For those that may not know already, if it locks onto the wrong eye or the wrong person’s eye, you can use the joystick to move it to another eye or someone else entirely. I find it more accurate than touch and drag. Excellent and concise tutorial. It’s nice to know that my settings are inline with others.
One thing I’ve done that works well for me is have my “star” button set for auto eye focus mode and “af on” for spot focus so I don’t have to mess with toggling between modes. I found that really unique in the new R5/6 to be able to set 2 different focus modes for custom buttons. Great video!!
I have it the exact same way! Still not 100% intuitive though, my fingers/brain have not learned it yet so I have still have to "think" when I'm focusing with my thumb after 20 years of focusing with my finger : ).
I have it set up almost the same way and it's so easy! What I did is limit AF options to just tracking (with eye AF enabled) and spot focus, so I can use one custom button to toggle between both modes (spot & tracking). Whatever mode I'm in, if I want the other one I'll just press it again. Then I have 'eye AF on' set up on the button next to it. This way I can be in spot focus, and then if a person walks in for just a few seconds or so that I want to focus on, I could just hold down the 'eye AF on' for a second and let it focus on the eye. Once I release that I'm right back in spot focus. It sort of adds the eye AF onto the spot focus for as long as you hold the button. That's the fastest way to switch between spot and eye AF I've found, but it's only useful for short unexpected bursts of eye AF as you have to keep holding the button to use the eye AF. If you're shooting people it's easier to just toggle to the eye tracking AF, which is also super fast with this set up.
@@cassidyallengar In the AF menu on tab 1, make sure eye detection is enabled. Then in subtab 4, click on Limit AF methods and uncheck all of them except face tracking and spot AF. Then go to the 6th menu tab (a camera with dots below it) and to subtab 3, customise buttons. The left column is for photo. Customise the AF-ON button to eye detection AF. Then customise the AF button (5th from below) to direct AF method selection. You can choose other buttons for this if you want. Those are just the ones I chose but it doesn't matter which ones you use for it, as long as you can easily reach them and don't need them for anything else. In this way, your AF button, which is easily accessible with your thumb, will toggle between the available AF methods and since you limited those to just two, it just makes you switch from face tracking to spot AF and vice versa super quick. The AF-ON button will now turn on eye AF as long as you keep pressing this button. Once you release it, the eye AF will stop. This button is useless if you're already in the face tracking AF. That already uses eye AF (as long as you have this enabled in general). But you can use this AF-ON button to quickly enable eye tracking when you're in spot AF. When you let go, you're back in spot AF. If you need eye tracking most of the time this makes no sense as you'd have to keep the button pressed the whole time. It's easier to just toggle to face tracking then. But it's very handy if you need spot AF most of the time but suddenly need eye AF sometimes. Hope this helps and goodluck!
Your comment on relearning to think differently is spot on. I tend to always use back button focus so I have my AF-on set to single point and then I map my * button to eye detect auto focus. For me this works the best for my style. Good video and keep up the good work.
2:40 "Continuous AF" may seem a good idea to have the camera autofocussing constantly, keep in mind though that this is a huge battery drain. The R5/R6 AF system is lightning fast and it will be there when you need it. I advise not to turn this setting to Enabled.
Totally agree. But, I think it depends on how you’re shooting. If you’re on a photo shoot that you know is only 30 minutes total, the drain is negligible. Where it comes into play is if you’re on vacation, walking around with your camera “active” for 1,2 hours at a time.
With a cap on the lens and the camera still active it tries to find a focus without success. With some lenses it gets to a distance setting where it doesn't autofocus anymore but stays at manual until you move it to a useful value if you continue shooting. Very annoying.
Touch and Drag AF Tip: I've found (along with many) that my nose/face often moves the AF point when I'm using the viewfinder. It took me a while to figure out what was happening (I thought the AF system was just being jumpy) but soon realized it was b/c my nose was hitting the LCD. I could simply move the area (or turn off the touch and drag) but I like it set to the right for quick thumb access. So what's the fix? My nose! I realized that I can actually use my nose to "TWITCH AND DRAG" my AF point with a great deal of accuracy if/when my face shifts it. Feels odd at first but gets the job done. I feel a bit like Samantha from Bewitched (and probably look that way too) but it's a quick fix when you need it on the fly.
So…I might be a bit late to the party but just a note / tip. The ‘Touch and Drag AF’ (3:40) and the zone is meant to be for when your using the view finder. When looking through the view finder you can easily touch the screen and drag your focus point rather than trying to manoeuvre with the joystick while keeping you eye at the viewfinder.
You can touch to focus, but not drag it around like the previous R series. And I did confirm that with Ken in earlier on, so unless they changed the firmware and the production version, which I currently don’t have, it does not have touch a drag. I get my production version very soon though so I will be delighted if they updated that!
@@VanessaJoy the difference is using viewfinder or screen. Just checked again in my R6 to be sure. Can confirm, when using viewfinder you can drag the focus point by touching-dragging on the screen in the area (half/corner) that you’ve nominated. If you’re using the screen, the touch-drag does not work (just touch). Thank you for your content..!
Lol oh geez, I thought you were commenting on a different video that a lot of people are commenting on right now with the R3 not having touch And drag 🤦🏻♀️ lol sorry!!
