Calling out all ? 3 or so guys who did these vids, showing wick replacements on the dura heat/dyna glow type heaters. Each one of you edited out the hardest, most confounding parts of replacing these dang wicks. Pulling off & putting back the ratchet/ gear stud into the slot. That's the hardest thing to do! Show everything please. We don't care if you had to struggle a bit, but at least we'd know what to expect!
I apologize for not showing the part you were interested in. I thought I showed all parts people might have had trouble with but I apparently missed something. I've been in your shoes many times and understand the frustration! It's been a long time and I don't remember exactly how that part assembles/disassembles.
This unit works very well th-cam.com/users/postUgkxl2o1MQU4aMgmFk_cMqer4nH2ptpDEM6h Considering the price I paid for this, I didn't have high expectations, but now after using it, I consider this is a well designed heater. Do be aware that doing the dry burn on the wick as recommended (or at least every two tanks) is absolutely necessary to avoid an unclean burn, fortunately it's easy enough to do. I'm burning dyed K1 kerosene and do a dry burn every two tanks and this is working great. This unit will heat a little over the 500 square feet that it is rated for depending on the temperature. On days it isn't bitter cold this heater will do a fair amount more. This makes an excellent emergency heat source, and also in my situation, it is a little more efficient than the electric heat in the teen temps and below.
Makes sense. More BTU is useful in a detached garage especially if you don't normally heat it. Cold concrete sucks heat out of the air spectacularly quickly.
This video is exactly an instructional video should be! Straight forward, all the need to know covered without the typically added , useless content. The audio and video were clear and. Understandable. I gladly subscribed to what is now a trusted source of need to know when u need it. information. Thanks for your time.
Thank you for this video. I was able to replace my wick in my heater. My only issue was getting the wick out and then putting it back. Other than that, it was simple. I have it running now and it's so warm.
Yes thank u very much very understanding of how to replace a wick in the box kerosene heater I'm confident that i can do this myself love ur video blessings to u 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. I just sat down in my living room and changed my wick on the same heater, thanks to you! I sincerely appreciate it! -Carolyn in N.Carolina
Glad it helped. Wicks tend to be interchangeable among numerous brands/models of heaters. This technology was perfected a century ago so there isn't much out there for proprietary patents to muck up the aftermarket replacement part industry.
Thanks K-24. Just what i needed to see. I got a couple of old K-heaters that need new wicks. The wood burner in my shop can't keep the place warm when its ( -2c ) windchill outside so its time to supplement a little . Great video , i learned enough to do the different brands i have !! Once again THANKS for the brain power . sailersteve .
Good heater. Thanks for the video. One note; the wick is more adjustable than you show. The knob needs to be pulled in and out to ratchet the wick down and not shut it down completely. It is then fine adjustable a little from there.
I have a similar kerosene heater Zibro Kamin R30C and I think you solved what i thought was a problem just by watching your video .I installed a new Wick and everything seems to be working fine But the flame adjusting knob only raises the Wick it doesnt go in reverse to lower the wick/flame, (as my older Corona kerosene does) so i thought i did something wrong reassembling the heater. I noticed your adjustment knob doesn't go in reverse either.(because of the ratcheting mechanism) wont allow the knob to be turned in the opposite direction.
Great video: clear and concise. I have a Sears 40202 heater with a 2 piece wick. Would you know of a 1 piece wick that would replace the Americam Wick AW40 2 piece? The heater is rated at 9300 BTU. Thank you!
Great video! Thank you! How soon would you recommend performing a dry-burn after installing a new wick? I've been dreading this project for a while but your video is THE best I've seen on this subject. Thanks again!
No need to dry burn unless you have a problem. If a dry burn doesn't fix the issue then new fuel and/or a new wick is probably the solution. You'll likely go hundreds of hours or more without needing any maintenance if your fuel is decent quality.
@@knurlgnar24 Hey thanks! I changed the wick yesterday and thanks to you it went smoothly and easily. Today my heater is working perfectly. Getting the pinion lined up in the ratchet mechanism was a little tricky but eventually it clicked into place and was fine. My understanding (per the manual) is that these combination cotton/fiberglass wicks need to be broken in by dryburning after the first initial 5 or 6 uses to insure long life. Who knows. I've been buying clear kerosene at the pump (locally) for over 15 years and have never had a problem ($5.49/gal as of yesterday). When compared to big-box retailers (including Amazon) charging anywhere from $15/20 gallon and the relatively low cost of a wick replacement, I'll take my chances now that I am comfortable with the procedure (again, THANK YOU). I use my heater almost every day and those insane prices just are not sustainable. Even if I end up changing the wick once a month I'm still ahead $$$ after a single day's use. Best wishes for an especially nice Holiday Season my friend!
