Great coverage of commonly-used techniques - showing how practical circuits were built is very educational for new builders. Also, having seen Dave AA7EE's circuits in person, I agree: he is an artist! I hope to someday match his patience and forethought in building.
I am extremely impressed with the variety of inexpensive ways to create a circuit board. I struggle with etching a board and it is messy and time consuming and mistake-prone -- at least for me since I am an electronics idiot. I will try several of your techniques. THANKS!! GREAT Video.
I built a small copper clad board when I worked for IBM in the late 80s that used an HP step recovery diode that was used in a TDR in a high end HP oscilloscope (HP54120T) (the diode could only be bought by those who owned the scope and so may have needed it for repair) and the board could generate a 50 ps pulse with an amplitude of 5 volts. Needless to say it needed to have a very strict 50 ohm impedance throughout with minimal impedance discontinuities. It used rigid coax and sma connectors.
In a pinch, I have used 1/32" RC airplane plywood as "circuit board" and as "islands" and used combinations of the methods you show. Also, various widths of the adhesive backed copper foil tapes used in stained glass work can be employed in lots of creative ways. Great video!
Thank you W2aew, you are a master at this. For those of us who have a drill press, time and interest, as you pointed out, we can make any number of circle cutting bits that cut to any depth, from scoring on to complete perforation, by serration of the end of various diameter steel tubes as Davies by the Sea points out, I think he used a tubular bearing out of an old video cassette. A diamond cutting tool is far superior in this application, of course, because the fiberglass in pcb dulls any plain steel tubular bit very quickly. Still, in a pinch one will improvise with whatever one has at hand.
Your channel is what I ve been searching for. Im glad you are very straight forward with your videos. Alot of people on youtube try to act funny and goofy or put on a show to much and its annoying or just plan sad and the subject matter then suffers
Love the dead-bug construction. I'm pretty new to electronics and have done it with a dremel before, but cutting out those little islands with a hole-saw is a great idea! There's likely to be a very similar and far more affordable diamond impregnated hole-saw in your local hardware or tool store though. They'll be in with the masonry bits, because they're intended for tiles.
I work in a tool shop here in Australia and our supplier makes them as small as 6mm outer diameter. Don't know the exact inner diameter, but the cutting edge is =/< 1mm. They're an Australian manufacturer, but I have no doubts a similar product would be available in most developed countries.
Tin snips! That's how. I've been making all sorts of bad edges trying to working with copper clad board. I bought some snips today, and its EASY! Thank you so much.
~4 years later, and it's still a great video. Thanks. Something to mention, that may or may not have been prevalent when you made this video, that I just discovered recently is that you can get professional PCB with your design done VERY cheap these days. I won't point to a specific one so that it doesn't look like I'm plugging anything, but $2 or so will get you ~5 boards in the 10cm x 10cm single sided range and some of the more popular pcb design applications spit out exactly what they need to build them. Of course the methods that you show here are still great at-hand solutions when an idea hits you or when you want to test something. Just wanted to put it out here for anyone else who may not be aware. I was actually researching small CNC machines when I discovered how cheap it has gotten to have them done professionally.
It really is amazing how companies like OSHPark (and many more) have made small-run PCB production very affordable - years ago it would have cost hundreds or thousands to get a small run fabricated.
this wonderful. thank you very much for taking the time. I'd think one can get the small diamond holesaw for granite, to cut islands. found at most hardware store, shop local.
+saturn5tony There are many factors in studying electronics. One resource I found which succeeds in merging these is the Gregs Electro Blog (google it if you're interested) definately the best info that I have ever seen. look at this amazing site.
Nice vid! I've been tinkering off and on with electronics since the 70s (the 60s if you count taking stuff apart without it ever working again!) and I just learned about Manhattan style circuit construction yesterday! It blew my mind! Of course I'd done point to point, and I'd seen the Dead Bug trick without knowing there was a name for it, but I had never seen the island style. Whether it be the raised islands of separate board layers or the mechanically traced circles, the whole thing is a revelation to me. Thanks for contributing to my passion of catching up on all the cool vids I'd missed out on! Cheers from Canada! (--> No tariffs on good ideas! lol)
I have used almost all of yours methods except for punch tool& drilling islands. But Manhattan style is one of my favorites for RF circuits, I have a MW radio and 91MHz FM transmitter built this way
Alan, Your tutorials are awesome and I always learn something! Thank you for providing this great learning opportunity. Happy New Year and all the best in 2014. Vy 73, Mack W4AX
I've used tin shield plates from TV tuner cans or other RF shields to construct circuits on, using the shield as a ground or common and sky wire the leads of components
To make these Islands, i like this style construction. A 1/8 to 1/4 stainless steel tubing with some Micro Teeth filed onto the end will work just fine in a drill press. I enjoy watching this video.
