MLTL 6 bit.ly/3GixUv9 Support the Channel by Shopping on Amazon amzn.to/3W8vsgK Cheap Audio Man Store Front shop.howl.me/cam Join the best hifi community out there! www.patreon.com/cheapaudioman TRY ROON roonlabs.com/r/RTmYWdCP9kitqouBa5pcIw Tidal Deal bit.ly/3siuqSF Amazon Unlimited Music Trial amzn.to/3DRAVj9 Crutchfield shop-links.co/cguPK8XEGmt Best Buy Deals shop-links.co/cf9yDZeYtUH amzn.to/3GkNaop CAM Store (New Products!) bit.ly/30Lgu4K apos.audio?sca_ref=552340.TY98BPcZ6P massdrop.7eer.net/qnOye5
You, Neil, and the rest of the crew are all really great blokes. Thank you for all you do for the community. Our world sounds much richer thanks to everything you do.
Just purchased a set of plans for the MLTL-6. Looks like a great weekend build. I'll support the folks that support you. And Sith Audio turned down my credit card for the lumenation device. They said cash only.
Thank you very much! Let me know if you have any questions, or need clarification. I included inch and metric drawings, for both the panels and for 5x5 or 4x8 sheet layout. The speakers can be made from one 5x5 18mm sheet; and if you also build the stands, that will take half a 5x5. If you use a 4x8 sheet, you can get both the speakers and the stands. The woofers are on sale, as it happens, at Madisound right now - $23 each (vs $36.30). And as Randy mentioned, I am hoping to have a CNC cut flat pack available - that would purchased directly from the shop I am working with. Stay tuned for details ...
@@NeilBlanchard Hi Neil - speaker looks great, but I have a question. I looked at the photo of the box on your website - that just looks like a regular port I've seen in lots of speakers (especially subs), not necessarily a transmission line. I was expecting the port's path to be longer and have an increasing width to the opening. What's the distinction then? Maybe it has more to do with some subwoofer designs being called ported when in reality they are "transmission lines".
@@redstang5150 The TL is wrapped around the L shaped baffles in the front center. The thing about "modern" TLs is the woofer is not at the closed end, and this makes the response much smoother. This acts makes the length of the TL longer than it would appear - it reflects into the closed end and back out again. This along with the polyfil (which is all in the closed and right behind the woofer), and the taper which is what adds the mass. The fundamental frequency of this speaker is 32Hz - which is lower than the 35Hz Fs of the driver. I used Hornresp and DataCAD to work through how to "fold" the design that the Hornresp model shows. The terminus slot is right at the end of the TL.
Great to see Neil’s designs in this video. Having heard them, they are worth the praise! Loved the definition of the transmission line. Also, loved that Sith Audio illumination product! I need two! Thanks, Randy.
@@andyjohnston32 There is another DIY speaker maker who is quite critical of crossover parts that aren't of a certain quality (capacitors, inductors and resistors), in his video's he refers to these components as cheesy, and claims that they severely compromise sound quality.
Bravo Neil!!! I hope to hear the MLTL 6's in person someday. And Thank You Randy for returning the "woofer tap of approval"!!! It was missed very much. Great Review. 👍👍👍
Thanks Randy, nice to see the review of Neils speaker. I knew it would be special because he cares so much about audio quality and sound. I can't do diy but appreciate what this is.
It makes perfect sense. I had an old school custom exhaust guy tell me years ago. The more bents in a - straight pipe system - the Deeper the exhaust will sound.
Yes, and the taper is what adds the air mass progressively. At the lowest frequencies, the entire "column" of air between the woofer and the terminus opening, is coupled with the woofer; lowering the resonance of the speaker. The air is *moving* with the woofer cone, which is quite different than a typical ported design. Hence the "mass loaded" part of the name.
Fun fact about that 10 kilohertz rise that you prefer: This is the region where most consonants are, and it lends itself tremendously to vocal intelligibility. The area that tends to cause listener fatigue the most is between 2 and 5 kHz where our ears are most sensitive. I generally prefer a completely linear frequency response, but I have voiced a few of my own designs to exhibit a bump in this area where you share a preference, it makes watching movie/tv content so much easier, and a subtle bump is not obnoxious or distracting either.
