I have a 25 ton 3 pt splitter and it appears to run at about the same speed, plenty fast and safe enough for a one man operation. Have not had any wood that it would not go right thru. Also using 1/2 hydraulic hose. Mine will also rotate to vertical position. Do not want to pick up larger cuts. Purchased a pickaroon to limit bending to position cuts.
Thanks for doing the video! I have a self-contained Troy built that I swear it’s just about the same speed as that one. Three point hitch mounted would make it so much easier to move the sucker around and one less engine to mess with.
To speed up splitter operation you might look into installing a separate hydraulic pump on the PTO shaft. One that produces higher flow rate than the tractor's system.
I know it's old comment but I built myself a hydraulic splitter this summer which works on a PTO shaft. It has a 3 times multiplier and a 57 liter pump. 70 liter oil reservoir. It's fast and strong. I run it on idle with my gasoline grey fergie from 1952
Yep...I did the same thing many many years ago. Bought a 3pt hitch splitter for my tractor from Central Tractor store (think they went out of business 15 years or so ago....but it was like Tractor Supply). NOW, let me tell you WHY this is a bad idea...AND why I use mine as the 'base' for building a stand alone splitter: 1. You're putting hours/fuel on a 50-60hp tractor to run a splitter a 8hp gas engine will run better. 2. It ties up the tractor....even worse in your case, you can't use the loader until you disconnect the hydraulic line you've used. 3. The cycle time is SLOW, because most tractor pumps aren't even close to the pump output on the average stand alone splitter. I put a 16gpm pump on my converted splitter, and run the 8hp gas engine at 2500-3000rpm. That Ford tractor has an 8.5gpm hydraulic pump on it....AND it's a single stage pump. Wood splitter pumps are two stage...they drop into the 2nd stage when you hit a tough piece to split....volume goes down, pressure goes up. I bought a gas engine/pump combination, a 5 gallon tank for hydro fluid, wheels, stub axles, and welded up a frame under the splitter I-beam to make a stand alone one that works far better than the original. uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/1686060396905414/large/1607952555/enhance
Nice! I agree with all of that but unfortunately I'm only borrowing this unit from my wife's uncle. I think I've had it for about 3 years now. He don't use it but he won't sell it to me so I can't make any changes. I would not buy this splitter unless it was cheap and I would definitely have plans to do exactly what you did. Thanks for watching!
We run ours on a 112 hp tractor at 1100 rpm . A larger tractor with more hydraulic capacity would work better . I am a heavy equipment mechanic and when I worked for a dealership we recommended not using a splitter on a smaller tractor . They should be used on a 80 to 150 hp machine or a machine with power beyond remotes. Many people ruin hydraulic pumps and remotes due to insufficient hydraulic capacity and the heat of the hydraulic fluid. The tractor you are using is just at the threshold for using a splitter but with you using the loader remotes you can run the splitter. I always recommend using the loader remotes if running a splitter as they are designed for continuous flow unlike the rear remotes that are for designed for intermittent flow on smaller machines on larger 90 to 150 hp tractors the rear remotes can handle continuous flow and the heat generated by the cycles of the splitter. Most people don't think to contact their local dealer before purchasing a splitter and then they end up with slow cycles and lots of heat and eventually ruin remotes and pumps. Just because a tractor has 30 gpm hydraulic capacity doesn't mean it can run at 30 gpm continuously for hours at a time . I am glad you run yours off the loader remotes that was very smart but it still might cause you trouble down the road. I suggest when you split wood for long periods of time stop and feel the remotes periodically see if they get real warm . Just a suggestion to help prevent future damage. Take care and stay safe !
Thanks for the comment! I agree and understand all of those issues, I'm a mechanic also. Thankfully I'm only borrowing this splitter. Thanks for watching!
I am looking at a ford 4600 and was wondering how you liked your 4610? put many hours on it yet? We are in pretty hilly area in Idaho, I liked how wide they were. Good lookin' splitter as well
Thanks! It says 55940 I assume that 0 is minutes. I've owned it since 2009 and I love this tractor. I have some pretty steep land and I can go all over it with this tractor and a round bale on the front with no weight and most of the time it'll slide sideways before it tries to roll. But I do have to say that the front spindles are the weak point but they should be fine as long as the loader doesn't get overloaded to often. I was abusing mine when they broke. Thanks for watching!
