HOW TO SILVER SOLDER - FOR BEGINNERS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
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This Video is a short extract from my "How to Build a Model Steam Launch" 3 DVD set - over 5 hours of video instruction which is available in NTSC & PAL formats from my "Mainsteam" website.
This is a rough cut preview of a tiny section of "How to Build a Model Steam Launch" This small section covers soldering the water tank feed pipes of the steam launch that fit inside the built in boiler feed water tank. The finished set of DVD's cover every aspect of building a model steam launch in very fine detail - but using very simple & easy to understand language for beginners to the hobby.
The voiceover is temporary, just done whilst sat at the imac.
As someone who has silver soldered for 40 years, now retired, Keith’s description on how to do it is spot on. Well done.
Thank you {:-)))
As someone who has silver soldered for 40 years, why are you watching a video on how to silver solder?
Why do replyguys feel an urge to comment on everything? Guy obviously has an interest.
@RedEyedJedi you have a rock for a brain to ask that question.
I came here to find out what silver solder was so i could pin and weld a surefire muzzle brake to my bcm 14.5 enhanced light weight fluted barrel. I've got to say I really enjoyed your voice. You should do books on tape or radio or something.
I've been struggling with this for hours! I've watched many other videos, and finally your calming words of wisdom has brought some resolve. I was certainly getting my project too hot. The solder was just dripping right off. Also, I fear I wasn't doing a very good job at prepping the work and didn't allow to flux enough time to set up.
Next thing I build a kayak . Sail from South Africa to britain.7000 miles. Unfairly deported back to South Africa after six years in Britain. High unemployment rate in South Africa. Red seal welder.❤
You can basically use any acid to clean brass and copper, it just takes longer if you use a weak acid. So a few acids are acetic acid or vinegar (I would recommend glacial acetic acid) and citric acid. I've looked at the SDS for a few brass and copper cleaners and many of them use citric acid. However, it seems like you need to soak the metal for a while, so if you have an large or awkwardly shaped piece you might want to use a strong acid to brush on.
Hi Keith. Thanks for your video. It was really helpful as I'm just learning to silver solder. Ive hado a myford ML7 for just under 6 months now and I'm learning at a rapid rate. I'm only 12 so I have many more years to learn but I'm learning early!Greetings from Sheffield.Ben
i almost wish everyone sounded like you...
I would listen to you for hours...
Thank you for the video!
This is one of the best tutorial videos I've seen for this. The others waffled about options with soldering which left me with more questions than it had answered. It's straight to the point and just what I needed :)
Yes, I live in Dewsbury - thanks for watching :-)
Immensely helpful and to the point thanks I just ordered a kit for something, been putting it off for years, but really need to do it now. Looks far simpler than I originally thought it would be, I always thought of it like welding so kept clear, anyway, thanks for making this video. Hello from Scotland.
Thank you very much mate, the job when perfect and I had a laugh at the product name "Easy Flow Number 2" haha.
I realise this is off topic, but I want to join copper to copper with the highest thermal conduction possible. The project is a high performance heatsink. The only feasible metal with a higher conductivity than copper is silver.
So I'm wondering if there's any physical reason why pure silver can't be used as a brazing filler for copper. I've experimented poking copper wire into blobs of molten silver (with borax flux), and the copper seems to dissolve. Does this mean it would work?
From here in the States thanks for sharing and we owe you a brew! Best of luck!
Thank you - there are many more videos on Patreon: www.patreon.com/keithappleton
Hi,... The solder you're using seems easy to work with.
I got some silver solder stick (6%) and it was impossible to melt with a little propane blowtorch. So I used a big one, connected to a cilinder,.. I had to put two copper pieces toghether (a piece of pipe on a cap, no through) and at the end it worked, but I used a screwdriver to knead the solder against the copper. I put normal "solder paste?"... well, I'm happy with the thing,... it's hard as a rock, but I would appreciate some advice
He’s not silver soldering, it’s too low a melting point.
Brilliant instruction, thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Tried to get an email address for Blackgates based on the website given in the video. No luck whatsoever. Does anyone know an address that will work?
www.blackgates.co.uk
It's funny, I started silver soldering earlier this year and seemed to be getting worse until I studied this. I strayed off course by not heating my pieces correctly when adding the solder and applying flux around the join when the solder doesn't seem to flow into it properly. I was wasting time and resources by acting impatient/ignorant of the process. I'm glad I've finally managed to get the correct idea again by watching this.