I have response and impedance curves on my website that CAM linked to above. The dome tweeter version actually does have a slight rise above ~10kHz, and is quite smooth and even. The SB Acoustics tweeter is very smooth and extended - it is just a few dB down at 30kHz.
@@mhester99 Sure - I think the final version was about $220 for the pair. ClarityCaps on the tweeter, 14AWG air core on the woofer. The tweeter is a 4th order, and the woofer is a 2nd order, at 2.2kHz.
Appreciate that you are not limiting yourself to mass produced speakers. That sounds like a great alternative. Might consider it if they are successful in developing a knock-down cabinet kit. A long long time ago, in a Galaxy far far away..... a person could buy assembled speaker cabinets and then put drivers of their choice in them, RADICAL! Sometimes it even worked out. Fun either way.
These are the entry level drivers from SB and they sound pretty good and inoffensive. More clarity and better detailing is available higher up in the driver price range. Can I request a review of Kairos kit by the late Mr Bagby, as I believe it to be the Best Value DIY speaker.
Thanks for posting this review. I"m just getting into DIY Hi-Fi and really appreciate these videos. Will probably start off with an easier bookshelf speaker kit (made for condo listening), but one of these days... I subbed.
I want to build the CSS Criton 1TDX bookshelf speakers and center channel. Since they sell flat pack cabinets it saves me lots of time and they are really impressive for their size. They have a smaller 5" upgraded pair that would be great for condo size listening. Maybe for the new year. Good luck !
I got the douk little bear and the Wiim mini for Christmas. Plugged the Wiim into my Fosi amp so I don’t have to use my iPad to play music and get up to change the album. The Wiim is super cool!! Thanks for the rec.
Thank you for doing this video - I appreciate it very much, Randy! A way to think about a mass loaded transmission line - is it is similar to an organ pipe; and it is kinda' like the whole cabinet is a tuned port. Much longer than a typical port, obviously. And because the transmission line (pipe/port) is tapered, all the air along it progressively adds mass to the woofer the lower the frequency goes. The tweeter is very extended - it is only a few dB down at 30kHz. The treble above 10kHz are actually raised up a couple of dB. 🙂 I think the crossover parts cost about $220 for the pair - they are using all air core coils, ClarityCap on the tweeter, and ultra-low inductance resistors. Mills resistors would only be a bit more. On my website - that @cheapaudioman linked to in the description, I am also selling mod instruction manuals for the SS-CS5 and Elac BS41 speakers for $20. And I am working this for the Emotiva B1+, as well.
I've long admired TL design. IMF Electronics' RSPMs, TLS 80s from the 70s had elaborate/expensive cabs & crossovers & KEF/Celestion/Coles drivers that championed the TL aproach. Would enjoy your thoughts on their designs & execution. Keep up the great work!
@@LibertyWines My understanding of how TL's have been done over the decades is, that they used to be a *lot* of trial and error, and a fair number of assumptions were made. One of which was that the woofer needed to be placed at the very end of the TL, farthest away from the terminus opening. But in the past 20 years or so, there have been acoustic modeling programs - like Hornresp[onse] that I used - that show that placing the woofer about 25-33% away from the closed end actually can have *much* smoother/better response. Having the computer do thousands/millions of calculations about all the major aspects inside *and* outside the cabinets - is simply revelatory! Transmission line designs have lower bass distortion, and when done right, have lower bass response for any given driver. And in my opinion, they have better midrange too - because they have much lower air pressure inside the cabinet - so they operate similarly to an open baffle in the midrange, I think. The 6" SB Acoustics woofer is only 13.8 gram Mms, and this is another reason why they have lower distortion.
The SB Acoustics SB16PFCR25-4 6" Paper Cone Woofer - 4 ohm- ROUND woofer in the MLTL-6 speaker - is on sale on Madisound for $23 ($36.30 usually) at this moment.
