Thanks Jeff. Always enjoy your talks even with the unedited senior moments hahaha. Hey I'm only 60 and I'm already getting those several times a day, especially as it's a challenge to stay mentally active stuck in the house every day for the last few months. Hope you and your family stay safe out there in California. I guess it's normal for arm chair boat designers to think about ways to customize a boat plan. I'm certainly guilty as charged but I'm not smart enough or dumb enough to mess around with engineered plans other than the addition of a live well or seat/storage arrangements. I think that's still within my level of greenhorn expertise. However, just as sort of shop talk, there is one modification I've been playing with in model form and it looks good enough that I wanted to ask your opinion on taking one of your modified vee hulls and twisting the bottom towards the transom to a concave shape similar to the Shultz Reverse Deadrise design, which reportedly cuts fuel costs significantly. I thought about it might be applicable with your stitch and glue designs, say on the Newporter or Californian for example, although I wouldn't actually try it at home on a large project unless I had a marine engineer look at it. But in theory it "seems" to agree with your concept of stable multiple conditions fishing vessels that are low on energy consumption, but perhaps it's not really applicable on a 20' and under boat. Would love to hear your or other viewers opinion. Thanks again Jeff.
Jeff, I enjoy your videos, thanks for putting them up. I was wondering if you could do a video on expected life spans and maintenance of your boat designs in general?
Some changes should never be considered (say if you want to use toothpicks or fishnet instead of plywood), but YOU spend YOUR money however YOU want.... even if that means sticking it in a blender and using it as compost in the garden....
Thanks for the info Jeff. One point. You made an error in your calculations of widening the beam of the example you used towards the end of the video. The measurement for the bottom was 2' 3" 5/8.... that would be 27.625 NOT 26.625....that would then be multiplied by 1.08 to achieve the 8% increase in the beam.
I think a class in BOAT MODIFICATIONS would make more sense.... especially if you get with an appropriate college and get it (them) listed in the catalog and set up as 100 level online courses. MAR 131 (Marine ARchitecture) Minor Modifications to wood/fiberglass boat plans Adjusting size, what angles work for what and why, transom height, drilled rod holders, coolers, fish lockers, standard equipment measures. MAR 132 Basic Modifications & techniques of wood/fiberglass boat plans Curves, vessel draft changes, designing for plumbing, speed, weight, Offshore Brackets (built in verses bolt on & how) I’m not gonna lie.... the ONLY reason I commented is because I want to build in an Offshore Bracket that can also be used (when outboards are turned off) for easier entry to/exit from water for my dogs and myself.... and hey, anyone that has seen the videos of otters escaping Orcas by jumping on boats knows Offshore Brackets make that much easier on the poor little things (insert sappy violin music here). I would extend chines and keel, as well as adding frame(s), and those extensions of keel/chine/ply/fiberglass would be starting as far into the bracket as possible and going into rest of boat, not extra parts added behind transom and screwed on, but integral... other than that, I’m unsure what else needs to be done to make this work right, and not end up with the heavy motors breaking off bits of boat and dropping like an anchor leaving me in a boat that is missing its last four feet and wanting to join the motors at the bottom (just not as quickly)..... when done right, offshore brackets have a lot going for them and improve the usability/livability of a boat in drastic and measurable ways; when done/mounted wrong, offshore brackets are a literal ticking time bomb that WILL sink the boat, maybe in a shallow, maybe 100 miles offshore with thousands of feet between the surface where you are praying and the bottom where fish are swimming into the cabin for a look around..... (Still haven’t decided, probably would want to add to a Key West or Tangier. Something with enough room for a couple and two 30 pound dogs to do the loop and go back and forth to the Bahamas... I still wish you had a two cabin Chesapeake deadrise 35 feet or more long with pilot house on top of cabins-that Tanuki looks too long for home building within a decade). Good video Jeff.
I really enjoy your videos. I'm interested in buying plans for a 21' tiburon panga center console. I'm in Hawaii and enjoy offshore sportfishing. (trolling at 7-12knts, and stopping to baitfish). I was wondering if there was a way to place two 25 yamaha 4 stroke outboards on the back of one of these type boats, instead of one single engine. I've fished in (and been a deckhand on charter boats) California (Dana point) Florida (ST. pete) and now in Hawaii in the island of Oahu (Waianae). In Hawaii I've owned a , 27' home built murkami sampan, 32 ft Luhrs sportfisher, and a 208 (20ft) seaswirl, and a jetski and fished from all of them. The open ocean chop in Hawaiian waters is unlike anything I've experienced anywhere else. It can be a beautiful day, calm smooth waters and the wind can kick up, and large (unruly) chop can appear suddenly and be quite severe (2-3' chop coming from all directions). The reason I want to build one of your 21' tiburon pangas with 2 smaller engines is for fuel efficiency as well as dependability as I have broken down at sea on all of my other (bought used) boats and would feel more comfortable If I had more than 1 engine. Once again, I really enjoy your videos, and can tell that you know what you are talking about.