Fredrik, thank you for this comment! I didn't have my camera with me when I read it but understood what you meant. It's amazing to be able to drag focus while looking through the view finder, its sooooo fast. I keep it on the left side because I can just use the joystick on the right side. I hardly used the view finder with my 5Dmk4s but now with the r6ii I use it a lot more. Vanessa thanks for bringing this feature up in your video.
I change focusing modes with the control ring and set the AF-ON back button to focus with eye autofocus only. Found it great to switch between the spot, +sign area, and box area (the large bracket ones) focusing modes super fast while always having that eye autofocus at the ready on its own button. Love that this camera has so many cool ways to achieve amazing focus!!!
Ty for the video. Does back button focus any use or we can just use something else customized for af on button instead? As half press shutter do the same thing ?
I was feeling the pressure to convert to back button focus. But I have a tight thumb, and ergonomically prefer using the shutter button. I'm so grateful you helped me set it up, I feel much more confident now!
Thanks, I live in Uttar Pradesh, India. My English is not that good but my knowledge of camera settings is amazing. My New Camera Canon R8 lens 24-105 stm. ❤
Vanessa.is using spot metering give you problems like over exposure in back of subject? do you use it all the time? great videos keep up the amazing work...
I use it all the time but keep in mind i’m dialing in my exposure manually almost 100% of the time so the only time it really plays into my exposure is when I’m using TTL on my flash since it will take the metering for that from the center spot
Vanessa hi, thanks for your quick tutorial, very helpful. Only thing I noticed is that your AEB is automatically changing when moving. Would you please be able to tell me where you can change this in the R6 mII? Many thanks for your help. Bye mike
Thanks! Super helpful! Quick question please... When I hit my back screen to tell it where to focus I get a 'face select off' notification. Does anyone know what that is please? x
Thanks Vanessa. Im upgrading one of my bodies to an R5 tomorrow and will start with your recommendations. Of course we’ll be looking for the anticipated big firmware upgrade! Thanks again.
Would you ever consider removing focus from the shutter button and controlling it from the back buttons only? I do this exclusively and find it very fast and flexible along with Touch & Drag.
Whenever I go away from the camera for awhile and get hazy on operation I go back to Vanessa's slow paced - well presented and logical set up as my refresh point
Thank you for this, Vanessa. I just purchased a Canon R6. While I do youth sports, not weddings, it is still good to hear the focus system explained and broken down the way you do it. I have to say, I've been doing photography for 25 years or more, and this transition (DSLR to mirrorless (really the focusing system change)) seems even more of a change than when I went from film to digital (my camera worked basically the same then-what I had to change/learn was using a computer, and the editing software, as I knew NOTHING about computers, and when I was in school, I learned darkroom techniques since all this computer stuff wasn't invented yet)
@@VanessaJoy Thanks! I just want to make sure I have it down pat now. It's no fun trying to decipher my camera on the job! (Plus, it looks REALLY unprofessional!) I only do maybe 3 or 4 weddings a year. I actually did all of my 2021 weddings in October and November! Would you like to see? (I can put links in the comments if it interests you. Like I said though, most of our work is youth sports)
Vanessa ... thank you for this great video - amazing. A couple of clarifications: 1) at video mark 4:48, you mention metering mode. I wasn't sure how you got there?? 2) at video mark 5:03 in AF point selection, you went a little fast for me - the third icon on the bottom is highlight in blue, while the fifth icon at the top is outlined in organ - which one is it ?? 3) I am used on my 5R4 the AF-On button as a back button focus. How do you set up that feature, 4) I am NOT used to all of the blue focusing point flying all around the screen (somewhat distracting) in my 5D4, I used one point focus ??
Love this video. Thank you so much for sharing because I was trying to learn these settings after transitioning from a 5D to an R6. You deserve that cookie.
Really helpful. I have had my R6 for about 5 months now shooting video and stills, and battling with the AF. This helps immensely!!!! Thanks for a short sweet and right to the point video .
Hi. Thanks for the video. If the spot metering is only in the middle is that where you generally shot... if you use face and eye tracking and the are not in the middle does it stuff up your exposure... or does it only do this if you are in AV or auto ISO.. Thanks.
On the original EOS R (I don't know about the R5, R6 etc.), spot metering takes its reading only from the centre portion of the image. Evaluative metering, on the other hand, weights the metering towards the active focus point.
What is ur fav way to move focus points ? Is it the “Joy-Stick” ? Af on knobby like mouse thing, or the back screen. Can they give the knobby af on button to peasants like me ? Thanx luv ur hair !
My R5 is programmed with the * button as my auto eye detect back button AF, and AF-ON button is spot focus back button AF. I wish canon would allow the joystick to be back button AF on center press, like my Sony. The joystick seems faster than getting my hands all up in my face to touch the screen when I want to redirect the focus, but with the R5 I need to then slide to the right to bbaf focus, whereas with the Sony I just joystick then center press to back button AF. Still, love the R5! Great video Vanessa, interesting to hear your approach, I am not usually shooting people, so hadn’t thought of it that way.
Thanks for all the great ‘reminders’ here V. I didn’t clearly hear what kind of cookie you mentioned. My wife is an excellent baker and I was going to ask her if she knew or has heard of the kind you mentioned (in hopes she’d bake some). 😎
Im a newbie quick question! If you want to take a family photo. What settings in the focus section. I don't want the focus on one person and the rest outta focus. Ive taken some family photos and I think I got it. In the large area focus setting. Single person focus is great.
