Brilliant video. All videos on this channel are very clear and easy to understand. Brilliant channel and a great learning resource even for those like myself who have been in the game for a while but may lack knowledge in a particular area.
Just like to say you're the best lecturer I came across. Please, can you do a vid of emergency lighting ..from key switch to normal light then to numbers of point emergency light. thank you
Would just like to say what a great help your videos are. I have just started my electrical training and you help make everything seem very simple. Keep it up mate.
Great channel here! Just started college on Level 2 City and Guilds qualification,while already having basic electrical understanding and having an electrical background,your videos have helped me immensley,Having a useless tutor and having to try this multiple switching stuff at 9am had me confused and angry but thanks to your videos,Monday will be a breeze!
Yes this was considered a no no when I was an apprentice but, there were times it couldn't be avoided as in houses that had no loft hatch you could fish to the ceiling rose or hopefully pull through on the old cable. As long as the the neutral went through the switch unbroken was deemed passable.
Hi Gary. All your videos are great. Just wondering if you have a video for 2 plate 2 gang light switch? So line in and out to the next room, plus one switch controlling one light and the other switch controlling another light in the same room. That would seem to suggest 4 neutrals in a wago 221 plus 2 common and a bridging common to the other common, plus L1 switch line to the first light on 1st switch and L2 switch line to the second light on second switch. Is that correct please?
I'm doing this myself after very high quotes... I struggled to find a power source but then saw a video of yours where you could take the power source from a working light on a 4 gang plate and had decided to go with this. I saw another video of yours using the intermediate or 3 way switching method which showed the multiple ceiling lights extension of the above, but can't find it now. But looking at this diagram, and taking the feed from an adjacent switch, I would need to take both the neutral and line feeds to the switch, then follow your explananation in the video. Only question i have i guess is the continuation of the lights but if they are all linked through then this would work... I'll keep searching for the lighting diagram you had with interdiate switches, power to the plate and extending to multiple ceiling lights. Thanks, agree with everyone else, very clear.
Great video explanation. However could you clarify one point on a 2 gang one way switch..I presume the third cable to switch on other lights switch live into L2, all neutrals in block together and earth's connected to back box ?
I have a light switch with the dual three core cable configuration shown in the first half of this video. 1 way switching for two lights in the room. The ceiling roses both seem to have a lot of cables though. How may I test if the two blue cables in the switch are neutrals please?
I have existing two way lighting in my garage powering two flourescent tubes. Main switch with the input near the back door and secondary switch by the main garge door. I want to take power to a new 2 gang switch (in the middle of the garage) to individually control two new directional LED lights (brighter for working on cars). Is there a video that covers this scenario please, or do I follow this one and need 4 core cable? Thanks
I believe you can also put the black core and permanent feed into a connector in the first switch. Then connect the switch cable into the common. ( also vise versa, permanent feed into first switch common. And Switch core and black cable connected together)
My new build in Edinburgh is wired using the first technique you describe. Which does seem more intuitive to me, as I always find it trickier to follow what’s going on when terminals are shared by more than one wire. And your second technique (where the current flows through the first switch before being routed to the second, rather than going through the second switch first) seems most intuitive of all. So I’m curious why it wouldn’t always be done like that.
Hi. If you are joining into the loop in the ceiling and taking it down to the switch, do you need 2 twin & earth cables to the switch, 1 supply in and the other supply out to the rest of the house? Or can you just use a junction in the ceiling and feed the switch with a single twin & earth?
Another great video. Can you demonstrate how you would carry the live feed to the next room using this method for all 3 switching types. Once again thanks Gaz! I wish I was your trainee.
Compared to the way we do it here (Belgium), this seems unnecessarily complicated, and I don't think this would work with a dimmer (the ones sold here require live feed to COM). We run black and grey (no sleeving) between the two-ways (+intermediates), link brown through from the live feed to the COM of the furthest switch, and connect the switched feed to the light to the COM of the nearest switch. It's also considered good practice to connect a neutral through to all the switches, which results in having a neutral and live feed behind all switches for future expansion or modification (f.e. an extra switch for an extra set of lights or swapping the switch for the receiver of a wireless system). The live feed and switched live can be swapped, resulting in having a switched live instead of a live feed behind all switches to allow for adding a wall-mounted light that switches on/off together with the ceiling lights, without having to take its supply from the first switch or a ceiling light.
Would it be good practice to use this method for two way switching as well as feed another room. So L1 would have loop in loop out (to another room) and feed for two way switch (3 cables in L1)? Once again great video
@@GSHElectrical thanks for the reply Is there any configuration where the 2 plate method allows the radial / lights to be connected to the intermediate?
