You have introduced the world to $5,000 brake levers. I don't know how many times throughout this series that I've whispered "hand made" under my breath.
This is called MAD. Machining Aided Design (I just made it up and it's my approach on designing too even I own a CNC milling machine). You can do this process with a CNC machine alone but it takes a lot of iterations and by doing so material, setups and time too. By shaping it "live" you get a much better understanding of where you are and where you want to be. I think it's more efficient than CNC only. Iterations by hand are quicker and true to live at the moment you working on it. I taught students that you cannot judge a design on a computer screen only. E.g. for small stuff; you have to hold it as a first to judge the shape only. 3D printing has it's merits here but the real material tells the whole story. Especially mechanical things have extra dimensions you can only judge when build like real. Motion, sound and weight especially. Thank you for sharing this inspirational content. I'm enjoying every minute of it. Jig making on it's own is a big lesson to get to a reliable result. For starters it's seems lost time but the payback makes it all worth. Thank you Paul, thank you Mich. Best, Job
Good comments! I agree with you on shaping it "live". Until you hold the part in your hand, no computer screen can give you as much information. And sometimes, as I'm working on a part, the shape will change as I go through the process. I like that because I'm not held by a drawing on a screen. Thanks for watching!
" I can talk metric" :) Artisinal crafting with lovely combination of tight machining and hand finishing. Great looking levers, like a handmade version of Speed Dial Ultimate.
What a great content, its at the end when you see the truly difference between the industrial one and the handcrafted. Its a pleasure to see one of this videos once a week, Thanks!
We do some real nice stuff with Aluminum like this as well at QA1. Some of our machines are real great. This is great stuff to watch and learn, such nice work. I’m excited to own some of your components soon for my old Redline
You should build some stem converters. Id love to be able to put 7/8 or 7/8 w/1 inch clamp section apehangers on a 1 1/8 threadless triple tree bicycle fork.
Wish I would have much more time to watch all of your videos, you're brilliant! Really educational for a young metal craftmanship oriented (welder) guy like me, truly amazing content! Of course I'll try to catch up as fast as I can. Thanks Paul!
Paul, again fantastic work with dito results! I find your exploits in your workshop extremely inspiring, your enthousiam feeds my motivation on trying to make one-off upgrade an/or replacement parts an components for my mountainbike and classic cars and motorbikes. I hope I have enough years left to grow anywhere near your level of competence! Thank you and Mitch as well for these video's! Happy greetings from the Netherlands (Europe)!
it takes off more one way than the other- Because one direction is "Conventional Milling" and the other direction is "Climb Milling" - is usually worse with soft stuff like Aluminum it seems to me?
I don't think it takes off more one way than the other, it's more to do with the pressure involved, the chance of the tool "grabbing", and the surface finish. CNC machine are always climb milling, they have zero backlash and it is more efficient. On a manual mill there is usually some backlash, so that's why you have to be careful taking big cuts when climb milling. It's not pretty when using a larger end mill that grabs due to the backlash. Make sense?
Hi Paul. Like your work and the you are an inspiration. How about a video on making hubs? I saw the video on the replica suspension frame bicycle with the bronze hubs and thought that would be nice to see.
Man, might have been 3 episodes, which to some might seem like a lot for "just" some levers, but it could have been 4. Was super interesting watching the process of figuring out things as you went along.
wow, in my BIG ignorance I tought the wood file was actually a "bigger-teeth-file" for metals... I'm not so used to work with metals that I tought impossible to use the wood file on Aluminium. I take this occasion to ask you what would be the difference in using 7000 series Aluminium (e.g. 7075)? A part from price, in terms of resistance during use it would be a better choice, maybe some problems during the machining process?
The brake lever could have been made from 7075 or 6061. Doesn't make a huge difference. 7075 is a harder material, so it will take longer to machine. 7075 is also harder to source; 6061 is more common for sure. Hope I have answered your questions.
@@paulbrodie Thank you! :). Only another curiosity, considering your experience, the time, and all the factors involved in the making of these levers (of which I can only imagine a small part), how much would they cost?
