Brilliant video!! I did the job without the tool and I wish I never started in the first place! In regards to the cleaning I would recommend something better that carburettor cleaner and it’s called Anti Grip injector cleaner. Just soak the injector in up to the half and leave it for 20 min. It will clean it properly. Carburettor cleaner is bit ti aggressive by my opinion. Anyway great vid! Thanks
Great videos, Simon! I own a BMW 535d and I also do all maintenance myself. I find your videos very informative. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. :) Liked and subscribed
Hi mate, Really appreciate you for what you do. You help a lot of people. Do you know where I can get VIDA/DICE from? As. I understand I will likely need to recalibrate the injectors even if I’m only going to recondition the same ones.
Great video. I recently bought my bro's 2003 XC90 off him and every morning in this cold weather it starts OK, but as my wife drives it up the hill it loses power and she has to stop and restart it. She gets an Engine Service Required message. After restart it seems ok and gets the kids to school! I'm expecting the fuel filter, the injectors or the fuel pump. Hopefully if I have to sort the injectors your video will help. Thanks for taking the time.
@@sirobb 4 years later and still got the car - the issue with limp mode was a sticky variable vane turbo - I had it cleaned and reduced the problem. For a few months it has been stuck on my drive - it starts but stalls straight away - apart from the one occasion it started, ran then stalled again - Only difference was the weather was a bit warmer. The car is old but I want to try to fix it with my limited skills - worth £300 scrap but otherwise I reckon it has some life in it if I can get it going again - have not got the spare cash to leave it with a garage!
Hi Simon _ Many thanks for another great video. Can you offer any advice on how to bend the clamp for re-use. Not sure how much to bend it! Many thanks, Ant
Hei SiRobb! Greetings from Portugal! I have a 2.4 D5 i think exactly like yours! Thanks for your videos, they were really, really important for me! i learned a lot and saved a lot of money! In fact i got interested in car mechanics thanks to you! The time you spend making these high usefull videos should be compensated I would like to make a donation, because you deserve!! Please let me know how to do it, preferably Paypal. thanks regards Vitor Gomes
Vitor Gomes Greetings to you back from the UK and thank you for your kind words. My PayPal is simonrobb72@gmail.com but I would like to say that I never expect payment as I really enjoy sharing knowledge to fellow car owners. Any amount you choose to give will be greatly appreciated though so thank you and Feliz Natal e Feliz Ano Novo para você e sua família. 🎅
I had the same, even more, clogged up injector well. I thought, that it is just some molten heatshielding from the cover. Ended up thar the washer failed an started to leak the compression.
hi love the videos they have helped me out loads when changing the swirl flap rail what would be the very least i could get away with replacing i.e injector clamps and pipes .what are the chances of re using the original ones thanks gary
Icek Goldberg I bought it from FRF Volvo Swansea. The part number is shown on the box. Some main dealers won't sell workshop tools to a member of the public.
I’ve got a leak on exactly the same one (second one in from your left) hence me finding your video 😊 Where did you get the seating tool from, can’t seem to find one. Cheers.
The sealing washer as you called it that fits after the collar but before the circlip. is the inner edge tapered both sides? You did not pay any special attention to it yet it is the only thing holding the circlip in place once the injector is fitted. The tapered inner part of that washer partially fits over the circlip which prevents it moving under the high stress it endures. If it tapered both sides it makes no difference. If tapered only one sider it is vital to get it the correct way around.
Hi. I hope you can please help. Fan of your channel...I have a 2.4d volvo s60. I stupidly ran out of fuel the other week...I refuelled but can has gone into a limp mode. I have full reva but no power. The engine system service required light is on. I've bled the high pressure fuel rail nuts as per your video but I can't resolve. I've changed fuel filter as well. Any tips PLEASE. I can't afford a volvo dealer to fix. Thanks
Hi Sir, have a xc70 2003 D5. The flexible egr pipe (at the back) that leads to the egr valve is leaking a little leading to fumes in the cabin. Replaced the pipe but still some fumes are ventilating and noticable. Any ideas? thanks!
The high pressure pipes mould themselves to the unique tiny imperfections of the injector connector so you return the injector to the same position for the best chance of a good seal.
Ok, i understand. I read somwhere that puting back injector to the same place(same cylinder) is crucial, otherwise u must code them. IT s True this statement?