Hi, Thanks for your great tutorial. Could you please tell me how you would take the supply to another room from a 2 way switch using this connection method at the switch? Would you use a fourth cable and connect the lines into a wago? If so would 4 cables all fit ok into a 2 way switch? Many thanks
In some way supply into switch is a better method than loop in box. Is it ok if add another light eg wall light being added with twin switch to feed off permanent live from wago connectors into common of the next switch. And also same with neutral connectors but separate.
From the switch take the permanent line, neutral and cpc to the next room. This can feed the switch or a lighting point if you want to implement the 3 plate loop-in method th-cam.com/video/gOy486TUtHY/w-d-xo.html Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical
Do you always have to use 3 core for this? Could you not use two core and just have the main feed in com and then neutrals in L2 and then your line conductors going to the lamp in L1? And then any extra feeds coming off of the com along with the main feed?
Great video! Well explained, if i wanted to run a cable out of this to feed the next room would it be a case of having 3 live cores going into the first L1 switch with the neutral also feeding into that connector block? Cheers 👍
Hi, to feed another room you would take the permanent line (live) from L1 the neutral from the connector and a CPC (earth) to the next room. Thanks for watching. Gaz 👍
Great video!, What do you do with all the earths when it's a 2/3/4 gang switch. Scenario: I'm using chop-block to connect neutrals and earths in the metal back box, I'm not using the backbox earth terminal as it would be to tight for 4+ wires. is what I'm doing okay or should you always have an earth connected to a metal back box? Thanks for the education :D
Great explanation! 2 questions: Firstly, presumably it's ok to have the wago connector shown (or similar) within a light switch? Secondly, the diagrams imply that if there is an earth point on the face plate as well as the back box, these should be linked together as shown eg. for a metal/chrome face plate? Thank you.
Wiring a led mirror from a light switch, and the mirror only works when the lights are off. When the lights are on the mirror flashes and then goes off. Wired using live into common and neutral into l1, any help ? Cheers.
Thanks for the reply. They ask for neither but the assessor said “2 plate” when I queried it. The instructions on the schedule says it requires a neutral at each switch on a 2 way and intermediate system
Hi. No. Loop the permanent line off the common to the (new) next common and then take a switching line from L1 and a neutral and cpc from the connectors up to the new lighting points 👍. Gaz
years gone by this was frowned upon neutrals at switch positions, just a bit of info for the new generation sparks, great vid.
dav01kar thanks
Brilliant video. All videos on this channel are very clear and easy to understand. Brilliant channel and a great learning resource even for those like myself who have been in the game for a while but may lack knowledge in a particular area.
Best video very well explained very clear . Wish I had found this video about 100 videos ago
rich slingo hi Rich, I have a series of videos coming out on the 2 plate method in the coming weeks 👍. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 😁
Clear and professional as always, but also super concise this time. Thank you.
👍🏻
Just like to say you're the best lecturer I came across. Please, can you do a vid of emergency lighting ..from key switch to normal light then to numbers of point emergency light. thank you
I have been looking for days for someone to explain this. Thank you.
No problem 👍
Clear, precise steps on two way switching connection to supply. Excellent presentation and graphics. Thank you.
Would just like to say what a great help your videos are. I have just started my electrical training and you help make everything seem very simple. Keep it up mate.
Wow thanks for taking the time to message me with those kind words... all the best with your studies 👍
GSH Electrical Thanks for the great content mate!
Subbed
Thank you. A very detailed yet simple to follow explanation.
Nice. Easily the best video for 2 way switch wiring
Thanks 👍🏻
Great video refresher for a job about to undertake converting a fed 1 way switch to 2 way, thanks GSH 👍
Great channel here! Just started college on Level 2 City and Guilds qualification,while already having basic electrical understanding and having an electrical background,your videos have helped me immensley,Having a useless tutor and having to try this multiple switching stuff at 9am had me confused and angry but thanks to your videos,Monday will be a breeze!
Thanks for posting this. Very clear explaination.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻 Gaz
Thanks! Best explain I ever had! 👍👍👍👍👍
Laura Jank thanks 👍
great video I've literally just had this two way scenario today at my friends build
Hi. Thanks for the lovely comment Gaz 👍
Yes this was considered a no no when I was an apprentice but, there were times it couldn't be avoided as in houses that had no loft hatch you could fish to the ceiling rose or hopefully pull through on the old cable. As long as the the neutral went through the switch unbroken was deemed passable.