Thank you for this video. Always looking for different ideas. I've been using scrap plexy glass with hobby brass and copper stripping. I hope all is going well 73!
The pinboard show in 1:05 is quick ,BUT be very careful because connecting a 1% (ONE PERCENT ) 68ohm resistor will OFTEN cause that resistor to appear as 70 , 71 ohm resistor due to interconects of a pin board.
Wow! Your workbench looks like mine. Full of "stuff" but your array of test equipment is far better than mine. Oscillator is what I'm looking for-- the purpose being testing crystals.
Thanks! Very nice video. I found that these prototyping methods work fine up to 200MHz with some care. When I wanted to prototype circuit at 900MHz and 2.4GHz I had to try something else - I started with gluing self adhesive copper foil to single sided FR4 or PTFE board substrate like Rogers 3004. It works pretty good and reworking/adjusting microstrip components with foil is easy too. I am nowhere an expert in using this method so I am wondering if anyone else tried it? How do you prototype something at 2GHz+?
Your techniques for UHF and microwave prototyping are good. Especially at 1-2GHz and above, controlled impedance traces, impedance matching, etc. are very important, as well as the use off low loss substrates.
there is also ratsnest construction using 1M resistors or Bypass Caps as standoffs to hold components up off the ground plane.......done that a few times.......and of course routing PCB material with an CNC engraver to make what is similar to etching normal boards etc....
@w2aew. Thank you for sharing. I really like watching your videos. Keeps me motivated and focused in this noisy world we live now. On another note, It would be nice if you could do a video about ground planes and why they are important in high speed circuits.
+Zinahe Asnake I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to uncover introduction to electronics tutorials try Ichordo Electronics Expert Fixer (just google it ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my partner got amazing results with it.
When using the solder pads from QRPME, the glue sometimes breaks down under solder temperatures. Can you recommend a glue and a solder temp for 63/37 Pb/Sn solder.
Thanks Alan. For a future video, could you discuss considerations when-to-use and when-not-to-use sockets for components? I sometimes worry about directly soldering component leads due to heating, but of course the socket introduces problems like parasitics and intermittent connections, etc. Some IC's are so cheap it doesn't matter, but I don't want to ruin, say, an AD8307 or other fairly expensive IC while soldering it. Also sockets help if you want to exchange different types of components later.
You really covered most of it in your comment! If you have a good soldering iron, and are proficient (meaning that you don't have to apply the iron for an excessive period of time), it is unlikely that you'll damage a part. If you think that there might be a reason to re-work, modify, change the design, then a socket is a good idea so that the part isn't exposed to a lot of re-heating. Of course, if is a part you want to re-use, or maybe change to a different part as an experiment, then a socket is a good idea. If you need the highest speed, fastest risetime, etc., then avoid the socket if you can.
Hey everyone, the best success that I have ever had was with the Gregs Electro Blog (i found it on google) without a doubt the most incredible course that I have ever tried.
Hi, does wiring them all up direct like that not get extremely finicky? With the proto board with holes in? With wires overlapping each other and so much solder? It looks like hell to be honest! Printing and etching has to be easier? I love the little PCB island bits though.
Each technique has its advantages and disadvantages. There's really nothing finicky about direct wiring. In fact, you can often create higher performance circuits this way by having better control over parasitics. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder - to me, these hand-built prototypes are beautiful.
Could you slide a copper ground plane under the proto type breadboard? That was a thought I just had was possibly sliding a copper board under the breadboard and using it as a ground plane.
You can. It will help a little to lower the ground impedance. This will also increase the capacitance of every node to ground (which usually is a bad thing, but can be advantageous in some circuits). Of course, this won't help reduce the inductance if the interconnects.
Cutting islands into copper. I've never tried, but you can buy ten different sizes of diamond cutters on Amazon. Sounds way better than grinding a drill bit. And cheaper too probably.
