THE 10 BIGGEST MISTAKES WHEN LOADING A TRAILER! 😱
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
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This video is for entertainment purposes only. Good Works Tractors (Good Works Lawn & Power, LLC) cannot be held responsible for content found in any video. Always reference your owners manuals, use extreme caution, and proceed at your own risk.
In this video, I'll share some of the many mistakes I've made along the way when loading and securing tractors to trailers. Hopefully you find this video helpful and you can avoid the same mistakes that I've made along the way! - บันเทิง
Excellent video. As a retired Ems/fire service member, I saw lots of results of quick & "aw, that's good enough" tie downs. If your load is lost & does the unthinkable, you're responsible. This is a good place to practice A little bit of overkill....
I didn't see your other video about what people seal their trailer decks with so I thought I'd share what we use at our heavy haul company. We like to use boiled linseed oil on both of the hardwood (usually apitong) and soft wood (usually doug fir) deck boards. We haul machines up to 160,000 pounds and this method has helped them last many years unless someone puts a ripper tooth through the deck. Also on your flat straps if you put one twist on them they tend to flap less in the wind. That might help with your strap on the hood to keep it from scratching one. Good video to help people be safer. The guys without those ramps like you have may even put a block of wood under the rear of the trailer (leave room for the trailer to drop a bit) to help it not lift the front of the truck up and take off down the road or damage their coupler. Also putting the truck in 4wd and setting the E-brake can help with that as well so it doesn't brake your park pawl in the transmission.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING . WELL DONE 4 HUMBLE COMMENTS 1 I USE A 3 STRAP OVER THE TIRE 1 OVER TOP 2 ALSO SHOCK STRAP .3 LITTLE BUNGIE TO HOLD EXCESS STRAP 4 TOW TRUCK IN NUTREAL . WITH CHOCKS. AT 83 I AM STILL LEARNING . ALL THE VERY BEST GOD BLESS
George O'Connell You are correct wheel chocks are the best method. If you don’t have them put the truck in four-wheel-drive. That way if the backend of the truck gets light it still will not move.
Great tips for hauling! Thanks! A neat trick if one chooses to use chains, buy a 2 or 3” diameter discharge hose (for a pump) and cut it to whatever lengths needed to use it as a protective sleeve where ever the chain may remove paint.
You can still inspect your chains as needed. This also helps protect straps from sharp edges. 👍
Good solid advice here! 👍. Newbie trailering folks take note!
Excellent advice! One other safety item is never load a trailer without it hitched to the tow vehicle.
Good advice & suggestions for loading/unloading & hauling equipment onto a trailer. Stay safe.
Good suggestion on the hood strap, I missed that one. Might want to also include measuring the distance from the ground to the top of the load. ROPS can be lowered, but enclosed cabs and low-clearance bridges and other obstacles can be a costly mistake.
Good point about doors. I had an X739 with one of those soft cabs delivered, and the driver didn't secure the doors. The doors with cloth weighed maybe 10 pounds each. Guess what arrived without doors? Fortunately the dealer was good about it and replaced them. They said they fired the driver but I told them I wouldn't have asked them to do that. Just coach him and make sure he doesn't do it again.
Thank you. Good tips! I don't haul my 1025R around too much. But do from time to time and tend to forget the basics. Especially the hood! Thanks for sharing!
Great information and reminder for loading a tractor-! Thank-you-!
If it’s not your truck and trailer and you are not the one hauling the load never drive anything on to a trailer and don’t help bind it down. Even if you think you are being helpful, if anything happens during transport you can/might be held responsible. The operator of the truck is responsible for the load from point A to B let their insurance cover any mistakes.
Yes, I agree and so does my insurance company.
A good rule of thumb when using straps is to racket it one complete turn. The strap is basically locking onto itself. So I will start with a little bit of slack then racket it tight.
You always provide the most educational content. I learn a lot and really enjoy all your videos. Thanks for taking the time to make these.
I have lifted the back wheels of truck off the ground myself and took a little ride. I was able to get backed off the trailer with incident also. Now I put blocks under the back of the trailer so that does not happen making sure I leave enough space to accommodate the weight of the tractor on the trailer so I can get the blocks back out. Great video I will have to invest in some of those D ring stake pockets.
