Hey Ari, you should be using the black grease on the thrust bearing as it's suited for the higher pressure. Also great work, it came out looking great!
It turned out looking awesome and it is a pretty neat kit. I had to pass on this one as it is just too many too quick and too many other kits coming out as well. It sucks to hear the manuals have not improved yet, obviously they are not listening to the the reviews of these as none have said the manuals are good! LOL! I am glad you got yours put together and you had the great body there that would fit it well, it looks wonderful! Have fun running it around the track! Thanks for the shout out as well! Take care Ari and have a wonderful week!
@@AddamsPlayground Hey Adam, thanks for the comment and again thank you for the idea of little post-it’s on the manual to remind me of what a disaster it is. It was actually a lot worse than I made it out to be. There was really a lot wrong. Some parts were labeled as being “white” when all the plastic parts are black. They told you to put shims in when there were no shims included with the kit but this is only if you use the bushings. It’s just a mess.
Love the car and body. I would like one but 🤞this one will appear in Europe. Great tips for the build, also brake cleaner works for metal parts. Can't wait to see it on a mild run around your track 👍🤝
Man I love the Look of this livery...also want to make #5 Terry Labonte paint on my TLR XE 2.0 but it was to stressful because it was the first kit I build...so I decided to make #18 from Bobby😊 Nice work bro... luv ya channel ❤
Great build, and looks fantastic. I have the RC10CC, Classic and a T to build but I am hesitant having not built anything other than Tamiya before seen lots of videos saying the instructions lack detail. Combine that with being from metric land, imperial is like alien language. All three kits are still in the box. Thanks for the tips!
I gave the rear end an ocular patdown an estimate a turnbuckle gap of 10.5mm. I hope tires for this are not scarce because I plan to make them sing. Thanks for the tips, and the body options.
@@tomconnors8165 I think I’m somewhere around the 10mm range as well. Can’t be certain at the moment and measure with calipers as I’m away for the week on vacation. In the next video, I’ll talk more about this.
I do wish they would slow down, the uk will hopefully be getting the RC10-T soon 🤞 but with such small numbers im not holding out any hope of getting one. Why they dont just release them as regular runs ive no idea ? And for the love of god. Put bearings in the kits please AE ? That body looked freaking awsome 👌
You are correct. The body that comes with the ds is a Trans AM mustang. Yes it's a mustang However its a scca pro series trans am class of race car that it was scaled down from
It modeled after the Mustang that Tommy Kendall drove in the TransAm series. It was sponsored by All Sport energy drinks but the ‘Duel Sport’ decals look the same.
I was missing the famous plastic shock tools and the metal AE wrench in mine. Also had no motor screws, lol, don't care tho, had plenty here to finish.
I just picked one up this morning while buying some paint for another build.. lol I was just about the open the box and start building until you mentioned it doesn't come with bearings.
Had one for a minute back in the day mine was a Team Kit version with bearings and the grey Team shocks first time out under steer under steer under steer so bad I couldn’t dial it out on the prepared track we raced on when it was on the street it was ok and I could get it to rotate ended up selling it and going back to my home brewed Frankenstein car for that class (a common thing it was an open class only rule was 2WD and at least a 3 gear transmission and 60’s or older body that covered the tires. I regretted selling it but at the time if I couldn’t race it it had no use and was potential money for my next new ? or for the next race weekend just how it was back then here’s to second chances. Looks like MIP is building CVD’s for these and the other AE re-re’s too
@teamassociatedrc you need to go back over the manuals of your newest offerings. They are horrible. The RC10T, RC10DS and DC10 have many mistakes, omissions and the images are not very clear. The DC10 needs better reference to the parts especially the suspension mounts. What’s on the parts trees don’t march what is in the manual. Let’s at least have the pdf version undated then the paper manuals in future shipments of kits.
I love that build, looks great
Great video bud.. enjoyed 😎🤙
very nice! Love the paint! Can’t wait to build mine!
Came out great!
Hey Ari, you should be using the black grease on the thrust bearing as it's suited for the higher pressure. Also great work, it came out looking great!
It turned out looking awesome and it is a pretty neat kit. I had to pass on this one as it is just too many too quick and too many other kits coming out as well. It sucks to hear the manuals have not improved yet, obviously they are not listening to the the reviews of these as none have said the manuals are good! LOL! I am glad you got yours put together and you had the great body there that would fit it well, it looks wonderful! Have fun running it around the track! Thanks for the shout out as well! Take care Ari and have a wonderful week!
