as you DIDN’T explain earlier that the oil filter cap was difficult to remove..bruh you glazed over that and we had to use some real bicep work to get that off! In the future, save people the trouble and don’t omit the hard parts! FYI to everyone doing this…that oil filter cap is a BEAST to get off!
That goes with any job. You could watch any kind of home improvement or DIY show on TV and they show how easy it is to demo a room for reconstruction. First swing of the sledge and you're wiped out. Just remember that with a big enough wrench, you could move mountains--or snap bolts clean off. It's part and parcel of the job.
I had a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6. I switched to Synthetic as this particular engine was known to develop oil sludge, especially if it wasn’t changed often enough. Toyota would cover any damage caused by sludge, provided you presented proof of the recommended service. I always serviced it regularly, but thought I’d play it safe using synthetic. I never had any sludge issues, but I did have oil pan gasket leaks a couple of times over the 14 years I had it with 180,000 miles. I then purchased a new 2016 XLE V6, these come with synthetic from the factory. The recommended change interval is every 10,000 miles, but I do it twice as often. I still prefer the 6 cylinder over the 4. Plenty of power without having to push it hard, and I still get 30 mpg on highway trips.
I used to have a 2002 LE with the oil burner 2AZ-FE engine. Ran for 10 years till the transmission grenaded itself with no warning. Replaced that, then a year later, the engine lost oil pressure and NEVER warned me. It so seems the sender unit had become lethargic, which I found out later, so the engine started clanking. I drove it for a while longer, then got the identical 07 to this car shown in the video, V6, the EXACT car. Gave the 2002 to my dad, he drove that for 5 more years before the clanking engine blew up. I then picked up, as a spare, a 2003 Camry LE with the 1MZ-FE V6 engine. 31,000 miles, driven by a little old lady. Price was right, mileage was low, a diamond in the rough. I will NEVER go back to a 4 cylinder. 6 all the way, so much smoother, runs so much nicer, barely has to rev up to do some damage, and great gas mileage to boot, what's not to love!
It's nice to know that there are still people who do it themselves. I could make a crap ton of money by working at an oil change place, helping those moms who drive BMWs.
Yep, I changed my own oil, since 1994, and never have to worry about filters tightened to 1,000 foot pounds of torque. Back when I changed gas pump filters, we used those white oil absorb rags, and they work fantastically.
I changed the the oil in my 1993 town car for the first time a while back. I plan to do a lot of servicing to it this year. I've done a coolant flush, power steering flush, oil change and fuel filter. The car is 28 years old and has 230k miles on it but I'm trying to make it last as long as possible so it's worth putting the work into and it saves quite a bit of money if you can do it yourself.
@@jaykay18 I'm well aware of this! It's kind of my project car but it's also one of my two daily drivers the other being a 2006 Tacoma. I don't mind putting the work into it to make it last. It's still cheaper than buying a new car and they don't make cars like that anymore. It's a Jack Nicklaus Special Edition and I only paid $500 for it so I don't mind putting some money into it. I'd hate to see I go to the scrap yard.
Proper torque specs... Oil filter cap = 25 N•m (18 ft.lbs.) Oil filter cap drainbolt = 12.5 N•m (9 ft.lbs.) Follow those specs and you should be able to remove the drainbolt from the oil filter cap without the whole thing coming off.
It's my friend's, I believe it's a 16 quart. More than plenty for the 6 and change quarts this engine takes. But much less messy than a traditional pan, worth every single penny.
We live in Connecticut there was a factory recall on them but it was a limited window to bring the car in to have it swapped out…i missed it by two weeks and they wouldn’t fix it was so mad…
@@matthewehmka7095 but hey! This beautiful well designed is still going strong with more than 200,000 miles… so thats a win in my book even with a sticky dashboard hahaha.
@@nl.515 When too much oil is added, the level in the oil pan becomes too high. That allows a fast-moving lobed rod called the crankshaft to come into contact with the oil and essentially aerate it. The result is a foamy, frothy substance that cannot properly lubricate the engine.
One of the best oil change videos I ever watched
Thank you.
as you DIDN’T explain earlier that the oil filter cap was difficult to remove..bruh you glazed over that and we had to use some real bicep work to get that off! In the future, save people the trouble and don’t omit the hard parts! FYI to everyone doing this…that oil filter cap is a BEAST to get off!
That goes with any job. You could watch any kind of home improvement or DIY show on TV and they show how easy it is to demo a room for reconstruction. First swing of the sledge and you're wiped out. Just remember that with a big enough wrench, you could move mountains--or snap bolts clean off. It's part and parcel of the job.
