Hey man. Thanks for making this video. I have had my logitech G700 for at least 7 years now and the switches started dying on me. Looked online and saw people were charging 300% more than what I actually bought the mouse for. Instead, I was able to use my soldering skills from my schooling/job to fix everything right up by following what you did. You are my hero.
Excellent guide. I fixed my G700 with this video. Even though the left button had the double click issue, I replaced both switches. The hardest part is desoldering the top board. Take your time, and like the author suggest, add some solder before using the wick or sucker. It seems counter intuitive to add solder when you're trying to remove it. Thanks EcProjects.
we can just replace the spring. no soldering needed. 1. buy a matching switch. you should be able to see that it's latched on the sides. 2. use box cutter to unlatch it and open it. you will find the bronze rounded square thingy inside. use this opportunity to see and learn the mechanism of the switch. this will come in handy later 3. open the old switch (which still soldered to the board) using same method 4. swap the springs. if you learn the mechanism of the switch, you will know how to install the spring inside the switch. 5. close the switch and reassemble the mouse double click are caused by weak springs. (if you learn how the mechanism is, you will understand). usually we just replace the whole switch. sadly in G700's case, it's easier to just replace the spring since replacing the whole switch requires some extra steps.
I just finished this repair, and then found this video. Very good instructions! If I'd have to add something: - Much or most of the work and repair cost goes to disassembly (and new skate pads), so I'd recommend replacing both switches while you're at it, or at least check with a multimeter that the other switch is OK. Mine was not, even if I had never noticed any problem with it. - Also good opportunity to clean the mouse. - A basic multimeter with the analog-style continuity beep is good for testing the switch. - Also good idea to test the new switch to rule out a DOA part. - The fresh solder + solder sucker method worked well for me. - Since there is some online guide where some mallet has managed to break the PCB: A light touch to a desoldered pin shows if it's free. If not, do not try to remove the board. - Be careful with the two springs. Half of the repair time easily goes to finding the springs that, after a light touch, seemed to teleport to another dimension. - The switches were actually the (10M) version, but no big deal. Mine was a 2013 model, and the switches lasted exactly as long as the skate pads luckily. G700 is a great mouse overall, especially for desktop work, while not the best for fast-paced gaming. Logitech, if you are reading this to research ways for planned obsolescence: Please don't do it, and design mouses like G700, keeping in mind: - Do not use the rubber-like coating, because it becomes sticky after some years. (For my G700 it isn't a problem yet though.) - Do not put the screws under the skate pads. - Make it possible to replace the omron switches without desoldering PCBs apart. - Make sure there are no showstopper software bugs (as there was with G700 forgetting the settings). Support Linux. - Offer spare parts. - More buttons is better. There's a hundred on a keyboard for two hands, so why only 5 or 10 for the mouse? - The shape of the G700 buttons is great. Usability > looks. - Removable battery (and wireless+USB combo for communication) is good for a desktop+gaming mouse, even though a tricky choice for a hardcore gaming mouse. If these are fulfilled, I'm happy to pay 3x the price of a cheap mouse, when I know it will last 3 times longer with some maintenance, and be 3 times nicer to use.
@@archevii They're talking about the contact cleaner spray "Deoxit". Though in these cases, it's not an issue of good contact, Omron unfortunately doesn't make long lasting switches. Look up all the issues with the Logitech G Pro wireless switch issues, they still use Omron and the switches are still extremely problematic.
@@xboxGTbenton1234 what's a good replacement switch...? mine lasted 10 years (mine was made on a wednesday I am assuming) (Mon = hung over... Fri = getting ready to party)
You might want to replace the whole upper board assembly with a new one from EBAY. All switches will be new. On top of that the new boards will have a 14 pin socket in place of solder pads. No need to resolder the new board in place. No unsoldering will be need in the future. The new boards I recieved have what looked like it has better quality switches as a plus. I have a supply of 60 million click switches on hand for the future. Only 3 solder connections now instead of 17. After all these years Deoxit will not undo physical wear caused by a trillion+ clicks.
The switch is *not* the problem. The problem is the "hammer" striking the switch from above. There is a small plastic nose on the hammer, which I removed at the base until the surface was flat. Then I broke off a single blade from a small cutter knife (grinded it into a square shape) and glued it on the flat surface with super glue. The problem is gone. Now I have a hardened steel striking the switch, which will probably last a million years. I also tuned the (rubbery and unresponsive) middle mouse button by bending the small sheet (seen @ 3:12, next to the two springs) to 90°, making the middle click much more crisp.
Buying dozen or two D2FC-F-7N -switches is a great investment. They are compatible with most switches used in regular sized mouses and are quieter than some switches in cheap mouses... So changing the switches can in some cases be a good idea even if they are working OK.
Just wanted to say that often you don't have to change the switches. Normally it is just the contact surfaces inside the switch that have become a little oxidized and don't make perfect contact anymore. I think this can happen regardless of switch quality. If you carefully open up the switch (try not to disassemble the inner workings by mistake, it can be a pain to put back together again even though there are just two parts) you can slip a very slim piece of superfine sand paper between the contact points and give them a tiny little rub. Finish off with some electronics cleaner spray if you have. Put everything back together again and very probably your mouse will be working just fine for another couple of years.
Dude, you really are AWESOME ! I fully dis/re-assembled and fixed my mouse, thanks to you. I was then blocked with desoldering components (I'm really good at soldering, but was not at desoldering), and your small tutorial about desoldering was really interesting ! I succeeded the operation, and 1h later, I was going to desolder (successfully) a Playstation 3 component, thanks to you again. Thanks so much for your help, you made my G700 looks like new after 6 years of use!
great stuff! You just saved a ton of money. for some reason here in 2021, this mouse has been discontinued but is still being sold by logitech? weird stuff, but it's price has gone up by 300%. you, sir. are a good man. thank you
I miss the old G700. Only issue I had with those was the charging ports going "bad". Didn't know I could just clean them with a sewing needle. The G604 (my current mouse--RIP) is a next-level nightmare to disassemble. I will never try and do it myself again. I ordered Huano White Dots, but alas I am stuck with a thousand parts and screws.