Vanessa I have a question for you! What camera profile are you using for the canon R5 Since Lightroom does not have a standard camera profile? your skin tones always look real good thank you
With new R5 in hand and you changed to metering mode quickly without showing ME.....well at 4:50 couldn't find the metering modes you made it a little complicate for a first time mirror-less user out of the box. To find the shooting mode I would press the star and touch screen change, but I still can't find the mode, I had it but its not directly remembered.......can you tell me where to go, this is horrible. I need to design the operation of these cameras one very soon and do a video
So sorry about that! You can change the metering mode by hitting Q on your LCD screen and the metering mode button is the left towards the bottom and looks something like this: [•]
Question Vanessa and to all: copied your setting but I can not drag focus point on LCD like you did. If I put my eye to view finder and drag alone the LCD with my thumb i can see the focus point move. But dragging on LCD only when not looking through viewfinder doesn’t work.
I think when looking at the LCD it’s best to tap to focus. When looking through the viewfinder it’s nice to be able to touch and drag because you may or may not totally be sure where tap is going to land
Thanks, Vanessa - find your videos most helpful. I have the Canon R5. Let's say I have a group of 8 -10 people in a single line facing (all opposite) the camera. With the area of focus options provided by the Canon R5 what would be your preferred focus option and to have all people in focus?
Have to ask Vanessa, I'm migrating this year to the RF mount. And I'm trying to decide on replacing my 24-70mm EF lens with either the RF 2.8 version or the 28-70mm f/2. Which of the 2 would you stick with if going 24mm wasn't an issue.
This video helps but I have to say you went through the settings too fast that I found it hard to follow. Thank you for sharing your viewpoints, as always, such a professional - you are!
Really enjoyed the video. Just wondered how does this work with formal group photos? For example you are photographing a bride & groom with parents or main wedding party of bridesmaids and groomsmen? What settings would you use then?
I recently purchased the canon R5. I like the idea of having the touch and drag focus option. When I touch my screen the camera takes a photo. How do you set up the touch and drag focus so that when you touch the LCD screen the camera doesn't take a photo? Thanks!!
Hi, Linda. I find the easiest way to enable/disable the touch shutter release is with the control on the lower left corner of your R5's LCD. It toggles between touch-focus and touch-focus-shutter release.
One thing I have found being a DSLR to ML convert. I do like to assign the thumb pad next to the viewfinder to also change my focus points. While I still like to hold the camera to my eye and my thumb naturally goes there from years of DSLR use.
@@VanessaJoy Yes, I know that in your other materials there is a translation. It just doesn't show the option to include subtitles for the movie. greetings
Thanks for this. I just got the R6 Mii. Upgraded from the 5d Miii and I was a little confused about the auto focus options. You addressed everything I was wondering about 😊🙏🏼
Pretty much how I have my focus settings. Only difference is that I’m using the that button for quick access to my flash settings. I’m using the button just to the right of the star to change AF type. Sometimes I use the multi function button to do the same.
2:30 shows auto focus settings. On the R10 there isn't an "AF Method" menu, there is instead "AF Area" and "Subject Tracking" as two different settings that can be combined. "AF Area" doesn't have a tracking option, only: spot, 1-point, expand AF area, expand AF area around, flexible zones, and whole area AF
Thank you so much! Switching from DSLR to Mirrorless definitely has had it's challenges. I've found when it works properly the R5 is amazing, but I've had some challenges with consistent sharp images in a series with the R5. Typically, the first image is blurry but the others are TACT sharp and in reality, there is no reason for this to be happening. To compensate, I shoot in bursts to be safe...I've basically had to go back to overshooting and viewing every image at 100% (like I did with the 5DIV), and it's extremely time consuming! I know that isn't what I should have to do - I want to be able to trust my settings, my eyes, and my equipment. I wanted to ask you about your IBIS settings. So the word is that there is a known bug (that is supposed to be fixed in the next firmware) that has to do with IBIS set to "always on". I did have mine set that way. It was suggested to use "only for shot" versus "always on" for IBIS so I made the change but after my last shoot, that issue is still happening - first shot blurry, all others in series great. I sold my 5DIV and most of my EF glass and bought the RF 85 f1.2. I have been using that lens on all sessions as well as my EF 35 f1.4 while I await my RF 28-70 (it has been on backorder since February). I always use a Flashpoint 600 pro for OCF and am shooting in Mechanical shutter in high speed continuous mode - what am I doing wrong? I did just realize (after studying your settings in the video) that I had antiflicker left on from some indoor sports shooting - maybe that has been wreaking havoc with my settings?! IDK...I just know that every setting seems to matter with this camera and I am determined to figure it out so I can consistently provide quality images to my clients. Maybe I just have to shoot this way until the next firmware, but if you have any or advice or suggestions, I'd appreciate your input. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR ALL YOU DO TO HELP PHOTOGRAPHERS IMPROVE! ♥
I always love watching your content. Your expertise and passion has been so encouraging over the years. It is definitely a mindset shift to allow the camera to do its job. LOL! I noticed a centered circle in your viewfinder, and I've seen this in other scenarios before. What is that circle? Thanks.
I have mine set to one shot on the AF back button so I can get a green focus on what I want, then I press the star button to go straight to servo/eye tracking for anything that moves. That way when a small bird blends into the background you can get a lock on it then resume eye tracking it, better than hoping your servo can find it once it's lost focus.
