Hey man, Just want to thank you for the awesome write up. Just took delivery of my 2021 JTR Gladiator this past Tuesday 10/27/2020. Your set up is exactly what I just installed... and I must say the additional components completely complimented the 2” Mopar Lift. Thanks again!
Hell yes!! Thanks for the follow up! I’m just paying it forward bud. You’re already a step ahead with the 2021 as it’s equipped with the new steel steering box, which was the answer to the JL and JT’s (including mine) with the loose steering. Mine actually improved when I installed the suspension and steering components. I just completed a 2500 mile overlanding trip from Texas to Colorado and I have to say.. I’ve driven to CO many times over the years and this was the most comfortable vehicle I’ve driven.. and it’s a boss on the pass’... if you haven’t found me on Instagram, see @gator_overland for pics and video.. I hope you enjoy your JT as much as I enjoy mine.🤘🏼
Excellent! Detailed technical explanation and a great teacher. You answered many questions that I still had after watching many other TH-cam videos on lilts. Also thanks for not drowning out your explanations with too loud music. You got a new subscriber.
Good job. Very thorough video. I have the Mopar 2 inch lift but didn't know about all these other items to keep things straight. I have to check for crab walking look etc. My jeep tracks very scary on the highway with a crosswind. Might have to get these relocation kits. And do it the right way. Great job
I just the Mopar 2 inch lift as well. I also didn’t know about all these other upgrades. What I do have is the Fox Steering stabilizer which made a night and day difference with crosswinds and tracking.
Just want to say thank you so much for providing this video. Tbh, I almost went with a higher end Teraflex kit, but decided the Mopar lift kit for my JLU Rubicon Manual, plus the extra parts will be more than enough for the occasional off roading I'll be doing. Only change was going with the Steersmarts Adjustable Rear track bar since the Rock Crawler Relocation Brackets were on back order.
Absolutely… TeraFlex is still a great kit. The best value for Strength, and adjustability all in one kit is Rusty’s.. I just rolled 20,000 miles on my lift configuration… Loved everyone one of them..
@@GatorOverland True, but any lift especially with a reservoir has to be rebuilt every so many miles which can cost a lot and require you to take everything out. They look nice and do their job, but not at this time at least. Yes, the Steersmarts products are very well built and durable. I plan to keep them on for awhile.
Absolutely!! I have just shy of 20k miles of smiles on this lift configuration and no regrets. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
I went with this set up on My JL - the only thing I did not add is the spacer I’m running on 35s so I’m fine I also added the sector Shaft reinforcement from Synergy and OH BOY it makes a difference. Thanks for this video it really help me out with my Jeep
You bet man! Thanks for the reply. Sounds like you have a great set up. I have the brace still sitting in the box on my bench. I wanted to see how much improved the suspension and steering was before I bolted that on. Honestly it’s not terrible, but there is room for improvement. I’m awaiting my steering TSB steel steering box upgrade to arrive and be installed.. apparently it’s an incredible difference over the 2020 aluminum steering box. If I feel that it’s still a bit sloppy I’ll install the synergy brace. Check us out on Instagram @gator_overland for pics and off-road video clips. I’d like to see your set up as well.. enjoy your jL bud🤘🏼
Excellent - this walkthrough was a fortuitous find! I Googled Gator Gladiator 2” Lift with 35” tires so I could ogle and ended up here. I’m waiting till they throw the diesel in the JT and your JT will be my new baby shortly thereafter. I was researching lifts and had settled on the Mopar as all I want is 35’s on the stock rims ‘high and tight’ as you call it. New to Jeeps and lifting correctly (Coming from the Yota world), so this was a super helpful learning experience. Thanks again!
This is awesome to hear! Thanks for taking the time to reply.. you and I have the same mindset. I come from a history of Chevy trucks and jeeps..you may find this hard to believe, but this is the best truck I’ve ever owned.. after the ultimate MOPAR lift, an even better truck that I ever owned..it’s not powerful by any means, but it gets the job done, plus tip.. so..... enjoy your JT bud.. you won’t regret it... even coming from a yota..
Gator_Overland Quick question on the Steer Smarts Drag Link - I’m assuming it the bottom mount version you used? The description says its only suitable for a minimum of a 4” lift. Either I’m not finding the correct one, or this isn’t an issue? www.northridge4x4.com/part/drag-links/78089002-steer-smarts-yeti-xd-draglink-bottom-mount-w-griffin-xd-red-bellow - Already have our first overlanding trip planned through Colorado for next summer - can’t wait!
Nate Johnson Yes sir, I am very much a bottom mount… Next summer is our plans for Colorado as well… My email address is Hawkijon@aol.com .. I would love to share information with you about locations in the case that we have similar plans… Imogene pass? Engineer pass? Blackbear pass? Ophir pass? Telluride? Grand Junction?… The list goes on..
Gator_Overland Pretty much all of the above. Planning the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route. I’ve done a large portion of it by Motorcycle, and believe most of it is achievable on 4 wheels with some detours to places like the Black Canyon etc. Take as much time as needed, see the sites, take lots of pictures, and camp along the way - ridebdr.com/cobdr/
Nate Johnson you’ve just met a friend.. curious what bike and locations you recommend in that area, or anywhere for that matter .. I ride but, but my brother is on the scope for an Rockies ride..
Easily one of the best videos on JL's I've seen. And yes I subscribed. Traded my 2017 Rubicon Unlimited in for a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon. Ordered mopar life and will now order some of these other parts as an add on. Next time I drive through Texas, I'm coming by your shop.
That’s Awesome to hear! Thanks for the kind comment! You’ll love your configuration. I just completed at 2500 mile round trip overlanding route to Colorado.. honestly it was the most comfortable of over a dozen trips I’ve driven to Colorado, On And off-road... you’ll be more than impressed.. the shop is my buddies. check us out for photos and video clips on our Instagram @gator_overland
Whoop! Fightin’ Texas Aggie Class of ‘99 here - Just bought a new Gladiator and having Lithia install the Mopar lift kit today. Can’t wait!!! Thanks for the video! Gig ‘em!
Whoop! Thanks for reaching out! We have 61k miles of smiles on the configuration and love it more everyday! Welcome to the gang! It’s brought us a lot of cool places between Colorado and Utah .. if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out.. jkhartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland Love Colorado…lots of beautiful trails up there… I asked about whether the Mopar kit needed an adjustable track bar since it doesn’t come with one and was told since it’s only a 2” lift, it doesn’t need one. I didn’t really understand why the lift height only being 2” negates needing the adjustable track bar to keep the axle from moving around off-center…any ideas about that?
2 inches lift is that the threshold of requirement adjustable trackbar. Personally i would suggest looking into it for peace of mind, especially if you’re putting on bigger tires and/or plan on any off-roading. I’m not sure if you have already brought it in for installation, but it would be smart to do some before and after measurements… If you send me an email, I can forward you those to knock out before dropping it off. Because of the track bar as the suspension doops, the axle shifts to the driver side, when lifting your relocating to Suspension in its natural state further down, which inevitably move the actual over. In some cases this is minimal, but being this lift is one spring rate for all gladiators some will lift 2 inches (rubicon), and lighter models will lift between 3 and 3 1/2 inches (non rubicons).. because of this unknown variable, it is a shot in the dark of how far your actual shifts, and the further it goes the more bind you put on your control arms. more bind equals excessive wear and potential premature failure of parts. I’ve had over 100 people reach out to me with positive feedback from installing these components… I promise it will not “steer” you wrong. The Mopar lift is a gateway lift… It is totally capable to do anything you want to do, but the more you upgrade the more strength needs to be added.. I Steer smarts has given me a discount code now, so if you consider a track bar you can get 10% off GATROVRLD_SS Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Another great and informative video John!!! I really appreciate all the information you shared and you explanation, as I myself am contemplating my exact setup. Your truck looks AWESOME!!! Keep up the great work!!!
A really great video. You're a talented mechanic and an excellent presenter. I've recently gotten into the Gladiator and really considering getting one. Keep up the great videos.
You bet man! These videos are for people like yourself. I was you, this time last year. Let me know if you have any questions. I know you’ll enjoy your JT
Nice video and write up. While I haven't lifted ours yet, the first thing I installed was a winch and the Synergy Manufacturing front track bar and sector shaft brace in anticipation of adding a lift at a later date. The bracket made a huge difference in the wandering that is often noticed, especially in the cross winds on I-10 headed to CB. I've looked at several lifts, but keep coming back to the Mopar lift since it is designed by the Jeep engineers, and I don't plan on running anything larger than a 35" tire anyway. So, the lift is next on the upgrade list. Thanks for all the detailed part numbers.
Thanks for the reply! My synergy brace is in a box on the back seat. Currently I don’t think I need it, but have it on standby when 37’s are installed for peace of mind. Currently I feel like I’m driving a cloud that tracks like it’s on a set of rails!🤘🏼
I have a Gator color Gladiator Sport S. Installed the Rock Krawler 3" Max Travel lift, bought longer Fox 2.5" shocks, and run 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers. The suspension rides just as nice, if not better than the factory. Just know that 37" tires are a lot heavier and harder than the factory tires. They will not absorb some of the road imperfections as well, and will transmit that feedback into the cab. But it's not a game changer. I would never go back to the factory look. It looks tough, and I get a lot of compliments!
Thanks for the reply!! You have the ultimate suspension my friend. It was between my hybrid build in the video, the RK 3" pro-x or Clayton off road. I didnt want to exceed 3" or 37" tires. From what i gather RK comparatively among reviews of people like yourself, RK is the most comfortable on the road, but it comes at a cost. Depending on what tire i go with, i will chalk test to find the ideal PSI for full road contact, which should also achieve a bit more softness at the same time. My tires came from factor at 47psi.. they chalk tested at 33psi. It make an incredible difference on an already comfortable ride. I guess we will see what comes. Thanks again for the reply! Enjoy your JT!!!
Absolutely, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Let me know if you haven any questions. facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=16r6sg0r7sgab
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Just rolled 22k miles of smiles, and 15k of those are on this lift configuration, and I’ve had no issues or regrets with anything. Love the ride both on and off road. Feel free to ask any questions, I’m happy to help. Check us out on Facebook or IG facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF0ASLyhU9K/?igshid=1qgrmnczzxbut
Thanks for the reply! I’ll have more content soon. I absolutely love this truck! I thought it would be hard coming from a full size. I haven’t looked back! Feel free to ask any questions! Enjoy your JT!
Find me on Instagram and or Facebook.. I’ll send you the before and after.. unfortunately you can’t send photos via. TH-cam facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1ii1hw71n5kzl
New sub as of today, and I want to thank you for doing such a GREAT review and upgrade to your Gladiator. Funny thing is, I went to my local tire shop just yesterday and was asking the very same questions you covered here. I too am not interested in building a monster truck, especially because I have the "Launch Edition" but I hate the way it tracks...it's not horrible, but it is irritating all the same. I don't dare take my eyes off the road for more than a couple seconds as I will be changing lanes! You have put together a package that I'm sure will be perfect for me and what I plan on doing with my "first Jeep" ever!!! I can't thank you enough..👍👍👍👍
You bet man.. I owe most of the research to a fellow group member that is a MOPAR tech and owns a Gladiator as well.. this is M.O... and has cured many JK and JL alike for wandering and death wobble.. check out a group member Brandon Richard’s TH-cam tewl talk for another option to fix the steering.. you may consider this before spending a lot of money. th-cam.com/video/zhKySwEXhGY/w-d-xo.html
There is a "no questioned asked" Technical Service Bulletin to replace the steering gear simply on customer request. Corrects pulling and wandering. That, with the caster increase of most lift kits make the JT one of the truest tracking Jeeps ever!
@@erichconnally5643 I did contact my dealership, "Walnut Creek Jeep" (San Francisco Bayarea) and these guy's ROCK!!! I called and told them about this bulletin that they had not yet known about at that time and the service manager told me they would check into it and get back to me...15 minutes later, I got that call along with, "we've ordered all the components for the steering box" when would you like to come in? NOW THAT IS HOW TO RUN A DEALERSHIP!!! I made an appointment, rented a Bad-Ass Challenger, picked up my Gladiator the next morning, and all I can say now is....O.M.G.!! My baby drives like a Cadillac... I had this done in August, and it's is truly a pleasure to drive! I have since contacted them regarding the Mopar 2" lift, but need to gather more information before I pull the trigger! For those having this "wandering" issue with their Gladiators, DON'T HESITATE..GET IT REPLACED! Cheers, Razor!
Now that’s what I’m talking about!! Thanks for the follow up bud! Enjoy your JT! I have a few pics posted on my Instagram Facebook of our recent overlanding trip to Colorado .. @gator_overland or John Hartel
You bet, thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
@@GatorOverland Thanks! If you have a chance, can you please give me a rough measurement of how much the Rancho geometry brackets hang below the OEM bits? I travel rocky trails with ledges occasionally and wonder how much clearance I'd lose. Thanks again for the information and video.
It hangs down just shy of the same amount of the rear lower control arm hanger… from the bottom of the frame it’s 2”.. if you don’t have Facebook or Instagram, shoot me an email at hawkiJON@AOL.com and I will send you photos and videos for reference… I haven’t had an issue with it on the rocks off road.. There has been contact, but it’s only been on descending drops
Thanks for the reply! Yessir a lot of folks are unaware of the suspension dynamics and alignment issues when they lift a vehicle. What did I do to my knee?
@@GatorOverland It's awesome that you reply. Thank you and I'll keep watching. In the beginning of the video you are sitting on the box and your knees are scuffed up like if you were kneeling to unload the box or take off a tire or something on a rough surface. I'm older and I wish I had better taken care of my knees :)
SKOHC ahhh i got ya!! Yes, that is just dirty shop floor.. you can the broom and pile next to the table. Welding goes on in there often and make for alot if grinding dust. I can get dirty working on a brand new car in there sometimes. Yes, I try to reply to all my comments.
SKOHC ahhh i got ya!! Yes, that is just dirty shop floor.. you can the broom and pile next to the table. Welding goes on in there often and make for alot if grinding dust. I can get dirty working on a brand new car in there sometimes. Yes, I try to reply to all my comments.
SKOHC ahhh i got ya!! Yes, that is just dirty shop floor.. you can the broom and pile next to the table. Welding goes on in there often and make for alot if grinding dust. I can get dirty working on a brand new car in there sometimes. Yes, I try to reply to all my comments.
I just did 37s on stock jl rubicon wheels with 1.5 wheel spacers and 1.5 terraflex spacers in front and daystar .75 in rear. 410 gears in the 8 speed I'm in 7th and 8th all the time.
Nice! I see 6th in my manual if I drive over 75mph, Drifing over 72mph I’ve found my fuel eco suffers drastically. I currently get 16-18 .. if I go 75+ it’s 12-14mph.. the engine Efficiency of that engine can’t overcome the wind resistance from lack of aerodynamics. If I lived somewhere hilly (no SETX flatland) if bet it would suffer further and I’d see 4th and 5th more
Thanks for the reply.. considering the available parts and business operating during covid I had to settle with a few prices a bit higher than the lowest I could find, but still managed to save about $500 from list price items.. my ultimate MOPAR system ran me $2450, but could have been $200-$300 lower if I was able to order from companies that weren’t out of stock or were not shipping at the time of purchase. One audible option would be to sub for the basic steer smarts drag link to save $300 or opt for the synergy trackbar bracket with sector shaft brace and save you near $500.. i have the brace sitting on my bench for when I get bigger tires just for piece of mind, but at this time it’s not needed, we are straight as an arrow down the road with minimal wondering (mostly due to wind).. all in all.. I highly recommend this franken-kit.. I just rolled 1200miles since install and have enjoyed every one of them.. let me know if you have any other questions. Enjoy your JT!
Great video, would have loved to see the install. Why both the trackbar relocation bracket in the rear AND the adjustable trackbar. Wouldn’t the adjustable trackbar be enough?
Hey mark, thanks for the reply! Yes it was unfortunate that my Bluetooth was on during recording and when you open the vehicle door Apple car play connects to the phone and stop anything going on currently with the phone..including recording. I only did an adjustable track bar in the front. The rear is a relocation bracket that allows you to use the stock trackbar. I could have gone the adjustable route in the rear, but the rear suspension function isn’t as critical as the front (no steering) so the relocation bracket with the stock trackbar will suffice. They recenter the axles between the frame rails after lifting, which is a critical dynamic to maintain to ensure proper on road handling. Let me know if you have any other questions. Check out my channel as I have other installs you might find helpful. My insta is @gator_overland if you want to see some off-road footage
You use the term crab walk. That only happens when the rear axle is farther or closer to the front axle on one side or the other. If they are exact it will track straight no matter how far one wheel is out from the front. You would just have one wheel sticking out farther and the other in the same amount.
