frankly, I use a fire steel/striker combination and use a strong, corrosion resistant knife instead. My knife is hardened with an exotic process which leaves the cutting edge incredibly tough and hard. It isn't an inexpensive knife, however.
Which is more functional between drop point blade vs spear point? Why? Gracias
Thanks Creek, good. Take care.
have a 10 dollar coast fixed blade for general use in woods, KBAR for the bigger task and kill and a folder all 3 125.. and will bet my life on them
Great video and great points
It's possibile to do detailed work with a machete (not ideal, a little bit unconfortable), but is much much more difficult to "capinar" (cut tall grass in tropical florests do make way) with a small knife.
The funny thing is, on his web site he sells Mora knives and other 3/4 tang knives at a higher price then the real Mora site does. He is about to start selling his own brand of knives soon, under the WHISKEY KNIVES brand name. Maybe they are all going to be full tang?
Thank you Sir!. Very valid points indeed. Thank you for the advice.
What's the knife that you are using in this video? Thanks.
Ontario sk5
Great video, really helped
I don't think hammering with the pommel or making a spear out of your knife are best practices. Both have better options.
Hammering: Rather than having the pointy end of your knife pointing towards your face as you pound a tent peg, simply pick up the nearest rock to hammer with.
Spear-making: The knife is your #1 most important survival tool. Do you really want to risk damaging it or losing it by turning it into a spear? Probably not. If you need a spear that badly, you might consider just using your blade to just sharpen the stick itself. Fire-harden the tip if necessary.
i disagree with what you said about full tang blades only because the gerber LMF2. its 3/4 tang is just as strong (so far at least) and it is insulated from electric shock
Full tang always, a neck knife & a heavy blade knife to cover all jobs..
I also carry a machete, just for hacking thru brush.
so what do you think of the becker bk2?
Hi can anyone please tell me how to know the quality of the knives just by looking at it , because in my area , the shopkeeper does not know what quality of the blade . Please let me know , thanks .
I prefer the Ontario rak it doesn't have a flat pommel but it does the job
I think the BK7 is the closest to the best all around knife I own. Great handle, full tang, not too big not too small, not too thick not too thin, flat grind, pointy yet strong tip, tolerable weight
Great points.
what knife are you using in this video?
I would recommend the full size.
Good video, makes a lot of sense
Awesome Creek, thank you!
Hi. What knife?
Great video man
most important thing is a good steel which has been well heat treated.
I can't believe that a survival instructor of this stature repeats that of making a spear by tying it on the knife at one end ... that really belongs in the movies of the 70's