In 1976 my father built a ply on frame 12 foot runabout and painted it outside with 2-pack iso-cyanate white and inside 2-pack boat varnish. I helped him repaint it about 1989, 13 years later. The white was still quite good, but the varnish on the topsides was badly cracked up. Once done it was almost like new but should have been done 5 years earlier to prevent damage to the wood from cracked varnish. Note, the boat was always stored covered and in a shed.
Hi Jeff…thanks for keeping us boat builders informed with up to date info. You didn’t mention anything about how epoxy coating the wood helps prevents root. I fiberglassed the outside of the boat and epoxy sealed the entire inside then painted everything. Perhaps you could discuss how the epoxy coating helps aid in longevity if the paint/varnish.
In the philippines i mix sbout 3 putty knifes of each part of marine epoxy and 1/3 gallon of lacquer thinner and mix it well then paint it on your wood and put 3 to 4 coats on all bare wood and it does an amazing job of water proofing the wood, then i apply 2 or 3 coats of marine epoxy primer then several coats of epoxy enamel paint and that seems to keep the wood dry no matter how much water sits in the hull. No fiberglass at all. 😁☔💦🏝️
Great information Jeff!, thanks, I soon be a new boat builder of one of your 18’ or 20’ boat models. My only problem is what of yours model it’s best for me and my family to recreational use and fishing in Puerto Rico lakes. I don’t decide between Carolina Dory or a Squiff for that proposal. Can you help me to decide? Thanks for you’re experienced and well appreciate opinion! That’s be our family project this year!
As an industrial chemist specializing in paints with 40 years experience and a lazy maintenance guy, I just wouldn't varnish anything outside. Its never the varnish that fails its the fact that UV passes through varnish or PU or any clear coating and destrpys the wood lignin and you can not stop that without pigment. As for enamel you are quite correct there is very little difference between reasonable quality enamel house paint and marine enamel apart from the price and label, often it comes from the same tank.
in short: Keep it dry, drain it because of the rainwater comin in, ventilate it to keep it dry! Pump it to drain it and keep it dry. if you take it out, make sure its DRAINED! .... 10.45: Second thing is the finish! Paint it and allways repaint it!
Yes, it will definitely help, but you have to stir it enough to get it to dissolve and that means moving it around. So as long as you're pumping it around to dissolve the salt, you might as well pump it out of the boat. Best bet is to pump it out and put salt into a dry bilge so that anything that gets in meets concentrated salt, but you know that will promote corrosion in dissimilar metals.
Maintenance is made easier with quality materials which do not rot as quickly cheap lumber is prone to fungus and is less dense so soon becomes spongy. Great construction fan ventilation from solar and best materials you can gather from old furniture do not use cheap lumber!!!!
Another Awesome and informative video from Jeff Spira! Because of him, I am able to afford my dream of offshore fishing!
RIP Jeff you were a wealth of knowledge and an inspiration to us all…
In 1976 my father built a ply on frame 12 foot runabout and painted it outside with 2-pack iso-cyanate white and inside 2-pack boat varnish. I helped him repaint it about 1989, 13 years later. The white was still quite good, but the varnish on the topsides was badly cracked up. Once done it was almost like new but should have been done 5 years earlier to prevent damage to the wood from cracked varnish. Note, the boat was always stored covered and in a shed.
Hi Jeff…thanks for keeping us boat builders informed with up to date info. You didn’t mention anything about how epoxy coating the wood helps prevents root. I fiberglassed the outside of the boat and epoxy sealed the entire inside then painted everything. Perhaps you could discuss how the epoxy coating helps aid in longevity if the paint/varnish.
We used to use old motor oil wiped down the sides of our pirogues every couple of years with excellent results. Another great video Mr. Spira!
In the philippines i mix sbout 3 putty knifes of each part of marine epoxy and 1/3 gallon of lacquer thinner and mix it well then paint it on your wood and put 3 to 4 coats on all bare wood and it does an amazing job of water proofing the wood, then i apply 2 or 3 coats of marine epoxy primer then several coats of epoxy enamel paint and that seems to keep the wood dry no matter how much water sits in the hull. No fiberglass at all. 😁☔💦🏝️
Is this a joke? Sorry, I'm not a boat guy. If you're serious. I'm interested to know.
@@nledelnr yes it works great. The enamel i use is epoxy enamel for the final layer.
Excellent advice. Thank you for this episode. Take care.
Great information Jeff!, thanks, I soon be a new boat builder of one of your 18’ or 20’ boat models. My only problem is what of yours model it’s best for me and my family to recreational use and fishing in Puerto Rico lakes. I don’t decide between Carolina Dory or a Squiff for that proposal. Can you help me to decide? Thanks for you’re experienced and well appreciate opinion! That’s be our family project this year!
As an industrial chemist specializing in paints with 40 years experience and a lazy maintenance guy, I just wouldn't varnish anything outside. Its never the varnish that fails its the fact that UV passes through varnish or PU or any clear coating and destrpys the wood lignin and you can not stop that without pigment. As for enamel you are quite correct there is very little difference between reasonable quality enamel house paint and marine enamel apart from the price and label, often it comes from the same tank.
Thanks for the comments!
Why not epoxy coat the interior too and then paint over the epoxy? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm not a boat guy or a chemist.
@@nledelnr definitely valid I do that often as I said the paint cuts out the UV light which is the damaging force.
Thanks Jeff, another great video.
,
do you think it s posible to build a 3rd toon with plywood
What would be the preferred or easiest method to strip varnish or paint from the boat? Sandblasting ? Sandpaper? Chemical strippers?
in short: Keep it dry, drain it because of the rainwater comin in, ventilate it to keep it dry! Pump it to drain it and keep it dry. if you take it out, make sure its DRAINED! .... 10.45: Second thing is the finish! Paint it and allways repaint it!
Do you really have to strip it? Can't you sand it down and repaint.
You fail to mention an OIL finish for bare interior wood surfaces...like Deks Olje...penetrating and very easy to recoat yearly...UV has little effect
what kind of oil are you talking about? A drying oil like teak or linseed oil.
If a lazy person has to leave a boat out where rain collects, would scattering a few pounds of salt in the bottom protect from rot?
Yes, it will definitely help, but you have to stir it enough to get it to dissolve and that means moving it around. So as long as you're pumping it around to dissolve the salt, you might as well pump it out of the boat. Best bet is to pump it out and put salt into a dry bilge so that anything that gets in meets concentrated salt, but you know that will promote corrosion in dissimilar metals.
Very helpful, thank you.
Maintenance is made easier with quality materials which do not rot as quickly cheap lumber is prone to fungus and is less dense so soon becomes spongy. Great construction fan ventilation from solar and best materials you can gather from old furniture do not use cheap lumber!!!!
R.I.P. Mr. Spira
What about fiberglassing the interior as well as the exterior. Zero maintenance to worry about
Zero maintenance fir a year or two until the wood rots out because of trapped moisture. It'll last a LOT longer if you let it dry out.