I recently started using flux paste that I made myself by way of filing home made silver solder (60-65% silver, 20-35% brass and 5-20% zinc) I wonder if you or anyone reading this has tried silver solder paste? I'd like to know if it's to be avoided for any reasons or if there are advantages with it or the rods. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for education. I need to solder a plumbing (possibly tin coated) 1/2" NPT nipple to a high carbon steel spring. What flux should I use? Can I use brass as the metal? Will they stick together, considering the different materials and the fact one is coated? If I use a mix of Propane and other gases to raise its temp (I guess it's called MAPP), would it work as if I used only Propane? Thanks in advance.
I have found a partly-built boiler and condenser tank. I wonder if there is a simple way to tell whether it is silver soldered or soft soldered. The man who built it is dead so I cannot ask him. It doesn't look too good so it may be best scrapped (my brother reckons it is scrap). But it would be nice to complete the model if possible.
Borax flux and formic acid, nice, real old school and still the best way. Sir you have made my day, thank you.
Hi Keith! I'm a Leeds based Saxophonist playing trad Jass and the like. I have a few solder jobs to be done on my saxophones and I'd really appreciate some advice on flame sizes for heat work and general approached to connecting such fine parts on a otherwise huge body tube. Jaque Blackgates recommended I get in touch with you so that you could give her the ok to give me your number! It would be a pleasure / privilege to have a chat my friend. Oly
No problem }:-)))
Hello Keith Question on working with silver solder, do you know if you can silver solder brass shim stock with out in burring up or distorting, I am working on a small diaphragm type steam engine and was interested in silver soldering . It appears as though silver give a good lasting strong joint but does require a lot of heat to get in to flow right . Any help would be appreciated . David
You would probably melt the shim brass using Silver solder....
sounds like insufficient heat & applying the silver solder much too early - wait until the flux takes on a "watery" appearance & starts to spread before applying the silver solder.
Well fancy that Dewsbury I too thought you must be from my neck of the woods, I grow up in Wakefield and live in Horbury for a long time, when I was with the cycle touring club we went out through Dewsbury every other week what's the hill called dropping down into Dewsbury under the viaduct was it Hanging Heaton lane??? those were the days off up through Battly heading for Skipton and a day in the dales, all great videos very well shot with brilliantly informative commentary,, Thanks
I can't recommend that - the fumes given off during the process could be harmful - try doing it outside .....
Keith, thanks for the great video.
The problem I’m having is the solder not sticking. Could it me a mismatch of solder and flux? Too hot?
Thanks
Whatever I show in my videos definitely works. Just copy what I do exactly.
@ImMichaelTaylor No, pure silver will not flow into the joint gap. Also, pure silver has a melting point about 100 C higher than that of the alloy used in copper pipe. Even if you used very pure copper, the silver and copper would form a eutectic alloy with about 55% silver. This is what is happening when you're dissolving copper in to molten silver.
Your best bet is just to use the highest solver content solder which is ‘Hard’ silver jewellers solder. Google ‘Cookson Gold’,
@ImMichaelTaylor Talk to a jeweler, they use 99.8% Stirling silver to solder every day. Can tell you what flux to use with it for the best results as well.
good tutorial.
Would it be any different soldering stainles steel.
i have a stainless grate to solder to a stainless ashpan
@growler1687 No Silver soldering is called Hard Soldering.. where as lead soldering is known as soft soldering ... silver soldering is conducted at a higher temperature range.... next step up would be bronze welding known as Brazing.....
Thank you Keith for showing us all on how to solder. I prefer to use a soldering iron for the safety aspect of no flame. The explanation is spot on as many people think this is a dark art. Thanks,VF
Easy flo2 is no longer made, but slightly higher melt is still legal.... the flux remains the same
Morning Keith, I see in this video you are using Easy Flo #2 which has become extinct in America due the cadmium content. I was looking at the Black Gates catalog and see both Silver-Flo 24 and 55. If you have had experience with this, can you tell us about them and if there is any difference in their use? As in all you work, I am sure we will find it useful.
Silverflo 55 is what I use, it seems almost identical to Easyflo Number 2
When I blew the flame onto the silver solder, it always formed a ball and would not wet the stainless steel surface I was trying to solder it on. Is that something to do with type of flux used? or more likely the stainless steel surface not hot enough?
Hi, i ve been to your web site any was looking for the soldering and the flux but could nt find them, can you pls tell me where do i have to go? Can i use it to repair silver items? Also can i use paypal as a payment method?
Thanks
Should parts to be silver soldered be a tight fit, a easy slide fit, or a loose wobbly fit to get the correct capillary action? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Leave enough space for the Silver Solder to penetrate.
I hope I don't sound ignorant asking this, but is there any SAFE way to do silver soldering in a tiny apartment?
