I'm also working on a 24-volt system with 10 batteries putting them together in series as you did only I was told on the opposite side where you putting the positive and negative together for the two batteries the batteries that are posted that are in the center left to run to a buzz bar each one being five separate post going to the bus barn before you run them out will the batteries are not going to charge and discharge equally if you check that and find out that I was told differently one of us is setting them up differently and the batteries are not going to charge and discharge correctly let me know thank you
Good vid, nice job. I take it you have resolved the shunt placement issue by now and have discovered the true value and accuracy of ur Victron smart shunt. Cheers
Not only was my shunt in the wrong place but it was upside down. Hah. I didn't really under stand how it all worked until I looked at a lithium ion battery discharge curve. Makes a lot more sense now.
I felt like my videos were just the same rehash prepper crap that was already out there. I'm gonna keep making videos but only about practical stuff that one can do to further their lifestyle goals.
Great overview, thank you. For people that really want easy, consider using an all in one 48v charger controller inverter and higher capacity 48v LPO4 batteries... the 48v will allow for higher input PV voltages with smaller gauge wires and use of high capacity 48v lithium iron phosphate batteries will allow for fewer batteries and simpler wiring... also will have better operational temperature range and remove the need for heating and insulation in most cases
Hi Ben I just found your channel as a TH-cam suggested video and I think you did a great job explaining all the components. There are however a few problems with your termination points for the shunt, batteries and your grounding that will create some problems with accuracy with your BMV712 and possible shock hazards due to your grounding. They are all easily rectified issues and won't cost you anything to rectify. However as I said you do have the potential for hazardous voltages on your system that need sorting. I am an ex Navy electrical engineer with 30+ years of experience with high and low current DC and AC systems. I love seeing someone of your age who I can see has a love of electronics and a bright future ahead of you. You are a smart guy I think as you demonstrated a great base knowledge of your equipment. I am not knocking your instalation, in fact I think you have done a great job. Your system just needs a few tweaks to make it a little safer and increase performance. If you want I will be happy to talk to you on WhatsApp or any other voip system to give you a hand. I have plenty of free time as I am bedbound after spinal surgeries that have gone wrong after an injury so I have plenty of spare time on my hands. Let me know if you want to talk direct as I am happy to help you out. All the best. Stuart
Hi. My name is Dan. I don't use any of those apps but I'm happy to hear what you have to say here. I'm an 06A electrician in WA state. What do you think the problems with my grounding are? I don't have my panels grounded on purpose if that's what you're referring to. And as far as the shunt, I only use it to monitor the voltage. I don't care that the shunt shows the wrong charge in terms of percentage because I don't believe it's accurate.
Nice job. I to have been setting up a Victron system in my big caravan I live in when it's not getting restored. I got some videos of it on TH-cam as well. Hows your system going for you now ?
Nice job on your system. I’m surprised that you get enough sun to charge your batteries in Washington, Do live in eastern side of Washington? Did you run the wires from the breaker box in the shed to the house underground?
I did run the wires underground. I'm in the cascades mountains. So it's a bit sunnier here than western WA. A bit drier too. But if you drive 45 east than it's way drier and sunnier.
When people have their whole house like covered in solar panels... how do they chain them together safely, when you have more panels than just 1 charge controller can handle? Is there a specific way they work this out?
Well you can run multiple charge controllers. Keep in mind as well, alot of houses in the suburbs with solar panels on them are using a small wattage like 100 or 150 watt panels. So they may have 30 panels but the wattage is very low. A charge controller can handle a certain amount of wattage, and your battery bank can handle a certain amount of wattage. Additionally, people in the suburbs with solar panels generally dont have a battery bank. They are grid tied. So they aren't as limited.
the shunt needs to be installed prior to the negative terminal block. this way the system will see the charging current along with the draw current then you will see the true battery state of charge....
Oh thanks for telling me that. I had no idea. Another person made a comment about the shunt but didn't clarify. I've often felt like I'm not getting as much out of my batteries as I should. I'm gonna fix that problem tonight and see what the changes look like. Thanks again.
