Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!! I was going down this rabbit hole of adding salt with no change. Found your video and followed your steps and now we are back in business!!
Thanks this works, you just have to kill the power to make it stop, doesnt matter if the timer or unit is on, as long as its plugged into the power it works, so make sure you pump filter stays on while its pluged to power.
Thanks for the video, you just saved me about 500 bucks. I had this issue with that unit a few years ago and bought the upgraded replacement model last year, now having the same problem with that one. Pulled my old unit out of the box that I held on to, rewired it hooked it up and it’s good to go.
I just tried this and it seems to work. I’ll be splicing the cord and adding new ends on so that I can plug it into a timer. However you figured out this hack, I’m grateful for it.
Good job. Your explanation and imagery was perfect. The only exciting moment I experienced in doing this to my own SWG was the Black Widow that had decided to take up residence underneath the unit.
Thank you very much for the solution to the problem. I used the vinegar as others indicated but it did not work in my case. I decided to use your method on an Intex machine but on another model, actually, electronically they are the same circuits that you describe and the color of the wires and the position are identical. When connecting the machine to the current I see that it produces chlorine, even if it is turned off and in reality what interested me is the production of chlorine, nothing else. Thank you very much it works great.
This fix worked for us, and had a new replacement power box, thanks so much for helping us get the problem fixed, system now running, making chlorine, timer and boost working like a charm.
Thank you for the info. I had been cleaning the cells in white vinegar and putting die electric on the fittings to the cells. Still getting low salt even though my salt meter showed 3200 ppm. About ready to buy a new cell at about $100. You have really saved me with your video.
First of all, thanks for the video. I have a CS7110 chlorinator from intex but the wiring seems the same. rewired per your vidoe, plugged back in and still get a "low salt" indicator light. Any other suggestions?
The low salt indication still beeps but it's making chlorine in sleep mode. Thank you. Think I will just bypass both modules and wire them directly together. Thanks again.... with all the shortages going on with pool supplies at least we're making chlorine. 😎
Thanks for the great vid. Mine just started throwing the Low Salt code a couple days ago. I did what we all do - added more salt. Next cycle, it did the same thing. Then I tested the salt level - lots of salt. I recently cleaned the plates, so I knew it wasn't that. Tore it apart and found the exact same issue as yours. The contact points were rusted/corroded. I was able to remove them, cleaned up everything to bare metal, applied dielectric grease to all plugs and spade connectors. That should help prevent future corrosion. Reinstalled it and it works geat again. Just a note for anyone who hasn't ever opened their unit - they are NOT air/water tight. Mine had alot of dirt, etc inside the cover. Keep that in mind if you leave your out in the weather. I'll be building an enclosure for mine now to keep it dry.
I did the exact same thing, it had been running fine (no code 91) with levels all looking good. Came out today to find it in sleep mode, due to a code 91 with the terminals bypassed, now we are completely stumped! any one have any ideas?
Great video. I tried this and it continued producing chlorine but it was at a low rate. One thing to realize is that your chlorinator part only has a life span of about 3 years so your 91 error might be caused by this. Replacement parts for Intex are about $45. I replace mine and it was like night and day the difference in chlorine production. No 91 error code either when I required the unit back to its original state. No need for a full replacement. Just plug and play the new part.
I have the newer version and I’m getting code 91, do I need to replace both salt electrodes or just one? I see a price of $31 at intex, but they have a second for $120. Mine has two.
Switching the polarity on plates every season helps with hard water deposits. Turn unit off. Unscrew retaining rings on both sides. Rotate connectors 180°. Screw retaining rings back down. (They're designed for this. Why Intex doesn't put in manual is beyond me.)
Rotate connectors on each side? I saw another video, and they rotated the connector on the large plate side. I did that, it worked for a while, but shut off again with code 91. 🤦♂️
Thanks for posting this! It works great. As someone mentioned earlier, as long as the chlorinator is plugged in, it will generate chlorine. You actually don't have to press the ON button of the chlorinator. If your unit is beeping, just turn if off, as it will still be making chlorine. You can no longer use the timer on the display, but it's something I can live with to have a functioning chlorinator without those useless 'low salt' errors. Also, if your unit has a GFCI built into the plug, make sure you press the RESET button on it once you plug it in to make the chlorinator work. I'm actually using the TEST/RESET buttons as ON/OFF buttons. Another thing: the 'bubbles' of the generated chlorine that someone mentioned earlier, actually looks like 'smoke' on my unit as it is coming off the electrodes, so look for that to verify that there is actually chorine being generated.
This part of the explanation totally went over my head until I read this!! Thank you!! You DONT have to turn the salt water generator on! It produces chlorine anyway!
I also still get the low salt light and beep when I power on the unit. However it appears to be working with the unit in the off position. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. My generator still says low salt so I must have another problem. I connected the leads from 12 battery charger on a timer to my generator and it works that way. Though I have no power going to the copper anode and cathode, less green hair from swimming in the pool now. The positive and negative connections to the unit make no difference as the plug on the back can be flipped to either orientation. Any other ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I prefer the automatic setting of the device.