@@paulbrodie of course they are not for selling, I was just asking your opinion in order to judge how much Paul's or other niche brands are worth the price they ask for their product or if they play the "barely-unobtanium card" and have a lot of profit in order to compensate the little amount pf purchases. Let's say I spend 30$ for the raw material, how much hours of milling + "manual" work does it takes? speaking with an Italian ex-brake builders that now only make cnc parts for motorcycles, he said how is annoyied by customers that want the piece sooner that it would be ready: for my point of view I replied that is not arrogance but a mere lack of experience. On youtube you can see the final product ready in few minutes, but the video skip A LOT of time!
Are these running U-brakes? Just curious why there's no spring which you get on V brake levels (or at least the Avids I run). Love the look of these. They remind me of the short lived MTB Campy group-sets.
The spring that actually makes the pads/brakes return to their original position is always in the brake itself on all types of cable actuated brakes (or at least i'm pretty sure). Some V brake levers have return springs, some don't (like the ancient SRAM levers that I have laying around somewhere).
Yes they will be connected to U-brakes in the future. Adding a spring to the lever is another level of complexity and I was trying to keep them as simple as possible.
Hi Paul, One thing that I just thought about, how do you calculate the lever pull ratio? This was never a thought until the V brake came out & all of a sudden you had a market with different ratios for different brakes or some (Avid) which gave you options to change how the lever pull felt.
I measured the distance between the pivot and cable end on a bunch of levers I had, and then chose what I thought would be best. We will see if my intuition served me well :)
Hello Paul, There is a subject I would like your input on, cold setting. I would like to know if it's possible to cold set a rear 135mm spaced frame to a 110mm?
Your work is an inspiration as always but I was wondering how you get the cable in? Did I miss the slot on the lever so the barrel (cable end) and cable can be inserted or do you have a special connection that let's them screw together?
I think we showed that in the Shop Tour video. Take a piece of aluminum and rub it across the file, parallel to the teeth. This will remove the filings with damaging the file.
@@paulbrodie well, they were used compared to straight from the mill so i'm curious as to see what movement one of your used levers has ! thanks for showing and i'm exited for new videos!
@@Kayyyman Well, my "used" levers came off my bicycles up stairs in the shop that is loosely called "my museum". Bicycles that aren't new at all, but have had very little use. So, I call them "used" but really the condition is "as new". Thanks for watching!
Well done Paul!, Cardboard CAD I like to call it. I have had customers bring me "Sketches" of parts they want on scrap cardboard drawn with a Paint marker! They just can't grasp the concept of precision & skill involved with making parts. One customer did this and I had to figure out an easy way to test what he sent me. My friend has a Lazer, and I asked him to cut me out the part on 1\8 acrylic, he received the part then made any corrections. Craftsmen like yourself will never get due compensation for their work. I cringe at the thought of someone crashing and marking up these levers. I would render these levers to "Display" only.
great i can feel your passion and expertise for this work all along the video , i am sure you are not short on projects to do but may i ask if it could be possible to chat with you about a bicycle chassis modd ? Thank You very much for sharing your knowledge with us , Cheers from the East + Be Free of that Covid SH** and hopefully you will return with a reply on this
Yes, I probably could have, but the 1/4" belt sander wants to "follow" the existing shape because it is so flexible, whereas the file is very hard and I can use it to "shape" the lever to what I have in mind. Make sense?
Beautiful design and finished product. The Autosol polish you are using ( I have used and loved it for years) is not their Aluminum product. I got my gold tube from Lee Valley or Canadian Tire. Neither sell the Aluminium version. Have you tried the Aluminum version ? www.autosol.com/product_p/1824.htm
You have introduced the world to $5,000 brake levers. I don't know how many times throughout this series that I've whispered "hand made" under my breath.
The paul components levers are quite nice, and run at about $200 per lever... so...
@@weareallbeingwatched4602 I just ordered a polished aluminum Love Lever new in the box for $139 total, free shipping
@@joshbrekke6374 lovely
There is a beauty in watching a skilled mechanic working with sharp tools....
Thank you Oliver. I tend to think of myself more as a fabricator than a mechanic...
„I can talk metric!“
Made me smile.
Thanks for watching.
