You've really done a very good job describing the basics. I already knew all of this, but I'm always up to hear someone describe it so that I can point others to a good video, and I will keep yours on file because you did such a good job.
This is a very interesting approach to explain what is actually quite a complicated subject (but which is second nature to experienced photographers). The information might still be overwhelming to newbies. The only alternative for them would be to watch several videos explaining each parameter in turn, if they have the interest and commitment to do this. Otherwise I guess it's simpler to leave the camera on auto mode :-) I approve of this channel which has a different approach. I don't know the presenter's background but it seems to be pretty solid.
Actually there is a fourth way to influence picture brightness. It is the +/- setting, which can be seen between apperture and ISO @12:09. It is called "exposure compensation". It is not a direct exposure setting on its own but influences any of the automatic mode settings for shutterspeed, stop and/or ISO by stepping up or down the measured value of the light sensor. It is an easy way to make your shot darker or lighter while still keeping one or more settings on auto.
That's a different problem and/or topic though, isn't it? This video is about "how to make your pictures exposed at a certain EV", 0 being by default desired most of the time. If I want my pictures to be +/- X EV, I can adjust my camera to aim for that (in any "priority mode" of my choosing), but all of these same principles still apply exactly as described, and I need to understand them just as much.
Comprehensive and just the right level and amount of info. With good practical examples. Good work! I've saved this video as a reference for later if I ever need to just have a little refresher on the topic
The 180° rule is about blocking, not shutter angle. There's nothing that says that 180° is best. Also, a lot of cameras "prefer" 172.8° (or 172.6°). Don't let yourself become trapped at 180°.
For human eyes, I guess they can change the aperture. Do you know if they also change the shutter? Your videos are incredible. Such a good storytelling, from big into small.. I don't really get why you have so 'few' views, but I think it can only be a matter of time until you blow up.
Human eyes don't really have a "shutter speed" in the way we usually think of it. The eyes provide a continuous stream of information to the brain, they don't divide things up into discrete chunks of information like cameras do
I know it's about the image now (thank's, man, well explained! - as per usual), but let me dumb-digress: how to strengthen the audio signal on the input so that it would upstage the noise in the output?
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you're underrated asf keep it up
The best introduction to the subject I ever seen. It's simple but gives a good base to understand exposure in more depth.
Very clear explanation / diagrams / animations. For all levels of experience. Well done
excellent! and, I like your assistant!
What a clear explanation.thanks bud
love your explanations.
very well explained. clear concise and entertaining to boot. thanks again
very intuitive explanation, thank you!
Brilliant! Best explanation ever!
You´re videos are nice!! Keep doing, please!
You've really done a very good job describing the basics. I already knew all of this, but I'm always up to hear someone describe it so that I can point others to a good video, and I will keep yours on file because you did such a good job.
Keep it up my dude. you are straight to the point and the graphics are good and intuitive.
This is a very interesting approach to explain what is actually quite a complicated subject (but which is second nature to experienced photographers). The information might still be overwhelming to newbies. The only alternative for them would be to watch several videos explaining each parameter in turn, if they have the interest and commitment to do this. Otherwise I guess it's simpler to leave the camera on auto mode :-)
I approve of this channel which has a different approach. I don't know the presenter's background but it seems to be pretty solid.
Actually there is a fourth way to influence picture brightness. It is the +/- setting, which can be seen between apperture and ISO @12:09. It is called "exposure compensation". It is not a direct exposure setting on its own but influences any of the automatic mode settings for shutterspeed, stop and/or ISO by stepping up or down the measured value of the light sensor.
It is an easy way to make your shot darker or lighter while still keeping one or more settings on auto.
That's a different problem and/or topic though, isn't it? This video is about "how to make your pictures exposed at a certain EV", 0 being by default desired most of the time. If I want my pictures to be +/- X EV, I can adjust my camera to aim for that (in any "priority mode" of my choosing), but all of these same principles still apply exactly as described, and I need to understand them just as much.
Comprehensive and just the right level and amount of info. With good practical examples. Good work! I've saved this video as a reference for later if I ever need to just have a little refresher on the topic
Love your stuff man, great channel for deep dives. Keep up the great work man!
The 180° rule is about blocking, not shutter angle. There's nothing that says that 180° is best. Also, a lot of cameras "prefer" 172.8° (or 172.6°). Don't let yourself become trapped at 180°.
For human eyes, I guess they can change the aperture. Do you know if they also change the shutter?
Your videos are incredible. Such a good storytelling, from big into small.. I don't really get why you have so 'few' views, but I think it can only be a matter of time until you blow up.
Human eyes don't really have a "shutter speed" in the way we usually think of it. The eyes provide a continuous stream of information to the brain, they don't divide things up into discrete chunks of information like cameras do
Don't be afraid to raise ISO when needed. Also I prefer to have the shutter speed the same as fps in low-light conditions
I know it's about the image now (thank's, man, well explained! - as per usual), but let me dumb-digress: how to strengthen the audio signal on the input so that it would upstage the noise in the output?
👏
🤩 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐦𝐨𝐬𝐦