A Forgotten Model T (Episode 7) Engine Disassembly
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ม.ค. 2025
- Working on the Model T Engine
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My late father had a neat tool for removing broken bolts, he called an easy out. It was like a reverse tap with deep, sharp threads in the other direction. You drill a hole smaller than the bolt, insert the tool, give it a light tap then twist it out. Worked great.
Walter is a great name for a dog! I'd have never thought of that, but it is a very fitting name... 😎
I'm really enjoying the no music, fast forward action.
Thanks, and Woof to Walter.
Jared; your videos are getting more and more killer by the episode!! Awesome work!
Thanks buddy!
Make sure you replace those 2 piece valves, they are time bombs, it’s definitely a case of when not if, had mine snap on me, uploaded a video of what happened to it as well, awesome job so far, really enjoying it
The inside looks brand new!
I really like the silent-build production.
Great to see all the good advice and tips from viewers too.
I’m saving each episode! You show how by doing! Love that. Can’t stand the ones who talk constantly and you can’t see what they are doing.
You and Walter are great👍🏼
Regards from Germany 🇩🇪
Thanks for making these, ive just started work on my first "T" and these videos are really helpful. Cheers!
NOO! You just had to upload a new "T" video just before my next exam. Must...resist!! Oh wait, I'm already watching it.
Your broken bolt removal method is very similar to my method. I determine what thread I am dealing with and look up the tap drill size for that thread. That drill is the maximum diameter drill used. I start by carefully center punching the bolt, then drill thru with a much smaller drill bit. After breaking thru the bolt (hopefully) I increase the drill size until I approach the tap drill size. I don’t think I have ever actually reached the tap drill size, but when you get close, the remaining threads on the bolt will walk up the drill bit, fully releasing itself from the hole. I then insert a tap to clean out the threads in the hole. This method has not missed yet, including bolts broken off in aluminum.
I am thoroughly enjoying your video series. I really prefer the “no talking” method you use. The added captions when necessary, are a nice touch. 👍
I like your ratcheting tap wrench. I’ll look for one myself. 👍👍
Be sure to have the crank magnafluxed, T cranks are notorious for cracks. Unfortunately, new SCAT replacements are expensive!
07:50 the bolt locks because the heat of the welding expands it, before forcing it to rotate it must be cooled with ice so that it loosens easily, (basic physics) 🤷♂️
I've been waiting for this one! just subscribed!
Excelente trabajo. Lo disfruto mucho, gracias por compartirlo. Un gran abrazo desde Argentina.
Looks to be in amazing condition. How about the water passageways? They look like rust accumulation. Thanks
exelente trabajo y me encanta el sound de los pajaritos (bird)
WOWsers, what a professional as you are :)
03:00 A 1923 Ford T has a planetary gear transmission output ⁉️
Incredible surprise ‼‼ 😳
Yeah, me too. I want to see one disassembled now. I can see two ranges of gears and the bands I just can't work out how reverse works. Gone hunting for a diagram!
Apparently there was quite an art to driving them, a combination of pedal an brakes to be used to change gears.🇦🇺
Great video!
Back in the day we would clamp a pair of vice grips on the broken bolt and tap it with a hammer until it moved no you'd have to clamp it really tight as tight as you could get it
Looks like very little wear - sort of guessed that would be the case. You didn't show the bearing condition but the journals looked good. How are the bearings? Looks like clean it up and put it back together. I would use the same rings if they look good. bet pictures of the ring positions on each piston so you can put them back where they were at assembly.
I noticed the manual calls for the rings to be replaced every 10,000 miles so I ordered new rings. But yeah it looks pretty good. Should be running again soon👍
Pretty neat cylinders for an old lady
To remove broken bolts, first weld a flat washer to the bolt and then weld a nut to the washer
A layman like me would try soak it with WD40.
You cleaned that block like you should have cleaned the frame and body!
Those original two piece valves are prone to breaking and dropping the valve head into the cylinder - the vendors sell modern one piece valves that are more durable.
I’m enjoying your videos. I also have a dog named Walter.
Great job with the restoration. However that’s a dangerous game drilling out the broken bolts. A stud extractor may have worked or may have broken the remaining protruding bolt off at the surface. Drilling into the center and using an extractor is a preferred method of most metal workers. Also oversize drilling and installing a helicoil is another way to save the block if it’s rusted badly in the hole.
