My man you outdid yourself! Thanks a million for taking the time some of us don't have to perform these tests. I'm glad to see that my go-to Pledge didn't disappoint. For the price, everyone should get a bottle. Thanks again and cheers!👍
I did my Mando helmet in Alclad II Chrome. I used the Alcad Aqua Gloss to seal and protect it. The Aquagloss does kind of dull the chrome due to the fact that it dries very porous. After the aquagloss dried, I went over that with 2K Clear. It brought back a lot of the chrome luster(about 70%) because it settles into the porous areas of the aquagloss and still dries smooth as glass, and made my mando helmet look awesome.
That E7 is very impressive. As others have mentioned Id like to see it over Molotow airbrushed that would be a very handy video. Thank you so much for doing these reviews they truly are invaluable
I know this is an older post, but thanks again! I have spent a year testing various chromes, golds, and trying to find a clear that will not kill the chrome effect. I would love to see you compile all your chrome, golds, and clearcoats, into a face off. Which of the best is THE BEST! Both for ease and cost.
Rex, love your videos! Very informative and well presented. I am a retired USAF Pilot and have started building model aircraft at the age of 67! I love it. I have gotten Alclad II paints but have only used it on 2 aircraft with mixed results. I found out one thing for sure. Do all your glue up before you apply Alclad even when you Aqua gloss it because Tamiya thin cement immediately eats through the finish upon the slightest touch!
Here I am a novice air brush user and started this month with ABrushing. Wanted to paint a model in Chrome. LHS (Vancouver Canada) recommends Alclad II Chrome. I didn't by Alclad Clear though as he said I didn't need to. I did buy Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss Varnish from another shop and didn't know if that would work over the Alclad. Your video just proved it does. Thank you for doing what you do. 🙏 You are so willing to share your experience with the YT community and that is... priceless. Thanks again!
I've been using pledge floor gloss over my chromes for a while now. I mixed some food dyes and alcohol dyes in it too to mimick candy paints for my PokeBall. Pledge is so good for the price.
Excellent video! Takeway: Acrylic over solvent-based metallic. (Been painting since the 1970's so learned this early on after spending many hours painting a Late Imperial Roman vexellum of Constantine using metallic paint; let it dry 2 days; sprayed with a solvent-based gloss and watched the metallic reactivate and begin to run! Since then, always coated first with a good gloss acrylic and never had an issue again.) There are some excellent metallic paints and pigments coming out of Spain from Vallejo Metal Color and Green Stuff metal pigments.
I use to be a cleaner. We strip and seal floors. The sealer was a milky colour, but dry clear. U got remember the amount people walk across the floor. There different quality of sealer. I remember looked like glass. I watch people walk across, thinking they were going slip over. But it was over double the price. Great video mate, cheers Graham
FWIW activated carbon filters should be put into a zip lock bag to ensure the activated carbon stays active for as long as possible. HOWEVER with lacquer or non catalyzed paints it is really not very much of an issue. YOUR local autobody supplier (mine is FINISHMASTERS) has 3m paint respirators in a variety of sizes for approx $25. For an airbrush I love my trigger operated IWATA NEO - $125 at Hobby Lobby.
Pledge floor gloss has recently been discontinued. Have there been any other developments for quick price efficient gloss alternatives?? The prices for it are through the roof so double checking before I spend any money.
There's so much out there products wise and can be very confusing for the humble beginner like me ! Your video's are just fantastic and the testing results will certainly help me on the right direction for my modelling techniques and finish results.Looking forward of seeing the pledge revive it floor gloss full review.
Very useful. Clear coats became a fixation to me. But quality today is awesome in general compared to the 90's. I have clear coats that became totally yellow. And other clear coats the never dried (they were all enamels those days except tamiya acrylics) One note. I bought Microgloss years ago because I read a tutorial that was very positive about it. The days after the purchase I read another tutorial saying the opposite! You proved to anyone that is a quite good clear coat instead! Sometimes people says bad thing about products just because they are not good in painting. IMHO
8ve been using it for 20 years. I use Tamiya paints. So when I'm done, I'll spray a little Tamiya lacquer thinner thru the brush then Windex. Never had an issue.
I picked up the Vallejo Polyurethane gloss clear based on this review, and it's pretty amazing! Thinned 50:50 with Golden Airbrush Medium and it levels out so beautifully that you can get a mirror finish without even polishing. I can't see any difference in shine over any of my metallic or chrome paints. Definitely a winner - thanks for the review!