The MLTL topology is something with which DIYers have been familiar for at least 20years, thanks in huge part to Martin J King, who offered one of the most concise yet digestible technical explanations of QuarterWave operating theory, and until unscrupulous manufacturers pirated them, his MathCad worksheets that allowed for modelling of enclosures for drivers with a wide range of T/S parameters. Since the early 2000s on, there’s been an explosion of designs by dozens of competent folks, many of whom post on enthusiast forums such as DIY Audio, and paid Martin the very modest licensing fee for use of his IP. To this day, he’s barely recognized even within the DIY community for his contributions to the understanding of how to model MLTL, OB and BLH enclosures. Until retiring from active DIY building, I personally constructed scores of different enclosure designs that ran the gamut from simple old school bass reflex, through Back Loaded Horns (BLH), simple single and dual path MLTLs, to elaborate true Olson based manifold labyrinths. When well engineered and constructed, rather than “well, the design was taller than I have room for, so I just shrank it”, any of those aforementioned topologies can work very well - even for a modest sized single “full-range” driver in a desk top application. But just throwing together some even decent and costly drivers willy nilly into a random sized enclosure, or something recycled from your grampa’s attic is a total crap-shoot. Edit: punched to go button a bit early - this is by no means intended to disparage the work that Neil put into this design, which I’m sure is quite enjoyable.
I have built a few speakers with SB Acoustics drivers using the entry line of SB Acoustics' product line but they still offer great performance. These are one level higher, I guess, and should deliver even better results while still being affordable
I wonder about using gypsum fiber board for speakers. It's like drywall but much stronger and has very good sound proofing properties. Contary to dry wall you can put screws in it. They call it Fermacell over here but I'm not sure about availability in the US. It has a density of 71.79lb per square foot (up to double that of plywood depending on type).
Very interested in building these myself. I currently own a set of DSS-9 that go down pretty good but need a great deal of power behind them (250wpc) to drive the double voice coil woofer @ 6 ohms and 4 ohms. W/ great power comes great responsibility and when they start sounding good/great, the tweeter and midrange start to sound a little harsh (in my room w/ no acoustical treatment). I was watching the 49ers comeback (once again) this past weekend at a friends house who has a large tv and a Bose Speaker and this tiny little thing seems to fill the room (though not w/ much refinement) to clipping and it wasn't all THAT bad. I mean it was a full sound, not thin. It was kind of a revelation. That the speaker itself is a musical instrument that moves air and depending on the type is similar to a brass instrument (think woofers) or a stringed instrument (think ribbons). Well, why is that humble and looked down on Bose able to do what it does so cheaply (yet sell overpriced)? Because it in its most basic form is a speaker shaped instrument! So many speakers are not! Woofers move large amounts of air, that air wants to be compressed through a longish tube. The end of that tube is like the business end of a trumpet. I mean, that was my interpretation, kind of like an organ. It just took that basic Bose to come to that conclusion.
I have refined the construction and the cabinets have a 45 degree chamfer on the edges. The laminations are all parallel with the edge, and this makes them look like they are a solid block of wood.
@@NeilBlanchard yea I have been a woodworker for 50 yrs and the end grain kinda stranded out. To book match the grain and have it look like one solid block would be right on. Let us know when your ready to sell kits
@@2shoestoo The prototypes and the pair CAM reviewed are assembled with biscuits. And I was very specific with the way the panels were laid out - the sides are bookends; as I didn't want to have the thin edges with rabbeted corners. The edges "flow" around the cabinet, was the idea. But rabbeting is much easier to assemble and so the chamfered corners on the cabinet is the solution I settled on. The chamfers also help a bit with diffraction. You can check my webpage for images of the speakers that make things clearer.
The Fs of the 6" paper cone SB Acoustics woofer is 35Hz, and with the *mass loading* of the "column" of air between the woofer and the terminus opening, and with careful placement of polyfil, the fundamental frequency is 32Hz. The response is tuned to be placed relatively close to the wall, and with room lift, the in-room response in my room is essentially flat to 32Hz, as well.
There are a lot of "worthy" speakers that can benefit from improvements and upgrades. I do like the Elac BS41 speakers a lot. It takes a lot of work, and it would depend on "demand", to be honest.
I have an upgrade manual for the DB5.2, and several people have used it for the DB6.2 - there are different value crossover parts, and I can email this to you. The other mods apply.