Simple things are the best great video
Hi. Many thanks for the support it’s greatly appreciated 👍.
Hi Gary. All your videos are great. Just wondering if you have a video for 2 plate 2 gang light switch? So line in and out to the next room, plus one switch controlling one light and the other switch controlling another light in the same room. That would seem to suggest 4 neutrals in a wago 221 plus 2 common and a bridging common to the other common, plus L1 switch line to the first light on 1st switch and L2 switch line to the second light on second switch. Is that correct please?
I'm doing this myself after very high quotes... I struggled to find a power source but then saw a video of yours where you could take the power source from a working light on a 4 gang plate and had decided to go with this. I saw another video of yours using the intermediate or 3 way switching method which showed the multiple ceiling lights extension of the above, but can't find it now. But looking at this diagram, and taking the feed from an adjacent switch, I would need to take both the neutral and line feeds to the switch, then follow your explananation in the video. Only question i have i guess is the continuation of the lights but if they are all linked through then this would work... I'll keep searching for the lighting diagram you had with interdiate switches, power to the plate and extending to multiple ceiling lights. Thanks, agree with everyone else, very clear.
Another good video . Thank you
Thanks again Gaz
Great video explanation. However could you clarify one point on a 2 gang one way switch..I presume the third cable to switch on other lights switch live into L2, all neutrals in block together and earth's connected to back box ?
I have a light switch with the dual three core cable configuration shown in the first half of this video. 1 way switching for two lights in the room. The ceiling roses both seem to have a lot of cables though. How may I test if the two blue cables in the switch are neutrals please?
I have existing two way lighting in my garage powering two flourescent tubes. Main switch with the input near the back door and secondary switch by the main garge door. I want to take power to a new 2 gang switch (in the middle of the garage) to individually control two new directional LED lights (brighter for working on cars). Is there a video that covers this scenario please, or do I follow this one and need 4 core cable? Thanks
I believe you can also put the black core and permanent feed into a connector in the first switch. Then connect the switch cable into the common. ( also vise versa, permanent feed into first switch common. And Switch core and black cable connected together)
My new build in Edinburgh is wired using the first technique you describe. Which does seem more intuitive to me, as I always find it trickier to follow what’s going on when terminals are shared by more than one wire.
And your second technique (where the current flows through the first switch before being routed to the second, rather than going through the second switch first) seems most intuitive of all.
So I’m curious why it wouldn’t always be done like that.
Hi. If you are joining into the loop in the ceiling and taking it down to the switch, do you need 2 twin & earth cables to the switch, 1 supply in and the other supply out to the rest of the house? Or can you just use a junction in the ceiling and feed the switch with a single twin & earth?
Another great video. Can you demonstrate how you would carry the live feed to the next room using this method for all 3 switching types.
Once again thanks Gaz!
I wish I was your trainee.
👍 good video
Hi. Thanks for the support just sitting editing a new one 👍
Why so many dislikes. Good video for all apprentices 👍🏻
Thanks Brad 👍
Compared to the way we do it here (Belgium), this seems unnecessarily complicated, and I don't think this would work with a dimmer (the ones sold here require live feed to COM).
We run black and grey (no sleeving) between the two-ways (+intermediates), link brown through from the live feed to the COM of the furthest switch, and connect the switched feed to the light to the COM of the nearest switch. It's also considered good practice to connect a neutral through to all the switches, which results in having a neutral and live feed behind all switches for future expansion or modification (f.e. an extra switch for an extra set of lights or swapping the switch for the receiver of a wireless system). The live feed and switched live can be swapped, resulting in having a switched live instead of a live feed behind all switches to allow for adding a wall-mounted light that switches on/off together with the ceiling lights, without having to take its supply from the first switch or a ceiling light.
In this case both twin and earth cable and 3 core cable are 1mm2?
If you have a 2g switch so 2x sw lives out instead of the one like shown do you just link the feed in feed out across
Is it possible to do the two way switching circuit with twin and earth rather than the three core cable? Thanks
Would it be good practice to use this method for two way switching as well as feed another room. So L1 would have loop in loop out (to another room) and feed for two way switch (3 cables in L1)?
Once again great video
Hi. Yep not issues with taking a neutral from the connector and the line from say L1. Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
Perfect 👍
Great video
Can the lights be connected to the intermediate switch?
Not in this case
@@GSHElectrical thanks for the reply
Is there any configuration where the 2 plate method allows the radial / lights to be connected to the intermediate?
Hi, Thanks for your great tutorial.