Testor's Model Master is gone, Rust-O-Rum discontinued the line of paints. I loved these paints. They're only keeping the Enamel line (small square bottles) of paints. Carbon filters or 2 stage filters are for paint fumes (paint V.O.C.s). Single stage filters are mostly dust only filtration. Read the box or call manufacturer to ask. Use listings on box not always clear. Most masks have sizes - small, medium & large. AK Gauzy Intermediate Shine used by Matchbox & Hot Wheels restorers after polishing windshields to add clarity. My experience with solvent based clears is they attack top layer of metallic paints. Acrylics don't. I use the UV Cut clear for my outdoor train models. UV light breaks down the chemical bond causing yellowing & flaking. My airbrushes are Passche, Grex & Chinese made brands.
As a follow up Barbatos Rex, I have been experimenting with using a very light coat of Aqua Gloss to "seal" chrome paints (AK Extreme Metal Chrome), and then go over with a 2K clear gloss. It seems to work well, giving a durable chrome finish, but I am still wary about the health issues associated with 2K clears (Even with using a spray booth & respirator mask). There is lots to be said for keeping things simple!
Vallejo polyurethane failed for me. It made the chrome cloudy. Most of it wiped off like dust but killed much of the reflectivity. I asked Vallejo what happened and they suggested the high solvents in Alclad didn't play nice with the polyurethane.
Thanks, I do these based on what I personally want to know myself. There's so many products for each step of model building you always just want to get the best for the job. Seeing them play out in real time is the best way for that 👍
I think the E7 is actually better than the original. Glad I found your channel, I have figures like silver surfer and swords I've chromed with a chrome pen, but couldn't find a way to seal them without dulling. I just don't touch them at all, in areas where a blemish is not so noticeable.
Try a water based Acrylic clear (on scrap). For me they have held up over time & skin oils may be wiped off with a microfiber cloth. My experience, water based clears don't "attack" silver or chrome paints. I also tried a white stain on wood window trim with a water based polyurethane. The clear did not yellow the white stain as solvent based clears did over time.
I know people are asking about Molotov and I know that I am really happy with the fact that it has a great look initially but if I so much as look at it after the initial application all bets are off and the chrome has fizzled away to a more aluminum finish this is after accidentally making contact with it or trying to brush it on don’t know if it was meant for hand painting, but if you are inclined to do something including hand painted Molotov it would be nice to see.
I'm gonna get the pledge then. The amount you get is ideal for me because of this helmet I'm working on. Thanks for the video! EDIT: Actually nevermind. It's discontinued. Any left in stock are sold at insanely high prices
Chrome finishes are just too delicate and lacquer thinners are too hot. Lacquers always damage the chrome and turn it into more of a metal flake or candy base. I actually plan to do a whole car in a candy over chrome for a future build and my tests show I have to put an aqua gloss between the candy and the chrome. This was a really handy video. I may have to investigate that Vallejo Poly. I usually avoid Vallejo for airbrushing. Thanks for all the info.
where can i find the gloss black primer? i'm considering using vallejo's because i simply can't find Alclad's, but will vallejo's primer work with these paints?
I'm currently in the testing phase of Astands and AK chrome. Planning to do clear coat testing next week once the paint dries. Will use the Klear Kote Gloss and the Gunze Supergloss 3. Gonna wet sand them and polish them if they dull the shine.
Great review again Rex. Very impressed with both the E7 and Future. BTW future is so hard to find here in Australia and I finally found a supplier but $40A a bottle .. ouch. i had a look at the E7 range of paints online and they have a very comprehensive range so looking forward to your test of these. Thanks again for all your work you do to keep us all informed.
I just had very distressing flash backs because of that Pledge floor polish. When I did my phase 1 army training we were made to clean our shared room with toothbrushes (this was a very large room) and when we'd cleaned the floor we had to polish it with that polish. We had to polish the floor using no more than one sheet of toilet roll, if we used that sheet (which is inevitable as wet big roll falls apart and goes even faster if you rub it against something) we were given another sheet but only after we'd earned it by doing 200 press ups! I couldn't lift my arms for days after this, it was a ery inventive way of ensuring that no one in that platoon got really drunk while on leave! Sod you Corporal Beasley!
It seems that water-based clears are the best since they do not have solvents that damage the chrome. Try some water-based polyurethane for wood that you can find inexpensive at your local home supply stores.
I think your right. I read that somewhere, however the best one here, the E7, I thought was a lacquer as that's all the company produces for their paints. I'll have to double check on that. The E7 Chrome Sealer is a solvent base I know that
Gday, thanks for the video. I come to your video late but confirms my thoughts. I am going to use an Alclad type Autopaint for a car body kit. Everyone complains of dulling on clear coat. I have come to the conclusion to prime, 2k black gloss base, chrome paint, water based clear coat, 2k clearcoat.