Thank you for your video! At first I was disappointed thinking it hadn't worked because the low salt light came on. After looking through the comments, I realized that it was not that uncommon, and that the unit was still producing chlorine. Hooray! Concerning somebody's comment on wondering if the unit still produces chlorine on FP; it appears that it does. Someone else asked how do you tell that is producing chlorine there are little bubbles flowing around the electrode (I think that's what you would call it.?) Thanks again; I have been fighting this battle all summer. I didn't think to check the salt level, but I purchased test strips, and found out that our salt level was higher than it really should be.
Yes it seems to me that these electronics only last 1 season, 2 if you are lucky. This season I stopped using saltwater. I am having issues with the pump now so I am working to figure those out...
I tried your suggestion on two Intex Salt Water systems and it did not eliminate the Low Salt error on either system. I removed the connections on the top two posts (white and black wires) and connected them to the posts below them. I have Black/White on the top psot and Red/Black on the bottom post. I still get Low Salt error 91. What am I doing wrong?
I had the low salt error but my salt is 3600. Intex sent me a new control unit under warranty but after running a while it did it again. I bypassed on the old unit and it’s working so far.
Low salt water light still comes on but it seems to be producing chlorine. Hopefully it gets through this season and maybe the prices will start coming down. Had it for 5 years, clean it regularly, first time it quit working .
Mr. Hendershot, even with the alarm bypassed, it still gives the code and puts itself into sleep mode. Is there a way to make it constantly produce chlorine and not go into sleep mode? Thanks
muchas gracias por la aportacion ,ahora me podras dicer como interpreto la lectura del medidor de sal me salio 580 ppm en una picina deredonda de 3500 galones la medida es 14 pies por 42 pulgas intex . ta agradeceria tu comentario saludos
Very helpful but had additional questions….Once I bypass the low salt warning, Do I have to manually go out every day and turn the pump on/off or does the pump timer continue to work (simultaneously producing chlorine)? If an external timer is necessary to avoid manual on/off then please advise on process…I am not electrically savy on my own but can figure it out with direction. Thanks.
Matthew, after the fix, I’m still getting the error code like many others, but I’m not sure how to tell if my system is making chlorine. Can you offer me any help?
Salut j’ai ce que tu conseil sur le nouveau modèle ça fonctionne très bien même si ce n’est pas la même couleur de fils . Ma question est est-ce qu’on peut se servir encore du panneau de contrôle ou ça sert à rien vue que le contrôleur de chlore fonctionne tout le temps ? Merci
I have a summer waves salt water system that is doing the same thing, do you have any experience with these. Wonder if I could do the same to fix mine?
I have bought like 4 systems for this exact reason. The last one cast me close to $600 because of covid shortages and that one just started giving me the code only after 1.4 years. But I'm all reality like 7 months of use.
segun mi picina llava 3.5 bolsas de sal de 40 libras y creo que es suficiente como mi salinador me marcaba codigo 91 pues no creo que sea necesario mas sal disculpa que te escriba en spanish please
Gave it a shot since I have nothing to lose. 10 minutes, and is working. It still alarms and says low salt but it continues running. Goes to sleep mode but continues generating chlorine, or at least a lot of tiny bubbles. Is this how yours works also?
Safe to run full 12v to the cell? Mine shows just under 5v to the cell when its all hooked up right. Moving the cell wires to the power coming to the board puts 12v to the cell. Safe to run like that? I put the system on a timer to turn it on and off
@@MastaShredduh my thought is theres a reason voltage to the cell is only 5 volts. Another thought. The cooling fan wont run unless the system is running right. Seems like it will fry the system.over volting one part and over heating others
y unit looks the same as yours,however ,when l open it up, it has 6 wires. The top two is blue then brown and says next to them WAR, then there is another two ,which is blue and brown, then black and red lower down. So i think l should not take a risk, also the blue and brown wires at the top are push on connecters,so l would need to cut them.hmmm??
Thank you for the video, have a couple thoughts/questions. 1 when I turn it back on should I only have it in filter mode. If it is chlorinate mode I still get the error. 2 if using the built in timer will the salt cell turn off when the cycle stops or should I set it up on an external timer.
You did this video a year too late. 😂. I had to get a new unit in 2019 because of service system light and now my new unit has a code 91. Did your wiring to my old unit that had service system. That one is now making chlorine but has no timer or boost but that’s fine. I will do the wiring to the new unit giving me low chlorine. Perhaps that will give me timer and boost. Thank you for your video because as of late it seems like everything is breaking. Blessing to you.
One solution, after doing this, I have noticed the system makes chlorine no matter if the system is off or on as long as it has power - (plugged in) its making chlorine. I simply turned it off and its still makes chlorine, to get rid of the beeping 91 code. I have programmed my pumped and chlorinator to run 12 hours and my Acid and Chlorine levels are perfect. If your chlorine levels get high- just unplug the system. Its a chore buts its worth it and not having to buy a new system. Just remember to clean your cells with vinegar every month. and you all should be good to go.