I can't get the wick harness off, it seems like it's stuck, I tried pulling on it, twisting it back and forth, but nothing works, do you have any suggestions, I appreciate your video...Thx
Not that this matters-7 years later, but disassembly instructions are (or should be) included in the owners manual. They are in the manual for my Sengoku CTN-110. Just FYI for anyone who doesn’t want to just “wing it”. Not saying you were just winging it. I assume you read the manual before making the video.
Thanks for the comment. I agree - always read the instruction manual first. Unfortunately they only make them for liability limitation purposes anymore and useful information is scarce in them to protect their legal butts.
I bought a dyna-glow brand at walmart for $10 and it even came with a new igniter. My heater is a kerosun radiant 36 brand and model. This fit perfectly and I think even the igniter is going to fit, I haven't tried it yet. I trimmed the old one and put it away I'm pretty sure I can still use it after trimming the bad stuff off. I also cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and a cotton shirt. I need to take my new one out and reinstall it I've got it too high. I can adjust it to where it burns just fine but it won't go down low enough to extinguish it and the proper use adjustment has it turned almost all the way down so it's installed way too high. You can tell that these things are made long enough that you can trim them without it ending up too short. How was the quality on this one you got? By the way 6/16 of an inch is 3/8.
You should be able to clean that top area of the old wick. Letting the heater run dry helps to remove deposits. Comb the wick with a small wire type brush. Where did you get your wicks at? I cannot buy them anywhere in my city.
I did clean the wick mechanically and it didn't work for me. I also tried dry burning them. Perhaps something like acetone might have worked - I don't know. I ended up buying new ones from Lowes. Online retailers sell them too.
lehmans.com is a good site for harder to find antique wicks, but for an ordinary kerosene heater made in the last 50 years a site like amazon should carry what you're looking for, though you may need to do a little research on exactly what model wick you need.
Hi guys, as it seems that I’m not the only one having problems putting the wick back to its place, after being successful I wrote to myself how to do it. I’m sorry as I’m Spanish I did in Spanish, I hope you can translate it and it works to you: Después de colocar la nueva mecha, con el émbolo de seguridad (el que hace que la estufa se apague automáticamente) en posición de reposo, girar el botón a la derecha al máximo, asegurándose que los engranajes enganchan hasta el final. Para ello el eje no debe estar enganchado al mecanismo que hace subir la mecha, pero es posible que necesite tocarla, aunque sea por la parte exterior. A continuación, asegurándose con la mano izquierda que el émbolo de seguridad no se activa (se cae a un lado), enganchar el eje con el soporte que sube la mecha, colocar en la base de la estufa y poner una palometa (o aguantar con la mano hacia abajo). Comprobar varias veces que la mecha sube hasta arriba y que se engancha en el engranaje (suena cada vez que pasa al siguiente eslabón) y a continuación tocando el botón de apagado la mecha debe desaparecer completamente. Repetir este paso al menos 5 veces y si no falla montar la estufa de nuevo
Hey knurlgnar24 - If you get one that is loaded with tar like that you can take it outside and let it burn dry till it goes all the way out, then let it sit for a half hour or so and lite it and let it burn dry again. It will burn a lot of that tar/carbon off of the fiberglass. I have brought back several wicks that way.
***** I tried dry burning it twice and it didn't seem to make much difference. I then tried high (relatively high) concentrations of alcohol mixed with clean kerosene and while it burned reasonably well on the kero/alcohol mix it went back to its smelly self when using only kero. I wonder if this particular heater isn't designed to allow the wick to up high enough to adequately dry burn it? I considered adjusting the wick so it would go up a little higher and potentially dry burn better but in the end it's a $10 wick and if I'm going through that bother I thought I might as well replace it. Would be nice to know if it works though.
