pretty much all the wrong moves, especially whacking on the pistons with a piece of pipe and probably a hammer. Disassembly is always the best method and will be much help in avoiding more damage caused by trying to force things. Next time use a block of wood instead of hard metal on the piston top.
I have used a block of wood. The pipe was an attempt to give the piston a sharper jolt than the wood. Let's face it, this attempt has been about seeing if we can break it loose without a teardown. This engine is going to need an overhaul if it is ever going to be reliable. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Try heating the pistons with a propane torch then rapidly cooling them with compressed air a few times while someone else tries to rotate the crankshaft with a breaker bar. Sometimes the temperature cycling breaks it free.
My advice here is to install the starter, get a fresh 12v battery. Fill all the cylinders with kroil oil and leave it sit for a day or two. Hook up the starter and keep bumping it and it should break loose.
Absolutely there will be stuck valves. I am soon going to be bringing this truck to the garage to work on it over the winter. I will dig a bit deeper into the engine once I have it closer to the toolbox. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
@@DougsMessyGarage heating pistons and pouring old engine oil or heavy gear oil on them quite often works,the heat creates a capillary action and pulls the oil down the skirts,don’t get the pistons to hot or you’ll just smoke yerself out and the oil will turn to carbon and make thing’s tighter,stay away from hydrochloric acid it eats pistons,stinks and does more damage than good,I suppose if the engine is that shagged out then it doesn’t matter but experience has taught me that acid is the quickest way to turn a engine into a boat anchor,even if you neutralise it,it stays in ring grooves,dribbles into the sump,etc,etc,just the fumes create rust,best of luck friend,had a 24 stud 8ba in a 53 mercury,a rare car in the uk,if I didn’t run it every 3 months a valve would always stick,
I agree with the guys who feel like an oil or solvent based product, or combination of products, is safer. And I also agree that pouring acid in the cylinders is dodgy,because you'll have a hard time flushing it out completely and could cause further harm. I think I'd feel better pouring Evaporust in the cylinders, and waiting for it to drain into the crankcase.
This has been an escalation. I started off with oil based products and had kept getting more extreme as everything else failed. I think I am close to breaking things free now, I just can't get any leverage on things with the front clip in the way. The truck is likely getting a trailer ride to my garage in the next couple of weeks and then i will be able to make some better progress. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Hydrochloric is EXTREMELY reactive with cast iron and even more so with aluminum, that’s dripped down and now wetted in there. You’ve also likely stripped or deformed the crank threads. That engine needs to come out and take it to a machine shop to evaluate the damage, it will at a minimum need to be bored.
I doubt I have done any damage to the crank threads, I have been careful to not crank on them too much. Don't worry, this engine will be coming apart. I am trying to get it running both to see if I can and because it is much easier to disassemble an engine that is capable of running than one that is a seized pile of rust. I can't just put an engine stuck this hard back into service and expect reliability. My plan for the truck is a bit of a rat rod and I would really like to keep the 8BA flathead if I can.
Looks like a nice project. By 8:05, I am wondering why you didn't add acid to that/those rusty valves. Another thing I may have tried was to take some empty sour cream/margarine containers and cut to make a damn around those topped pistons Mold/attach in place with putty and thus you could have filled the piston to the top angled side. But yea, I would also have done those valves too. Good luck. If the pistons are larger than the containers mentioned, use ice-cream tub containers. As an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic, Marine and Auto Mechanic, I have not encountered this sort of seizure and so I am very interested to follow your progress. As an after thought, could you not have got the thing into neutral so as to winch it onto a flatbed?
I'll have to try the ATF/Acetone thing. I think that will work on the downward pistons but that one at the top of the stroke is a major stinker. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I almost wonder if you are better off to drop the oil pan and disconnect the piston from the crank and then try to turn it until the piston is free before you try hitting the piston.
I have not heated up the exhaust manifold but have gone into the water jackets around the stuck piston and applied heat to the outside of the cylinder.
Already tried PB and Marvel. The Marvel seems to have worked well on five of the eight. Those last three are stinkers though. I did use wood on the pistons prior to trying the pipe. It didn't do anything. Understand that this engine will be getting rebuilt before going into regular use. I figure the pre-rebuild teardown will be much easier on a running engine that one that is seized solid. That is why I am trying these techniques, not because I think I am going to have a reliable engine. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I don't think there are an unusual number of closed valves but now that you have mentioned it, I will have to go back and look. Honestly, I have not been paying that close of attention to the valves because of the stuck pistons. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
On old flatheads with the heads still on we used to use coca-cola and fill to the top of the spark plug hole. nd leve it fro 2 dys. Always seemed to work. It was the acid in the coke.
The acid in the coke is diluted phosphoric acid. Muriatic acid is a mix of hydrochloric and phosphoric acids and very strong. I have a drum of it and I won't even start touching it without a big bag of baking soda and running water at hand. Nasty fumes and wicked stuff if it gets on your skin.