This is called MAD. Machining Aided Design (I just made it up and it's my approach on designing too even I own a CNC milling machine). You can do this process with a CNC machine alone but it takes a lot of iterations and by doing so material, setups and time too. By shaping it "live" you get a much better understanding of where you are and where you want to be. I think it's more efficient than CNC only. Iterations by hand are quicker and true to live at the moment you working on it. I taught students that you cannot judge a design on a computer screen only. E.g. for small stuff; you have to hold it as a first to judge the shape only. 3D printing has it's merits here but the real material tells the whole story. Especially mechanical things have extra dimensions you can only judge when build like real. Motion, sound and weight especially. Thank you for sharing this inspirational content. I'm enjoying every minute of it. Jig making on it's own is a big lesson to get to a reliable result. For starters it's seems lost time but the payback makes it all worth. Thank you Paul, thank you Mich. Best, Job
Good comments! I agree with you on shaping it "live". Until you hold the part in your hand, no computer screen can give you as much information. And sometimes, as I'm working on a part, the shape will change as I go through the process. I like that because I'm not held by a drawing on a screen. Thanks for watching!
" I can talk metric" :) Artisinal crafting with lovely combination of tight machining and hand finishing. Great looking levers, like a handmade version of Speed Dial Ultimate.
Amazing work. Also, to see it so humbly is so refreshing.
Thank you very much. We appreciate your comments! 😉
Loved every second of this series. Well done Paul. I bet you could make some amazing modern disc hubs with those skills ;)
Some Paul hubs :)
If I had all these tools and all the time in the world, I’d end up with more scrap than I started with. Loved this series, seems so effortless.
Mr Brodie you really made it an art from how it is made to how customized it was done. It is a piece of yourself. Thanks for sharing your work.
Outstanding brake lever! Much better than market items. Now I know how to make them for my Husky motorcycle!
Thank you William. I ride my bike quite often and still like my levers!
Each leaver is like a piece of jewellery. Very nice work Paul!
Thank you. I might have got carried away a bit, but it was fun :)
What a great content, its at the end when you see the truly difference between the industrial one and the handcrafted. Its a pleasure to see one of this videos once a week, Thanks!
A lot of work but a beautiful result. Well done Paul.
Thank you Andean :)
Nicely done Paul... Very inspirational! :)
Can't believe how much trouble you go to, but a beautiful work of art - and practicle. Thanks guys.
Thanks for watching!
Inspiring work and artistry! I'm learning a ton from these videos. Thank you!
it looks right Paul, and fit for purpose !
I've been using these levers on my Romax, and I really do like them :)
Soooo good in so many ways!
what a work of art, a pleasure to watch someone use a file so well. awesome series
Thanks for liking my file work. Another viewer was horrified that I didn't "lift up" on the back stroke...
Great series. Your skills are awesome!
What a beautiful piece of art. It looks perfect. I send you my best wishes to you 💫. Love this kind of perfection on bikes.
We do some real nice stuff with Aluminum like this as well at QA1. Some of our machines are real great. This is great stuff to watch and learn, such nice work. I’m excited to own some of your components soon for my old Redline
Thanks Josh, I don't have any components for sale, hope you know that?
@@paulbrodie I may have confused you with a different Paul perhaps
@@joshbrekke6374 Yes, you were probably thinking of Paul Components!
You should build some stem converters. Id love to be able to put 7/8 or 7/8 w/1 inch clamp section apehangers on a 1 1/8 threadless triple tree bicycle fork.
Sorry Mike, I'm just not a fan of "ape hangers", but thanks for watching!
You've created a work of art!
Awesome bench work! Patience = perfection!
Wish I would have much more time to watch all of your videos, you're brilliant! Really educational for a young metal craftmanship oriented (welder) guy like me, truly amazing content! Of course I'll try to catch up as fast as I can. Thanks Paul!
Hazi, thanks for watching! Yes, time can be a precious commodity at some stages of life..
Paul, again fantastic work with dito results! I find your exploits in your workshop extremely inspiring, your enthousiam feeds my motivation on trying to make one-off upgrade an/or replacement parts an components for my mountainbike and classic cars and motorbikes. I hope I have enough years left to grow anywhere near your level of competence!
Thank you and Mitch as well for these video's!
Happy greetings from the Netherlands (Europe)!