You do realize that once one engine quits, 85% of the time the second engine quits in the next few seconds. That theory doesn't work with boats and they cost nearly twice as much to buy and maintain. Fuel issues is why. Second, two 25 horse motors burn more than one 50 horse.
@@tjkid07 Thank you for the reply. I was unaware that breaking down at sea with two motors going down one right after the other was a common occurrence. I only remember when I had trouble out at sea wishing that I had another engine on board to get me back to harbor, lol, every time, I managed to get the boats running again with a little tinkering but always told myself that if I had another boat it would have two engines, and I'm leaning toward outboards this time. I really like the look of your 21' tiburon panga design, and believe I could manage to build one. Thanks for sending the link to your designs page, it was neat to see a "Hawaiian Sampan" section, it really took me back, as it was 20 years ago I had that boat. it was my first ocean boat I owned in Hawaii. I hope to be in the 3-4 gallon per hour range or less with two yamaha four strokes, trolling lures at 7-10 knts. I will have to think about a single engine, I know that twin engines will consume more fuel than the equal hp single but for my peace of mind I would prefer twin engines... You have given me a lot to think about. Thanks again for the reply. I will definitely be ordering a set of your plans, I just need to think about which one will work best for my needs.
Yes, however you have to glass the insides. Better for stitch and glue boats instead of ply on frame. Glassing the inside of ply on frame boats is very time and cost intensive.
No, you have to widen, heighten and lengthen all the same percentage, but yes, so long as you scale everything up or down, by no more than 10%. all's fine.
I have watched a lot of your videos and videos of those who have built your designs and really enjoy them all. I hope to someday build a boat. I was curious about this design, specifically why is it all closed in on top like a speed boat, when it seems to be more meant for fishing?
@@tjkid07 I did see the chalmette :) I really like it but I also like the pescadero dory. Not sure which would be better for my use. I live near Caballo lake NM and it's part of the Rio Grande river. So I need a skiff that can do shallows, choppy lake and running rivers. Would you recommend one over the other?
Sure you can print them any size you wish, check how much it will cost you with any blueprint printer, you'll probably be shocked, but hey, go for it of you think you need them. My only question would be WHY? Have you not looked at the method used to make these boats?
Thanks. I disagree with “go ahead, modify...” I feel emboldened to venture such an opinion, as I have decades of experience building bybb’s. OK. So not so many, most could ride atop the car, and all were open. The least successful was “my own design”; the most successful was basically a scaled up cement trough from a name designer (yes. A Bolgerism). If you want more’n 10% length, or more beam, or higher shear, pick a different plan. Mr. Spira must have 100. There’s the matter of aesthetics, to say nothing of engineering.
@@dennisharrington6055 I already paid $225.00 for the plans so I intend to use them. Guess I will simply have to do some research on how to increase the beam by one foot wider. Thank you for replying. U.S. Army, Ret. Texas
@@dennisharrington6055 I will not make this modification without consulting a Naval Architect to go over exactly what I want to change on the plan. Whatever it costs will be worth it to make certain I am doing things right when I begin construction.
Thanks Jeff. Always enjoy your talks even with the unedited senior moments hahaha. Hey I'm only 60 and I'm already getting those several times a day, especially as it's a challenge to stay mentally active stuck in the house every day for the last few months. Hope you and your family stay safe out there in California.
I guess it's normal for arm chair boat designers to think about ways to customize a boat plan. I'm certainly guilty as charged but I'm not smart enough or dumb enough to mess around with engineered plans other than the addition of a live well or seat/storage arrangements. I think that's still within my level of greenhorn expertise.
However, just as sort of shop talk, there is one modification I've been playing with in model form and it looks good enough that I wanted to ask your opinion on taking one of your modified vee hulls and twisting the bottom towards the transom to a concave shape similar to the Shultz Reverse Deadrise design, which reportedly cuts fuel costs significantly. I thought about it might be applicable with your stitch and glue designs, say on the Newporter or Californian for example, although I wouldn't actually try it at home on a large project unless I had a marine engineer look at it. But in theory it "seems" to agree with your concept of stable multiple conditions fishing vessels that are low on energy consumption, but perhaps it's not really applicable on a 20' and under boat. Would love to hear your or other viewers opinion. Thanks again Jeff.