The main problem with any solvent based clear is that it has a tendency to lift the metallic finish it sits on. ive learned this the hard way. Its because to make the metallic paint look metallic, it doesnt have the a strong binding agent to keep the particles down. That vehicle used for the metallic just isnt strong enough to withstand any enamels or lacquers and their solvents. Ive learned this the hard way with non model projects too. Before i watched this i was going to put my money on any of the water based acrylics especially the pledge. It doesnt attack the metallic paint below it and dries clear and shiny. Im willing to bet Polycrylic would work pretty well.
Target, Walmart, Safeway, Costco you name it. Looked for that Pledge everywhere and was finally lucky enough to find one last bottle in a local hardware store in SF. I think it was 9.99 but who cares still great value. Now that I see it’s discontinued, I’m gonna have to use the rest of it sparingly.
Another clear finish to try is Minwax Polycrylic (thinned 15% with water for spraying). Haven't tried it myself yet but reports say results are good over chrome.
I bet you have an absurd amount of paint and supply’s! I literally can’t imagine how many full lines of paint you have in a box somewhere. Love these videos, keep it up!
Many, many thanks. Picked up some E7 as I use pretty much only lacquer and very rarely do chrome but when I do👍. The bottom line seems that water or alcohol base tends not to break down the smooth finish but what do I know 😖. Thanks again👍
For those needing to know more information about respirators, one size does not fit all. Just like clothes they come in small, medium, large and XL-large. In other words these masks/respirators have to be fitted to your face.
Loving these vids, BR! I have yet to have good luck with lawn furniture paint on my model cars. I tested a gloss yellow several times on an old hood with Krylon and had poor results. Gloss looked like semi gloss.
Hi, Thank you so much for your effort making this video. Will this test result translate over to 'clear coating clear parts to make them more transparent'? Espacially that e7 chrome sealer you showed. BTW, did e7 chrome sealer turned yellow over time?
Hey Barbatos! Have you tried the Alclad alc303? I know it is a clear base but its an enamel like the candy colors from Alclad. I'm thinking about picking it up and trying it as I'm having really bad luck with the aqua gloss.
@@statoilbensin2190 - I can't speak to any particular chrome paint, but I've generally heard that all of the ones that actually look like chrome can have the effect spoiled by your skin oils if you touch them. Whatever they have to do to get a true chrome look seems to make them rather delicate and finicky... Which is why even just clearcoating them can often ruin the look, as demonstrated in this video.
Great 👍 video 📹 love the information 👌 I'm new to this airbrushing I do diecast cars 🚗 I was wondering do you have a video on how to decan a clear spray can
Have you ever applied the Alclad Matte Clear Coat to a chrome finish? Always wondered what the actual finished product would look like. Can't seem to find any videos of Alclads Airframe Alluminum and Alclad Matte Clear. Any interest? ☺ Also love your videos, learning a lot and super grateful for the content. 🙌
I tested Alclad Aircraft Aluminum here. It's a favorite of mine. I did spray matte clear over chrome pieces and it comes out like aluminum or a flat silver
This was a FANTASTIC cover! I have been fighting this top coat killing chrome shine dilemma . This ANSWERED my questions. Spaz stix also has a ULTIMATE Clear coat for chrome. But was said to kill the shine. Thanks a heap...new to your videos. STLL trying to find Aquarium filter sheets...not mats. Please send a link. Cheers, Richard
So that Alclad Aqua Gloss looks good for for everything. Before decals? Before weathering with enamels & washes? For something shiny, like a car body? I love that big bottle. Maybe I’m too old, but I’m not using floor polish just on principle alone!!! (No disrespect intended, please, Sir.)
I love how informative your videos are. Thank you so much for your time and being so thorough. I was wondering If it would be possible for you to do a video on just using various floor polishes. I recently tried to find the Pledge Revie It product but it looks like it is no longer being produced. I did find it online but it's like 65 bucks. I was looking for some alternatives like Quickshine or some other readily available brands.
Have some questions: 1. About thinning. Did you thinned only MrColror RX (50:50)? Or anothers too? If yes, then which ones and in which ratio? 2. -What means 2k in AquaGlass+2k case?- - I found answer. 2k is cleat coat for real automotive. 3. You have used especial technique in another your video "How To Get A Glass Smooth Finish When Airbrushing Plastic Models"(2fast layers from 4inches, and 1 slower layer from closer distance). It differs from technique in this video(looks like 2 fast layers from close distance). Could you comment this moment please? Why do you use different techniques? 4. Pressure. You have used 15psi for Alclad Chrome and AquaGlass. What about pressure for another clears?
What is a good way to protect the candy gold without losing the finish? I want to use it on a kit I've had on the back burner for a few years now because i couldnt find the right gold but the candy gold looks perfect.
Maybe food colouring in the aqua gloss would be like candy or in the pledge. I am doing knee scallops on my gas tank and thanks for saving me time. I am using green stuff world chrome.