You are correct, my reference of terminology is inaccurate… I should’ve used more emphasis on offset than crab walk… this instance after lifting should as you said will track straight, but the axles will be out of alignment from the center. That’s the point I was getting at.. thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Installed the 2 inch lift with 37s. Had it aligned but I'm experiencing some shimmy in the steering wheel that usually happens starting around 40 mph. I went with front and rear adjustable track bars .
I’m sorry to hear that! I’d be happy to give you my best insight if you contact me outside of TH-cam.. you’re the 28th person to contact me about their install and the 2nd to have shimmy, he what’s his installed by a dealer and we quickly found it was an big install error on their part. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
Thanks for taking the time to watch and reach out. 80k strong in this configuration. It’s all listed in the video description. JT MOPAR 2” lift: (JTgas3.6)77072468AC (JTdiesel) 77072469AC or 77072468AD ‘23 (JLUGas3.6) 77072395AE (JLUdiesel) 77072399AE New bilstein mopar (JT Gas) 77072468af (JTDiesel) 77072469af RockKrawler rear track bar relocate bracket: RK07360K (or opt for rear adjustable trackbar to avoid drilling holes) Rancho front arm geometry relocation bracket: RS62118B amzn.to/3TM5AZ2 (10% off steersmarts use GATROVRLD_SS) SteerSmarts track bar front: 75049001 SteerSmarts drag link with griffin attenuator: 78089002 MOPAR fox damper: 77072360 *2021 & newer ONLY* pass. damper carriages bolt for fox/MOPAR shock: 6510774AA DayStar 3/4” level spacer: DAYKJ09191BK RockJock Carrier bearing drop spacer www.northridge4x4.com/part/rj-151402-101-rockjock-driveshaft-carrier-bearing-drop-kit
You should have marked all of your bolts so you know if they are moving after 50/100/500 miles. Its easier to check this visually since all bolts touched will have this marking.
That is a very valuable bit of info. I purchased a paint pen just for this reason. I could have done it after initial tightening, but I planned to do the marking after my first 500 torque check (which will probably be this weekend) and then recheck every 3000 after that, and visibly inspect every time before and after an off road adventure.
John, thank you so much for sharing your research and this very detailed video with us! It is so informative! Quick question: Where can one find the specified torque settings for each bolt and nut, so that one can tighten them correctly? :)
It’s all in the MOPAR kit, and specified on the other upgrades nomenclatue… But if you just shoot an email to JKHARTEL3@gmail.com I will forward you the one I have saved on my phone
Hey! Thanks for the comment! The relocation bracket In addition to the provided MOPAR LCA’s.. the MOPAR kit calls to be within a range of 4.5° caster (+/-) 1° which is outside of the 5 to 7° caster that is ideal for these trucks.. the Lower control arm provided in the kit is only 1/8” longer then the factory LCA’s.. So by using the lower control arm relocation bracket and the provided lower control arm with the MOPAR kit… I am at 6.5° castor and track like I’m on a set of rails… The benefit of having your control arms parallel (near stock) is increased ride performance and handling on the road… But the caveat is rock trails and potential for getting hung up… I’ve gone on some pretty technical trails and not had an issue yet… Feel free to contact me on Facebook or Instagram for any other questions and pictures m.facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/gator_overland?r=nametag
So was thinking of the mopar 2 inch lift with steer smart front and rear track bar steering stabilizer level kit to get rid of rake and the steersmart steering box upgrade should that be all lol will be a 21 willys jl great vid
That’s going to be an incredible set up… If you are going to level, you will need a 3/4 to 1.5” level kit for the front only .. I did 3/4” front and rear to maintain my rake. Steer smarts steering box bracket is my next upgrade….. get with andy Perry of steer smarts. Super nice guy.. he’s on Facebook. If you find me on Facebook I will send you photos of a Willys with this exact configuration… The only thing I can say different is if you want a little bit more comfortable ride and better tracking on Highway to go with the relocation brackets… The extra amount that you will get from there leveling kit will Decrease the Caster angle and potentially make it wonder on the highway.. you can also go adjustable lower control arm in the place of the provided longer control arm from the Mopar kit… This will allow you to dial in your Caster angle, But your location of connection will still be at an increased angle so it will translate into a slightly less comfortable ride than going relocation bracket. Look me up, I’d be happy to help you with any questions you might have. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Unfortunately, no, the mopar kit is only applicable to non-Mojave gladiators… Mojave uses bigger 14mm shock bolts instead of 12 mm shock bolts. There are plenty of companies out there now that are making shock extension brackets for the Mojave and will work with 2 to 3 inch lift. If you want to maintain the stock ride, you can do a simple coil spring spacer lift like AEV offers and comes with everything necessary amzn.to/3raFXWf There are other budget, friendly options like rusty, off-road, spring spacer, but they sell the extension brackets separately.
I have 2 fox shocks on the back of mine, so what do I do for the second shock not included in this mopar 2" lift kit? I have a new 2022 Jeep Gladiator mojave. Please let me know as I want to do the same lift.
Great video and excellent technical and useful information! I really appreciated the time and effort you took to list out everything you did and why. The only thing that I would like to know, which I didn't find in the comments below or in the video, was how long it took you to get this installed from start to finish. Was it a multiday project? I'm stationed in California, and the base has an auto hobby shop with lifts that I can use but, they don't allow overnight work, so your thoughts on how long a project like this takes would be helpful for planning purposes. BTW... congrats on your wedding and I look forward to more content!
Thanks bud I appreciate the reply. I did the install by myself with mostly hand tools in about 6hours. (One hour was spent on the F’n bumpstops). if you have assistance you could probably do it in 3-4 hours.. I did the rear in 1 hour. Takes about 30 min to torque all the bolts at the end.
@@GatorOverlandHow much lift did the Mopar lift net at the end for you? I park my Jeep in parking garages and height is a concern. My end goal is a well riding overlander as well. I will probably end copying your setup if the lift doesn't add 3 inches. I need more like 1.5 inch lift.
My lift yielded right at 3 inches above my stock height… The top of my truck is 75 inches with 37’s and should fit in most parking garages.. by building code They're generally 7 feet (84 inches) for ordinary parking spaces and 8 feet 2 inches (98.4 inches) for van-accessible spaces. You should be fine.. i’ve even managed some parking garages with my RTT on. As far as ride goes, I have 80,000 miles of smiles and no regrets… Feel free to email me and I’d be happy to share info and pictures… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Does the 2" Mopar lift maintain the factory rake? I'm currently running a 1 1/2" leveling kit to eliminate the rake so my thinking is to install the lift springs with the leveling spacer to maintain no rake. I do like the drop brackets for the front control arms. Excellent video!
You are right on track… The Mopar lift is not a leveling kit lift… It is 2 inches in the front and 2 inches in the rear over the stock height… The factory rake is approximately 2 inches therefore you would have a near level truck after you installed the 2 inch Mopar with your current leveling kit… Enjoy your JT
Maybe I’m missing something here, but don’t you also need a relocation bracket for the track bar when installing the aftermarket drag link, to keep them parallel? Otherwise possible issues with bump steer?
In a perfect case scenario having all steering components as level as possible (0deg.) is ideal for steering, bumpsteer and tracking. The trackbar is designed with an offset curve attempt a more lateral connection from frame to passenger side axle, otherwise you would need a drop down bracket from the driver frame mount location and that would potentially come into contact with your axle and steering components with driver side compression (articulation flex). The drag link is currently at 7.5deg and is parallel with the trackbar @7.5deg. They were both approx 2.5deg before the lift. I personally don’t feel much if any difference than before if anything it feels better, but it definitely tracks better. You’re going to run into potential highway manner issues the higher you go (3”+) which is why it’s ideal to keep your lift as minimal as possible to keep geometry proper and a low’ish center of gravity. A comparable lift to what is in then system I put together would be the EVO overland option, which includes the geometry relocation brackets which is ideal for off-road driving comfort than rock crawling specific. If I was doing it differently I would consider the 2.5 icon stage 4, metal cloak, Clayton, Rock krawler pro-x, or previously mentioned EVO. All great kits with credible years of experience. The difference that separates them is what provides shocks. The MOPAR system, though lacking some essentials for comparable cost of a kit, has an incredible shock set. Check out my insta @gator_overland and you can see some off-road pics and video. In the end, do your research, and “buy once, cry once” And you can’t go wrong. Just remember to get a legitimate alignment and chalk test your tires to guarantee proper inflation for highway tracking and comfort. Let me know if you have any more questions. Enjoy your JT.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I have part numbers listed in the TH-cam video description including what it cost me. Due to availability in early covid it was about $2400, but could do my exact components for $2000’ish if you shop competitively. Regardless what you pay, it’s worth every sent to do it right. I have 16k miles of smiles on the lift and about 300 of them are off-road.. this handles both on and off-road very well. Check us out on Facebook or Instagram. Id be happy to share info and videos with you. th-cam.com/users/GatorOverland instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
@@GatorOverland awesome. Thanks man, I’ll check out the links. The Gladiator is one of the vehicles I’m considering for my next rig and your mods with 35s is exactly what I would do. I like being able to not void the warranty by using Mopar lift. Amazing actually how good it looks with the lift and those wheels with the 33 in mudders- much better than it looks with the other available wheels and ATs. I look forward to checking out your other vids. Have fun out there! 🤙
You bet! I just recently did a trail adventure in the Texas hill country, which included some rock crawling. Needless to say I’m impressed. Also just to inform, installing a lift will not void your vehicles warranty, however, it can void the warranty of replacement parts directly associated with the lift components installed. It has to be proven to that the malfunction or premature failure is related. I.e. you’re starter or radio will still be covered if you install a suspension lift, regardless of brand. The advantage one gets of installing a MOPAR is a suspension upgrade specifically engineered for the vehicle and requires little to no additional components to be replaced, thus limiting the opportunity of failure. Fortunately most reputable aftermarket suspension lift companies warranty their lift parts. In the event of component failure, they would be liable for part replacement, not MOPAR/FCA. All I have to say is the MOPAR option is more than capable for what it’s worth, and I have the belly scratches to prove it. It’s exceptional on road and mild trails and mountain pass roads as well. I do recommend going with the beefy upgrades if you can swing it. I’ll have you know all these upgrades were told to me by a vetted off-roader and 20yr MOPAR tech from Maine. He’s been fixing death wobble and other lift brand associated issues with these components for years. Every modded show room vehicle get this install. He had this on his own JT and is wife’s new JL, and it’s all warranty approved upgrades. 🤘🏼
I wish i had bought the mopar kit but me being me,i just ordered kings adjustable shocks front and back and as of right now im saving up for a rock krawler pro-x kit but hey atleast have some parts saved up such as my 2 ton steering upgrade the king shocks i have and a front axle trus,some wheels and 35's and those babies are already installed cause they fit :D and a bunch of other goodies too :D,i cant wait until i racked up enough money for that rock krawler kit :D
I’ll be honest, the pro x was in my shopping cart at one point in time, but early year covid had them unavailable and then I can to terms with myself and knew i would never use the full potential of the kit and couldn’t bring myself to spend 5k.. so I chose the MOPAR with suitable upgrades to make it worthy both on and off road. The pro x is a great kit! Good luck with your build. Shoot a pic to my email hawkijon@aol.com
@@GatorOverland Yeah i understand too,since i offroad my jeep quite a bit i can already tell im gonna need that lift kit but even though my truck stock just with 35's it performs pretty good and im happy with the truck and it performs wayyyy better than my pretty heavily modified 3rd gen tacoma that i used to have but i traded it in and im glad i did cause it was just a money pit,i had kings all around including the bump stops from king in the back and it was pretty good but compared to my jeep it is just awesome,but yeah man i cant wait to lift this thing wich i probably will next year cause im really just want to save up for a regear as well and do all of that at once but yeah :Df
@@GatorOverland hello, I’m interested in your help, I just bought the 2021 Jeep Wrangler rubicon diesel, looking at your parts list, if I gather parts, I would love the help. I’m in kingwood, gig’em
Can someone help me figure this out? I have an ecodiesel sport. Installed mopar lift kit specific for ecodiesel and it only gave me 2" while everyone else is getting 3" and 3.5", I wonder why?
Different models are different weights and the yield is “atleast” 2”… if you want more at this point you can always add teraflex or dayStar spacers like I did.. my gasser rubicon yielded 2” as well (not including the spacers)
Thanks for the reply. Any lift will affect towing capacity, as well as tires. This MOPAR kit was engineered specially for the gladiator and will maintain similar towing characteristics of the stock springs. Remember, the tow rating is mainly limited to heat generation which is tested at extremes (like towing in the mountains)… So just consider your conditions… If it’s flat then it isn’t a big deal. so, re-gear properly for increased tire size, keep the springs quality, and watch your gauges.
You said that 4.10's are very capable with 35's. Does that mean I don't need to regear to 4.56? My gas mileage is around 14 mpg. I haven't done the tuner/programmer yet. I like 35's, they fit underneath fine. The 37's won't fit. I don't want a spare on the bed. That's for my truck bed tent. I bought the 2" but I wasn't aware with the addition you've added on your suspension.
Hey! Thanks for the comment. I have 37‘s with the stock 4.10 axles in the manual transmission… The 37‘s true measurement is 35 1/2 @30psi. ...with 35 inch tires you can expect to be about 33-34 inch true measurement .… That said, I do notice a little bit of decrease in acceleration performance, and my use of sixth gear has gone away almost entirely… The 5% & 6% grades in Colorado while loaded down with camping gear revealed the need for a regear. I will re-gear in the spring to 4.88 to optimize fuel economy (currently 16-18mpg as a southeast Texas flatlander) … I do not tow much, if at all with my truck… I would go 5.13 for torque priority over optimum fuel eco if I was towing with 37s. Its not directly necessary with 4.10’s but If you’re planning on not going bigger than 35 inch tires, to be optimal, you should consider 4.56, and if you tow, 4.88. If you do increase your tire size and you drive an automatic transmission, it is very important that you flash the computer for the tire change, so that your speedometer is accurate and your shift points or optimum… You can really damage the transmission if you don’t… Especially if you’re towing a load… The ideal way to figure out what gear is best for your tire size is this simple math Divide bigger tire size by stock tire size, and multiply that answer by the original gear ratio 37” (bigger tire) \ 33” (stock) = 1.1212 4.10 (stock gear ratio) x 1.1212= 4.5969 Which would be your ideal regear ratio. Though it is very close to the 4.56 gear options it’s better to round up to the next gear set, which is 4.88 to maintain near stock performance. Going 5.13 would give you torque priority for towing. ReGears or not, I’ve found driving over 72mph puts your fuel eco in the dumper regardless of tire size. As far as 37’s go, most brands fit under the bed. BFG, and falken will fit for sure Enjoy your JT
Want to make sure I understand, you got the adjustable track bars in order to recenter your axle, which I get. But what value are the relocation brackets? I think you said they bring the angles back to factory spec, and if you didn’t use the relocation brackets, what would have resulted besides a rougher ride? Would things wear out more quickly? Thanks in advance.
You have asked a very good question… the relocation brackets puts not only the caster angle back to factory spec which is 5 to 6 1/2°… But it puts the geometry angle of the control arms themselves near parallel to the ground… You can achieve the proper caster angle by investing in adjustable lower control arms, Which is fine, but by comparison of road comfort the relocation brackets will be more comfortable. Most rock crawlers will do adjustable control arms for clearance.. if you’re not rock crawling, the relocation brackets are the way to go for caster angle and comfort..
Got the mopar 2 inch lift, fox steering stabilizer and BFG KO2’s ordered. 1 more quick question mines the overland high altitude to level mine will it take the same spacer? The reason why I’m asking is I do know a rubicon comes 1 inch higher from factory so wasn’t sure if the same one would level mine :) im so so excited thanks so much for all the information you have helped me so much
Good morning heather. Believe it or not they are all the same ride height, Mojave does have a 1” higher ride height in the front. The aesthetic height difference comes from high rise fenders and taller tires. That’s why a 2” MOPAR yields at least 2” on every model less of a Mojave, lighter models are often yield 3” (can’t put a MOPAR lift on the Mojave because the shock bolts are different diameters). All JTs are approx 1.5 to 2” forward rake. This is measured roughly on the bottom of the body to the ground just behind the front tire, and same part of the body just before the rear tire (not measuring fenders) That said, you utilize a 1.5” teraflex spacer on your front 2”‘MOPAR spring if you want level. I’m 3/4” spacer front and rear which maintained my factory rake, but gave me additional 3/4” lift front and back. Contact me via Facebook or email as I have progressional photo of my friend truck who did exactly what you’re asking. I’m considering doing the same actually to counter the sag I got when I put on the winch. John HARTEL or jkhartel3@gmail.com
Hey John, just rewatched this. I have a lead on a 2" lift without the rear bump stops for $300, just 1,000 miles on it! Seriously considering it. Sounds to me like I would really need the relocation kits and the adjustable track bar, but could get away without upgrading other stuff? I would like to have the geometry right. I only have 33s on it now and they're pretty new so I'm a little concerned that it might look strange. In your video are those the 35s? Last question, do you know if the springs have the same spring rate as the Max Tow springs? I'd like to retain my payload rating if at all possible as it's a few hundred pounds more than the Rubicon. I don't know if that's related to the springs or if the Sport S with Max tow is just overall lighter than the Rubicon. I did add the front and rear steel bumpers after an accident, so my payload has already dropped due to those two items. Thanks as always for your contributions to the community and looking forward to some videos with the little one out on the trail with you!