All your videos are very informative with items you (meaning me) can use. Thank you!
Another great video. I just upgraded to a Big Tex trailer with mega ramps. So much better for loading. I also got a set of Speedbinders for securing the tractor to the trailer.
If possible, purchase a standard bumper pull ramp load trailer that has rear jack stands (or make the modification yourself). Set them about an inch or two off the ground when the trailer is empty, or before offloading the equipment. Then when you start loading or unloading the trailer, the rear of the trailer will only drop that inch or two until the stands start taking load. This will prevent lifting the truck's rear axle off of the ground and inducing an "underwear change required" moment. 😲
Chocking the wheels of the trailer &/or the truck is a DARNED good idea too! Wheel chocks are cheap insurance. Yeah, they are a pain to set & remove, but "better safe than sorry" is MORE than a slogan! And we had a principle of "safety stand down". At ANY time, even the most rookie (low ranking) can say "STOP!" & a discussion of their concerns follows & is addressed. The six "P's", * P*ss Poor Preparation Prevents Perfect Performance* . Safety is a habit, NOT an accident! Good luck & God bless! 🤠
Always support the rear of the trailer if your ramps don't have the built in stand. I have seen trucks lifted up like described in the video and comments. I have also seen the hitch coupler fail, which could be deadly if someone happened to be bent over the hitch and it comes up and hits you in the chest or face..
Love your videos ! Thanks for all the information you provide as it’s very informative.
We just put the stack pocket d-rings on our trailer today. Easy to install and nice tie off points.
Nice!
Great video! Very helpful. Keep them coming.
It is a good idea to strap down a canopy also
One time when we bought our John Deere Gator, we tightened the ratchet strap way too tight and a piece of metal on the frame cut right through it on the highway. Luckily we had the parking break on otherwise all hell would have broken loose! 😩
Great video liked that you practiced safety first. You see lawnscaping companies all over the place without having their machines not strapped down. Keep making these types of videos awsome job.
love the info i have new tractors and implements so very informative.
Great video! Funny using an “ORANGE” strap to tie down the “Deere” makes me wanna grab a sharpie and write Kubota on that strap👍🤪👍
Also consider “cross tying” look at draw bar footage. Tie down like an “X” so instead of right rear strap pulled to the right and rear as you said “Opposing forces” take it and tie it TOWARDS the left front steer tire.
Each strap or chain pulling to both the opposite side and end simultaneously rather than away in the same direction. This will help reduce movement and loosening of the tie downs as you travel or suddenly stop. Also helps in turns. Turning left as it naturally being top heavy would lean green machine to the right.
In this cross tie the tie downs on the left side to the trailers right will pull against that lean from the lowest point as gravity pulls at the upper half of units center of gravity. So basically the “X” pattern can help counter pull against the momentum caused by speed and direction changes.
When I pulled a supply truck for the army out of California I was looking at good tie down method and a Sargent recommended that method. That’s also why tires were deflated a bit before tie down to reduce movement from “bouncing” of suspension if it were at full height. Just a tip🤪👍
Also used on aircraft transport for the reasons you outlined!
Great video thanks
Great video thanks Larry
Great comments.....thanks for sharing.
I know you already have the movable D rings. But they also have straps that you can buy that have like 18in worth a chain and a hook on the end and they fit through the stake pocket and you can wrap around on the top. Thanks for the good video God bless
That's the setup that I use! Love them
The chain on the ratchet side is the best
Good information 👍
Really excellent video
Great video! One helpful tip is to always set the parking break on the tow vehicle. Takes some extra strain off the transmission.
And check lights, tires and spare every time you hook up. Even with fairly new tires, I had 2 blowouts thirty miles apart last week hauling a JD 5210.
One thing you didn't mention was the difference between direct and indirect load securement. I would think that the straps on the tires are direct and know the straps on rear are direct. WLL gets cut in half on each strap. The strap for the bucket would be indirect, keeping its full WLL. Also noticed you didn't mention these on your load securement video either.
With lashings on tires, you do have to keep in mind that in the rare case that the tire bursts, your tiedowns will be loose.