@@nickwarner8158 Don't blame you, I had half gallon of hydrocloric spilled on me one day and by the time I got to the faucet and turned it on my clothes fell off me. My aunt Helga helped hose me down. She lived next door and could tell by my yelling something bad had happened.. I was using it to test milk,my wife's job at the time.
Ignore the doubters, you can’t make the thing any worse than it already is. This n that garage uses a chain wrench/strap wrench on the crank pulley with a long cheater pipe, it’s like an oil filter strap wrench but way bigger & with a chain instead of a strap. Wrap it onto the crank pulley then you can really whale on it. This n that garage has broken loose some seriously stuck engines that anyone else would have given up on. Good luck
Thanks for the tips. I have been thinking about a chain wrench as an option. Replacing a sheared keyway is easy compared to a striped crank bolt. I am taking the 'no permanent damage' approach to this engine. This is why I have not used the head bolt holes to press the pistons down with a steel plate. That might work on some engines but Flathead Fords are known for fragile deck casting so I do not want to risk killing the block. The engine will need an overbore and likely a turned crank but I do not want to risk anything that will wreck difficult to replace parts. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
This is actually part 8 in the playlist. Don't worry, there will be much more content on this truck over the winter. Hoping to have it running come spring.
Please don't use a Pipe, you will crack the Piston, wood 4x4 cut , Hit with slug hammer use trans fluid mix with pb blast and Brake fluid, did you try a Crowbar on the flywheel.
I have tried a prybar on the the flywheel but the angles are bad with the front clip still in place. New tires and refurbished wheels will be going on this week to make the truck a roller so I will be able to bring it back to the garage rather than trying to work on it on a hill in the bush.
pretty much all the wrong moves, especially whacking on the pistons with a piece of pipe and probably a hammer. Disassembly is always the best method and will be much help in avoiding more damage caused by trying to force things. Next time use a block of wood instead of hard metal on the piston top.
I have used a block of wood. The pipe was an attempt to give the piston a sharper jolt than the wood. Let's face it, this attempt has been about seeing if we can break it loose without a teardown. This engine is going to need an overhaul if it is ever going to be reliable.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Try heating the pistons with a propane torch then rapidly cooling them with compressed air a few times while someone else tries to rotate the crankshaft with a breaker bar. Sometimes the temperature cycling breaks it free.
Worth trying once I get the truck to town.
My advice here is to install the starter, get a fresh 12v battery. Fill all the cylinders with kroil oil and leave it sit for a day or two. Hook up the starter and keep bumping it and it should break loose.
Looking at the state of the valves I’d be inclined to pull the inlet manifold and take the valves out,some are gonna be stuck for sure
Absolutely there will be stuck valves. I am soon going to be bringing this truck to the garage to work on it over the winter. I will dig a bit deeper into the engine once I have it closer to the toolbox.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
@@DougsMessyGarage heating pistons and pouring old engine oil or heavy gear oil on them quite often works,the heat creates a capillary action and pulls the oil down the skirts,don’t get the pistons to hot or you’ll just smoke yerself out and the oil will turn to carbon and make thing’s tighter,stay away from hydrochloric acid it eats pistons,stinks and does more damage than good,I suppose if the engine is that shagged out then it doesn’t matter but experience has taught me that acid is the quickest way to turn a engine into a boat anchor,even if you neutralise it,it stays in ring grooves,dribbles into the sump,etc,etc,just the fumes create rust,best of luck friend,had a 24 stud 8ba in a 53 mercury,a rare car in the uk,if I didn’t run it every 3 months a valve would always stick,
@@brettlittle9913 I will certainly keep all of this in mind. Thanks for the tips.
I agree with the guys who feel like an oil or solvent based product, or combination of products, is safer. And I also agree that pouring acid in the cylinders is dodgy,because you'll have a hard time flushing it out completely and could cause further harm. I think I'd feel better pouring Evaporust in the cylinders, and waiting for it to drain into the crankcase.
This has been an escalation. I started off with oil based products and had kept getting more extreme as everything else failed. I think I am close to breaking things free now, I just can't get any leverage on things with the front clip in the way. The truck is likely getting a trailer ride to my garage in the next couple of weeks and then i will be able to make some better progress.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Hydrochloric is EXTREMELY reactive with cast iron and even more so with aluminum, that’s dripped down and now wetted in there. You’ve also likely stripped or deformed the crank threads.
That engine needs to come out and take it to a machine shop to evaluate the damage, it will at a minimum need to be bored.
I doubt I have done any damage to the crank threads, I have been careful to not crank on them too much. Don't worry, this engine will be coming apart. I am trying to get it running both to see if I can and because it is much easier to disassemble an engine that is capable of running than one that is a seized pile of rust. I can't just put an engine stuck this hard back into service and expect reliability.
My plan for the truck is a bit of a rat rod and I would really like to keep the 8BA flathead if I can.
Thumbs up Doug.Thanks.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Looks like a nice project. By 8:05, I am wondering why you didn't add acid to that/those rusty valves.