I wish I could pictures on here of what I build here i made a 90lb monster sb acoustics are from Madison and really nice they sell that kit and it's awesome. I would buy that before I bought a big box speaker
I was amazed by how much "we" have learned about transmission lines over the decades. My introduction was the Linaeum LT1000 - the qualities of what a transmission line can offer were evident. But so were the drawbacks - but with 3D acoustic modeling programs, like Hornresp[onse] that I used, the main issue of a big response "trough" has been eliminated. The change is *where* the woofer is positioned in the TL - it is one quarter to one third of the distance away from the closed end. And almost all of the testing can be done in the software - which is a massive improvement; and in my opinion, more manufacturers will realize that making TLs is much less difficult *and* the results are much better than what they were in the past.
I'm a woodworker looking to build some bookshelf speakers. I'd rather get something in the $100 range than the Criton range. What parts would you point me toward?
I used ClarityCaps on the tweeter, and all the coils are air core; the woofer coil is 14AWG - and I think I paid about $220 for the pair. The tweeter is 4th order, and the woofer is 2nd order. I also include a series crossover (this is an "old" style that is said to be more efficient and sound more dynamic), and I just priced it out at $194 shipped. Per speaker: 2 ClarityCap, 2 Solen 14AWG air core, 2 Mills resistors (used in parallel for greater power dissipation); so 5 elements. This is 2nd order for both drivers - it has lower ESR because the coils are *much* lower values, so the bass and midrange should be more dynamic.
Agree. I’ve been to his website and his designs are mind-boggling. You have to figure that the resolution of his designs must be top-tier, given the use of extensive testing, very expensive drivers, and $1000 crossovers.
Yes. I'm from the Netherlands so, i just used Google translate for this haha. But you're looking for "Birken-Sperrholz". You want it to have a lot of layers, that is the good quality stuff (of course depending on how thick you get it). It will probably be b/bb grade. I built my first speakers out of that stuff, it's widely used.
@@danielh12345 thanks for the help Daniel. I did find an eu site that imports SB Acoustics. So I presume it would be possible to make them here. All the best.
@sdrtcacgnrjrc no problem! I built some Overnight Sensations, got most my stuff from SoundImports, was good service. They have some full kits too. It's obviously cheaper if you build the enclosesures yourself though if you have all the tools already
The 18mm (~3/4") Baltic birch plywood I used has 13 layers, and (in theory) has no voids. The face "veneers" are as thick as all the other layers, making it nice to work with. The speakers can be made with 18mm MDF/HDF as well; requiring a finish veneer and/or paint.
I appreciate your idea of cheap audio, I do posess a nice very reasonable priced rega p3, marantz cd & pm 6007usb with bowers & wilkins 607s2 silver anniversaries. Now my quest was for the bedroom how to get a small hifi in there that was unobtrusive that I can chill to when the wife's watching TV in the lounge with my main system. Now all I had was a pair of Q acoustic 3020i doing nothing so placed them above the wardrobe with plenty of space around them, then for christmas the wife found a small Nobsound amplifier on amazon (great ratings) with built in Bluetooth 5 plus USB & Jack's for inputs £41.99 now I thought its really gonna cost me nothing but I liked the idea of trying the cheapest setup & sending my 600 flac albums from my samsung s22ultra which I connect to a portable hard drive of music. The Small nobsound turned up at 50 Watts per channel I wire it up to the speakers & boom it was a great sound worked first time. Not expensive audiophile but for the money it sounds damn great & I have a room for £41.99 to retire to when I can't access my 3 grand system downstairs. You gotta try one of these little amps it's a no brainer.
If I were building a pair of speakers from scratch, I would make a point of using a KEF B139 bass driver and a Polk SL3000 tweeter. No idea what the rest of the design would be, but those two components would be the core of the whole idea. Would I also need a midrange driver? Yeah, probably.
not exactly cheap but for what you get i feel like you should try out some Ascend acoustics. I have the sierra 1lxs and feel that you would be surprised with how they sound for the cost.
Has anybody ever seen a dual opposed diy sub build? Would be very nice I think to emulate what svs and kef did with their micro subs with a 10" version, probably for much cheaper when used with the inuke 3000dsp amp with built in dsp.