Hi Si, are there any problems or concerns about replacing glow plugs? I know you did a video showing the testing of them, but wondered if it was a difficult process because of the chance of snapping them. Your videos are inspirational, I would never have attempted some of the work on my D5 without your guidance. Thank you for the videos. Bob.
Bob McCann Hi Bob. The D5 glow plugs are probably the easiest around to change and if everything else is working correctly have a limited negative effect when they fail on the Euro 3 163. On the Euro 4 however, they are required for particulate filter regeneration so it's important to have a working set of plugs. Whichever engine you have, I would advise cleaning around each plug with brake cleaner where they enter the engine then squirt penetrating fluid in that area too. A couple of applications over 2 days or so before even attempting to undo them. Change them on a warm engine (turned OFF) and of course be careful. The plastic connectors can get brittle so try to pull them as close to the bottom not at the top near the wire. Have some duct tape on hand to repair the connectors if they do come apart, cleaning with brake cleaner first. On the plugs themselves, use a dedicated *6 sided* 8mm glow plug key or deep socket only. If you encounter resistance when undoing, don't try to unscrew them in one go, instead loosen a little then lightly tighten and repeat with extra sprays of penetrating oil in between and they should come undone nicely. Avoid anything falling into the glow plug hole. With the new plugs, apply a thin smear of copper grease to the threads. Copper grease is heat resistant and will help prevent future seizure. Only wrist tighten the new plugs. There's no need to use the handle of the ratchet when tightening. Hope that helps and many thanks for the supportive comment.
HI Bob, I have changed many heater plugs in Volvo D5 engines with no issues but, recently I got to the third one and it crumbled part with the slightest touch from a 1/4 drive miniature socket and tiny T bar. It had crystalised with some sort of corrosion. I tried everything to remove the broken off bit from inside but no chance. I ended up having to remove the cylinder head and take it to a machine shop.
hi Sirrob i have xc60 D5 recently check the electrical connector to injectors and found out that it is wet by diesel a little bit, what seems to be the problem? thanks
Hi, I'm a bit late to this, I've replaced the sealing washers on my injectors due to low compression reading, this fixed my compression issue but the engine doesn't start anymore, I'm assuming it's due to an air lock. Is there any way of bleeding the fuel system in these engines?
On a D5, you just cycle the ignition for 10-15 seconds 4 or 5 times and that should be enough. Don't crank the engine over for too long either or you'll flatten the battery and create another problem.
Yes. When the engine isn't running, there's no such thing as a high pressure side though. The entire fuel system is one loop and the above method will bleed the whole loop.
No problem. Straight after turning the ignition on, put your ear to the bodywork near the fuel filler and you should hear the buzz of the in tank pump. If there's silence, you may have a dead pump or blown fuse.
Hello, i have a problem with my volvo s60 d5 2002. The car don't want to star on morning, i use a special spray to start the engine. After 6-7 hours the car start normal. Can you tell me how to fix this issue? Thank you in advance for the answer... anyway I am big fan of your videos :) (sorry for my English and I hope to help me with my problem )
Ulrik Friis Jensen Externally, I soaked the tips/nozzles in carburettor cleaner then after installing them I cleaned them internally with a Liqui Moly Diesel Purge. Thank you for the support. 👍
Mike Davies Main dealer parts with no discount can be expensive but you can find dealers with eBay accounts who sell genuine parts very cheaply and with a little practice searching, you can find equally high quality and often identical parts in the aftermarket sector.
Thank you so much for your videos. I bought a D5 just because I knew I could repair it easily with your videos. I have two questions: Can you use WD40 to easily install back copper washer, or will it affect sealing? And how do you remove old circlip from injector?
WD40 will probably do nothing over a long period of time. If you are fitting a new mounting kit including circlip, you can be as rough as you like on the old circlip to remove it. A slim screwdriver and pliers is enough for me to take one off. ,
@@sirobb Thank you for your answer. I bought circlip pliers I think it's gonna be useful. Btw what's the torque for new clamp bolts? Manual says 13 and 28 nm, can't find which one is right...
@@sirobb This one online www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/ "Fuel injector - tension mounting: Torque to 13 Nm Injectors D5244T/T2/T3: Torque to 28 Nm" Idk what they mean with "tension mounting" and "injectors" Although my manual says 13 Nm. Just wanted to make sure of that as it seems pretty low?