Hello Netherlands! I have been to Holland and Amsterdam. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
it takes off more one way than the other- Because one direction is "Conventional Milling" and the other direction is "Climb Milling" - is usually worse with soft stuff like Aluminum it seems to me?
I don't think it takes off more one way than the other, it's more to do with the pressure involved, the chance of the tool "grabbing", and the surface finish. CNC machine are always climb milling, they have zero backlash and it is more efficient. On a manual mill there is usually some backlash, so that's why you have to be careful taking big cuts when climb milling. It's not pretty when using a larger end mill that grabs due to the backlash. Make sense?
Every episode 👌
they are just plain beautiful!
I think my bicycle needs new brake levers . . .
Thank you!
Beautiful 👍😎👍
Hi Paul. Like your work and the you are an inspiration. How about a video on making hubs? I saw the video on the replica suspension frame bicycle with the bronze hubs and thought that would be nice to see.
Thank you Lourens. Yes a hub video is being considered. I do need a set for the 1894 Giraffe bike I have upstairs..
Man, might have been 3 episodes, which to some might seem like a lot for "just" some levers, but it could have been 4. Was super interesting watching the process of figuring out things as you went along.
Thank you Lynx.
Well I liked the first version fine but this one is definitely even better!
Nicely made Paul!
Also, Would love to see a video about the motorcycles in the back!
Thank you. Will see what we can do in the future. My website does have quite a bit on my Excelsior projects: www.flashbackfab.com
wow, in my BIG ignorance I tought the wood file was actually a "bigger-teeth-file" for metals... I'm not so used to work with metals that I tought impossible to use the wood file on Aluminium.
I take this occasion to ask you what would be the difference in using 7000 series Aluminium (e.g. 7075)? A part from price, in terms of resistance during use it would be a better choice, maybe some problems during the machining process?
The brake lever could have been made from 7075 or 6061. Doesn't make a huge difference. 7075 is a harder material, so it will take longer to machine. 7075 is also harder to source; 6061 is more common for sure. Hope I have answered your questions.
@@paulbrodie Thank you! :). Only another curiosity, considering your experience, the time, and all the factors involved in the making of these levers (of which I can only imagine a small part), how much would they cost?
@@cirosmserpico3832 They are unobtanium and as such there is no price.
@@paulbrodie of course they are not for selling, I was just asking your opinion in order to judge how much Paul's or other niche brands are worth the price they ask for their product or if they play the "barely-unobtanium card" and have a lot of profit in order to compensate the little amount pf purchases.
Let's say I spend 30$ for the raw material, how much hours of milling + "manual" work does it takes?
speaking with an Italian ex-brake builders that now only make cnc parts for motorcycles, he said how is annoyied by customers that want the piece sooner that it would be ready: for my point of view I replied that is not arrogance but a mere lack of experience.
On youtube you can see the final product ready in few minutes, but the video skip A LOT of time!
@@cirosmserpico3832 I am retired. I do not make parts for customers anymore.
Looks absolutely spectacular but I think its about 10h more work than I'd be willing to invest in making such parts :-).
Amazing, any heat treat required?
No, I used 6061-T6 and never applied any heat, so the T6 temper was never lost.... 😄
Are these running U-brakes? Just curious why there's no spring which you get on V brake levels (or at least the Avids I run).
Love the look of these. They remind me of the short lived MTB Campy group-sets.
The spring that actually makes the pads/brakes return to their original position is always in the brake itself on all types of cable actuated brakes (or at least i'm pretty sure). Some V brake levers have return springs, some don't (like the ancient SRAM levers that I have laying around somewhere).
Yes they will be connected to U-brakes in the future. Adding a spring to the lever is another level of complexity and I was trying to keep them as simple as possible.
@@paulbrodie makes absolute sense, thanks for replying Paul
@@paulbrodie I hope a handmade u-brake ;)
@@mikep8886 yes of course a handmade U-brake!
How does the cable lay through without the connecting perpendicular slit?
We ran out of time shooting the video so the slot happened afterwards. You have a very good eyecrometer :) Thanks for watching!
The next video I watched was the assembly and saw it in there. I appreciate your videos.
fantastic.