Us left hand drill bits for removing broken bolts/studs. Half of the time just drilling the hole will loosen the broken fastener.
I have a set and I did try that👍
Good job 👍👍👍👍
It is amazing 😱
the days of rebuilding engines without needing a full machine shop
There was no ridge to cut before removing pistons?
Lover your videos. I would like to know who did your model t rebuild/babbitt work
I wonder if year 2118 some guy will be doing the same with a 2021 Mustang?
What a fun.
Really...❤️ Love from india...
What do you think the metal wire was for in the magneto area? Alignment and holding it in while before the bolts go in? One more question (pardon my ignorance) but do the valves have to be very precise?
The wire was to prevent the bolt from coming out and falling into the engine. This car mast vibrate like crazy, because every nut has a safety wire or a cotter pin in it. The valve clearance is 1/32”-1/64”👍
I still refer to many of your videos and tell just about everyone these series of decoration videos are mostly what I go by since you’re doing all the work on your own. You make it look easy but I’m sure it’s anything but. We’re there any issues when reassembling the magneto with any of the spacing or gaps of the magnets? I know you want to keep the videos short and don’t go into a lot of detail
Thats awesome! Thanks. I didn’t have any issues with the magneto, but I did buy a rebuilt coil assembly which really helped.
this engine is imortal
Where did you get the windshield shade ? I have been looking for one for my coupe
I had it printed
Looks like I will be heading to the local print shop then . Thanks
@@Robs_Model_T_and_The_Money_Pit I can send you the image file if you want to have it printed. I ordered it from Vista Print
That would be great , thank you
@@Robs_Model_T_and_The_Money_Pit you can email me at jnhclassics@gmail.com and I’ll send you the file👍
Did you have a manual or set of blueprints to work off?
I do have a manual, but I got most of my info from the mtfca forum.
What is a magneto? I'm not familiar with this partbof an engine. Was it an old engine thing or is it still used? What is it's function? Etc
It powers the coil boxes. It’s not used on todays engines
IT'd be nice if modern engines were built to last like this, with rings below the wristpin to support the piston. Basically impossible to get piston slap in an engine like this, and the bores will wear true and wear longer to boot.
Did the earlier engines have a splash scoop on the bearing caps?
Great project and nice work!
I’m not sure. But I don’t think any Model Ts had an oil pump
@@Jerod_Helt There were aftermarket pumps with external lines available, but the originals depended on oil dip from the connecting rods, and the slinging of oil in the bath at the transmission; the oil pipe and funnel carried the residual oil back to the front of the engine for resupply to the pan. The end caps can be "X'd" with a dipper added (also aftermarket it seems) for better lubrication. All that worked as long as the car was level, in a climb the front bearing would starve and knock. "Look out for Number One" might come from those days.
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If you want music from those times you can say it to me if you want. I've been into music from the 1910s to 1930s for half a decade and I know my relatively unknown and great songs from the 1920s and 1930s!
does the engine support high-octane gasoline? imagine putting a contraption to make the car be 4x4 will it have power ???
It puts out about 20hp. I’ve heard it can run off just about anything flammable including whisky. And that it’s incredible off-road because it has great ground clearance and articulation👍
U need 2 clean the pistons and put new piston rings on and hone the cylinders and relap the valves it keeps from from losing compression and the engine will run better 😊😊 OMG 12 19 2O23
El motor básicamente sigue siendo el mismo hasta ahora
👍👍✌️
У меня бабушка этого года рождения. Смотрим твой канал. Привет из России
👍
You obviously have a well equipped shop All the toys one would could want and a lot of experience, but i am perplexed as to why no Teflon or sealant on the liquid connections such as the fuel pump where you installed the brass fittings? You perform as professional there fore wonder why you dropped the ball. I know i am knit picking, But all us perfectionist do, Do we not? I seen a couple other things threw the video but this one bothered me. Fuel leak is a big NO NO! I must add i am impressed at the rest of your work for your age you seem to know the model T very well. i guess you did your home work. kudos
Don’t use impact wrench
Claw hammers are for carpentry! Use a ballpoint or machinists hammer, instead.
Well saw no ridge amazing if it were a today`s car engine you would have a ridge. The steel used today is junk I guess .