Also add one complete twist to the long end of the strap to keep them from vibrating in the wind.
That's one of the reasons I don't prefer straps over chain. And after years of hauling large skid mounted & trailer mounted equip (generators), I prefer to use tie-down points on the frame or "hard points". IMHO 🤠
I also put the seat belt over the seat and sinch it down so the seat doesn't slam around from wind/braking/accelerating
Great tip!
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I strap the seat down too, don’t like watching it bounce while going down the road
Always a little nugget of new knowledge in your videos.
Wouldn’t like my new tractor show up with strap scratches across the hood! Might consider something cloth between the hood and strap.
I have yet to see any scratches on a hood.
A good quality bungee for holding non-load critical pieces is a good option, IMHO. Also, daisy-chain the loose portion of your straps to prevent "flapping in the wind" & strap/equip damage. If done properly, they are super quick & easily undone before unloading. "Adapt & overcome!" God bless!
I screwed down a few strips of round Baler belting onto the deck where my tires ride. I can now load in most weather conditions
My 3038e has a small storage compartment on the left side arm rest. always have to double check to ensure it’s fastened. More than once I’ve noticed my gloves flying off the trailer.
Thanks for the link to the Stake Pocket D-Rings. I'll be adding that to my trailer equipment. I've heard differing opinions on crossing one or both sets of tie-downs/chains when securing a load, is it personal preference or is there some legal requirements about how to do it? So far I load and secure my tractor (J-D 2320) like you do, so I feel more confident about my procedure.
Alan Bare
In regards to crossing the straps or chains, it's my understanding that that method is mostly used for oversize loads or anything wider than your trailer. The crossing method can also be used for smaller loads like the one in this video, but the way Courtney did it in this video is perfectly legal. When I got my class A licence, my instructor told me to always plan for the worst. Imagine tipping over or being involved in a roll over, if that were to ever happen, would your load stay put?
@@BigBirdNest Good answer! When I was learning how to "Palletize equip & cargo" in my Air Force career & place it on a 463L pallet for air transport, (after having to use those frustrating until you get the hang of them cargo net(s), because they have a "long side & a short side!) then we used straps & criss-crossed them to place opposing pull force on the cargo & provide greater stability. One thing I would caution Courtney & others about is try & not have ANY twists in your straps. But hands down, chains with proper tensioning devices ARE the best for heavy equip transport as chains DON'T stretch & are hard to cut on sharp corners or areas that may chafe straps due to vibration. Sitting on a C-130 in a troop seat with a Duece & a half CHAINED to the ro-ro floor that was hanging above me made me appreciative of the strength & security of chains over straps! 😱🤷🏻♂
Can you comment on trailer weight and truck towing capability? One thing to read a brochure vs experience....seems it wud be easy to overload either trailer or truck!
Rhino liner it , you can spray it on it, they sell it in cans at auto parts store
Just my opinion, I would not secure any kind of equipment to a trailer with straps. Chains and ratchet binders would be more appropriate.
All depends on the equipment! 4 straps holding a utility tractor down is actually overkill. Tractor is less than 5k lbs and has 12k of straps. The time is cut at least in half or more strapping it down using straps also! But heavy equipment, chains and binders are the way to go
If it touches any metal that's not rounded I use chains. Ratchet straps are fine if not as long as you check them often. I use straps that go over the front wheels that attach to my bolted down E-Track for the front and chains with binders in the rear. The chains take all heavy forward load in the event of an accident.
At least with the rear you use one chain if it's long enough with 2 binders. Could probably do the same on the front.
@@treemonkey_ma1718 It would actually be 6k at the bottom side and possibly 9k at the top. Connecting directly to the tractor with straps or chains the WLL is cut in half. Only get full WLL if it doesn't connect to the item being secured and both sides of the trailer.
Your videos are great.
Say, have you done any videos on flail mowers for a 1 & 2 (1025r,2028r) series JD tractors ?
Couldn’t find any.
Also do you sell flail mowers?