That sounds like a very good idea, I'm going to try that to stop the AF getting stuck on background subjects which is really annoying me, so much so that I sometimes revert to MF .. Thx. EDIT: I've tried that now and it's a really useful tip :) I've set that to C1 for birds and animals. For other small subjects e.g. a butterfly on a flower amongst a lot of foliage which has been driving me nuts I've assigned the star button to toggle AF between one shot and servo (I always use servo to correct for any slight movement handheld). So focus using one shot AF like you said and then switch to servo to take the shot. Works a treat and the AF point stays exactly where it should :) I've assinged that to C2. An exceedingly happy bunny here and many thanks for sharing your settings!
@@v8gtr glad it helped you, I think Canon should have set it up like this to begin with as so many are frustrated with the default af. I’m loving it now, before this I was wondering if I had made a bad purchase decision!
I've been on the cusp of figuring this out for too long and have shied away from my mirrorless for shoots that matter (to others, primarily). Thanks for this - the pieces finally fell into place and I look forward to taking more advantage of my mirrorless :-)
Thanks Vanessa. Earned that cookie. I prefer this AF option method over Tony and Chelsea's video on using multiple AF buttons, because it lines up better with what you can do on an eos R. You can't do Eye AF as a dedicated button on the R, but you can change focus point methods.
Can I ask how you cast/record your camera menus? Love your videos and channel. Thank you for all the amazing content and inspiration you share. Just got the R6 and can almost use it thx to you 😀
Thanks!
Appreciate you Jae!! ❤️
For those that may not know already, if it locks onto the wrong eye or the wrong person’s eye, you can use the joystick to move it to another eye or someone else entirely. I find it more accurate than touch and drag.
Excellent and concise tutorial. It’s nice to know that my settings are inline with others.
One thing I’ve done that works well for me is have my “star” button set for auto eye focus mode and “af on” for spot focus so I don’t have to mess with toggling between modes. I found that really unique in the new R5/6 to be able to set 2 different focus modes for custom buttons. Great video!!
I have it the exact same way! Still not 100% intuitive though, my fingers/brain have not learned it yet so I have still have to "think" when I'm focusing with my thumb after 20 years of focusing with my finger : ).
I have it set up almost the same way and it's so easy! What I did is limit AF options to just tracking (with eye AF enabled) and spot focus, so I can use one custom button to toggle between both modes (spot & tracking). Whatever mode I'm in, if I want the other one I'll just press it again. Then I have 'eye AF on' set up on the button next to it. This way I can be in spot focus, and then if a person walks in for just a few seconds or so that I want to focus on, I could just hold down the 'eye AF on' for a second and let it focus on the eye. Once I release that I'm right back in spot focus. It sort of adds the eye AF onto the spot focus for as long as you hold the button. That's the fastest way to switch between spot and eye AF I've found, but it's only useful for short unexpected bursts of eye AF as you have to keep holding the button to use the eye AF. If you're shooting people it's easier to just toggle to the eye tracking AF, which is also super fast with this set up.
Can you explain how you did this? Still learning this camera!
@@joannefelipa367 yes please
@@cassidyallengar In the AF menu on tab 1, make sure eye detection is enabled. Then in subtab 4, click on Limit AF methods and uncheck all of them except face tracking and spot AF.
Then go to the 6th menu tab (a camera with dots below it) and to subtab 3, customise buttons. The left column is for photo. Customise the AF-ON button to eye detection AF. Then customise the AF button (5th from below) to direct AF method selection.
You can choose other buttons for this if you want. Those are just the ones I chose but it doesn't matter which ones you use for it, as long as you can easily reach them and don't need them for anything else.
In this way, your AF button, which is easily accessible with your thumb, will toggle between the available AF methods and since you limited those to just two, it just makes you switch from face tracking to spot AF and vice versa super quick.
The AF-ON button will now turn on eye AF as long as you keep pressing this button. Once you release it, the eye AF will stop. This button is useless if you're already in the face tracking AF. That already uses eye AF (as long as you have this enabled in general). But you can use this AF-ON button to quickly enable eye tracking when you're in spot AF. When you let go, you're back in spot AF. If you need eye tracking most of the time this makes no sense as you'd have to keep the button pressed the whole time. It's easier to just toggle to face tracking then. But it's very handy if you need spot AF most of the time but suddenly need eye AF sometimes. Hope this helps and goodluck!
Your comment on relearning to think differently is spot on. I tend to always use back button focus so I have my AF-on set to single point and then I map my * button to eye detect auto focus. For me this works the best for my style. Good video and keep up the good work.
THANK YOU. I've been a Mark user for a decade and am a pro, but switching to the R5 has come with a big learning curve. This was very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
2:40 "Continuous AF" may seem a good idea to have the camera autofocussing constantly, keep in mind though that this is a huge battery drain. The R5/R6 AF system is lightning fast and it will be there when you need it. I advise not to turn this setting to Enabled.
Totally agree. But, I think it depends on how you’re shooting. If you’re on a photo shoot that you know is only 30 minutes total, the drain is negligible. Where it comes into play is if you’re on vacation, walking around with your camera “active” for 1,2 hours at a time.
With a cap on the lens and the camera still active it tries to find a focus without success. With some lenses it gets to a distance setting where it doesn't autofocus anymore but stays at manual until you move it to a useful value if you continue shooting. Very annoying.
Touch and Drag AF Tip:
I've found (along with many) that my nose/face often moves the AF point when I'm using the viewfinder. It took me a while to figure out what was happening (I thought the AF system was just being jumpy) but soon realized it was b/c my nose was hitting the LCD.