Could you please tell me how you would take the supply to another room from a 2 way switch using this connection method at the switch?
Would you use a fourth cable and connect the lines into a wago?
If so would 4 cables all fit ok into a 2 way switch?
Many thanks
Taking the Feed (Supply) to the Switch and Connections Explained In a Domestic Dwelling th-cam.com/video/_5uPVw4Mu8o/w-d-xo.html
This may help👍
@@GSHElectrical Wow that's fantastic, just what I was looking for many thanks for your reply!
Can you confirm, is this the prefered method wiring Line in and Neural to the switch ?
In some way supply into switch is a better method than loop in box. Is it ok if add another light eg wall light being added with twin switch to feed off permanent live from wago connectors into common of the next switch. And also same with neutral connectors but separate.
Raj Nirvan hi, I am currently working on a set of videos like you described 👍. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
Silly question but how do you connect to the next light. For example the next room has another set of downlights?
From the switch take the permanent line, neutral and cpc to the next room. This can feed the switch or a lighting point if you want to implement the 3 plate loop-in method th-cam.com/video/gOy486TUtHY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical
I know it may sound silly but can I take permanent supply from the intermediate switch?
Do you always have to use 3 core for this? Could you not use two core and just have the main feed in com and then neutrals in L2 and then your line conductors going to the lamp in L1?
And then any extra feeds coming off of the com along with the main feed?
Hi this is another method for 2 ways switching
th-cam.com/video/7_5rnJ45gpI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Gaz
Great video! Well explained, if i wanted to run a cable out of this to feed the next room would it be a case of having 3 live cores going into the first L1 switch with the neutral also feeding into that connector block? Cheers 👍
Hi, to feed another room you would take the permanent line (live) from L1 the neutral from the connector and a CPC (earth) to the next room. Thanks for watching. Gaz 👍
GSH Electrical thanks a lot for the reply 👍
What if I want to come into first switch from DB then 2 way > intermediate > 2 way and then to my light??
Great video!, What do you do with all the earths when it's a 2/3/4 gang switch. Scenario: I'm using chop-block to connect neutrals and earths in the metal back box, I'm not using the backbox earth terminal as it would be to tight for 4+ wires. is what I'm doing okay or should you always have an earth connected to a metal back box? Thanks for the education :D
Great explanation! 2 questions: Firstly, presumably it's ok to have the wago connector shown (or similar) within a light switch? Secondly, the diagrams imply that if there is an earth point on the face plate as well as the back box, these should be linked together as shown eg. for a metal/chrome face plate? Thank you.
Correct correct 👌
U can’t beat switch fed😉😉
Can I take a spur off an outside cable so I can add additional lights..?..
Quick answer is Yes.
@@GSHElectrical what do I buy.. I got cable going to 1 set of lights but I need to add another light elsewhere...
Excellent
Hi. Many thanks GSH Electrical
Wiring a led mirror from a light switch, and the mirror only works when the lights are off. When the lights are on the mirror flashes and then goes off. Wired using live into common and neutral into l1, any help ? Cheers.
all neutrals should be joined together in a wago as shown in diagram. watch the first 30 seconds of the video and youll see. Good luck!
The AM2 asks for the neutral to be at every switch,can you confirm this.
Hi Simon. They give you a wiring diagram so it’s just a case of following the requirements.... thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
Yes I’m currently sitting my AM2 and they do want a neutral at every switch, no wiring diagram was provided for me though...
Spent 3 years on college being taught the loop in method then to be thrown into my AM2 to be told to wire 2 plate
Hi Adam, so the instruction was to feed the switch but rather than saying that they said “2 plate”?
Thanks Gaz 👍
Hi Adam, I have added 2 plate to the description and will cover this in one of my videos. Thanks for the heads up for AM2 and watching. Gaz
Thanks for the reply. They ask for neither but the assessor said “2 plate” when I queried it. The instructions on the schedule says it requires a neutral at each switch on a 2 way and intermediate system
Set of 8 LED Lights on a dimmer switch not turning off. What have I done wrong?
If it was a 2 gang switch, do you need to keep the neutrals separate. Thanks
Hi. No. Loop the permanent line off the common to the (new) next common and then take a switching line from L1 and a neutral and cpc from the connectors up to the new lighting points 👍. Gaz
@@GSHElectrical Brilliant. Thanks for the quick reply and the great information in the video also. Cheers.
You forgot to say, I hope this video has been of some help =]
Hi. Gutted I did forget 👍
Cheers.
My switch has no blue wires