I live in Renton, Washington. Nice set up. I have pretty much the same thing, 24 V 3000/70. I have four charge controllers and they’re all Victron. I have eight Battle Born Batteries 9600 Wh. Use a Victron shunt. I have 24 solar panels for 7.7 kW. I replaced all my appliances with 120V. Got rid of my 240V oven, but kept the dryer and flip over to the grid when I need to dry clothes. I need to upgrade to 48 V for better efficiency and more power. I’ll probably get a 5000 instead of my 3000. Trying to learn about split phase.
That's rad. I'm running a propane dryer. It barely uses any power. My plan is to get another victron inverter and wire it in series with the one I have so I have 220v.
@@Hardcore-Homestead My thought was it would be a cleaner connection that would be less apt to create resistance. When I build mine I plan to give it a shot.
Absolutely not, ie; it does not help to tin heavy cables, there are a number of reasons not to solder most or any of ur cabling for this type of setup. I thought Ferrules were ok until recently, Victron actually specify not to use Ferrules on their cabling into their controllers. The Victron connecting system is designed to be able to use a fine cored wire cables slightly twisted and just pushed in nicely before you screw the connection down to it’s required torque value, they are designed to clamp the cables into their products correctly, & I am not giving Victron any special Plug here, you need the right cable & the right connections, lugs, ferrules, & the right crimping gear is important too, to make proper terminations. I like solder, but it has minimal to no place in a well built solar system, for many reasons. Check out Will Prowse’s DIY Solar channel, he has a lot of great info for beginners to professionals in all matters of solar.
You mention " 120 amp inverter " 5000 watts at 120 volts is 41.6 amps. The 24 I 5000 I 120 on the front of the inverter designates 24 volts , 5000 watts , 120 amp battery charger . One other thing I noticed is your wire / Breaker size. Your wire needs to be sized more than enough to carry the load and the breaker sized to protect the wire. If you have too large a breaker on a wire to protect it the wire becomes the fuse and will melt / cause fire. Nice equipment , I am a big fan of Victron gear .
Hi. Just so you know I'm an 06A electrician. All my wire size is sized according to the maximum amperage my system can produce, and all my breakers are 20% larger than they need to be (which is code).
Just as a heads up, at a power factor of 1.0 VA and W are the same. So if you have something like a resistive space heater it could pull 5KW on a 5KVA inverter. Additionally you have to be careful with the boost function, as these inverters can add 41A to whatever is coming in (like a genset) so it could well exceed a 50A output circuit. As for wire, please clarify that the breakers are sized to the wire current capacity and the wire AND breaker are sized for a contentious load not exceeding 80% the rated capacity (which is code) so 6/3NM rated for 55A could have a 60amp breaker on it (next size up rule) or a 50 amp breaker. But the max contentious load would be 42amps for that combination (80% of circuit rating) I’m also assuming we are talking about 60c and not 90c components here. My only other concern is just the metal strapping chafing the solar wires and not having a ground fault detection circuit on the panel to charge controller circuit.
@@DemonicAnimatronic I'm confused by your comment the same as I was confused by the original poster of this section. I don't understand what yall are getting at. I either misspoke in the video and need to go back and see what I said or there is some misunderstanding. From what I recall in the video I said my inverter is 120amp capacity and at my panel I have two 50 amp breakers that go to two separate subpanels. The wire from my inverter to my main panel is 4awg. The wire going from the 50amp breakers to the sub panels is 6awg. Well within the loads and well within code (not that I'm concerned with code). By trade I work in HVAC/R and have years of electrical experience, but not in this capacity. My job doesn't call for load calcs and things like that. My electrical lisence allows me to work on 3phase 460volt units and I am not permitted to work on anything at the panel or after. As far as the strapping it's no different than using staples that electricians use to secure 12/2 or 14/2 to studs in residential installs. As long as it's not too tight it won't be a problem. My install of this system is definitely not clean and looks like some farmer shit which I understand.