I could simply move the area (or turn off the touch and drag) but I like it set to the right for quick thumb access.
So what's the fix? My nose! I realized that I can actually use my nose to "TWITCH AND DRAG" my AF point with a great deal of accuracy if/when my face shifts it. Feels odd at first but gets the job done.
I feel a bit like Samantha from Bewitched (and probably look that way too) but it's a quick fix when you need it on the fly.
So…I might be a bit late to the party but just a note / tip.
The ‘Touch and Drag AF’ (3:40) and the zone is meant to be for when your using the view finder.
When looking through the view finder you can easily touch the screen and drag your focus point rather than trying to manoeuvre with the joystick while keeping you eye at the viewfinder.
You can touch to focus, but not drag it around like the previous R series. And I did confirm that with Ken in earlier on, so unless they changed the firmware and the production version, which I currently don’t have, it does not have touch a drag. I get my production version very soon though so I will be delighted if they updated that!
@@VanessaJoy the difference is using viewfinder or screen. Just checked again in my R6 to be sure. Can confirm, when using viewfinder you can drag the focus point by touching-dragging on the screen in the area (half/corner) that you’ve nominated.
If you’re using the screen, the touch-drag does not work (just touch).
Thank you for your content..!
Lol oh geez, I thought you were commenting on a different video that a lot of people are commenting on right now with the R3 not having touch And drag 🤦🏻♀️ lol sorry!!
Fredrik, thank you for this comment! I didn't have my camera with me when I read it but understood what you meant. It's amazing to be able to drag focus while looking through the view finder, its sooooo fast. I keep it on the left side because I can just use the joystick on the right side. I hardly used the view finder with my 5Dmk4s but now with the r6ii I use it a lot more. Vanessa thanks for bringing this feature up in your video.
I change focusing modes with the control ring and set the AF-ON back button to focus with eye autofocus only. Found it great to switch between the spot, +sign area, and box area (the large bracket ones) focusing modes super fast while always having that eye autofocus at the ready on its own button.
Love that this camera has so many cool ways to achieve amazing focus!!!
This was super helpful! I've been using the R6 for 2 years and sometimes you still discover something new!
Glad it was helpful!
Ty for the video. Does back button focus any use or we can just use something else customized for af on button instead? As half press shutter do the same thing ?
You can customize it for what we you’d like. Mine is set to picture crop ratio so I can quickly go to a 1:6 crop
Thank you so much! This is the clearest video on how to focus while using the viewfinder...I think yours was the 7th video I watched on this.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! What settings do you find best for dark receptions with on camera flash?
This isn’t a dark reception, but settings (except I’d raise the ISO to 2000) and method are the same ☺️ th-cam.com/video/-V2aAaK1jWQ/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Thank you...I just got the canon R50 and I have been messing with this feature. It works pretty good
Nice!
Nice Vanessa, I got valuable information regarding the focus system at my R5. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
I was feeling the pressure to convert to back button focus. But I have a tight thumb, and ergonomically prefer using the shutter button. I'm so grateful you helped me set it up, I feel much more confident now!
Yay glad to hear that!
Thanks! Got my R6 yesterday and will be doing an outdoor fashion shoot this weekend so this is perfect.
Yayyy
Thanks, I live in Uttar Pradesh, India. My English is not that good but my knowledge of camera settings is amazing. My New Camera Canon R8 lens 24-105 stm. ❤
How did you set your R3 auto focus settings? I’m totally new to canon. I was using Nikon D850. My main focus is wedding photography
I use AI servo, not continuous focus and fave detection (eye is default). Then I mess around with the eye control AF every once in a while
How did you make a change to metering mode? Which button you pressed?
theres a [*] looking button
Vanessa.is using spot metering give you problems like over exposure in back of subject? do you use it all the time? great videos keep up the amazing work...
I use it all the time but keep in mind i’m dialing in my exposure manually almost 100% of the time so the only time it really plays into my exposure is when I’m using TTL on my flash since it will take the metering for that from the center spot
Thank you so much, Vanessa love your videos.....
Vanessa hi, thanks for your quick tutorial, very helpful. Only thing I noticed is that your AEB is automatically changing when moving. Would you please be able to tell me where you can change this in the R6 mII?
Many thanks for your help.
Bye
mike
I’m not sure as I haven’t used that feature
Thanks! Super helpful! Quick question please... When I hit my back screen to tell it where to focus I get a 'face select off' notification. Does anyone know what that is please? x
I think that’s because you’re by tapping it changing it to spot focus if you’re not tapping on a face.
Thanks Vanessa. Im upgrading one of my bodies to an R5 tomorrow and will start with your recommendations. Of course we’ll be looking for the anticipated big firmware upgrade! Thanks again.
Congrats!
Your genuine delivery gain my complete focus. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching ☺️
Would you ever consider removing focus from the shutter button and controlling it from the back buttons only? I do this exclusively and find it very fast and flexible along with Touch & Drag.
I’ve done this in the past but like this method better personally ☺️
Shooting my first wedding with an R6 today and this helped immensely! Thank you!!
Yay fantastic!
@@VanessaJoy I want to thank you again. I don't know how I ever lived without this technique. The wedding shoot was less stressful because of this.