Hey, I think it was you that had a video on running kerosene wick style heaters on straight diesel. If so, could you comment on what kind of diesel you use (D1, D2, etc) and the diesel additive you use? Have you tried running them without the additive and were your symptoms similar to mine?
***** No it wasn't me, I haven't ever ran mine on diesel. I have see a lot of garages and stuff that will run the salamanders on diesel. I run mine on pump K1
***** OK, thanks. Must have been someone else. I have a salamander style heater that runs on diesel as well, but K1 works better. Diesel only seems to burn properly if the ambient temperature is already 50+ which kind of defeats the purpose of one of those heaters. After a minute or so of pumping out diesel smoke it settles down and burns nice and clean after that, but by that time I need to open the garage door - and then I get even colder! I'll probably try a diesel additive in that heater at some point since it really shouldn't need K1.
@knurlgnar24 I successfully unclogged a wick by heavily rolling a wine bottle across the carbon line with the wick laying on concrete. It took a little while, but the carbon started breaking up and falling out when agitated. I also give the carbon some impacts with the wine bottle using a softer banging motion. edit: Is toluene safe to clean wicks?
I can't think of much that wouldn't be safe to clean wicks aside from sulfuric acid or some other such substance. Any solvent that doesn't damage the wick fibers is fair game. Very interesting about the mechanical method using rolling. I honestly didn't try too hard before buying a new wick.
There's nothing wrong with this heater. It just happened that you used a diesel fuel without any mixture of alcohol 91%, that's the reason it won't gonna work properly (diesel is more thicker than Kerosene). Kerosene requirements for heater is K-1 rated. The wick that you replaced is still brand new. As long as you used proper fuel your wick will last up to 120 hours.
You've got to use an all cotton wick in order to use diesel, just don't ever use the red dyed diesel, or red kerosene for that matter. The dye will clog up wicks.
After removing the wingnuts, I can not get the wick holder assembly to come out. It will only come up less than half an inch. I’ve even gently tried a screwdriver on it. I’m at wits end.
usualy carbon makes it tough to pull up wiggle side to side and it still will take a lot of force if empty , use penetating oil on wick but be sure to clean all of it off before rewicking. also plastic razor remove carbon from center tub were the wick rides. I clean the tank befor I reasemble so I run it empty befor changing the wick.
The fiberglass wicks work better. They last one whole season. You will be lucky to get half a season out of that cotton wick. Otherwise you are giving good advice. -BAG2
I can only guess, but my first assumption is that you need to re-insert the wick adjustment gear in the holder so that it is in the fully down position when the knob is in the fully down position.
I tried cleaning mine and I don't remember exactly what solvents I used but it didn't work. I wouldn't be surprised if what you recommend does work - I expect soaking in a light solvent with a synthetic solvent like what comes in Techron would work. But at that point I might as well just buy another wick.
Regular Diesel (#2) will NOT work regardless of additives. I've seen that advice in multiple places and an curious where they are getting their diesel - perhaps in regions with a lot of fuel oil heat demand where #1 is more common? However #1 diesel should work in theory if you find a 'clean' source. At this point I wouldn't risk it and would stick to K1 for wicks and #1 Diesel for torpedo heaters.
Go to your local small airport and ask for some Jet A fuel. I've used it for years, and there is usually a few people waiting with their 5 gallon blue cans to get it for their heaters.
NO diesel.... use only K-1 kerosene in heaters and lamps... clean burn, no residue, and cheap enough. And skip all the useless hand gestures in the video. Stay on topic. Burn it outside AFTER the wick absorbs K-1 for 1/2 hour or so. Smells and soot are best kept outdoors as you adjust the wick height.... then take it indoors to warm rooms.
google Miles Stair's wick shop. Excellent place for high quality wicks and information. I have been using his wicks for many years now. high quality at very low prices.
He imports wicks from the UK. They're very high quality and they last a long time. I've always got at least two of his wicks in reserve for my heaters.
hes speaks with no emotion just matter of factly To be honest the way he makes certain comments and throws stuff around i was LMAO, and odd part is he wasnt trying to be funny I wonder if Knurly get that a lot? Ppl LOL at him when hes not trying to be funny?
Diesel is very similar to kerosene, just not as clean. My understanding is that you can use diesel when, and only when you use an ALL COTTON wick. I've used diesel in my circular wick kerosene lamps, and it works just fine. Try Mick Stairs Wick shop. You can find out all kinds of excellent information there about kerosene heaters and also kerosene lamps especially the good ones with the circular wicks. Seriously, check them out.
