Thanks Eford Garage for this very explanatory video! I wouldn’t have even attempted this repair if for not watching this. Your generosity in sharing this video, is a great contribution to your fellow Pontiac G8 owners!
Thank you very much for this clear and straightforward video. I had struggled to find any sort of clear instructions online, or any good repair manual for the process, and actually found a lot of misleading info in my prior searches. Thanks to your video though, it provided clarity on everything, and the process went quite smooth. Pretty much went exactly as yours did, although I had to pull the belt off the idler pulley first, just below the tensioner to give a little extra slack. Also in my case, the rear bottom 7mm stud was on there so darn tight, I ended up destroying my ratcheting 7mm wrench trying to loosen it, but eventually got it off with a 7mm socket on a low profile flexible ratchet that just barely fit.
Thanks for the video. I just checked the manual and it says to remove (and re-install) the alternator mounting bracket from the engine block when doing this job. LOL! That's why I have absolutely no shame in telling people I watch TH-cam videos to get the job done, because the manuals just don't make sense in many cases. FYI: the stud and stud nut torque is 13 pound feet (and the mounting bracket to block bolts are 37 pound feet).
To be honest i dont look at the manuals... of course half the cars dont have them anymore either. Sometimes i think they are written as if it was on the assembly line and everything easy to get to before the car is fully together.
Another thing I found useful was to pull the motor cover off, unbolt the bracket that holds those two big electrical connectors in one piece and gently zip tie them out of the way, helps with vision. It only takes a 13mm socket and about 15 seconds
Most shop manuals were written by people who never have been in a shop or under the hood of a car. I worked for an electrical utility for 35 years as a field engineer and used to be amazed how the reading material was presented in the equipment manuals from the vendors
Well if you are showing a 15 volt charge to your battery then its doing its job and your alternator is doing great!! 14.7 is right where you want to be so if your at 15 then don't worry about changing it.
Do you even still have this same car? I see this video in particular is a couple years old. And then I start reading some of the questions people are asking about finding different parts and what not. Im not sure why some people have such difficulty finding parts or anything for this car. I've never rely had any issues with finding ANY parts there are literally hundreds of different retailers online to choose from for different parts its ridiculous! Lol I have had a problem location the carpet insert for the trunk lid.
The alternator was an issue in town in stock yes. Had a few back order parts over the years. But of course g8 specific parts can be had to come by do too only being produced for 2 years. At the time this car was about 11 years old alot of parts stores slow down inventory on anything past 10years old and with low production numbers some just dont keep parts in stock.
longer bolts? If longer bolts that could prove to be a pain and im not sure may have to move some stuff across from it in order to get them out i inner fender should be able to move a little too
that alternator looks like it was already new. man that looks like a pain to do but ive done one on a 96 ford Taurus a few years ago, you know the one where you have to drop the sub frame... ill do any car before i do a taurus- sable ever again.
i know that is what got me it looked almost new, of course the new one i got failed right of the bat, took the seconded new one to work. forgot that dropping a sub frame is crazy to replace one lol
I noticed in the comments that you said you had to do it twice cause your new one was a dud. Is this common, cause I just replaced mine and it didn't help at all. The alternator warning light is still there and it quickly went into battery saving mode. Looking at it in engineering mode the battery is at 11.4V and the Battery charge is at 0%. The battery is now drained and car will not start.
Thats what mine did as well, i didnt let the battery drain. once i started it and checked the amp i pulled it back off. But i have heard from several others that they also have had the issue so im going to say its fairly common
They are hard to find, almost best to have the one on the car rebuilt if you have someone local to do it. i got on at a local bumper to bumper but they had to get it delivered in from there warehouse. summit has some but the wait time on them is the problem www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-92173959/overview/year/2009/make/pontiac/model/g8 www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-334-2903/overview/year/2009/make/pontiac/model/g8
Thank you! We replaced our alternator before from a local store, but ever since we did, I've noticed the inside lights flicker, and so do the beams. I'm thinking we got a bad one.
@@lspikelover mine flickers a little too. I used my scanner to check and make sure it was charging properly and it was. I also used engineering mode to check it. Now my understanding is that the pulleys are so under driven that at idle the alternator will be a little weak like the a/c. I also read online that it seems common for this. I dont remember it doing it before i changed alternators not sire if it has to do with the rebuilt ones or what. But my experience with rebuilt alternators and starters that were not rebuilt local just dont seem up to par
@@EfurdGarage ok that makes me feel a little better. Also, do you happen to know where I can find g8 struts? I'm having a difficult time finding the whole part
@@lspikelover i see what you mean. I looked at summit and its mostly just the shock and you would have to buy the coil over seperate. You could try g8only.com or mace performance. Since the g8 shares a platform with holdon mace may have more parts available since there Australian based
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Thanks Eford Garage for this very explanatory video!
I wouldn’t have even attempted this repair if for not watching this. Your generosity in sharing this video, is a great contribution to your fellow Pontiac G8 owners!
i appreciate that. Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for this clear and straightforward video. I had struggled to find any sort of clear instructions online, or any good repair manual for the process, and actually found a lot of misleading info in my prior searches. Thanks to your video though, it provided clarity on everything, and the process went quite smooth.
Pretty much went exactly as yours did, although I had to pull the belt off the idler pulley first, just below the tensioner to give a little extra slack. Also in my case, the rear bottom 7mm stud was on there so darn tight, I ended up destroying my ratcheting 7mm wrench trying to loosen it, but eventually got it off with a 7mm socket on a low profile flexible ratchet that just barely fit.
Your welcome, glad it did end up working out for you and getting it changed.