I had exactly the same problem on my G500. But I didn't feel like desoldering that connector, so I just opened the microswitch and bend the spring a bit more. Has been working fine ever since. If (Or should I say when?) it breaks again I will probably replace the switches. Also I would suggest to replace both buttons while you already have the mouse apart.
I spent 2 hours to replace the spring in place. Very difficult! There are small recesses invisible to the naked eye in which the spring is engaged. I'd rather change the key. Thank you very much!
Dexoit G5 works wonders on these switches. No need to replaces these switches. Just spray Deoxit on the end of a Q tip and work the microswitch plunger with the wet Q tip. As soon as you see the Deoxit leak out of the bottom of the switch reverse the Q tip to the dry end and work the switch a few dozen times to let the Deoxit burnish the contacts. Let dry. Might just as well do the other switch too. Going two+ years now on a new replacement G700 I got under warranty. The replacement started acting up after 90 days. Now I have 2 good mice.
THANK YOU SO MUCH, taking time movie-making and sharing this. Worked for me es well. Only: to open the connector at 2:02 I had to open the "nose-clip-connection" by the side with a small screwdriver to make it possible to disconnect..
I was not able to disconnect it at all. I noticed it even pulled out the white socket out of the print board a bit so I stopped. I then decided to unscrew the print on the other end and exchange only the keys G4-G7 since there was one key broken.
I've been trying to find a replacement to my G700s that just busted. It's not going so well. There isn't another mouse i've found yet that puts my wrist into quite the same position. Everything else seems to make my wrist hurt like fire and needles so I'm excited to try to repair it. Thank you for the help!
thanks after 4 years of not using this mouse, i finally take the time to fix it first time using WICK.. it took me like 20 min figure it out not be afraid and use it fast. :)
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I bought replacement Omrons, but could not figure out how to get the upper board removed - would have never thought that one has to desolder the DIL connector 🤦♀️🤦♀️ This is really bad design and "Planned obsolescence", especially with the used 10M Omrons! (I replaced with 50M btw, price diff is neglectable compared to the replacement effort.) Thank you! 👍👍💖
It's been awhile since I soldered something. It took me ages to remove the top pcb. Thanks for the clear instructions! My favorite Mouse works perfectly again.
Unfortunately this was the most annoying repair I've ever tried. My god. I couldn't desolder that fucking white strip without ruining it. My wick and solder sucker couldn't remove all the solder needed to lift the board. So I had to get aggressive, and my aggresiveness really damaged that thing. I lost almost all of the little silver rings you see in the video. I still put the board back together after changing the switches, but re-soldering the white strip was also a pain in the ass. I couldn't get the damn solder to stick to the board. It would either stick to the iron, or stick to the pins and not touch the board. I used flux and everything. Still, I did what I could and tried the mouse out. And hey.. the cursor moves... but none of the buttons register! YAY .... lol Man... I loved this mouse when it worked :(
THANK YOU so much for this video! I have 1x G700 and 2 G700s that were 4+ years old and needed new switches. I hated to replace the mice and this allowed me to fix them and keep on using them, hopefully for 4 more years.
really worth the watch, i seem to realize how much i spend logitech wont improve thier switches they are more focused on design, better we take the fixing :P
I've looked at a lot of different mice since my G700 started failing last year. Most recently I've been using the G602. I kind of hate it though. The shape is different and rather uncomfortable. The buttons flanking the left click are flat and almost flush with the click key itself which makes them pretty useless. Even after 9 months of use I can't properly distinguish between the 2 buttons with my finger and about half the time I try to use one of them I end up pressing the left click at the same time or pressing it instead of the flank button. The 602 doesn't have the hyperscroll function either or the custom button you can use to change profiles under the hyperscroll toggle. They added the hyperscroll back to the new 604, but other than that it looks exactly the same minus new internals. I gave up and shelled out $200 USD for one of the few new G700's left on amazon. Can't understand why Logitech discontinued this mouse and replaced it with the 600 series mice.
Decided to see if I can salvage this mouse which I have replaced for a couple years ago. It had the faulty double click issue. Question: When removing the solder at the 6:00 mark, what happens if the little circular solder pad discs are moved too? How do you repair it?
Hmm, you would have to follow the traces and find a component where you can solder a thin wire, then bring it back to the pin. you can also scrape off the solder mask over the trace and solder the wire there - That probably requires a microscope though, since you don't want to hit the ground plane at the same time :)
I had this mouse under my bed nearly for 5 years. I had put it there when it started having doubleclick issue. Mine pads are also nearly all gone while removing soldier. Must have happened because the iron was too hot or i didn't use the wick in the start. But the interesting thing is the omikron switches tested ok outside the mouse, so the most possible problem I had, should be just bad soldier on pins. Too bad it had gone bad in 3rd year of use, shame on logitech for not using a socket to connect the boards, shame on me for still not being able to protect the small board pads while soldiering.
hey man great tutorial! i followed the steps and saved my G700. for the switches i used from those chinese cheap black and white ones. it had a long metal lever to push the button but i just removed it by pulling it. apart from needing abit more force to push the button it turned out ok. saved me from buying a mouse its a great satisfaction :) thanks
Just did this on 2 mice. The header bank was super easy to desolder if you hit it with a bunch of flux and some leaded solder. It wicks right up. good luck!
Thanks for the tutorial! The left button works fine now! But unfortunatly I failed the first desoldering and not every metal ring around the holes has survived... Result is: The wheel and the buttons G8 to G11 wont work. Is there any way to fix the missing rings on the plate?
Thanks for the video, was about to rip the board off thinking the jumper was just mounted onto the bottom connector. Lucky that I watch this video before proceeding any further...
Thank you, this worked perfectly. I have replaced the switches with japanese D2F-01F which should hopefully last longer than the cheapo chinese switches that are normally used.
Thanks alot for the Video. I am now looking for new switches and repair my mouse in the same way. I tried the new G502, but prefer my old, so i will do my best.
