The fuel pump is in place. Originally the Rotax air filter bracket include lugs so the pump was mounted vertically beside the carb but the lugs cracked. So Rotax always intended to provide bottom access to the carb bowl plug. My carb is mounted on a V bracket off the air filter bracket. Fuel in the carb bowl doesn't slow down the jet change. I just wrap a rag around the driver handle to capture the fuel.
The original Rotax airbox bracket had two lugs on the left side for the fuel pump and the large hole in the bottom of the bracket. Clearly Rotax always intended to allow bottom access to the carb bowl to make changing the jet easy. No one made a tool set like this to make use of that access. The airbox bracket was changed because the lugs cracked with fatigue. At present the Rotax rules for fuel pump location vary depending on what flavour of Rotax engine you run. That makes no sense. There is no particular reason why the fuel pump has to be located right below the carb. I submitted a rule change proposal to make the rules the same for all Rotax engines and to allow clear access to the carb bowl. I suggest you also submit a rule change proposal. It just makes sense to provide clear access to the carb bowl.
I mount the fuel pump off to one side of the air filter bracket. This is similar to the earliest mounting arrangement seen on Rotax engines. This was discontinued because the tabs on the air filter bracket fatigued and cracked.
There is easier way than that. Unscrew engine sided clamp, insert needleless syringe into the little hose on top of the carb. Turn the carb towards the seat, suck the fuel out of the carb with the syringe, change main jet without single drop of fuel, turn carb back to its correct position, empty the syringe into the carb and remove, fasten the engine sided clamp and drive away.
The fuel pump is in place. Originally the Rotax air filter bracket include lugs so the pump was mounted vertically beside the carb but the lugs cracked. So Rotax always intended to provide bottom access to the carb bowl plug. My carb is mounted on a V bracket off the air filter bracket.
Fuel in the carb bowl doesn't slow down the jet change. I just wrap a rag around the driver handle to capture the fuel.
but that fuel pump location will get you a tech DQ in Rmax series
Now do the same again with the fuel in the cabretta and the pulse pump in place.
I like the concept of this method, however your access point is where the fuel pump is located thus hampering quick change.
The original Rotax airbox bracket had two lugs on the left side for the fuel pump and the large hole in the bottom of the bracket. Clearly Rotax always intended to allow bottom access to the carb bowl to make changing the jet easy. No one made a tool set like this to make use of that access. The airbox bracket was changed because the lugs cracked with fatigue.
At present the Rotax rules for fuel pump location vary depending on what flavour of Rotax engine you run. That makes no sense. There is no particular reason why the fuel pump has to be located right below the carb. I submitted a rule change proposal to make the rules the same for all Rotax engines and to allow clear access to the carb bowl.
I suggest you also submit a rule change proposal. It just makes sense to provide clear access to the carb bowl.
buy the finger tightener for the float chamber
Nice tool kit but what about the fuel that "always" pisses out when you change jets??
Can you please add a link to the tool?
how do you do it with the fuel pump in ?
I mount the fuel pump off to one side of the air filter bracket. This is similar to the earliest mounting arrangement seen on Rotax engines. This was discontinued because the tabs on the air filter bracket fatigued and cracked.
There is easier way than that. Unscrew engine sided clamp, insert needleless syringe into the little hose on top of the carb. Turn the carb towards the seat, suck the fuel out of the carb with the syringe, change main jet without single drop of fuel, turn carb back to its correct position, empty the syringe into the carb and remove, fasten the engine sided clamp and drive away.
Can you do that in 45 seconds?
@@darrenconway8117 Yes.
@@MatrixTheme Video ???
Just wrap a rag around the driver handle.