Thanks again for reaching out… I feel that I can better explain this via text or email or in person… in my video I have 33s in factory. Please shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
I got my Gladiator about 2 months ago with the intention of building an overland rig. I am very interested in the Mopar lift kit and felt like it was a good choice given that I can get it done through Jeep and keep my warranty all square. Would you advise against getting the lift kit done without the extras? I've watched a few other videos about this same kit and while yours is definitely the most in-depth, the others didn't have all the extras installed. I am very new to all of this (came from a Honda HR-V) and am still learning. I have the 80th Gladiator and was gonna keep the stock wheels on for now until they need to be replaced. I appreciate your feedback and your video!
Hey! Happy holidays! Thanks for the comment! Contact me via Facebook or Instagram and id be happy to go more in depth on exactly what you’ve asked. facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1g7l4dcl1dlms
Just bought the exact JT. Awesome vehicle so far. I may have missed it, but can you provide a list of the parts for this build? I’m looking to do the same, as I do mostly flatland riding with occasional rocks/big hills. Thanks -
You bet! You won’t regret it! Check the TH-cam description dropdown for links to everything. Here are all the model numbers if you want to search it yourself. Don’t forget to check northridge 4x4 use promo code LITE BRITE for up to 20% off ... it saved me almost $400 at my time of purchase. Let me know if you have any other questions. More install and off-road content coming soon. Check out my insta for off-road footage @gator_overland JT MOPAR 2” lift: 77072468AB RockKrawler rear track bar relocate bracket: RK07360K Rancho front arm geometry relocation bracket: RS62118B SteerSmarts track bar front: 75048001 SteerSmarts drag link with griffin attenuator: 78089002 MOPAR fox damper: 77072360 DayStar 3/4” level spacer: DAYKJ09191BK
@@razorworks9942 To be honest, all these components were recommended by a veteran Mopar tech that has fine tuned the part application. The truth is, most suspension components among various manufactures have very little, if any differences when it comes to construction. I do prefer to have a uniform name when it comes to components, but thats where the line is drawn for Jeeps. Some mfg specialize in a look vs. function and vise versa. My steering components are of the stronger variety by comparison of others that come in a uniform brand lift kit. When it comes to jeep, hybridizing suspension components is a very common thing. Some jeepers may prefer the dynamic of the Rock Krawler Pro-X 3" lift with the triangulated 4 link (i do for sure) but have found the RK springs are not adequate for heavy towing and they choose synergy or other name brand springs that are ideal for towing. As long as you do you research, you cant go wrong.
@@GatorOverland Really appreciate your feedback. It's very comforting speaking to someone who has the knowledge you do and not some kid telling me it's the best because his manager is pushing sales.. I look forward to speaking with you soon!
@@razorworks9942 you bet man! Likewise.. Im no pro mechanic and I’m fairly unbiased when it comes to this stuff because I actually use my vehicles more than a parking lot or a garage Queen, I don’t have the money for that. I do my research, inquire with others and commit.. if it doesn’t exist On TH-cam and it interests me, it’ll be on TH-cam soon after. If inform or help even one person then my time invested in producing my review is worthy.
Hey that was a good video. What was your caster at after you got done. By the way we have talked in the gladiator page on Facebook. I'm still not a fan of the front brackets hanging down. 😁 I just did the same lift today ,but went with 1 in terraflex spacer in front andv.75 day star on rear. On top of the mopar lift.
😂no one is a fan of the brackets.. but if you want it to be right go adjustable.. if you want it to be right and more comfortable go brackets.. if you want the most adjustability and comfort combine. Contact Me via Facebook I’ll shoot you my specs
Thank you for the content. I have the same exact Jeep, Gator, Rims, etc, but with soft top. I learned so much that I never knew about lift kits. I saw you were waiting for Icon, but jumped on this. What stage of Icon would you have done?
Hey bud! Thanks for the comment! Without a doubt 2.5” stage 4 would have been my choice. The icon became available about 3months after my install and I was happy to see all my upgrades were right inline with their upgrades. I have absolutely no regrets going the route I did. The truck is super comfortable and tracks very well. I do think I benefit from additional comfort by going with the front control arm relocation brackets. Though they are controversial for crawling they are more than acceptable for my wheeling style. Let me know if you have any questions. 🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland Just became a new subscriber today. My style will be a lot like yours, overland with a bit of medium rock crawl. I will remember the relocation brackets. I’ll check out the stage 4 as I want adjustable links as you mentioned. It is my daily driver. I want 37” Nito Grapplers with 18” Black Rhino Abraham’s rims. Will a 2.5” Stage 4 Icon be good for these tires. I don’t tow, but might regear to 5:13 as Bubba from Exodus 4x4 recommended it on his channel. Do you have a video on regearing yours? Couldn’t find one. I will have to hirer the work out. I’m new to off-roading and trying to learn as much as possible.
You’re right on track, Im southeast Texas, so I have to drive a lot of highway before arriving at ideal adventure destinations, so highway comfort is priority for me. The truck itself is more than capable of most any adventure in stock form, lifts are more increasing capability and obviously the cool factor. The concepts of both lifts are so similar. What you pay for in the higher end lifts is general domestic design and mfg (not imported) with premium internal component and material. That lift as well as many others will be perfect for that size and brand of tire. Surprisingly enough i talk to Bubba quite a bit. I will be using him for my gear install as well. I highly recommend you use a vetted gear installer. Unlike forgiveness on lifts, gears are very critical and require a sequenced break in over approx 500 miles.. I’m a manual and don’t tow, so I’ll be going 4.88 to be fuel eco priority. Contact me via Facebook messenger and I’ll provided more info an pics as well. Do keep in mind 37’s is an idea... my 37’s at 30psi are 35.5” tall. I’ll explain gearing math as well to you. I will be doing a video over my gearing and probably collab with bubba if all goes well. facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CGUzwbOh65Q/?igshid=za9324rnnx3z
Would this setup minus the daystar spacers be ok on the overland with 35’s on 18” stock wheels? Mainly driving to work in Houston with some beach driving and ranch driving. Once a year I drive up in north end of hill country to hunt a massive ranch with lots of rocky elevation. Great looking rig and the science nerd in me likes the specificity of how you explained things.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! Absolutely this setup is perfect even excluding the additional spring spacers. I only included the spacers because I didn’t want to exceed 3” lift for my own peace of mind to avoid any extensive upgrades like brake lines or front driveshaft replacement. At minimum I recommend the adjustable front track bar in general, it doesn’t have to be brand specific to my use, but stock is not ideal 2”+.. whether you consider the full kit recommendation or similar, I have no doubts that you love the on and off road performance. Contact me on Facebook or Instagram if you have any further questions facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=18w1k6bu5kujh
Being as you live in/near Houston, i live west of Beaumont near winnie. I have no problem meeting up for a test ride or discussion of upgrades and ideas.
Most shop rates are $150 an hour… Typically 3-5 hour charge.. If you’re asking how much the kit cost it would be up to you… Different outlets have different prices, but I did mine for about $2200 and installed it myself to save the money… It can easily be done in the driveway with minimal handtools… The only technical tool would be a torque wrench and you can rent those from an auto parts store
With the amount of torque that is developed down low in the diesel, it is not necessary to regear up to 37’s… Anything taller you will need to consider a regear. Inversely, gasoline doesn’t develop its torque until high in the rpm range, which is why it requires a regear with just slight increase in tire size. With a diesel, you typically regear one gear set down from the gasoline… For instance, if a gasser regear is 5.13 or 4.88 for 37’s, you would want 4.10 or 4.56.. I have a friend who is a Mopar tech and wheels really hard… He runs 40s on his diesel and did a axle swap from a gasser Rubicon with 4.10 gears and swapped over the steel knuckles… He gets 25+ mpg .. it is ideal for you to calibrate the speedometer for the tires size increased. Not doing the calibration. Could damage the transmission especially if pulling a load.. Proper tire size input would be the distance from the ground to the center of the wheel multiplied by two .. * do not type in 37” for a 37” tire.. I.e. my BFG KO2 37s are 35.5 inches tall. The distance from the ground to wheel center is 17.25”.. 17.25x2= 34.5” .. 34.5” is my height input for my 37” tire.. it’ll be different for everyone..
For those of us that might go this route, do you have the measurements of the Track Bar and Drag Link to get us in the correct ballpark before our alignment?
Billy Kirkpatrick that’s a good question. I will Need to add this to my PDF measurements I have available in my dropbox. But to answer your question directly, it’s approx 41.25” zerk to zerk for the draglink, and approx 34” Bolt center to bolt Center for the track bar. And as mentioned before, I did not touch the steering tie rod. It was adjusted by the alignment shop from the 7/32 set at factory back to 3/32
Billy Kirkpatrick absolutely bud! Enjoy your JT! I’m enjoying the hell out of mine. If you consider the system I put together you won’t regret it. I absolutely love it.
Wow what a wonderful and clear video thank you so much. I just bought my 2021 high altitude JT and new to the Jeep I’m wanting bigger tires and a lift kit so going with the Mopar I also want to keep my ride quality but I do have a question hopefully you can help me or someone :) I know yours is a rubicon so it’s different than mine do I need everything you posted here?
Hey!! Thanks for the comment! Everything in that kit I explained will work flawlessly with your high altitude. The may be a few difference in appearance and functionality between rubicon and high altitude but all the suspensions are the same when it comes to lifts, except for Mojave, and they just use bigger bolts on their shocks, so technically the MOPAR kit would work on that model too. Feel free to reach out if you have any question. I’m always happy to help. You would make 37th person to install this kit and contact me. The other 36 have let me know they are more than satisfied. I assume you’ll be sticking to more of the pavement side of lift with the high altitude. You can omit the draglink with griffin attenuator. That is a super upgrade and extra cost for those who don’t wheel. Don’t get me wrong you will notice a difference over stock but it won’t be as crucial for the overall functionality of the kit. The main focus is the trackbar for re-centering your axle, and relocation brackets for maintaining your caster angle (5-7 deg) and enhance your ride comfort. 🤘🏼
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
You bet heather!! That’s what is all about! I’m confident you’ll enjoy this suspension setup. It will excel in comfort on road over stock and is more than capable off-road.. don’t hesitate to ask any questions .. I have video clips and photos available via Facebook and Instagram as well.. other “more complete/ all in one” lifts to check out are Rusty’s off-road 2” basic or advanced, Clayton off-road 2.5” or icon 2.5” stage 4.. rustys is the best value for us made craftsman’s shop and performance.. MOPAR is also a great option as well, you can’t go wrong as long as the track bar and control arms caster angle can be adjusted..
Hello, just a question but instead of relocating the rear track bar by drilling into factory components couldn't you just purchase and install an adjustable real trackbar? Thank you.
Thanks for your comment! To answer your question, absolutely! I went with the bracket to utilize the stock track bar as it should be sufficient for most any wheeling i do. Having the brute adjustable trackbar up front is ideal because of the additional movement and stress of steering. I the bracket is a budget move, but it put me 1/8” different from side to side, (damn near center).. an adjustable trackbar will allow you to dial in that 1/8” actual center if you wanted to. The advantage of the bracket is it puts the trackbar near parallel with the ground which is the nearer to stock angle, which is ideal for proper radial operations.. 😂 it wasn’t an easy choice, but they but do their job. Perfect case scenario if I had the money is combine both😉
Just confirming you did not replace the front upper control arms with adjustable version? If not, at what height would they be required? I have a Max Tow in Gator green and planning out my future lift: looking at 3” for 37s. Still trying to figure out how I can get it lifted and keep original rear tow springs. Excellent video and detailed enough to help others new to JTs understand the mechanics behind the Mopar lift.
Thanks for the reply!! Always good to hear from a fellow gator. To answer your question, all the control arms are stock except for the new front lower control arms provided with the MOPAR lift kit (they are approx. 1/8” longer than stock) Technically my “ultimate” kit will allow me to go up to 4” spring without going to adjustable components because of the control arm relocation bracket. Even if you went with a Clayton off-road, metal cloak, or rock krawler which have all adjustable control arms, you can still utilize the relocation bracket. In fact, with EVO, the relocation bracket is part of the “Overland” optioned kits. It’s kind of the best of both worlds, your stock geometry with full adjustability. Keep in mind I went MOPAR because of 2 reasons.. I could afford it, and I didn’t see needing anything more. BUT!! If money wasn’t an option I would highly consider Clayton off-road, metal cloak, or RK ProX. The downside is most any of the fully adjustable kits do not come with shocks which would be another $1000, which would be knocking on the $4000 mark. The system I put together was approx $2400, but could have gone for $200-$300 less if I had more patience. I have the synergy trackbar brace w/ sector shaft sitting in a box in my garage. I haven’t seen the need to install that yet, but will probably do it for peace of mind when I go 37. If you’re interested in adjustable kits, you should check out a friend of mines channel/instagram JT Mods. He’s going metal cloak and I’m excited to see how it performs. If you go MOPAR.. at minimum you need the front adjustable trackbar and rear adjustable trackbar or rear relocation bracket. These components will work up to 4” lifts if you decide to go that route. Shoot me some pics of your rig when your done @gator_overland
I forgot to mention you can go synergy, they use a spacer in the rear which would maintain your rear spring rate and towing capability… Remember when you lift a vehicle you change the towing dynamics… If I was going to be lifting with towing in mind I would definitely consider Clayton off road… They have a Triple rate rear springs that allow for flexing off road and bind up for proper towing characteristics.
Gator_Overland - So I finally installed the Mopar 2”, Daystar 0.75”, and Rancho Geo Brackets: exactly you. Remembering I have Tow Max with Rubicon D44 axles, my castor is now 7.7LF / 7.3RF. I used the Mopar 2” LCAs that are a little long, so wondering if I should put the OME LCAs back on to reduce the castor back into spec range. Appreciate any thoughts you may have on it. Thank you, Barry
Barry Hollis you definitely could. I used the middle hole (3” lift).. as long as your 5-8 deg you are golden.. too much caster will effect your drive shaft. I’d say your fine, or move it one hole up on the bracket. The MOPAR LCA’s are only 1/8” longer. I’d hate for you to replace it for no reason.
Gator_Overland - I am currently at the top hole to provide the smallest amount of positive castor. I was concerned, since the Mopar 2” instruction spec sheet states 4.80 +/- 1.00. Thank you for your time and insight, Barry
Thanks for the reply.. an answer for your question can go many directions, but to answer it simply.. yes, it was worth it to me to get rubicon. I built both the sport s with max tow and the rubicon with the same options and it came to $90 a month more for the rubico .. The sway bar disconnect is a convenience but I don’t see it as the most valuable upgrade for a rubicon, it’s easy to make quick disconnects.. the value is I don’t have to install $2k worth of lockers, it has 4:1 crawl ratio and manual transmission with 4.10 gears.. you can’t get that in any other model. I don’t tow, so the 4500lb tow isn’t an issue. if I would get any other model it would be sport s with max tow in automatic to get 4.10 gears and 7650lb tow rating.