Do you have a review or advice on making an older TV become bluetooth? Im currently listening with a Koss 40. But I take that off so many times to go about the house and back to the show/movie, I'd sure like to be able to have the option of bluetooth earbuds (which there are plenty on a budget). But bluetooth transmitters are a very confusing area. Thank you. Also would you say the Liberty 4 pro would be the best earbuds for this?
If there were an ald school big face bog box speaker Kit, like some JBL or Warfdales I would probably have a go for the look of the things and the savings.
I run a pair of home made IPL Acoustics transmission lines with fountek ribbon tweeters. Sadly IPL acoustics has closed now. He has retired but he speakers are awesome
Nice! PMC is a company that only builds transmission line speakers. And RSL is a US company that has "quasi" transmission line speakers; including their SpeedWoofer.
Yes - and you can build the matching stands from it, as well. It takes one 5x5 for the speakers, and a half sheet for the stands. I have all these drawings in both inches and millimeters in the build manual.
Randy, please respond to this ❤️ I have a pioneer txh94, 7.1 receiver, 140 watts x7. Right now using as a 2 channel for my unified 2.0s, thanks for your review on this speaker, so did Ron, Steve etc. You're all correct, they are Amazing! Anyway, the pioneer is 08 yr. Elite unit, it's B rated not ab, B only, Sounds Really good! However I read that the B push-pull, which isn't at the lower distortion level as the ab units, and it's getting up in yrs. Iam thinking about getting the emotiva A-2, and using it as my power amp, and my Pioneer as pre-amp, which you speak highly of.. A2. It puts out 160 RMS at 0.02 the, my Pioneer 0.9thd,, Please, send your thoughts and insight, does this make any sense? Iam gaining 20watts,less distortion, its2021 and ab unit and not to much $$,. I never knew anyone built just a B rated amplifier!? Thoughts please, thanks 🤘 if anyone in the comments know, let me know, Thanks 🤘❤️
Probably the easiest way to explain transmission line speakers to anyone who was around in the 90's and early 2000's is "you remember the Bose Wave Radio? It's THAT technology." Because it was. All Bose did was slap the guts of a clock radio into a plastic transmission line enclosure. That's literally all it was.
Very Nice...next time ask him to do the same without the tweeter and use a Good Full Range Driver... There is a TML DIY that's 7" square and 32 inches Tall reports are it too is awesome. So, there is that . It's on TH-cam...
Does Neil have any kind of contact info? Looked at the link and did not see a way to contact. Very interested and have questions. His site mentions working on a Tower version. Curious as to the footprint of that one.
Why oh why do you do crossover? I run wideband in my homecinema and i dont have the problems you guyes have... Lol. Tho like the drivers he has used... Danish/Norwegian/french drivers is the best
All designs are a compromise - yes a full range driver avoids the need for a crossover, but they get directional at frequencies with a wavelength that is smaller than the driver. And they have a lot more mass than a tweeter, so that also affects the high frequency response. And they can require a baffle step filter. Having said that, I am working on a MLTL design for a 4" paper cone full range driver, that should have a fundamental frequency of ~48Hz, and the response is such that it may not require a baffle step filter. So, the total for parts and materials could be $200-250. Binding posts, wires, drivers, Baltic birch/MDF, polyfil - very simple.
@@richardl3835 I have the drivers now, and I am going to build the cabinets hopefully soon. They are about half the cabinet volume vs the MLTL-6 speaker.
The Pearl Acoustics "Sibelius" speaker is essentially what you are talking about. I have not heard it, but it is apparently a *wonderful* speaker. It goes low, but not as low as my speaker - the tower version I have designed should go as low as 28Hz. And having a tweeter gives a much wider area of treble, as well.
@@NeilBlanchard Yes Neil, I know. I saw the Sibelius videos. But from a budget-audio perpective it would be interresting if we could make a step up in a simple cheaper design with a modern full range driver. Its what this channel is about. Not high-end stuff.
@@karelvandervelden8819 Understood - I have done a TL design for a ~4" wideband paper cone driver. It is about half the size of this one - layout is very similar, that looks like it wouldn't even need a baffle step filter. Bass fundamental frequency is about 48Hz, if I remember correctly. Edit: I just ordered a pair of the drivers on Amazon - $71 for the pair. As I said, the TL I designed has a slight bass rise, and therefore may not even need a baffle step compensation filter. If it works well, I'll post the plans for $25.