Aziz Ahmed Ansari (AAA) I am sure you have got a lot of comments for the simplicity and easy explanation, This has instigated me to contact you. I am thinking of putting a 5Kw 24v Solar generator in my basement. I live in Minnesota and thus thinking of a more efficient system, thinking of a battery bank of two 24v 250Ahr batteries, a 24 Volt Pure Sine Inverter Charger, 6000 Watt Low Frequency Inverter 110/220Vac Split Phase, 18000 Watt Surge, Battery Priority Selector, Terminal Block, GFCI. I have no clue what-so-ever about the size of the charge controller(s), solar panels/capacity and how many, fuses and other components. Can I request you to help me, let me re-phrase it, how would you do if you had to build a 5Kw, 24V system for yourself. Thanking you in anticipation.
Well if you want a 5kw system you'll need 5kw worth of solar panels. If I were you I'd just get twelve 400 watt solar panels, and two victron 150/100 charge controllers. You'd need a couple breaker boxes, some individual breakers for each set of panels that are in series together, and then a bigger breaker between the charge controller and the breaker boxes. Honestly the easiest way to go would be to talk to some at a company called backwoods solar in Idaho. Just tell them what you want to to and they'll tell you what you need. I'm not affiliated with them, I just like the company. They have excellent customer service.
I'm also working on a 24-volt system with 10 batteries putting them together in series as you did only I was told on the opposite side where you putting the positive and negative together for the two batteries the batteries that are posted that are in the center left to run to a buzz bar each one being five separate post going to the bus barn before you run them out will the batteries are not going to charge and discharge equally if you check that and find out that I was told differently one of us is setting them up differently and the batteries are not going to charge and discharge correctly let me know thank you
Great setup and channel name ❤
Good vid, nice job. I take it you have resolved the shunt placement issue by now and have discovered the true value and accuracy of ur Victron smart shunt. Cheers
Not only was my shunt in the wrong place but it was upside down. Hah. I didn't really under stand how it all worked until I looked at a lithium ion battery discharge curve. Makes a lot more sense now.
good system mate well done.
I was wondering where you went. Thanks for the info.
I felt like my videos were just the same rehash prepper crap that was already out there. I'm gonna keep making videos but only about practical stuff that one can do to further their lifestyle goals.
Great overview, thank you. For people that really want easy, consider using an all in one 48v charger controller inverter and higher capacity 48v LPO4 batteries... the 48v will allow for higher input PV voltages with smaller gauge wires and use of high capacity 48v lithium iron phosphate batteries will allow for fewer batteries and simpler wiring... also will have better operational temperature range and remove the need for heating and insulation in most cases
Yeah 48v and 220 would be ideal. I am running lithium ion phosphate batteries. 100 amp hrs each and I have 12 of them.
Hi Ben
I just found your channel as a TH-cam suggested video and I think you did a great job explaining all the components.
There are however a few problems with your termination points for the shunt, batteries and your grounding that will create some problems with accuracy with your BMV712 and possible shock hazards due to your grounding.
They are all easily rectified issues and won't cost you anything to rectify. However as I said you do have the potential for hazardous voltages on your system that need sorting.
I am an ex Navy electrical engineer with 30+ years of experience with high and low current DC and AC systems. I love seeing someone of your age who I can see has a love of electronics and a bright future ahead of you. You are a smart guy I think as you demonstrated a great base knowledge of your equipment.
I am not knocking your instalation, in fact I think you have done a great job. Your system just needs a few tweaks to make it a little safer and increase performance.
If you want I will be happy to talk to you on WhatsApp or any other voip system to give you a hand. I have plenty of free time as I am bedbound after spinal surgeries that have gone wrong after an injury so I have plenty of spare time on my hands.
Let me know if you want to talk direct as I am happy to help you out.
All the best.
Stuart
Hi. My name is Dan. I don't use any of those apps but I'm happy to hear what you have to say here. I'm an 06A electrician in WA state. What do you think the problems with my grounding are? I don't have my panels grounded on purpose if that's what you're referring to. And as far as the shunt, I only use it to monitor the voltage. I don't care that the shunt shows the wrong charge in terms of percentage because I don't believe it's accurate.
Nice job. I to have been setting up a Victron system in my big caravan I live in when it's not getting restored.
I got some videos of it on TH-cam as well.
Hows your system going for you now ?