Hi,I am new to prototyping and wondering how to hold a TP4056 li-ion battery charger module and DC-DC booster alongwith battery together--can these modules be glued/soldered ,how does one put this into a project box? I was thinking of directly attaching modules to project box wall if possible using glue OR can we attach them to veroboard?
If you're using the modules that I'm thinking of (and why don't they ever seem to have any provisions for mounting?) double-faced tape works well for me. I've got a few LED lights I've put together using a module mounted that way, a 10W LED mounted with a couple of small screws, and a DC input connector glued to a scrap of aluminum.
Thank you! I've already tried a couple of audio amps with point to point wiring: facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=281874242204104&id=100011445901156&pnref=story facebook.com/profile.php?id=100011445901156&sk=photos&collection_token=100011445901156%3A2305272732%3A69&set=a.218324278559101.1073741880.100011445901156&type=3&pnref=story but would like to do it with the Manhattan technique. I'm not sure if the big ground plane will affect sound quality because of capacitance. Done a small Joule Thief some time ago to try the method and tools. It's not a problematic circuit and not that difficult to do the islands. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100011445901156&sk=photos&collection_token=100011445901156%3A2305272732%3A69&set=a.182294255495437.1073741865.100011445901156&type=3 With your professional opinion I'll give it a go with audio amp, Thank you very much!
Hi Alan Those strips of sockets that you use in your pcb boards to plug components in. what would they be called.I am placing an order with Digikey and can't seem to find them. Thx
Can you make islands from double sided copper clad ? Or only single sided ? Can u punch islands in double sided copper clad and just scrape off the copper from one side or you don't need to do that to put the island on the copper clad? Thx in advance
Ok thanks for all your fast answers ! Love your videos ! I think I won't buy an expensive steel punch like you did but i'll just cut square bits with a manual hand sheet metal shears.
If you glue isolated island on a plane of copper (which is ground) isn't that creating some sort of capacitance? Is that something you should consider during prototyping?
It's a great question. These little islands will typically be a few pF of capacitance to ground. You should think about that for any circuit nodes where that would be an issue. For these nodes, simply wire them in "air".
@@w2aew I detected no voltage of the inverter output before the transformer but it shocked me so then is power there I just can not read it by a voltmeter. Any ideas what might be the cause?
@@xierxu I have no idea what circuit you're working on or how you're measuring it. If you received a shock, and you're not getting any measurements, then you may need to step back and learn a few more basics before you hurt yourself.
Hey why u never covered the isolated islands made with a hook knife used in scoring fibresheet also called acrilic sheet cutter hook knife. By far I am successful in creating isolated islands in a clad board.
Hey, please show how to solder copper clad, because my iron just cannot put solder on the copper clad. Also the copper clad gets dirty, how to clean it? Thx in advance
The copper must be clean before you can solder to it. It can be cleaned using steel wool or a "scotch brite" pad, or even some 600 grit sandpaper. You'll need an iron that can provide enough heat - best to use a temperature controlled iron.
I bought 600 grit sandpaper and sanded the surface, but sadly i touched the copper before with my fingers. Can sandpaper remove fingerprint marks (i suppose its grease) or should I use some kind of acid like vinegar and salt ? I will now take latex gloves when manipulating copper clad. Thanks in advance.
Do you have any links to info on things like wrapping wire around those ferrite cores, for the purpose of making chokes and maybe even a few little audio isolation transformers? I’m sure a quick search would yield some online tables for sources of this sort of math. Perhaps in your previous endeavors you have encountered some free software, or an online applet which are of particular interest to you? Edit: I can see that you yourself have a great wealth of very helpful videos, +1 subscriber. I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR STYLE!! You have a very interesting aesthetic, and I’m glad I didn’t just cut off your video because you really have a lot of great work for me to even brag to other people about!! THANKS FOR SHARING!
I have a video that shows how to wind a toroid: th-cam.com/video/sDIWNHOoNh8/w-d-xo.html There are online calculators for determining the number of turns, etc. One easy one is Toroids.info I've also used this mini-ring toroid calculator: mini-ring-core-calculator.software.informer.com/
I'm trying to build a new front end board for my Yaesu FT101 but in trying to do the layout, cannot find softwear that will do the .156 edge connector layout. Any suggestions? Ted VE6AMR
I am not familiar with the variety of PCB design tools and their limitations. My first suggestions would be either KiCAD or Eagle. I would think you'd be able to to a custom part or even layout the traces manually. But, I don't know enough about these tools to know if they have some limitation in this regard.
