I have home built in 1977 with a tar and gravel roof. We've lived in it for 13 years now and the lady who sold it to us didn't disclose the major ponding issues and leaks with the home. I've had to ;pump water off my roof for 13 years now. I have two new leaks in the bathroom and another in the hallway just 4 foot from the bathroom. After watching this video I went up to the roof and scraped off the gravel on an area about 8 X 10 ft, hoping I would catch both leaks with one large patch. Once I got down to the tar, I found it very difficult to get the remaining gravel stuck in the tar out. I got a tool to try and spud it out but it's a tough job for a disabled 60 year old. Plus, over the years dirt and dust has become part of the tar, thus nothing I know of will stick to it. Seems I have two options....1. cut it out down to the original plywood and build it up back up with extra roll roofing patches sealing as best I can. OR 2. Find something that will stick to the thin film of fine dirt in-bedded into the tar, like maybe Quikrete or some other material. I did have a roofing company come buy today to give and estimate for replacing the entire roof. I'm waiting on that now; however, I still need to patch this area somehow with something until we can get funding and the roofer can schedule us in. What would you guys recommend? Cut out the tar down to the substrate and build it up?
I think there might be an inch of tar on my roof! It's thick. Plus Home Depot and Lowe's doesn't even carry asphalt primer. I would have to drive an hour away to a Roofing Supply store in the next town over. We live in Southern New Mexico.
If you are able to locate the area, then going over the tar with granulated cap sheet (Tamko 170, Certainteed GMS, not torch grade). Make sure it is cool when you are spudding. If all the rocks don't come out, it's ok, you just want it consistently level. On the tie in you do want to try and get the rocks out, but will still work. Clean the dust off with water and a brush, and then prime with asphalt primer. That will then be a prepared surface. I have seen guys us a little bit of cutter (gas, mineral spirits, xylene, alcohol, etc.) and mix with a little roofing cement to make primer. Cutting down to the wood is going to open a can of worms, especially in the middle of the roof. I would not recommend unless last resort.
Regarding Asphalt primer - Look elsewhere. It may be where the asphalt patching materials are, or in paint. Also, you may be able to order online to the store or to your home or business.
Since we were applying the material on top of existing, that is why we primed it. If you are applying to new material, then primer may be an option. Old material needs help usually and it is better and you know you'll get good adhesion with primer.
If I have deep cracks in the tar, can I still just apply a 3 course patch with the first course "filling" in the cracks to level everything, and then apply the membrane over the leveled area? Thanks.
great video. how much does a repair like this cost on a residential property? i have an 1800 sq ft home in Texas in bad need of repair of tar and gravel roof. im tempted to try it on my own. great video
The best thing to do is to get a local roofer to come out and look at it and they may be able to give you an idea. This repair was a 3 man 11 hour day. Just make sure when you call them to ask if they charge to come out or not. You may have to pay a service fee for them to come out and troubleshoot.
Interesting how the roofing is done. We have the gravel roof that leaked at the edges and the front shingles were blown away when we had three storms in two weeks. The roofing guys quoted to repair / redo the whole roof would cost $14K. We are considering to do it ourselves and wondering about what will be the best roofing material to last longer without routine care. We live near the beach that is cold, windy and foggy all year long like summer don't exist. Any suggestion?
Flat roofing is done with roll goods anymore. (Also single ply) Modified bitumen granulated material such as Certainteed Flintlastic and TAMKO AwaPlan products. I have been using the Certainteed SA Systems (Self Adhered). In your case, it would be better to get an idea from some local talent and pose that same question as the roll goods work good here in South Florida, but may not in your neck of the woods. As far as the shingles, heavier is better for wind, so the Certainteed Landmark Pro are 50 year and heavier than the Landmark 30 year. Again local knowledge is key. You may end up with the modified bitumen based shingles (Malarkey brand). Keep asking questions, talk to supply houses and/or get more estimates. Do not recommend doing it yourself unless you have some experience. You will, most likely, get a better and longer lasting job from a roofing contractor. It will be worth the money. The way to find a contractor is through referral, make sure a live human gives you a name that has worked for them. It would not hurt to get several. Typically, the supply houses have contractors that they will refer. These will be the ones that pay their bills and have the least complaints. Good Luck!