Amazing work again! 👍 I have to ask about the aqua gloss though: I've tried spraying it like you do (I think) but it always just dulls the finish. I think it's orange peal... Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Googling, I discovered "flow coating" for auto paint, going high pressure, close, and fast enough to just get it wet in one pass and that it seems works for me ... But what you do seems much easier with the couple light coats. Please advise!
Great review, thanks. I've been using a water based product with the generic name "Interior/Exterior Varnish" (both gloss and matte) which is Hobby Lobby's house brand I believe. I've had good luck with on car bodies; not sure how it would perform in your chrome test. It is $9.99 for an 8 ounce bottle. I'm still very new to this level of modeling which is why I appreciate all the work you do; thanks again.
Thats crazy.. haha i just wish PLedge would be sold here in Holland (Netherlands) 😥 Thanks for the time and effort you put into these video's, much appriciated !!
Hey Rex m& community. Hoping you or the further community can help me out here. I have a few dozen built RG's & HG's I sadly need to get rid of. I have converted to strictly MG's and I just have to make some room. Every one is fully stock built, no paint or changes. They are excellent+ to mint condition. The manual and all extra parts and weapons are included. NO BOX. This selection is extremely diverse and includes quite a few PBandai kits and many that are currently very hard to find. I won't let them go for free, but I will for pennies on the dollar. Obviously the $175 P Bandai Astrea Type-F will be a little more then the stock Heavy Arms. I will be happy to provide pics and a list if anyone is interested. Thanks very much.
this is a great job!! very good test… i am amazed that Pledge and Aqua gloss did better than Gauzy agent… i have Pledge, Alclad Aqua Gloss and Mr.Color GX100, but i was using Gauzy agent it for metals, somewhere i had read it was the best for metalic finishes… i am also wondering if that E7 from Taiwan would also perform well for dipping canopies and other clear parts… just ordered one from Taiwan, acording to ebay it will take 2 months to arrive to Europe… :-/
My man you outdid yourself! Thanks a million for taking the time some of us don't have to perform these tests. I'm glad to see that my go-to Pledge didn't disappoint. For the price, everyone should get a bottle. Thanks again and cheers!👍
but they are the most fragile and tend to pool along gravity. but yes my go to but with soft brush only so big areas would be tough.
you are doing god's work with these reviews!
Thanks my friend, I'm doing my best 👌
Just bought that on YOUR recommendation! You were right - it is brilliant over Molotow, you would not know it had been coated!
Thank you!
I did my Mando helmet in Alclad II Chrome. I used the Alcad Aqua Gloss to seal and protect it. The Aquagloss does kind of dull the chrome due to the fact that it dries very porous. After the aquagloss dried, I went over that with 2K Clear. It brought back a lot of the chrome luster(about 70%) because it settles into the porous areas of the aquagloss and still dries smooth as glass, and made my mando helmet look awesome.
Love 2K clear, it's like magic
@@barbatosrex9473 Rustoleum 2k ????
That E7 is very impressive.
As others have mentioned Id like to see it over Molotow airbrushed that would be a very handy video.
Thank you so much for doing these reviews they truly are invaluable
I know this is an older post, but thanks again! I have spent a year testing various chromes, golds, and trying to find a clear that will not kill the chrome effect. I would love to see you compile all your chrome, golds, and clearcoats, into a face off. Which of the best is THE BEST! Both for ease and cost.
Rex, love your videos! Very informative and well presented. I am a retired USAF Pilot and have started building model aircraft at the age of 67! I love it. I have gotten Alclad II paints but have only used it on 2 aircraft with mixed results. I found out one thing for sure. Do all your glue up before you apply Alclad even when you Aqua gloss it because Tamiya thin cement immediately eats through the finish upon the slightest touch!
For sure, Alclad is the last thing you do
Here I am a novice air brush user and started this month with ABrushing. Wanted to paint a model in Chrome. LHS (Vancouver Canada) recommends Alclad II Chrome. I didn't by Alclad Clear though as he said I didn't need to. I did buy Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss Varnish from another shop and didn't know if that would work over the Alclad. Your video just proved it does. Thank you for doing what you do. 🙏 You are so willing to share your experience with the YT community and that is... priceless. Thanks again!
I've been using pledge floor gloss over my chromes for a while now. I mixed some food dyes and alcohol dyes in it too to mimick candy paints for my PokeBall. Pledge is so good for the price.
I never considered that as a possible alternative to clear colors. Gonna have to give it a shot.
this video is so perfectly timed, I'm painting a whole lot of chromes right now and needed to know this
Excellent video!
Takeway: Acrylic over solvent-based metallic. (Been painting since the 1970's so learned this early on after spending many hours painting a Late Imperial Roman vexellum of Constantine using metallic paint; let it dry 2 days; sprayed with a solvent-based gloss and watched the metallic reactivate and begin to run! Since then, always coated first with a good gloss acrylic and never had an issue again.)