I first watched this about two years ago and ended up getting/installing the Mopar lift. All was well until recently as a slight shimmy is occurring after hitting a bump at about 50 mph. At this time I have added many of the aftermarket products you did with your install. I am now thinking of adding the control arm relocation bracket. Do you recall what degree of castor you had after the install? BTW great video. Thanks
Hey mark! Thanks for reaching out, I’m happy to help. I have 57k on this lift with no shimmy or issues, and even after quite a bit of hard wheeling...I’m at 6.5 caster with the relo brackets (ideal caster is 5-7deg, but 6.5 is the money maker) A shimmy at 45-50 is probably and suddenly happening is probably steering damper (remove and see if you experience the same issue) a shimmy can be from a number of things. After modifying always get your alignment sheet Things to check -lug nuts -Tire pressure (no more than door jamb psi) -Wheel balance -Alignment (0-3/32” toe in max) per factory spec, but steersmarts has proven 0.25deg per side toe out (0.50deg total toe out) to be the best after 2month closed course testing. -Caster angle (5-7 degrees, ideally 6.5deg -Loose or worn steering component (usually the track bar or other component touched during the install) -steering stabilizer (rarely) -steering box (early 2020 and older had an aluminum box that need to be upgraded to the new steel box per the TSB) Photos help.. feel free to email me jkhartel3@gmail.com and we can take this further
@@GatorOverland thanks for the response and information. I have checked all joints, bolts and specs. Also, have upgraded components (including ball joints) as with your install excepting drag link attenuater, rear track bar and geometry correction brackets. I do have the Steersmart drag link. I’m going to try the geometry correction brackets next and wanted to make sure the caster will not go beyond 7 degrees when using the Mopar lift control arms in conjunction with the geometry correction brackets. I am also adding the steersmart sector shaft/track bar bracket. The rear track bar is next on the list. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for this video 😀 Im about to install the same setup… Mopar + 3/4 front and rear. I was wondering if you had to install a new drive shaft? … Thanks 😊
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. 3.5” inch and smaller lifts do not directly require a driveshaft replacement for the front, however the rear you could consider a carrier bearing spacer. The rule of thumb is dropping approx. 1/4” per inch per lift inch (I.e. .25” x 3”lift= .75”, so near 1” spacer should be sufficient. I have 37k on this config without the spacer and haven’t seen any signs or issues of the rear shaft angle being too steep, but have considered it for peace of mind. See link below.. 4”+ lifts should be fully adjustable and definitely recommend front driveshaft replaced because of max angle on the stock rzeppa joint on the t-case, especially when flexed or full driver side droop. Keep in touch, let me know if you have any questions about the install… I’m always happy to help… Feel free to send photos to me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com or find me on Facebook facebook.com/JKHartel3 www.northridge4x4.com/part/rj-151402-101-rockjock-driveshaft-carrier-bearing-drop-kit
@@GatorOverland Wow thanks for getting back to me… I will install the lift this Weekend and for sure I will Send you pics. And I Will consider the spacer in the link you sent me … for the price i think it worth it… Thanks!
Yes a $30 piece of mind isn’t bad… Quite honestly I don’t know why I haven’t done it… I think I will do that now and maybe post a video about it 😂😂, thanks for the inspiration.. I do recommend you having a torque wrench capable of 250 pounds.. these can be rented at O’Reilly.. also it’s very important that you tighten all your suspension bolts with the vehicle resting on its own weight. Do not tighten your control arms while the vehicle is suspended. Remember the bumpstop bolt threads, run that nut back and forth to clear the lacquer paint. Other than that it’s a straightforward install and I think you will enjoy it. Doing your own installs allows you to gain confidence with any issues that may become in the future on or off the trail. 🤝
@@GatorOverland Totally agreed with you… If you get stock on the trail without knowing what you’re doing could be an issue. That’s why I prefer the DIY option. I will have to wait a bit for the spacer… unfortunately here in canada 🇨🇦 everything is back order 🤦🏻♂️… And Thanks for the tip (tighten bolts to the right specs it’s a must) something that we can’t play with…. By the way sorry for my english im A french Canadian 😂
pas de problème, votre anglais a été compris. J'habite à la frontière Texas/Louisiane et j'ai grandi avec de nombreux amis cajun-français (acadiens) .. plutôt cool. Merci
Absolutely!!! I have over 10k miles of smiles on this configuration, 7k of them are on 37’s. I have every bit of confidence that you will love the on and off-road performance.I absolutely love the ride quality of mine… I just completed a 2500 mile over landing trip from Texas to Colorado, and I’ll be honest, I’ve driven to Colorado many times over the years and this was one of the most comfortable I’ve been… I run 37 inch tires At 28 psi… Literally driving a cloud on a set of rails. Check out our insta for photos and video clips. instagram.com/p/CGUzwbOh65Q/?igshid=15jnghklo7dk4
Hey brother I may not or rather I may have missed it but at the end of your video the tires you have on there now what size are they? Appreciate you keep up the good work
In this video I’m running the stock 33’s, but I have since up’d to 37” BFG KO2 all terrains and love them. I will probably regear to 4.88 in the future but 16.5-18mpg currently on highway isn’t too bad. They are only 10lbs heavier each than the 33’s. Check out my other videos involving air compressor install and 4way inflate/deflate system for more looks at the truck. I should have more wheeling content soon. See my insta @gator_overland for pics and video
Thanks for the awesome info. I have the exact same Mopar lift and Fox Steering Stabilizer. I didn’t realize all these other upgrades could transform this lift into an “ultimate” one. With money tight right now I don’t see myself being able to upgrade to the components you’ve suggested just yet, however do you think just riding on what I currently have will cause damage in the long term? Thanks again for informative content. Will subscribe.
I dont think MOPAR would market this lift with the intention of damaging vehicle components. A 2” lift is probably the max you want to go without upgrading components. Its more for peace of mind. But the outcome was totally worth it
Thanks again! What you’ve shown here is that even with the current lift I have, I can still upgrade that without having to switch out to a completely different lift kit altogether.
Excellent video,thinking of doing this lift on my jl Moab,also had same thoughts on adjustable track bar and rear relocation bracket(common sense)don’t know why Mopar does not include them,what was the purpose of the spacers,just for the added height or is there another reason
Thanks for the reply! Yes you’ll definitely be happy with the MOPAR.. the 3/4” spacers were just a cherry on top.. if I was going any different I would be doing metal cloak, Clayton, or rock krawler pro-x... I didn’t want to exceed 3” because I knew that would cause the flood gates to open for other accessories 🤦🏼♂️💸.. 2” to 3” is safe and practical for most any situation my JT will be going. No just trying to figure out 35 and stick with the 4.10s or 37’s and regear to 4.88
Gator_Overland I just purchased the Mopar two inch lift,the directions say the front spring should bow outward,should I be concerned,do your doings bow?
Thanks for the great video. I'm buying a 21 Gladiator Rubicon and my Dealer is offering a lift, wheels and tires through DSI that will be warranted as factory. I was very excited about this idea but they don't want to use the Mopar kit because they say it only lifts a JT Rubicon 1/2". I want this setup but I'll probably pass on the offer (even though I can fold it into my payment) and go with the Mopar or the Icon stage 4. How can I convince them?
They are incorrect for sure.. im not familiar with DSI.. I’m for both lifts you suggested.. the icon stage 4 is the kit I was waiting for and is the most equivalent to the kit I put together. I got 3” front and 2.75” rear out of my MOPAR+dayStar combo, so what ever they are saying about lifting only 1/2” is incorrect .. I just completed a 2500mile round trip overlanding route from Texas To Colorado and I’ll be honest, despite the greatness I would expect from the icon, I can vouch that my MOPAR combo was probably the most comfortable of more than a dozen trips I’ve done to Colorado over the passes years. Just do your research, be confident, and buy once, cry once.. check out my Instagram @gator_overland for current picture and off-road clips.. let me know if you have any other questions.
Great vid and very informative! Would you have a list of the items you purchased (cost)? Looking for a similar look and performance with my vehicle as well.
You bet man, check the video description, I have links to everything and the final cost. It works out to the same as your all in one kits like icon stage 4 (highly recommend as well), teraflex, synergy, etc. check out my insta @gator_overland for off-road video footage. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the reply, My drop box is being difficult today. Shoot an email to hawkijon@aol.com and ill shoot over the PDF. I hope to have the dropbox issue resolved soon.
Hey Man, So I decided to finally get my steering gear box replaced and then dealer found some issues with my drag link bar & tie rod. So I had to come back to your video to see what adjustable trac bar you were using and the other components. I’m using a teraflex adjustable trac bar but it’s moving around make noise the bushings are shot. I’m probably going to do what you did here...ps I got muted in the group
Man, I hate to hear that you’re having those issues… Yes, I have 17,000 miles on the set up and still solid as a rock! I just got the TSB done last week and it made a hell of a difference. What does getting muted mean !? 😂
Hey I did your exact recommended kit and went from 33" to 35" AT3's on stock rims, its getting an alignment now and the shop is saying it needs spacers as tires are rubbing. Did you do spacers ? if so which ones?
I’m not sure what trim model you have or where it is rubbing… If you have less than a sport s with max tow, the axles aren’t as wide and might be an issue with rubbing. It’s the first I’ve heard of it.
@@GatorOverland I have a rubicon. I let the shop center the front axle it was only 1” off and do the alignment. I pick it up in an hour and I’ll see how bad it rubs
That might have something to do with it. You shouldnt have any worries with a rubicon.. I don’t rub even at full flex steering lock to lock on stock wheels with 37’s.. Feel free to contact me anytime to discuss your install. Make sure they adjusted the draglink to re center your steering wheel.. if it’s off too much it will throw a code and put you in limp mode and limit engine power until you adjust it properly.
Absolutely! 17k miles of smiles on this configuration and no regrets! It proves itself comfortable on road and more than capable off-road. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
I been looking at this lift kit, (got my Gladi two days ago)thanks for mentioning the other parts needed. I would’ve imagined it was just the included parts being that it comes from Mopar. Would this work for the Willys edition? Great video!
Absolutely!! You bet! Actually I’ve got an group friend that just installed this on his willys! Loves it! Check out Douglas Watson on Jeep Gladiator Facebook page. Or better yet contact me personally and I’ll forward you photos. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
@@GatorOverland I don’t have Facebook, but I’m already following on Instagram. I’m a fellow Texan, looking forward to taking this beast on some trails alongside my mountain bikes.
Hey hey! A MTB friend! I might have to get some locations from you in the future. Shoot me your insta handle and I’ll forward you some willys pics with my lift rec’s installed
That’s a good question.. cost is the main reason.. adjustable rear TB would have been my second choice. Leaving it stock would have been a bad choice. You Can’t go wrong with either upgrade as long as its realigns your axle properly while at level elevation.
@@GatorOverland Another benefit of the bracket is it lessens the angle of the track bar, so there's less of a shift side to side though suspension travel. Definitely noticeable on older jeeps.
Absolutely! Couldn’t agree more.. I just completed a 2500 mile over landing trip from Texas to Colorado, and I’ll be honest, I’ve driven to Colorado many times over the years and this was one of the most comfortable I’ve been… I run 37 inch tires At 28 psi… Literally driving a cloud...BUT, the 5-6% grades did reveal the need for a regear. Fortunately I’m a SETX flatlander, so regear isn’t directly necessary, but is forecasted. I’ll probably go 4.88 as I don’t tow much, if at all. Thanks for the comment.
Lift kits in general do not constitute the regear… The Regear is only necessary if you resize your tires to a larger size then stock. As seen in the video the truck doesn’t look terrible with this lift configuration and the stock 33” tires. Why should regear be considered? the 8spd on the gasser truck is pretty resilient and good at keeping the rpms where they need to be but these trucks are heavy by comparison of past jeeps and only pushing 285hp/260ftlb torque on a good day at sea level. For the diesels @ 442ftlb of torque it is not directly necessary to regear after tire size increase because the power/torque is generated low in the RPM range, vs. a gasser that relies on RPM for power/torque. Think of a 10speed bike... from a stop try going up a hill on speed 8,9, or 10.. it takes a lot of effort and puts stress on the pedals and crank to even pedal a few revolutions to get going.. drop it down to 1,2, or 3 and it becomes effortless to do the same work but your but your revolutions have increased. It’s the same concept in your axles and driveline. If you lift and increase tire size without regearing it’s still possible to function, but your truck will be working like the bike on speed 8,9,or 10.. how hard do you want your truck to work? (I.e. you wouldn’t buy a 1spd beach cruiser bike to go trail/mountain biking) If your concept of a regear is for fuel economy, then you need to understand a regear is for driveline relief, and the potential fuel economy increase is a bonus. I went 5.13’s after a year (20k miles) of running 37’s with the stock 4.10 gears and at 65-70 mph I averaged 16-18mpg @72mph or below, but my low end torque was done and so was use of 6th gear (manual). I now average a steady 18mpg even loaded down with gear at the same speeds and have regained my torque and use of 6th gear. No regrets going 5.13, especially in 4low, it’s seemingly effortless wheeling. If you go 35’s and don’t plan on going bigger 4.10 will be fine across most of the United States.. 4.88 would be optimal.
Thanks for the reply Eric! I believe all the additional parts are include in the TH-cam description, but In the case it’s not displaying , shoot an email to Hawkijon@aol.com and I will send you everything you need.
JT MOPAR 2” lift: 77072468AB RockKrawler rear track bar relocate bracket: RK07360K Rancho front arm geometry relocation bracket: RS62118B SteerSmarts track bar front: 75048001 SteerSmarts drag link with griffin attenuator: 78089002 MOPAR fox damper: 77072360 DayStar 3/4” level spacer: DAYKJ09191BK
Finally found someone as OCD as myself. I can feel it when my spare tire is out of round 😉 The attention to detail is what makes all the difference
Absolutely… Doing a little bit of research always goes the distance… Happy to share… Thanks again
Thank you, thank you I knew the Mopar kit couldn't be good enough
It is good enough as is, but this makes its the way it would be to account for bigger tires and heavier off-roading
Hey man,
Just want to thank you for the awesome write up. Just took delivery of my 2021 JTR Gladiator this past Tuesday 10/27/2020. Your set up is exactly what I just installed... and I must say the additional components completely complimented the 2” Mopar Lift. Thanks again!
Hell yes!! Thanks for the follow up! I’m just paying it forward bud. You’re already a step ahead with the 2021 as it’s equipped with the new steel steering box, which was the answer to the JL and JT’s (including mine) with the loose steering. Mine actually improved when I installed the suspension and steering components. I just completed a 2500 mile overlanding trip from Texas to Colorado and I have to say.. I’ve driven to CO many times over the years and this was the most comfortable vehicle I’ve driven.. and it’s a boss on the pass’... if you haven’t found me on Instagram, see @gator_overland for pics and video.. I hope you enjoy your JT as much as I enjoy mine.🤘🏼
When you said you didn’t want to give up the ride quality that song “ Never gonna give you up “ came to mind 🤣🤣🤣.
Excellent! Detailed technical explanation and a great teacher. You answered many questions that I still had after watching many other TH-cam videos on lilts. Also thanks for not drowning out your explanations with too loud music. You got a new subscriber.
You bet man! Thanks for the reply and the sub. More content to come soon.. this stuff is expensive when sponsors aren’t slinging you parts 😂
Good job. Very thorough video. I have the Mopar 2 inch lift but didn't know about all these other items to keep things straight. I have to check for crab walking look etc. My jeep tracks very scary on the highway with a crosswind. Might have to get these relocation kits. And do it the right way. Great job
I just the Mopar 2 inch lift as well. I also didn’t know about all these other upgrades. What I do have is the Fox Steering stabilizer which made a night and day difference with crosswinds and tracking.
@@Crewmember7 i have to do something. It's pretty scary with crosswinds. Makes it exciting though lol
Just want to say thank you so much for providing this video. Tbh, I almost went with a higher end Teraflex kit, but decided the Mopar lift kit for my JLU Rubicon Manual, plus the extra parts will be more than enough for the occasional off roading I'll be doing. Only change was going with the Steersmarts Adjustable Rear track bar since the Rock Crawler Relocation Brackets were on back order.
Absolutely… TeraFlex is still a great kit. The best value for Strength, and adjustability all in one kit is Rusty’s.. I just rolled 20,000 miles on my lift configuration… Loved everyone one of them..
@@GatorOverland True, but any lift especially with a reservoir has to be rebuilt every so many miles which can cost a lot and require you to take everything out. They look nice and do their job, but not at this time at least. Yes, the Steersmarts products are very well built and durable. I plan to keep them on for awhile.
Contact Andy Perry with steersmarts… He is a wealth of knowledge
Yes sir , I'm very love this car .
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thank you so much . I have been on the fence about the mopar 2” lift. Your video helped me decide to go ahead . John T.
Absolutely!! I have just shy of 20k miles of smiles on this lift configuration and no regrets.
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
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Excellent information! You demystified much of the lift/spacing process which was the most helpful for me! Many Thanks and Enjoy
Thanks for the reply. I’m glad I could help you out. Let me know if you have any questions!
I went with this set up on My JL - the only thing I did not add is the spacer I’m running on 35s so I’m fine I also added the sector Shaft reinforcement from Synergy and OH BOY it makes a difference. Thanks for this video it really help me out with my Jeep
You bet man! Thanks for the reply. Sounds like you have a great set up. I have the brace still sitting in the box on my bench. I wanted to see how much improved the suspension and steering was before I bolted that on. Honestly it’s not terrible, but there is room for improvement. I’m awaiting my steering TSB steel steering box upgrade to arrive and be installed.. apparently it’s an incredible difference over the 2020 aluminum steering box. If I feel that it’s still a bit sloppy I’ll install the synergy brace. Check us out on Instagram @gator_overland for pics and off-road video clips. I’d like to see your set up as well.. enjoy your jL bud🤘🏼
Excellent - this walkthrough was a fortuitous find! I Googled Gator Gladiator 2” Lift with 35” tires so I could ogle and ended up here. I’m waiting till they throw the diesel in the JT and your JT will be my new baby shortly thereafter. I was researching lifts and had settled on the Mopar as all I want is 35’s on the stock rims ‘high and tight’ as you call it. New to Jeeps and lifting correctly (Coming from the Yota world), so this was a super helpful learning experience. Thanks again!