I jumped the wires as shown (they werent corroded at all) to fix the timer going into sleep mode with error 91. Salt is correct...I had it tested at Leslies...So, it is still beeping into the error code really quickly. I set it to FP mode and it appears to be generating chlorine in the cell chamber (whispy white stuff). As far as the mechanical timer goes, not working I think because the gfi interrupts each time it powers off and needs to be “reset”. The pump and the chlorinate are connected so the power must be activated. Stumped for now if anyone has any thoughts.
I've done this, but the "working" light doesn't stay on, and as commented by others, the low salt light continues to blink. Without the "working" light actually on, is it actually working?
Thanks. Nice video. Probably one of the better ones that try to fix the low salt issue. It looks to me like you hard-wired the clorinator to power, so it will run whenever the unit is on--either switch or just plugged in (not sure which it is). The other method people have used is to fake out the titanium electrode that detects salt level.
I did everything exactly as said on the video. I hooked it back up to power after a couple of minutes of running it went to service required light. And no white bubbles appearing to produce chlorine. Any ideas?
@@debrafones1325 I've also found it very sensitive to overheating. When mine was in direct sunlight, it would run only a few minutes. Try giving it some shade and making sure the fan is running.
A bit slow on the reply, but from what I read the boost function runs the chlorinator longer. So the boost determines duration that it runs (can't remember if I read 8 or 10 times longer) not the power it runs. So if your timer is normally 4 hours and you boost it will run continuously for 32 or 40 hours.
@@davidscherr7722 It runs longer on boost but mine also produces more of the "white smoke" chlorine gas when I put it on boost mode. it also sounds different. I'm guessing the voltage is increased. I'm wondering if this fix is like running it in boost mode
the low salt warning will still be present. this will jumper the actual process to turn the chlorination on and keep it on. the low salt warning will prevent it from working correctly.
I have been searching how to fix this problem and your video was a big help. Other videos were too confusing and they were talking about moving a lot of wires. I do have a question though. I did exactly what you explained and the cell is generating chlorine as soon as I turn the unit on but the beeping sound and the indicator on the screen is still showing the code 91 low salt. Is there a way to stop the beeping?
I found that after wiring like this, you don't even need to have the unit switch to on. That's way there will be no alarms but the cell is still powered
Matthew Hendershot I just completed your bypass. Thank you! So, if code 91 persists, the plates will be powered at all times, whether the unit is on or off?
Yes. The low salt will still be in however, this will jumper the salt making process to power so that way in this configuration, it will always be chlorinating.
Hi,I did this last year,and it worked. Had it hooked up with pump going for at least 12hrs from yesterday to today, and no chlorine is being made(I checked with testing strips) any suggestions? Thank you!
matthew hendershot I have a slightly newer/different looking chlorinator but once cover was off it looked same as yours... my question since doing this do you leave yours plugged in 24/7 and simply let the pump cycle on/off? or do you suggest unplugging? thank you for video! ✌
I followed the video exactly. Reconnected power. And after a couple of minutes it went straight to service needed red light. It also does not appear to be producing any chlorine. Any suggestions? Do I need to reconnect the output wires?
This "fix" bypasses the internal controls and supplies power directly to the electrode. Chlorine production is now managed by the operator (you) killing power to the system instead of using timer or cycling on/off.
I believe a couple months but I think that when you do this the self cleaning function stops working so you have to take the cell out and clean it manually. A good scrub and vinegar soak should do the job!
I've had my system for 2 months. Worked perfectly. We moved a few days ago and now I have the code 91. I know my salt levels are correct and the electodes are perfectly clean. I dont see any bubbles when I turn it on and it gives me the code after about 1 minute. Do you think this would work for mine?
Still says low salt, but its not. So I tried this & instead of shutting off it stays on & makes the chlorine. My chlorinator is different, but the circuit board is the same. The only thing is the chlorinator will constantly run. So I will just cut it off at night & let it run during the day, but much better than forking out $$$! Thanks!
Helllpppp, intex is out of stock on the is there anyone else besides intex that sells the 11374, Titanium Electrode for 16in Sand Filter & Saltwater System CG
This will bypass the alarm, unfortunately I don't believe it will clear it. You can try cleaning the cell thoroughly and maybe that will clear it for you.
I did this about a week ago and have been running the saltwater system everyday for about 12 hours. Today I tested the chlorine and salt levels. My salt level is at about 3200 but my chlorine is still reading very low. Any idea why this would be? The system looks like it’s producing chlorine.
The only thing I can think of is that you are low on the chlorine UV protector ( I think its bromine or something) and/or the chlorine is being used up to treat contaminants.
This is happening because folks are not treating their pools for scale build up. The salt system builds up too much scale and doesn’t allow it to do its job….. Then, it throws the code. Bypassing the sensor doesn’t fix the issue. Your salt system doesn’t magically remove the scale and begin to produce chlorine again. It’ll start running again sure, but the process of turning salt into chlorine has gone to crap. Treat the scale, and or replace the parts internally. This fix is like removing the check engine light of your car and thinking it’s good to go now.