@@NeilBlanchard There is loads of info about it on DIYaudio. I was just wondering wether we could simplify entry-level components. Since audio quality/pricing in entry level has been bettered so much. I still have lightly used Philips papercone 9710M drivers for a fun project. (open baffle ?)
@@JACT1101 Rude reply to a lazy comment and I appreciate videos like this that inspired people to think outside the box or in this case build their own box. Have a blessed day. Try to stay positive in this world of harshness.
Looks like a cool design but I feel like $100 is pretty step if its just the plans when PE and Madisound sell their kits at a parts discount. On the other hand if you start making flat packs and/or crossover boards, something that adds unique value that would justify buying into this. Otherwise there are plenty of really good designs available for free or one the several kits from PE, Madisound, ect that are cheaper than the sum of their parts.
Diy makes most sense if you go for very complex large enclosures as this is not economical to do automated and to ship. So subs make sense to do in diy. As an experiment, it's cool to experiment with cheap drivers
@@Stan_the_Belgian Totally agree if you have the means to build large and/or complex cabinets is a big plus of DIY as its gets prohibitively expensive for manufactures to build and ship large well-built speakers. Most of what I've built has been small two-ways but I'm as much into it as a creative outlet as value proposition. That said I have built a crazy overbuilt 12" sub and 8" towers that would been well into four figures retail.
I'm interested in why you never do a review of some older speakers, eg 10 years old, and compare them to newer ones. Many people still buy second-hand speakers and it would do them good to hear a professional opinion.
Wait a minute ... inches .. what is that ..? We got no inches here in Europe... ! I heard that speakers builded with the metric system sounds better .. An audiophile said it to me .. ! 😅
Well since you like to plant ideas in Neil’s brain and you have a pair of Wharfedale Denton 80th. How’s about a crossover upgrade while I get a garage built so I can build a kit.. You know just to tide me over
Get off ur asses and save some money and earn some pride! To be a bit blunt. There should be a much larger Market for diy speakers but i guess it just seems intimidating and time consuming. You know the reward is worth it cuz you've built one.
Where's the speaker? Where's the crossover? Where are the drivers? I see you but I don't see what you are talking about. More pictures of what you are describing please. I mean, I love you and your face a lot, but I wouldn't totally mind if you reversed the amount of screen time between you and the items you're describing. Love you though, love your show.
Charging $100 for a DIY design is 4 - 6 times as much as most designs for sale. Your friend would be better off dropping the price to $20 - $25 which would probably result in selling many more designs.
Designing a mass loaded transmission line speaker is a *lot* more work, than designing a sealed or ported speaker. Even with very powerful and sophisticated acoustic modeling software, I spent over 50 hours over several months designing the cabinet. It was many, many iterative changes to both the acoustic model, and to the CAD drawing at the same time; to be sure what I would be building was what the computer was modeling. I build two pairs of prototypes, with the two different tweeters, and made a major revision to both crossovers. I then built the third pair, that were the speakers that CAM reviewed. Each pair of speakers took me about a week to build. I had to document the entire build process, and write up everything, and make drawings and CAD files. I had to work through how to construct the cabinets, with both hand tools, and CNC. All in all, the design/build process was about 8 months of work.
Man I just mad this enclosure and put the drivers and crossover from a pair of B&W 601 S3s and I swear for rock music in particular they are better than me Magnepan.7s with subs
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Thanks for this one!
I made my first DIY speakers a few months ago. I learned a huge amount making them; I recommend making everyone having a go.
You, Neil, and the rest of the crew are all really great blokes. Thank you for all you do for the community. Our world sounds much richer thanks to everything you do.
AWESOME!!!! I am buying you and Neil coffee today! :) Cheers.
Awesome! Thank you! I'm not sharing with Neil
Please review more popular DIY speaker kits and/or plans! This is awesome!
I still have my DCM Timeframe 600...I bought for 700 dollars back in 92... They are a transmission line speaker...they still rock
Sith Audio Illumination Device is like having the power of the Sun in your hand. Great Job on the speakers, Neil.
