Thanks for this review, looking forward to the follow up after the ice climbing season... I'm especially interested im the robustness and the warmth of the boots as I'm considering them for Aconcagua next winter.
I just had them out this morning in sub zero temps, they are toasty. I'll definitely have a follow up in a few months to let people know how they hold up.
Any additional thoughts or revelations since your video? I should be getting my pair shortly, but unfortunately have a nastily tight turn around to decide whether to take them out for a winter Rainier adventure
@@letmewatch55 The best thing about this boot is its warmth to weight ratio Id imagine it might be the best boot on the market in that regard, Mammut claims it is. Ive not climbed Rainier but from my experience with this boot and what Ive heard about Rainier this boot would be perfect. Id say go for it.
Hi Joseph and thanks for the video. I actually have the boot, have climbed Rainier in it and use in Colorado in the winter training for Denali. I have two main issues to report and one of them I wanted to ask if you ran into it/solved. The first - on the outer shell you have those loop straps that help you pull the boot on over the liner. In my boot one of them just came off. It wasn't attached well enough to the shell. easy fix in this case. The one thing I struggle with is how hard it is for me to get into the shell once I have the liner on my foot. It takes a real big effort to get it on. I might be getting a bit better at it but yesterday morning after a night outdoor with the boot frozen without having a proper place for me to sit to put the boot on, it was a big struggle to just get going. Have you run into this? How do you find the entry with the liner on into the outer shell?
I agree the pull tabs are weak, I find that to be the case on a lot of footwear these days I've learned to be gentle with them. As for the difficulty of putting them on I don't have any tricks really its easier for me to put the liner in first them my foot I understand that's not always a reasonable thing to do. I guess I don't have an answer just struggle haha.
I swapped the toe bail on my Petzl Sarken's with a set of "Fil Small" bails. Much better contact with the toe groove on my Scarpa Phantom Guides, which have a narrow toe like these boots. My boots are an 11.5.
That smoke detector is fake news. I bought it straight from Mammut. I think that they may be out of them, they don't really list it on the website you have to type it into the search bar. I know it's been tough keeping up with demand this year.
Thanks Joseph...subscribed because I am curious for your next review. I actually got rid of a new pair of phantom techs because the material on the heel was so much softer than other boots, that the heel piece of the crampon really hurt in those boots. I like a stiff ankle. If these fit a pair of BD snaggletooths would probably fit my stingers as well.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I think they would fit a Stinger pretty well. To be honest though I think a lot of these new boots with such aggressive rocker in the sole and the way the heel profile is are not well suited for existing crampons. I think something like the Bladerunner is what they really need. I imagine BD and Petzl have something along those lines in the works they are crazy if they don't.
@@josephwdutton yeah it seems bookmakers value walkability over other things such as the old, flat style. Looking closer, the rise on the toe of that boot is insane. And for a double boot, it’s light enough to go head to head with the single gaiter boots made by others. I may have missed it in the video: how is the heel? does your heel lock down well for ice climbing? I have not climbed in double boots yet, and I am worried by reports of sloppy heels in phantom 6000 or G2sm. but if this heel stays put like a good fitting single boot, it could be a real quiver killer
@@wlcrutch the heel stays put pretty well. I have been mixed climbing a decent amount with this boot and the snaggletooth they are very solid the downside for that is that its a little bulky but you wouldn't know from the weight. they are so light for how warm they are. The snaggletooth kinda sits off to the side just a hair but its not a problem at all. Again I have a feeling that a crampon like the bladerunner would solve most of the miner problems I have with crampon fit.
Updates on the boot? Wondering how it is in terms of warmth compared to the other boots you mentioned like Scarpa/La Sportiva? Im new to mountaineering and was considering their single boot - Norwand Knit High. But, I think a double would be more used as I want to go more around the shoulder seasons. My feet get cold. The Knit was very easy to walk in when I tried it, would this be similar? I probably wont be doing 5-6,000m peaks. More around the 3-4,000m. Potentially up to 5,000 and Antarctica if I am able to manage a job out there (they require double boots). Most of my mountaineering would be shoulder seasons and summer. Hopefully not dipping below -20C or so.
Hey Joe, first of all. Thank you for doing this review. I live in a place where I cannot go to the store and look at one of these so, it's helpful. Now that you've had the boot for a few seasons, how is it holding up over time? Also, is this boot water proof? There isn't gortex but does it matter? The website says a "waterproof zipper" so I'm assuming the rest of the shell is water proof? I have the Sarken crampon with the toe bar instead of the net. Thoughts on that working/not working on the toe? Do you have any updated remarks about the warmth of the boot? Have you had any instances of sweaty feet, if so, how do they dry out overnight?
