Thank the Lord for you sir! I just got my great grandma’s 1910 Singer and watching these videos have really helped me find a starting place for restoring it to its former glory.
I came across your channel while researching how to fix my machines. I own 5 Singer cabinet machines, ranging in age from 1879 - 1948. Three are treadle and 2 are electric. All need some sort of repair or restoration. The oldest being the worst. I am impressed at the depth of information you give while doing these videos. I have learned so much while watching....the most important is that I will NOT in fact tackle the repairs of my machines on my own! I will leave that to a professional, or learn to love these bits of history, cracks and all. Thank you !!
Super impressed with your techniques. I've loved refurbishing wood furniture for a long time but have been very leary about working with veneer. Now I might try it on some of the older pieces. Thank you!
These have been very helpful videos. My husband and I are getting ready to do exactly the same thing and we're running into the same issues! Thanks for sharing.
I order my veneer from veneersupply.com and have had good luck with them. I believe these models came in Quarter Sawn Oak, Walnut and Mahogany. Once you have the wood species identified you should be OK ordering new. It may not be as nice as the 100 year old stuff, but once finished it should look fine.
You can also sand blast the metal, I have seen my neighbors redo their old cast iron radiators with sand blasting, though not sure how economical it would be, I don't know if you can filter the sand and use over again or not, have to research that.
Do you have a prefered place to buy veneer? I think that as a inexperienced veneer person a smaller project, just to get the feel would be in order, that way if I mess up, its not so critical as messing up a table. This series is chocked full of information
I have used veneersupply.com and have been pretty happy with them. You can also buy smaller pieces of veneer at places like Rockler Wood Working Supply, etc.
I’m so glad you are putting these videos out daily and not dragging it out. Nice work. You never answered the question I asked the other day. . . Is the sewing machine head being cleaned up also?
I'm just going to do the cabinet and base. I normally clean the machine and do some light oiling as a courtesy to the owners. I suppose if they were going to use it, they may take it to a shop and have it cleaned and adjusted.
I knew you weren’t doing it. It’s just that I think a functional machine is as important as a beautiful cabinet. I hope they do, and use it too! (If only to show it off!)
@@jill552 A Singer 66 might be the easiest to use machine Singer ever made. It has some real advantages like not having a traditional bobbin casing. It's a drop in bobbin right in the bed of the machine. That's a real advantage for a treadle. Truth is you can drop just about any vintage Singer machine in that cabinet and be off to the races. After Larry has done such a thoughtful job on the cabinet, if it were mine, I'd ditch that machine and get a really pretty one to replace it.
@Rick1979 Yes, I understand it's a family piece. It was VERY neglected though. As for having a Singer 66 from 1927 and thinking that a machine that's rough looking equals authenticity, well then, why restore any of it? Not to sound flip but there's millions of 66's out there. There might be a million from 1927. May as well have a pretty one. The bottom line is it's not my machine so it doesn't matter to me. I have an 1886 Singer 27 fiddle base in its original cabinet. I love the cabinet but I plan to put my prettiest 66 in that cabinet because the treadle action is so smooth. I really hope their new/old machine gets used though. 💙
Love it! Part 5 should be interesting. Are you going to use a semi gloss for the irons? You know, you're going to hate me, but, will you be adding some gold to the Singer enblems on the irons this time? Say yes... 😁
@@LostMountainRestoration I don't know. What I do know is I can see faint evidence of gold on my 1886 treadle. Was it factory? I have no idea but I'm going to go take a look at ISSMACS and see what I can find out.
@@LostMountainRestoration OK.... Research is complete. Looks like gold was used since the later 1800's. The thing is that the gold should be a bit muted, which makes sense. The gold is on the outside ends, the entire oval plus the designs in the middle of the oval, plus the iron Singer emblem under the cradle area. There are a lot of pictures on line for guidance. The best restorations use a less gold, gold. Not too bright but not hard to see either. Think gold-bronze.
AND DON'T CUT THE WOOD OF THE TOP YOU ARE SCORING NEXT TOO. Very easy to do. I would of scored it once then again on other side, removed the top then finish with a ruler
If I remember correctly, I used old veneer to patch and a sheet of standard, modern veneer for the top. I don't sweat exact match of veneer thickness. If your veneer is too thin, double it up and sand it flush. If it's too thick, just sand it flush. Thanks!
@@jojodesca I did use paper backed veneer because I adhered it with contact cement. If I had a vacuum system, I would have used regular veneer and wood glue as the adhesive. I don't know what the thickness is. I got it from www.veneersupplies.com - good luck with it!
Thank the Lord for you sir! I just got my great grandma’s 1910 Singer and watching these videos have really helped me find a starting place for restoring it to its former glory.
That is awesome! Thank you!
I too am acquiring a 1910. These videos are very helpful
Awesome video. It's like watching my late father at work
I came across your channel while researching how to fix my machines. I own 5 Singer cabinet machines, ranging in age from 1879 - 1948. Three are treadle and 2 are electric. All need some sort of repair or restoration. The oldest being the worst. I am impressed at the depth of information you give while doing these videos. I have learned so much while watching....the most important is that I will NOT in fact tackle the repairs of my machines on my own! I will leave that to a professional, or learn to love these bits of history, cracks and all. Thank you !!
Thank you for this video!
Super impressed with your techniques. I've loved refurbishing wood furniture for a long time but have been very leary about working with veneer. Now I might try it on some of the older pieces. Thank you!
The one thumbs down was just so you don't get spoiled. I've enjoyed this restoration. Thanks
I get one thumbs down shortly after posting nearly every video. It keeps me humble. LOL - thanks!