Hey Matt,did what you said i do see a bubble in the chlorinator .But the low salt light is still on.You said that the red and black wires together and the black and the white .Some other guy on the channel Said two blacks together hope im going right not mechanical, musician artistic.thx
I will say that i think a self cleaning mode is bypassed with this set up. I will have to clean the chlorinating cell by soaking it in vinegar every once and a while. I use the chlorine tabs with this as well so I believe that supplements everything. I do not need to add shock when I'm using chlorinating tabs as well.
@@matthewhendershot2009 I should try vinegar, I usually just take them out and use a butter knife and a tooth brush to clean all the buildup off. If vinegar removes all that crap, that would be awesome.
Great video, much better than the rest I've watched. One question.. so this will constantly generate chlorine whether powered on or off? Will this over chlorinate?
Yes, I believe that if you leave it on 24/7 there is a potential to over chlorinate. I run mine 12 hours a day and sometimes more depending on what I think is required. I also have free chlorine test strips that help show the ppm chlorine to ensure it is around the normal operating range. You can purchase those cheap from amazon if interested.
now this video was truly helpful. a bypass fix is what most ppl are wanting to see. cheers.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!! I was going down this rabbit hole of adding salt with no change. Found your video and followed your steps and now we are back in business!!
Wonderful! Thanks for the comment!
I have Different model, but circuit board was same. Followed your video and it works again. Thanks, saved big bucks.
Great to hear!
Thanks this works, you just have to kill the power to make it stop, doesnt matter if the timer or unit is on, as long as its plugged into the power it works, so make sure you pump filter stays on while its pluged to power.
Thanks for the video, you just saved me about 500 bucks. I had this issue with that unit a few years ago and bought the upgraded replacement model last year, now having the same problem with that one. Pulled my old unit out of the box that I held on to, rewired it hooked it up and it’s good to go.
Glad I could help out!
I just tried this and it seems to work. I’ll be splicing the cord and adding new ends on so that I can plug it into a timer. However you figured out this hack, I’m grateful for it.
Yes adding a timer is a must! Thanks for the comment.
Good job. Your explanation and imagery was perfect. The only exciting moment I experienced in doing this to my own SWG was the Black Widow that had decided to take up residence underneath the unit.
Same! I kill it along with their egg sack with thoudsounds of them.
Ok, so I did what u said. It works but u can't use the power button? Correct? If I do, it still gives me error code.
Thank you very much for the solution to the problem. I used the vinegar as others indicated but it did not work in my case. I decided to use your method on an Intex machine but on another model, actually, electronically they are the same circuits that you describe and the color of the wires and the position are identical. When connecting the machine to the current I see that it produces chlorine, even if it is turned off and in reality what interested me is the production of chlorine, nothing else. Thank you very much it works great.
Great to hear, and I'm glad I could help!
This fix worked for us, and had a new replacement power box, thanks so much for helping us get the problem fixed, system now running, making chlorine, timer and boost working like a charm.
Thank you for the info. I had been cleaning the cells in white vinegar and putting die electric on the fittings to the cells. Still getting low salt even though my salt meter showed 3200 ppm. About ready to buy a new cell at about $100. You have really saved me with your video.
Glad I could help you out!
First of all, thanks for the video. I have a CS7110 chlorinator from intex but the wiring seems the same. rewired per your vidoe, plugged back in and still get a "low salt" indicator light. Any other suggestions?
The low salt indication still beeps but it's making chlorine in sleep mode. Thank you.
Think I will just bypass both modules and wire them directly together.
Thanks again.... with all the shortages going on with pool supplies at least we're making chlorine. 😎
How do you know it’s making chlorine in sleep mode? I have the same problem. Did the video bypass and still the low salt indicator.
Thanks for the great vid. Mine just started throwing the Low Salt code a couple days ago. I did what we all do - added more salt. Next cycle, it did the same thing. Then I tested the salt level - lots of salt. I recently cleaned the plates, so I knew it wasn't that. Tore it apart and found the exact same issue as yours. The contact points were rusted/corroded. I was able to remove them, cleaned up everything to bare metal, applied dielectric grease to all plugs and spade connectors. That should help prevent future corrosion. Reinstalled it and it works geat again. Just a note for anyone who hasn't ever opened their unit - they are NOT air/water tight. Mine had alot of dirt, etc inside the cover. Keep that in mind if you leave your out in the weather. I'll be building an enclosure for mine now to keep it dry.
Thanks for the comment and advice!
I did the exact same thing, it had been running fine (no code 91) with levels all looking good. Came out today to find it in sleep mode, due to a code 91 with the terminals bypassed, now we are completely stumped! any one have any ideas?
Great video. I tried this and it continued producing chlorine but it was at a low rate. One thing to realize is that your chlorinator part only has a life span of about 3 years so your 91 error might be caused by this. Replacement parts for Intex are about $45. I replace mine and it was like night and day the difference in chlorine production. No 91 error code either when I required the unit back to its original state. No need for a full replacement. Just plug and play the new part.
I didn't know the replacement parts were so cheap. Where did you find them amazon?
Julian can you give some information on where you found your parts and what you replaced for this code
I have the newer version and I’m getting code 91, do I need to replace both salt electrodes or just one? I see a price of $31 at intex, but they have a second for $120. Mine has two.
Does this bypass the timer and boost function as well?