Another thing I may have tried was to take some empty sour cream/margarine containers and cut to make a damn around those topped pistons Mold/attach in place with putty and thus you could have filled the piston to the top angled side. But yea, I would also have done those valves too.
Good luck.
If the pistons are larger than the containers mentioned, use ice-cream tub containers.
As an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic, Marine and Auto Mechanic, I have not encountered this sort of seizure and so I am very interested to follow your progress.
As an after thought, could you not have got the thing into neutral so as to winch it onto a flatbed?
Use a block of wood on the piston. Melt paragon wax and let it get between your piston and cylinders.
Interesting idea. Nobody has suggested wax yet.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
The jennings motorsports channel does a lot of seized engines and he uses a mix of acetone and ATF which is very effective.
I'll have to try the ATF/Acetone thing. I think that will work on the downward pistons but that one at the top of the stroke is a major stinker.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I almost wonder if you are better off to drop the oil pan and disconnect the piston from the crank and then try to turn it until the piston is free before you try hitting the piston.
Did you heat that exhaust manifold up so the oil in the ring lands starts to bubble?
I have not heated up the exhaust manifold but have gone into the water jackets around the stuck piston and applied heat to the outside of the cylinder.
why are you not using pb blaster ??? also cut down a short piece of 4x4 to fit the cyl. and beat on that not a pipe..
Already tried PB and Marvel. The Marvel seems to have worked well on five of the eight. Those last three are stinkers though. I did use wood on the pistons prior to trying the pipe. It didn't do anything.
Understand that this engine will be getting rebuilt before going into regular use. I figure the pre-rebuild teardown will be much easier on a running engine that one that is seized solid. That is why I am trying these techniques, not because I think I am going to have a reliable engine.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I'm curious as to why so many of your valves are all closed at the same time. It looks as if most of your cylinders are on the compression stroke.
I don't think there are an unusual number of closed valves but now that you have mentioned it, I will have to go back and look. Honestly, I have not been paying that close of attention to the valves because of the stuck pistons.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
On old flatheads with the heads still on we used to use coca-cola and fill to the top of the spark plug hole. nd leve it fro 2 dys. Always seemed to work. It was the acid in the coke.
The acid in the coke is diluted phosphoric acid. Muriatic acid is a mix of hydrochloric and phosphoric acids and very strong. I have a drum of it and I won't even start touching it without a big bag of baking soda and running water at hand. Nasty fumes and wicked stuff if it gets on your skin.
@@nickwarner8158 Don't blame you, I had half gallon of hydrocloric spilled on me one day and by the time I got to the faucet and turned it on my clothes fell off me. My aunt Helga helped hose me down. She lived next door and could tell by my yelling something bad had happened.. I was using it to test milk,my wife's job at the time.
Why not take this “Gem” Home?? Make a Project of it!💰💰💰💰👍👍👍👍
Hoping to load it on the trailer this weekend.
Ignore the doubters, you can’t make the thing any worse than it already is. This n that garage uses a chain wrench/strap wrench on the crank pulley with a long cheater pipe, it’s like an oil filter strap wrench but way bigger & with a chain instead of a strap. Wrap it onto the crank pulley then you can really whale on it. This n that garage has broken loose some seriously stuck engines that anyone else would have given up on. Good luck
Thanks for the tips. I have been thinking about a chain wrench as an option. Replacing a sheared keyway is easy compared to a striped crank bolt.
I am taking the 'no permanent damage' approach to this engine. This is why I have not used the head bolt holes to press the pistons down with a steel plate. That might work on some engines but Flathead Fords are known for fragile deck casting so I do not want to risk killing the block.
The engine will need an overbore and likely a turned crank but I do not want to risk anything that will wreck difficult to replace parts.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Hopefully there's a part too I'm a new subscriber
This is actually part 8 in the playlist. Don't worry, there will be much more content on this truck over the winter. Hoping to have it running come spring.
Please don't use a Pipe, you will crack the Piston, wood 4x4 cut , Hit with slug hammer use trans fluid mix with pb blast and Brake fluid, did you try a Crowbar on the flywheel.
I have tried a prybar on the the flywheel but the angles are bad with the front clip still in place. New tires and refurbished wheels will be going on this week to make the truck a roller so I will be able to bring it back to the garage rather than trying to work on it on a hill in the bush.
Scorch Earth!
Thanks for watching and for commenting
I bet you have stuck valves too.
I completely agree.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Kroil everyday for 1 week. THEN try all this.
I am going to try bumping the engine over with the wheels and see if it pops loose but if that doesn't work, Kroil might be worth a shot.
Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha. Old dogs can't teach young dogs new tricks. They always know it all. So they think.
Well, it is an old truck but I am always willing to learn something new. Thanks for watching and for commenting
Bang it in gear and toe it around on tarmac might free it
The camera positions are awful rather just looking at your back.
Lots of talking. Too much.
Yeah, I got a little wordy in this one. Thanks for watching and for commenting.