Hi, Im having problems with desoldering the switch...Im not able to suck out all the old solder with the solder sucker and my 30W soldering iron isnt hot enough to make the wick work neither. I tried putting some fresh solder on the joints and suck it out, but with no success. Do you have any tips how to get this done? Thanks.
I own Logitech MX Performance mouse and had the same problem, under 2 years of work. Logitech needs to use better switch technology the web is plagued with people with problems like this, I own a Microsoft mouse its 5 years old and dont suffer from this problem. again this is a component source problem those omron switches are poor design or fake or both. Another point some people actually restore the tension of the spring without removing the switch, but its annoying to get the spring in place.
In my experience, the silicone band on the scroll wheels of the Microsoft mice stretch and fail after about a year of use. I've also had a switch failure on one.
I use a $6 "gaming mouse" from ebay. Definitely not perfect but I do prefer it to my old overpriced razer. Anything goes wrong and it's just $6 to replace.
Glad I stuck with my over 15 year old intellimouse explorer from Microsoft then. I think I exchanged a switch once and shortened the cable twice (broken conductors), but other than that still going fine (for work and sometimes excessive gaming).
You are quite lucky your mouse has lasted so long. For most gamers, a mouse (gaming or otherwise) will normally last about a year before the microswitch fails. The biggest factor is how often you click it. Gamers are almost always clicking. It is NOT build quality. What would be nice for the higher priced mice would be to have the microswitches plugged into sockets. This would allow the owner to quickly and easily replace the microswitches when they begin failing. I would certainly not mind paying an extra 30-40 dollars for a mouse that was not expected to be a throwaway product. This video was quite good and my only problem is my soldering skills. I tend to burn things.
Good tutorial, but I made it much easier, not very keen on soldering, gently open both buttons with an x acto, and replace the damaged metal part with the new one from the new button, close it again, problem solved, took me 10 minutes, did it twice about 2 years ago still going strong. Now I'm looking for button reference of the left and right scroll buttons do you happen to know it ? got one failing Thank you.
What do you use/do when the switch won’t come out due to the factory solder? Tried adding solder to joint & desoldering but it wont come off, have yet to try using flux to desolder though
Try with flux and a braid first. If that doesn't work what I do is get some needle nose pliers (it'll get hot enough you really don't wanna touch it) and slowly jimmy it loose rotating across all 3 pads one at a time. Heat, work lose a little, move on to the next. Repeat until free, it does take a little time and effort. If you have high heat and move quickly you wont damage the pcb and the joints should stay relatively pliable. Clean out holes once loose as there will be leftover solder. Alternatively, if you don't mind being destructive, snip the plastic casing to expose the pins (need some sturdy snips) and remove plastic till its just the pins remaining stuck to the board. Heat up solder and remove with pliers one at a time.
So I posted my first comment 3 years ago, the replacement switches are even more awful than the original ones. I replaced it then, I replaced it against last year and I have to replace it again lol. It sucks that this is such an amazing mouse that now I'll probably be replacing these switches every years for the rest of my life (or until something much worse fails).
Hi there, thanks for this video. it's very handy to repair the mouse.I need though to replace left and right switches of the central wheel. Do you have any idea where I can get these spare parts. LMK THX
All mice suffer from the failed switch issue, so all will need it done at some time. I have often used another switch as a temporary fix, especially with some MS mice that have a high switch, just mount the switch high up on the leads to operate. Did not know you could get the pads though, all of mine are worn off, and some are nearly through the case as well. But then, 10 years plus on a wired mouse is way beyond design life.
After I replaced the buttons my scroll wheel did not work properly. It eaither skipped when scolling or did nothing. When I put the board back in it did not have the perfect level. It was maybe 0.3 mm too high. So when you push the "free Wheel button" there is a button underneath which gets pushed in too much. After I corrected the hights of the board the scroll wheel worked perfectly again. Thank you for the video.
Which is the second tool you are using there to break a little bit the previous solder mask? I have just only a solder iron (don't really know how North americans call it) so I have had a hard time trying to remove the original soldier mask. Would appreciate any info, thanks!
Does logitech G102 also use same switch. I saw those also has pin connection but I need to know is there any size difference to switches? Before I order these online.
Thanks for that. Very handy. I'll be doing the same soon as the mouse is becoming unusable. Quick question, what temperature do you set your soldering to for this sort of work?
Don't have the double click issue, but rather scrolling with the wheel seems to stutter. For example, when scrolling down it might scroll up a tiny bit and then down again. What switch/sensor keeps track of the mouse wheel assembly movement?
I have a Microsoft mouse from the time when they still made good hardware, that I revived like that once. It's an intellimouse explorer mouse (v1 that still support PS/2, but at that time they didn't even print version numbers on it ;) ), that has to be 15 years old, if not more (Amazon has reviews from *1999* for that thing!). I've use it 10+ hours almost every day (work related), but it has also been to LAN parties quite often in the beginning, where it survived Diablo clickorgies among others, and is still used for games alot. I also had to shorten the lead twice (once near the plug and once near the mouse, because the wire broke) and I think I only exchanged the left mouse button switch once (for a used switch from another Microsoft mouse of the time). Other than that nothing broke, wheel is still fine, other buttons as well. Can't get anything like that anymore. Damn, I'd really like to know how many clicks that mouse had. It has to be in the tens of millions, considering that a single Diablo session could easily get you to thousands of clicks.
Mouse Button Part Number: Omron D2FC-F-7N . They can be rated for 10 (10M) or 20 (20M) million clicks. If they are not marked, the gray coloured button/top is rated for 10M and the white coloured top is rated for 20M.
Guys do yourself a huge favor and do NOT DESOLDER ANYTHING. Just order some replacement switches (or bare springs) and pop the switches open, study how the the innards are laid out (take a pic) and transplant the new contact spring onto the old switch (clean/scrape the old contacts). I killed one G700 by desoldering till it occurred to me I could just replace the faulty spring, the 2nd G700 is doing great.
you either learn to soder and fix stuff with it or you stay with more basic repairs. Nothing wrong with it if its not for you but for me personally its fun.