Which flux are you using? With stainless I think you would find Tenacity 5 flux would help you, as well as the other advice of course. It's surprising how much heat you need for silver soldering, pipe ferrules soon get up to temp, but if there's more metal involved it can be eye-opening to see how much heat you need. Stainless can be a nuisance to silver solder sometimes (I've noticed this to be more so post-cadmium). Good luck!
Do you guys answer questions. The appliance man was sealing an solder joint, but he got it red-hot, is that OK..?
Silver solder yes, but for ordinary soft solder - no red-hot required . . . . .
You should narrate children's books!
@keithappleton Thankyou for replying anyway. I noticed something about the thermal conductivity of alloys which seems to mean it wouldn't be a good idea even if it is possible.
@Dreddip "Talk to a jeweler" Yes, that's an idea. At the moment I need to find out if there's any soldering temperature I can pick which will stop the copper dissolving in the liquid silver, because that would probably ruin the conductivity. Turns out the thermal conductivity of mixtures of metals is usually much lower than either pure metal.
All my questions answered in one go. Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to post this video Keith.
Very informative.
Doc (a woodworker)
Great to meet the actual man, Keith, last week in person and a good chat about stuff whilst at the SteamWorkshop 👍
Mutual Lee, if I hadn't have been in work mode we maybe could have chatted for longer }:-)))
Great short videos. I am just beginning to get started in small model steam engines and your videos are very helpful. Thank you!
I didn't catch what you use for pickling. Could you please explain? Thank you, great videos. I think i watched about 87 of them since yesterday.
alex tworkowski "KILROC K" - Kettle de-scaler
Keith Appleton Thank you..I shall investigate it. Excuse me, as i am American.
alex tworkowski What you want to use is a pool chemical called PH Lower. The chemical name is Sodium Bisulfate and it is a partially neutralized form of sulferic acid. It's dirt cheap and works very well. It is the same chemical that is sold under the brand name Sparex. Just disolve as much as you can into hot tap water. A small fish tank heater submerged into the pickle will make the pickle more aggressive. At room temp, this pickle is very tame. Like you can forget a piece is in it and go to bed and in the morning it will still be there.
Alternately, you can pick up sulfuric acid at an auto part store, ask for motorcycle battery acid. Dilute it 10 to 1.
In either case use ONLY copper or plastic tongs to put stuff in and out. Never put anything ferrous into your pickle.
Good luck, tell us how your project turns out.
Artificer Made Great info. Thanks
Artificer Made Thank you for your advice. I am aware of Sulphuric acid, but I prefer the "Kilroc K" that I use. it is as aggressive as I need it to be even in low temperatures and does the job perfectly.
I'm trying to solder a nipple onto a 2mmOD Cu pipe. I use soft silver solder, Stay-Brite and
Stay-Clean liquid flux. I use a hand grip gun type butane torch as i follow your direction
(clean the pipe tip w steel wool, can't clean 2mm ID of the nipple however.) and not putting
hand grease on ea. Squirted the tube tip w the flux, and inserted the nipple. I then re-squirt
the joint w the flux. I move my flame from the tube just behind the joint and then concentrate
my heat on the nipple to draw the solder in. When the nipple get red, i touch the .031"D
solder wire but it beads at the wire tip and won't get smeared on the joint.
1. Why the solder tip won't melt and fill the joint, ending up as a bead on the wire tip?
2. I get black film while doing this at the joint. I even get that film when i apply no flux and
not solder at the joint. Why? Where did it come from? Obviously from the butane gas.
Same for Propane gas. So how do you prevent the film from forming? Re-squirting flux
despite the film seems to let solder flow
3. Tinning the tube tip w 400W electric gun ended up solder flowing in side the tube and
plugged up the nipple hole as well. Placing a ring of .031D stay-brite ended up the same
plug up
4. How do u prevent the flame from taking a bite (melt) out of the tube and even the tail
of the nipple?
Soft Silver Solder ??? maybe a viewer can help you ......
@Schuten Dohkji. I´m guessing that you mean plumbing solder, with about three percent silver in?
When I made the plumbing in my house, I was a novice at soldering. The black film is soot, and, in my experience, it appeared when I overheated the pipe, before putting the solder at place, and this happened on 15 mm copper pipes.
If these circumstances apply to your situation, you must NOT make the copper red. You must apply the solder much earlier.
Be genereous with the flux, I suspect it´s somewhat mild.
Good luck.
Hi there mate, great video. I am currently trying to silver solder a piece of brass that I bent round into a cylinder and am not trying to solder the joint together. I am applying flux, then laying a piece of silver solder along the join on the inside, but when I heat it up the silver solder just forms into beads and doesn't flow into the joint. I cant understand why as I am putting loads of flux on and making sure it gets rights into the joint. Please help! Thanks
+Beasty729 Either wrong flux/silver solder combination - or insufficient heat - I have other videos on the TH-cam channel explaining in more detail.
