I’d this sorts my clutch pedal you’ll be an absolute legend. Had the mechanics have a look when i got my van MOT’d an they said it’ll be an expensive job.
Hi I’ve just replace the master cylinder like you and I’ve tried to bleed no oil coming out pedal to floor what your advise no leaks nothing just won’t bleed just air coming out
Once you have an airlock in the master cylinder the only effective way of clearing it is to reverse bleed the system i.e force brake fluid from the bleed nipple back into the system. You will find a number of TH-cam videos on how to do this.
To bleed this type of clutch you normally need to force the fluid through the system. You may be lucky and be able to pump the clutch up to pressure just using the pedal, but if you have a lot of air in the sytem them you will need an external fluid pump. You can find these in a number of youtube videos.
Can you explain the bleed process more please? So I replaced my master cylinder. Once done, clutch just slammed to the floor and stayed there. I did what you did with the nipple and the pipe. Am I just meant to pump the clutch shit loads at that point until it stops slamming to the ground and staying there? I felt like I pumped it quite a bit and nothing changed. How many pumps we talking ballpark? 20 or 200? How can I know when it's time to tighten the nipple back up? Cheers
@@wapsac Ended up being a crappy part from ebay that was the problem. Got a new OEM master cylinder and a vacuum pump and had it fixed in 10 minutes! Cheers
What diameter is the tubing you’ve attached to the bleed nipple? Also the bracket holding it is broken as when I tried to unloosen it, it’s just shoogling around and making it impossible to turn. Any ideas of how to stabilize this or can the bracket be purchased? Thank you Thanks for the video, was great to see clearly what I was meant to be doing.
Hello, there is a similar piston under the clutch pedal in my 2011 Renault Trafic 2 vehicle and it is leaking oil, but it is different from the part in this video and it seems very difficult to disassemble. I need help on this issue, can you please help?
Your clutch is dragging meaning there is still load on the gears when you are trying to change gear. Could be air in the system or either of the hydraulic cylinder seals could have failed. Worth trying to bleed the system first as this is the lowest cost option.
I had my clutch pedal stuck to the floor yesterday and found your video, this is a great one and I will definitely try it as soon as I get the new cylinder. 2 questions 1 - how can we be sure it is not a problem with the slave cylinder ? how do you access the nipple and what is the process to bleed the circuit ? Thanks
The slave cylinder on the Vivaro requires the gearbox to be removed so not an easy fix. They are a plastic sealed unit so cannot be repaired only replaced. If the slave cylinder is faulty it will almost certainly be leaking and you will find brake fluid dripping from the joint between the gearbox and the engine. If the clutch pedal is stuck to the floor you will have air in the system but for it to get in, there must be a faulty seal or pipe joint and you will see brake fluid leaking out. If you do not find any leaks then it is most likely the seals in the master cylinder that are at fault so a replacement is required as they are not repairable. The bleed nipple is on the flexible hose, near where the slave cylinder enters the front of the gearbox. Bleeding is an absolute pain and usually requires reverse bleeding using a pressurised tool.
If it was your slave it would stick to the floor each time. If it's the master (usually a clicking noise when depressed), then it will get stuck to the floor periodically and you'd still have a good pedal when you pull it up. Assuming the master isn't leaking of course, which is easy to see if it is.
I'm having trouble with my van today! My pedal goes down. I find I'm having to pump the pedal if I don't change gear for a few miles..I have no leaks and fluid is full! Could this be the master cylinder? Thank you
It could be a number of issues, if there is no obvious leaks of hydraulic fluid and the reservoir is filled to the correct level then its probably either you master cylinder or slave cylinder at fault. But check you fluid level just on the off chance that you have a small leak that has drained the cylinder over time and allowed air to enter the system. The next cheapest option is to replace the master cylinder. The slave cylinder requires the gearbox to be removed to gain access.
@@wapsac thanks for the reply mate. I have never let my fluid run low and no visible leaks from gearbox or master cylinder. I'm gonna try the master cylinder first and hope that works!