Fixed my old mouse couple years ago same problem, that involuntary double clicking can get you into a lot of trouble I once clicked a BUY NOW button on Ebay because mine went all spongy and got stuck in the down position, the Ebay seller was quite understanding about my runaway mouse:p think that was before they put the confirmation thing in place, tip never blast the switches with lighter fuel, when running out of isoprople alchohol haha NOT wise, Mouse was much happier after I got the new switch
I love my g700 but until yesterday my middle scroll wheel button stopped 'clicking'. I opened the mouse up and realized that the little gold circle thing that the wheel is supposed to press to register a click is stuck all the way in:( i mean the bulge is downwards so the curvature is not upwards.. any way to fix that? Do i have replace the whole board or just the gold thingie? Any place to order that part? Please help...
My mouse whell is not clicking anymore, i can apply pressure and it works, but no more clickness. It bugs that sometimes it remais stuck on the pressed position? Do you think the problem is the scroll whell switch?
Well done video. I like where you sped it up through the parts that we don't need detail. The day I took my mouse apart (I first tried using canned air on the switches) I didn't want to wait for new pads. So, I used the video to locate the screws under the pads. Then, I used an X-acto knife to cut a hole for the screwdriver to fit through. That way, I can keep the feet I have. I don't notice them when moving the mouse. In three cases, it also captures the screw, making it easier to keep track, and to screw them back in. As you said, the feet are cheap. I ordered a set. But, I don't notice any issues with the holes I cut. I'm living with it right now. I just replaced my switches. Both were failing. I found that getting the solder back on was as difficult as getting it off. Especially on the connector pins. Those are small, and it was difficult to keep the solder from spreading to the pin next to it. I have a setup where I have lights and a magnifying glass on goosenecks, so I can position them exactly where I need. I don't know that I could have done it without those. I think I got it. My first quick test was successful.
PSA Work Deoxit G5 into the left and right mouse buttons with a Q tip to fix the double clicking problem. 5 years after treatment and working like new.
I followed every step in this video, made the solder and tested the clicking of the micro switch which works well. Once I put on the cover and start pressing , the left button does not register a click at all. Not sure what is the issue though
I did this but now all buttons stopped working. It’s not as easy as it looks. Pointer moves but none of the 11 buttons work. Anyone has any idea what could have gone wrong?
Thank you for your repair manual! G700 is a great mouse, second to none actually. G700s has the same body, but the ugly "tattoos" make it unusable for me.
Ebay/Aliexpress/Amazon etc. I'm recommended Cherry DG2 (black stem, P/N DG2 T85) switches. Better than Omron. More expensive, but much more reliable. Mechanically and electrically compatible.
I have a roll of the wick you used in this video, and I have to say, I hate it. Try some Techspray Pro Wick--I was blown away by the difference. It's a bit pricey; but definitely worth the saved time and effort. The #2 or #3 are good for general use.
Seems to be that Logitech has made some bad component choices for their HIDs, I have an M570 which had the same issue, think I ended up replacing both switches. Thankfully the switches are a bit easier to get to compared to these.
Nice repair, and beats buying a new one! You know I like seeing old kit ressurected. Couldn't see the big rubber ball inside though.....you must have removed it first eh!.....:-)
Holy shit. I was just searching to see how to disassemble this thing to clean and did not know how common this double click issue is. Mine does the same thing and I ended up buying a G502.
Hey man. Thanks for making this video. I have had my logitech G700 for at least 7 years now and the switches started dying on me. Looked online and saw people were charging 300% more than what I actually bought the mouse for. Instead, I was able to use my soldering skills from my schooling/job to fix everything right up by following what you did.
You are my hero.
Excellent guide. I fixed my G700 with this video. Even though the left button had the double click issue, I replaced both switches. The hardest part is desoldering the top board. Take your time, and like the author suggest, add some solder before using the wick or sucker. It seems counter intuitive to add solder when you're trying to remove it. Thanks EcProjects.
we can just replace the spring. no soldering needed.
1. buy a matching switch. you should be able to see that it's latched on the sides.
2. use box cutter to unlatch it and open it. you will find the bronze rounded square thingy inside. use this opportunity to see and learn the mechanism of the switch. this will come in handy later
3. open the old switch (which still soldered to the board) using same method
4. swap the springs. if you learn the mechanism of the switch, you will know how to install the spring inside the switch.
5. close the switch and reassemble the mouse
double click are caused by weak springs. (if you learn how the mechanism is, you will understand). usually we just replace the whole switch. sadly in G700's case, it's easier to just replace the spring since replacing the whole switch requires some extra steps.
I tried it and no chance, almost impossiblle to install them correctly
I just finished this repair, and then found this video. Very good instructions!
If I'd have to add something:
- Much or most of the work and repair cost goes to disassembly (and new skate pads), so I'd recommend replacing both switches while you're at it, or at least check with a multimeter that the other switch is OK. Mine was not, even if I had never noticed any problem with it.
- Also good opportunity to clean the mouse.
- A basic multimeter with the analog-style continuity beep is good for testing the switch.
- Also good idea to test the new switch to rule out a DOA part.
- The fresh solder + solder sucker method worked well for me.
- Since there is some online guide where some mallet has managed to break the PCB: A light touch to a desoldered pin shows if it's free. If not, do not try to remove the board.
- Be careful with the two springs. Half of the repair time easily goes to finding the springs that, after a light touch, seemed to teleport to another dimension.
- The switches were actually the (10M) version, but no big deal.
Mine was a 2013 model, and the switches lasted exactly as long as the skate pads luckily.
G700 is a great mouse overall, especially for desktop work, while not the best for fast-paced gaming.
Logitech, if you are reading this to research ways for planned obsolescence: Please don't do it, and design mouses like G700, keeping in mind:
- Do not use the rubber-like coating, because it becomes sticky after some years. (For my G700 it isn't a problem yet though.)
- Do not put the screws under the skate pads.
- Make it possible to replace the omron switches without desoldering PCBs apart.
- Make sure there are no showstopper software bugs (as there was with G700 forgetting the settings). Support Linux.
- Offer spare parts.