I had a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6. I switched to Synthetic as this particular engine was known to develop oil sludge, especially if it wasn’t changed often enough. Toyota would cover any damage caused by sludge, provided you presented proof of the recommended service. I always serviced it regularly, but thought I’d play it safe using synthetic. I never had any sludge issues, but I did have oil pan gasket leaks a couple of times over the 14 years I had it with 180,000 miles. I then purchased a new 2016 XLE V6, these come with synthetic from the factory. The recommended change interval is every 10,000 miles, but I do it twice as often. I still prefer the 6 cylinder over the 4. Plenty of power without having to push it hard, and I still get 30 mpg on highway trips.
I used to have a 2002 LE with the oil burner 2AZ-FE engine. Ran for 10 years till the transmission grenaded itself with no warning. Replaced that, then a year later, the engine lost oil pressure and NEVER warned me. It so seems the sender unit had become lethargic, which I found out later, so the engine started clanking. I drove it for a while longer, then got the identical 07 to this car shown in the video, V6, the EXACT car. Gave the 2002 to my dad, he drove that for 5 more years before the clanking engine blew up.
I then picked up, as a spare, a 2003 Camry LE with the 1MZ-FE V6 engine. 31,000 miles, driven by a little old lady. Price was right, mileage was low, a diamond in the rough. I will NEVER go back to a 4 cylinder. 6 all the way, so much smoother, runs so much nicer, barely has to rev up to do some damage, and great gas mileage to boot, what's not to love!
Personally I would use 0W-30.
@@njsongwriter You're free to use whatever oil you want. It's recommended to use the required specification.
Use conventional oil to avoid catalytic converter failure and leaks
It's nice to know that there are still people who do it themselves. I could make a crap ton of money by working at an oil change place, helping those moms who drive BMWs.
There are plenty who do it themselves.
Good.
Oh trashy bmws
Yep, I changed my own oil, since 1994, and never have to worry about filters tightened to 1,000 foot pounds of torque.
Back when I changed gas pump filters, we used those white oil absorb rags, and they work fantastically.
I wish I had some of those oil absorb rags, but xjoe81x has them. Those blue rags though, were mine, I gave him a pack.
I changed the the oil in my 1993 town car for the first time a while back. I plan to do a lot of servicing to it this year. I've done a coolant flush, power steering flush, oil change and fuel filter. The car is 28 years old and has 230k miles on it but I'm trying to make it last as long as possible so it's worth putting the work into and it saves quite a bit of money if you can do it yourself.
It's already a classic. You'll keep putting work into it as things break, especially if you daily drive it.
@@jaykay18 I'm well aware of this! It's kind of my project car but it's also one of my two daily drivers the other being a 2006 Tacoma. I don't mind putting the work into it to make it last. It's still cheaper than buying a new car and they don't make cars like that anymore. It's a Jack Nicklaus Special Edition and I only paid $500 for it so I don't mind putting some money into it. I'd hate to see I go to the scrap yard.
@@joshpeterson7241 Oh yeah I hear you all the way on that!
Filter is always changed first.
The engine is off, the car has absolutely no idea.
When u change the filter first you don't have to worry about oil splashing everywhere having an empty pan.
@@erodzno71 You've got a point with that.
Proper torque specs...
Oil filter cap = 25 N•m (18 ft.lbs.)
Oil filter cap drainbolt = 12.5 N•m (9 ft.lbs.)
Follow those specs and you should be able to remove the drainbolt from the oil filter cap without the whole thing coming off.
That's great if it came apart to start with, and the car wasn't a used car.
What was the capacity of your oil drain pan?
It's my friend's, I believe it's a 16 quart. More than plenty for the 6 and change quarts this engine takes. But much less messy than a traditional pan, worth every single penny.
I have to schedule an oil change with u now :)
Har har!
Great video thanks for explaining everything in detail 👍🏾
Thanks very much!
Has the dashboard in that started to break down crack or turn to sticky goo?
Not yet.
oh, this happened to mine. I live in a really hot city.
We live in Connecticut there was a factory recall on them but it was a limited window to bring the car in to have it swapped out…i missed it by two weeks and they wouldn’t fix it was so mad…
@@matthewehmka7095 i feel your pain brother
@@matthewehmka7095 but hey! This beautiful well designed is still going strong with more than 200,000 miles… so thats a win in my book even with a sticky dashboard hahaha.
My engine blew up. Dislike.
Thanks, I appre¢iate your view$!
Also just curious, what would the consequence of overfilling the engine with oil be?
@@nl.515 When too much oil is added, the level in the oil pan becomes too high. That allows a fast-moving lobed rod called the crankshaft to come into contact with the oil and essentially aerate it. The result is a foamy, frothy substance that cannot properly lubricate the engine.