ebear1ca I took a look at the KiCAD documentation and though it seems finer at .010 mil in fine mode it will not allow for .156 spacing for the edge connector. I need a program that will allow either .001 mill grid or fraction of a grid capability. Yes I have thought of changing the edge connector to another spacing but rewiring it on the main chassis would be a night mare. Ted VE6AMR
ebear1ca Ted - I asked my friend Chris Gammell about this. He's got an online course about circuit design and printed circuit design using KiCAD. He actually wrote a blog about this topic! Here's the link: contextualelectronics.com/what-about-when-you-need-a-wonky-spacing/
Hi , in most of your circuits you are using large portion of the copper clad board as the ground connection. Any reason for doing that ? Does it improve performance of the circuit ?
In many cases, yes. Most of the voltages in a circuit are referenced to ground. Having a large ground plane provides a convenient and low-impedance ground reference. For RF circuits, it enhances shielding and provides a low impedance return path for high speed currents.
Very cool " just had to sub , because i love this kind of thing even though im a complete Noob, ya gotta start somewhere and i like your style , regards from shores of the south pacific Islands of New Zealand B-b
Great video as always, thank for showing us that there is many ways to skin a cat. Lol. Great to see how you make things so easy and simple. Merry x mas.
Great coverage of commonly-used techniques - showing how practical circuits were built is very educational for new builders. Also, having seen Dave AA7EE's circuits in person, I agree: he is an artist! I hope to someday match his patience and forethought in building.
Thanks Rob. I'm sure Dave's creations are even more impressive in person!
cheese en field. like a band of brothers.
I am extremely impressed with the variety of inexpensive ways to create a circuit board. I struggle with etching a board and it is messy and time consuming and mistake-prone -- at least for me since I am an electronics idiot. I will try several of your techniques. THANKS!! GREAT Video.
As newcomer to electronics, amateur radio and construction, this video was informative and inspiring...as your videos often are. Thank-you.
I built a small copper clad board when I worked for IBM in the late 80s that used an HP step recovery diode that was used in a TDR in a high end HP oscilloscope (HP54120T) (the diode could only be bought by those who owned the scope and so may have needed it for repair) and the board could generate a 50 ps pulse with an amplitude of 5 volts. Needless to say it needed to have a very strict 50 ohm impedance throughout with minimal impedance discontinuities. It used rigid coax and sma connectors.
Thank you. Just a reminder of the various ways to do 1-off builds is helpful when I'm considering what technique to use on a project.
In a pinch, I have used 1/32" RC airplane plywood as "circuit board" and as "islands" and used combinations of the methods you show. Also, various widths of the adhesive backed copper foil tapes used in stained glass work can be employed in lots of creative ways. Great video!
Thank you W2aew, you are a master at this. For those of us who have a drill press, time and interest, as you pointed out, we can make any number of circle cutting bits that cut to any depth, from scoring on to complete perforation, by serration of the end of various diameter steel tubes as Davies by the Sea points out, I think he used a tubular bearing out of an old video cassette. A diamond cutting tool is far superior in this application, of course, because the fiberglass in pcb dulls any plain steel tubular bit very quickly. Still, in a pinch one will improvise with whatever one has at hand.
Your channel is what I ve been searching for. Im glad you are very straight forward with your videos. Alot of people on youtube try to act funny and goofy or put on a show to much and its annoying or just plan sad and the subject matter then suffers
I appreciate your professional radio insight. Thanks for your time.
Love the dead-bug construction. I'm pretty new to electronics and have done it with a dremel before, but cutting out those little islands with a hole-saw is a great idea! There's likely to be a very similar and far more affordable diamond impregnated hole-saw in your local hardware or tool store though. They'll be in with the masonry bits, because they're intended for tiles.
Great idea regarding the diamond hole saws for ceramic tiles! I wonder if they're available in such a small diameter.
I work in a tool shop here in Australia and our supplier makes them as small as 6mm outer diameter. Don't know the exact inner diameter, but the cutting edge is =/< 1mm. They're an Australian manufacturer, but I have no doubts a similar product would be available in most developed countries.
Tin snips! That's how. I've been making all sorts of bad edges trying to working with copper clad board. I bought some snips today, and its EASY! Thank you so much.
~4 years later, and it's still a great video. Thanks.