Oy!! Do your reseach and definitley read the reviews for products if you choose to diy or any company you consider hiring. Best wishes. BrandyF from West Texas.
Great video thanks. That's the problem, it's not always where the leak appears, but how did you find out where the leak originated was it just a simple visual inspection?
In this situation the "drip" was actually happening 20 ft. into the roof. This is actually an old concrete poured, built up roof that they installed trusses on. So there is another roof 3 ft under the one you see now. So we were prepared to go 20' in from the edge, but come to find out that is where the water was getting in and it was running on the roof underneath until it found a hole where they had cut in some utilities. Don't see that very often. th-cam.com/video/kPULb-_bw6M/w-d-xo.html Look at the video at 5:16 and you will see it for a split second.
Practical Roofing Concepts I mean the unrolled membrane cap sheets. Are they going to split at the seams within 10 years? Would modified bitumen (either SBS or APP) sheets be better?
Still a little confused on what you mean by unrolled sheets. What we are using in this video is AWA Plan 170 which is an SBS granulated cap sheet. It is a 12 year material. The seams will eventually split, but should last a while. Sometimes when hot mopping and the kettle is too hot, it will make the cap sheet seams split prematurely. This does not happen with cold process.
It happens. It is not the end of the world as it can be sealed up. Cooler weather is better (morning) and just have to pay attention and adjust the angle of the tool as needed.
Best instructional video ever!
Wow, thanks!
I have home built in 1977 with a tar and gravel roof. We've lived in it for 13 years now and the lady who sold it to us didn't disclose the major ponding issues and leaks with the home. I've had to ;pump water off my roof for 13 years now. I have two new leaks in the bathroom and another in the hallway just 4 foot from the bathroom. After watching this video I went up to the roof and scraped off the gravel on an area about 8 X 10 ft, hoping I would catch both leaks with one large patch. Once I got down to the tar, I found it very difficult to get the remaining gravel stuck in the tar out. I got a tool to try and spud it out but it's a tough job for a disabled 60 year old. Plus, over the years dirt and dust has become part of the tar, thus nothing I know of will stick to it. Seems I have two options....1. cut it out down to the original plywood and build it up back up with extra roll roofing patches sealing as best I can. OR 2. Find something that will stick to the thin film of fine dirt in-bedded into the tar, like maybe Quikrete or some other material. I did have a roofing company come buy today to give and estimate for replacing the entire roof. I'm waiting on that now; however, I still need to patch this area somehow with something until we can get funding and the roofer can schedule us in. What would you guys recommend? Cut out the tar down to the substrate and build it up?
I think there might be an inch of tar on my roof! It's thick. Plus Home Depot and Lowe's doesn't even carry asphalt primer. I would have to drive an hour away to a Roofing Supply store in the next town over. We live in Southern New Mexico.
If you are able to locate the area, then going over the tar with granulated cap sheet (Tamko 170, Certainteed GMS, not torch grade). Make sure it is cool when you are spudding. If all the rocks don't come out, it's ok, you just want it consistently level. On the tie in you do want to try and get the rocks out, but will still work. Clean the dust off with water and a brush, and then prime with asphalt primer. That will then be a prepared surface. I have seen guys us a little bit of cutter (gas, mineral spirits, xylene, alcohol, etc.) and mix with a little roofing cement to make primer. Cutting down to the wood is going to open a can of worms, especially in the middle of the roof. I would not recommend unless last resort.
Regarding Asphalt primer - Look elsewhere. It may be where the asphalt patching materials are, or in paint. Also, you may be able to order online to the store or to your home or business.
Is the primer necessary, would some kind of underlayment or felt be better for the repair area?
