How to maintain your Scuba Cylinder, Tank or Bottle at home

After not being able to sort out a leak my wife seemed to have from her pillar valve / first stage, I discovered that the threads and the back of the valve were pretty grubby. this could be from a mix of dirt, moisture or grease.
In this video, I show you how I removed it and resolved the leak we thought was caused by a faulty O ring on the DIN fitting of the first stage.
Problem solved using a small brass brush and a clean cloth.
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[@davekendrick7231]

I’ve got a 300 bar cylinder I use for air rifle filling, when you open the din valve the air escapes from what I can only assume Is a release hole in the valve it’s self, do I have to buy a new valve? Or can it be serviced and repaired, thanks

[@AndytheNorthernDiver]

Hi Dave, I’m not an expert in this so I’d suggest taking it to a local dive shop and ask them to look at it. That said what you’re saying is that if you open the valve, gas escapes. I would expect that, so assuming you mean with your whip attached to the cylinder and PCP, and gas is heard to be escaping the system. I expect that your O ring is missing, faulty or damaged at the DIN end. These are easy to find and replace as they’re a common size. Again, the local dive or gun shop should be able to advise on this. Hope that helps mate. Thanks for watching

[@charg5583]

Hi Andy, I recently came back from a dive trip in Mexico and most of the tanks from the dive center that our group used had a steady stream of bubbles coming out of the pillar valve/first stage - similar to what you described. No one seemed concerned about this and the DM said it was caused by the "O" ring. How serious an issued is this? What's the worst case scenario during a dive with this problem? It makes me wonder if those tanks were up-to-date for their visual inspection.

[@AndytheNorthernDiver]

It’s like anything mate simple fix on surface / edge of the incident pit, at depth could be a nightmare

[@maxtorque2277]

Internal rusting is really only because of one cause and that is "damp" air fills, ie air fills with a high moisture content. These are pretty rare in most places these days, but they do happen. No1 reason is because the compressor being used has a failed or incorrectly set (or missing....) Pressure Maintaining Valve.
You can think of air as a bit like a sponge, the more you squeeze it, the less water it can hold (in the form of water vapour). This means that as you increase the pressure of humid air the water vapour present continuously condenses and comes out of saturation. This physical property is used to make sure that breathing air compressors put out air that is very dry, but only if the compressor is actually doing significant compressing! The PMV ensures that even if the cylinder being filled is empty, the compressor and water traps/filters are being held at around 140 to 180 bar, meaning that for any amount of humid air going in, only 140th to 180th the humidty comes out (the rest condensates in the water trap/filter). If that PMV is not operating, the compressor is only actually pushing air up the pressure of the cylinder itself at that moment, so the compression is reduced, and (much) more water gets through

[@AndytheNorthernDiver]

Everyday is a school day thanks for the heads up

[@mikesbigadventures194]

Great video. I’m looking at purchasing cylinders. Any pointers on total cost of ownership beyond the purchase price. Stuff like regular maintenance etc. and if there’s a difference between air and Nitrox cylinders

[@AndytheNorthernDiver]

There’s another video I’ve done mate about cylinder types if you search through this playlist