Whenever I go away from the camera for awhile and get hazy on operation I go back to Vanessa's slow paced - well presented and logical set up as my refresh point
Thank you for this, Vanessa. I just purchased a Canon R6. While I do youth sports, not weddings, it is still good to hear the focus system explained and broken down the way you do it. I have to say, I've been doing photography for 25 years or more, and this transition (DSLR to mirrorless (really the focusing system change)) seems even more of a change than when I went from film to digital (my camera worked basically the same then-what I had to change/learn was using a computer, and the editing software, as I knew NOTHING about computers, and when I was in school, I learned darkroom techniques since all this computer stuff wasn't invented yet)
Glad it helped! Yeah the transitions are no fun, but you’ll get there!
@@VanessaJoy Thanks! I just want to make sure I have it down pat now. It's no fun trying to decipher my camera on the job! (Plus, it looks REALLY unprofessional!)
I only do maybe 3 or 4 weddings a year. I actually did all of my 2021 weddings in October and November! Would you like to see? (I can put links in the comments if it interests you. Like I said though, most of our work is youth sports)
Great..after over a year using R10, i now know taking landscape pictures, my subject tracking was on and it kept bouncing all over the place
awww well better late than never!
@@VanessaJoy Tested out today and thank You very much! Helped so much and results are fantastic ☺️
Yay glad to hear it!
First day, shooting a wedding with the R5 this is great information. Thank you!
Yay! Good luck ☺️
The custom * button to AF point selection is brilliant. Something I’ve always thought was a pain to do quickly through settings. Thanks!
Thanks, exactly what I needed. Coming from a dslr rebel to the RP and was really confused.
So happy to hear it!
how would you shoot a group shot trying to get everyone in focus using the r6? do you turn off eye detection?
I’d tap focus on the person the the middle of the plane of focus I want ☺️
@@VanessaJoy Thanks!
Vanessa ... thank you for this great video - amazing. A couple of clarifications: 1) at video mark 4:48, you mention metering mode. I wasn't sure how you got there?? 2) at video mark 5:03 in AF point selection, you went a little fast for me - the third icon on the bottom is highlight in blue, while the fifth icon at the top is outlined in organ - which one is it ?? 3) I am used on my 5R4 the AF-On button as a back button focus. How do you set up that feature, 4) I am NOT used to all of the blue focusing point flying all around the screen (somewhat distracting) in my 5D4, I used one point focus ??
Love this video. Thank you so much for sharing because I was trying to learn these settings after transitioning from a 5D to an R6. You deserve that cookie.
Haha thx
Grazie delle info, anche se a volte troppo veloce. Saluti dall' Italia
grazie!
@@VanessaJoy per chi, come e con la EOSR10, non ha l'impostazione L+Tracking,quale suggerisci? Grazie e ciao
Really helpful. I have had my R6 for about 5 months now shooting video and stills, and battling with the AF. This helps immensely!!!!
Thanks for a short sweet and right to the point video .
so happy it's helped!
How does the exposure show on your screen that it is automatic when you focus, how is it done?
The exposure?? If you have an auto exposure on, and have it set to spot metering, then it will change to exposure based on where your focus point ia
@@VanessaJoy Sorry for the question, but where do I turn it on automatically? That is, where do I enter the settings?
Hi. Thanks for the video. If the spot metering is only in the middle is that where you generally shot... if you use face and eye tracking and the are not in the middle does it stuff up your exposure... or does it only do this if you are in AV or auto ISO.. Thanks.
Spot metering moves to wherever the focus point is
On the original EOS R (I don't know about the R5, R6 etc.), spot metering takes its reading only from the centre portion of the image. Evaluative metering, on the other hand, weights the metering towards the active focus point.
What ratio do you shoot in and why? Thanx Joy
Best tip for focusing on movement?! I was a back button focuser and now im having troubles with my r6, even on servo
Thanks Vanessa. I’m in the process of moving to Canon from Nikon, and I’m finding your instructional videos very useful!
So happy to hear it! And congrats. :-)
What is ur fav way to move focus points ? Is it the “Joy-Stick” ? Af on knobby like mouse thing, or the back screen. Can they give the knobby af on button to peasants like me ? Thanx luv ur hair !
LCD ☺️
And thanks!
@@VanessaJoy wow I haven’t heard anyone saying that....would it be an issue if I’m left eyed with a large nose ? Thx
My R5 is programmed with the * button as my auto eye detect back button AF, and AF-ON button is spot focus back button AF. I wish canon would allow the joystick to be back button AF on center press, like my Sony. The joystick seems faster than getting my hands all up in my face to touch the screen when I want to redirect the focus, but with the R5 I need to then slide to the right to bbaf focus, whereas with the Sony I just joystick then center press to back button AF. Still, love the R5! Great video Vanessa, interesting to hear your approach, I am not usually shooting people, so hadn’t thought of it that way.
Thanks for all the great ‘reminders’ here V. I didn’t clearly hear what kind of cookie you mentioned. My wife is an excellent baker and I was going to ask her if she knew or has heard of the kind you mentioned (in hopes she’d bake some). 😎
Ooooo you’ll be in for a treat!
@@VanessaJoy What was the name of the type of cookie you mentioned? I didn’t understand what you said.
Thanks for the tutorial! Can you use the eye focus on the cookie instead of changing it to single point?
I just got my R6. Upgraded from 5D MarkIV. Thanks so much, this helped a great deal.
Happy to hear it!