Thanks
Can you do a startup and video tour of all your tractors and show how to operate it
Loading on the hill at your place wasnt the problem. The problem was the trl ramps didnt have supports to keep the back of trl from diving down. My trl had a wood dovetail that got slippery when even damp. One year at my show went up my ramps and up my dovetail and back down my dovetail without touching my clutch. I now have redone the dovetail with angle iron. I now need to build a center ramp
I always heard chains in the back to keep the load from meeting you in the front if you have to stop quick.
Truck axle off the ground😎 Been there, done that! Only once!
Courtney, were your parked, is the trailer level? If so, How about doing a "how to level" your deck video? I imagine itd be easier up there so we dont have to get down on our knees. ( X749 all wheel steer)
Make sure your truck is left in 4wd too when loading. If the rear tires do come off the ground, at least you’ll have something giving resistance.
Two addtional words: Wheel chocks
What do you do with your old ratchets? I've been looking for just the ratchet part for my cattle barn.
I put them in my recycling bin.
How about folding down the ROP?
I noticed that your 2032R in this video appears to have wider front tire than my 2038R R4 tire? I need/ want wider front tire for my 2038R. suggestions?
I think the front wheels are reversible, but can't recall for sure.
Put a cleaves in the drawbar.
Do you recommend goose neck or tongue trailers when hauling equipment? I'm looking to get a trailer to haul my compact tractor and various implements.
I've had both and it would be tough to go back to a bumper pull.
I pulled several bumper pull trailers over the last 30 years. I have had a gooseneck for the last five and would not consider going back.
never load a trailer with the truck facing down hill Uphill works much better
Good video for first time trailer buyers. I will however disagree with your statement about “aluminum trailers not holding up.”
As with steel trailers, all aluminum trailers are obviously not equally built.
Your powder coated PJ will still show corrosion sooner or later.
EBY trailers are #1 in all aluminum equipment trailers. Check them out when you have a minute.
I did a review on my aluminum trailer. It was falling apart. Welds cracking all over the place.
@@GoodWorksTractors Probably more the fault of the manufacturer than aluminum. Good, aircraft grade aluminum with properly prepared & placed welds are perfectly durable & have been for DECADES in the aircraft industry. Poor preparation & welding techniques can also be a problem for steel equip. Just look at the number of large interstate trucking companies that have aluminum trailers. Do you think they would buy something faulty & waste their money? Yes, pound for pound, steel does beat aluminum for strength, yet the trade-off is more weight, ergo less fuel-efficient. Remember the "Six P's". P👁ss Poor Planning Prevents Perfect Performance! 😉
Lower the ROPS.
I don't lower mine, but I measure the height and watch for low clearance signs
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I have always coated my trailers in used engine oil it doesn't help with being slick but it soaks in good and protects well plus it's free and recycling
Boiled linseed oil is a FAR better alternative that doesn't pollute & expose you to heavy metals! Place your used engine/transfer case/gearbox oil where it should go! In the recycler's tank! Boiled linseed oil is also great for wooden ax/tool handles, a tip my farm-boy dad taught me! When dry, it isn't slippery & helps prevent splinters & keeps the wood strong & not brittle.
@@ChestyPullerFan it takes about 2 gallons of oil for my trailer and it's free. It would take alot of cans of linseed oil which is not free. A few thin coats and the oil soaks in nicely once dry it doesn't drip and run everywhere. For furniture and hand tools I agree boiled linseed oil is nice or Danish oil.
Only thing I would disagree with here is how you secured the bucket. I don't follow your thought on that. To me you didn't really secure it. More like your putting pressure on the bucket trying to pull it off. I have always gone across the bucket so that the strap is pulling the bucket down onto the trailer.
Has your bucket ever come off when full of dirt or when pallet forks are instead or a grapple with a log? It's a secure attachment point.
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I love that place!
Wish I would have been smart enough to back off the trailer. Truck rolled down the hill and jackknifed causing several thousand dollars in damage
Trailer whip is a difficult and dangerous problem. I think every trailer should have a decal about it. If you do experience trailer whip, DON'T brake!
The manufacturers should include center of weight points for common configurations. Hard to figure where the center is on a tractor with attachments.
Axle straps are easy in my experience.
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position load forward as far as the tow vehicle will allow!
@@rdeanbenson217 www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/80/Learn-How-To-Load-And-Haul-A-Trailer-Safely/