Webinar: Tips for Framing with I-Joists
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- I-joists are strong, dimensionally stable, lightweight, and they come in long lengths, which often makes them a smart alternative to solid framing lumber. But their unique shape and required fastening methods can add a different set of challenges when incorporating them into a project. That’s why we’ve invited experienced builders Mike Guertin, Ben Bogie, and Aron Jones, plus Weyerhaeuser Trus Joist Territory Manager Steve Rudowsky, to share the techniques they use to make I-Joist installation jobs go more smoothly.
In this hour-long discussion, we’ll cover as many common concerns as possible, including:
Jigs for marking and cutting I-joists
Adding blocking and squash blocks
Fastening methods for preventing squeaks
Rim joist options
How to avoid splitting flanges when fastening
Field repairs for damaged joists
Dealing with fire resistance requirements
... And more
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you guys are the best for this! thank you for putting this out there
It's nothing like picking through a stack at Home Depo. All delivery of materials should be inspected for damage, and proper dunage to support as flat as possible. PL adhesive is used on top of the I B joist do you put two lines of it or squiggle line? How about Deck Screws to secure the subfloor? Would you coat the ends of a IBW joist to protect it from water absorption from foundation. Do they make treated IBW joists for non-cellar open-air posted/columb supported foundation?
Question for you guys. I am building an Aframe style home. I would like to use 12" deep I joists for the rafters. Theses I joists will sit on a 12" plate on top of the subfloor. What is the best way to join the peak ends together? There will be basically no load on this home, as it has a 12/30 pitch and a metal roof. I believe I've seen people make a jig and cut triangles at to fit over the joint and nail them together. I don't know if this is the best way or if there should be a ridge.
I am still not sold on this method/technology - Dimensional lumber has so many more benefits and makes repairs so much less complicated. This system creates major headaches just to hang some drywall or ceiling tile. Increase in labor, costs and repairs just turn me off.
How about replacing I-joist rim joists that are soft from repeated wetting?
Was watching your video and at 1:10:58 you show some roof framing there and it seems that the ridge beams are smaller than your rafter cuts. How are you circumventing this around 2018 IRC 8.02.3 where it states that the ridge beam shall not be less than the plumb cut of the rafters?
Any suggestions on how to to repair a craked (bottom) flange on a TJS15 I-Joist (11-7/8" @ 19.2" c.c.).
I would never trust i-joists in my home, only solid wood beams. The manufacturer says is load tested but what warranty do you have from them if it fails in the long run? Will the manufacturer rebuild your home? No, you will have to go through insurance which will double your rates after the repair is complete.
Same here, I avoid anything osb related. I'm happy osb and I-joist exist. Imagine how much plywood would cost if it was the only sheathing and subfloor option. So yay! Houses are already built crappy, lets find ways to make them worse and cost the same or more. The only problem may be early forest harvest for wood chips versus longer growth for plywood and dimensional lumber. Hopefully this doesn't influence forestry management much outside normal tree thinning and their use for wood chips to maximize growth/profit per acre. If the demand for these products goes up there may be fewer forests that reach maturity for dimensional lumber and quality plywood.
Well they have been in widespread use for about 35 years so that might tell you something.
ALWAYS Overbuild.