Peter Carlson Seriously, I'm considering trying this just out of interest. Now I want to know. :) Cotton wicks work just fine - I have an old perfection heater from the 1920's that does just fine with a 100% cotton wick. They burn down over time and don't last as long but that isn't really the concern in this case.
Peter Carlson That's a good point. I never thought of it that way before. I would probably have to disable the ratchet mechanism in my dyna-glo to allow full adjustment like other 100% cotton heaters but that would be relatively trivial. The old perfection500 doesn't really perform that well since it needs constant adjusting to keep the flame right as the reservoir level drops so I don't like using that one indoors.
Nope. Never ever ever use gasoline. When it lights it will light on fire, expand and light YOU on fire giving third degree burns. I know someone as a kid that happened to! They accidentally poured gasoline in a kerosene lamp I believe. Once the match hit it, it caught them on fire. They ended up in the hospital for a while.
Watched this and a couple others like it and "NOPE".. went and bought a new one lol. Oh HINT if you get the little bottle of liquid to help with smoke, don't get the pint scented one... ARGH.
You may want to take the kerosene heater you have there and hall it either to the dump or the junk yard, IT USES THE FIBERGLASS WICK and diesel will clog it up. I am using 4 perfection (FLAME SPREDDER TYPE) and a FANCO and they have no issues burning RED DYE DIESEL FUEL You must be using a 100% cotton wick for DIESEL to work right. COTTON can tolerate the DIESEL ALOT BETTER then fiberglass. Just a pointer, I have one just like you, but its resting not being used. JUNK WORTHLESS. FIBERGLASS CRAP!!!
I'm not sure how that's any worse than firing it up on a wood floor or carpet as it is intended to be used. Yes, there is some danger as there is in everything.
Calling out all ? 3 or so guys who did these vids, showing wick replacements on the dura heat/dyna glow type heaters. Each one of you edited out the hardest, most confounding parts of replacing these dang wicks. Pulling off & putting back the ratchet/ gear stud into the slot. That's the hardest thing to do! Show everything please. We don't care if you had to struggle a bit, but at least we'd know what to expect!
I apologize for not showing the part you were interested in. I thought I showed all parts people might have had trouble with but I apparently missed something. I've been in your shoes many times and understand the frustration! It's been a long time and I don't remember exactly how that part assembles/disassembles.
NO SH!T!! arrrggggg. The dang thing came off pretty easy, but I'm playin' hell getting it back on.
This video shows the proper way to reassemble. th-cam.com/video/HBTY-KL5oRo/w-d-xo.html
This unit works very well th-cam.com/users/postUgkxl2o1MQU4aMgmFk_cMqer4nH2ptpDEM6h Considering the price I paid for this, I didn't have high expectations, but now after using it, I consider this is a well designed heater. Do be aware that doing the dry burn on the wick as recommended (or at least every two tanks) is absolutely necessary to avoid an unclean burn, fortunately it's easy enough to do. I'm burning dyed K1 kerosene and do a dry burn every two tanks and this is working great. This unit will heat a little over the 500 square feet that it is rated for depending on the temperature. On days it isn't bitter cold this heater will do a fair amount more. This makes an excellent emergency heat source, and also in my situation, it is a little more efficient than the electric heat in the teen temps and below.
Makes sense. More BTU is useful in a detached garage especially if you don't normally heat it. Cold concrete sucks heat out of the air spectacularly quickly.
This video is exactly an instructional video should be!
Straight forward, all the need to know covered without the typically added , useless content. The audio and video were clear and. Understandable. I gladly subscribed to what is now a trusted source of need to know when u need it. information.
Thanks for your time.
Thank you for this video. I was able to replace my wick in my heater. My only issue was getting the wick out and then putting it back. Other than that, it was simple. I have it running now and it's so warm.
Thank you for a very informative demmo. I have followed your instructions with an excellent outcome.
Fantastic tutorial video. I feel like a pro just by watching this. I'll be replacing the wick on my Kero world kw-11f tomorrow. Thanks!
