Good work, Daniel. The BR86 looks more than well. Great work and result. Wish you further much success with all the things you want to do in future for this big diorama. Greetings, Joachim
I see no cheating or easy way out, Daniel, but see a hell of a lot of creative skill and talent. You are amazing and this diorama is going to be fantastic, to say the least.
I have this kit but have yet to build it. Nice to see one put together. I'm probably opting for peace time red/black paint scheme when I build mine but good to see in grey as well. As always great work!
Very nice locomotive! Factory wall. You could approach the factory kit manufacturer and maybe buy additional wall pieces and glue them back to back or buy another factory kit and canibalise it if the cost is not prohibitive? You could also photocopy the wall You have and glue it to the wall you have to use as a piant guide. Remember the factory wall thickness! Very impressed with your work. Model on!
Hallo Daniel! You asked, why there were two different schemes of painting for this lokomotive. The grey coulor was just a way of simplifying the construction of the lokomotives. You need only oné kind of coulor in the Stock and it was easier and faster to apply just oné coulor! Therefore since about 1942 or 43 new lokomotives were delivered in plain grey. After the war, the usual Black and Grey was used again. Camouflage was important when it came to the decission which kind of grey should be used. The first oné was criticiesed as too light and therefore it was changed to a darker oné! Since there was not much time for cleaning the vebicles during the war, the original colour of black and red was no problém since it took
Love your work so far dude, but don't rush the wall's on the buildings. Most walls are very thick in construction , try foam board and paper bricks over the top on area's you will not see. Great work again !!
Your welcome and thanks for this great idea. I already looked into the embossed brick paper and luckily I found one 1/35 so will order one and will see how it looks. Thanks again for the advice. Best regards Danny
@@danielhorvath135miniaturew5 Glad to help! I hope they work for what you want to achieve. Definitely easier than manually carving a 1m long factory wall :-)
Hey Daniel, this series of videos has been great, love seeing all the updates. I'm building the BR86 at the minute. Did you paint in sub assemblies or once completed? Many thanks for any help!
Hi there thanks for your comment and im glad you like the series . Ill be back at it once the winter hits . Having a summer break atm. I have painted it after assembly dues to i choosed this colour scheme. I guess if you planning to do the black and red version then its needs to be painted in parts . Good luck with the build and best regards Danny
Well the laser cuts look verry thin. It might be a solution to order them again , cut the second pair a bit on the edges and glue the back sides together, Than the walls may have the right thickness they would have in reality for static reasons. And the model would not only look more realistic, but also have bricks on the inside. Cheap solution is wallpaper bricks. BTW it is awsome what you build here. I like it.
Yes unfortunately the laser cut kits are thin . Probably i will copy the panels and glue 2 together to make it a bit thicker but still not going to be as thick as it should. 2 will be 6mm . Anyway im not really worry about it yet will see when i get there im sure I figure something out. Thanks for your input and hope you stay tuned. Best regards Danny
@@danielhorvath135miniaturew5 OK if 2 are 6 mm That would be 21 cm in reality. A two to four story tall building would have at least a 2 bricks legth thickness to suport the needed beams for the floors. A metal factory like MAN would have double that thickness to compensate the needed static specifications to house metal work facilitys for the first floor and a 2 brick thickness for the second and third floor which would be buro floors only and not production floors. The "Reichsformat" from 1872 indicates that the bricks would have the Reichsnorm of 25 x 12 x 6,5 cm. A 4-Bricks Wall would be 4 x 25 +3 cm = 103 cm. That is 2,943 cm in 1/35. A 3 cm wall will look right in the basement and a 1,5 cm thick wall from the second floor up. The laser cuts are even too thin for housing buildings A 3 story rental flat building build from 1860 to 1939 would have to have a 1,2 brick thickness required. Thats 25 + 12+ 1 = 38 cm and would be round 1 cm in 1/35.
Here a Link to RT-Diorama for additonal factory signs to use in your diorama. www.rt-diorama.de/deutsch/zum-shop-1/printed-accessories-schilder/ RT have a lot of usefull stuff. And no i don't get percentages from them.
Oh no, Deutsche Bahn exists since about 1992! After the ww II, the name changed in Western Germany to Deutsche Bundesbahn, in Eastern Germany, the old name remained tiill the reunion in 1992. This way there was no change to the Situation ať the end of the war and therefore the Deutsche Reichsbahn was allowed to run the railway service in the hole city of Berlin!
Pardon, but there is a bad mistake: german locomotives before 1957 had only two lamps for each side, front and rear. These lamps had during the WW II "Verdunkelungsaufsätze"!
During the war the lamps were dimmed by "Verdunkelungsaufsätzen", and it could have caused a very serious panalty if this was neglected, but nevertheless it is difficult to find those items on modells
Great review, amazing project!
Looks Stunning. Wish there would be 1/35 Decals to make a late DB (Deutsche Bundesbahn) out of it
Since it didn't také much time until the coulor looks like a mixture of Brown and Grey!
Looks like a really nice kit.Cant wait to see the finished diorama
Great information, and love that train build.
Thank you and im happy that you find it useful 😊
Good work, Daniel. The BR86 looks more than well. Great work and result.
Wish you further much success with all the things you want to do in future for this big diorama.
Greetings, Joachim
Thank you for your good wishes 🙏 im glad you liked it. Best regards Danny
I see no cheating or easy way out, Daniel, but see a hell of a lot of creative skill and talent. You are amazing and this diorama is going to be fantastic, to say the least.