Switching the polarity on plates every season helps with hard water deposits. Turn unit off. Unscrew retaining rings on both sides. Rotate connectors 180°. Screw retaining rings back down. (They're designed for this. Why Intex doesn't put in manual is beyond me.)
Rotate connectors on each side? I saw another video, and they rotated the connector on the large plate side. I did that, it worked for a while, but shut off again with code 91. 🤦♂️
@corytrevorson7544 yeah well... the plates don't last forever. I ended up doing this hack anyway.
Thanks for posting this! It works great. As someone mentioned earlier, as long as the chlorinator is plugged in, it will generate chlorine. You actually don't have to press the ON button of the chlorinator. If your unit is beeping, just turn if off, as it will still be making chlorine. You can no longer use the timer on the display, but it's something I can live with to have a functioning chlorinator without those useless 'low salt' errors. Also, if your unit has a GFCI built into the plug, make sure you press the RESET button on it once you plug it in to make the chlorinator work. I'm actually using the TEST/RESET buttons as ON/OFF buttons. Another thing: the 'bubbles' of the generated chlorine that someone mentioned earlier, actually looks like 'smoke' on my unit as it is coming off the electrodes, so look for that to verify that there is actually chorine being generated.
Thanks for the comment and advice!
This part of the explanation totally went over my head until I read this!! Thank you!! You DONT have to turn the salt water generator on! It produces chlorine anyway!
I also still get the low salt light and beep when I power on the unit. However it appears to be working with the unit in the off position. Thanks for the video.
Mine as well they sound is driveing me crazy
Hey so why not connect both cells to the red and black wires??
Thanks for the video. My generator still says low salt so I must have another problem. I connected the leads from 12 battery charger on a timer to my generator and it works that way. Though I have no power going to the copper anode and cathode, less green hair from swimming in the pool now. The positive and negative connections to the unit make no difference as the plug on the back can be flipped to either orientation. Any other ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I prefer the automatic setting of the device.
Thank you for your video!
At first I was disappointed thinking it hadn't worked because the low salt light came on. After looking through the comments, I realized that it was not that uncommon, and that the unit was still producing chlorine. Hooray!
Concerning somebody's comment on wondering if the unit still produces chlorine on FP; it appears that it does.
Someone else asked how do you tell that is producing chlorine there are little bubbles flowing around the electrode (I think that's what you would call it.?)
Thanks again; I have been fighting this battle all summer. I didn't think to check the salt level, but I purchased test strips, and found out that our salt level was higher than it really should be.
I did exactly what you said and with in a minute it said low salt! I’m so at my wits end with this nonsense and this machine
Yes it seems to me that these electronics only last 1 season, 2 if you are lucky. This season I stopped using saltwater. I am having issues with the pump now so I am working to figure those out...
Mine I can see it producing chlorine now but the warning keeps going off
Hi there. I have the ECO 15110-2 model. There are no screws to the leads. They plug in. Any suggestions?? I can send you a pic
yes maybe send the pic so I can see exactly what issue you are having.
Never mind!! I found them. But the fix didn’t work. When I powered up, it shut on and off every ten seconds. It may be my gfci
I tried your suggestion on two Intex Salt Water systems and it did not eliminate the Low Salt error on either system. I removed the connections on the top two posts (white and black wires) and connected them to the posts below them. I have Black/White on the top psot and Red/Black on the bottom post. I still get Low Salt error 91. What am I doing wrong?
I had the low salt error but my salt is 3600. Intex sent me a new control unit under warranty but after running a while it did it again. I bypassed on the old unit and it’s working so far.
Low salt water light still comes on but it seems to be producing chlorine. Hopefully it gets through this season and maybe the prices will start coming down. Had it for 5 years, clean it regularly, first time it quit working .
Draculina, yes this fix bypasses the sensor so the low salt alarm will still come in.
Mr. Hendershot, even with the alarm bypassed, it still gives the code and puts itself into sleep mode. Is there a way to make it constantly produce chlorine and not go into sleep mode? Thanks
Thank you thank you! I have the smaller version of this but the fix still was the same and worked!
Great!
muchas gracias por la aportacion ,ahora me podras dicer como interpreto la lectura del medidor de sal me salio 580 ppm en una picina deredonda de 3500 galones la medida es 14 pies por 42 pulgas intex .
ta agradeceria tu comentario saludos
Very helpful but had additional questions….Once I bypass the low salt warning, Do I have to manually go out every day and turn the pump on/off or does the pump timer continue to work (simultaneously producing chlorine)?
If an external timer is necessary to avoid manual on/off then please advise on process…I am not electrically savy on my own but can figure it out with direction. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Any idea what the other cells do (marked as CU+ and CU-)?
Not that I know of
I tried the bypass, alarm still goes on and not working light!
I have the newer model. Is the wiring inside similar?
Thanks for the help, it works after days of Remedies
great news.
Matthew, after the fix, I’m still getting the error code like many others, but I’m not sure how to tell if my system is making chlorine. Can you offer me any help?
You will see it making chlorine. There will be small bubbles forming and flowing away from the cell if it is making chlorine correctly.
It worked but do I have to unplug it when my pump isn't running?