@@AddamsPlayground Hey Adam, thanks for the comment and again thank you for the idea of little post-it’s on the manual to remind me of what a disaster it is. It was actually a lot worse than I made it out to be. There was really a lot wrong. Some parts were labeled as being “white” when all the plastic parts are black. They told you to put shims in when there were no shims included with the kit but this is only if you use the bushings. It’s just a mess.
Love the car and body. I would like one but 🤞this one will appear in Europe. Great tips for the build, also brake cleaner works for metal parts. Can't wait to see it on a mild run around your track 👍🤝
Man I love the Look of this livery...also want to make #5 Terry Labonte paint on my TLR XE 2.0 but it was to stressful because it was the first kit I build...so I decided to make #18 from Bobby😊
Nice work bro...
luv ya channel ❤
Came out awesome Ari.
Looks great 😊
Great build, and looks fantastic. I have the RC10CC, Classic and a T to build but I am hesitant having not built anything other than Tamiya before seen lots of videos saying the instructions lack detail. Combine that with being from metric land, imperial is like alien language. All three kits are still in the box. Thanks for the tips!
I gave the rear end an ocular patdown an estimate a turnbuckle gap of 10.5mm. I hope tires for this are not scarce because I plan to make them sing. Thanks for the tips, and the body options.
@@tomconnors8165 I think I’m somewhere around the 10mm range as well. Can’t be certain at the moment and measure with calipers as I’m away for the week on vacation. In the next video, I’ll talk more about this.
That body is awesome
I do wish they would slow down, the uk will hopefully be getting the RC10-T soon 🤞 but with such small numbers im not holding out any hope of getting one. Why they dont just release them as regular runs ive no idea ? And for the love of god. Put bearings in the kits please AE ? That body looked freaking awsome 👌
You are correct. The body that comes with the ds is a Trans AM mustang. Yes it's a mustang However its a scca pro series trans am class of race car that it was scaled down from
Thank you for letting me know and explaining that. Appreciated it.
It modeled after the Mustang that Tommy Kendall drove in the TransAm series. It was sponsored by All Sport energy drinks but the ‘Duel Sport’ decals look the same.
I was missing the famous plastic shock tools and the metal AE wrench in mine. Also had no motor screws, lol, don't care tho, had plenty here to finish.
I will use a RPM camber gauge for that perfect alignment angle.
Is there any way to mount up standard 12mm hex touring car wheels?
That is a good question. There is a RC10DS Facebook group where we could probably find the answer to that.
I just picked one up this morning while buying some paint for another build.. lol I was just about the open the box and start building until you mentioned it doesn't come with bearings.
Had one for a minute back in the day mine was a Team Kit version with bearings and the grey Team shocks first time out under steer under steer under steer so bad I couldn’t dial it out on the prepared track we raced on when it was on the street it was ok and I could get it to rotate ended up selling it and going back to my home brewed Frankenstein car for that class (a common thing it was an open class only rule was 2WD and at least a 3 gear transmission and 60’s or older body that covered the tires. I regretted selling it but at the time if I couldn’t race it it had no use and was potential money for my next new ? or for the next race weekend just how it was back then here’s to second chances. Looks like MIP is building CVD’s for these and the other AE re-re’s too
I like the speed that they're going with with putting them out.
Got myself a DS 10
My last 3 Associated kits were each missing some parts as well and yes their manuals are trash.
I'd love a re-release of an NDS, but probably won't happen
I want to see you race it in the rain to see how good the traction is. For those tires.
haha mate try living in Aus and seeing all these releases! Try $750+ every few weeks....
It looked like you're not using the Mustang body.Are you going to use it for something else?
Going to send it out for a custom paint job... maybe...
Are you going to get that bolink piece?They're out of business.
There is someone on eBay who makes a reproduction kit of it. www.ebay.com/itm/196356358955
Hornet evo is to come out november 29 Is and straight from tamiya America Is going to go for 238.
TamiyaUSA is typically a bit more expensive than AMAIN or Tower
@RCRetro Yeah, but I
still bet they sell it for 200 hundred.
Don't have that problem with the hornet evo.
@teamassociatedrc you need to go back over the manuals of your newest offerings. They are horrible. The RC10T, RC10DS and DC10 have many mistakes, omissions and the images are not very clear. The DC10 needs better reference to the parts especially the suspension mounts. What’s on the parts trees don’t march what is in the manual. Let’s at least have the pdf version undated then the paper manuals in future shipments of kits.
It looks like you used a bushing in the spur.