Like others I found this method just would not work, don't know how Packible makes it look easy. What I discovered after thinking on it a bit, is that it works approaching it from above, hard to describe but here goes. Narrow flat blade screwdriver, insert in hole from above at an angle just below the red nub, pry back gently far enough for nub to clear, pull rail out, you are using the nub as a fulcrum. The screwdriver blade acts a guide for the nub to clear the black top. I also found helpful with the pulling part by using another screwdriver at bottom, slip in along side the cap far enough to catch the end cap, pry to use as a lever to get the rail moving. Afterwards I trimmed the nub down, drilled it and used an M6 cap screw, which essentially replaces the nub, similar to the caps you can buy from Packable. The head perfectly recesses into the hole in the black top.
HEAT GUN! I struggled with this until i thought to use a heat gun. Hit the black part with the hole with a heat gun for a few seconds before doing what he does. makes all the difference, slips right out and doesnt crack your plastic
Very good video and exactly what I did to mount the Joey Jr. brackets on my drawers. Considering that it's just that little tab that's holding the rail in place, have you considered making a clamp that would fasten to the bottom to reinforce the rail to hold more weight? Something similar to the Joey clamps but with just a set screw and no mounting bolts might do it. I'll be attaching a table to mine and have considered adding a screw through the tab to add some weight-handling ability, but that would probably void the warranty.
I had not until I made this video and I could see the potential need for that if you put a good bit of weight on there. I was actually thinking about making a 3D printed part to replace the red part on top the rail. So it would be identical except in place of the tab I’d add threaded insert so you could put a bolt through the black hole to hold it in place instead. Would not involve drilling into anything or modifying anything that can be 100% put back to original so shouldn’t void any warranties.
My experience is prying from the top is much easier and less chance of causing the corner to crack as jmullis suggested. Yes, I cracked my when I follow this method.
I am new to Packout and bought the 1.5 base plate and found the boxes with rails do not allow another box next to it. Ever cut the ears for the rails off to make it fit? Curious if you have before i start hacking away
I decided to man up and just use a bunch of force on it. I also used a air heat gun to soften it up. In the end I realized it’s not just the black part you have to pry up but the red plastic part just below the tab of the top of the rail that you have to contend with too. Otherwise it doesn’t budge. I ended up taking out the bottom on both rails on the same side and then pried the top up. I’ll access it from below for my uses. There’s little plastic holders along the side I softened up with some heat so appears all good now.
@mrDevanWright you are correct, it is different on the 3 drawer… the red plastic actually blocks the tab shown, you cannot slide it down as shown. The way i got it to work without breaking the black piece was: 1: remove the red feet at the bottom on both sides 2: take a screwdriver and hammer the stacking lid lightly until it pops up. the legs will move through the holes and up, the tab stays in place. 3: push the legs up until you have enough opening to slide the rail accessory on. 4: re-assemble failed on my first time following the video but after pulling it open I discovered this technique that works with the 3 drawer.
I split my black plastic on the top as well with the 3 drawer. Once I got it out I noticed there is a screw on top holding the red plastic to the rail like the bottom. I didn’t do this but I’d imagine you could drill a 1/4 hole in line with the rail from the top and get at that screw. Loosen it and the rail would drop from the top down.
I didn’t even think about using a dryer and couldn’t get the screwdriver to push it enough and not bend up and mar the plastic so…..I used a drill, m-18, with a drill bit that fits perfectly into the hole. Used the drill on speed 1, so it didn’t take off on on me. Perfect. I wasn’t gunna use the old part anyway seeing I replaced it with PACKIBLE parts.
I am just showing how to do it. Milwaukee does not advertise these rails to be removable. They are not necessarily meant to come out. that said if done right they can be removed and inserted without any damage to the box. But its not a quality issue with milwaukee at all.
@@packibletool I diagree. Milwaukee should be using a plastic that doesn't crack so easy for the price...and definitely not using that crappy red tab as the sole source of holding the rail in. I have about 30 packout cases and every single one of them has some oddity where they tried to save a buck like that plastic tab.
Performing this technique will stretch the black plastic and crack it eventually. You're better off drilling out the red plastic holders and then adding your own screws.
Drill out the red stoppers a bit, clean it out with a screw driver then use his technique to gently take it out. Drill a hole and install a screw to replace the red stopper you drilled out. Done.
Like others I found this method just would not work, don't know how Packible makes it look easy. What I discovered after thinking on it a bit, is that it works approaching it from above, hard to describe but here goes. Narrow flat blade screwdriver, insert in hole from above at an angle just below the red nub, pry back gently far enough for nub to clear, pull rail out, you are using the nub as a fulcrum. The screwdriver blade acts a guide for the nub to clear the black top. I also found helpful with the pulling part by using another screwdriver at bottom, slip in along side the cap far enough to catch the end cap, pry to use as a lever to get the rail moving. Afterwards I trimmed the nub down, drilled it and used an M6 cap screw, which essentially replaces the nub, similar to the caps you can buy from Packable. The head perfectly recesses into the hole in the black top.
HEAT GUN! I struggled with this until i thought to use a heat gun. Hit the black part with the hole with a heat gun for a few seconds before doing what he does. makes all the difference, slips right out and doesnt crack your plastic
Exactly what I needed to find out. Perfect video, thanks!