Thanks. TH-cam has been a savior, having to hang out at home.
Jeff, I enjoy your videos, thanks for putting them up. I was wondering if you could do a video on expected life spans and maintenance of your boat designs in general?
Great idea, I will.
@@tjkid07 Cool, I look forward to it. It's something that has been in the back of my mind for quite a while while browsing your website and videos.
Perfect timing for me, Mr. Spira. Thanks.
It's your boat build it how you want.
GO FOR IT!!!
I would definitely build a scale model first but yeah sure why not. I think the take away from the video is just don't blame Jeff if it sinks LoL.
Some changes should never be considered (say if you want to use toothpicks or fishnet instead of plywood), but YOU spend YOUR money however YOU want.... even if that means sticking it in a blender and using it as compost in the garden....
Thanks for the info Jeff. One point. You made an error in your calculations of widening the beam of the example you used towards the end of the video.
The measurement for the bottom was 2' 3" 5/8.... that would be 27.625 NOT 26.625....that would then be multiplied by 1.08 to achieve the 8% increase in the beam.
RIP Jeff, you will be missed.
Great content. I have a dream of a pontoon/tritoon crossed with catamaran/trimaran. The goal would be the best of both worlds and not for sailing.
Thanks Jeff. Very informative. Cheers
Very informative and helpful for me. Thanks.
Wow this is gold! Learned a lot!
Thank you mister Spira. By the way Dudley Dix send his boat plans rolled.
Excellent
I think a class in BOAT MODIFICATIONS would make more sense.... especially if you get with an appropriate college and get it (them) listed in the catalog and set up as 100 level online courses.
MAR 131 (Marine ARchitecture) Minor Modifications to wood/fiberglass boat plans
Adjusting size, what angles work for what and why, transom height, drilled rod holders, coolers, fish lockers, standard equipment measures.
MAR 132 Basic Modifications & techniques of wood/fiberglass boat plans
Curves, vessel draft changes, designing for plumbing, speed, weight, Offshore Brackets (built in verses bolt on & how)
I’m not gonna lie.... the ONLY reason I commented is because I want to build in an Offshore Bracket that can also be used (when outboards are turned off) for easier entry to/exit from water for my dogs and myself.... and hey, anyone that has seen the videos of otters escaping Orcas by jumping on boats knows Offshore Brackets make that much easier on the poor little things (insert sappy violin music here). I would extend chines and keel, as well as adding frame(s), and those extensions of keel/chine/ply/fiberglass would be starting as far into the bracket as possible and going into rest of boat, not extra parts added behind transom and screwed on, but integral... other than that, I’m unsure what else needs to be done to make this work right, and not end up with the heavy motors breaking off bits of boat and dropping like an anchor leaving me in a boat that is missing its last four feet and wanting to join the motors at the bottom (just not as quickly)..... when done right, offshore brackets have a lot going for them and improve the usability/livability of a boat in drastic and measurable ways; when done/mounted wrong, offshore brackets are a literal ticking time bomb that WILL sink the boat, maybe in a shallow, maybe 100 miles offshore with thousands of feet between the surface where you are praying and the bottom where fish are swimming into the cabin for a look around.....
(Still haven’t decided, probably would want to add to a Key West or Tangier. Something with enough room for a couple and two 30 pound dogs to do the loop and go back and forth to the Bahamas... I still wish you had a two cabin Chesapeake deadrise 35 feet or more long with pilot house on top of cabins-that Tanuki looks too long for home building within a decade).
Good video Jeff.
You mentioned once that you had other plans not available on the website. Do you have any small sailing cats?
No, sorry.
@@tjkid07 Thanks for replying.
Robert Beverly
wharram
God bless his soul, anyone know how to get a plan and the free books after he passed away ?
I was just going to order my boat plans today and I found out the guy died and so I can't buy the plans I wanted. What a bummer!
I really enjoy your videos. I'm interested in buying plans for a 21' tiburon panga center console. I'm in Hawaii and enjoy offshore sportfishing. (trolling at 7-12knts, and stopping to baitfish). I was wondering if there was a way to place two 25 yamaha 4 stroke outboards on the back of one of these type boats, instead of one single engine. I've fished in (and been a deckhand on charter boats) California (Dana point) Florida (ST. pete) and now in Hawaii in the island of Oahu (Waianae). In Hawaii I've owned a , 27' home built murkami sampan, 32 ft Luhrs sportfisher, and a 208 (20ft) seaswirl, and a jetski and fished from all of them. The open ocean chop in Hawaiian waters is unlike anything I've experienced anywhere else. It can be a beautiful day, calm smooth waters and the wind can kick up, and large (unruly) chop can appear suddenly and be quite severe (2-3' chop coming from all directions). The reason I want to build one of your 21' tiburon pangas with 2 smaller engines is for fuel efficiency as well as dependability as I have broken down at sea on all of my other (bought used) boats and would feel more comfortable If I had more than 1 engine. Once again, I really enjoy your videos, and can tell that you know what you are talking about.
