2006 Kia Sedona 3.8L Blown Head Gaskets Part 2: Head Removal and Blown Gasket Analysis
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- Part 2 of this multi part series shows and describes removing both heads and precautions and gotcha's to be mindful of. With the heads we'll take a look at the gaskets and head and visually inspect block surfaces to further analyze the gasket failure as to why it occurred and if there is any obvious damage to block and head surfaces. We'll see how the trans fluid I trickled into the cylinders during compression checks was present on almost all head and deck surfaces confirming what the compression checks indicated with the front (LH) back cylinder gasket being mostly dry around the back cylinder. Video Also shows how to remove the valves.
Part 3 coming soon will show valve lapping and head reassembly.
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I'm in the middle of this same job. I'm only doing it because this is the only vehicle my sister has. I would like to ask you some questions on things not covered in your videos 1 or 2. Thanks
Hi, How can I help? Have you watched all my videos in the series on the Kia? What you'll see is that the real problem is stripped head bolt threads, which manifest as a blown head gasket. The special insert tool and inserts will cost $400-$600. It would take at least a day to do all 16 holes. Given that I tried a work around putting inserts at the top of the hole and SB Chevy Main Bolts. Didn't work. I've been building and modifying engines for over 40 years, so I'll experiment if the risk/reward seems worth it.
Bottom line, it's just not worth fixing. The tool is way too expensive for something you'll use for one job. There's so much work and gaskets and sensors and misc to replace. It's just not worth it. I'm selling it as a parts car. I'd suggest you do the same. Sell it as a whole parts car. Save your time (lots of it) and money and buy your sister a good running 4 cylinder Toyota Camry.
Watch all my videos on it. Especially "Aluminum Blocks Suck" If you still have questions I'll be happy to answer them. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I put this project on the back burner, I poured oil and WD and everything I could in the cyls, the motor won't turn more then a degree or two either way. I drained the oil, got 2 qts of water out, pulled that little oil pan, it goopy and sludgy, had chunks of what looks like timing guides, there was a circle of debris around the pump inlet, so much it might have clogged all oil flow. So I have decided to pull the thing down in the vehicle enough to see whats up, then go from there. I know a few cyls had plain water in them and sat for yrs like that. Might have to pull the whole thing out. I gave them 500 for it, but I know its history, it was running good when they bought it.
Hi, See my reply to your other comment on one of my other related Kia videos from that series. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 Are the cams caps numbered and indexed to position? This motor is most likely destroyed, the heads look like they had been cooked, nothing but hard greasy sludge up top, rust and corrosion from the water. I'm betting the heads are toast. I've never seen one this bad. I got my work cut out. If you have an email I'll send pics.
Excellent video. I seem to have an identical issue. First my T fitting in back went. Can you explain why that breaking would affect the head gasket?
Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. The broken plastic "T" in the heater hoses will cause the coolant to dump which in turn overheats the engine.
You'll encounter stripped Head Bolt Threads. I've got a whole series on this issue and engine trying an alternative head bolt repair, attempting to cut new threads at the top of the block and use shorter traditional torque head bolts as the insert tool to repair the factory threads is about $600. Great idea, that just didn't work.
Besides the $600 for the insert tools, there's all the gaskets and sensors, Chains and guides, the 2 days it will take to do all the inserts and a week putting it together and hoping it doesn't leak.
My best advice is to do as I did. Put it on Facebook Market Place and put that money towards something else. It's not worth fixing. On it's best day that Kia is worth $1,200. Sold mine in 15 minutes for $500 and put AC in my truck with the money from the Kia. Thanks again for watching.
Cam caps have never had bearing inserts, not the engines I have seen.
Hi Ya, Seems to be the norm on overhead cam. I'm use to Old School Cast Iron Pushrod Engines. Also pasting in the same reply below I made to your other comments so you can be prepared for the almost certain stripped head bolt threads you won't find out about till it's too late as I did and countless other folks judging by the amount of videos on the subject and number of expensive $$$ Insert Thread Repair Kits available:
Just so you know and can prepare to spend $400 - $600 on a Steel Insert Head Bolt Thread Kit, you're going to have stripped head bolt threads which you won't find until you start to crank down with the new Torque To Yield Head Bolts. They're like a hot knife through butter. Here's my video of the threads stripping in real time doing the Torque To Yield 120 Degree pull. It did it on every bolts except one: th-cam.com/video/6igoEem02nk/w-d-xo.html
I didn't want to spend that much on a one use tool that even on eBay folks were selling their used ones for the same price as a new kit and so tried an experiment to thread the top of the head bolt hole and put inserts at the top. Great idea, but won't work given the ID of the hole and OD of existing inserts that are at least an inch long. I've got 8 videos on this KIA. This one is where I say "My experiment just won't work": th-cam.com/video/o0_dUIHe2uc/w-d-xo.html
I back burnered the project and did some research on other Kits besides Manufacturer Approved Time Sert Kit which is close to $600 after factoring in everything. I'm going to go with the Huhn Solutions Kit for just over $400. I like the method of that kit better than Time Sert. It doesn't matter what make/model engine you have. It happen with a Chevy LS engine. The manufacturers skimp on the build and don't install inserts. The bolts work themselves loose and the heads move around. The head gasket is the symptom, not the cause.