Since we were applying the material on top of existing, that is why we primed it. If you are applying to new material, then primer may be an option. Old material needs help usually and it is better and you know you'll get good adhesion with primer.
If I have deep cracks in the tar, can I still just apply a 3 course patch with the first course "filling" in the cracks to level everything, and then apply the membrane over the leveled area? Thanks.
As long as the cracks are not too wide. If anything you could put cap sheet over the 3 course.
great video. how much does a repair like this cost on a residential property? i have an 1800 sq ft home in Texas in bad need of repair of tar and gravel roof.
im tempted to try it on my own. great video
The best thing to do is to get a local roofer to come out and look at it and they may be able to give you an idea. This repair was a 3 man 11 hour day. Just make sure when you call them to ask if they charge to come out or not. You may have to pay a service fee for them to come out and troubleshoot.
Interesting how the roofing is done. We have the gravel roof that leaked at the edges and the front shingles were blown away when we had three storms in two weeks. The roofing guys quoted to repair / redo the whole roof would cost $14K. We are considering to do it ourselves and wondering about what will be the best roofing material to last longer without routine care.
We live near the beach that is cold, windy and foggy all year long like summer don't exist. Any suggestion?
Flat roofing is done with roll goods anymore. (Also single ply) Modified bitumen granulated material such as Certainteed Flintlastic and TAMKO AwaPlan products. I have been using the Certainteed SA Systems (Self Adhered). In your case, it would be better to get an idea from some local talent and pose that same question as the roll goods work good here in South Florida, but may not in your neck of the woods. As far as the shingles, heavier is better for wind, so the Certainteed Landmark Pro are 50 year and heavier than the Landmark 30 year. Again local knowledge is key. You may end up with the modified bitumen based shingles (Malarkey brand). Keep asking questions, talk to supply houses and/or get more estimates. Do not recommend doing it yourself unless you have some experience. You will, most likely, get a better and longer lasting job from a roofing contractor. It will be worth the money. The way to find a contractor is through referral, make sure a live human gives you a name that has worked for them. It would not hurt to get several. Typically, the supply houses have contractors that they will refer. These will be the ones that pay their bills and have the least complaints. Good Luck!
Oy!! Do your reseach and definitley read the reviews for products if you choose to diy or any company you consider hiring. Best wishes. BrandyF from West Texas.
Great video thanks. That's the problem, it's not always where the leak appears, but how did you find out where the leak originated was it just a simple visual inspection?
In this situation the "drip" was actually happening 20 ft. into the roof. This is actually an old concrete poured, built up roof that they installed trusses on. So there is another roof 3 ft under the one you see now. So we were prepared to go 20' in from the edge, but come to find out that is where the water was getting in and it was running on the roof underneath until it found a hole where they had cut in some utilities. Don't see that very often. th-cam.com/video/kPULb-_bw6M/w-d-xo.html Look at the video at 5:16 and you will see it for a split second.
Great video, where are you located?
Thank you. South Florida.
over time say 10 years won't the seems between the unrolled bitumen split?
Not sure what you are meaning by unrolled bitumen.
Practical Roofing Concepts I mean the unrolled membrane cap sheets. Are they going to split at the seams within 10 years? Would modified bitumen (either SBS or APP) sheets be better?
Still a little confused on what you mean by unrolled sheets. What we are using in this video is AWA Plan 170 which is an SBS granulated cap sheet. It is a 12 year material. The seams will eventually split, but should last a while. Sometimes when hot mopping and the kettle is too hot, it will make the cap sheet seams split prematurely. This does not happen with cold process.
sharing the information
With my luck, I'd spud right through the under-layment and hit the plywood.
It happens. It is not the end of the world as it can be sealed up. Cooler weather is better (morning) and just have to pay attention and adjust the angle of the tool as needed.
That scraper looks flimsy. My dad had the old school ones that were way more sturdy and half that blades length. Much better than these.
OK