Just purchased a set of plans for the MLTL-6. Looks like a great weekend build.
I'll support the folks that support you.
And Sith Audio turned down my credit card for the lumenation device. They said cash only.
Thank you very much! Let me know if you have any questions, or need clarification. I included inch and metric drawings, for both the panels and for 5x5 or 4x8 sheet layout. The speakers can be made from one 5x5 18mm sheet; and if you also build the stands, that will take half a 5x5. If you use a 4x8 sheet, you can get both the speakers and the stands.
The woofers are on sale, as it happens, at Madisound right now - $23 each (vs $36.30).
And as Randy mentioned, I am hoping to have a CNC cut flat pack available - that would purchased directly from the shop I am working with. Stay tuned for details ...
Thanks for the update
@@NeilBlanchard Hi Neil - speaker looks great, but I have a question. I looked at the photo of the box on your website - that just looks like a regular port I've seen in lots of speakers (especially subs), not necessarily a transmission line. I was expecting the port's path to be longer and have an increasing width to the opening. What's the distinction then? Maybe it has more to do with some subwoofer designs being called ported when in reality they are "transmission lines".
@@redstang5150 The TL is wrapped around the L shaped baffles in the front center. The thing about "modern" TLs is the woofer is not at the closed end, and this makes the response much smoother. This acts makes the length of the TL longer than it would appear - it reflects into the closed end and back out again. This along with the polyfil (which is all in the closed and right behind the woofer), and the taper which is what adds the mass. The fundamental frequency of this speaker is 32Hz - which is lower than the 35Hz Fs of the driver.
I used Hornresp and DataCAD to work through how to "fold" the design that the Hornresp model shows. The terminus slot is right at the end of the TL.
Great to see Neil’s designs in this video. Having heard them, they are worth the praise! Loved the definition of the transmission line. Also, loved that Sith Audio illumination product! I need two! Thanks, Randy.
I nearly spit out my drink when you hit the crossover complaint section. If only everyone understood who that is directed at. Freaking awesome!
CAM mentioned sand cast resistors, too bad he didn't include iron core inductors, another CHEEZY part according to he who will go unmentioned.
Haha i knew. Funny stuff.
Came here to make sure someone caught this LOL
Can you please elaborate on this crossover thing? I guess it went over my head.
@@andyjohnston32 There is another DIY speaker maker who is quite critical of crossover parts that aren't of a certain quality (capacitors, inductors and resistors), in his video's he refers to these components as cheesy, and claims that they severely compromise sound quality.
Bravo Neil!!! I hope to hear the MLTL 6's in person someday. And Thank You Randy for returning the "woofer tap of approval"!!! It was missed very much. Great Review. 👍👍👍
Gino, if we can make it to Capital Audiofest next year, I will try to have these speakers - and maybe the tower version there, as well!
@@NeilBlanchard Thanks Neil! Looking forward to seeing you there!!!
@@ginom407 I am thinking seriously about going to AXPONA but we'll see. Where I could have my system, is the main question.
Transmission line is fantastic
Not sure how I missed this video when it came out. Very interesting and informative. Thank you
Thanks Randy, nice to see the review of Neils speaker. I knew it would be special because he cares so much about audio quality and sound. I can't do diy but appreciate what this is.
It makes perfect sense. I had an old school custom exhaust guy tell me years ago. The more bents in a - straight pipe system - the Deeper the exhaust will sound.
Yes, and the taper is what adds the air mass progressively. At the lowest frequencies, the entire "column" of air between the woofer and the terminus opening, is coupled with the woofer; lowering the resonance of the speaker. The air is *moving* with the woofer cone, which is quite different than a typical ported design. Hence the "mass loaded" part of the name.
I’ve taken your advice and binge listened to these CSS Torri. I just keep playing one more song! I just added a Fluance Rt83 to the fun last week.
Fun fact about that 10 kilohertz rise that you prefer:
This is the region where most consonants are, and it lends itself tremendously to vocal intelligibility. The area that tends to cause listener fatigue the most is between 2 and 5 kHz where our ears are most sensitive.