Something to mention, that may or may not have been prevalent when you made this video, that I just discovered recently is that you can get professional PCB with your design done VERY cheap these days. I won't point to a specific one so that it doesn't look like I'm plugging anything, but $2 or so will get you ~5 boards in the 10cm x 10cm single sided range and some of the more popular pcb design applications spit out exactly what they need to build them. Of course the methods that you show here are still great at-hand solutions when an idea hits you or when you want to test something. Just wanted to put it out here for anyone else who may not be aware. I was actually researching small CNC machines when I discovered how cheap it has gotten to have them done professionally.
It really is amazing how companies like OSHPark (and many more) have made small-run PCB production very affordable - years ago it would have cost hundreds or thousands to get a small run fabricated.
Making RF circuits are art on its own. Thanks for sharing!
this wonderful. thank you very much for taking the time. I'd think one can get the small diamond holesaw for granite, to cut islands. found at most hardware store, shop local.
Excellent. I like your descriptions and the pace of delivery. Subscribed.
Thank you Alan for sharing this, especially QRPme and others, great techniques!
+saturn5tony There are many factors in studying electronics. One resource I found which succeeds in merging these is the Gregs Electro Blog (google it if you're interested) definately the best info that I have ever seen. look at this amazing site.
+Amela Alic - Na these electronics youtubes and A2AEW are fine, I dont need another door stop thick textbook(s)! lol
Thanks Alan you have successfully delayed my 700 km road trip by another 25 minutes:)
Well, you really weren't looking forward to that much windshield time, now were you?
@@w2aew Depends on the car ;)
@ That's entirely true! If you don't back at your car after your park it, you're driving the wrong car.
Nice vid!
I've been tinkering off and on with electronics since the 70s (the 60s if you count taking stuff apart without it ever working again!) and I just learned about Manhattan style circuit construction yesterday! It blew my mind! Of course I'd done point to point, and I'd seen the Dead Bug trick without knowing there was a name for it, but I had never seen the island style. Whether it be the raised islands of separate board layers or the mechanically traced circles, the whole thing is a revelation to me.
Thanks for contributing to my passion of catching up on all the cool vids I'd missed out on!
Cheers from Canada! (--> No tariffs on good ideas! lol)
I have used almost all of yours methods except for punch tool& drilling islands. But Manhattan style is one of my favorites for RF circuits, I have a MW radio and 91MHz FM transmitter built this way
Alan,
Your tutorials are awesome and I always learn something! Thank you for providing this great learning opportunity. Happy New Year and all the best in 2014. Vy 73, Mack W4AX
I'm rather surprised you didn't demonstrate wire wrap; but I'm very glad you did demonstrate some methods new to me.
So nice the world's best teacher
I like the punched isolated islands techniques, very practical. Thanks again for such a nice video.
Don’t forget Harwin track pins - push fit then solder - to connect through a copper clad board instead of PTH
Use to connect ground planes etc
I tried several types of protoboards for
I've used tin shield plates from TV tuner cans or other RF shields to construct circuits on, using the shield as a ground or common and sky wire the leads of components
Nice idea!
The old days , lots of circuits were built “sky wire”in tobacco tins!
To make these Islands, i like this style construction. A 1/8 to 1/4 stainless steel tubing with some Micro Teeth filed onto the end will work just fine in a drill press. I enjoy watching this video.
Good tip!
Thank you for this video. Always looking for different ideas. I've been using scrap plexy glass with hobby brass and copper stripping. I hope all is going well 73!
The pinboard show in 1:05 is quick ,BUT be very careful because connecting a 1% (ONE PERCENT ) 68ohm resistor will OFTEN cause that resistor to appear as 70 , 71 ohm resistor due to interconects of a pin board.
That Island bit is genius. I'm going to go make one now.
Your videos are always great and this one is no exception to the rule. Thanks for taking the time and effort.
The part that I most enjoy is designing my PCBs layout and etching it.
I find your videos very practical and thoroughly enjoyable. Tremendously valuable. Thank you.
Hi Alan
Your videos never cease to be engaging and informative
Well done
wow. I have a hard enough time soldering surface mount components to a flat surface... and you go and do them up skywire...
Great Tip on the QRPme link, great little set of items, thanks!
Dremel Engraving Bits work well for clearing copper away.
Good technique, probably better than a pcb for some circuits. Some nice work there..Thank you for the video..
For making the islands using the drill press, if you search glass drill bit on eBay, will find hollowed bits to make those islands as well.
