Very good video and research. This has been an age old problem with turnouts and switches. I personally discovered this back in 1982 with my old Tyco trains on my old 4x8 layout expander. And I found out the same as you did. 1) I took my mother's finger nail filer, cut sliced it and filed my Tyco,Atlas and even Bachmann Switches. That fixed 80% of the problem. 2) On the difficult cars, (this is the laughable part) the difficult cars, I took a few rocks from my mom and dad's driveway and this Fixed along with the filing 100% of issues. Now fast forward 45 years to today, I am building another layout with my 7 yr old son and the Switch STILL derail cars of today. So! I remembered my old tricks and just like you in this video, I filed down the Switch rail. Next we took out the old Tyco cars from 1982 WITH THE SAME ROCKS STILL SEALED SHUT 45 Years ago and They Worked! My 7yr old asked me. Dad, did you get permission to steal Grandpas Rocks to stop the Derailments 45 years ago! ... Lol, anyway, From your video, I see it's still the same issues on turnouts. Great Video! Brought back memories.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Yes it was a very frustrating time- all I wanted to do was run trains. Luckily the fix, once known, is pretty cheap and quick! Great story, glad the family enjoys trains too.
You're doing everything correctly. Those are all good things to do. Sometimes the wheels will "pick" the switch points. A small amount of filing, like you did, usually does the trick. The NMRA recommends that a 6" long car should weigh 4 ounces. Ditch the truck mounted couplers when you can afford to. They tend to skew when pushed. Most of all HAVE FUN!
Hello, Glad I found your video. I too am having the same problems with the Bachmann switches. Now I will get those small files and do what you did and hope that corrects the problems with the small Steam Engines and some of the rolling stock.
Good move with the metal wheels! Some brands of rolling stock don't take metal wheels. They also have couplers attached to the wheels. These must be changed to Kadee couplers. The NMRA has a chart with the proper weight for each piece of rolling stock. You can also purchase weights in 1/4 ounce pieces that you can glue to the inside of your cars. You can get the NMRA standards online. These moves will greatly increase your performance. Good luck!
I had to file a turnout last night. The front wheel of my engine was riding over the point rail. I filed the corner of it at about a 45 degree angle about as many times in your video. It narrowed up that edge as it looked fairly blunt before.
First time watching this video & channel just subscribed. I like your trains & your layout I like the wood grain as well. My repairs on certain quality of train models my tips are : lead weights with adhesives they have 2 types of thicknesses. The second is mending plates you can get them at Home centers you could use many glues or epoxy to the metals, you mount inside your model train cars They come in all shapes & sizes. You can also stack em so they can be up to your standards. As for your tender it's obviously clumsy try the two methods on your unit it will run better & you already gave it a head start with metal wheels in addition your tender will run better than new! 👍✅
So many new railroaders experience these problems. My advice to any person interested in starting a model railroad is first lay in a healthy supply of patience! You can't get good results immediately without knowing some basic introductory information about these models. Next, do some research and buy a few introductory level books. Kalmbach Publishing has a number of books, both with general information and scale specific, mostly HO and N scale. Look for a book that talks about laying track, weighting railcars, and adjusting or tweeking turn-outs (switch tracks.) If a person were to do this, they WONT have to "re-invent the wheel" like you demonstrate in this video. Be patient, have fun, learn much!
I had to do a lot of tweaking to my Bachman turnouts. The points, frogs and the wire switching mechanics underneath and I finally have no problems with any of them
If the derailments were occurring at the switch, the switch was the issue. I had a brand new Bachmann switch that was terrible. I had to file one of the points and bend it a little and it finally worked.
Haven't ran trains since I was a small kid in the early 90's. Been wanting to get back in for a while now and I just bought a 4x8 layout online using EZ track and it's got 8 DCC-controlled switches. Hoping not to run into derailment problems once it shows up, but I am preparing myself for them as it seems to be a common problem in the hobby when you start putting trains into sides and so on. Read about the filing fix on a forum and am glad I found your video showing how it's done - thanks for sharing! I have read all kinds of differing opinions on manufacturers as well. Some people swear by Atlas and balk at Bachmann's offerings, but there are others who swear by EZ track. We'll see how it goes. How are things going now? Your most recent video showed you had gotten past the switching issues and you were able to run two trains simultaneously. Are you still building? Would love to see more!