These have been very helpful videos. My husband and I are getting ready to do exactly the same thing and we're running into the same issues! Thanks for sharing.
Wish I had seen all your youtubes in chronological order
looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to do my old singer. Trying to figure out what type/ color veneer I want
Is there a link for the wood?! I can’t find that color not sure on thickness
Great video! learning a lot. would you mind sharing where you got the veneer and what's the correct veneer for a 1914 Model 127?
I order my veneer from veneersupply.com and have had good luck with them. I believe these models came in Quarter Sawn Oak, Walnut and Mahogany. Once you have the wood species identified you should be OK ordering new. It may not be as nice as the 100 year old stuff, but once finished it should look fine.
@@LostMountainRestoration Sizing 3m?
You can also sand blast the metal, I have seen my neighbors redo their old cast iron radiators with sand blasting, though not sure how economical it would be, I don't know if you can filter the sand and use over again or not, have to research that.
Can you tell me what tools you used for the veneering? The rubber wheel, etc.? Thank you.
How do you take apart the pieces of the table? I have everything with hinges off, but there is still another piece connected
Always wear eye protection using scalpels, the tips can and do break with heavy pressure so be careful of your eyes and your fingers obviously
Do you have a prefered place to buy veneer? I think that as a inexperienced veneer person a smaller project, just to get the feel would be in order, that way if I mess up, its not so critical as messing up a table. This series is chocked full of information
I have used veneersupply.com and have been pretty happy with them. You can also buy smaller pieces of veneer at places like Rockler Wood Working Supply, etc.
How thick is the veneer you used if I may ask?
I’m so glad you are putting these videos out daily and not dragging it out. Nice work. You never answered the question I asked the other day. . . Is the sewing machine head being cleaned up also?
I'm just going to do the cabinet and base. I normally clean the machine and do some light oiling as a courtesy to the owners. I suppose if they were going to use it, they may take it to a shop and have it cleaned and adjusted.
I knew you weren’t doing it. It’s just that I think a functional machine is as important as a beautiful cabinet. I hope they do, and use it too! (If only to show it off!)
@@jill552 A Singer 66 might be the easiest to use machine Singer ever made. It has some real advantages like not having a traditional bobbin casing. It's a drop in bobbin right in the bed of the machine. That's a real advantage for a treadle. Truth is you can drop just about any vintage Singer machine in that cabinet and be off to the races. After Larry has done such a thoughtful job on the cabinet, if it were mine, I'd ditch that machine and get a really pretty one to replace it.
@Rick1979 Yes, I understand it's a family piece. It was VERY neglected though. As for having a Singer 66 from 1927 and thinking that a machine that's rough looking equals authenticity, well then, why restore any of it? Not to sound flip but there's millions of 66's out there. There might be a million from 1927. May as well have a pretty one. The bottom line is it's not my machine so it doesn't matter to me. I have an 1886 Singer 27 fiddle base in its original cabinet. I love the cabinet but I plan to put my prettiest 66 in that cabinet because the treadle action is so smooth. I really hope their new/old machine gets used though. 💙
How does one replicate or find a missing ornate emboss front trim on a singer sewing macine cabinet
Any suggestions on how to mark all the other bolt and screw holes before veneer? This is my first one so just getting a plan before I start.
I cover that in Part 9, starts at about 00:20 th-cam.com/video/NZF1FKnTDdA/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and good luck!
Thank you Sir don’t know how I missed that.
Good stuff. Thanks as always for sharing. Can you tell me where you order your veneer from?
Veneersupplies.com
Lost Mountain Restoration Thank you. I really enjoy and learn from your vids.
Dave Cornette You are very welcome
Love it! Part 5 should be interesting. Are you going to use a semi gloss for the irons? You know, you're going to hate me, but, will you be adding some gold to the Singer enblems on the irons this time? Say yes... 😁
Do you know how Singer decided which models got the gold trim? I didn't see any indication this one had the gold. Let me know and thanks!
@@LostMountainRestoration I don't know. What I do know is I can see faint evidence of gold on my 1886 treadle. Was it factory? I have no idea but I'm going to go take a look at ISSMACS and see what I can find out.
Sharon Martin Thanks, Sharon!
@@LostMountainRestoration OK.... Research is complete. Looks like gold was used since the later 1800's. The thing is that the gold should be a bit muted, which makes sense. The gold is on the outside ends, the entire oval plus the designs in the middle of the oval, plus the iron Singer emblem under the cradle area. There are a lot of pictures on line for guidance. The best restorations use a less gold, gold. Not too bright but not hard to see either. Think gold-bronze.
Sharon Martin Thanks. Was it on all of them?
ps - you rock!
AND DON'T CUT THE WOOD OF THE TOP YOU ARE SCORING NEXT TOO. Very easy to do. I would of scored it once then again on other side, removed the top then finish with a ruler
I need to re-veneer my treadle cabinet, but do no know the thickness of veneer that I need, what id you use?
If I remember correctly, I used old veneer to patch and a sheet of standard, modern veneer for the top. I don't sweat exact match of veneer thickness. If your veneer is too thin, double it up and sand it flush. If it's too thick, just sand it flush. Thanks!
@@LostMountainRestoration did you buy paperbacked?
@@jojodesca I did use paper backed veneer because I adhered it with contact cement. If I had a vacuum system, I would have used regular veneer and wood glue as the adhesive. I don't know what the thickness is. I got it from www.veneersupplies.com - good luck with it!
I always heard using contact cement when doing veneer...when I see others who dont, that seems odd to me
There are always multiple ways to accomplish a task and, as you know, everyone has an opinion.
I can't find parts 2 and 3?
th-cam.com/video/TP0EqG506og/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/l3g9kn4PSe0/w-d-xo.html