Hi Paul,
One thing that I just thought about, how do you calculate the lever pull ratio? This was never a thought until the V brake came out & all of a sudden you had a market with different ratios for different brakes or some (Avid) which gave you options to change how the lever pull felt.
I measured the distance between the pivot and cable end on a bunch of levers I had, and then chose what I thought would be best. We will see if my intuition served me well :)
Hello Paul,
There is a subject I would like your input on, cold setting. I would like to know if it's possible to cold set a rear 135mm spaced frame to a 110mm?
It could be possible, but not advisable. That's asking too much of the tubing. You could end up with a wrinkle in the tube or worse.
@@paulbrodie Appreciate your advice.
Your work is an inspiration as always but I was wondering how you get the cable in? Did I miss the slot on the lever so the barrel (cable end) and cable can be inserted or do you have a special connection that let's them screw together?
Jamie, you have a good eye! There wasn't time in the video, so the little slot happened a few days later...
Try Shimano BL-M950, Avid SD Ultimate or Paul Love Levers for slop that would be a fair comparison...no slop there as well... ;)
What do you use to clean the filings out of the files after your done?
I think we showed that in the Shop Tour video. Take a piece of aluminum and rub it across the file, parallel to the teeth. This will remove the filings with damaging the file.
Very very nice! Not completely honest comparing to used levers at the end but i get it ;D
Well, I'm sorry if you don't think I'm honest.
@@paulbrodie well, they were used compared to straight from the mill so i'm curious as to see what movement one of your used levers has !
thanks for showing and i'm exited for new videos!
@@Kayyyman Well, my "used" levers came off my bicycles up stairs in the shop that is loosely called "my museum". Bicycles that aren't new at all, but have had very little use. So, I call them "used" but really the condition is "as new". Thanks for watching!
17:03 - Holy Crap that Dremel is a beast¡!
O wait... Nevermind.
🤣
Well done Paul!, Cardboard CAD I like to call it. I have had customers bring me "Sketches" of parts they want on scrap cardboard drawn with a Paint marker! They just can't grasp the concept of precision & skill involved with making parts. One customer did this and I had to figure out an easy way to test what he sent me. My friend has a Lazer, and I asked him to cut me out the part on 1\8 acrylic, he received the part then made any corrections. Craftsmen like yourself will never get due compensation for their work. I cringe at the thought of someone crashing and marking up these levers. I would render these levers to "Display" only.
David, thanks for watching and commenting. I use those levers on my Romax. I really like riding that bike :)
great i can feel your passion and expertise for this work all along the video , i am sure you are not short on projects to do but may i ask if it could be possible to chat with you about a bicycle chassis modd ? Thank You very much for sharing your knowledge with us , Cheers from the East + Be Free of that Covid SH** and hopefully you will return with a reply on this
Send me an email. My address is somewhere in the description :)
Awesome job! Loved the trials bike in the background as well! What's your hourly rate? :D
Thank you. My hourly rate is very expensive.
Beasty
Wow
I have a diet consisting entirely of Scotchbrite and Autosol. It's my go to for all aluminium work.
Just for context, when Paul says something is '100 thou' that's .100" of an inch thick. A credit card is .030" of an in thick for comparison.
But that's massive, bigger than two whole millimetres. 😛
@@HollyBoni Yes, 1mm is approx 40 thou, so it's around 2.5mm
Bravo belisimo
"today, i'm going to cnc a brake lever for internet". jeez dude. these levers alone are worth more than my bike...
Could you have not used your 1/4" belt sander instead if files?
Yes, I probably could have, but the 1/4" belt sander wants to "follow" the existing shape because it is so flexible, whereas the file is very hard and I can use it to "shape" the lever to what I have in mind. Make sense?
@@paulbrodie Perfect sense. Thank you.
That sander is cool though.
Beautiful design and finished product. The Autosol polish you are using ( I have used and loved it for years) is not their Aluminum product. I got my gold tube from Lee Valley or Canadian Tire. Neither sell the Aluminium version. Have you tried the Aluminum version ? www.autosol.com/product_p/1824.htm
Thanks for the info! I have not tried the aluminum version.
A Brake 2C edition.
" I can talk metric" .... lol
We need machine which will manufacture the brake lever