Bless you for this video. I just removed my compound and will be dismantling for cleaning. You saved me alot of time. Thank you for your work and thoughtfulness. TG
Thank you Thomas! Always nice to hear from a fellow lathe enthusiast, what are your plans for it ? And please have a look around my channel , lots of lathe stuff , and tools, and strange stuff to lol
@@Battery-cat Greetings from Iowa. I retired last Aug. After 47 years of machine shop work. I enjoy making things. I missed not having a lathe nearby so I found one and been bring it back into service. Really enjoyed watching you work in the video. TG
Just as well I couldn’t afford that Harrison m300 I wanted then lol ... or this would be a different channel ... I really wanted one at the time , a do like the Colchester though 😊
The 5/16" threaded hole in the nut is there so a 5/16" bolt can be screwed into it to pull the nut out (after removing the screw and loosening the set screw). No other disassembly is required.
@@Battery-cat Work as a Shipwright so it's rudder bearings and the like, boaty stuff. Made a new cross slide leadscrew and nut for the old girl, sold a couple as well. Play with wood & fibreglass during the week and metal at weekends. Love the channel and your "oh well" approach, great stuff keep it coming!
I'm Stubby impressive! What machine did you make the lead screw on ? Nothing wrong with a bit of metal work at the weekend 🙂 I’m the same as you ,i work with wood all week , and metal is way more exciting... sparks ⚡️ and all 😅 thanks for viewing
@@Battery-cat Leadscrew was made on the student to start with, was good but not good enough so bought leadscrew and machined the end, made a jig to hold nuts of centre made lots of taps till i got one that left no backlash in the nut, designed a two part antibacklash nut that can be adjusted in situ. works very well but now have about ten taps that aren't good for anything. Got one leadscrew kit on ebay if you want to have a look. Cheers
daemonuk lol , a pleasure, one note mine stiffened up when I reassembled, so I had to move the brass nut up and down in its hole to line up with the thread 👍
@@Battery-cat That maybe why mine is stiff then (oooerrr) - genuine thanks for this. I got to the nut part twice, before reassembly with much swearing.
@@theflyingchillipepper Assemble it completely but leave the nut clamp screw loose. Tap things with a hammer to jolt any bits that are close than the rest slight away - before finally clamping the nut by tightening the grubscrew. If everything runs freely, that's about right :) Adjust the gib adjustment to give a slight stiffness to the movement - bearing in mind it'll be more worn in the middle - so be sure the ends of travel are not too stiff to make that part difficult to use smoothly. HTH.
You pull the nut out rather than rotating it. Measure how deep the base of the nut is to help putting it back together then. Aligning nut again is a pain!
I did this same thing the other day on my newly acquired Colchester Student :) I found that one of the saddle 'keeper' bolts fit in the brass(bronze?) nut, then a couple of risers with a strap clamp spanning them. Then screw the bolt in and the brass nut comes out. (After removing the set screw of course lol) Had me thinking a bit though! I did remove a gib strip also, but I don't think it was required to be. Your lathe looks in very good condition! Mine is quite 'used'. I still love it though! While I'm on the subject Chris, do you know of any suppliers who may have new half nuts? Cant find any here (Tas, Aus) and mine are "ahem.. quite worn".
MrPhatNOB parts are hard to come by as you know , I find most things on eBay just takes a little time , my lathe is pretty worn to , some of the gears are very noisy, it just got treated to a paint job 😅 and a few bits here and there, what are you going to use your lathe for ?
Gib, pronunciation - sorry, OED no help - offers both pronunciations ! Neither does Practical Machinist ! Same as gib head key to me - so same as the Bee Gees ! but it does seem like some places use 'jib' ! - So my argument is that if it's jib' spell it that way !
Most helpful, you've gust saved me a lot of head scratching. Thanks Chris.
Bless you for this video. I just removed my compound and will be dismantling for cleaning. You saved me alot of time.
Thank you for your work and thoughtfulness. TG
Thank you Thomas! Always nice to hear from a fellow lathe enthusiast, what are your plans for it ? And please have a look around my channel , lots of lathe stuff , and tools, and strange stuff to lol
@@Battery-cat Greetings from Iowa. I retired last Aug. After 47 years of machine shop work. I enjoy making things. I missed not having a lathe nearby so I found one and been bring it back into service.
Really enjoyed watching you work in the video. TG
I think your videos are a must for any Colchester owner!
Just as well I couldn’t afford that Harrison m300 I wanted then lol ... or this would be a different channel ... I really wanted one at the time , a do like the Colchester though 😊
Hi Chris, next time pull the nut instead of push, this is the right way
Vincenzo P. Ha ha ! I will if there’s only two ways to do something I’ll do it the wrong way 😅 thanks for viewing
Holy jigsaw puzzle Batman! That was not what I thought would get it off. Great work Sir.....
jster1963 lol it’s funny how I’ve never taken it apart in all the time I’ve had it ... it was worth the exercise to clean service it 🙂
Correct - only needed to pull out the brass/bronze? nut
Thank you very much for the tutorial .... greetings from PERU. you saved my life
Greetings from England 👋 , darkest Peru ... that’s where Paddington bear is from , have you met him ? 🙂👍
I tried the same thing last month. Got down to that brass nut and it’s as far as I got. Now I know! Nice work Chris
The brass nut just needs pulling out. Gib need not be removed - slide should slide off one or both ends.
14:50 - the flat is not for separating the two parts, it's for the nut retaining screw to butt up against to hold it in place !