I put mine on an electric timer like I use on Christmas lights.
Salut j’ai ce que tu conseil sur le nouveau modèle ça fonctionne très bien même si ce n’est pas la même couleur de fils . Ma question est est-ce qu’on peut se servir encore du panneau de contrôle ou ça sert à rien vue que le contrôleur de chlore fonctionne tout le temps ? Merci
I have a summer waves salt water system that is doing the same thing, do you have any experience with these. Wonder if I could do the same to fix mine?
I have the intex so I'm not too sure if it'll work on yours. Sorry.
How long can you run it without the fan working?
I have bought like 4 systems for this exact reason. The last one cast me close to $600 because of covid shortages and that one just started giving me the code only after 1.4 years. But I'm all reality like 7 months of use.
That's been my experience; these last about a season. The issue with rewiring is you can't reverse polarity to descale.
Okay I need help!!! So I did this exact thing and I come out hours later now it says high salt I did everything you said ? Help
segun mi picina llava 3.5 bolsas de sal de 40 libras y creo que es suficiente como mi salinador me marcaba codigo 91 pues no creo que sea necesario mas sal disculpa que te escriba en spanish please
Thank you so much it’s been driving me nuts I’ve tried everything this worked great
Gave it a shot since I have nothing to lose. 10 minutes, and is working. It still alarms and says low salt but it continues running. Goes to sleep mode but continues generating chlorine, or at least a lot of tiny bubbles. Is this how yours works also?
Safe to run full 12v to the cell?
Mine shows just under 5v to the cell when its all hooked up right.
Moving the cell wires to the power coming to the board puts 12v to the cell.
Safe to run like that?
I put the system on a timer to turn it on and off
This seems like an important question that someone can answer, I agree
@@MastaShredduh my thought is theres a reason voltage to the cell is only 5 volts.
Another thought.
The cooling fan wont run unless the system is running right.
Seems like it will fry the system.over volting one part and over heating others
We did this to ours and it worked however the code still reads and it still beeps. How do I kill the alarm now
I get no alarm lights but I'm not getting any bubbles on my intake sensor but I'm getting them on the outake.
y unit looks the same as yours,however ,when l open it up, it has 6 wires. The top two is blue then brown and says next to them WAR, then there is another two ,which is blue and brown, then black and red lower down. So i think l should not take a risk, also the blue and brown wires at the top are push on connecters,so l would need to cut them.hmmm??
Thank you for the video, have a couple thoughts/questions.
1 when I turn it back on should I only have it in filter mode. If it is chlorinate mode I still get the error.
2 if using the built in timer will the salt cell turn off when the cycle stops or should I set it up on an external timer.
I’m still getting the exact same error with beeping and then it switches to sleep mode. As if nothing was done…. Please help.
You did this video a year too late. 😂. I had to get a new unit in 2019 because of service system light and now my new unit has a code 91. Did your wiring to my old unit that had service system. That one is now making chlorine but has no timer or boost but that’s fine. I will do the wiring to the new unit giving me low chlorine. Perhaps that will give me timer and boost. Thank you for your video because as of late it seems like everything is breaking. Blessing to you.
One solution, after doing this, I have noticed the system makes chlorine no matter if the system is off or on as long as it has power - (plugged in) its making chlorine. I simply turned it off and its still makes chlorine, to get rid of the beeping 91 code. I have programmed my pumped and chlorinator to run 12 hours and my Acid and Chlorine levels are perfect. If your chlorine levels get high- just unplug the system. Its a chore buts its worth it and not having to buy a new system. Just remember to clean your cells with vinegar every month. and you all should be good to go.
By “turned it off” to get rid of the beeping 91, what do you mean? How did you do that?
does your timer still workor do i have to turn off manually
Unfortunately, you will have to do it manually. What i've seen though is hooking the whole system to a timer that runs to the power source.
I jumped the wires as shown (they werent corroded at all) to fix the timer going into sleep mode with error 91. Salt is correct...I had it tested at Leslies...So, it is still beeping into the error code really quickly. I set it to FP mode and it appears to be generating chlorine in the cell chamber (whispy white stuff). As far as the mechanical timer goes, not working I think because the gfi interrupts each time it powers off and needs to be “reset”. The pump and the chlorinate are connected so the power must be activated. Stumped for now if anyone has any thoughts.
I just did this fix and one side which I believe is the chlorine side is still running but the other side, the copper side is not running.
?
Soldered the wires to the copper unit to the palte leads, same colors.
I've done this, but the "working" light doesn't stay on, and as commented by others, the low salt light continues to blink. Without the "working" light actually on, is it actually working?
Stupid question. Does your low salt light still light up after you bypass it?
Yes it does.
Thanks. Nice video. Probably one of the better ones that try to fix the low salt issue. It looks to me like you hard-wired the clorinator to power, so it will run whenever the unit is on--either switch or just plugged in (not sure which it is). The other method people have used is to fake out the titanium electrode that detects salt level.
Thanks for the info and comment!
How do you fake out the other electrode that detects the salt?
I did everything exactly as said on the video. I hooked it back up to power after a couple of minutes of running it went to service required light. And no white bubbles appearing to produce chlorine. Any ideas?