@@sirobb yes bud I actually managed to buy one from the dealer was hard work though. Dude do you know where the fuel pump relay is on a 2002 d5 (v70) can not find mine for the life of me. Looked in all the "known" areas. Thank you for your time. Hero
Just wanted to say great video, very informative. I changed one of my Volvo D5 injectors yesterday and all is working well.
Che difetti ti dava??
Brilliant video!! I did the job without the tool and I wish I never started in the first place! In regards to the cleaning I would recommend something better that carburettor cleaner and it’s called Anti Grip injector cleaner. Just soak the injector in up to the half and leave it for 20 min. It will clean it properly. Carburettor cleaner is bit ti aggressive by my opinion. Anyway great vid! Thanks
Sorry - forgot to mention: Superb videos!!!
Great videos, Simon! I own a BMW 535d and I also do all maintenance myself. I find your videos very informative. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. :) Liked and subscribed
Hi mate,
Really appreciate you for what you do. You help a lot of people.
Do you know where I can get VIDA/DICE from?
As. I understand I will likely need to recalibrate the injectors even if I’m only going to recondition the same ones.
Great video. I recently bought my bro's 2003 XC90 off him and every morning in this cold weather it starts OK, but as my wife drives it up the hill it loses power and she has to stop and restart it. She gets an Engine Service Required message. After restart it seems ok and gets the kids to school! I'm expecting the fuel filter, the injectors or the fuel pump. Hopefully if I have to sort the injectors your video will help. Thanks for taking the time.
+Michael Penney Before doing anything, get the code read as it could save you a lot of time.
@@sirobb 4 years later and still got the car - the issue with limp mode was a sticky variable vane turbo - I had it cleaned and reduced the problem. For a few months it has been stuck on my drive - it starts but stalls straight away - apart from the one occasion it started, ran then stalled again - Only difference was the weather was a bit warmer. The car is old but I want to try to fix it with my limited skills - worth £300 scrap but otherwise I reckon it has some life in it if I can get it going again - have not got the spare cash to leave it with a garage!
Hi Simon _ Many thanks for another great video.
Can you offer any advice on how to bend the clamp for re-use. Not sure how much to bend it!
Many thanks,
Ant
Hei SiRobb! Greetings from Portugal! I have a 2.4 D5 i think exactly like yours!
Thanks for your videos, they were really, really important for me! i learned a lot and saved a lot of money! In fact i got interested in car mechanics thanks to you!
The time you spend making these high usefull videos should be compensated I would like to make a donation, because you deserve!!
Please let me know how to do it, preferably Paypal.
thanks
regards
Vitor Gomes
Vitor Gomes Greetings to you back from the UK and thank you for your kind words.
My PayPal is simonrobb72@gmail.com but I would like to say that I never expect payment as I really enjoy sharing knowledge to fellow car owners.
Any amount you choose to give will be greatly appreciated though so thank you and Feliz Natal e Feliz Ano Novo para você e sua família.
🎅
But how do u get the old circlip out of there? I’m currently in my workshop trying to remove it…
I had the same, even more, clogged up injector well. I thought, that it is just some molten heatshielding from the cover. Ended up thar the washer failed an started to leak the compression.
hi love the videos they have helped me out loads
when changing the swirl flap rail what would be the very least i could get away with replacing i.e injector clamps and pipes .what are the chances of re using the original ones
thanks gary
Excellent, Thanks
Hi, thanks for great video.
Could you be so kind to let me know where did you buy that special tool as I can’t find anywhere.
Icek Goldberg I bought it from FRF Volvo Swansea. The part number is shown on the box.
Some main dealers won't sell workshop tools to a member of the public.
I’ve got a leak on exactly the same one (second one in from your left) hence me finding your video 😊 Where did you get the seating tool from, can’t seem to find one. Cheers.
Think I got mine from FRF Swansea.
Hi rob do you know of the part number for the injector c clip tool you use our where i can get one from many thanks
10:39 9997015
Thanks very much appreciated pal
The sealing washer as you called it that fits after the collar but before the circlip. is the inner edge tapered both sides? You did not pay any special attention to it yet it is the only thing holding the circlip in place once the injector is fitted. The tapered inner part of that washer partially fits over the circlip which prevents it moving under the high stress it endures. If it tapered both sides it makes no difference. If tapered only one sider it is vital to get it the correct way around.