Nice job on your system. I’m surprised that you get enough sun to charge your batteries in Washington, Do live in eastern side of Washington? Did you run the wires from the breaker box in the shed to the house underground?
I did run the wires underground. I'm in the cascades mountains. So it's a bit sunnier here than western WA. A bit drier too. But if you drive 45 east than it's way drier and sunnier.
nice system
Thanks Tony
Good job!
Thanks
Great explanation of a simple system. 👍😎✌️
Very nice system👍. You could invest a little more love in make it beautifull.
It's some farmer shit that's for sure!
When people have their whole house like covered in solar panels... how do they chain them together safely, when you have more panels than just 1 charge controller can handle? Is there a specific way they work this out?
Well you can run multiple charge controllers. Keep in mind as well, alot of houses in the suburbs with solar panels on them are using a small wattage like 100 or 150 watt panels. So they may have 30 panels but the wattage is very low. A charge controller can handle a certain amount of wattage, and your battery bank can handle a certain amount of wattage. Additionally, people in the suburbs with solar panels generally dont have a battery bank. They are grid tied. So they aren't as limited.
@@Hardcore-Homestead Thank you for the reply.
the shunt needs to be installed prior to the negative terminal block. this way the system will see the charging current along with the draw current then you will see the true battery state of charge....
Oh thanks for telling me that. I had no idea. Another person made a comment about the shunt but didn't clarify. I've often felt like I'm not getting as much out of my batteries as I should. I'm gonna fix that problem tonight and see what the changes look like. Thanks again.
Agreed
great system , i would cover the buss bars with plexiglass
Thanks. Why's that?
I live in Renton, Washington. Nice set up. I have pretty much the same thing, 24 V 3000/70. I have four charge controllers and they’re all Victron. I have eight Battle Born Batteries 9600 Wh. Use a Victron shunt. I have 24 solar panels for 7.7 kW.
I replaced all my appliances with 120V. Got rid of my 240V oven, but kept the dryer and flip over to the grid when I need to dry clothes.
I need to upgrade to 48 V for better efficiency and more power. I’ll probably get a 5000 instead of my 3000. Trying to learn about split phase.
That's rad. I'm running a propane dryer. It barely uses any power. My plan is to get another victron inverter and wire it in series with the one I have so I have 220v.
@@Hardcore-Homestead
I’ll be looking forward to the video.
mucho importante yes well said brother 4:40 😊
Let's go
Love ❤ 😍
Thanks
Does it help to tin the wires with solder before installing in the clamps?
I didn't do that but you certainly could. I just roll the wire in my fingers before I put it in. Works great.
@@Hardcore-Homestead My thought was it would be a cleaner connection that would be less apt to create resistance. When I build mine I plan to give it a shot.
@@michaeledge8905 attention to detail and taking the time to do it right the first time is a good way to do things.
Absolutely not, ie; it does not help to tin heavy cables, there are a number of reasons not to solder most or any of ur cabling for this type of setup. I thought Ferrules were ok until recently, Victron actually specify not to use Ferrules on their cabling into their controllers. The Victron connecting system is designed to be able to use a fine cored wire cables slightly twisted and just pushed in nicely before you screw the connection down to it’s required torque value, they are designed to clamp the cables into their products correctly, & I am not giving Victron any special Plug here, you need the right cable & the right connections, lugs, ferrules, & the right crimping gear is important too, to make proper terminations. I like solder, but it has minimal to no place in a well built solar system, for many reasons. Check out Will Prowse’s DIY Solar channel, he has a lot of great info for beginners to professionals in all matters of solar.
You mention " 120 amp inverter " 5000 watts at 120 volts is 41.6 amps. The 24 I 5000 I 120 on the front of the inverter designates 24 volts , 5000 watts , 120 amp battery charger . One other thing I noticed is your wire / Breaker size. Your wire needs to be sized more than enough to carry the load and the breaker sized to protect the wire. If you have too large a breaker on a wire to protect it the wire becomes the fuse and will melt / cause fire. Nice equipment , I am a big fan of Victron gear .