Here you go www.spirainternational.com/hp_wood_boats.html
You do realize that once one engine quits, 85% of the time the second engine quits in the next few seconds. That theory doesn't work with boats and they cost nearly twice as much to buy and maintain. Fuel issues is why.
Second, two 25 horse motors burn more than one 50 horse.
@@tjkid07 Thank you for the reply. I was unaware that breaking down at sea with two motors going down one right after the other was a common occurrence. I only remember when I had trouble out at sea wishing that I had another engine on board to get me back to harbor, lol, every time, I managed to get the boats running again with a little tinkering but always told myself that if I had another boat it would have two engines, and I'm leaning toward outboards this time. I really like the look of your 21' tiburon panga design, and believe I could manage to build one. Thanks for sending the link to your designs page, it was neat to see a "Hawaiian Sampan" section, it really took me back, as it was 20 years ago I had that boat. it was my first ocean boat I owned in Hawaii.
I hope to be in the 3-4 gallon per hour range or less with two yamaha four strokes, trolling lures at 7-10 knts. I will have to think about a single engine, I know that twin engines will consume more fuel than the equal hp single but for my peace of mind I would prefer twin engines... You have given me a lot to think about. Thanks again for the reply. I will definitely be ordering a set of your plans, I just need to think about which one will work best for my needs.
Have you ever used plascore instead of plywood?
Yes, however you have to glass the insides. Better for stitch and glue boats instead of ply on frame. Glassing the inside of ply on frame boats is very time and cost intensive.
Anyone know how to get plans?
would the widening 8% and lengthening 10% apply to your stitch and glue boats as well ?
No, you have to widen, heighten and lengthen all the same percentage, but yes, so long as you scale everything up or down, by no more than 10%. all's fine.
@@tjkid07 ok thanks ...
Do you sell plans for a micro skiff? Like 12 to 14 feet? Something rough and tuff to go in and out of my truck bed or would that be a custom design?
Yes, you bet, the Chalmette: spirainternational.com/hp_chal.php
I have watched a lot of your videos and videos of those who have built your designs and really enjoy them all. I hope to someday build a boat.
I was curious about this design, specifically why is it all closed in on top like a speed boat, when it seems to be more meant for fishing?
@@chrishoesing5455 Those are casting decks. You're supposed to stand up there when fishing.
@@tjkid07 Thanks for the reply, now I feel a little silly. So it's like a bass boat then... I like it.
@@tjkid07 I did see the chalmette :) I really like it but I also like the pescadero dory. Not sure which would be better for my use. I live near Caballo lake NM and it's part of the Rio Grande river. So I need a skiff that can do shallows, choppy lake and running rivers. Would you recommend one over the other?
Can plans be reproduced in full scale?
Sure you can print them any size you wish, check how much it will cost you with any blueprint printer, you'll probably be shocked, but hey, go for it of you think you need them. My only question would be WHY? Have you not looked at the method used to make these boats?
Thanks. I disagree with “go ahead, modify...” I feel emboldened to venture such an opinion, as I have decades of experience building bybb’s. OK. So not so many, most could ride atop the car, and all were open. The least successful was “my own design”; the most successful was basically a scaled up cement trough from a name designer (yes. A Bolgerism). If you want more’n 10% length, or more beam, or higher shear, pick a different plan. Mr. Spira must have 100. There’s the matter of aesthetics, to say nothing of engineering.
Any suggestions on increasing the beam on an 18 ft. boat from 4 1/2 ft. wide to 5 1/2 ft. wide?
Richard Herrington Yeah, BUY A DIFFERENT SET OF PLANS!
@@dennisharrington6055 I already paid $225.00 for the plans so I intend to use them. Guess I will simply have to do some research on how to increase the beam by one foot wider. Thank you for replying. U.S. Army, Ret. Texas
Richard Herrington well then, like the other guy wrote, “GO FOR IT!”
@@dennisharrington6055 I will not make this modification without consulting a Naval Architect to go over exactly what I want to change on the plan. Whatever it costs will be worth it to make certain I am doing things right when I begin construction.