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Yes thank u very much very understanding of how to replace a wick in the box kerosene heater I'm confident that i can do this myself love ur video blessings to u 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. I just sat down in my living room and changed my wick on the same heater, thanks to you! I sincerely appreciate it! -Carolyn in N.Carolina
Great video, helped me a ton. I have an old Keroheat c1100 which as far as I can tell is identical to this Dyna Glo. It takes the exact same wick too.
Glad it helped. Wicks tend to be interchangeable among numerous brands/models of heaters. This technology was perfected a century ago so there isn't much out there for proprietary patents to muck up the aftermarket replacement part industry.
Thanks K-24. Just what i needed to see. I got a couple of old K-heaters that need new wicks. The wood burner in my shop can't keep the place warm when its ( -2c ) windchill outside so its time to supplement a little . Great video , i learned enough to do the different brands i have !! Once again THANKS for the brain power . sailersteve .
Good heater. Thanks for the video.
One note; the wick is more adjustable than you show. The knob needs to be pulled in and out to ratchet the wick down and not shut it down completely. It is then fine adjustable a little from there.
Well done. Accurate, concise information with no presentation time wasted.
I have a similar kerosene heater Zibro Kamin R30C and I think you solved what i thought was a problem just by watching your video .I installed a new Wick and everything seems to be working fine But the flame adjusting knob only raises the Wick it doesnt go in reverse to lower the wick/flame, (as my older Corona kerosene does) so i thought i did something wrong reassembling the heater. I noticed your adjustment knob doesn't go in reverse either.(because of the ratcheting mechanism) wont allow the knob to be turned in the opposite direction.
Great job and instruction. Very helpful.......
Great video: clear and concise. I have a Sears 40202 heater with a 2 piece wick. Would you know of a 1 piece wick that would replace the Americam Wick AW40 2 piece? The heater is rated at 9300 BTU. Thank you!
Awesome job bro
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Best wick replacement I've seen
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
Great video! Thank you! How soon would you recommend performing a dry-burn after installing a new wick? I've been dreading this project for a while but your video is THE best I've seen on this subject. Thanks again!
No need to dry burn unless you have a problem. If a dry burn doesn't fix the issue then new fuel and/or a new wick is probably the solution. You'll likely go hundreds of hours or more without needing any maintenance if your fuel is decent quality.
@@knurlgnar24 Hey thanks! I changed the wick yesterday and thanks to you it went smoothly and easily. Today my heater is working perfectly. Getting the pinion lined up in the ratchet mechanism was a little tricky but eventually it clicked into place and was fine. My understanding (per the manual) is that these combination cotton/fiberglass wicks need to be broken in by dryburning after the first initial 5 or 6 uses to insure long life. Who knows. I've been buying clear kerosene at the pump (locally) for over 15 years and have never had a problem ($5.49/gal as of yesterday). When compared to big-box retailers (including Amazon) charging anywhere from $15/20 gallon and the relatively low cost of a wick replacement, I'll take my chances now that I am comfortable with the procedure (again, THANK YOU). I use my heater almost every day and those insane prices just are not sustainable. Even if I end up changing the wick once a month I'm still ahead $$$ after a single day's use. Best wishes for an especially nice Holiday Season my friend!
awesome video! thank you 😊
I can't get the wick harness off, it seems like it's stuck, I tried pulling on it, twisting it back and forth, but nothing works, do you have any suggestions, I appreciate your video...Thx
Not that this matters-7 years later, but disassembly instructions are (or should be) included in the owners manual. They are in the manual for my Sengoku CTN-110. Just FYI for anyone who doesn’t want to just “wing it”.
Not saying you were just winging it. I assume you read the manual before making the video.
Thanks for the comment. I agree - always read the instruction manual first. Unfortunately they only make them for liability limitation purposes anymore and useful information is scarce in them to protect their legal butts.
I need to do this to mine but its over 25 years old and sadly the wick for it they don't make since it was from Japan.
That was very helpful. Thank you
I bought a dyna-glow brand at walmart for $10 and it even came with a new igniter.
My heater is a kerosun radiant 36 brand and model. This fit perfectly and I think even the igniter is going to fit, I haven't tried it yet. I trimmed the old one and put it away I'm pretty sure I can still use it after trimming the bad stuff off. I also cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and a cotton shirt.