Hi. Just so you know I'm an 06A electrician. All my wire size is sized according to the maximum amperage my system can produce, and all my breakers are 20% larger than they need to be (which is code).
@@Hardcore-Homestead "Just so you know I'm an 06A electrician " ok. Explains it all . Good luck .
100% correct OnTheLake
Just as a heads up, at a power factor of 1.0 VA and W are the same. So if you have something like a resistive space heater it could pull 5KW on a 5KVA inverter. Additionally you have to be careful with the boost function, as these inverters can add 41A to whatever is coming in (like a genset) so it could well exceed a 50A output circuit. As for wire, please clarify that the breakers are sized to the wire current capacity and the wire AND breaker are sized for a contentious load not exceeding 80% the rated capacity (which is code) so 6/3NM rated for 55A could have a 60amp breaker on it (next size up rule) or a 50 amp breaker. But the max contentious load would be 42amps for that combination (80% of circuit rating) I’m also assuming we are talking about 60c and not 90c components here. My only other concern is just the metal strapping chafing the solar wires and not having a ground fault detection circuit on the panel to charge controller circuit.
@@DemonicAnimatronic I'm confused by your comment the same as I was confused by the original poster of this section. I don't understand what yall are getting at. I either misspoke in the video and need to go back and see what I said or there is some misunderstanding. From what I recall in the video I said my inverter is 120amp capacity and at my panel I have two 50 amp breakers that go to two separate subpanels. The wire from my inverter to my main panel is 4awg. The wire going from the 50amp breakers to the sub panels is 6awg. Well within the loads and well within code (not that I'm concerned with code). By trade I work in HVAC/R and have years of electrical experience, but not in this capacity. My job doesn't call for load calcs and things like that. My electrical lisence allows me to work on 3phase 460volt units and I am not permitted to work on anything at the panel or after. As far as the strapping it's no different than using staples that electricians use to secure 12/2 or 14/2 to studs in residential installs. As long as it's not too tight it won't be a problem. My install of this system is definitely not clean and looks like some farmer shit which I understand.
Can you give me the link to where you got the surge protector?
battlebornbatteries.com/product/current-surge-limiter/
👍
What size bus bars are you using?
Size as in lug size? Like how big the bolts are?
You got to much in ur battery's $20.000 for what u have is crazy man but good luck & God bless
What is the battery ? Led asid?
I'm running 12 100amp hour lithium ion batteries
👍👍
Thanks
I don't see where your panels are all grounded together where is the solid copper going to your panels and grounded at?🤔😱
I don't have them grounded
Rock on 👍
Nice video. However, you could have used a 48V system and save money on wiring and charge controllers. And it will be more efficient.
What batteries are you using?
These are battle born 12v 100 amp hour lithium ion batteries.
Aziz Ahmed Ansari (AAA) I am sure you have got a lot of comments for the simplicity and easy explanation, This has instigated me to contact you. I am thinking of putting a 5Kw 24v Solar generator in my basement. I live in Minnesota and thus thinking of a more efficient system, thinking of a battery bank of two 24v 250Ahr batteries, a 24 Volt Pure Sine Inverter Charger, 6000 Watt Low Frequency Inverter 110/220Vac Split Phase, 18000 Watt Surge, Battery Priority Selector, Terminal Block, GFCI. I have no clue what-so-ever about the size of the charge controller(s), solar panels/capacity and how many, fuses and other components. Can I request you to help me, let me re-phrase it, how would you do if you had to build a 5Kw, 24V system for yourself. Thanking you in anticipation.
Well if you want a 5kw system you'll need 5kw worth of solar panels. If I were you I'd just get twelve 400 watt solar panels, and two victron 150/100 charge controllers. You'd need a couple breaker boxes, some individual breakers for each set of panels that are in series together, and then a bigger breaker between the charge controller and the breaker boxes. Honestly the easiest way to go would be to talk to some at a company called backwoods solar in Idaho. Just tell them what you want to to and they'll tell you what you need. I'm not affiliated with them, I just like the company. They have excellent customer service.
It's complicated because everyone on here wires them differently..hell I've found 5 different ways on the internet..
Hmm. Pretty sure there is only one way to wire it lol