It could be, but not necessarily, the pedal arm has a spring which assists in returning the pedal. Check this is still in place. May be worth replacing to see if it improves things.
A cylinder with seals that are starting to fail can show a number of symptoms, the main issues are usually a soft feel to the clutch pedal, the pedal pressure fades, clutch will not disengage fully when pedal is depressed, excess pedal travel, and sometimes signs of clutch fluid leaking from around the moving parts of the cylinder. These clutch symptoms could also be due to the slave cylinder failing or flexy pipes loosing their integrity and swelling under pressure.
Super thanks just changed mine was told by a garage it’s a 2 hour job literally did mine in 2 minutes maximum so helpful thank you
Been at mine for 3 lol
Nice. Curiously seems to be the only video on YT regarding this subject.
On top there's no BS talk, just what it's wanted and needed.
Thumbs up. ;-)
Glad it was helpful!
I’d this sorts my clutch pedal you’ll be an absolute legend. Had the mechanics have a look when i got my van MOT’d an they said it’ll be an expensive job.
Hi ive got a 15 plate vivaro pedal sticking to floor? , no leaks, thanks great video
At last a video that passes on information concisely with out wrapping it in so much padding you lose track.
Hi I’ve just replace the master cylinder like you and I’ve tried to bleed no oil coming out pedal to floor what your advise no leaks nothing just won’t bleed just air coming out
Once you have an airlock in the master cylinder the only effective way of clearing it is to reverse bleed the system i.e force brake fluid from the bleed nipple back into the system. You will find a number of TH-cam videos on how to do this.
Can you tell me what's going on with the plastic pipe on the bleed nipple... What do I need to do? Put this pipe on then just keep pumping the clutch?
To bleed this type of clutch you normally need to force the fluid through the system. You may be lucky and be able to pump the clutch up to pressure just using the pedal, but if you have a lot of air in the sytem them you will need an external fluid pump. You can find these in a number of youtube videos.
Does this fella have a video on bleeding the clutch ?
Can you explain the bleed process more please? So I replaced my master cylinder. Once done, clutch just slammed to the floor and stayed there. I did what you did with the nipple and the pipe. Am I just meant to pump the clutch shit loads at that point until it stops slamming to the ground and staying there? I felt like I pumped it quite a bit and nothing changed. How many pumps we talking ballpark? 20 or 200? How can I know when it's time to tighten the nipple back up? Cheers
To bleed the clutch effectively you need a vacuum pump. There are lots of videos on youtube how to do this.
@@wapsac Ended up being a crappy part from ebay that was the problem. Got a new OEM master cylinder and a vacuum pump and had it fixed in 10 minutes! Cheers
Great video, will a worn clutch master cylinder make the clutch pedal heavy?
It may make it feel heavy, but a worn clutch will also make the pedal heavy.
What diameter is the tubing you’ve attached to the bleed nipple? Also the bracket holding it is broken as when I tried to unloosen it, it’s just shoogling around and making it impossible to turn. Any ideas of how to stabilize this or can the bracket be purchased? Thank you
Thanks for the video, was great to see clearly what I was meant to be doing.
You can use 4mmid pipe, ty holding the bleed union with mole grips, it's awkward to get access
Hello, there is a similar piston under the clutch pedal in my 2011 Renault Trafic 2 vehicle and it is leaking oil, but it is different from the part in this video and it seems very difficult to disassemble. I need help on this issue, can you please help?
Weirdly today my clutch pedal went from high position to a lower position, andvis still working. A worrying odd thing
Hi
Traffic 2013 , the clutch works fine but it's very hard to push pedal down
What could it be?
Its almost certainly a worn clutch. Gets heavier as the friction plate and pressure plate wear.
My clutch has gone lower amd I can’t sift gear stick to any gear, what can be the cause ?
Thank you
Your clutch is dragging meaning there is still load on the gears when you are trying to change gear. Could be air in the system or either of the hydraulic cylinder seals could have failed. Worth trying to bleed the system first as this is the lowest cost option.
Made that look so easy. How much would it cost to get this done in a garage?