Excellent tip - thank you!
Wow! Your workbench looks like mine. Full of "stuff" but your array of test equipment is far better than mine. Oscillator is what I'm looking for-- the purpose being testing crystals.
Thanks! Very nice video. I found that these prototyping methods work fine up to 200MHz with some care. When I wanted to prototype circuit at 900MHz and 2.4GHz I had to try something else - I started with gluing self adhesive copper foil to single sided FR4 or PTFE board substrate like Rogers 3004. It works pretty good and reworking/adjusting microstrip components with foil is easy too. I am nowhere an expert in using this method so I am wondering if anyone else tried it? How do you prototype something at 2GHz+?
Your techniques for UHF and microwave prototyping are good. Especially at 1-2GHz and above, controlled impedance traces, impedance matching, etc. are very important, as well as the use off low loss substrates.
there is also ratsnest construction using 1M resistors or Bypass Caps as standoffs to hold components up off the ground plane.......done that a few times.......and of course routing PCB material with an CNC engraver to make what is similar to etching normal boards etc....
@w2aew. Thank you for sharing. I really like watching your videos. Keeps me motivated and focused in this noisy world we live now. On another note, It would be nice if you could do a video about ground planes and why they are important in high speed circuits.
I'll add that to my long list...
***** a Ground Loop also :D
+Zinahe Asnake I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to uncover introduction to electronics tutorials try Ichordo Electronics Expert Fixer (just google it ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my partner got amazing results with it.
This another great video! Never knew it was called Manhattan construction...
nice video and very inspiring for makers and also artists
When using the solder pads from QRPME, the glue sometimes breaks down under solder temperatures. Can you recommend a glue and a solder temp for 63/37 Pb/Sn solder.
Did I spot a Plessey minibox cap on one of those boards?
This is really neat! Thanks for uploading it!
QRP ME has apparently disappeared from the internet. Any suggestions for a similar alternative? Great Video!
Thanks Alan. For a future video, could you discuss considerations when-to-use and when-not-to-use sockets for components? I sometimes worry about directly soldering component leads due to heating, but of course the socket introduces problems like parasitics and intermittent connections, etc. Some IC's are so cheap it doesn't matter, but I don't want to ruin, say, an AD8307 or other fairly expensive IC while soldering it. Also sockets help if you want to exchange different types of components later.
You really covered most of it in your comment! If you have a good soldering iron, and are proficient (meaning that you don't have to apply the iron for an excessive period of time), it is unlikely that you'll damage a part. If you think that there might be a reason to re-work, modify, change the design, then a socket is a good idea so that the part isn't exposed to a lot of re-heating. Of course, if is a part you want to re-use, or maybe change to a different part as an experiment, then a socket is a good idea. If you need the highest speed, fastest risetime, etc., then avoid the socket if you can.
A dremel and a small engraving bit also works well for making circuit boards if it's simple enough that you don't need to etch it.
That's a good method too. I've even used a dremel and a cutting wheel to cut a grid pattern to create isolated pads.
Cool
Hey everyone, the best success that I have ever had was with the Gregs Electro Blog (i found it on google) without a doubt the most incredible course that I have ever tried.
Hi, does wiring them all up direct like that not get extremely finicky? With the proto board with holes in? With wires overlapping each other and so much solder? It looks like hell to be honest!
Printing and etching has to be easier?
I love the little PCB island bits though.
Each technique has its advantages and disadvantages. There's really nothing finicky about direct wiring. In fact, you can often create higher performance circuits this way by having better control over parasitics. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder - to me, these hand-built prototypes are beautiful.
Nice stuff. Ever do any freeform stuff, like LED cubes?
Not too often. I once built a mic preamp that way.
Very nice work! clean and efficient. thanks for info.
Beautiful job!
Could you slide a copper ground plane under the proto type breadboard? That was a thought I just had was possibly sliding a copper board under the breadboard and using it as a ground plane.
You can. It will help a little to lower the ground impedance. This will also increase the capacitance of every node to ground (which usually is a bad thing, but can be advantageous in some circuits). Of course, this won't help reduce the inductance if the interconnects.
👍 Good video, some interesting info and ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Good job Alan…will send a note to our club reflector recommending they watch.
Cutting islands into copper. I've never tried, but you can buy ten different sizes of diamond cutters on Amazon. Sounds way better than grinding a drill bit. And cheaper too probably.