+Keith Appleton thanks, I think it was not enough heat, sorted it now though. Again thanks, great videos.
Many thanks for the knowledge, of course i realise this film is quite old,,i have been to Blackgates and it appears they no longer sell the solder and flux you were using,and do you use the solder on a reel or the solder rods?
They still sell "Easyflo" flux, the silver solder i use is in stick form and it's called "Silverflo 55"
@@keithappleton thankyou very much indeed, i have a 3"scale traction engine and have recently soldered a small copper pipe with "soft solder" it may of course be fine ? but i think i would like to get some silver solder just in case,, thanks again Neil
Hi, if you're using flux coated rods, do you still need to flux the work piece?
I have never used flux coated rods so I cannot comment.
Last part of video - polishing - is off-camera!
I am really sorry about that {:-((( I will try much harder next time . . . .
Thank you for your carefully considered clip, what the internet SHOULD be all about
Hi Keith, Thanks for the video. It's very helpful. I have a question that hopefully you may be able to help with: After soldering, you say in the video: 'Let the pipes cool to black and then quench them in cold water". What is the effect of this? Is it to stiffen or to soften the material? For my purposes we need the material to be stiffened after soldering. What would achieve this? Thanks very much
Answered already via your Email question .......
In case you didn't get it : Quenching causes thermal shock and helps to initially de-scale the pipes to a certain degree. After applying red heat to the pipes during Silver Soldering, the copper pipe would still be soft (annealed) even without quenching. If you want to harden up the copper after silver soldering repeatedly bend and straighten the pipes and they will "work harden"
@@keithappleton Thanks Keith, yes i got the reply. Very helpful. I'm working with Solid brass tube 7mm diameter and i want the tube to be as stiff as possible after soldering and i do not have the option of bending and straightening as it will deform the piece which would not be good. Is there another way other than work hardening that you know of?
Hello Fred, I will put this question to the viewers - I assumed that you were using Copper pipe.
i purchased hard silver solder wire . and attempting to fix a bandsaw blade but apparently my normal flux paste does not work with silver solder
3 failed attempts and a lot of annoyance
Silver Solder needs Silver Solder flux - soft soldering is entirely different.
Yeah, you won't want to use resin flux, or that red stuff (zinc chloride). You can buy brazing/silver soldering flux pretty cheaply (a can is a lifetime supply if you can keep it clean and dry), a lot of people use plain borax, some use plain boric acid. I mix them together in a little porcelain mortar, and when it dries up can use this to grind it up again, along with a little water or alcohol. The commercial stuff works pretty well though, and you only need a little!
I concur Chris Barton!
Sounds like you're from Yorkshire, I live near Wakefield. Good video btw.
i use steam and this was helpfull
@keithappleton ok, thank you, i'll keep that in mind on next project?
It looks so easy when you do it. My first attempt was a mess. I guess I need more practice.
my first attempts were messy too . . . you need a lot of heat - but not too much ...
@@keithappleton how long do you heat it for?
very nicely detailed thank you.
Good job mate😂
Thank you {:-)))
Successful work !!!
This is comfy.
Where do you get ur unions from
www.blackgates.co.uk - email: mat@blackgates.co.uk
you talk awesome! lol
thanks
is silver solder safe for water lines
yes very much so.
Great vid Keith.
What size pipe is that?
3/16 of an inch diameter . . . .
Thanks Keith! :)
@keithappleton I was trying to solder steel to steel, no copper involved. The flux i used is called "alpha metal" it's just a small kit that came with the 2% silver.
Excellent: concise, to the point and accurate, Thank you.
i watched this and follow but the flux just got burnt to black and the silver balled up on the surface :( what did i do wrong? i cleaned the surface with brake cleaner, then soapy water, then let dry.
I've done this many times. Assuming you had clean bright metal and the right flux, the next problem is heating too fast, and going RIGHT BY that magic moment when the flux is molten and still and the base metal looks clean and bright... the flux can only do so much! Also, I think (this is a little out there) that the flux is a glass, it's a bunch of molten oxides, eh? I think it's well to have a slightly oxidizing flame or a neutral one, but I think a reducing flame hurts the flux! In my own many failures trying to silver solder stainless... I think too much heat was a main problem, and if it isn't working it's natural to want to heat it MORE which just ruins everything! I've found that the commercial black flux seems to work well, and it takes less heat and less silver-solder than you think. When it works it's pretty, and as strong as the base metal!
Pro-job. Nice vid mate, cheers.