you kinda gave me an idea of why my cars where detaching from the train.., i thought the trucks were not the right height but when you show the steel wheels instead of plastic being of different size so i'm gonna try different size wheels.., probably some steel one..,i've been replacing old Tyco connectors with mark2 couplers. -TROY
HI, I HAVE A N SCALE BACKMANN E-Z TRACK, I put 4 switch on my layout, and hate every bit of it. I have rebuilt the lay out without any switches . I have made, am making a switching yard layout with 4 switch track, my main layout is 12'x 2' , switch layout is 5'x2'
the gap is to wide between the rail an the plastic rail that is to hold the wheels against the metal rail ,to fix the problem you need to make a small shims on the plastic rail ,theirs a video that a guy did that solves the problem.
If you're using Bachmann switching machines, the red power cable can attach directly to your transformer. Make sure it's attached to the AC side instead of the DC side.
@@ehoover4156 now I’m having a issue with my track I have completed my layout also have inclines on my track and I connected everything and now the track makes a loud chirping sound and then after 5mins I loose all power on the track.What would that mean could I need another rerailer somewhere on the track please help thanks you
I know it's a few years since this was posted but I've used Flex track too ..however I decided to build a second layout that I could use elsewhere and bought a Bachmann Track Pack . The layout was called the Madison Central ...It's a fun layout and would just about fit on a table like this . It was designed by the guys at Model Railroader Magazine and it allows an easy build with Bachmann EZ Track and switches . Everything for the track comes with it ...I use it nearly as much as my main layout .This is the layout (not mine though) that you build with the Bachmann Track Pack ..33 pieces of track and four turnouts and other accessories in the box and a great instructional DVD too..There is the nickel silver or alloy track to choose from . Get the nickel silver one if at all possible..th-cam.com/video/laWlse6pMVQ/w-d-xo.html ...Cheers ..
That engine was from my first Bachmann starter set from many years ago. The rubber on the drive wheels has degraded, and the engine will spin with the metal-on-metal contact. However, it still runs great, and I do plan on seeing what I can do to get it fixed.
I don't think I ever showed it in another video. But, it's very similar to what I did here. I used the 150 grit file with a little bit of pressure, and did about 2 dozen repetitions. My new layout (shown in my other videos) has 6 turnouts that have been working well ever since I filed them down slightly. I do have one problem with a 2-6-2 locomotive, which I've only been successful with running as a 0-6-2. I think I talk about that in one of my later videos. But, the loco was also a gift from someone cleaning out their basement, so I'm not going to complain.
+E Hoover I just filed a few of mine tonight. I'm just not 100% sure how you are filing. I know one I did ilI noticed that the point hardly touches the main rail filing made it worse. I had to bend the point a little. i did some test running on them and one is still derailing so I filed a lttle more. really hard ti file them with the point connectors in the way. And I have really small files. thanks for posting.
I think Bachmann switches are not made well I think it is best to use Atlas. I have 7 Bachmann switches and have had nothing but trouble. You should not have to invest time and money trying to fix something that was made poorly.
I'll gladly take your Bachmann turnouts off your hands for a reasonable price if you're still unhappy with them. I'm happy with them for the base an ease of set up. Are yours DCC nickel with Gray base
Interestingly, would you believe that when I also modified a few old Tyco cars with Kadee couplers and trucks away from the Hook and Horn couplers, The derailments also stopped!
I want you to know that your video is still extremely helpful almost 10 years later!
Very good video and research. This has been an age old problem with turnouts and switches. I personally discovered this back in 1982 with my old Tyco trains on my old 4x8 layout expander. And I found out the same as you did.
1) I took my mother's finger nail filer, cut sliced it and filed my Tyco,Atlas and even Bachmann Switches. That fixed 80% of the problem. 2) On the difficult cars, (this is the laughable part) the difficult cars, I took a few rocks from my mom and dad's driveway and this Fixed along with the filing 100% of issues. Now fast forward 45 years to today, I am building another layout with my 7 yr old son and the Switch STILL derail cars of today. So! I remembered my old tricks and just like you in this video, I filed down the Switch rail. Next we took out the old Tyco cars from 1982 WITH THE SAME ROCKS STILL SEALED SHUT 45 Years ago and They Worked! My 7yr old asked me. Dad, did you get permission to steal Grandpas Rocks to stop the Derailments 45 years ago! ... Lol, anyway, From your video, I see it's still the same issues on turnouts. Great Video! Brought back memories.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Yes it was a very frustrating time- all I wanted to do was run trains. Luckily the fix, once known, is pretty cheap and quick!