Tim, they are pretty waterproof I would say comparable to what you would expect from gore tex. stepping in a brook quick or water running down a climb isn't a problem. I wouldn't stand in a puddle though. My feeling is that you would be fine with your crampons but don't sue me if I'm wrong my snaggletooths don't fit perfectly but if you really crank them down they work. The boot is very warm. My feet don't sweat much so I don't really have a problem but if you know you have sweaty feet I wouldn't suggest these in temps above the teens.
Yes that is exactly the case. I thought I wouldn't really like it but the system works really well. You can tighten and loosen the boot quickly as needed
I'm looking for a mountaineering boot to take me on climbs in the Sierra and Pacific Northwest. Currently I've just been using some 3 season boots, which usually result in cold feet in the winter and obviously suck for kicking. Now that you have had this boot for a while, would you recommend it for a use like that, or would you step down to something like Nepals? My biggest concern is that they could be too warm for spring climbs but I'd rather be too warm than too cold.
It sounds like this boot will be a dramatic step up from what you have. If I had to guess it will be too warm for you. It may also be too bulky, this is a very light boot but it is large. I don't know your situation completely but you may possibly want to look at a boot like the La Sportiva Trango tower extreme or the Scarpa mount blanc. However if you want a dedicated winter/cold weather technical climbing boot I do think this is the best on the market right now
@@drummerxx91 Thanks man, that's why I did the review Its kind of annoying how little is out there about this boot. I almost didn't buy it but I'm glad I did.
Thanks for this review, looking forward to the follow up after the ice climbing season... I'm especially interested im the robustness and the warmth of the boots as I'm considering them for Aconcagua next winter.
I just had them out this morning in sub zero temps, they are toasty. I'll definitely have a follow up in a few months to let people know how they hold up.
Hi, i also consider this boots for 5000-6000 peaks, not sure if scarpa phantom tech will be warmth
Any additional thoughts or revelations since your video? I should be getting my pair shortly, but unfortunately have a nastily tight turn around to decide whether to take them out for a winter Rainier adventure
@@letmewatch55 The best thing about this boot is its warmth to weight ratio Id imagine it might be the best boot on the market in that regard, Mammut claims it is. Ive not climbed Rainier but from my experience with this boot and what Ive heard about Rainier this boot would be perfect. Id say go for it.
@@josephwdutton hey im doing rainier and matterhorn this year could i do that with this boot
New 2023 scarpa phantom 6000 is pretty the same as this especially the liner but scarpa doesn't trust boa in mountainiering boots yet
Thanks for your review. Looking to retire my koflach. I'm stoked to see a removable liner.
How have they held up over the past 2 years?
Hi Joseph and thanks for the video. I actually have the boot, have climbed Rainier in it and use in Colorado in the winter training for Denali.
I have two main issues to report and one of them I wanted to ask if you ran into it/solved.
The first - on the outer shell you have those loop straps that help you pull the boot on over the liner. In my boot one of them just came off. It wasn't attached well enough to the shell. easy fix in this case.
The one thing I struggle with is how hard it is for me to get into the shell once I have the liner on my foot. It takes a real big effort to get it on. I might be getting a bit better at it but yesterday morning after a night outdoor with the boot frozen without having a proper place for me to sit to put the boot on, it was a big struggle to just get going.
Have you run into this? How do you find the entry with the liner on into the outer shell?
I agree the pull tabs are weak, I find that to be the case on a lot of footwear these days I've learned to be gentle with them. As for the difficulty of putting them on I don't have any tricks really its easier for me to put the liner in first them my foot I understand that's not always a reasonable thing to do. I guess I don't have an answer just struggle haha.
Any heel lift ?
Such a sick shoe, I really wish it was t the price of a small house but I guess quality is top top top
I swapped the toe bail on my Petzl Sarken's with a set of "Fil Small" bails. Much better contact with the toe groove on my Scarpa Phantom Guides, which have a narrow toe like these boots. My boots are an 11.5.
nice. I got a pair of BD Snaggletooths and put the small toe bail on, they fit pretty well.
Great review. Change the battery on your smoke detector. Where did you buy it? Can't find them for sale anywhere.
That smoke detector is fake news. I bought it straight from Mammut. I think that they may be out of them, they don't really list it on the website you have to type it into the search bar. I know it's been tough keeping up with demand this year.