Yes, I know what it does and it's tapered both sides so I didn't focus on it because like you say, it makes no difference.
What method or tools did you use to clean the carbon build up in the injector chamber? Once the injector was removed
Slim long screwdriver wrapped in rag and soaked with carb cleaner.
Hi. I hope you can please help. Fan of your channel...I have a 2.4d volvo s60. I stupidly ran out of fuel the other week...I refuelled but can has gone into a limp mode. I have full reva but no power. The engine system service required light is on. I've bled the high pressure fuel rail nuts as per your video but I can't resolve. I've changed fuel filter as well. Any tips PLEASE. I can't afford a volvo dealer to fix. Thanks
Hi Sir, have a xc70 2003 D5. The flexible egr pipe (at the back) that leads to the egr valve is leaking a little leading to fumes in the cabin. Replaced the pipe but still some fumes are ventilating and noticable. Any ideas? thanks!
Hi Robb. Pls, can u explain why is important to put back the injectors în the same order. D5 euro 3 engine. Thx
The high pressure pipes mould themselves to the unique tiny imperfections of the injector connector so you return the injector to the same position for the best chance of a good seal.
Ok, i understand. I read somwhere that puting back injector to the same place(same cylinder) is crucial, otherwise u must code them. IT s True this statement?
@@panteaflorin6783 It has nothing to do with coding. Certainly not on the Euro 3 D5.
Thx so much. Great videos 👍
Hi Si, are there any problems or concerns about replacing glow plugs? I know you did a video showing the testing of them, but wondered if it was a difficult process because of the chance of snapping them. Your videos are inspirational, I would never have attempted some of the work on my D5 without your guidance. Thank you for the videos. Bob.
Bob McCann Hi Bob.
The D5 glow plugs are probably the easiest around to change and if everything else is working correctly have a limited negative effect when they fail on the Euro 3 163.
On the Euro 4 however, they are required for particulate filter regeneration so it's important to have a working set of plugs.
Whichever engine you have, I would advise cleaning around each plug with brake cleaner where they enter the engine then squirt penetrating fluid in that area too. A couple of applications over 2 days or so before even attempting to undo them.
Change them on a warm engine (turned OFF) and of course be careful.
The plastic connectors can get brittle so try to pull them as close to the bottom not at the top near the wire.
Have some duct tape on hand to repair the connectors if they do come apart, cleaning with brake cleaner first.
On the plugs themselves, use a dedicated *6 sided* 8mm glow plug key or deep socket only.
If you encounter resistance when undoing, don't try to unscrew them in one go, instead loosen a little then lightly tighten and repeat with extra sprays of penetrating oil in between and they should come undone nicely.
Avoid anything falling into the glow plug hole.
With the new plugs, apply a thin smear of copper grease to the threads.
Copper grease is heat resistant and will help prevent future seizure.
Only wrist tighten the new plugs.
There's no need to use the handle of the ratchet when tightening.
Hope that helps and many thanks for the supportive comment.
HI Bob, I have changed many heater plugs in Volvo D5 engines with no issues but, recently I got to the third one and it crumbled part with the slightest touch from a 1/4 drive miniature socket and tiny T bar. It had crystalised with some sort of corrosion. I tried everything to remove the broken off bit from inside but no chance. I ended up having to remove the cylinder head and take it to a machine shop.
hi Sirrob i have xc60 D5 recently check the electrical connector to injectors and found out that it is wet by diesel a little bit, what seems to be the problem? thanks
The diesel could be coming up body of the injector from a poor seal in the cylinder head or from a leak in the injector feed or return pipework.
@@sirobb thanks SiRobb
Hi, I'm a bit late to this, I've replaced the sealing washers on my injectors due to low compression reading, this fixed my compression issue but the engine doesn't start anymore, I'm assuming it's due to an air lock.
Is there any way of bleeding the fuel system in these engines?
On a D5, you just cycle the ignition for 10-15 seconds 4 or 5 times and that should be enough.
Don't crank the engine over for too long either or you'll flatten the battery and create another problem.
@@sirobb is that gonna bleed the high pressure side as well?
Yes.
When the engine isn't running, there's no such thing as a high pressure side though.
The entire fuel system is one loop and the above method will bleed the whole loop.