Great story, glad the family enjoys trains too.
TY, just getting ready to start. Going with DCC. May as well. Love the sound.
You're doing everything correctly. Those are all good things to do. Sometimes the wheels will "pick" the switch points. A small amount of filing, like you did, usually does the trick. The NMRA recommends that a 6" long car should weigh 4 ounces. Ditch the truck mounted couplers when you can afford to. They tend to skew when pushed. Most of all HAVE FUN!
Hello, Glad I found your video. I too am having the same problems with the Bachmann switches. Now I will get those small files and do what you did and hope that corrects the problems with the small Steam Engines and some of the rolling stock.
Good move with the metal wheels! Some brands of rolling stock don't take metal wheels. They also have couplers attached to the wheels. These must be changed to Kadee couplers. The NMRA has a chart with the proper weight for each piece of rolling stock. You can also purchase weights in 1/4 ounce pieces that you can glue to the inside of your cars. You can get the NMRA standards online. These moves will greatly increase your performance. Good luck!
I had to file a turnout last night. The front wheel of my engine was riding over the point rail. I filed the corner of it at about a 45 degree angle about as many times in your video. It narrowed up that edge as it looked fairly blunt before.
First time watching this video & channel just subscribed. I like your trains & your layout I like the wood grain as well. My repairs on certain quality of train models my tips are : lead weights with adhesives they have 2 types of thicknesses. The second is mending plates you can get them at Home centers you could use many glues or epoxy to the metals, you mount inside your model train cars They come in all shapes & sizes. You can also stack em so they can be up to your standards. As for your tender it's obviously clumsy try the two methods on your unit it will run better & you already gave it a head start with metal wheels in addition your tender will run better than new! 👍✅
So many new railroaders experience these problems. My advice to any person interested in starting a model railroad is first lay in a healthy supply of patience! You can't get good results immediately without knowing some basic introductory information about these models. Next, do some research and buy a few introductory level books. Kalmbach Publishing has a number of books, both with general information and scale specific, mostly HO and N scale. Look for a book that talks about laying track, weighting railcars, and adjusting or tweeking turn-outs (switch tracks.) If a person were to do this, they WONT have to "re-invent the wheel" like you demonstrate in this video. Be patient, have fun, learn much!
I hope you would agree that this *shouldn't* be normal. Bachmann is producing unacceptably low-quality turnouts, especially given how much they cost.
I had to do a lot of tweaking to my Bachman turnouts.
The points, frogs and the wire switching mechanics underneath and I finally have no problems with any of them
If the derailments were occurring at the switch, the switch was the issue. I had a brand new Bachmann switch that was terrible. I had to file one of the points and bend it a little and it finally worked.
Haven't ran trains since I was a small kid in the early 90's. Been wanting to get back in for a while now and I just bought a 4x8 layout online using EZ track and it's got 8 DCC-controlled switches. Hoping not to run into derailment problems once it shows up, but I am preparing myself for them as it seems to be a common problem in the hobby when you start putting trains into sides and so on. Read about the filing fix on a forum and am glad I found your video showing how it's done - thanks for sharing! I have read all kinds of differing opinions on manufacturers as well. Some people swear by Atlas and balk at Bachmann's offerings, but there are others who swear by EZ track. We'll see how it goes.
How are things going now? Your most recent video showed you had gotten past the switching issues and you were able to run two trains simultaneously. Are you still building? Would love to see more!
Fantastic turnout and file tip thank you!
you kinda gave me an idea of why my cars where detaching from the train.., i thought the trucks were not the right height but when you show the steel wheels instead of plastic being of different size so i'm gonna try different size wheels.., probably some steel one..,i've been replacing old Tyco connectors with mark2 couplers. -TROY
On my Bachmann turnouts, I had to replace the switch spring underneath, as well as filing the points
Wow for that size layout I would have made my benchwork much stronger......
I heard the springs under the turnouts are weak, and replacing them was better than filing the points, but you can do whatever you want idk
HI, I HAVE A N SCALE BACKMANN E-Z TRACK, I put 4 switch on my layout, and hate every bit of it. I have rebuilt the lay out without any switches . I have made, am making a switching yard layout with 4 switch track, my main layout is 12'x 2' , switch layout is 5'x2'
Has anyone contacted Buchmann to have then to fix the problem of turn out derailment?