There are some excellent metallic paints and pigments coming out of Spain from Vallejo Metal Color and Green Stuff metal pigments.
Thanks for being so transparent with your viewership
I use to be a cleaner. We strip and seal floors. The sealer was a milky colour, but dry clear. U got remember the amount people walk across the floor. There different quality of sealer. I remember looked like glass. I watch people walk across, thinking they were going slip over. But it was over double the price. Great video mate, cheers Graham
FWIW activated carbon filters should be put into a zip lock bag to ensure the activated carbon stays active for as long as possible. HOWEVER with lacquer or non catalyzed paints it is really not very much of an issue. YOUR local autobody supplier (mine is FINISHMASTERS) has 3m paint respirators in a variety of sizes for approx $25.
For an airbrush I love my trigger operated IWATA NEO - $125 at Hobby Lobby.
Pledge floor gloss has recently been discontinued. Have there been any other developments for quick price efficient gloss alternatives?? The prices for it are through the roof so double checking before I spend any money.
There's so much out there products wise and can be very confusing for the humble beginner like me ! Your video's are just fantastic and the testing results will certainly help me on the right direction for my modelling techniques and finish results.Looking forward of seeing the pledge revive it floor gloss full review.
Each video I watch literally answers every question I had. Great videos.
Thanks Lenny
Very useful. Clear coats became a fixation to me. But quality today is awesome in general compared to the 90's.
I have clear coats that became totally yellow. And other clear coats the never dried (they were all enamels those days except tamiya acrylics)
One note. I bought Microgloss years ago because I read a tutorial that was very positive about it. The days after the purchase I read another tutorial saying the opposite! You proved to anyone that is a quite good clear coat instead! Sometimes people says bad thing about products just because they are not good in painting. IMHO
can't wait for the floor polish video I have one sitting in my room not being used and want to know how to clean it out my AB
8ve been using it for 20 years. I use Tamiya paints. So when I'm done, I'll spray a little Tamiya lacquer thinner thru the brush then Windex. Never had an issue.
I picked up the Vallejo Polyurethane gloss clear based on this review, and it's pretty amazing! Thinned 50:50 with Golden Airbrush Medium and it levels out so beautifully that you can get a mirror finish without even polishing. I can't see any difference in shine over any of my metallic or chrome paints. Definitely a winner - thanks for the review!
I would like to see you perform the same test with Spaz Stix and Molotow as well. Maybe even with Createx Quicksilver Chrome.
Testor's Model Master is gone, Rust-O-Rum discontinued the line of paints. I loved these paints. They're only keeping the Enamel line (small square bottles) of paints.
Carbon filters or 2 stage filters are for paint fumes (paint V.O.C.s). Single stage filters are mostly dust only filtration. Read the box or call manufacturer to ask. Use listings on box not always clear. Most masks have sizes - small, medium & large.
AK Gauzy Intermediate Shine used by Matchbox & Hot Wheels restorers after polishing windshields to add clarity.
My experience with solvent based clears is they attack top layer of metallic paints. Acrylics don't. I use the UV Cut clear for my outdoor train models. UV light breaks down the chemical bond causing yellowing & flaking.
My airbrushes are Passche, Grex & Chinese made brands.
Thanks Barbatos for the information. I will have to get some pledge for gloss coat.
Thank you!!!! What did you use for the base coat and any plans to do this with Alumaluster?
Hey Rex, great job!! This video from now is my reference in works with Alclad Chrome.
Thanks for your time and excellent explanation.
You can also use a napkin in front of your filter to catch the majority of the overspray to protect your filters.
As a follow up Barbatos Rex, I have been experimenting with using a very light coat of Aqua Gloss to "seal" chrome paints (AK Extreme Metal Chrome), and then go over with a 2K clear gloss. It seems to work well, giving a durable chrome finish, but I am still wary about the health issues associated with 2K clears (Even with using a spray booth & respirator mask). There is lots to be said for keeping things simple!
Many thanks for your time and research mate, saving us modellers untold time and mistakes 🇬🇧👍👌
Thanks buddy I'm doing my best. 👍🇺🇲
@@barbatosrex9473 one of the best model channel mate , no BS
Vallejo polyurethane failed for me. It made the chrome cloudy. Most of it wiped off like dust but killed much of the reflectivity. I asked Vallejo what happened and they suggested the high solvents in Alclad didn't play nice with the polyurethane.
Astounded again on how thorough you are in your reviews
Thanks, I do these based on what I personally want to know myself. There's so many products for each step of model building you always just want to get the best for the job. Seeing them play out in real time is the best way for that 👍
Everybody's out of stock on the E7 ....Is there anywhere you can get this stuff off the beaten path...?