Hey Vanessa, how many cameras do you own now and are you planning on ditching your baby, the 1DX Mark 3 for the R1 AND R3 once they're out ????
mayyyybe? but idk... I still use my 1DXIII
@@VanessaJoy Do you still have any of your DSLR's left since you switch to mirrorless ??? other than your 1DX Mark 3, I'm just curious.
Great video. Do you know if it's possible to switch from auto-focus to manual focus while shooting?
Yes. The button on your lens.
Im a newbie quick question! If you want to take a family photo. What settings in the focus section. I don't want the focus on one person and the rest outta focus. Ive taken some family photos and I think I got it. In the large area focus setting. Single person focus is great.
Thank you Information is very useful
for users of canon R5/6
Glad it was helpful!
Vanessa I have a question for you! What camera profile are you using for the canon R5 Since Lightroom does not have a standard camera profile? your skin tones always look real good thank you
Thx! I use Adobe standard or portrait
With new R5 in hand and you changed to metering mode quickly without showing ME.....well at 4:50 couldn't find the metering modes you made it a little complicate for a first time mirror-less user out of the box. To find the shooting mode I would press the star and touch screen change, but I still can't find the mode, I had it but its not directly remembered.......can you tell me where to go, this is horrible. I need to design the operation of these cameras one very soon and do a video
So sorry about that! You can change the metering mode by hitting Q on your LCD screen and the metering mode button is the left towards the bottom and looks something like this: [•]
Question Vanessa and to all: copied your setting but I can not drag focus point on LCD like you did. If I put my eye to view finder and drag alone the LCD with my thumb i can see the focus point move. But dragging on LCD only when not looking through viewfinder doesn’t work.
I think when looking at the LCD it’s best to tap to focus. When looking through the viewfinder it’s nice to be able to touch and drag because you may or may not totally be sure where tap is going to land
@@VanessaJoy but how did you get yours to drag when using rear LCD ?
Thanks, Vanessa - find your videos most helpful. I have the Canon R5. Let's say I have a group of 8 -10 people in a single line facing (all opposite) the camera. With the area of focus options provided by the Canon R5 what would be your preferred focus option and to have all people in focus?
How to lock focus in a person?
Tap on their face and if using Ai servo keep your shutter half way pressed (or back button focus pushed) and it’ll track that person
Have to ask Vanessa, I'm migrating this year to the RF mount. And I'm trying to decide on replacing my 24-70mm EF lens with either the RF 2.8 version or the 28-70mm f/2. Which of the 2 would you stick with if going 24mm wasn't an issue.
28-70 f/2 all the way
HELP!!!! How do I download my images onto my mac!!???? I have the sandisk CF Express B card & a ProGrade card reader.
Thanks for the tips and make them with sweet bee wooow! Super special!
You are so welcome!
Thank you so much Vanessa that was a great help! You deserve that cookie!
Haha thx ☺️
group photography settings for sharp photos?
This video will help with that: do you know the secret RULES for posing group photos?
th-cam.com/video/DDek2fMgBMU/w-d-xo.html
Hi, nice video. How often do you use the electronic shutter in your weddings? Do you find it reliable under artificial light? Thanks
I almost never use it actually
I love this video, my r5 and r6 are very similar. 😊
Cool, thanks!
Thank for sharing your knowledge.
Doesn’t continuous auto focus drain the battery more quickly?
Absolutely
This video helps but I have to say you went through the settings too fast that I found it hard to follow. Thank you for sharing your viewpoints, as always, such a professional - you are!
Definitely a good video to pause and rewind 😉 settings can be annoying!
Really enjoyed the video. Just wondered how does this work with formal group photos? For example you are photographing a bride & groom with parents or main wedding party of bridesmaids and groomsmen? What settings would you use then?
Thank you this is so helpful! I just recently got the R5 and coming from a Mark IV the AF was driving me nuts!
I use the * button for eye focusing and the AF button for spot and switch back and forth between the two 👍🏻
a tip: watch series on flixzone. Been using it for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Briar James yup, have been watching on Flixzone for years myself :D
This is a silly question but do you have to hold down the * button for that?
Eye focus/ tracking ,yes
If you are using Servo Face AF, and recording video of two people talking, sitting side by side, will both remain in focus?
you can tap which is your priority
@@VanessaJoy thank you!
I recently purchased the canon R5. I like the idea of having the touch and drag focus option. When I touch my screen the camera takes a photo. How do you set up the touch and drag focus so that when you touch the LCD screen the camera doesn't take a photo? Thanks!!
Hi, Linda. I find the easiest way to enable/disable the touch shutter release is with the control on the lower left corner of your R5's LCD. It toggles between touch-focus and touch-focus-shutter release.
Thank you soooo much. This is really helpful. I was convinced something was wrong with my camera or wrong with me :).
One thing I have found being a DSLR to ML convert. I do like to assign the thumb pad next to the viewfinder to also change my focus points. While I still like to hold the camera to my eye and my thumb naturally goes there from years of DSLR use.
Thanks for your nice and very informative vedio
Thanks for commenting ☺️
Hello, I have a question, why can't you turn on the translation in this material?
Not sure how to do that. Do you know?
@@VanessaJoy Yes, I know that in your other materials there is a translation. It just doesn't show the option to include subtitles for the movie. greetings
Thanks for this. I just got the R6 Mii. Upgraded from the 5d Miii and I was a little confused about the auto focus options. You addressed everything I was wondering about 😊🙏🏼
Touch and drag AF can be a problem as I'm left eyed and my nose seems to be doing the focusing for me.