They should work great
Very informative, thanks! Helps a lot
I’m running real low on those vector boards. They are very nice. Mine are blue and gold.
I really enjoyed this
cool stuff. I've been wondering HOW u work with those copper clads!! Thanks for sharing.
Perfect video and electronic materials !! I mourn I don't live in USA!!!!
fantastic learn t some great ideas from your video thumbs up from a beginner.
Hi,I am new to prototyping and wondering how to hold a TP4056 li-ion battery charger module and DC-DC booster alongwith battery together--can these modules be glued/soldered ,how does one put this into a project box?
I was thinking of directly attaching modules to project box wall if possible using glue OR can we attach them to veroboard?
If you're using the modules that I'm thinking of (and why don't they ever seem to have any provisions for mounting?) double-faced tape works well for me. I've got a few LED lights I've put together using a module mounted that way, a 10W LED mounted with a couple of small screws, and a DC input connector glued to a scrap of aluminum.
Very informative!
Is the Manhattan style technique apropriate for small amplification audio circuits, like LM386, TDA7245, LM1036, etc.?
Thank You
Yes, that would work quite well. You still have to be careful about heatsinking for the more powerful amplifier devices.
Thank you!
I've already tried a couple of audio amps with point to point wiring:
facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=281874242204104&id=100011445901156&pnref=story
facebook.com/profile.php?id=100011445901156&sk=photos&collection_token=100011445901156%3A2305272732%3A69&set=a.218324278559101.1073741880.100011445901156&type=3&pnref=story
but would like to do it with the Manhattan technique. I'm not sure if the big ground plane will affect sound quality because of capacitance.
Done a small Joule Thief some time ago to try the method and tools. It's not a problematic circuit and not that difficult to do the islands.
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With your professional opinion I'll give it a go with audio amp, Thank you very much!
Hi Alan
Those strips of sockets that you use in your pcb boards to plug components in. what would they be called.I am placing an order with Digikey and can't seem to find them.
Thx
I think you mean these SIP socket strips:
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2-1437530-8/A104980-ND/2299961
Can you make islands from double sided copper clad ? Or only single sided ? Can u punch islands in double sided copper clad and just scrape off the copper from one side or you don't need to do that to put the island on the copper clad? Thx in advance
Yes, you can use double sided.
won't double sided make kind of capacitor ?
Exactly the same as gluing down an island onto a ground plane.
Ok thanks for all your fast answers ! Love your videos ! I think I won't buy an expensive steel punch like you did but i'll just cut square bits with a manual hand sheet metal shears.
Solid video, W2AEW, thank you for sharing!
If you glue isolated island on a plane of copper (which is ground) isn't that creating some sort of capacitance? Is that something you should consider during prototyping?
It's a great question. These little islands will typically be a few pF of capacitance to ground. You should think about that for any circuit nodes where that would be an issue. For these nodes, simply wire them in "air".
Why when I put the secondary of a step-down transformer it doesn't step-up the voltage? Send help!!
A lot depends on the impedances involved....
@@w2aew I detected no voltage of the inverter output before the transformer but it shocked me so then is power there I just can not read it by a voltmeter. Any ideas what might be the cause?
@@xierxu I have no idea what circuit you're working on or how you're measuring it. If you received a shock, and you're not getting any measurements, then you may need to step back and learn a few more basics before you hurt yourself.
@@w2aew Dead mosfet. Circuit acting as a buck boost. Sending voltage of the same potential on both legs like an antenna.
Hey why u never covered the isolated islands made with a hook knife used in scoring fibresheet also called acrilic sheet cutter hook knife. By far I am successful in creating isolated islands in a clad board.
I never used one of them, but it looks like it would work well.
Very informative!!
Can you please make an video on how to make PCB shematics?
Hey, please show how to solder copper clad, because my iron just cannot put solder on the copper clad. Also the copper clad gets dirty, how to clean it? Thx in advance
The copper must be clean before you can solder to it. It can be cleaned using steel wool or a "scotch brite" pad, or even some 600 grit sandpaper. You'll need an iron that can provide enough heat - best to use a temperature controlled iron.
Shouldn't i use flux also ? or its not necessary ? Thanks a lot in advance and thanks for the fast answers !
Yes, but it is usually included in the solder (rosin core). No harm is using more though.