- More buttons is better. There's a hundred on a keyboard for two hands, so why only 5 or 10 for the mouse?
- The shape of the G700 buttons is great. Usability > looks.
- Removable battery (and wireless+USB combo for communication) is good for a desktop+gaming mouse, even though a tricky choice for a hardcore gaming mouse.
If these are fulfilled, I'm happy to pay 3x the price of a cheap mouse, when I know it will last 3 times longer with some maintenance, and be 3 times nicer to use.
I replaced the whole board assembly with new board with 14 pin socket. No more need to resolder the 14 pins.
Honestly, if you're going in to change left click switch you might as well change the right click witch as well.
Use Deoxit instead. Believe me, it works.
@@KurentEweser Whats a deoxit?
@@archevii They're talking about the contact cleaner spray "Deoxit". Though in these cases, it's not an issue of good contact, Omron unfortunately doesn't make long lasting switches. Look up all the issues with the Logitech G Pro wireless switch issues, they still use Omron and the switches are still extremely problematic.
@@archevii th-cam.com/video/CJBN98vYtCU/w-d-xo.html
@@xboxGTbenton1234 what's a good replacement switch...? mine lasted 10 years (mine was made on a wednesday I am assuming) (Mon = hung over... Fri = getting ready to party)
You might want to replace the whole upper board assembly with a new one from EBAY. All switches will be new. On top of that the new boards will have a 14 pin socket in place of solder pads. No need to resolder the new board in place. No unsoldering will be need in the future. The new boards I recieved have what looked like it has better quality switches as a plus. I have a supply of 60 million click switches on hand for the future. Only 3 solder connections now instead of 17. After all these years Deoxit will not undo physical wear caused by a trillion+ clicks.
Thank you for the tutorial!
I just changed the switches, the screws and the pads of my G700.
Cheers from France.
The switch is *not* the problem. The problem is the "hammer" striking the switch from above. There is a small plastic nose on the hammer, which I removed at the base until the surface was flat. Then I broke off a single blade from a small cutter knife (grinded it into a square shape) and glued it on the flat surface with super glue. The problem is gone. Now I have a hardened steel striking the switch, which will probably last a million years. I also tuned the (rubbery and unresponsive) middle mouse button by bending the small sheet (seen @ 3:12, next to the two springs) to 90°, making the middle click much more crisp.
Buying dozen or two D2FC-F-7N -switches is a great investment. They are compatible with most switches used in regular sized mouses and are quieter than some switches in cheap mouses... So changing the switches can in some cases be a good idea even if they are working OK.
Yes, but I would invest directly in the variant with 50 million clicks (50M)...
@@maxlpower4985 or get kailh gm switches
Just wanted to say that often you don't have to change the switches. Normally it is just the contact surfaces inside the switch that have become a little oxidized and don't make perfect contact anymore. I think this can happen regardless of switch quality. If you carefully open up the switch (try not to disassemble the inner workings by mistake, it can be a pain to put back together again even though there are just two parts) you can slip a very slim piece of superfine sand paper between the contact points and give them a tiny little rub. Finish off with some electronics cleaner spray if you have. Put everything back together again and very probably your mouse will be working just fine for another couple of years.
Dude, you really are AWESOME ! I fully dis/re-assembled and fixed my mouse, thanks to you. I was then blocked with desoldering components (I'm really good at soldering, but was not at desoldering), and your small tutorial about desoldering was really interesting ! I succeeded the operation, and 1h later, I was going to desolder (successfully) a Playstation 3 component, thanks to you again. Thanks so much for your help, you made my G700 looks like new after 6 years of use!
Ahh you're video was so soothing and just what I needed as Im having to do the exact same thing with my 2014 naga.
bro are you gay?
great stuff! You just saved a ton of money. for some reason here in 2021, this mouse has been discontinued but is still being sold by logitech? weird stuff, but it's price has gone up by 300%. you, sir. are a good man. thank you
I miss the old G700. Only issue I had with those was the charging ports going "bad". Didn't know I could just clean them with a sewing needle. The G604 (my current mouse--RIP) is a next-level nightmare to disassemble. I will never try and do it myself again. I ordered Huano White Dots, but alas I am stuck with a thousand parts and screws.
I had exactly the same problem on my G500. But I didn't feel like desoldering that connector, so I just opened the microswitch and bend the spring a bit more. Has been working fine ever since. If (Or should I say when?) it breaks again I will probably replace the switches.
Also I would suggest to replace both buttons while you already have the mouse apart.
I spent 2 hours to replace the spring in place. Very difficult! There are small recesses invisible to the naked eye in which the spring is engaged. I'd rather change the key. Thank you very much!
Did that 3 times with my G700. Trust me, you'll start having to do it more frequently. Now I'm buying the tools in this video to replace the switch.
Dexoit G5 works wonders on these switches. No need to replaces these switches. Just spray Deoxit on the end of a Q tip and work the microswitch plunger with the wet Q tip. As soon as you see the Deoxit leak out of the bottom of the switch reverse the Q tip to the dry end and work the switch a few dozen times to let the Deoxit burnish the contacts. Let dry. Might just as well do the other switch too. Going two+ years now on a new replacement G700 I got under warranty. The replacement started acting up after 90 days. Now I have 2 good mice.
THANK YOU SO MUCH, taking time movie-making and sharing this.
Worked for me es well.
Only: to open the connector at 2:02 I had to open the "nose-clip-connection" by the side with a small screwdriver to make it possible to disconnect..
I was not able to disconnect it at all. I noticed it even pulled out the white socket out of the print board a bit so I stopped. I then decided to unscrew the print on the other end and exchange only the keys G4-G7 since there was one key broken.
I've been trying to find a replacement to my G700s that just busted. It's not going so well. There isn't another mouse i've found yet that puts my wrist into quite the same position. Everything else seems to make my wrist hurt like fire and needles so I'm excited to try to repair it. Thank you for the help!
thanks
after 4 years of not using this mouse, i finally take the time to fix it
first time using WICK.. it took me like 20 min figure it out not be afraid and use it fast.