So true
Pretty much how I have my focus settings. Only difference is that I’m using the that button for quick access to my flash settings. I’m using the button just to the right of the star to change AF type. Sometimes I use the multi function button to do the same.
2:30 shows auto focus settings.
On the R10 there isn't an "AF Method" menu, there is instead "AF Area" and "Subject Tracking" as two different settings that can be combined.
"AF Area" doesn't have a tracking option, only: spot, 1-point, expand AF area, expand AF area around, flexible zones, and whole area AF
Good point! There are some nuances to each camera, especially the newer ones.
That helped, thanks so much!
Happy to hear it!
Hi Vanessa thanks for all the videos, learn heaps from you. Question why are you always on spot metering ?
Hey Vanessa!!! Thank you for this tutorial I have the R and have been struggling with this and you’ve helped so much to clear a couple of issues up
Great!!
Major thanks. Just purchased the R6 and it was driving me mad until I saw your vid. Best wishes from Dublin, Ire..
Just wanted to say that I love Pignoli.
The BEST right?
Thank you so much! Switching from DSLR to Mirrorless definitely has had it's challenges. I've found when it works properly the R5 is amazing, but I've had some challenges with consistent sharp images in a series with the R5. Typically, the first image is blurry but the others are TACT sharp and in reality, there is no reason for this to be happening. To compensate, I shoot in bursts to be safe...I've basically had to go back to overshooting and viewing every image at 100% (like I did with the 5DIV), and it's extremely time consuming! I know that isn't what I should have to do - I want to be able to trust my settings, my eyes, and my equipment. I wanted to ask you about your IBIS settings. So the word is that there is a known bug (that is supposed to be fixed in the next firmware) that has to do with IBIS set to "always on". I did have mine set that way. It was suggested to use "only for shot" versus "always on" for IBIS so I made the change but after my last shoot, that issue is still happening - first shot blurry, all others in series great. I sold my 5DIV and most of my EF glass and bought the RF 85 f1.2. I have been using that lens on all sessions as well as my EF 35 f1.4 while I await my RF 28-70 (it has been on backorder since February). I always use a Flashpoint 600 pro for OCF and am shooting in Mechanical shutter in high speed continuous mode - what am I doing wrong? I did just realize (after studying your settings in the video) that I had antiflicker left on from some indoor sports shooting - maybe that has been wreaking havoc with my settings?! IDK...I just know that every setting seems to matter with this camera and I am determined to figure it out so I can consistently provide quality images to my clients. Maybe I just have to shoot this way until the next firmware, but if you have any or advice or suggestions, I'd appreciate your input. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR ALL YOU DO TO HELP PHOTOGRAPHERS IMPROVE! ♥
Your nana sounds paranoid, and hilarious! She’s created her own form of encryption! I do the same thing when I write down my passwords ;)
I always love watching your content. Your expertise and passion has been so encouraging over the years. It is definitely a mindset shift to allow the camera to do its job. LOL! I noticed a centered circle in your viewfinder, and I've seen this in other scenarios before. What is that circle? Thanks.
thank you. setup like you recommend , ill check it out thank u.
I have mine set to one shot on the AF back button so I can get a green focus on what I want, then I press the star button to go straight to servo/eye tracking for anything that moves. That way when a small bird blends into the background you can get a lock on it then resume eye tracking it, better than hoping your servo can find it once it's lost focus.
That sounds like a very good idea, I'm going to try that to stop the AF getting stuck on background subjects which is really annoying me, so much so that I sometimes revert to MF .. Thx.
EDIT: I've tried that now and it's a really useful tip :) I've set that to C1 for birds and animals.
For other small subjects e.g. a butterfly on a flower amongst a lot of foliage which has been driving me nuts I've assigned the star button to toggle AF between one shot and servo (I always use servo to correct for any slight movement handheld). So focus using one shot AF like you said and then switch to servo to take the shot. Works a treat and the AF point stays exactly where it should :) I've assinged that to C2.
An exceedingly happy bunny here and many thanks for sharing your settings!
@@v8gtr glad it helped you, I think Canon should have set it up like this to begin with as so many are frustrated with the default af. I’m loving it now, before this I was wondering if I had made a bad purchase decision!
You’ve earned the cookie! :) Especially for the star-tip. Been using back-button AF for years, but the star I haven’t tried. Thanks!
Yay happy I could help
I've been on the cusp of figuring this out for too long and have shied away from my mirrorless for shoots that matter (to others, primarily). Thanks for this - the pieces finally fell into place and I look forward to taking more advantage of my mirrorless :-)
Happy it helped!
U r my teacher❤😍
great video. I'm really loving the R5 so far. Fantastic camera.
IT defiantly takes a minute to get used to mirrorless after years of DSLR. Nice video!
Thanks Vanessa. Earned that cookie. I prefer this AF option method over Tony and Chelsea's video on using multiple AF buttons, because it lines up better with what you can do on an eos R.
You can't do Eye AF as a dedicated button on the R, but you can change focus point methods.
I also liked your tip on setting up the Star button. I never thought of doing this.
Can I ask how you cast/record your camera menus? Love your videos and channel. Thank you for all the amazing content and inspiration you share. Just got the R6 and can almost use it thx to you 😀
Atomos ninja :)
Always real world explanations, thank you very much.
Helpful indeed
Glad you think so!