@@sirobb OK thanks, I'll stick the battery on charge overnight and try it again tomorrow
No problem. Straight after turning the ignition on, put your ear to the bodywork near the fuel filler and you should hear the buzz of the in tank pump.
If there's silence, you may have a dead pump or blown fuse.
Anybody know of an injector seal for the D5, but very slightly thicker?? Would help a lot!
Hello, i have a problem with my volvo s60 d5 2002. The car don't want to star on morning, i use a special spray to start the engine. After 6-7 hours the car start normal. Can you tell me how to fix this issue? Thank you in advance for the answer... anyway I am big fan of your videos :) (sorry for my English and I hope to help me with my problem )
Lucian Octavian Simion Hi. Do a leak back test like in my video here th-cam.com/video/bbQhKjj6jis/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the promt answer, a sun as possible i will make the test and i will let you know what is the result.
Did you clean the injector nozzle? If yes, how?
Ulrik Friis Jensen Externally, I soaked the tips/nozzles in carburettor cleaner then after installing them I cleaned them internally with a Liqui Moly Diesel Purge.
Thank you for the support. 👍
hello i'm from Thailand and i use volvo s80 D5 year 2005 in my message center they show "high emission services required" can you give me an advise
panuvat jiratjintana Have you got a blanking plate over your exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)?
SiRobb i'm not sure sir , is it normal if there is blanking plate over EGR ?
Can you give me the site from where you order the parts?
how much for the tool?
great videos are parts expensive for volvos me son bin looking at the s40
Mike Davies Main dealer parts with no discount can be expensive but you can find dealers with eBay accounts who sell genuine parts very cheaply and with a little practice searching, you can find equally high quality and often identical parts in the aftermarket sector.
SiRobb cheers pal il let him know
Do new injectors need coding
This is a Euro 3 so as long as the class is matched, no further coding required.
@@sirobb so can I take injectors out a 2002 s60 and put them in 2010 xc90 and thank you for reply
@@johnmcguinness7116 Different injectors so not compatible in any way.
2010 is Euro 4 so may need coding. 2010 is a bit new for my speciality.
Thank you so much for your videos. I bought a D5 just because I knew I could repair it easily with your videos.
I have two questions: Can you use WD40 to easily install back copper washer, or will it affect sealing? And how do you remove old circlip from injector?
WD40 will probably do nothing over a long period of time.
If you are fitting a new mounting kit including circlip, you can be as rough as you like on the old circlip to remove it.
A slim screwdriver and pliers is enough for me to take one off. ,
@@sirobb Thank you for your answer. I bought circlip pliers I think it's gonna be useful. Btw what's the torque for new clamp bolts? Manual says 13 and 28 nm, can't find which one is right...
What manual are you using which gives 2 different torque figures?
@@sirobb This one online www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/
"Fuel injector - tension mounting: Torque to 13 Nm
Injectors D5244T/T2/T3: Torque to 28 Nm"
Idk what they mean with "tension mounting" and "injectors"
Although my manual says 13 Nm. Just wanted to make sure of that as it seems pretty low?
Ignore tension mounting.
D5244T is 28Nm
D5244T4 is 13Nm
LOL the car you sell gets the bodge washers
Yes and still works perfectly to this day.
@@sirobb Why don't you use them for your car?
I fit new kits to mine because reintroducing the spring force into used injector clamps is a pain in the arse.
The end result is the same.
Always thought you're an old white dude in your 50s-60s hahaha
David G It's surprising that you thought I was white when you consider that my brown hands have been appearing in my videos for a long time. 👍☺️
SiRobb trueee hahaha
Totally agree, I always thought this guy was about the same age as RobertDIY. My world is now a lie.
Would you lend me the injector tool I'll pay a deposit twice what you payed for the tool. I am in the UK???
Is it a Euro 3 D5244T? The tool is only compatible with that.
@@sirobb yes bud I actually managed to buy one from the dealer was hard work though. Dude do you know where the fuel pump relay is on a 2002 d5 (v70) can not find mine for the life of me. Looked in all the "known" areas. Thank you for your time. Hero
No mention in the owner's manual?
@@sirobb yes but it's not where it says it is. Apparently under neath the steering column next to obd port next to the front fog light relay.
@@stephenfoster4255 Oh right. I don't know then, never needed it.
What do you need it for?