I bought 600 grit sandpaper and sanded the surface, but sadly i touched the copper before with my fingers. Can sandpaper remove fingerprint marks (i suppose its grease) or should I use some kind of acid like vinegar and salt ? I will now take latex gloves when manipulating copper clad. Thanks in advance.
And also what temperature is needed for soldering components / sma connector to copper ?
Do you have any links to info on things like wrapping wire around those ferrite cores, for the purpose of making chokes and maybe even a few little audio isolation transformers? I’m sure a quick search would yield some online tables for sources of this sort of math. Perhaps in your previous endeavors you have encountered some free software, or an online applet which are of particular interest to you? Edit: I can see that you yourself have a great wealth of very helpful videos, +1 subscriber. I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR STYLE!! You have a very interesting aesthetic, and I’m glad I didn’t just cut off your video because you really have a lot of great work for me to even brag to other people about!! THANKS FOR SHARING!
I have a video that shows how to wind a toroid: th-cam.com/video/sDIWNHOoNh8/w-d-xo.html
There are online calculators for determining the number of turns, etc. One easy one is Toroids.info
I've also used this mini-ring toroid calculator: mini-ring-core-calculator.software.informer.com/
Hi W2AEW, where can i get that ISLAND PCB Drill bit ,can i search in Amazon or elsewhere ?
Look for Diamond Coated Hole Saw drill bits for glass, ceramic, porcelain.
@@w2aew thank you
I'm trying to build a new front end board for my Yaesu FT101 but in trying to do the layout, cannot find softwear that will do the .156 edge connector layout. Any suggestions?
Ted VE6AMR
I am not familiar with the variety of PCB design tools and their limitations. My first suggestions would be either KiCAD or Eagle. I would think you'd be able to to a custom part or even layout the traces manually. But, I don't know enough about these tools to know if they have some limitation in this regard.
Well I have tried Eagle with no success but will investigate KiCad. Thanks Ted VE6AMR
ebear1ca
I took a look at the KiCAD documentation and though it seems finer at .010 mil in fine mode it will not allow for .156 spacing for the edge connector. I need a program that will allow either .001 mill grid or fraction of a grid capability. Yes I have thought of changing the edge connector to another spacing but rewiring it on the main chassis would be a night mare. Ted VE6AMR
ebear1ca Ted - I asked my friend Chris Gammell about this. He's got an online course about circuit design and printed circuit design using KiCAD. He actually wrote a blog about this topic! Here's the link:
contextualelectronics.com/what-about-when-you-need-a-wonky-spacing/
Thanks I will check it out. Ted VE6AMR
Hi , in most of your circuits you are using large portion of the copper clad board as the ground connection. Any reason for doing that ? Does it improve performance of the circuit ?
In many cases, yes. Most of the voltages in a circuit are referenced to ground. Having a large ground plane provides a convenient and low-impedance ground reference. For RF circuits, it enhances shielding and provides a low impedance return path for high speed currents.
Thank you :)
Excellent demo! Thanks! 73, John/N6VTS
how do you make your boards full of copper?
They're purchased that way.
@@w2aew i see, so the process should be alike the one for making pcbs right?
Very cool " just had to sub , because i love this kind of thing even though im a complete Noob, ya gotta start somewhere and i like your style , regards from shores of the south pacific Islands of New Zealand B-b
Just like the good n old times
👍😆
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
you are an artist too
Inspiring. Great video as always.
what are you using to keep your boards from oxidizing???
Love your videos, keep em coming!
Hi Alan... And thanks for all exelent videos ! (thumbe up)
Very inspiring, thanks.
Thank you, Oona! I'm glad you liked it!
Nice overview. Thanks.
That was excellent, very useful, thank you
Great video as always, thank for showing us that there is many ways to skin a cat. Lol. Great to see how you make things so easy and simple. Merry x mas.
Very good. Thank you for your video.
Great tips, nice work
Tks
73
Hi, what name this plier pad maker tool and where can buy it? Thanks.
It is a metal hole punch, like this:
www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-21050-Metal-Puncher/dp/B00OM4GVX0
Thanks friend. :)
Impressive. Thanks for inspiration.
Thanks for you 73 from baghdad deYi1hxh
I thought you would show some techniques where no traditional PCB is used, and is instead replaced by some piece of plastic or something..
Hi Alan, love your videos, can you explain high speed ground plane? Thanks in advance
Great ideas ! Good video !
Very nice video.
Thanks for the tips.
73.
PU2CLR.
Ricardo.