This is awesome to hear! Thanks for taking the time to reply.. you and I have the same mindset. I come from a history of Chevy trucks and jeeps..you may find this hard to believe, but this is the best truck I’ve ever owned.. after the ultimate MOPAR lift, an even better truck that I ever owned..it’s not powerful by any means, but it gets the job done, plus tip.. so..... enjoy your JT bud.. you won’t regret it... even coming from a yota..
Gator_Overland Quick question on the Steer Smarts Drag Link - I’m assuming it the bottom mount version you used? The description says its only suitable for a minimum of a 4” lift. Either I’m not finding the correct one, or this isn’t an issue? www.northridge4x4.com/part/drag-links/78089002-steer-smarts-yeti-xd-draglink-bottom-mount-w-griffin-xd-red-bellow - Already have our first overlanding trip planned through Colorado for next summer - can’t wait!
Nate Johnson Yes sir, I am very much a bottom mount… Next summer is our plans for Colorado as well… My email address is Hawkijon@aol.com .. I would love to share information with you about locations in the case that we have similar plans… Imogene pass? Engineer pass? Blackbear pass? Ophir pass? Telluride? Grand Junction?… The list goes on..
Gator_Overland Pretty much all of the above. Planning the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route. I’ve done a large portion of it by Motorcycle, and believe most of it is achievable on 4 wheels with some detours to places like the Black Canyon etc. Take as much time as needed, see the sites, take lots of pictures, and camp along the way - ridebdr.com/cobdr/
Nate Johnson you’ve just met a friend.. curious what bike and locations you recommend in that area, or anywhere for that matter .. I ride but, but my brother is on the scope for an Rockies ride..
Easily one of the best videos on JL's I've seen. And yes I subscribed. Traded my 2017 Rubicon Unlimited in for a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon. Ordered mopar life and will now order some of these other parts as an add on. Next time I drive through Texas, I'm coming by your shop.
That’s Awesome to hear! Thanks for the kind comment! You’ll love your configuration. I just completed at 2500 mile round trip overlanding route to Colorado.. honestly it was the most comfortable of over a dozen trips I’ve driven to Colorado, On And off-road... you’ll be more than impressed.. the shop is my buddies. check us out for photos and video clips on our Instagram @gator_overland
@@GatorOverland
That's the kind of buddies I wish I had!
🤣🤣
😂😂.. same thing goes with pools and boats.. my friends have those too.. they take care of all the maintenance 😂😂
Whoop! Fightin’ Texas Aggie Class of ‘99 here - Just bought a new Gladiator and having Lithia install the Mopar lift kit today. Can’t wait!!! Thanks for the video! Gig ‘em!
Whoop! Thanks for reaching out! We have 61k miles of smiles on the configuration and love it more everyday! Welcome to the gang! It’s brought us a lot of cool places between Colorado and Utah .. if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out.. jkhartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland Love Colorado…lots of beautiful trails up there…
I asked about whether the Mopar kit needed an adjustable track bar since it doesn’t come with one and was told since it’s only a 2” lift, it doesn’t need one. I didn’t really understand why the lift height only being 2” negates needing the adjustable track bar to keep the axle from moving around off-center…any ideas about that?
2 inches lift is that the threshold of requirement adjustable trackbar. Personally i would suggest looking into it for peace of mind, especially if you’re putting on bigger tires and/or plan on any off-roading. I’m not sure if you have already brought it in for installation, but it would be smart to do some before and after measurements… If you send me an email, I can forward you those to knock out before dropping it off. Because of the track bar as the suspension doops, the axle shifts to the driver side, when lifting your relocating to Suspension in its natural state further down, which inevitably move the actual over. In some cases this is minimal, but being this lift is one spring rate for all gladiators some will lift 2 inches (rubicon), and lighter models will lift between 3 and 3 1/2 inches (non rubicons).. because of this unknown variable, it is a shot in the dark of how far your actual shifts, and the further it goes the more bind you put on your control arms. more bind equals excessive wear and potential premature failure of parts. I’ve had over 100 people reach out to me with positive feedback from installing these components… I promise it will not “steer” you wrong. The Mopar lift is a gateway lift… It is totally capable to do anything you want to do, but the more you upgrade the more strength needs to be added.. I Steer smarts has given me a discount code now, so if you consider a track bar you can get 10% off GATROVRLD_SS
Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Just finished doing this “kit” on my JT ecoDiesel and love it! Thanks for the video and the research!
Awesome!!! So great to hear! You make 23rd person to contact me with great feedback!
Another great and informative video John!!! I really appreciate all the information you shared and you explanation, as I myself am contemplating my exact setup. Your truck looks AWESOME!!! Keep up the great work!!!
A really great video. You're a talented mechanic and an excellent presenter. I've recently gotten into the Gladiator and really considering getting one. Keep up the great videos.
You bet man! These videos are for people like yourself. I was you, this time last year. Let me know if you have any questions. I know you’ll enjoy your JT
Nice video and write up. While I haven't lifted ours yet, the first thing I installed was a winch and the Synergy Manufacturing front track bar and sector shaft brace in anticipation of adding a lift at a later date. The bracket made a huge difference in the wandering that is often noticed, especially in the cross winds on I-10 headed to CB. I've looked at several lifts, but keep coming back to the Mopar lift since it is designed by the Jeep engineers, and I don't plan on running anything larger than a 35" tire anyway. So, the lift is next on the upgrade list. Thanks for all the detailed part numbers.
Thanks for the reply! My synergy brace is in a box on the back seat. Currently I don’t think I need it, but have it on standby when 37’s are installed for peace of mind. Currently I feel like I’m driving a cloud that tracks like it’s on a set of rails!🤘🏼
What a great video and explanation of important considerations!
Thanks bud.. I appreciate that.. the concept carries over to any brand of any lift..
I have a Gator color Gladiator Sport S. Installed the Rock Krawler 3" Max Travel lift, bought longer Fox 2.5" shocks, and run 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers. The suspension rides just as nice, if not better than the factory. Just know that 37" tires are a lot heavier and harder than the factory tires. They will not absorb some of the road imperfections as well, and will transmit that feedback into the cab. But it's not a game changer. I would never go back to the factory look. It looks tough, and I get a lot of compliments!
Thanks for the reply!! You have the ultimate suspension my friend. It was between my hybrid build in the video, the RK 3" pro-x or Clayton off road. I didnt want to exceed 3" or 37" tires. From what i gather RK comparatively among reviews of people like yourself, RK is the most comfortable on the road, but it comes at a cost. Depending on what tire i go with, i will chalk test to find the ideal PSI for full road contact, which should also achieve a bit more softness at the same time. My tires came from factor at 47psi.. they chalk tested at 33psi. It make an incredible difference on an already comfortable ride. I guess we will see what comes. Thanks again for the reply! Enjoy your JT!!!
Never ever skip again. Grown ass men should not be skipping...lol
Yes I believe you’re right in most cases… But at least I know you watched all the way in to the end… And for that it was worth the comment…😂🤘🏼
Thank you for the time and effort in making this video.
Absolutely, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Let me know if you haven any questions.
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Awesome video, amazingly detailed & informative. Thanks
You bet man! I’m 1500 miles in and have no regrets.. it looks great and drives even better..
Nice videos man!
I actually watched you when you installed your Leitner ACS.
Very cool! Thanks for that comment.. leitner pods going in this week! Love that rack !
Excellent job on this video! The JT looks great! Thinking of getting one myself. And with the 6-Speed!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Just rolled 22k miles of smiles, and 15k of those are on this lift configuration, and I’ve had no issues or regrets with anything. Love the ride both on and off road. Feel free to ask any questions, I’m happy to help.
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Great video, this is the lift I’m looking at also.
Thanks for the reply! You wont regret it. Im absolutely satisfied with the outcome both appearance and the ride. The research paid off.
That bump stop is an issue as I saw another channel complain about installing it, they used a strap wrench to hold it.
Looks great. Love the gator green
Thanks! 30k miles of smiles now! Love the ride !
Thanks and Gig em 👍🏻! Getting a gladiator for family adventures and wanted information on this lift.
Thanks for the reply! I’ll have more content soon. I absolutely love this truck! I thought it would be hard coming from a full size. I haven’t looked back! Feel free to ask any questions! Enjoy your JT!
Would be nice to have seen a before and after side by side picture
Find me on Instagram and or Facebook.. I’ll send you the before and after.. unfortunately you can’t send photos via. TH-cam
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New sub as of today, and I want to thank you for doing such a GREAT review and upgrade to your Gladiator. Funny thing is, I went to my local tire shop just yesterday and was asking the very same questions you covered here. I too am not interested in building a monster truck, especially because I have the "Launch Edition" but I hate the way it tracks...it's not horrible, but it is irritating all the same. I don't dare take my eyes off the road for more than a couple seconds as I will be changing lanes!
You have put together a package that I'm sure will be perfect for me and what I plan on doing with my "first Jeep" ever!!!
I can't thank you enough..👍👍👍👍
You bet man.. I owe most of the research to a fellow group member that is a MOPAR tech and owns a Gladiator as well.. this is M.O... and has cured many JK and JL alike for wandering and death wobble.. check out a group member Brandon Richard’s TH-cam tewl talk for another option to fix the steering.. you may consider this before spending a lot of money. th-cam.com/video/zhKySwEXhGY/w-d-xo.html
There is a "no questioned asked" Technical Service Bulletin to replace the steering gear simply on customer request. Corrects pulling and wandering. That, with the caster increase of most lift kits make the JT one of the truest tracking Jeeps ever!
Couldn’t have said it better!! Thanks for the comment.. currently waiting on my TSB box to come in
@@erichconnally5643
I did contact my dealership, "Walnut Creek Jeep" (San Francisco Bayarea)
and these guy's ROCK!!!
I called and told them about this bulletin that they had not yet known about at that time and the service manager told me they would check into it and get back to me...15 minutes later, I got that call along with, "we've ordered all the components for the steering box" when would you like to come in?
NOW THAT IS HOW TO RUN A DEALERSHIP!!!
I made an appointment, rented a Bad-Ass Challenger, picked up my Gladiator the next morning, and all I can say now is....O.M.G.!!
My baby drives like a Cadillac...
I had this done in August, and it's is truly a pleasure to drive!
I have since contacted them regarding the Mopar 2" lift, but need to gather more information before I pull the trigger!
For those having this "wandering" issue with their Gladiators, DON'T HESITATE..GET IT REPLACED!
Cheers,
Razor!
Now that’s what I’m talking about!! Thanks for the follow up bud! Enjoy your JT! I have a few pics posted on my Instagram Facebook of our recent overlanding trip to Colorado .. @gator_overland or John Hartel
Real nice truck. Ya very lucky to own it. Roll on. Good video
Thanks bud. I have to work hard to afford it, but it’s worth it if you like to wheel without worries. I absolutely love it
Thank you so much for putting this together! SUBSCRIBED. 👍✌️
You bet, thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
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@@GatorOverland Thanks! If you have a chance, can you please give me a rough measurement of how much the Rancho geometry brackets hang below the OEM bits? I travel rocky trails with ledges occasionally and wonder how much clearance I'd lose. Thanks again for the information and video.
It hangs down just shy of the same amount of the rear lower control arm hanger… from the bottom of the frame it’s 2”.. if you don’t have Facebook or Instagram, shoot me an email at hawkiJON@AOL.com and I will send you photos and videos for reference… I haven’t had an issue with it on the rocks off road.. There has been contact, but it’s only been on descending drops
Dude! 1st off, I didn't know that about lifts! Thank you@. Second: OUCH! Your knees! Don't hurt yourself!
Thanks for the reply! Yessir a lot of folks are unaware of the suspension dynamics and alignment issues when they lift a vehicle. What did I do to my knee?
@@GatorOverland It's awesome that you reply. Thank you and I'll keep watching. In the beginning of the video you are sitting on the box and your knees are scuffed up like if you were kneeling to unload the box or take off a tire or something on a rough surface. I'm older and I wish I had better taken care of my knees :)
SKOHC ahhh i got ya!! Yes, that is just dirty shop floor.. you can the broom and pile next to the table. Welding goes on in there often and make for alot if grinding dust. I can get dirty working on a brand new car in there sometimes. Yes, I try to reply to all my comments.
SKOHC ahhh i got ya!! Yes, that is just dirty shop floor.. you can the broom and pile next to the table. Welding goes on in there often and make for alot if grinding dust. I can get dirty working on a brand new car in there sometimes. Yes, I try to reply to all my comments.
SKOHC ahhh i got ya!! Yes, that is just dirty shop floor.. you can the broom and pile next to the table. Welding goes on in there often and make for alot if grinding dust. I can get dirty working on a brand new car in there sometimes. Yes, I try to reply to all my comments.
I just did 37s on stock jl rubicon wheels with 1.5 wheel spacers and 1.5 terraflex spacers in front and daystar .75 in rear. 410 gears in the 8 speed I'm in 7th and 8th all the time.
Nice! I see 6th in my manual if I drive over 75mph, Drifing over 72mph I’ve found my fuel eco suffers drastically. I currently get 16-18 .. if I go 75+ it’s 12-14mph.. the engine Efficiency of that engine can’t overcome the wind resistance from lack of aerodynamics. If I lived somewhere hilly (no SETX flatland) if bet it would suffer further and I’d see 4th and 5th more
@@GatorOverland I do have it programed for the 37 tires.
Good deal! That will guarantee optimum shift points and the long life of the trans. 🤘🏼
Great video! Well done! Parts links would be a nice touch. Thanks
Thanks for the reply.. considering the available parts and business operating during covid I had to settle with a few prices a bit higher than the lowest I could find, but still managed to save about $500 from list price items.. my ultimate MOPAR system ran me $2450, but could have been $200-$300 lower if I was able to order from companies that weren’t out of stock or were not shipping at the time of purchase. One audible option would be to sub for the basic steer smarts drag link to save $300 or opt for the synergy trackbar bracket with sector shaft brace and save you near $500.. i have the brace sitting on my bench for when I get bigger tires just for piece of mind, but at this time it’s not needed, we are straight as an arrow down the road with minimal wondering (mostly due to wind).. all in all.. I highly recommend this franken-kit.. I just rolled 1200miles since install and have enjoyed every one of them.. let me know if you have any other questions. Enjoy your JT!
Great informative video! Thank you!
You bet! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! Let me know if you have any questions!
I would like to schedule an appointment to bring my JK over have its lift installed. :)
😂😂🤘🏼.. that’s hilarious.. I drink anything cold! Or atleast cowboy cold!
Great video, would have loved to see the install. Why both the trackbar relocation bracket in the rear AND the adjustable trackbar. Wouldn’t the adjustable trackbar be enough?
Hey mark, thanks for the reply! Yes it was unfortunate that my Bluetooth was on during recording and when you open the vehicle door Apple car play connects to the phone and stop anything going on currently with the phone..including recording. I only did an adjustable track bar in the front. The rear is a relocation bracket that allows you to use the stock trackbar. I could have gone the adjustable route in the rear, but the rear suspension function isn’t as critical as the front (no steering) so the relocation bracket with the stock trackbar will suffice. They recenter the axles between the frame rails after lifting, which is a critical dynamic to maintain to ensure proper on road handling. Let me know if you have any other questions. Check out my channel as I have other installs you might find helpful. My insta is @gator_overland if you want to see some off-road footage
You use the term crab walk. That only happens when the rear axle is farther or closer to the front axle
on one side or the other. If they are exact it will track straight no matter how far one wheel is out from the
front. You would just have one wheel sticking out farther and the other in the same amount.
You are correct, my reference of terminology is inaccurate… I should’ve used more emphasis on offset than crab walk… this instance after lifting should as you said will track straight, but the axles will be out of alignment from the center. That’s the point I was getting at.. thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Love your Jeep! Great videos and super informative. On the other hand, that’s a awesome Yota! Don’t tell me if has a factory turbo in it....
Thanks for the reply! Yes it does have the factory 22R turbo 4cyl in it. Eat your heart out Marty Mcfly!
Installed the 2 inch lift with 37s. Had it aligned but I'm experiencing some shimmy in the steering wheel that usually happens starting around 40 mph. I went with front and rear adjustable track bars .
I’m sorry to hear that! I’d be happy to give you my best insight if you contact me outside of TH-cam.. you’re the 28th person to contact me about their install and the 2nd to have shimmy, he what’s his installed by a dealer and we quickly found it was an big install error on their part.