Thanks for your kind words. Appreciate your support 😊🙏
I have this kit but have yet to build it. Nice to see one put together. I'm probably opting for peace time red/black paint scheme when I build mine but good to see in grey as well. As always great work!
Very nice locomotive! Factory wall. You could approach the factory kit manufacturer and maybe buy additional wall pieces and glue them back to back or buy another factory kit and canibalise it if the cost is not prohibitive? You could also photocopy the wall You have and glue it to the wall you have to use as a piant guide. Remember the factory wall thickness! Very impressed with your work. Model on!
Thanks for your input appreciate it. Will see which option i go with . Will keep you guys posted. Thanks again and best regards Danny
Hallo Daniel!
You asked, why there were two different schemes of painting for this lokomotive. The grey coulor was just a way of simplifying the construction of the lokomotives. You need only oné kind of coulor in the Stock and it was easier and faster to apply just oné coulor! Therefore since about 1942 or 43 new lokomotives were delivered in plain grey. After the war, the usual Black and Grey was used again. Camouflage was important when it came to the decission which kind of grey should be used. The first oné was criticiesed as too light and therefore it was changed to a darker oné! Since there was not much time for cleaning the vebicles during the war, the original colour of black and red was no problém since it took
Thanks very much for all the information, appreciate it 😊 best regards Danny
Love your work so far dude, but don't rush the wall's on the buildings. Most walls are very thick in construction , try foam board and paper bricks over the top on area's you will not see. Great work again !!
Thanks for your comment and input appreciate the support 🙏
A lovely build ,may I ask which decals did you get ?
Thanks for the update!
For the other side of the factory wall, why not look for embossed bricks papers? I think there are some in the market
Tamiya sells nice sheets of brick
Your welcome and thanks for this great idea. I already looked into the embossed brick paper and luckily I found one 1/35 so will order one and will see how it looks. Thanks again for the advice. Best regards Danny
@@danielhorvath135miniaturew5 Glad to help! I hope they work for what you want to achieve. Definitely easier than manually carving a 1m long factory wall :-)
Nice model! Interesting painting ;) terrible captions :o
Hey Daniel, this series of videos has been great, love seeing all the updates. I'm building the BR86 at the minute. Did you paint in sub assemblies or once completed? Many thanks for any help!
Hi there thanks for your comment and im glad you like the series . Ill be back at it once the winter hits . Having a summer break atm. I have painted it after assembly dues to i choosed this colour scheme. I guess if you planning to do the black and red version then its needs to be painted in parts . Good luck with the build and best regards Danny
Well the laser cuts look verry thin. It might be a solution to order them again , cut the second pair a bit on the edges and glue the back sides together, Than the walls may have the right thickness they would have in reality for static reasons. And the model would not only look more realistic, but also have bricks on the inside. Cheap solution is wallpaper bricks.
BTW it is awsome what you build here. I like it.
Yes unfortunately the laser cut kits are thin . Probably i will copy the panels and glue 2 together to make it a bit thicker but still not going to be as thick as it should. 2 will be 6mm . Anyway im not really worry about it yet will see when i get there im sure I figure something out. Thanks for your input and hope you stay tuned. Best regards Danny
@@danielhorvath135miniaturew5 OK if 2 are 6 mm That would be 21 cm in reality. A two to four story tall building would have at least a 2 bricks legth thickness to suport the needed beams for the floors. A metal factory like MAN would have double that thickness to compensate the needed static specifications to house metal work facilitys for the first floor and a 2 brick thickness for the second and third floor which would be buro floors only and not production floors.
The "Reichsformat" from 1872 indicates that the bricks would have the Reichsnorm of 25 x 12 x 6,5 cm. A 4-Bricks Wall would be 4 x 25 +3 cm = 103 cm. That is 2,943 cm in 1/35. A 3 cm wall will look right in the basement and a 1,5 cm thick wall from the second floor up. The laser cuts are even too thin for housing buildings A 3 story rental flat building build from 1860 to 1939 would have to have a 1,2 brick thickness required. Thats 25 + 12+ 1 = 38 cm and would be round 1 cm in 1/35.
Here a link for the "Reichsnorn" for bricks: www.baunetzwissen.de/glossar/r/reichsformat-726000
Here a Link to RT-Diorama for additonal factory signs to use in your diorama.
www.rt-diorama.de/deutsch/zum-shop-1/printed-accessories-schilder/
RT have a lot of usefull stuff. And no i don't get percentages from them.
@@TherealBagaluth thanks I know about them already. Appreciate your help. Regards Danny
Deutsch Reichsbahn was pre- and during the war.
After ww2 it became Deutsche Bahn.
Oh no, Deutsche Bahn exists since about 1992!
After the ww II, the name changed in Western Germany to Deutsche Bundesbahn, in Eastern Germany, the old name remained tiill the reunion in 1992. This way there was no change to the Situation ať the end of the war and therefore the Deutsche Reichsbahn was allowed to run the railway service in the hole city of Berlin!
Pardon, but there is a bad mistake: german locomotives before 1957 had only two lamps for each side, front and rear. These lamps had during the WW II "Verdunkelungsaufsätze"!
Any mistake you find regarding the model , feel free to contact trumpeter and let them know mate. Good luck 🤞
Usualy the lokomotives were fitted with only two lamps on each side. It had a speciál meaning when the third lamp was used!
During the war the lamps were dimmed by "Verdunkelungsaufsätzen", and it could have caused a very serious panalty if this was neglected, but nevertheless it is difficult to find those items on modells