Hello Glenn, can you help me understand? Log splitters are usually sold equipped with an oil tank with pump driven by the tractor's PTO, while the model shown in the video is driven directly by the tractor's additional hydraulic outlets. It seems cleaner and smarter to me! and also cheaper. but how can your tractor provide continuous hydraulic power to the distributor fixed on the log stacker and which you are operating manually? If I understand correctly, on my tractor and others that I have seen on the videos in youtube to have this function I would have to lock the distributor lever on the tractor by tying it .... but can it be done? how does it work on your FORD? did you have to keep the lever to lift the magazine stuck? Is it possible to drive on the road with the log splitter attached to the tractor? forese in USA is possible .... Of course I want to build the log splitter by myself. Thanks you Glenn! Mauro from Italy
You are correct. I have to lock the remote hydraulic valve in the on position. Just keep in mind this is usually slower than a stand alone log splitter and could overheat the hydraulic system on a smaller tractor. I can drive my tractor on the road in the USA. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@GlennConner Thanks 1000 Glenn! very kind, I wanted to know just that. Could you also tell me the capacity of the tractor pump and if it is the typical Ford piston main pump, (I also have a 3600), or is it an additional pump applied for services (elevator)? Do you remember the diameter of the hydraulic cylinder? However, your wood splitter does not seem slow to me. Thank you again! Mauro
I think the pump is around 8 gpm and it is the ford internal pump. If I had to guess I would say the cylinder is around 4 inches and the rod is probably 2 inches. But I do like my stand alone splitter better. This is a video on it.. th-cam.com/video/fStMdTqqMqQ/w-d-xo.html
If I'm loading wood on a wagon that I might use my tractor to move then the splitter would be in the way if I need to move the wagon before I'm finished splitting. I'm just saying if I'm using the splitter on the tractor then I can't use the rear of the tractor for anything else in the process.
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I have a danhuser splitter it's been in the family for years I inherited it and have a gas as well great machines
These old tractors get better gas mileage then any car.
I have a 25 ton 3 pt splitter and it appears to run at about the same speed, plenty fast and safe enough for a one man operation. Have not had any wood that it would not go right thru. Also using 1/2 hydraulic hose. Mine will also rotate to vertical position. Do not want to pick up larger cuts. Purchased a pickaroon to limit bending to position cuts.
Thanks for doing the video! I have a self-contained Troy built that I swear it’s just about the same speed as that one. Three point hitch mounted would make it so much easier to move the sucker around and one less engine to mess with.
Thanks for watching!
hi there just stopped in checking out other channels . yours looks like what i am in to . looking forward to more thanks john
Welcome!
To speed up splitter operation you might look into installing a separate hydraulic pump on the PTO shaft. One that produces higher flow rate than the tractor's system.
I have thought of that. Good suggestion. Thanks for watching!
I know it's old comment but I built myself a hydraulic splitter this summer which works on a PTO shaft. It has a 3 times multiplier and a 57 liter pump. 70 liter oil reservoir.
It's fast and strong. I run it on idle with my gasoline grey fergie from 1952
That's the best way to do it.
Yep...I did the same thing many many years ago. Bought a 3pt hitch splitter for my tractor from Central Tractor store (think they went out of business 15 years or so ago....but it was like Tractor Supply).
NOW, let me tell you WHY this is a bad idea...AND why I use mine as the 'base' for building a stand alone splitter:
1. You're putting hours/fuel on a 50-60hp tractor to run a splitter a 8hp gas engine will run better.
2. It ties up the tractor....even worse in your case, you can't use the loader until you disconnect the hydraulic line you've used.
3. The cycle time is SLOW, because most tractor pumps aren't even close to the pump output on the average stand alone splitter. I put a 16gpm pump on my converted splitter, and run the 8hp gas engine at 2500-3000rpm. That Ford tractor has an 8.5gpm hydraulic pump on it....AND it's a single stage pump. Wood splitter pumps are two stage...they drop into the 2nd stage when you hit a tough piece to split....volume goes down, pressure goes up.
I bought a gas engine/pump combination, a 5 gallon tank for hydro fluid, wheels, stub axles, and welded up a frame under the splitter I-beam to make a stand alone one that works far better than the original.
uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/1686060396905414/large/1607952555/enhance
Nice! I agree with all of that but unfortunately I'm only borrowing this unit from my wife's uncle. I think I've had it for about 3 years now. He don't use it but he won't sell it to me so I can't make any changes. I would not buy this splitter unless it was cheap and I would definitely have plans to do exactly what you did. Thanks for watching!
@@GlennConner Keep your eye out.....I've seen them sell for peanuts, and the cylinder/beam/valve are at least 1/2 the cost of a stand alone splitter.