Just had mine done for £280. Wish i would have watched this first
Was the pedal just going halfway for a bit then just hitting the floor
No, the main problem was clutch pedal fade and then the pedal would not return fully.
I had my clutch pedal stuck to the floor yesterday and found your video, this is a great one and I will definitely try it as soon as I get the new cylinder. 2 questions 1 - how can we be sure it is not a problem with the slave cylinder ? how do you access the nipple and what is the process to bleed the circuit ? Thanks
The slave cylinder on the Vivaro requires the gearbox to be removed so not an easy fix. They are a plastic sealed unit so cannot be repaired only replaced. If the slave cylinder is faulty it will almost certainly be leaking and you will find brake fluid dripping from the joint between the gearbox and the engine. If the clutch pedal is stuck to the floor you will have air in the system but for it to get in, there must be a faulty seal or pipe joint and you will see brake fluid leaking out. If you do not find any leaks then it is most likely the seals in the master cylinder that are at fault so a replacement is required as they are not repairable. The bleed nipple is on the flexible hose, near where the slave cylinder enters the front of the gearbox. Bleeding is an absolute pain and usually requires reverse bleeding using a pressurised tool.
If it was your slave it would stick to the floor each time. If it's the master (usually a clicking noise when depressed), then it will get stuck to the floor periodically and you'd still have a good pedal when you pull it up.
Assuming the master isn't leaking of course, which is easy to see if it is.
Do you have about an inch of free travel at the top of the pedal before the clutch starts to engage? Thanks Shaun
yes, I have the same after its been bled
@@wapsac cbeers mate 👍
very good, going to do one now thanks
paul, is it a similar procedure on a vauxhall movano? 2015
Not done a Movano so not sure, maybe someone else can comment
Hi. What year model and engine size(1.9l, 2.0l, 2.5l) is this van, which you worked on in this video, please?
Its a 2012 Vivaro 2.0 diesel
What is the size of the bleeding tube did you use?
Its a 4mm ID soft plastic tube
What size pipe do I need thank
4-5mm ID pipe usually fits ok, just needs warming to soften the plastic pipe so it pushes over the bleed nipple.
Hey what year is your Reanault Traffic from? I have one from 2013 , it that the same?
its a 2012, so probably the same
I'm having trouble with my van today! My pedal goes down. I find I'm having to pump the pedal if I don't change gear for a few miles..I have no leaks and fluid is full! Could this be the master cylinder? Thank you
It could be a number of issues, if there is no obvious leaks of hydraulic fluid and the reservoir is filled to the correct level then its probably either you master cylinder or slave cylinder at fault. But check you fluid level just on the off chance that you have a small leak that has drained the cylinder over time and allowed air to enter the system. The next cheapest option is to replace the master cylinder. The slave cylinder requires the gearbox to be removed to gain access.
@@wapsac thanks for the reply mate. I have never let my fluid run low and no visible leaks from gearbox or master cylinder. I'm gonna try the master cylinder first and hope that works!
Wish i never started installing the Master cylinder, that part was easy.. trying to undo the bleeder nipple was impossible now proper stuck
Thank you for this video
My clutch pedal is slow to return, will this be the master cylinder too?
It could be, but not necessarily, the pedal arm has a spring which assists in returning the pedal. Check this is still in place. May be worth replacing to see if it improves things.
Sorry but how you realise is master cylinder...or what symptoms have car...?
A cylinder with seals that are starting to fail can show a number of symptoms, the main issues are usually a soft feel to the clutch pedal, the pedal pressure fades, clutch will not disengage fully when pedal is depressed, excess pedal travel, and sometimes signs of clutch fluid leaking from around the moving parts of the cylinder. These clutch symptoms could also be due to the slave cylinder failing or flexy pipes loosing their integrity and swelling under pressure.
Nice one bud 🤘
Thanks.
Wow so bloody quick ...sadly I can see a mechanic getting a rager on the 300 quid labour
Grate video. Would of been even better if you sed what the symptoms was that made you replace the master cylinder in the first place 😅