Thanks Joseph...subscribed because I am curious for your next review. I actually got rid of a new pair of phantom techs because the material on the heel was so much softer than other boots, that the heel piece of the crampon really hurt in those boots. I like a stiff ankle. If these fit a pair of BD snaggletooths would probably fit my stingers as well.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I think they would fit a Stinger pretty well. To be honest though I think a lot of these new boots with such aggressive rocker in the sole and the way the heel profile is are not well suited for existing crampons. I think something like the Bladerunner is what they really need. I imagine BD and Petzl have something along those lines in the works they are crazy if they don't.
@@josephwdutton yeah it seems bookmakers value walkability over other things such as the old, flat style. Looking closer, the rise on the toe of that boot is insane. And for a double boot, it’s light enough to go head to head with the single gaiter boots made by others. I may have missed it in the video: how is the heel? does your heel lock down well for ice climbing? I have not climbed in double boots yet, and I am worried by reports of sloppy heels in phantom 6000 or G2sm. but if this heel stays put like a good fitting single boot, it could be a real quiver killer
@@wlcrutch the heel stays put pretty well. I have been mixed climbing a decent amount with this boot and the snaggletooth they are very solid the downside for that is that its a little bulky but you wouldn't know from the weight. they are so light for how warm they are. The snaggletooth kinda sits off to the side just a hair but its not a problem at all. Again I have a feeling that a crampon like the bladerunner would solve most of the miner problems I have with crampon fit.
Updates on the boot?
Wondering how it is in terms of warmth compared to the other boots you mentioned like Scarpa/La Sportiva?
Im new to mountaineering and was considering their single boot - Norwand Knit High.
But, I think a double would be more used as I want to go more around the shoulder seasons. My feet get cold.
The Knit was very easy to walk in when I tried it, would this be similar?
I probably wont be doing 5-6,000m peaks. More around the 3-4,000m. Potentially up to 5,000 and Antarctica if I am able to manage a job out there (they require double boots).
Most of my mountaineering would be shoulder seasons and summer. Hopefully not dipping below -20C or so.
Hey Joe, first of all. Thank you for doing this review. I live in a place where I cannot go to the store and look at one of these so, it's helpful. Now that you've had the boot for a few seasons, how is it holding up over time? Also, is this boot water proof? There isn't gortex but does it matter? The website says a "waterproof zipper" so I'm assuming the rest of the shell is water proof? I have the Sarken crampon with the toe bar instead of the net. Thoughts on that working/not working on the toe?
Do you have any updated remarks about the warmth of the boot? Have you had any instances of sweaty feet, if so, how do they dry out overnight?
Tim, they are pretty waterproof I would say comparable to what you would expect from gore tex. stepping in a brook quick or water running down a climb isn't a problem. I wouldn't stand in a puddle though. My feeling is that you would be fine with your crampons but don't sue me if I'm wrong my snaggletooths don't fit perfectly but if you really crank them down they work. The boot is very warm. My feet don't sweat much so I don't really have a problem but if you know you have sweaty feet I wouldn't suggest these in temps above the teens.
how did these climb ice as compared to the g5, phantom tech, Nepal evo, etc?
I've never climbed in any of those boots so i don't know
Thank you. Can you tell me about the dual BOA? Does one tighten the lower and one the upper part of the boot?
Yes that is exactly the case. I thought I wouldn't really like it but the system works really well. You can tighten and loosen the boot quickly as needed
I'm looking for a mountaineering boot to take me on climbs in the Sierra and Pacific Northwest. Currently I've just been using some 3 season boots, which usually result in cold feet in the winter and obviously suck for kicking. Now that you have had this boot for a while, would you recommend it for a use like that, or would you step down to something like Nepals? My biggest concern is that they could be too warm for spring climbs but I'd rather be too warm than too cold.
It sounds like this boot will be a dramatic step up from what you have. If I had to guess it will be too warm for you. It may also be too bulky, this is a very light boot but it is large. I don't know your situation completely but you may possibly want to look at a boot like the La Sportiva Trango tower extreme or the Scarpa mount blanc. However if you want a dedicated winter/cold weather technical climbing boot I do think this is the best on the market right now
Thanks for the review! Any update on these after doing some climbing?
I just filmed a video I will post it tomorrow.
Is the liner in this heat moldable?
It is not advertised as such. I don't think you would gain anything from heating this liner.
@@josephwdutton i appreciate the response! Thanks also for reviewing this. There isn't much info out there.
@@drummerxx91 Thanks man, that's why I did the review Its kind of annoying how little is out there about this boot. I almost didn't buy it but I'm glad I did.
Why is the focus on the wall and not the shoe? Where is the light?
Sorry, but it's not a good movie about a shoe if you can't see it at all.
Hello, I am Turkish. I couldn't find this shoe in our country and I need it. How can you send it to me? can you gift me?