I need to take my new one out and reinstall it I've got it too high. I can adjust it to where it burns just fine but it won't go down low enough to extinguish it and the proper use adjustment has it turned almost all the way down so it's installed way too high. You can tell that these things are made long enough that you can trim them without it ending up too short.
How was the quality on this one you got?
By the way 6/16 of an inch is 3/8.
L
Very good info and well explained! Thanks
You should be able to clean that top area of the old wick. Letting the heater run dry helps to remove deposits. Comb the wick with a small wire type brush. Where did you get your wicks at? I cannot buy them anywhere in my city.
I did clean the wick mechanically and it didn't work for me. I also tried dry burning them. Perhaps something like acetone might have worked - I don't know. I ended up buying new ones from Lowes. Online retailers sell them too.
I noticed you're video stopped and started where the assembly struggles to come off?
In my city I cannot find a wick for my heater, where can I get one? Online?
lehmans.com is a good site for harder to find antique wicks, but for an ordinary kerosene heater made in the last 50 years a site like amazon should carry what you're looking for, though you may need to do a little research on exactly what model wick you need.
Hi guys, as it seems that I’m not the only one having problems putting the wick back to its place, after being successful I wrote to myself how to do it. I’m sorry as I’m Spanish I did in Spanish, I hope you can translate it and it works to you:
Después de colocar la nueva mecha, con el émbolo de seguridad (el que hace que la estufa se apague automáticamente) en posición de reposo, girar el botón a la derecha al máximo, asegurándose que los engranajes enganchan hasta el final. Para ello el eje no debe estar enganchado al mecanismo que hace subir la mecha, pero es posible que necesite tocarla, aunque sea por la parte exterior. A continuación, asegurándose con la mano izquierda que el émbolo de seguridad no se activa (se cae a un lado), enganchar el eje con el soporte que sube la mecha, colocar en la base de la estufa y poner una palometa (o aguantar con la mano hacia abajo). Comprobar varias veces que la mecha sube hasta arriba y que se engancha en el engranaje (suena cada vez que pasa al siguiente eslabón) y a continuación tocando el botón de apagado la mecha debe desaparecer completamente. Repetir este paso al menos 5 veces y si no falla montar la estufa de nuevo
Thank You 👩🔧👍👍👍
Good job thanks for sharing
Hey knurlgnar24 - If you get one that is loaded with tar like that you can take it outside and let it burn dry till it goes all the way out, then let it sit for a half hour or so and lite it and let it burn dry again. It will burn a lot of that tar/carbon off of the fiberglass. I have brought back several wicks that way.
***** I tried dry burning it twice and it didn't seem to make much difference. I then tried high (relatively high) concentrations of alcohol mixed with clean kerosene and while it burned reasonably well on the kero/alcohol mix it went back to its smelly self when using only kero. I wonder if this particular heater isn't designed to allow the wick to up high enough to adequately dry burn it? I considered adjusting the wick so it would go up a little higher and potentially dry burn better but in the end it's a $10 wick and if I'm going through that bother I thought I might as well replace it. Would be nice to know if it works though.
***** BTW, the tar burned off of the wick portion that is exposed, but that's only 8mm on this heater.
Hey, I think it was you that had a video on running kerosene wick style heaters on straight diesel. If so, could you comment on what kind of diesel you use (D1, D2, etc) and the diesel additive you use? Have you tried running them without the additive and were your symptoms similar to mine?
*****
No it wasn't me, I haven't ever ran mine on diesel. I have see a lot of garages and stuff that will run the salamanders on diesel. I run mine on pump K1
*****
OK, thanks. Must have been someone else. I have a salamander style heater that runs on diesel as well, but K1 works better. Diesel only seems to burn properly if the ambient temperature is already 50+ which kind of defeats the purpose of one of those heaters. After a minute or so of pumping out diesel smoke it settles down and burns nice and clean after that, but by that time I need to open the garage door - and then I get even colder! I'll probably try a diesel additive in that heater at some point since it really shouldn't need K1.
your video was great ty
@knurlgnar24 I successfully unclogged a wick by heavily rolling a wine bottle across the carbon line with the wick laying on concrete. It took a little while, but the carbon started breaking up and falling out when agitated. I also give the carbon some impacts with the wine bottle using a softer banging motion.
edit: Is toluene safe to clean wicks?