In your case as far as you know, the radiator was the culprit, but I assure you when you attempt to torque down the heads, you're going to strip threads. Might only be one, but if it's just one it might as well be all of them. There's countless other videos I found after I experienced this on every engine you can imagine, the KIA/Hyundi 3.8 Lambda included. Just be prepared.
I'm going to copy and paste my response to your other comments in the hopes you see it.
@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 Great, this is why I watch you tube vids, I'm a seasoned mechanic but there's always these caveats and unknowns. Thread inserts don't sound like fun but the cost is exorbitant.
435 for the insert kit and 762 for a rebuild kit, yikes. Then the head work or rebuilt heads, I hope these heads didn't have a tendency to crack.
VW Jetta 1.9 TDI BRM has replaceable camshaft bearings. Aluminum head and two piece bearings with journals.
I just got a 2006 Sedona from my in laws, head gaskets are blown, they had a bad radiator and didn't get a new one in time, it was missing pretty bad, sat for 3 yrs now the engine is locked up.
Hi. Just so you know and can prepare to spend $400 - $600 on a Steel Insert Head Bolt Thread Kit, you're going to have stripped head bolt threads which you won't find until you start to crank down with the new Torque To Yield Head Bolts. They're like a hot knife through butter. Here's my video of the threads stripping in real time doing the Torque To Yield 120 Degree pull. It did it on every bolts except one: th-cam.com/video/6igoEem02nk/w-d-xo.html
I didn't want to spend that much on a one use tool that even on eBay folks were selling their used ones for the same price as a new kit and so tried an experiment to thread the top of the head bolt hole and put inserts at the top. Great idea, but won't work given the ID of the hole and OD of existing inserts that are at least an inch long. I've got 8 videos on this KIA. This one is where I say "My experiment just won't work": th-cam.com/video/o0_dUIHe2uc/w-d-xo.html
I back burnered the project and did some research on other Kits besides Manufacturer Approved Time Sert Kit which is close to $600 after factoring in everything. I'm going to go with the Huhn Solutions Kit for just over $400. I like the method of that kit better than Time Sert. It doesn't matter what make/model engine you have. It happen with a Chevy LS engine. The manufacturers skimp on the build and don't install inserts. The bolts work themselves loose and the heads move around. The head gasket is the symptom, not the cause.
In your case as far as you know, the radiator was the culprit, but I assure you when you attempt to torque down the heads, you're going to strip threads. Might only be one, but if it's just one it might as well be all of them. There's countless other videos I found after I experienced this on every engine you can imagine, the KIA/Hyundi 3.8 Lambda included. Just be prepared.
I'm going to copy and paste my response to your other comments in the hopes you see it.
I wonder what the driving symptoms were? Loss of power?
Hi. Sorry for the delayed response. Was out of town. Yes, it was all quite sudden. Very little warning. Rapidly lost power at 80 MPH and had to coast up and exit ramp and down into a shopping center. If you watch the Part 1 video I explain how it happened. th-cam.com/video/MRZ4pwwby5c/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Any reason why you didn’t pull the engine?
Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. It was a teardown inspection. For that purpose it's quick and easy to (relatively speaking) to pull the top end and assess the situation. Otherwise with this vehicle if it was decided to proceed with the repair, there's more than ample room to do so. Pulling the engine with this vehicle would needlessly add hours, with no benefit in making the repair any easier.
While I initially moved forward with the repair, it was realized during assembly that almost every head bolt thread was stripping out with the new Torque To Yield Bolts. Unlike Aviation, Automobile Manufacturers do not install steel threaded inserts into the aluminum treaded holes. It's built in obsolescence. All Aluminum Block Engines are destined to fail like this. The Insert Tool and Inserts for any make/model aluminum block engine run $400-$600. These are disposable engines and not worth repairing. I tried to get slick with a work around alternative repair, tapping and installing inserts at the top of the block. Great idea. Just didn't work. If you look at all the videos in the series you'll see that alternative attempt, and then I ultimately sold the van whole for parts and used the money to put AC in my truck. I strongly suggest doing the same. It will take 2 full days to put inserts in all the holes, another 1-2 full days to put it all together, and if everything goes perfectly, there's no leaks etc, when you're done you have vehicle worth $1,200 on it's best day. Just not worth it.
@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thanks for the reply!
You're welcome. I try to respond to all valid comments. Hope my response helps you decide what to do if you have one of these.