:)
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
I bought replacement Omrons, but could not figure out how to get the upper board removed - would have never thought that one has to desolder the DIL connector 🤦♀️🤦♀️
This is really bad design and "Planned obsolescence", especially with the used 10M Omrons!
(I replaced with 50M btw, price diff is neglectable compared to the replacement effort.)
Thank you! 👍👍💖
Thank you so much. Just fixed my G700 using your video. Works like a charm!
It's been awhile since I soldered something. It took me ages to remove the top pcb. Thanks for the clear instructions! My favorite Mouse works perfectly again.
The new switch will eventually go bad. Use Deoxit instead.
Unfortunately this was the most annoying repair I've ever tried. My god. I couldn't desolder that fucking white strip without ruining it. My wick and solder sucker couldn't remove all the solder needed to lift the board. So I had to get aggressive, and my aggresiveness really damaged that thing. I lost almost all of the little silver rings you see in the video. I still put the board back together after changing the switches, but re-soldering the white strip was also a pain in the ass. I couldn't get the damn solder to stick to the board. It would either stick to the iron, or stick to the pins and not touch the board. I used flux and everything.
Still, I did what I could and tried the mouse out. And hey.. the cursor moves... but none of the buttons register! YAY .... lol
Man... I loved this mouse when it worked :(
I had the exact same problem. The left and right clicks may still work, but G8 to G11 are dead... Desoldering is harder than it looks.
THANK YOU so much for this video! I have 1x G700 and 2 G700s that were 4+ years old and needed new switches. I hated to replace the mice and this allowed me to fix them and keep on using them, hopefully for 4 more years.
At first I tried taking the switch on my G700 apart and flexing the spring. That worked for only a short time so this is next. Great Video
I had spent like 3 hours taking mouse and switch apart, cleaning it, only to break the tiny clicker spring when trying to flex it. RIP
Replacing the springs is easier. just buy the switch, and swap springs.
really worth the watch, i seem to realize how much i spend logitech wont improve thier switches they are more focused on design, better we take the fixing :P
I love my mouse, but they dont produce it anymore. i need to finde something as good as this one or i have to simply fix it.
thanks for that.
I've looked at a lot of different mice since my G700 started failing last year.
Most recently I've been using the G602. I kind of hate it though. The shape is different and rather uncomfortable. The buttons flanking the left click are flat and almost flush with the click key itself which makes them pretty useless. Even after 9 months of use I can't properly distinguish between the 2 buttons with my finger and about half the time I try to use one of them I end up pressing the left click at the same time or pressing it instead of the flank button.
The 602 doesn't have the hyperscroll function either or the custom button you can use to change profiles under the hyperscroll toggle.
They added the hyperscroll back to the new 604, but other than that it looks exactly the same minus new internals.
I gave up and shelled out $200 USD for one of the few new G700's left on amazon.
Can't understand why Logitech discontinued this mouse and replaced it with the 600 series mice.
Decided to see if I can salvage this mouse which I have replaced for a couple years ago. It had the faulty double click issue.
Question: When removing the solder at the 6:00 mark, what happens if the little circular solder pad discs are moved too? How do you repair it?
Hmm, you would have to follow the traces and find a component where you can solder a thin wire, then bring it back to the pin. you can also scrape off the solder mask over the trace and solder the wire there - That probably requires a microscope though, since you don't want to hit the ground plane at the same time :)
I had this mouse under my bed nearly for 5 years. I had put it there when it started having doubleclick issue. Mine pads are also nearly all gone while removing soldier. Must have happened because the iron was too hot or i didn't use the wick in the start. But the interesting thing is the omikron switches tested ok outside the mouse, so the most possible problem I had, should be just bad soldier on pins. Too bad it had gone bad in 3rd year of use, shame on logitech for not using a socket to connect the boards, shame on me for still not being able to protect the small board pads while soldiering.
hey man great tutorial! i followed the steps and saved my G700. for the switches i used from those chinese cheap black and white ones. it had a long metal lever to push the button but i just removed it by pulling it. apart from needing abit more force to push the button it turned out ok. saved me from buying a mouse its a great satisfaction :) thanks
Thanks for your video, my g700s works now without double clicks 👌
Just did this on 2 mice. The header bank was super easy to desolder if you hit it with a bunch of flux and some leaded solder. It wicks right up. good luck!
That's one prime example of some great planned obsolescence by Logitech ... what a bunch of bastards.
I was 10 seconds in, going yes, this is exactly my problem. Thank you so much for making this vid.
Thanks a lot for the video! After 7 years still very helpful
Thanks for the tutorial! The left button works fine now!
But unfortunatly I failed the first desoldering and not every metal ring around the holes has survived... Result is: The wheel and the buttons G8 to G11 wont work.
Is there any way to fix the missing rings on the plate?
Thanks for the video, was about to rip the board off thinking the jumper was just mounted onto the bottom connector. Lucky that I watch this video before proceeding any further...
Thank you, this worked perfectly. I have replaced the switches with japanese D2F-01F which should hopefully last longer than the cheapo chinese switches that are normally used.
helpful video ordered six switches and fixed in no time. well worth repairing as i love the ergonomics of this mouse.
I have a request, can you give us the name of the SW 12 microswitch
Thanks alot for the Video. I am now looking for new switches and repair my mouse in the same way. I tried the new G502, but prefer my old, so i will do my best.
Hi, Im having problems with desoldering the switch...Im not able to suck out all the old solder with the solder sucker and my 30W soldering iron isnt hot enough to make the wick work neither. I tried putting some fresh solder on the joints and suck it out, but with no success. Do you have any tips how to get this done? Thanks.
I own Logitech MX Performance mouse and had the same problem, under 2 years of work. Logitech needs to use better switch technology the web is plagued with people with problems like this, I own a Microsoft mouse its 5 years old and dont suffer from this problem. again this is a component source problem those omron switches are poor design or fake or both.
Another point some people actually restore the tension of the spring without removing the switch, but its annoying to get the spring in place.