Thank you for a very helpful video. Very much appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Chris,
An enjoyable video...
Cheers
Paul,,
The Knackler's Workshop thanks Paul ! Nice channel you have 🙂 keep up the good work
@@Battery-cat Thank you...
The 5/16" threaded hole in the nut is there so a 5/16" bolt can be screwed into it to pull the nut out (after removing the screw and loosening the set screw). No other disassembly is required.
Thank you I didn’t know that !
Glad I saw this Chris. I've stripped one of the clamp bolts. Job done now.
Cheers Dave at "THE LAND OF SPANNERS AND HAMMERS
bigblue1402 glad it was of help to you 🙂where’s the land of spanners 🔧?
Nice one !! It’s the same on the later triumph 2000 lathes as well
Machining Basics cool that’s interesting 🙂
Pulled my leadscrew nut out with a slide hammer! a great watch
lol ! now that's one thing i don't own .... think ill make one , what do you use your lathe for mostly ? thanks for viewing :)
@@Battery-cat Work as a Shipwright so it's rudder bearings and the like, boaty stuff. Made a new cross slide leadscrew and nut for the old girl, sold a couple as well. Play with wood & fibreglass during the week and metal at weekends. Love the channel and your "oh well" approach, great stuff keep it coming!
I'm Stubby impressive! What machine did you make the lead screw on ? Nothing wrong with a bit of metal work at the weekend 🙂 I’m the same as you ,i work with wood all week , and metal is way more exciting... sparks ⚡️ and all 😅 thanks for viewing
@@Battery-cat Leadscrew was made on the student to start with, was good but not good enough so bought leadscrew and machined the end, made a jig to hold nuts of centre made lots of taps till i got one that left no backlash in the nut, designed a two part antibacklash nut that can be adjusted in situ. works very well but now have about ten taps that aren't good for anything. Got one leadscrew kit on ebay if you want to have a look. Cheers
Thanks for doing this for me. You are my hero. :) When you reassemble.... make another video just in case. :D
daemonuk lol , a pleasure, one note mine stiffened up when I reassembled, so I had to move the brass nut up and down in its hole to line up with the thread 👍
@@Battery-cat That maybe why mine is stiff then (oooerrr) - genuine thanks for this. I got to the nut part twice, before reassembly with much swearing.
@@theflyingchillipepper Needs correct alignment and lube !
@@millomweb any details on how to perform the correct alignment?
@@theflyingchillipepper Assemble it completely but leave the nut clamp screw loose. Tap things with a hammer to jolt any bits that are close than the rest slight away - before finally clamping the nut by tightening the grubscrew. If everything runs freely, that's about right :) Adjust the gib adjustment to give a slight stiffness to the movement - bearing in mind it'll be more worn in the middle - so be sure the ends of travel are not too stiff to make that part difficult to use smoothly. HTH.
Yay...i wanna take my compound apart now just because i now know how to.....lol
Yay its done fer...
Awesome
fattossa worth cleaning / servicing it John 👍😊
Gib has to come out to part castings
Chris did you here me yelling? That bronze nut needs to come out!
Sorry deaf in one ear !!!
You pull the nut out rather than rotating it. Measure how deep the base of the nut is to help putting it back together then. Aligning nut again is a pain!
Enjoyed the puzzle along with you Chris lol. Why do they design things so complicated?
EYUP TONY I don’t know , it’s a strange one 🤔 ,
It is to sell workshop manuals. Nothing else.
7:36 Top slide screw nut retaining screw: 5/16 U.N.C. 7/16 long. Size of hex - not mentioned !
pmailkeey it’s not a how to channel more of a erm ho erm let’s see what happens how not to do it 😅🤔👀🤷♂️😊 get there in the end ...
What is the nut size for the swivel bolts, the nuts that hold the compound to the cross slide?
I did this same thing the other day on my newly acquired Colchester Student :) I found that one of the saddle 'keeper' bolts fit in the brass(bronze?) nut, then a couple of risers with a strap clamp spanning them. Then screw the bolt in and the brass nut comes out. (After removing the set screw of course lol)
Had me thinking a bit though! I did remove a gib strip also, but I don't think it was required to be.
Your lathe looks in very good condition! Mine is quite 'used'. I still love it though!
While I'm on the subject Chris, do you know of any suppliers who may have new half nuts? Cant find any here (Tas, Aus) and mine are "ahem.. quite worn".
MrPhatNOB parts are hard to come by as you know , I find most things on eBay just takes a little time , my lathe is pretty worn to , some of the gears are very noisy, it just got treated to a paint job 😅 and a few bits here and there, what are you going to use your lathe for ?
Gib Like the Bee gees!
Roy Lang thanks Roy I’ll definitely not forget that now 😅
14:41 just pull that nut out - don't knock it in !
Why do I wanna call you Chris DeBodge?
You can if you want to !😅
9:24 - surely no need to remove gib. just need the screw nut out !
I agree. Nut out then slide out.
The hex socket-headed screws are Allen screws - not 'Allen-headed.....'
Gib, pronunciation - sorry, OED no help - offers both pronunciations ! Neither does Practical Machinist ! Same as gib head key to me - so same as the Bee Gees ! but it does seem like some places use 'jib' ! - So my argument is that if it's jib' spell it that way !
pmailkeey don’t know if I’m coming or going now ...!
@@Battery-cat Drop me your e-address for something nice.
pmailkeey cjmconstruction1@outlook.com
Cheers, you can delete that comment now to hide it again if you like.