I can't think of much that wouldn't be safe to clean wicks aside from sulfuric acid or some other such substance. Any solvent that doesn't damage the wick fibers is fair game. Very interesting about the mechanical method using rolling. I honestly didn't try too hard before buying a new wick.
There's nothing wrong with this heater. It just happened that you used a diesel fuel without any mixture of alcohol 91%, that's the reason it won't gonna work properly (diesel is more thicker than Kerosene). Kerosene requirements for heater is K-1 rated. The wick that you replaced is still brand new. As long as you used proper fuel your wick will last up to 120 hours.
You've got to use an all cotton wick in order to use diesel, just don't ever use the red dyed diesel, or red kerosene for that matter. The dye will clog up wicks.
...good video!!
thank you!
After removing the wingnuts, I can not get the wick holder assembly to come out. It will only come up less than half an inch. I’ve even gently tried a screwdriver on it. I’m at wits end.
usualy carbon makes it tough to pull up wiggle side to side and it still will take a lot of force if empty , use penetating oil on wick but be sure to clean all of it off before rewicking. also plastic razor remove carbon from center tub were the wick rides. I clean the tank befor I reasemble so I run it empty befor changing the wick.
@knurlgnar24 do u know if you cane get a new knob mechanism mine broke so I can't turn mine off or adjust the wick.... so frustrating
I buy lots parts off ebay or google ur heater for parts or call manufacter of unit
The fiberglass wicks work better. They last one whole season. You will be lucky to get half a season out of that cotton wick. Otherwise you are giving good advice. -BAG2
They are both fiberglass wicks
I've had fiberglass wicks that lasted for more than 2 seasons. Burn it down every 20-30 gallons... or when it takes longer to light.
الاجانب يعلمون الناس بكل اريحيه
والعربي يتحفظ على عمله من مبدأ سر المهنه!!!
Mine wont raise up like it used to. Idk if Im just not getting the gear in right or what. But its pissing me off.
I can only guess, but my first assumption is that you need to re-insert the wick adjustment gear in the holder so that it is in the fully down position when the knob is in the fully down position.
I seen someone clean a wick with carb cleaner.. maybe soak in berrymans??
I tried cleaning mine and I don't remember exactly what solvents I used but it didn't work. I wouldn't be surprised if what you recommend does work - I expect soaking in a light solvent with a synthetic solvent like what comes in Techron would work. But at that point I might as well just buy another wick.
Someone else says if you want to use diesel use a 100 percent cotton wick.. use diesel cleaner additives and or add %90 isopropyl alcohol .
Regular Diesel (#2) will NOT work regardless of additives. I've seen that advice in multiple places and an curious where they are getting their diesel - perhaps in regions with a lot of fuel oil heat demand where #1 is more common? However #1 diesel should work in theory if you find a 'clean' source. At this point I wouldn't risk it and would stick to K1 for wicks and #1 Diesel for torpedo heaters.
@@knurlgnar24 yeah the ppl i seen said never use #2 only use #1 diesel. oh yeah i mentioned only use diesel with a full cotton wick.
Cool
You skipped over the one part I came to see and that's putting the mechanics back on so that the adjuster works properly.
They say if you are going to use Diesel you have to use a Cotton Wick so it doesn't clog up like a Polyester will.
Go to your local small airport and ask for some Jet A fuel. I've used it for years, and there is usually a few people waiting with their 5 gallon blue cans to get it for their heaters.
Never heard of useing jet fuel It kerosene heater how well does it work is jet fuel cheaper
I work on aircraft refueling trucks. I have more jet a than I know what to do with
Watch this shorter wick replacement video with more detail! >>>> th-cam.com/video/h0aBhm9nIpE/w-d-xo.html
Completely different model and different wick
NO diesel.... use only K-1 kerosene in heaters and lamps... clean burn, no residue, and cheap enough. And skip all the useless hand gestures in the video. Stay on topic. Burn it outside AFTER the wick absorbs K-1 for 1/2 hour or so. Smells and soot are best kept outdoors as you adjust the wick height.... then take it indoors to warm rooms.
kje kupiti taht
google Miles Stair's wick shop. Excellent place for high quality wicks and information. I have been using his wicks for many years now. high quality at very low prices.
He imports wicks from the UK. They're very high quality and they last a long time. I've always got at least two of his wicks in reserve for my heaters.