In my experience, the silicone band on the scroll wheels of the Microsoft mice stretch and fail after about a year of use. I've also had a switch failure on one.
true about the silicon band, I had this happen to me as well.
I use a $6 "gaming mouse" from ebay. Definitely not perfect but I do prefer it to my old overpriced razer. Anything goes wrong and it's just $6 to replace.
Glad I stuck with my over 15 year old intellimouse explorer from Microsoft then. I think I exchanged a switch once and shortened the cable twice (broken conductors), but other than that still going fine (for work and sometimes excessive gaming).
You are quite lucky your mouse has lasted so long. For most gamers, a mouse (gaming or otherwise) will normally last about a year before the microswitch fails. The biggest factor is how often you click it. Gamers are almost always clicking.
It is NOT build quality.
What would be nice for the higher priced mice would be to have the microswitches plugged into sockets. This would allow the owner to quickly and easily replace the microswitches when they begin failing. I would certainly not mind paying an extra 30-40 dollars for a mouse that was not expected to be a throwaway product.
This video was quite good and my only problem is my soldering skills. I tend to burn things.
Good tutorial, but I made it much easier, not very keen on soldering, gently open both buttons with an x acto, and replace the damaged metal part with the new one from the new button, close it again, problem solved, took me 10 minutes, did it twice about 2 years ago still going strong.
Now I'm looking for button reference of the left and right scroll buttons do you happen to know it ? got one failing
Thank you.
What do you use/do when the switch won’t come out due to the factory solder?
Tried adding solder to joint & desoldering but it wont come off, have yet to try using flux to desolder though
Try with flux and a braid first. If that doesn't work what I do is get some needle nose pliers (it'll get hot enough you really don't wanna touch it) and slowly jimmy it loose rotating across all 3 pads one at a time. Heat, work lose a little, move on to the next. Repeat until free, it does take a little time and effort. If you have high heat and move quickly you wont damage the pcb and the joints should stay relatively pliable. Clean out holes once loose as there will be leftover solder. Alternatively, if you don't mind being destructive, snip the plastic casing to expose the pins (need some sturdy snips) and remove plastic till its just the pins remaining stuck to the board. Heat up solder and remove with pliers one at a time.
is it easy to repair the index buttons?
So I posted my first comment 3 years ago, the replacement switches are even more awful than the original ones. I replaced it then, I replaced it against last year and I have to replace it again lol. It sucks that this is such an amazing mouse that now I'll probably be replacing these switches every years for the rest of my life (or until something much worse fails).
Hi there, thanks for this video. it's very handy to repair the mouse.I need though to replace left and right switches of the central wheel. Do you have any idea where I can get these spare parts. LMK THX
All mice suffer from the failed switch issue, so all will need it done at some time. I have often used another switch as a temporary fix, especially with some MS mice that have a high switch, just mount the switch high up on the leads to operate.
Did not know you could get the pads though, all of mine are worn off, and some are nearly through the case as well. But then, 10 years plus on a wired mouse is way beyond design life.
After I replaced the buttons my scroll wheel did not work properly. It eaither skipped when scolling or did nothing. When I put the board back in it did not have the perfect level. It was maybe 0.3 mm too high. So when you push the "free Wheel button" there is a button underneath which gets pushed in too much. After I corrected the hights of the board the scroll wheel worked perfectly again. Thank you for the video.
Which is the second tool you are using there to break a little bit the previous solder mask? I have just only a solder iron (don't really know how North americans call it) so I have had a hard time trying to remove the original soldier mask. Would appreciate any info, thanks!
Does logitech G102 also use same switch. I saw those also has pin connection but I need to know is there any size difference to switches? Before I order these online.
Thanks for that. Very handy. I'll be doing the same soon as the mouse is becoming unusable. Quick question, what temperature do you set your soldering to for this sort of work?
I'm asking me the same. Do you know it at this point?
Don't have the double click issue, but rather scrolling with the wheel seems to stutter. For example, when scrolling down it might scroll up a tiny bit and then down again. What switch/sensor keeps track of the mouse wheel assembly movement?
what size solder wire you need/used to change a mouse switch?
anything could do, really. But I recommend 0.7mm or less. I usually have both 0.7 and 0.4mm. :)
I have a Microsoft mouse from the time when they still made good hardware, that I revived like that once. It's an intellimouse explorer mouse (v1 that still support PS/2, but at that time they didn't even print version numbers on it ;) ), that has to be 15 years old, if not more (Amazon has reviews from *1999* for that thing!). I've use it 10+ hours almost every day (work related), but it has also been to LAN parties quite often in the beginning, where it survived Diablo clickorgies among others, and is still used for games alot.
I also had to shorten the lead twice (once near the plug and once near the mouse, because the wire broke) and I think I only exchanged the left mouse button switch once (for a used switch from another Microsoft mouse of the time).
Other than that nothing broke, wheel is still fine, other buttons as well. Can't get anything like that anymore.
Damn, I'd really like to know how many clicks that mouse had. It has to be in the tens of millions, considering that a single Diablo session could easily get you to thousands of clicks.
will you please post videos about settings for coreldraw laser for engraving .chineese laser cutter
Hi, where did you get new microswitch? I have same mouse and same problem, but i don't know where to get new microswitch.
ebay, dude
Mouse Button Part Number: Omron D2FC-F-7N . They can be rated for 10 (10M) or 20 (20M) million clicks. If they are not marked, the gray coloured button/top is rated for 10M and the white coloured top is rated for 20M.
Guys do yourself a huge favor and do NOT DESOLDER ANYTHING.
Just order some replacement switches (or bare springs) and pop the switches open, study how the the innards are laid out (take a pic) and transplant the new contact spring onto the old switch (clean/scrape the old contacts).
I killed one G700 by desoldering till it occurred to me I could just replace the faulty spring, the 2nd G700 is doing great.
Desoldering is very simple actually... :facepalm
Hello,
My problem is the scroll wheel tilt switch sometimes doesn't register left tilt.
Do you know where the micro-switch for that is please?
i think these are the tilt switches www3.panasonic.biz/ac/ae/search_num/index.jsp?c=detail&part_no=EVQP0E07K
same problem here, thanks.