@@debrafones1325 I've also found it very sensitive to overheating. When mine was in direct sunlight, it would run only a few minutes. Try giving it some shade and making sure the fan is running.
Great video does the boost function still work on the copper side?
ya know I haven't thought to try that. Its kinda late for me as my pool is closed now for the winter.
A bit slow on the reply, but from what I read the boost function runs the chlorinator longer. So the boost determines duration that it runs (can't remember if I read 8 or 10 times longer) not the power it runs. So if your timer is normally 4 hours and you boost it will run continuously for 32 or 40 hours.
@@davidscherr7722 It runs longer on boost but mine also produces more of the "white smoke" chlorine gas when I put it on boost mode. it also sounds different. I'm guessing the voltage is increased. I'm wondering if this fix is like running it in boost mode
So I had this issue and tried the muriatic acid vinegar etc. I finally bought 2 new salt cells from intex for about $80. That did the trick.
Thanks for the suggestion. Did you purchase them directly from intex?
Matthew, I followed your lead, but it is still doing the same thing; signal 91. ??
Mine is still doing the same 91 code after I did this fix as well ? Any suggestions I don’t have this exact model Ec06110
Same here guys were screwed tbh. Covid made intex go out of business basicallt
I have the ECO6110 model & did exactly what you showed, but 1 minute after starting, the low salt code came right back on:( PLEASE HELP!!!
Does the timer still work. It usually show time left but my is blank or 91
No, you'll have to get an appliance timer to maintain the timer function. I'm sorry.
I followed your direction but I still get the low salt warning. Suggestions?
the low salt warning will still be present. this will jumper the actual process to turn the chlorination on and keep it on. the low salt warning will prevent it from working correctly.
What model do you have?
this is intex just beep . All led lights are off. How to fix?. only used 2 months . Can u help me solution? Tq
Sorry, I would be guessing.
Just bought this system. Is there anything I can put on the connections to keep the corrosion from happening?
Copper never seize. Very
Light coat
I have been searching how to fix this problem and your video was a big help. Other videos were too confusing and they were talking about moving a lot of wires. I do have a question though. I did exactly what you explained and the cell is generating chlorine as soon as I turn the unit on but the beeping sound and the indicator on the screen is still showing the code 91 low salt. Is there a way to stop the beeping?
I found that after wiring like this, you don't even need to have the unit switch to on. That's way there will be no alarms but the cell is still powered
Awesome thanks again!!
Matthew Hendershot I just completed your bypass. Thank you! So, if code 91 persists, the plates will be powered at all times, whether the unit is on or off?
@@sethdaniel31 that’s what I want to know
How do you know if it’s making chlorine?
Help! I did this, and I am still receiving the low salt error code.
Will it still say low salt? But still produce the chlorine?
Yes. The low salt will still be in however, this will jumper the salt making process to power so that way in this configuration, it will always be chlorinating.
why not disconnect the salt sensor?
I need to know how to do this for the 7110
Hi,I did this last year,and it worked. Had it hooked up with pump going for at least 12hrs from yesterday to today, and no chlorine is being made(I checked with testing strips) any suggestions? Thank you!
I would check to see if the cell needs to be cleaned (soak in vinegar)
So after doing this the low salt alarm stays on but it will continue to make chlorine?
Happens to me. Still biping but making chlorine
matthew hendershot I have a slightly newer/different looking chlorinator but once cover was off it looked same as yours...
my question since doing this do you leave yours plugged in 24/7 and simply let the pump cycle on/off? or do you suggest unplugging?
thank you for video! ✌
Same here, beep low salt 91, but it seems to be working, how did you get it to stop beeping?
I just turn the switch in the back to off. This bypass method still puts power to the cell with the unit off.
@@matthewhendershot2009 So if you have a separate pump you wouldn't need a timer on the salt water system?
I followed the video exactly. Reconnected power. And after a couple of minutes it went straight to service needed red light. It also does not appear to be producing any chlorine. Any suggestions? Do I need to reconnect the output wires?
Same here
This "fix" bypasses the internal controls and supplies power directly to the electrode. Chlorine production is now managed by the operator (you) killing power to the system instead of using timer or cycling on/off.
How long does this fix last? Mine quit working in 4 months after I rewired it
Also could it be i just need to clean the bars?
I believe a couple months but I think that when you do this the self cleaning function stops working so you have to take the cell out and clean it manually. A good scrub and vinegar soak should do the job!
I've had my system for 2 months. Worked perfectly. We moved a few days ago and now I have the code 91. I know my salt levels are correct and the electodes are perfectly clean. I dont see any bubbles when I turn it on and it gives me the code after about 1 minute. Do you think this would work for mine?
Thats what mine was doing. Yes I believe it will work, best part about it is if it doesn't you can switch the leads back to original configuration
@@matthewhendershot2009 thank you . I will try it. I appreciate the quick reply and detailed instructions.
Will we still the error 91 code flashing, low salt warning
Yes the error code will still come in, this bypasses that and puts power straight to the chlorine making cell. Hope that helps!