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Want to do my MOPAR 2.5 on my diesel Gladiator Rubicon??? Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… If you have any questions, shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Looking GOOD 👌
Thanks for the reply bud! The ride is incredible!
Can you give a list of the additional items needed that were ,not in the box ?
Thanks for taking the time to watch and reach out. 80k strong in this configuration. It’s all listed in the video description.
JT MOPAR 2” lift: (JTgas3.6)77072468AC (JTdiesel) 77072469AC or 77072468AD ‘23 (JLUGas3.6) 77072395AE (JLUdiesel) 77072399AE
New bilstein mopar
(JT Gas) 77072468af (JTDiesel) 77072469af
RockKrawler rear track bar relocate bracket: RK07360K (or opt for rear adjustable trackbar to avoid drilling holes)
Rancho front arm geometry relocation bracket: RS62118B amzn.to/3TM5AZ2
(10% off steersmarts use GATROVRLD_SS)
SteerSmarts track bar front: 75049001
SteerSmarts drag link with griffin attenuator: 78089002
MOPAR fox damper: 77072360
*2021 & newer ONLY* pass. damper carriages bolt for fox/MOPAR shock: 6510774AA
DayStar 3/4” level spacer: DAYKJ09191BK
RockJock Carrier bearing drop spacer www.northridge4x4.com/part/rj-151402-101-rockjock-driveshaft-carrier-bearing-drop-kit
Good video man!
Thanks for the reply! I hope it was more informative in the least . Enjoy your JT.
You should have marked all of your bolts so you know if they are moving after 50/100/500 miles. Its easier to check this visually since all bolts touched will have this marking.
That is a very valuable bit of info. I purchased a paint pen just for this reason. I could have done it after initial tightening, but I planned to do the marking after my first 500 torque check (which will probably be this weekend) and then recheck every 3000 after that, and visibly inspect every time before and after an off road adventure.
John, thank you so much for sharing your research and this very detailed video with us! It is so informative!
Quick question: Where can one find the specified torque settings for each bolt and nut, so that one can tighten them correctly? :)
It’s all in the MOPAR kit, and specified on the other upgrades nomenclatue… But if you just shoot an email to JKHARTEL3@gmail.com I will forward you the one I have saved on my phone
@@GatorOverland Thank you for your reply and your time!
Hi. So did you do the CA brackets in place of the aftermarket LCA’s or in addition to ?
Hey! Thanks for the comment! The relocation bracket In addition to the provided MOPAR LCA’s.. the MOPAR kit calls to be within a range of 4.5° caster (+/-) 1° which is outside of the 5 to 7° caster that is ideal for these trucks.. the Lower control arm provided in the kit is only 1/8” longer then the factory LCA’s.. So by using the lower control arm relocation bracket and the provided lower control arm with the MOPAR kit… I am at 6.5° castor and track like I’m on a set of rails… The benefit of having your control arms parallel (near stock) is increased ride performance and handling on the road… But the caveat is rock trails and potential for getting hung up… I’ve gone on some pretty technical trails and not had an issue yet… Feel free to contact me on Facebook or Instagram for any other questions and pictures
m.facebook.com/JKHartel3
instagram.com/gator_overland?r=nametag
I have this lift on my JT. How would you go about getting rid of the rake?
Put a teraflex 1.5” leveling kit on the front.. game over
Informative, thank you
You bet man! Thanks for the reply! Let me know if you have any questions
So was thinking of the mopar 2 inch lift with steer smart front and rear track bar steering stabilizer level kit to get rid of rake and the steersmart steering box upgrade should that be all lol will be a 21 willys jl great vid
That’s going to be an incredible set up… If you are going to level, you will need a 3/4 to 1.5” level kit for the front only .. I did 3/4” front and rear to maintain my rake. Steer smarts steering box bracket is my next upgrade….. get with andy Perry of steer smarts. Super nice guy.. he’s on Facebook. If you find me on Facebook I will send you photos of a Willys with this exact configuration… The only thing I can say different is if you want a little bit more comfortable ride and better tracking on Highway to go with the relocation brackets… The extra amount that you will get from there leveling kit will Decrease the Caster angle and potentially make it wonder on the highway.. you can also go adjustable lower control arm in the place of the provided longer control arm from the Mopar kit… This will allow you to dial in your Caster angle, But your location of connection will still be at an increased angle so it will translate into a slightly less comfortable ride than going relocation bracket. Look me up, I’d be happy to help you with any questions you might have.
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Nice, does mopar make a lift for the Mojave that keeps the factory fox shocks?
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Unfortunately, no, the mopar kit is only applicable to non-Mojave gladiators… Mojave uses bigger 14mm shock bolts instead of 12 mm shock bolts. There are plenty of companies out there now that are making shock extension brackets for the Mojave and will work with 2 to 3 inch lift. If you want to maintain the stock ride, you can do a simple coil spring spacer lift like AEV offers and comes with everything necessary
amzn.to/3raFXWf
There are other budget, friendly options like rusty, off-road, spring spacer, but they sell the extension brackets separately.
This is so boss!!
You bet your ass ol’ friend!! Good to hear from ya!
I have 2 fox shocks on the back of mine, so what do I do for the second shock not included in this mopar 2" lift kit? I have a new 2022 Jeep Gladiator mojave. Please let me know as I want to do the same lift.
I would consider the AEV lift for your Mojave. The MOPAR kit will not fit your application
Great video and excellent technical and useful information! I really appreciated the time and effort you took to list out everything you did and why. The only thing that I would like to know, which I didn't find in the comments below or in the video, was how long it took you to get this installed from start to finish. Was it a multiday project? I'm stationed in California, and the base has an auto hobby shop with lifts that I can use but, they don't allow overnight work, so your thoughts on how long a project like this takes would be helpful for planning purposes.
BTW... congrats on your wedding and I look forward to more content!
Thanks bud I appreciate the reply. I did the install by myself with mostly hand tools in about 6hours. (One hour was spent on the F’n bumpstops). if you have assistance you could probably do it in 3-4 hours.. I did the rear in 1 hour. Takes about 30 min to torque all the bolts at the end.
L ppl
Moo
BonesDT thanks for the reply! What does it mean?
Thanks for making the video. So it has been a few years, how do you like your setup now?
80k miles of smile and wouldn’t change a thing..🤘🏼🤝
@@GatorOverlandHow much lift did the Mopar lift net at the end for you? I park my Jeep in parking garages and height is a concern. My end goal is a well riding overlander as well. I will probably end copying your setup if the lift doesn't add 3 inches. I need more like 1.5 inch lift.
My lift yielded right at 3 inches above my stock height… The top of my truck is 75 inches with 37’s and should fit in most parking garages.. by building code They're generally 7 feet (84 inches) for ordinary parking spaces and 8 feet 2 inches (98.4 inches) for van-accessible spaces. You should be fine.. i’ve even managed some parking garages with my RTT on.
As far as ride goes, I have 80,000 miles of smiles and no regrets… Feel free to email me and I’d be happy to share info and pictures… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland Appreciate you! Will keep in touch!
Absolutely! Reach out via email jkhartel3@gmail.com
Does the 2" Mopar lift maintain the factory rake? I'm currently running a 1 1/2" leveling kit to eliminate the rake so my thinking is to install the lift springs with the leveling spacer to maintain no rake. I do like the drop brackets for the front control arms. Excellent video!
You are right on track… The Mopar lift is not a leveling kit lift… It is 2 inches in the front and 2 inches in the rear over the stock height… The factory rake is approximately 2 inches therefore you would have a near level truck after you installed the 2 inch Mopar with your current leveling kit… Enjoy your JT
Maybe I’m missing something here, but don’t you also need a relocation bracket for the track bar when installing the aftermarket drag link, to keep them parallel? Otherwise possible issues with bump steer?
In a perfect case scenario having all steering components as level as possible (0deg.) is ideal for steering, bumpsteer and tracking. The trackbar is designed with an offset curve attempt a more lateral connection from frame to passenger side axle, otherwise you would need a drop down bracket from the driver frame mount location and that would potentially come into contact with your axle and steering components with driver side compression (articulation flex). The drag link is currently at 7.5deg and is parallel with the trackbar @7.5deg. They were both approx 2.5deg before the lift. I personally don’t feel much if any difference than before if anything it feels better, but it definitely tracks better. You’re going to run into potential highway manner issues the higher you go (3”+) which is why it’s ideal to keep your lift as minimal as possible to keep geometry proper and a low’ish center of gravity. A comparable lift to what is in then system I put together would be the EVO overland option, which includes the geometry relocation brackets which is ideal for off-road driving comfort than rock crawling specific. If I was doing it differently I would consider the 2.5 icon stage 4, metal cloak, Clayton, Rock krawler pro-x, or previously mentioned EVO. All great kits with credible years of experience. The difference that separates them is what provides shocks. The MOPAR system, though lacking some essentials for comparable cost of a kit, has an incredible shock set. Check out my insta @gator_overland and you can see some off-road pics and video. In the end, do your research, and “buy once, cry once”
And you can’t go wrong. Just remember to get a legitimate alignment and chalk test your tires to guarantee proper inflation for highway tracking and comfort. Let me know if you have any more questions. Enjoy your JT.
One of the best vids on this topic I’ve seen. Thanks. What was the cost of the parts if you don’t mind answering.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I have part numbers listed in the TH-cam video description including what it cost me. Due to availability in early covid it was about $2400, but could do my exact components for $2000’ish if you shop competitively. Regardless what you pay, it’s worth every sent to do it right. I have 16k miles of smiles on the lift and about 300 of them are off-road.. this handles both on and off-road very well. Check us out on Facebook or Instagram. Id be happy to share info and videos with you.
th-cam.com/users/GatorOverland
instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
@@GatorOverland awesome. Thanks man, I’ll check out the links. The Gladiator is one of the vehicles I’m considering for my next rig and your mods with 35s is exactly what I would do. I like being able to not void the warranty by using Mopar lift. Amazing actually how good it looks with the lift and those wheels with the 33 in mudders- much better than it looks with the other available wheels and ATs. I look forward to checking out your other vids. Have fun out there! 🤙
You bet! I just recently did a trail adventure in the Texas hill country, which included some rock crawling. Needless to say I’m impressed. Also just to inform, installing a lift will not void your vehicles warranty, however, it can void the warranty of replacement parts directly associated with the lift components installed. It has to be proven to that the malfunction or premature failure is related. I.e. you’re starter or radio will still be covered if you install a suspension lift, regardless of brand. The advantage one gets of installing a MOPAR is a suspension upgrade specifically engineered for the vehicle and requires little to no additional components to be replaced, thus limiting the opportunity of failure. Fortunately most reputable aftermarket suspension lift companies warranty their lift parts. In the event of component failure, they would be liable for part replacement, not MOPAR/FCA. All I have to say is the MOPAR option is more than capable for what it’s worth, and I have the belly scratches to prove it. It’s exceptional on road and mild trails and mountain pass roads as well. I do recommend going with the beefy upgrades if you can swing it. I’ll have you know all these upgrades were told to me by a vetted off-roader and 20yr MOPAR tech from Maine. He’s been fixing death wobble and other lift brand associated issues with these components for years. Every modded show room vehicle get this install. He had this on his own JT and is wife’s new JL, and it’s all warranty approved upgrades. 🤘🏼
I wish i had bought the mopar kit but me being me,i just ordered kings adjustable shocks front and back and as of right now im saving up for a rock krawler pro-x kit but hey atleast have some parts saved up such as my 2 ton steering upgrade the king shocks i have and a front axle trus,some wheels and 35's and those babies are already installed cause they fit :D and a bunch of other goodies too :D,i cant wait until i racked up enough money for that rock krawler kit :D
I’ll be honest, the pro x was in my shopping cart at one point in time, but early year covid had them unavailable and then I can to terms with myself and knew i would never use the full potential of the kit and couldn’t bring myself to spend 5k.. so I chose the MOPAR with suitable upgrades to make it worthy both on and off road. The pro x is a great kit! Good luck with your build. Shoot a pic to my email hawkijon@aol.com
@@GatorOverland Yeah i understand too,since i offroad my jeep quite a bit i can already tell im gonna need that lift kit but even though my truck stock just with 35's it performs pretty good and im happy with the truck and it performs wayyyy better than my pretty heavily modified 3rd gen tacoma that i used to have but i traded it in and im glad i did cause it was just a money pit,i had kings all around including the bump stops from king in the back and it was pretty good but compared to my jeep it is just awesome,but yeah man i cant wait to lift this thing wich i probably will next year cause im really just want to save up for a regear as well and do all of that at once but yeah :Df
Totally understood.. welcome to the new money pit 😂😂
@@GatorOverland Yesiiiir 😂 and it already is lmao
When can I drop mine off??? 😂😂 Great video!!
Thanks! You won’t regret it! I you live near Houston Texas I’d be Happy to help😂
@@GatorOverland hello, I’m interested in your help, I just bought the 2021 Jeep Wrangler rubicon diesel, looking at your parts list, if I gather parts, I would love the help. I’m in kingwood, gig’em
Can someone help me figure this out? I have an ecodiesel sport. Installed mopar lift kit specific for ecodiesel and it only gave me 2" while everyone else is getting 3" and 3.5", I wonder why?
Different models are different weights and the yield is “atleast” 2”… if you want more at this point you can always add teraflex or dayStar spacers like I did.. my gasser rubicon yielded 2” as well (not including the spacers)
Part of my question was answer on towing. Hoping to maintain towing capacity . How to pick shocks for mid travel on your setup? /spring ?
Thanks for the reply. Any lift will affect towing capacity, as well as tires. This MOPAR kit was engineered specially for the gladiator and will maintain similar towing characteristics of the stock springs. Remember, the tow rating is mainly limited to heat generation which is tested at extremes (like towing in the mountains)… So just consider your conditions… If it’s flat then it isn’t a big deal. so, re-gear properly for increased tire size, keep the springs quality, and watch your gauges.
You said that 4.10's are very capable with 35's. Does that mean I don't need to regear to 4.56? My gas mileage is around 14 mpg. I haven't done the tuner/programmer yet. I like 35's, they fit underneath fine. The 37's won't fit. I don't want a spare on the bed. That's for my truck bed tent. I bought the 2" but I wasn't aware with the addition you've added on your suspension.
Hey! Thanks for the comment.
I have 37‘s with the stock 4.10 axles in the manual transmission… The 37‘s true measurement is 35 1/2 @30psi.
...with 35 inch tires you can expect to be about 33-34 inch true measurement .… That said, I do notice a little bit of decrease in acceleration performance, and my use of sixth gear has gone away almost entirely… The 5% & 6% grades in Colorado while loaded down with camping gear revealed the need for a regear. I will re-gear in the spring to 4.88 to optimize fuel economy (currently 16-18mpg as a southeast Texas flatlander) … I do not tow much, if at all with my truck… I would go 5.13 for torque priority over optimum fuel eco if I was towing with 37s. Its not directly necessary with 4.10’s but If you’re planning on not going bigger than 35 inch tires, to be optimal, you should consider 4.56, and if you tow, 4.88. If you do increase your tire size and you drive an automatic transmission, it is very important that you flash the computer for the tire change, so that your speedometer is accurate and your shift points or optimum… You can really damage the transmission if you don’t… Especially if you’re towing a load…
The ideal way to figure out what gear is best for your tire size is this simple math
Divide bigger tire size by stock tire size, and multiply that answer by the original gear ratio
37” (bigger tire) \ 33” (stock) = 1.1212
4.10 (stock gear ratio) x 1.1212= 4.5969
Which would be your ideal regear ratio. Though it is very close to the 4.56 gear options it’s better to round up to the next gear set, which is 4.88 to maintain near stock performance. Going 5.13 would give you torque priority for towing. ReGears or not, I’ve found driving over 72mph puts your fuel eco in the dumper regardless of tire size.
As far as 37’s go, most brands fit under the bed. BFG, and falken will fit for sure
Enjoy your JT
Want to make sure I understand, you got the adjustable track bars in order to recenter your axle, which I get. But what value are the relocation brackets? I think you said they bring the angles back to factory spec, and if you didn’t use the relocation brackets, what would have resulted besides a rougher ride? Would things wear out more quickly? Thanks in advance.
You have asked a very good question… the relocation brackets puts not only the caster angle back to factory spec which is 5 to 6 1/2°… But it puts the geometry angle of the control arms themselves near parallel to the ground… You can achieve the proper caster angle by investing in adjustable lower control arms, Which is fine, but by comparison of road comfort the relocation brackets will be more comfortable. Most rock crawlers will do adjustable control arms for clearance.. if you’re not rock crawling, the relocation brackets are the way to go for caster angle and comfort..