Ali Express or eBay
I think the E7 is actually better than the original. Glad I found your channel, I have figures like silver surfer and swords I've chromed with a chrome pen, but couldn't find a way to seal them without dulling. I just don't touch them at all, in areas where a blemish is not so noticeable.
Try a water based Acrylic clear (on scrap). For me they have held up over time & skin oils may be wiped off with a microfiber cloth. My experience, water based clears don't "attack" silver or chrome paints. I also tried a white stain on wood window trim with a water based polyurethane. The clear did not yellow the white stain as solvent based clears did over time.
I know people are asking about Molotov and I know that I am really happy with the fact that it has a great look initially but if I so much as look at it after the initial application all bets are off and the chrome has fizzled away to a more aluminum finish this is after accidentally making contact with it or trying to brush it on don’t know if it was meant for hand painting, but if you are inclined to do something including hand painted Molotov it would be nice to see.
I'll try it over Molotow soon for you guys
I'm gonna get the pledge then. The amount you get is ideal for me because of this helmet I'm working on. Thanks for the video! EDIT: Actually nevermind. It's discontinued. Any left in stock are sold at insanely high prices
Chrome finishes are just too delicate and lacquer thinners are too hot. Lacquers always damage the chrome and turn it into more of a metal flake or candy base. I actually plan to do a whole car in a candy over chrome for a future build and my tests show I have to put an aqua gloss between the candy and the chrome. This was a really handy video. I may have to investigate that Vallejo Poly. I usually avoid Vallejo for airbrushing. Thanks for all the info.
where can i find the gloss black primer? i'm considering using vallejo's because i simply can't find Alclad's, but will vallejo's primer work with these paints?
I'm currently in the testing phase of Astands and AK chrome. Planning to do clear coat testing next week once the paint dries. Will use the Klear Kote Gloss and the Gunze Supergloss 3. Gonna wet sand them and polish them if they dull the shine.
Thanks for the reviews. By far the best.
Thank you Juan, it's much appreciated
Thanks so much for doing all this work so we don't have to. Greatly appreciated!
I just ordered some E7. I have the Aqua Gloss but it's good to have an alternative.
I knew pledge was going to perform perfectly, I've used it before also Future floor polish does good too.
Great review again Rex. Very impressed with both the E7 and Future. BTW future is so hard to find here in Australia and I finally found a supplier but $40A a bottle .. ouch.
i had a look at the E7 range of paints online and they have a very comprehensive range so looking forward to your test of these. Thanks again for all your work you do to keep us all informed.
I just had very distressing flash backs because of that Pledge floor polish.
When I did my phase 1 army training we were made to clean our shared room with toothbrushes (this was a very large room) and when we'd cleaned the floor we had to polish it with that polish. We had to polish the floor using no more than one sheet of toilet roll, if we used that sheet (which is inevitable as wet big roll falls apart and goes even faster if you rub it against something) we were given another sheet but only after we'd earned it by doing 200 press ups! I couldn't lift my arms for days after this, it was a ery inventive way of ensuring that no one in that platoon got really drunk while on leave! Sod you Corporal Beasley!
It seems that water-based clears are the best since they do not have solvents that damage the chrome.
Try some water-based polyurethane for wood that you can find inexpensive at your local home supply stores.
Do you think the thinner in the lacquer paints is reactivating the Alclad II? Seems like that might be why every lacquer gloss had the same results.
I think your right. I read that somewhere, however the best one here, the E7, I thought was a lacquer as that's all the company produces for their paints. I'll have to double check on that. The E7 Chrome Sealer is a solvent base I know that
Does this video hold up? Is E7 still your favorite?
Gday, thanks for the video. I come to your video late but confirms my thoughts. I am going to use an Alclad type Autopaint for a car body kit. Everyone complains of dulling on clear coat. I have come to the conclusion to prime, 2k black gloss base, chrome paint, water based clear coat, 2k clearcoat.
Great review as always. Thanks for taking the time to put these together, as I am sure they take a lot of work to do.
The main problem with any solvent based clear is that it has a tendency to lift the metallic finish it sits on. ive learned this the hard way. Its because to make the metallic paint look metallic, it doesnt have the a strong binding agent to keep the particles down. That vehicle used for the metallic just isnt strong enough to withstand any enamels or lacquers and their solvents. Ive learned this the hard way with non model projects too. Before i watched this i was going to put my money on any of the water based acrylics especially the pledge. It doesnt attack the metallic paint below it and dries clear and shiny. Im willing to bet Polycrylic would work pretty well.
Did you thin the Vallejo Poly gloss Urethane?
When using a needle size of 0.4mm or larger, I used a 0.5mm, then it doesn't need thinning. Is smaller needles are used then thin it slightly
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks.