Very good video and exactly what I did to mount the Joey Jr. brackets on my drawers. Considering that it's just that little tab that's holding the rail in place, have you considered making a clamp that would fasten to the bottom to reinforce the rail to hold more weight? Something similar to the Joey clamps but with just a set screw and no mounting bolts might do it. I'll be attaching a table to mine and have considered adding a screw through the tab to add some weight-handling ability, but that would probably void the warranty.
I had not until I made this video and I could see the potential need for that if you put a good bit of weight on there. I was actually thinking about making a 3D printed part to replace the red part on top the rail. So it would be identical except in place of the tab I’d add threaded insert so you could put a bolt through the black hole to hold it in place instead. Would not involve drilling into anything or modifying anything that can be 100% put back to original so shouldn’t void any warranties.
@@packibletool Great idea! You can count on a sale from me if you printed a part like that.
@@packibletoolneed. The tab is so annoying
Well, I just unscrewed the cap and screwed it back on once the Joey was placed. Lil brain fart moment
I added extra screws to the bottom. Super strong now.
Thank you so much very helpful, and straight to the point
My experience is prying from the top is much easier and less chance of causing the corner to crack as jmullis suggested. Yes, I cracked my when I follow this method.
Hair dryer helps to soften the plastic. Try it. You can thank me later. ;)
I am new to Packout and bought the 1.5 base plate and found the boxes with rails do not allow another box next to it. Ever cut the ears for the rails off to make it fit? Curious if you have before i start hacking away
Can you show this on the 3-Drawer variant? Tried and broke the black cover.
Its exactly the same to the best of my knowledge
Yea it doesn’t appear to work the same on the 3 drawer variant
I decided to man up and just use a bunch of force on it. I also used a air heat gun to soften it up. In the end I realized it’s not just the black part you have to pry up but the red plastic part just below the tab of the top of the rail that you have to contend with too. Otherwise it doesn’t budge. I ended up taking out the bottom on both rails on the same side and then pried the top up. I’ll access it from below for my uses. There’s little plastic holders along the side I softened up with some heat so appears all good now.
@mrDevanWright you are correct, it is different on the 3 drawer… the red plastic actually blocks the tab shown, you cannot slide it down as shown. The way i got it to work without breaking the black piece was:
1: remove the red feet at the bottom on both sides
2: take a screwdriver and hammer the stacking lid lightly until it pops up. the legs will move through the holes and up, the tab stays in place.
3: push the legs up until you have enough opening to slide the rail accessory on.
4: re-assemble
failed on my first time following the video but after pulling it open I discovered this technique that works with the 3 drawer.
I split my black plastic on the top as well with the 3 drawer. Once I got it out I noticed there is a screw on top holding the red plastic to the rail like the bottom. I didn’t do this but I’d imagine you could drill a 1/4 hole in line with the rail from the top and get at that screw. Loosen it and the rail would drop from the top down.
It helps to leverage the bar out with another big flate blade from the bottom as there is a slit
I like others followed you exactely but black cracked, and still did not slide out. Ill keep trying.
I didn’t even think about using a dryer and couldn’t get the screwdriver to push it enough and not bend up and mar the plastic so…..I used a drill, m-18, with a drill bit that fits perfectly into the hole. Used the drill on speed 1, so it didn’t take off on on me. Perfect. I wasn’t gunna use the old part anyway seeing I replaced it with PACKIBLE parts.
Do you know of a source to purchase replacement rails and other packout parts? Great stuff
I believe you can get replacement rails directly from milwaukee. And other parts. Otherwise, I am not aware of any other places you can get.
Dern, 0 for 2 on trying this... cracked the black cover. 🤬 Just discovered your rail cap mod & that seems to be solution.
Indeed it is! :)
How do you disassemble the 2 drawer toolbox so I can repair the drawer slide?
How can i remove the top to fix the drawer slides?
What’s the reason for removing the rails?
That's what I'd like to know
Ugh, tried this and the molding split right down the middle with very little pressure. Bad design. Should be easier.
Would it help to unlatch it first?
Nope
Why would you want to remove that ?
In order to add aftermarket accessories.
This video is BS. It doesn’t work. Milwaukee needs to improve their quality.
I am just showing how to do it. Milwaukee does not advertise these rails to be removable. They are not necessarily meant to come out. that said if done right they can be removed and inserted without any damage to the box. But its not a quality issue with milwaukee at all.
@@packibletool I diagree. Milwaukee should be using a plastic that doesn't crack so easy for the price...and definitely not using that crappy red tab as the sole source of holding the rail in.
I have about 30 packout cases and every single one of them has some oddity where they tried to save a buck like that plastic tab.
@@PowerScissor Checkout our new video where we fix the tab issue!
Performing this technique will stretch the black plastic and crack it eventually. You're better off drilling out the red plastic holders and then adding your own screws.
Drill out the red stoppers a bit, clean it out with a screw driver then use his technique to gently take it out. Drill a hole and install a screw to replace the red stopper you drilled out. Done.
So whst is the purpose of removing the rail in thr first place? Lmfao