Can the newer model be bypassed?
I am willing to bet it can.
We did the bypass exactly as shown in the video and our low salt alarm is still coming on every time. I don't even know how that's possible?
I'm sorry, I'm not sure. I think someone in the replies comment to this problem.
Same thing.
You don't have to turn it on as soon as you plug it in it comes on now😂 hot wiring stuff and don't know what your doin
I still have the beeping @@matthewhendershot2009
Is yours still working this way
I just tried this and the low salt 91 code came right on. Do I not actually turn the Chlorinator on? Just the pump?
I just did this & also have the low salt code right away!
I did this to mine. Still getting the beeping and low salt light. It eventually stops beeping. But where do I look for bubbles to see if it’s working?
You should see them coming from the chlorinating cell. Maybe try cleaning the cell as well.
My still beeping. Is that normal 😕
Still says low salt, but its not. So I tried this & instead of shutting off it stays on & makes the chlorine. My chlorinator is different, but the circuit board is the same. The only thing is the chlorinator will constantly run. So I will just cut it off at night & let it run during the day, but much better than forking out $$$! Thanks!
My system is working making chlorine but still giving me the low salt warning g and biping... any way I can make that shot up. Lol
Im not sure how to shut it up. Sorry haha. This just bypasses it.
Help, I completed bypass but low salt alarm is still on.
Not working
the bypass will bypass the alarm as well. I wouldn't expect the alarm to clear for this fix. It'll just bypass it. Does that help?
The alarm goes on and it stops working!
Helllpppp, intex is out of stock on the is there anyone else besides intex that sells the 11374, Titanium Electrode for 16in Sand Filter & Saltwater System CG
@@TXLUTZ yes your alarm will go off still but it will make Chlorine
I just did this on my new model , it kept saying code 91 , idk what to do..
Same
This will bypass the alarm, unfortunately I don't believe it will clear it. You can try cleaning the cell thoroughly and maybe that will clear it for you.
I did this about a week ago and have been running the saltwater system everyday for about 12 hours. Today I tested the chlorine and salt levels. My salt level is at about 3200 but my chlorine is still reading very low. Any idea why this would be? The system looks like it’s producing chlorine.
The only thing I can think of is that you are low on the chlorine UV protector ( I think its bromine or something) and/or the chlorine is being used up to treat contaminants.
I did this but the I’m still getting the beeping???
Worked great! Thanks
Still recieving the 91 code and low salt light even after the wiring is it working or no.thx
it should be working regardless of the code. Does it look like its producing chlorine? For example, are there small bubbles being produced?
@@matthewhendershot2009 same still have the code. Any other suggestions?
So I just did this yesterday and when I used it I'm still getting the Low Salt error. Is it correct to connect the red to black and black to white?
I did this also , and mine is also still showing low salt is this normal
This is happening because folks are not treating their pools for scale build up. The salt system builds up too much scale and doesn’t allow it to do its job….. Then, it throws the code. Bypassing the sensor doesn’t fix the issue. Your salt system doesn’t magically remove the scale and begin to produce chlorine again. It’ll start running again sure, but the process of turning salt into chlorine has gone to crap. Treat the scale, and or replace the parts internally. This fix is like removing the check engine light of your car and thinking it’s good to go now.
Spezial Thanks from Germany. The New Version have the self Problem. With your Tipp i fix the Problem.
P.s. My Elektodes is 1 year old
Good to hear!
Did the bypass worked for awhile but low salt code is back on
Same
Yes the code won't clear but it will bypass the code and keep the cell on to keep making chlorine.
Hey Matt,did what you said i do see a bubble in the chlorinator .But the low salt light is still on.You said that the red and black wires together and the black and the white .Some other guy on the channel
Said two blacks together hope im going right not mechanical, musician artistic.thx
Seems like black to black is safer. Maybe this is why this tutorial results in a constant power situation
That didn’t work. Any suggestions?
hmm... it is doing nothing?
Do you have to shock your pool at times or is this making enough chlorine to do the job of shock ?
I will say that i think a self cleaning mode is bypassed with this set up. I will have to clean the chlorinating cell by soaking it in vinegar every once and a while. I use the chlorine tabs with this as well so I believe that supplements everything. I do not need to add shock when I'm using chlorinating tabs as well.
@@matthewhendershot2009 I should try vinegar, I usually just take them out and use a butter knife and a tooth brush to clean all the buildup off. If vinegar removes all that crap, that would be awesome.
Great video, much better than the rest I've watched. One question.. so this will constantly generate chlorine whether powered on or off? Will this over chlorinate?
Yes, I believe that if you leave it on 24/7 there is a potential to over chlorinate. I run mine 12 hours a day and sometimes more depending on what I think is required. I also have free chlorine test strips that help show the ppm chlorine to ensure it is around the normal operating range. You can purchase those cheap from amazon if interested.
So I did rewire mine but do you keep the off button off or turn it on? When I turn it on I get the code 91 still.
After I did the fix..sometimes the 91 code still comes up..and sometimes 92..the sensors are supposed to be disconnected
Mine too
Would work good if the titanium plates weren't garbage lol. Mine stopped working no replacement