Got the mopar 2 inch lift, fox steering stabilizer and BFG KO2’s ordered. 1 more quick question mines the overland high altitude to level mine will it take the same spacer? The reason why I’m asking is I do know a rubicon comes 1 inch higher from factory so wasn’t sure if the same one would level mine :) im so so excited thanks so much for all the information you have helped me so much
Good morning heather. Believe it or not they are all the same ride height, Mojave does have a 1” higher ride height in the front. The aesthetic height difference comes from high rise fenders and taller tires. That’s why a 2” MOPAR yields at least 2” on every model less of a Mojave, lighter models are often yield 3” (can’t put a MOPAR lift on the Mojave because the shock bolts are different diameters).
All JTs are approx 1.5 to 2” forward rake. This is measured roughly on the bottom of the body to the ground just behind the front tire, and same part of the body just before the rear tire (not measuring fenders)
That said, you utilize a 1.5” teraflex spacer on your front 2”‘MOPAR spring if you want level. I’m 3/4” spacer front and rear which maintained my factory rake, but gave me additional 3/4” lift front and back. Contact me via Facebook or email as I have progressional photo of my friend truck who did exactly what you’re asking. I’m considering doing the same actually to counter the sag I got when I put on the winch.
John HARTEL or jkhartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverlandperfect!!!!! Thank you I will send you a email when I get off work. Thank you so so much again
@@JulyRobbins 🤘🏼
Hey John, just rewatched this. I have a lead on a 2" lift without the rear bump stops for $300, just 1,000 miles on it! Seriously considering it. Sounds to me like I would really need the relocation kits and the adjustable track bar, but could get away without upgrading other stuff? I would like to have the geometry right. I only have 33s on it now and they're pretty new so I'm a little concerned that it might look strange. In your video are those the 35s? Last question, do you know if the springs have the same spring rate as the Max Tow springs? I'd like to retain my payload rating if at all possible as it's a few hundred pounds more than the Rubicon. I don't know if that's related to the springs or if the Sport S with Max tow is just overall lighter than the Rubicon. I did add the front and rear steel bumpers after an accident, so my payload has already dropped due to those two items. Thanks as always for your contributions to the community and looking forward to some videos with the little one out on the trail with you!
Thanks again for reaching out… I feel that I can better explain this via text or email or in person… in my video I have 33s in factory.
Please shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
I got my Gladiator about 2 months ago with the intention of building an overland rig. I am very interested in the Mopar lift kit and felt like it was a good choice given that I can get it done through Jeep and keep my warranty all square. Would you advise against getting the lift kit done without the extras? I've watched a few other videos about this same kit and while yours is definitely the most in-depth, the others didn't have all the extras installed. I am very new to all of this (came from a Honda HR-V) and am still learning. I have the 80th Gladiator and was gonna keep the stock wheels on for now until they need to be replaced. I appreciate your feedback and your video!
Hey! Happy holidays! Thanks for the comment! Contact me via Facebook or Instagram and id be happy to go more in depth on exactly what you’ve asked.
facebook.com/JKHartel3
instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1g7l4dcl1dlms
Just bought the exact JT. Awesome vehicle so far. I may have missed it, but can you provide a list of the parts for this build? I’m looking to do the same, as I do mostly flatland riding with occasional rocks/big hills. Thanks -
You bet! You won’t regret it! Check the TH-cam description dropdown for links to everything. Here are all the model numbers if you want to search it yourself. Don’t forget to check northridge 4x4 use promo code LITE BRITE for up to 20% off ... it saved me almost $400 at my time of purchase. Let me know if you have any other questions. More install and off-road content coming soon. Check out my insta for off-road footage @gator_overland
JT MOPAR 2” lift: 77072468AB
RockKrawler rear track bar relocate bracket: RK07360K
Rancho front arm geometry relocation bracket: RS62118B
SteerSmarts track bar front: 75048001
SteerSmarts drag link with griffin attenuator: 78089002
MOPAR fox damper: 77072360
DayStar 3/4” level spacer: DAYKJ09191BK
@@GatorOverland
My only question is why did you not go with one manufacturer for all the steering components, track bar and brackets?
@@razorworks9942 To be honest, all these components were recommended by a veteran Mopar tech that has fine tuned the part application. The truth is, most suspension components among various manufactures have very little, if any differences when it comes to construction. I do prefer to have a uniform name when it comes to components, but thats where the line is drawn for Jeeps. Some mfg specialize in a look vs. function and vise versa. My steering components are of the stronger variety by comparison of others that come in a uniform brand lift kit. When it comes to jeep, hybridizing suspension components is a very common thing. Some jeepers may prefer the dynamic of the Rock Krawler Pro-X 3" lift with the triangulated 4 link (i do for sure) but have found the RK springs are not adequate for heavy towing and they choose synergy or other name brand springs that are ideal for towing. As long as you do you research, you cant go wrong.
@@GatorOverland
Really appreciate your feedback. It's very comforting speaking to someone who has the knowledge you do and not some kid telling me it's the best because his manager is pushing sales..
I look forward to speaking with you soon!
@@razorworks9942 you bet man! Likewise.. Im no pro mechanic and I’m fairly unbiased when it comes to this stuff because I actually use my vehicles more than a parking lot or a garage Queen, I don’t have the money for that. I do my research, inquire with others and commit.. if it doesn’t exist On TH-cam and it interests me, it’ll be on TH-cam soon after. If inform or help even one person then my time invested in producing my review is worthy.
Hey that was a good video. What was your caster at after you got done. By the way we have talked in the gladiator page on Facebook. I'm still not a fan of the front brackets hanging down. 😁 I just did the same lift today ,but went with 1 in terraflex spacer in front andv.75 day star on rear. On top of the mopar lift.
😂no one is a fan of the brackets.. but if you want it to be right go adjustable.. if you want it to be right and more comfortable go brackets.. if you want the most adjustability and comfort combine. Contact Me via Facebook I’ll shoot you my specs
Thank you for the content. I have the same exact Jeep, Gator, Rims, etc, but with soft top. I learned so much that I never knew about lift kits. I saw you were waiting for Icon, but jumped on this. What stage of Icon would you have done?
Hey bud! Thanks for the comment! Without a doubt 2.5” stage 4 would have been my choice. The icon became available about 3months after my install and I was happy to see all my upgrades were right inline with their upgrades. I have absolutely no regrets going the route I did. The truck is super comfortable and tracks very well. I do think I benefit from additional comfort by going with the front control arm relocation brackets. Though they are controversial for crawling they are more than acceptable for my wheeling style. Let me know if you have any questions. 🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland Just became a new subscriber today. My style will be a lot like yours, overland with a bit of medium rock crawl. I will remember the relocation brackets. I’ll check out the stage 4 as I want adjustable links as you mentioned. It is my daily driver. I want 37” Nito Grapplers with 18” Black Rhino Abraham’s rims. Will a 2.5” Stage 4 Icon be good for these tires. I don’t tow, but might regear to 5:13 as Bubba from Exodus 4x4 recommended it on his channel. Do you have a video on regearing yours? Couldn’t find one. I will have to hirer the work out. I’m new to off-roading and trying to learn as much as possible.
You’re right on track, Im southeast Texas, so I have to drive a lot of highway before arriving at ideal adventure destinations, so highway comfort is priority for me. The truck itself is more than capable of most any adventure in stock form, lifts are more increasing capability and obviously the cool factor. The concepts of both lifts are so similar. What you pay for in the higher end lifts is general domestic design and mfg (not imported) with premium internal component and material. That lift as well as many others will be perfect for that size and brand of tire. Surprisingly enough i talk to Bubba quite a bit. I will be using him for my gear install as well. I highly recommend you use a vetted gear installer. Unlike forgiveness on lifts, gears are very critical and require a sequenced break in over approx 500 miles.. I’m a manual and don’t tow, so I’ll be going 4.88 to be fuel eco priority. Contact me via Facebook messenger and I’ll provided more info an pics as well. Do keep in mind 37’s is an idea... my 37’s at 30psi are 35.5” tall. I’ll explain gearing math as well to you. I will be doing a video over my gearing and probably collab with bubba if all goes well.
facebook.com/JKHartel3
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Would this setup minus the daystar spacers be ok on the overland with 35’s on 18” stock wheels? Mainly driving to work in Houston with some beach driving and ranch driving. Once a year I drive up in north end of hill country to hunt a massive ranch with lots of rocky elevation. Great looking rig and the science nerd in me likes the specificity of how you explained things.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! Absolutely this setup is perfect even excluding the additional spring spacers. I only included the spacers because I didn’t want to exceed 3” lift for my own peace of mind to avoid any extensive upgrades like brake lines or front driveshaft replacement. At minimum I recommend the adjustable front track bar in general, it doesn’t have to be brand specific to my use, but stock is not ideal 2”+.. whether you consider the full kit recommendation or similar, I have no doubts that you love the on and off road performance. Contact me on Facebook or Instagram if you have any further questions
facebook.com/JKHartel3
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Being as you live in/near Houston, i live west of Beaumont near winnie. I have no problem meeting up for a test ride or discussion of upgrades and ideas.
How much to do a install on a 2022 gladiator rubicon?
Most shop rates are $150 an hour… Typically 3-5 hour charge..
If you’re asking how much the kit cost it would be up to you… Different outlets have different prices, but I did mine for about $2200 and installed it myself to save the money… It can easily be done in the driveway with minimal handtools… The only technical tool would be a torque wrench and you can rent those from an auto parts store
I am trying to go 35 or 37 on my new JT Rubicon EcoDiesel. But I am wondering if I go 37, if I need to regear from the current 3.73.
With the amount of torque that is developed down low in the diesel, it is not necessary to regear up to 37’s… Anything taller you will need to consider a regear.
Inversely, gasoline doesn’t develop its torque until high in the rpm range, which is why it requires a regear with just slight increase in tire size.
With a diesel, you typically regear one gear set down from the gasoline… For instance, if a gasser regear is 5.13 or 4.88 for 37’s, you would want 4.10 or 4.56..
I have a friend who is a Mopar tech and wheels really hard… He runs 40s on his diesel and did a axle swap from a gasser Rubicon with 4.10 gears and swapped over the steel knuckles… He gets 25+ mpg
.. it is ideal for you to calibrate the speedometer for the tires size increased. Not doing the calibration. Could damage the transmission especially if pulling a load..
Proper tire size input would be the distance from the ground to the center of the wheel multiplied by two .. * do not type in 37” for a 37” tire..
I.e. my BFG KO2 37s are 35.5 inches tall. The distance from the ground to wheel center is 17.25”.. 17.25x2= 34.5” .. 34.5” is my height input for my 37” tire.. it’ll be different for everyone..
@@GatorOverland Awesome. Thanks for the great info!
That’s what it’s all about! Happy to help
For those of us that might go this route, do you have the measurements of the Track Bar and Drag Link to get us in the correct ballpark before our alignment?
Billy Kirkpatrick that’s a good question. I will Need to add this to my PDF measurements I have available in my dropbox. But to answer your question directly, it’s approx 41.25” zerk to zerk for the draglink, and approx 34” Bolt center to bolt Center for the track bar. And as mentioned before, I did not touch the steering tie rod. It was adjusted by the alignment shop from the 7/32 set at factory back to 3/32
@@GatorOverland Thank you for the info. Greatly appreciated.
Billy Kirkpatrick absolutely bud! Enjoy your JT! I’m enjoying the hell out of mine. If you consider the system I put together you won’t regret it. I absolutely love it.
Wow what a wonderful and clear video thank you so much. I just bought my 2021 high altitude JT and new to the Jeep I’m wanting bigger tires and a lift kit so going with the Mopar I also want to keep my ride quality but I do have a question hopefully you can help me or someone :) I know yours is a rubicon so it’s different than mine do I need everything you posted here?
Hey!! Thanks for the comment! Everything in that kit I explained will work flawlessly with your high altitude. The may be a few difference in appearance and functionality between rubicon and high altitude but all the suspensions are the same when it comes to lifts, except for Mojave, and they just use bigger bolts on their shocks, so technically the MOPAR kit would work on that model too. Feel free to reach out if you have any question. I’m always happy to help. You would make 37th person to install this kit and contact me. The other 36 have let me know they are more than satisfied. I assume you’ll be sticking to more of the pavement side of lift with the high altitude. You can omit the draglink with griffin attenuator. That is a super upgrade and extra cost for those who don’t wheel. Don’t get me wrong you will notice a difference over stock but it won’t be as crucial for the overall functionality of the kit. The main focus is the trackbar for re-centering your axle, and relocation brackets for maintaining your caster angle (5-7 deg) and enhance your ride comfort. 🤘🏼
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
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Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland yep mostly pavement and gravel backroads maybe some lite trails thank you so much wow you are amazing.
You bet heather!! That’s what is all about! I’m confident you’ll enjoy this suspension setup. It will excel in comfort on road over stock and is more than capable off-road.. don’t hesitate to ask any questions .. I have video clips and photos available via Facebook and Instagram as well.. other “more complete/ all in one” lifts to check out are Rusty’s off-road 2” basic or advanced, Clayton off-road 2.5” or icon 2.5” stage 4.. rustys is the best value for us made craftsman’s shop and performance.. MOPAR is also a great option as well, you can’t go wrong as long as the track bar and control arms caster angle can be adjusted..
Hello, just a question but instead of relocating the rear track bar by drilling into factory components couldn't you just purchase and install an adjustable real trackbar? Thank you.
Thanks for your comment! To answer your question, absolutely! I went with the bracket to utilize the stock track bar as it should be sufficient for most any wheeling i do. Having the brute adjustable trackbar up front is ideal because of the additional movement and stress of steering. I the bracket is a budget move, but it put me 1/8” different from side to side, (damn near center).. an adjustable trackbar will allow you to dial in that 1/8” actual center if you wanted to. The advantage of the bracket is it puts the trackbar near parallel with the ground which is the nearer to stock angle, which is ideal for proper radial operations.. 😂 it wasn’t an easy choice, but they but do their job. Perfect case scenario if I had the money is combine both😉
Just confirming you did not replace the front upper control arms with adjustable version? If not, at what height would they be required? I have a Max Tow in Gator green and planning out my future lift: looking at 3” for 37s. Still trying to figure out how I can get it lifted and keep original rear tow springs. Excellent video and detailed enough to help others new to JTs understand the mechanics behind the Mopar lift.
Thanks for the reply!! Always good to hear from a fellow gator. To answer your question, all the control arms are stock except for the new front lower control arms provided with the MOPAR lift kit (they are approx. 1/8” longer than stock) Technically my “ultimate” kit will allow me to go up to 4” spring without going to adjustable components because of the control arm relocation bracket. Even if you went with a Clayton off-road, metal cloak, or rock krawler which have all adjustable control arms, you can still utilize the relocation bracket. In fact, with EVO, the relocation bracket is part of the “Overland” optioned kits. It’s kind of the best of both worlds, your stock geometry with full adjustability. Keep in mind I went MOPAR because of 2 reasons.. I could afford it, and I didn’t see needing anything more. BUT!! If money wasn’t an option I would highly consider Clayton off-road, metal cloak, or RK ProX. The downside is most any of the fully adjustable kits do not come with shocks which would be another $1000, which would be knocking on the $4000 mark. The system I put together was approx $2400, but could have gone for $200-$300 less if I had more patience. I have the synergy trackbar brace w/ sector shaft sitting in a box in my garage. I haven’t seen the need to install that yet, but will probably do it for peace of mind when I go 37. If you’re interested in adjustable kits, you should check out a friend of mines channel/instagram JT Mods. He’s going metal cloak and I’m excited to see how it performs. If you go MOPAR.. at minimum you need the front adjustable trackbar and rear adjustable trackbar or rear relocation bracket. These components will work up to 4” lifts if you decide to go that route. Shoot me some pics of your rig when your done @gator_overland
I forgot to mention you can go synergy, they use a spacer in the rear which would maintain your rear spring rate and towing capability… Remember when you lift a vehicle you change the towing dynamics… If I was going to be lifting with towing in mind I would definitely consider Clayton off road… They have a Triple rate rear springs that allow for flexing off road and bind up for proper towing characteristics.
Gator_Overland - So I finally installed the Mopar 2”, Daystar 0.75”, and Rancho Geo Brackets: exactly you. Remembering I have Tow Max with Rubicon D44 axles, my castor is now 7.7LF / 7.3RF. I used the Mopar 2” LCAs that are a little long, so wondering if I should put the OME LCAs back on to reduce the castor back into spec range. Appreciate any thoughts you may have on it. Thank you, Barry
Barry Hollis you definitely could. I used the middle hole (3” lift).. as long as your 5-8 deg you are golden.. too much caster will effect your drive shaft. I’d say your fine, or move it one hole up on the bracket. The MOPAR LCA’s are only 1/8” longer. I’d hate for you to replace it for no reason.