Target, Walmart, Safeway, Costco you name it. Looked for that Pledge everywhere and was finally lucky enough to find one last bottle in a local hardware store in SF. I think it was 9.99 but who cares still great value. Now that I see it’s discontinued, I’m gonna have to use the rest of it sparingly.
Revive it replaced future floor polish i love it i bought the e7 a few months back it amazing always a great review thank you
Gosh, man, what a huge test :O many thanks for that!! And your revelation about E7, thanks for sharing!!
Another clear finish to try is Minwax Polycrylic (thinned 15% with water for spraying). Haven't tried it myself yet but reports say results are good over chrome.
Great test, but I was hoping to see a bumper from a car kit up against these spoons. Ultimately, that is the frame of reference for us auto builders.
thanks, i have both aqua clear and pledge and could see no difference either.
Great to see the e7 paints clear is the winner. Surprised the x22 enamel didnt work well on alclad, but works on molotow
Pledge is not produced anymore I think. So we replace it with what ?
Yes there's a replacement, it's called Quick Shine and I did a video on it here
I bet you have an absurd amount of paint and supply’s! I literally can’t imagine how many full lines of paint you have in a box somewhere. Love these videos, keep it up!
Many, many thanks. Picked up some E7 as I use pretty much only lacquer and very rarely do chrome but when I do👍. The bottom line seems that water or alcohol base tends not to break down the smooth finish but what do I know 😖. Thanks again👍
Thanks Rex….. as always!!!!!!!
You're welcome buddy 👌
For those needing to know more information about respirators, one size does not fit all. Just like clothes they come in small, medium, large and
XL-large. In other words these masks/respirators have to be fitted to your face.
Thanks for your time on this much appreciated… build on 👍
You sold me on the respirator. Just ordered it! (Currently $22.99)
It's been great. Most of the time you won't even need the extra pads, the main filters are enough for what we do.
Thank you for testing all these clears! Very helpful and informative.
I'm impressed by that E7 brand. First time I hear of it.
Loving these vids, BR! I have yet to have good luck with lawn furniture paint on my model cars. I tested a gloss yellow several times on an old hood with Krylon and had poor results. Gloss looked like semi gloss.
really cant believe the Vallejo gloss varnish looks so good, i dont know what i did wrong when i tried it a few years ago as mine looked awful
Hi, Thank you so much for your effort making this video.
Will this test result translate over to 'clear coating clear parts to make them more transparent'?
Espacially that e7 chrome sealer you showed.
BTW, did e7 chrome sealer turned yellow over time?
Very interesting vidéo... I am a lure maker and clearcoat on chrome is a pita
Thank you for sharing...
Your chrome tests are the best, u can also do another coat of chrome over the duller gloss spoons to get the chrome back.
Hey Barbatos! Have you tried the Alclad alc303? I know it is a clear base but its an enamel like the candy colors from Alclad. I'm thinking about picking it up and trying it as I'm having really bad luck with the aqua gloss.
could you do something like this for molotow? i've been hoping for any information on a good protector for it that doesn't fog or cloud it up.
Another vote for this! Molotow looks fantastic airbrushed but I've yet to find anything that protects it without dulling the shine.
You dont need to protect solvent paint
@@statoilbensin2190 Molotow isn't a solvent paint, it's an ink.
@@statoilbensin2190 - I can't speak to any particular chrome paint, but I've generally heard that all of the ones that actually look like chrome can have the effect spoiled by your skin oils if you touch them. Whatever they have to do to get a true chrome look seems to make them rather delicate and finicky... Which is why even just clearcoating them can often ruin the look, as demonstrated in this video.
@@JCPRuckus yep hard to grab a 57 Bel air when you chromed the whole thing lol unless you grab by the wheels
Great test! You missed one: alkyd UV clear (i used it for a car rims)
The Pledge seems to work for everything. Good video.
Thank you very much! This was extremely helpful. I used the normal clear from Alclad and that did not give a good result.
I would be interested in seeing how well they go over decals...
WTH, Pledge, dam, thank you for this video test. I need to go out and try this.
Great 👍 video 📹 love the information 👌 I'm new to this airbrushing I do diecast cars 🚗 I was wondering do you have a video on how to decan a clear spray can
Have you ever applied the Alclad Matte Clear Coat to a chrome finish? Always wondered what the actual finished product would look like. Can't seem to find any videos of Alclads Airframe Alluminum and Alclad Matte Clear. Any interest? ☺ Also love your videos, learning a lot and super grateful for the content. 🙌
I tested Alclad Aircraft Aluminum here. It's a favorite of mine. I did spray matte clear over chrome pieces and it comes out like aluminum or a flat silver
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank for the reply! Do you have a video that shows the chrome with the Matte Clear?