We run ours on a 112 hp tractor at 1100 rpm . A larger tractor with more hydraulic capacity would work better . I am a heavy equipment mechanic and when I worked for a dealership we recommended not using a splitter on a smaller tractor . They should be used on a 80 to 150 hp machine or a machine with power beyond remotes. Many people ruin hydraulic pumps and remotes due to insufficient hydraulic capacity and the heat of the hydraulic fluid. The tractor you are using is just at the threshold for using a splitter but with you using the loader remotes you can run the splitter. I always recommend using the loader remotes if running a splitter as they are designed for continuous flow unlike the rear remotes that are for designed for intermittent flow on smaller machines on larger 90 to 150 hp tractors the rear remotes can handle continuous flow and the heat generated by the cycles of the splitter. Most people don't think to contact their local dealer before purchasing a splitter and then they end up with slow cycles and lots of heat and eventually ruin remotes and pumps. Just because a tractor has 30 gpm hydraulic capacity doesn't mean it can run at 30 gpm continuously for hours at a time . I am glad you run yours off the loader remotes that was very smart but it still might cause you trouble down the road. I suggest when you split wood for long periods of time stop and feel the remotes periodically see if they get real warm . Just a suggestion to help prevent future damage. Take care and stay safe !
Thanks for the comment! I agree and understand all of those issues, I'm a mechanic also. Thankfully I'm only borrowing this splitter. Thanks for watching!
thanks,
That was easier than the last wood we split. 😜
I wish the splitter would actually run that fast.
I am looking at a ford 4600 and was wondering how you liked your 4610? put many hours on it yet? We are in pretty hilly area in Idaho, I liked how wide they were. Good lookin' splitter as well
Thanks! It says 55940 I assume that 0 is minutes. I've owned it since 2009 and I love this tractor. I have some pretty steep land and I can go all over it with this tractor and a round bale on the front with no weight and most of the time it'll slide sideways before it tries to roll. But I do have to say that the front spindles are the weak point but they should be fine as long as the loader doesn't get overloaded to often. I was abusing mine when they broke. Thanks for watching!
Who's playing the tune at 6:20? Glenn - sounds like Zep's Bron-Yr-Aur with all the right notes in the wrong order...! Great choice.
It's from TH-cam's copyright free music. Their title for it is Castleshire by Chris Haugen. Thanks for watching!
My friend runs his of his j c b it has the power and the speed
Thanks for watching!
Hello Glenn, can you help me understand?
Log splitters are usually sold equipped with an oil tank with pump driven by the tractor's PTO, while the model shown in the video is driven directly by the tractor's additional hydraulic outlets. It seems cleaner and smarter to me! and also cheaper. but how can your tractor provide continuous hydraulic power to the distributor fixed on the log stacker and which you are operating manually?
If I understand correctly, on my tractor and others that I have seen on the videos in youtube to have this function I would have to lock the distributor lever on the tractor by tying it .... but can it be done? how does it work on your FORD? did you have to keep the lever to lift the magazine stuck?
Is it possible to drive on the road with the log splitter attached to the tractor? forese in USA is possible ....
Of course I want to build the log splitter by myself.
Thanks you Glenn!
Mauro from Italy
You are correct. I have to lock the remote hydraulic valve in the on position. Just keep in mind this is usually slower than a stand alone log splitter and could overheat the hydraulic system on a smaller tractor. I can drive my tractor on the road in the USA. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@GlennConner
Thanks 1000 Glenn! very kind, I wanted to know just that.
Could you also tell me the capacity of the tractor pump and if it is the typical Ford piston main pump, (I also have a 3600), or is it an additional pump applied for services (elevator)?
Do you remember the diameter of the hydraulic cylinder?
However, your wood splitter does not seem slow to me.
Thank you again!
Mauro
I think the pump is around 8 gpm and it is the ford internal pump. If I had to guess I would say the cylinder is around 4 inches and the rod is probably 2 inches. But I do like my stand alone splitter better. This is a video on it.. th-cam.com/video/fStMdTqqMqQ/w-d-xo.html
@@GlennConner , really very kind! how much does this information cost me?😁😄.
When I complete the work i send you the video. (1 year? I hope! 😂)
Just thinking he said he doesn't like the splitter because it ties up the tractor how can you use the tractor if you splitting wood 🤡
If I'm loading wood on a wagon that I might use my tractor to move then the splitter would be in the way if I need to move the wagon before I'm finished splitting. I'm just saying if I'm using the splitter on the tractor then I can't use the rear of the tractor for anything else in the process.
Young man, we used one on a Ford 3000 yrs ago, Just subscribed. Good video, perfect description of the pros and cons! 🚜🪵👍🏼🇱🇷
Thanks for joining!