Gator_Overland - I am currently at the top hole to provide the smallest amount of positive castor. I was concerned, since the Mopar 2” instruction spec sheet states 4.80 +/- 1.00. Thank you for your time and insight, Barry
Good video, curious if you think it was worth getting the Rubicon and not the Sport S with max tow since you have already modified it?
Thanks for the reply.. an answer for your question can go many directions, but to answer it simply.. yes, it was worth it to me to get rubicon. I built both the sport s with max tow and the rubicon with the same options and it came to $90 a month more for the rubico .. The sway bar disconnect is a convenience but I don’t see it as the most valuable upgrade for a rubicon, it’s easy to make quick disconnects.. the value is I don’t have to install $2k worth of lockers, it has 4:1 crawl ratio and manual transmission with 4.10 gears.. you can’t get that in any other model. I don’t tow, so the 4500lb tow isn’t an issue. if I would get any other model it would be sport s with max tow in automatic to get 4.10 gears and 7650lb tow rating.
I first watched this about two years ago and ended up getting/installing the Mopar lift. All was well until recently as a slight shimmy is occurring after hitting a bump at about 50 mph. At this time I have added many of the aftermarket products you did with your install. I am now thinking of adding the control arm relocation bracket. Do you recall what degree of castor you had after the install? BTW great video. Thanks
Hey mark! Thanks for reaching out, I’m happy to help. I have 57k on this lift with no shimmy or issues, and even after quite a bit of hard wheeling...I’m at 6.5 caster with the relo brackets (ideal caster is 5-7deg, but 6.5 is the money maker)
A shimmy at 45-50 is probably and suddenly happening is probably steering damper (remove and see if you experience the same issue)
a shimmy can be from a number of things.
After modifying always get your alignment sheet
Things to check
-lug nuts
-Tire pressure (no more than door jamb psi)
-Wheel balance
-Alignment (0-3/32” toe in max) per factory spec, but steersmarts has proven 0.25deg per side toe out (0.50deg total toe out) to be the best after 2month closed course testing.
-Caster angle (5-7 degrees, ideally 6.5deg
-Loose or worn steering component (usually the track bar or other component touched during the install)
-steering stabilizer (rarely)
-steering box (early 2020 and older had an aluminum box that need to be upgraded to the new steel box per the TSB)
Photos help..
feel free to email me jkhartel3@gmail.com and we can take this further
@@GatorOverland thanks for the response and information. I have checked all joints, bolts and specs. Also, have upgraded components (including ball joints) as with your install excepting drag link attenuater, rear track bar and geometry correction brackets. I do have the Steersmart drag link. I’m going to try the geometry correction brackets next and wanted to make sure the caster will not go beyond 7 degrees when using the Mopar lift control arms in conjunction with the geometry correction brackets. I am also adding the steersmart sector shaft/track bar bracket. The rear track bar is next on the list. Thanks for the help.
If you use 3/4”-1.5” spring spacers you should be just on the margin of
@@GatorOverland this will be my next steps. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video 😀 Im about to install the same setup… Mopar + 3/4 front and rear. I was wondering if you had to install a new drive shaft? … Thanks 😊
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. 3.5” inch and smaller lifts do not directly require a driveshaft replacement for the front, however the rear you could consider a carrier bearing spacer. The rule of thumb is dropping approx. 1/4” per inch per lift inch (I.e. .25” x 3”lift= .75”, so near 1” spacer should be sufficient. I have 37k on this config without the spacer and haven’t seen any signs or issues of the rear shaft angle being too steep, but have considered it for peace of mind. See link below.. 4”+ lifts should be fully adjustable and definitely recommend front driveshaft replaced because of max angle on the stock rzeppa joint on the t-case, especially when flexed or full driver side droop. Keep in touch, let me know if you have any questions about the install… I’m always happy to help… Feel free to send photos to me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com or find me on Facebook facebook.com/JKHartel3
www.northridge4x4.com/part/rj-151402-101-rockjock-driveshaft-carrier-bearing-drop-kit
@@GatorOverland Wow thanks for getting back to me… I will install the lift this Weekend and for sure I will Send you pics. And I Will consider the spacer in the link you sent me … for the price i think it worth it… Thanks!
Yes a $30 piece of mind isn’t bad… Quite honestly I don’t know why I haven’t done it… I think I will do that now and maybe post a video about it 😂😂, thanks for the inspiration..
I do recommend you having a torque wrench capable of 250 pounds.. these can be rented at O’Reilly.. also it’s very important that you tighten all your suspension bolts with the vehicle resting on its own weight. Do not tighten your control arms while the vehicle is suspended. Remember the bumpstop bolt threads, run that nut back and forth to clear the lacquer paint. Other than that it’s a straightforward install and I think you will enjoy it. Doing your own installs allows you to gain confidence with any issues that may become in the future on or off the trail. 🤝
@@GatorOverland Totally agreed with you… If you get stock on the trail without knowing what you’re doing could be an issue. That’s why I prefer the DIY option. I will have to wait a bit for the spacer… unfortunately here in canada 🇨🇦 everything is back order 🤦🏻♂️… And Thanks for the tip (tighten bolts to the right specs it’s a must) something that we can’t play with…. By the way sorry for my english im A french Canadian 😂
pas de problème, votre anglais a été compris. J'habite à la frontière Texas/Louisiane et j'ai grandi avec de nombreux amis cajun-français (acadiens) .. plutôt cool. Merci
Nice video. I'm going to do this "kit" with 35 inch tires and stock wheels. Would you do everything the same now that you have tested it for a while?
Absolutely!!! I have over 10k miles of smiles on this configuration, 7k of them are on 37’s. I have every bit of confidence that you will love the on and off-road performance.I absolutely love the ride quality of mine… I just completed a 2500 mile over landing trip from Texas to Colorado, and I’ll be honest, I’ve driven to Colorado many times over the years and this was one of the most comfortable I’ve been… I run 37 inch tires At 28 psi… Literally driving a cloud on a set of rails. Check out our insta for photos and video clips. instagram.com/p/CGUzwbOh65Q/?igshid=15jnghklo7dk4
Hey brother I may not or rather I may have missed it but at the end of your video the tires you have on there now what size are they? Appreciate you keep up the good work
In this video I’m running the stock 33’s, but I have since up’d to 37” BFG KO2 all terrains and love them. I will probably regear to 4.88 in the future but 16.5-18mpg currently on highway isn’t too bad. They are only 10lbs heavier each than the 33’s. Check out my other videos involving air compressor install and 4way inflate/deflate system for more looks at the truck. I should have more wheeling content soon. See my insta @gator_overland for pics and video
Thanks for the awesome info. I have the exact same Mopar lift and Fox Steering Stabilizer. I didn’t realize all these other upgrades could transform this lift into an “ultimate” one. With money tight right now I don’t see myself being able to upgrade to the components you’ve suggested just yet, however do you think just riding on what I currently have will cause damage in the long term? Thanks again for informative content. Will subscribe.
I dont think MOPAR would market this lift with the intention of damaging vehicle components. A 2” lift is probably the max you want to go without upgrading components. Its more for peace of mind. But the outcome was totally worth it
Thanks again! What you’ve shown here is that even with the current lift I have, I can still upgrade that without having to switch out to a completely different lift kit altogether.
Crewmember7 absolutely!! Just do your research and it will pay off on the end!
Excellent video,thinking of doing this lift on my jl Moab,also had same thoughts on adjustable track bar and rear relocation bracket(common sense)don’t know why Mopar does not include them,what was the purpose of the spacers,just for the added height or is there another reason
Thanks for the reply! Yes you’ll definitely be happy with the MOPAR.. the 3/4” spacers were just a cherry on top.. if I was going any different I would be doing metal cloak, Clayton, or rock krawler pro-x... I didn’t want to exceed 3” because I knew that would cause the flood gates to open for other accessories 🤦🏼♂️💸.. 2” to 3” is safe and practical for most any situation my JT will be going. No just trying to figure out 35 and stick with the 4.10s or 37’s and regear to 4.88
Gator_Overland I just purchased the Mopar two inch lift,the directions say the front spring should bow outward,should I be concerned,do your doings bow?
Thanks for the great video. I'm buying a 21 Gladiator Rubicon and my Dealer is offering a lift, wheels and tires through DSI that will be warranted as factory. I was very excited about this idea but they don't want to use the Mopar kit because they say it only lifts a JT Rubicon 1/2". I want this setup but I'll probably pass on the offer (even though I can fold it into my payment) and go with the Mopar or the Icon stage 4. How can I convince them?
They are incorrect for sure.. im not familiar with DSI.. I’m for both lifts you suggested.. the icon stage 4 is the kit I was waiting for and is the most equivalent to the kit I put together. I got 3” front and 2.75” rear out of my MOPAR+dayStar combo, so what ever they are saying about lifting only 1/2” is incorrect .. I just completed a 2500mile round trip overlanding route from Texas To Colorado and I’ll be honest, despite the greatness I would expect from the icon, I can vouch that my MOPAR combo was probably the most comfortable of more than a dozen trips I’ve done to Colorado over the passes years. Just do your research, be confident, and buy once, cry once.. check out my Instagram @gator_overland for current picture and off-road clips.. let me know if you have any other questions.
Great vid and very informative! Would you have a list of the items you purchased (cost)? Looking for a similar look and performance with my vehicle as well.
You bet man, check the video description, I have links to everything and the final cost. It works out to the same as your all in one kits like icon stage 4 (highly recommend as well), teraflex, synergy, etc. check out my insta @gator_overland for off-road video footage. Let me know if you have any questions.
Gator_Overland greatly appreciated!! 👊🏻
Jich505 I already have 7k on this lift configuration and have loved every mile. I’m on 37’s now too.. no regrets
You mentioned a link to the drop box file. If you don't mind can I see that document? Thanks.
Thanks for the reply, My drop box is being difficult today. Shoot an email to hawkijon@aol.com and ill shoot over the PDF. I hope to have the dropbox issue resolved soon.
www.dropbox.com/s/yjvdwrn7abl2orr/JT%20OUTLINE%20PDF%20%20B%20%26%20A.pdf?dl=0
@@GatorOverland Thank you!
Hey Man,
So I decided to finally get my steering gear box replaced and then dealer found some issues with my drag link bar & tie rod. So I had to come back to your video to see what adjustable trac bar you were using and the other components. I’m using a teraflex adjustable trac bar but it’s moving around make noise the bushings are shot. I’m probably going to do what you did here...ps I got muted in the group
Man, I hate to hear that you’re having those issues… Yes, I have 17,000 miles on the set up and still solid as a rock! I just got the TSB done last week and it made a hell of a difference.
What does getting muted mean !? 😂
@@GatorOverland I decided to go with a YETI track bar in the front...I can’t post for a week in the group. Muted...LOL
What group!? 😂
@@GatorOverland the Jeep gladiator group
@@miguelchacon1745 you have me wondering now what it takes to be muted from the group. Usually its political posts, but this seems odd.
Did you use the stock lower arms or the new ones with the drop bracket?
I used the control arms provided in the kit. Hole to hole they are only about 1/8” longer than stock
Hey I did your exact recommended kit and went from 33" to 35" AT3's on stock rims, its getting an alignment now and the shop is saying it needs spacers as tires are rubbing. Did you do spacers ? if so which ones?
I did not have to use spacers… Please contact me via email for more contact information jkhartel3@gmail.com
I’m not sure what trim model you have or where it is rubbing… If you have less than a sport s with max tow, the axles aren’t as wide and might be an issue with rubbing. It’s the first I’ve heard of it.
@@GatorOverland I have a rubicon. I let the shop center the front axle it was only 1” off and do the alignment. I pick it up in an hour and I’ll see how bad it rubs
That might have something to do with it. You shouldnt have any worries with a rubicon.. I don’t rub even at full flex steering lock to lock on stock wheels with 37’s.. Feel free to contact me anytime to discuss your install. Make sure they adjusted the draglink to re center your steering wheel.. if it’s off too much it will throw a code and put you in limp mode and limit engine power until you adjust it properly.
@@GatorOverland Hey, I sent you an email with some pictures and questions. Appreciate your input
hi what tires and size thank you
I currently have 37x12.50 BFG ALL TERRAIN KO.. love them.
this setup still running well for you @Gator_Overland?
Absolutely! 17k miles of smiles on this configuration and no regrets! It proves itself comfortable on road and more than capable off-road.
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
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I been looking at this lift kit, (got my Gladi two days ago)thanks for mentioning the other parts needed. I would’ve imagined it was just the included parts being that it comes from Mopar. Would this work for the Willys edition? Great video!
Absolutely!! You bet! Actually I’ve got an group friend that just installed this on his willys! Loves it! Check out Douglas Watson on Jeep Gladiator Facebook page. Or better yet contact me personally and I’ll forward you photos.
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
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@@GatorOverland I don’t have Facebook, but I’m already following on Instagram. I’m a fellow Texan, looking forward to taking this beast on some trails alongside my mountain bikes.
Hey hey! A MTB friend! I might have to get some locations from you in the future. Shoot me your insta handle and I’ll forward you some willys pics with my lift rec’s installed
Why not an adjustable rear track bar instead of the bracket and drilling?
That’s a good question.. cost is the main reason.. adjustable rear TB would have been my second choice. Leaving it stock would have been a bad choice. You Can’t go wrong with either upgrade as long as its realigns your axle properly while at level elevation.
@@GatorOverland Another benefit of the bracket is it lessens the angle of the track bar, so there's less of a shift side to side though suspension travel. Definitely noticeable on older jeeps.
4.10's arent going to be enough loaded down/ with trailer once you get a little west. youre going to want 4.56 or 4.88.
Absolutely! Couldn’t agree more.. I just completed a 2500 mile over landing trip from Texas to Colorado, and I’ll be honest, I’ve driven to Colorado many times over the years and this was one of the most comfortable I’ve been… I run 37 inch tires At 28 psi… Literally driving a cloud...BUT, the 5-6% grades did reveal the need for a regear. Fortunately I’m a SETX flatlander, so regear isn’t directly necessary, but is forecasted. I’ll probably go 4.88 as I don’t tow much, if at all. Thanks for the comment.
Looks great, but not over the top. I would also get a manual transmission.
Do you have to regear when you do a lift this size?
Lift kits in general do not constitute the regear… The Regear is only necessary if you resize your tires to a larger size then stock.
As seen in the video the truck doesn’t look terrible with this lift configuration and the stock 33” tires.
Why should regear be considered?
the 8spd on the gasser truck is pretty resilient and good at keeping the rpms where they need to be but these trucks are heavy by comparison of past jeeps and only pushing 285hp/260ftlb torque on a good day at sea level.
For the diesels @ 442ftlb of torque it is not directly necessary to regear after tire size increase because the power/torque is generated low in the RPM range, vs. a gasser that relies on RPM for power/torque.
Think of a 10speed bike... from a stop try going up a hill on speed 8,9, or 10.. it takes a lot of effort and puts stress on the pedals and crank to even pedal a few revolutions to get going.. drop it down to 1,2, or 3 and it becomes effortless to do the same work but your but your revolutions have increased. It’s the same concept in your axles and driveline. If you lift and increase tire size without regearing it’s still possible to function, but your truck will be working like the bike on speed 8,9,or 10.. how hard do you want your truck to work?
(I.e. you wouldn’t buy a 1spd beach cruiser bike to go trail/mountain biking) If your concept of a regear is for fuel economy, then you need to understand a regear is for driveline relief, and the potential fuel economy increase is a bonus.
I went 5.13’s after a year (20k miles) of running 37’s with the stock 4.10 gears and at 65-70 mph I averaged 16-18mpg @72mph or below, but my low end torque was done and so was use of 6th gear (manual). I now average a steady 18mpg even loaded down with gear at the same speeds and have regained my torque and use of 6th gear. No regrets going 5.13, especially in 4low, it’s seemingly effortless wheeling. If you go 35’s and don’t plan on going bigger 4.10 will be fine across most of the United States.. 4.88 would be optimal.
@@GatorOverland thanks i appreciate
the great answer.
Any chance you you could list out all of the additional parts purchased outside the Mopar lift kit?
Thanks for the reply Eric! I believe all the additional parts are include in the TH-cam description, but In the case it’s not displaying , shoot an email to Hawkijon@aol.com and I will send you everything you need.
JT MOPAR 2” lift: 77072468AB
RockKrawler rear track bar relocate bracket: RK07360K
Rancho front arm geometry relocation bracket: RS62118B
SteerSmarts track bar front: 75048001
SteerSmarts drag link with griffin attenuator: 78089002
MOPAR fox damper: 77072360
DayStar 3/4” level spacer: DAYKJ09191BK
Gator_Overland thanks! I just saw it in the description! Sorry about that!
Eric Platz No worries bud… I hope you consider the lift for yourself… I’m over 1500 miles in and no regrets…