What has been bachmann response?
Good Work With The Video.
Hey I know that sound. I put coins in my boxcar rolling stock too
How to run Bachmann ez track turnouts all from one area?
the gap is to wide between the rail an the plastic rail that is to hold the wheels against the metal rail ,to fix the problem you need to make a small shims on the plastic rail ,theirs a video that a guy did that solves the problem.
Got a link to that?
try adding weight inside the lightweight pieces of roiling stock
How or where do I hook the remote turn out switch? Do I connect it to my transformer? Do I need a second transformer? Thanks
If you're using Bachmann switching machines, the red power cable can attach directly to your transformer. Make sure it's attached to the AC side instead of the DC side.
Can I connect this turnout to the rerailer on one side and on the other side have it be connected to the Bachmann DCC controller or no
Should be able to. I've personally never wired dcc though
@@ehoover4156 ok and thanks you
@@ehoover4156 now I’m having a issue with my track I have completed my layout also have inclines on my track and I connected everything and now the track makes a loud chirping sound and then after 5mins I loose all power on the track.What would that mean could I need another rerailer somewhere on the track please help thanks you
@@ehoover4156 also I have done this on my turnout and it has really helped a lot and I’ve subscribed to your channel
Yes you can.
I know it's a few years since this was posted but I've used Flex track too ..however I decided to build a second layout that I could use elsewhere and bought a Bachmann Track Pack . The layout was called the Madison Central ...It's a fun layout and would just about fit on a table like this . It was designed by the guys at Model Railroader Magazine and it allows an easy build with Bachmann EZ Track and switches . Everything for the track comes with it ...I use it nearly as much as my main layout .This is the layout (not mine though) that you build with the Bachmann Track Pack ..33 pieces of track and four turnouts and other accessories in the box and a great instructional DVD too..There is the nickel silver or alloy track to choose from . Get the nickel silver one if at all possible..th-cam.com/video/laWlse6pMVQ/w-d-xo.html ...Cheers ..
i'm interested in that F-7 Chessie engine you have there siting .., -Troy
That engine was from my first Bachmann starter set from many years ago. The rubber on the drive wheels has degraded, and the engine will spin with the metal-on-metal contact. However, it still runs great, and I do plan on seeing what I can do to get it fixed.
Yeah mine don't work, but the light comes on ..plan on fixing also once my track is finalized. It's mothballed Right now(for looks only) lol..
did you ever do the how to video? I have 10 swiches and all cause derailing and I'd like to see how you filed the points.
I don't think I ever showed it in another video. But, it's very similar to what I did here. I used the 150 grit file with a little bit of pressure, and did about 2 dozen repetitions. My new layout (shown in my other videos) has 6 turnouts that have been working well ever since I filed them down slightly.
I do have one problem with a 2-6-2 locomotive, which I've only been successful with running as a 0-6-2. I think I talk about that in one of my later videos. But, the loco was also a gift from someone cleaning out their basement, so I'm not going to complain.
+E Hoover I just filed a few of mine tonight. I'm just not 100% sure how you are filing. I know one I did ilI noticed that the point hardly touches the main rail filing made it worse. I had to bend the point a little. i did some test running on them and one is still derailing so I filed a lttle more. really hard ti file them with the point connectors in the way. And I have really small files. thanks for posting.
I was filing the inner edges of each point rail. I did bend one rail slightly. it seemed to help a bit.
+E Hoover well wish me luck.. still got about 6 to do...
Look up talking track an turnout maintenance part 1
I think Bachmann switches are not made well I think it is best to use Atlas. I have 7 Bachmann switches and have had nothing but trouble. You should not have to invest time and money trying to fix something that was made poorly.
I'll gladly take your Bachmann turnouts off your hands for a reasonable price if you're still unhappy with them. I'm happy with them for the base an ease of set up. Are yours DCC nickel with Gray base
Method to improve, NO MORE GETTING TYCO ;-;
Interestingly, would you believe that when I also modified a few old Tyco cars with Kadee couplers and trucks away from the Hook and Horn couplers, The derailments also stopped!
Just move on with the railroad and get new model trains
Z