I can't seem to find the Pledge Revive it in Canada. Maybe discontinued? What is a suitable alternative?
This was a FANTASTIC cover! I have been fighting this top coat killing chrome shine dilemma . This ANSWERED my questions. Spaz stix also has a ULTIMATE Clear coat for chrome. But was said to kill the shine. Thanks a heap...new to your videos. STLL trying to find Aquarium filter sheets...not mats. Please send a link. Cheers, Richard
So that Alclad Aqua Gloss looks good for for everything. Before decals? Before weathering with enamels & washes? For something shiny, like a car body? I love that big bottle. Maybe I’m too old, but I’m not using floor polish just on principle alone!!! (No disrespect intended, please, Sir.)
I love how informative your videos are. Thank you so much for your time and being so thorough. I was wondering If it would be possible for you to do a video on just using various floor polishes. I recently tried to find the Pledge Revie It product but it looks like it is no longer being produced. I did find it online but it's like 65 bucks. I was looking for some alternatives like Quickshine or some other readily available brands.
Have some questions:
1. About thinning. Did you thinned only MrColror RX (50:50)? Or anothers too? If yes, then which ones and in which ratio?
2. -What means 2k in AquaGlass+2k case?- - I found answer. 2k is cleat coat for real automotive.
3. You have used especial technique in another your video "How To Get A Glass Smooth Finish When Airbrushing Plastic Models"(2fast layers from 4inches, and 1 slower layer from closer distance). It differs from technique in this video(looks like 2 fast layers from close distance). Could you comment this moment please? Why do you use different techniques?
4. Pressure. You have used 15psi for Alclad Chrome and AquaGlass. What about pressure for another clears?
Next I think a lot of us would like to see you do the same test video using Molotow Chrome.
What is a good way to protect the candy gold without losing the finish? I want to use it on a kit I've had on the back burner for a few years now because i couldnt find the right gold but the candy gold looks perfect.
I’m new to this stuff and I’ve been going through your videos. Just wanted to say thanks for all of the helpful info!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. If you ever have a question on anything just ask
Thanks for this, looking forward to seeing the pledge shoot off
Maybe food colouring in the aqua gloss would be like candy or in the pledge. I am doing knee scallops on my gas tank and thanks for saving me time. I am using green stuff world chrome.
Thanks por this superb guide! Much appreciated.
Thank you for watching my friend 👍
Outstanding work!! Thank you so much for this informative video. Kudos to you Mr. Barbatos Rex.
Amazing work again! 👍 I have to ask about the aqua gloss though: I've tried spraying it like you do (I think) but it always just dulls the finish. I think it's orange peal... Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Googling, I discovered "flow coating" for auto paint, going high pressure, close, and fast enough to just get it wet in one pass and that it seems works for me ... But what you do seems much easier with the couple light coats.
Please advise!
P.S. I using a .3 mm on the NONAME portable compressor, tried both its high and low setting, and used both the brush it comes with and a new Iwata
Great review, thanks. I've been using a water based product with the generic name "Interior/Exterior Varnish" (both gloss and matte) which is Hobby Lobby's house brand I believe. I've had good luck with on car bodies; not sure how it would perform in your chrome test. It is $9.99 for an 8 ounce bottle. I'm still very new to this level of modeling which is why I appreciate all the work you do; thanks again.
Thats crazy.. haha i just wish PLedge would be sold here in Holland (Netherlands) 😥
Thanks for the time and effort you put into these video's, much appriciated !!
Another great video! So I'm going Aqua II over Mototow. Thanks!
I wonder how the VMS gloss would affect it , generally VMS coats are considered best over here in Eu
Hey Rex m& community. Hoping you or the further community can help me out here. I have a few dozen built RG's & HG's I sadly need to get rid of. I have converted to strictly MG's and I just have to make some room. Every one is fully stock built, no paint or changes. They are excellent+ to mint condition. The manual and all extra parts and weapons are included. NO BOX. This selection is extremely diverse and includes quite a few PBandai kits and many that are currently very hard to find. I won't let them go for free, but I will for pennies on the dollar. Obviously the $175 P Bandai Astrea Type-F will be a little more then the stock Heavy Arms. I will be happy to provide pics and a list if anyone is interested. Thanks very much.
this is a great job!! very good test… i am amazed that Pledge and Aqua gloss did better than Gauzy agent… i have Pledge, Alclad Aqua Gloss and Mr.Color GX100, but i was using Gauzy agent it for metals, somewhere i had read it was the best for metalic finishes… i am also wondering if that E7 from Taiwan would also perform well for dipping canopies and other clear parts… just ordered one from Taiwan, acording to ebay it will take 2 months to arrive to Europe… :-/
Perhaps do a long term follow-up after 6 months?
Great test video as always! I greatly appreciate what u do for our hobby!