I didn't expect that you have to be a surgeon to fix a mouse.
you either learn to soder and fix stuff with it or you stay with more basic repairs. Nothing wrong with it if its not for you but for me personally its fun.
Fixed my old mouse couple years ago same problem, that involuntary double clicking can get you into a lot of trouble I once clicked a BUY NOW button on Ebay because mine went all spongy and got stuck in the down position, the Ebay seller was quite understanding about my runaway mouse:p think that was before they put the confirmation thing in place, tip never blast the switches with lighter fuel, when running out of isoprople alchohol haha NOT wise, Mouse was much happier after I got the new switch
I instead repaired my old switch.. Works like a charm ever since.
Fantastic video .... my Favorite Mouse is Born Again... Thank you so much.!
Awesome! Glad you found it useful :)
Mine too, so happy
I love my g700 but until yesterday my middle scroll wheel button stopped 'clicking'. I opened the mouse up and realized that the little gold circle thing that the wheel is supposed to press to register a click is stuck all the way in:( i mean the bulge is downwards so the curvature is not upwards.. any way to fix that? Do i have replace the whole board or just the gold thingie? Any place to order that part? Please help...
My mouse whell is not clicking anymore, i can apply pressure and it works, but no more clickness. It bugs that sometimes it remais stuck on the pressed position? Do you think the problem is the scroll whell switch?
I put kailh gm 4.0 switches in my deathadder. Going to do the same to two of these g700s I have.
Sweet. Using it now. Working well. Just waiting on more switches and the skates and I'll do my friends. Great mouse.
D2fc-f-7n (10m) It will fit?
Just fixed mine. Big thanks for this vid.
Great mouse. Worth learning how to repair and this video has given my the confidence to do so. Thank you :-)
Well done video. I like where you sped it up through the parts that we don't need detail.
The day I took my mouse apart (I first tried using canned air on the switches) I didn't want to wait for new pads. So, I used the video to locate the screws under the pads. Then, I used an X-acto knife to cut a hole for the screwdriver to fit through. That way, I can keep the feet I have. I don't notice them when moving the mouse. In three cases, it also captures the screw, making it easier to keep track, and to screw them back in.
As you said, the feet are cheap. I ordered a set. But, I don't notice any issues with the holes I cut. I'm living with it right now.
I just replaced my switches. Both were failing. I found that getting the solder back on was as difficult as getting it off. Especially on the connector pins. Those are small, and it was difficult to keep the solder from spreading to the pin next to it. I have a setup where I have lights and a magnifying glass on goosenecks, so I can position them exactly where I need. I don't know that I could have done it without those. I think I got it. My first quick test was successful.
My G700 just over 10 years old. The top 2-nuts at bottom PCB I didn't fasten it, I don't want to desolder the top PCB again.
PSA Work Deoxit G5 into the left and right mouse buttons with a Q tip to fix the double clicking problem. 5 years after treatment and working like new.
I followed every step in this video, made the solder and tested the clicking of the micro switch which works well. Once I put on the cover and start pressing , the left button does not register a click at all. Not sure what is the issue though
Does anyone know if you can swap out a cheapo logitech micro switch into these?
Hi. I have that mouse. I buy it second hand and mid click is not work. How i can repair it cuz i dont see in your video mid click button?
I did this but now all buttons stopped working. It’s not as easy as it looks. Pointer moves but none of the 11 buttons work.
Anyone has any idea what could have gone wrong?
Yes, you damaged the pad of upper left pin or short circuited it.
Thank you for your repair manual! G700 is a great mouse, second to none actually. G700s has the same body, but the ugly "tattoos" make it unusable for me.
Looks matter. The build quality of G700s is not as good as the build quality of G700 by the way.
Hi, where can I buy the parts?
Ebay/Aliexpress/Amazon etc.
I'm recommended Cherry DG2 (black stem, P/N DG2 T85) switches. Better than Omron.
More expensive, but much more reliable. Mechanically and electrically compatible.
I have a roll of the wick you used in this video, and I have to say, I hate it. Try some Techspray Pro Wick--I was blown away by the difference. It's a bit pricey; but definitely worth the saved time and effort. The #2 or #3 are good for general use.
I have to agree actually.. The other roll have is way better.. I'll try the one you mentioned :)
Seems to be that Logitech has made some bad component choices for their HIDs, I have an M570 which had the same issue, think I ended up replacing both switches. Thankfully the switches are a bit easier to get to compared to these.
Nice repair, and beats buying a new one! You know I like seeing old kit ressurected. Couldn't see the big rubber ball inside though.....you must have removed it first eh!.....:-)
I love my g700 had for 6 years but if I get a bad switch I will use this video for my inspiration.
Just repaired my mouse using this guide. THANK YOU SO MUCH MAN ;W; THANK YOU THANK YOU. lost the springs tho
Thank you very much, your tutorials are always very useful!
How did you find everything so cheap??? When I check Amazon, the switches aren't too bad, but the pad replacements are upwards to $40!!
hi i have this mouse but my right click didnt work how can i fix it??
seif said what the hell is this stupid question. The whole video is about the exact question your asking right now. Did you not watch the video?
Just got it for 8$ and it's in good condition only needed some dirt cleaning. But I still like my G600, sadly it's laser died for no reason
Thanks for the help, just finished replacing those clicks :-)
Superb video - very useful ^_^ glad you showed how to fix favorite loved mouse ^_^
You can use soldering paste with unsoldering wire
Worked perfectly for me thank you :-)
Holy shit. I was just searching to see how to disassemble this thing to clean and did not know how common this double click issue is. Mine does the same thing and I ended up buying a G502.
After a change both sides of my clicker they doesn't work again, did do something wrong, pls help :(
did you plug in all wires? did you short circuit something? or shaved any small smd parts?
Good video but please buy a desoldering gun will help alot.
I'd just put a sticker on the bottom of the button clicker and it works for now. I will definitely do this in the future.
Done, i did it and it works!!
Thank you very much!
where can u buy a g0ddamn microswitch?
Thank you, great video overall!