Thanks for the video. I just checked the manual and it says to remove (and re-install) the alternator mounting bracket from the engine block when doing this job. LOL! That's why I have absolutely no shame in telling people I watch TH-cam videos to get the job done, because the manuals just don't make sense in many cases. FYI: the stud and stud nut torque is 13 pound feet (and the mounting bracket to block bolts are 37 pound feet).
To be honest i dont look at the manuals... of course half the cars dont have them anymore either. Sometimes i think they are written as if it was on the assembly line and everything easy to get to before the car is fully together.
Another thing I found useful was to pull the motor cover off, unbolt the bracket that holds those two big electrical connectors in one piece and gently zip tie them out of the way, helps with vision. It only takes a 13mm socket and about 15 seconds
Most shop manuals were written by people who never have been in a shop or under the hood of a car.
I worked for an electrical utility for 35 years as a field engineer and used to be amazed how the reading material was presented in the equipment manuals from the vendors
great vid i didn’t even think to check the voltage on engineering mode!
Thanks, and sometimes i still forget to check engineering mode lol
How do I get to engineering mode?
@@cobrathewolf4357 th-cam.com/video/C7aB2KJTwGk/w-d-xo.html
Appreciate the vid friend. Just got done with the swap and it's nice to have a crash course for a specific car. Thanks again.
Your welcome. Yea sometimes it dosnt hurt to have something to reference. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video! Great step by step instructions.
Your welcome, thanks for watching.
Excellent video! Thanks for the video and your descriptions as you went along. Top Shelf Bro.
Thank you, and your welcome.
Birds are nice
Man thank you so much. Aint take me no 20 minutes but i got it with your help!
your welcome
Thanks a lot guy. My alternator is going bad. Gotta replace it soon. This video is going to help me out big time
Glad it could help. And thanks for watching
mind posting a list of the tools used in this process. Thanks in advance for this
i would if i could remember, it has been awhile. but they are basic tools nothing special
Helped so much🙏🏽
Glad it could help. Thanks for watching
Where did you order your alternator from and is it oem?
Oem and i got it thru a bumper to bumper
Thanks I needed this. My alternator light came on and it is showing a 15 volt charge to the battery. I
Glad it could help
Well if you are showing a 15 volt charge to your battery then its doing its job and your alternator is doing great!! 14.7 is right where you want to be so if your at 15 then don't worry about changing it.
Do you even still have this same car? I see this video in particular is a couple years old. And then I start reading some of the questions people are asking about finding different parts and what not. Im not sure why some people have such difficulty finding parts or anything for this car. I've never rely had any issues with finding ANY parts there are literally hundreds of different retailers online to choose from for different parts its ridiculous! Lol I have had a problem location the carpet insert for the trunk lid.
The alternator was an issue in town in stock yes. Had a few back order parts over the years. But of course g8 specific parts can be had to come by do too only being produced for 2 years. At the time this car was about 11 years old alot of parts stores slow down inventory on anything past 10years old and with low production numbers some just dont keep parts in stock.
Hey I have longer rods to pull the alternator off how would I get that off
longer bolts? If longer bolts that could prove to be a pain and im not sure may have to move some stuff across from it in order to get them out i inner fender should be able to move a little too
that alternator looks like it was already new. man that looks like a pain to do but ive done one on a 96 ford Taurus a few years ago, you know the one where you have to drop the sub frame... ill do any car before i do a taurus- sable ever again.
i know that is what got me it looked almost new, of course the new one i got failed right of the bat, took the seconded new one to work. forgot that dropping a sub frame is crazy to replace one lol
That was fun i bet...
Was not too bad really. Except i did it twice because that new alternator was bad too lol
@@EfurdGarage ouch yea my alternator thats new on the general took a shit sunday
Some times they do that. Sometimes its the littlest thing that takes them out
I noticed in the comments that you said you had to do it twice cause your new one was a dud. Is this common, cause I just replaced mine and it didn't help at all. The alternator warning light is still there and it quickly went into battery saving mode. Looking at it in engineering mode the battery is at 11.4V and the Battery charge is at 0%. The battery is now drained and car will not start.
Thats what mine did as well, i didnt let the battery drain. once i started it and checked the amp i pulled it back off. But i have heard from several others that they also have had the issue so im going to say its fairly common
@@EfurdGarage Thank you! Great videos by the way. Very helpful.
@@Blindstagger glad it could help. And thanks for watching
Can someone be nice and give me a link to buy one? I can't find it at AutoZone
They are hard to find, almost best to have the one on the car rebuilt if you have someone local to do it. i got on at a local bumper to bumper but they had to get it delivered in from there warehouse. summit has some but the wait time on them is the problem www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-92173959/overview/year/2009/make/pontiac/model/g8 www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-334-2903/overview/year/2009/make/pontiac/model/g8
Thank you! We replaced our alternator before from a local store, but ever since we did, I've noticed the inside lights flicker, and so do the beams. I'm thinking we got a bad one.
@@lspikelover mine flickers a little too. I used my scanner to check and make sure it was charging properly and it was. I also used engineering mode to check it. Now my understanding is that the pulleys are so under driven that at idle the alternator will be a little weak like the a/c. I also read online that it seems common for this. I dont remember it doing it before i changed alternators not sire if it has to do with the rebuilt ones or what. But my experience with rebuilt alternators and starters that were not rebuilt local just dont seem up to par
@@EfurdGarage ok that makes me feel a little better. Also, do you happen to know where I can find g8 struts? I'm having a difficult time finding the whole part
@@lspikelover i see what you mean. I looked at summit and its mostly just the shock and you would have to buy the coil over seperate. You could try g8only.com or mace performance. Since the g8 shares a platform with holdon mace may have more parts available since there Australian based