Is it me or does this guy sound a bit like Frank Zappa😎
hes speaks with no emotion just matter of factly To be honest the way he makes certain comments and throws stuff around i was LMAO, and odd part is he wasnt trying to be funny I wonder if Knurly get that a lot? Ppl LOL at him when hes not trying to be funny?
Can you burn diesel with that new wick or does it have o be a cotton wick?
Its KEROSENE HEATER NOT DIESEL KERSOSENE IS CLEAR U BURN DIESEL IT BE A STINKING MESS
yes, but it will need replacing again if you do. Don't do it.
Diesel is very similar to kerosene, just not as clean.
My understanding is that you can use diesel when, and only when you use an ALL COTTON wick. I've used diesel in my circular wick kerosene lamps, and it works just fine.
Try Mick Stairs Wick shop. You can find out all kinds of excellent information there about kerosene heaters and also kerosene lamps especially the good ones with the circular wicks. Seriously, check them out.
We get our kerosine at the airport.
Very interesting. I hadn't considered that option.
THKS
LOOKING FOR A GOOD PURE SINE WAVE INVERTER FOR MY C-PAP
Check if it can be powered direct on DC. The last couple generations of the resmed cpaps can, effecincy is better than adding an inverter
COOL THKS
Can you review the engergizer 500 watt inverter
I'll keep that in mind if I run across one.
Ok thank you
The reason i asked is because people are saying that it caches on fire.
Ps when will your next video be.
Joel Bell
Possibly tonight if I get around to it. ;)
But it won't be an inverter video...
Fire you say? That sounds interesting.
It's a dang 10$ wick man... is it really worth your time to spend refurbishing? Lol...
Peter Carlson It's good to know what can be done if you're stuck in a situation where you don't have a replacement but need the heater.
Peter Carlson
lol! I bet it would for a little while! hmm.. I actually save my old socks for use as oil rags and it makes me want to try it...
Peter Carlson
Seriously, I'm considering trying this just out of interest. Now I want to know. :) Cotton wicks work just fine - I have an old perfection heater from the 1920's that does just fine with a 100% cotton wick. They burn down over time and don't last as long but that isn't really the concern in this case.
***** probably would handle the diesel better as its self consuming
Peter Carlson
That's a good point. I never thought of it that way before. I would probably have to disable the ratchet mechanism in my dyna-glo to allow full adjustment like other 100% cotton heaters but that would be relatively trivial. The old perfection500 doesn't really perform that well since it needs constant adjusting to keep the flame right as the reservoir level drops so I don't like using that one indoors.
video starts around 5:00 ffs
Coooooooood
Can you use E 85 Ethanol as fuel??
No Hell No Bud ITS KEROSENE HEATER U BLOW YOUR ASS UP BROTHER U USE E85
@@jefffloyd3480 i think your too late lol
@@tilberry19 maybe im wrong Maybe u can use e85
Nope. Never ever ever use gasoline. When it lights it will light on fire, expand and light YOU on fire giving third degree burns. I know someone as a kid that happened to! They accidentally poured gasoline in a kerosene lamp I believe. Once the match hit it, it caught them on fire. They ended up in the hospital for a while.
Ha-ha-ha-ha-ha, I'm better fit in seconds
hye man do not make your speech very long 😅😂
Watched this and a couple others like it and "NOPE".. went and bought a new one lol. Oh HINT if you get the little bottle of liquid to help with smoke, don't get the pint scented one... ARGH.
1st!!
You may want to take the kerosene heater you have there and hall it either to the dump or the junk yard, IT USES THE FIBERGLASS WICK and diesel will clog it up. I am using 4 perfection (FLAME SPREDDER TYPE) and a FANCO and they have no issues burning RED DYE DIESEL FUEL You must be using a 100% cotton wick for DIESEL to work right. COTTON can tolerate the DIESEL ALOT BETTER then fiberglass. Just a pointer, I have one just like you, but its resting not being used. JUNK WORTHLESS. FIBERGLASS CRAP!!!
Firing that thing up on a cardboard box. This after burning diesel fuel. Think you’d know better or you enjoy living dangerously.
I'm not sure how that's any worse than firing it up on a wood floor or carpet as it is intended to be used. Yes, there is some danger as there is in everything.
hye man do not make your speech very long 😅😂