I generally prefer a completely linear frequency response, but I have voiced a few of my own designs to exhibit a bump in this area where you share a preference, it makes watching movie/tv content so much easier, and a subtle bump is not obnoxious or distracting either.
I have response and impedance curves on my website that CAM linked to above. The dome tweeter version actually does have a slight rise above ~10kHz, and is quite smooth and even. The SB Acoustics tweeter is very smooth and extended - it is just a few dB down at 30kHz.
@@NeilBlanchard Neil can you tell us what the crossover components total cost is?
@@mhester99 Sure - I think the final version was about $220 for the pair. ClarityCaps on the tweeter, 14AWG air core on the woofer. The tweeter is a 4th order, and the woofer is a 2nd order, at 2.2kHz.
Appreciate that you are not limiting yourself to mass produced speakers. That sounds like a great alternative.
Might consider it if they are successful in developing a knock-down cabinet kit.
A long long time ago, in a Galaxy far far away.....
a person could buy assembled speaker cabinets and then put drivers of their choice in them,
RADICAL! Sometimes it even worked out. Fun either way.
To add on, these were usually floor mounted enclosures. Usually for 12 or 15" drivers and mids, etc.
I am working with a CNC shop, and hopefully they will be able to sell flat packs, of these speakers, and the matching stands, as well.
Hi Randy! the AIYIMA A07 Pro is already out and available on Amazon, looking forward to your review on it. Happy new year! :)
These are the entry level drivers from SB and they sound pretty good and inoffensive. More clarity and better detailing is available higher up in the driver price range. Can I request a review of Kairos kit by the late Mr Bagby, as I believe it to be the Best Value DIY speaker.
Thanks for posting this review. I"m just getting into DIY Hi-Fi and really appreciate these videos. Will probably start off with an easier bookshelf speaker kit (made for condo listening), but one of these days... I subbed.
I want to build the CSS Criton 1TDX bookshelf speakers and center channel. Since they sell flat pack cabinets it saves me lots of time and they are really impressive for their size. They have a smaller 5" upgraded pair that would be great for condo size listening. Maybe for the new year. Good luck !
I got the douk little bear and the Wiim mini for Christmas. Plugged the Wiim into my Fosi amp so I don’t have to use my iPad to play music and get up to change the album. The Wiim is super cool!! Thanks for the rec.
Thank you for doing this video - I appreciate it very much, Randy!
A way to think about a mass loaded transmission line - is it is similar to an organ pipe; and it is kinda' like the whole cabinet is a tuned port. Much longer than a typical port, obviously. And because the transmission line (pipe/port) is tapered, all the air along it progressively adds mass to the woofer the lower the frequency goes.
The tweeter is very extended - it is only a few dB down at 30kHz. The treble above 10kHz are actually raised up a couple of dB. 🙂
I think the crossover parts cost about $220 for the pair - they are using all air core coils, ClarityCap on the tweeter, and ultra-low inductance resistors. Mills resistors would only be a bit more.
On my website - that @cheapaudioman linked to in the description, I am also selling mod instruction manuals for the SS-CS5 and Elac BS41 speakers for $20. And I am working this for the Emotiva B1+, as well.
I've long admired TL design. IMF Electronics' RSPMs, TLS 80s from the 70s had elaborate/expensive cabs & crossovers & KEF/Celestion/Coles drivers that championed the TL aproach. Would enjoy your thoughts on their designs & execution. Keep up the great work!
I have so many questions and am very interested. Looks awesome
@@LibertyWines My understanding of how TL's have been done over the decades is, that they used to be a *lot* of trial and error, and a fair number of assumptions were made. One of which was that the woofer needed to be placed at the very end of the TL, farthest away from the terminus opening. But in the past 20 years or so, there have been acoustic modeling programs - like Hornresp[onse] that I used - that show that placing the woofer about 25-33% away from the closed end actually can have *much* smoother/better response. Having the computer do thousands/millions of calculations about all the major aspects inside *and* outside the cabinets - is simply revelatory!
Transmission line designs have lower bass distortion, and when done right, have lower bass response for any given driver. And in my opinion, they have better midrange too - because they have much lower air pressure inside the cabinet - so they operate similarly to an open baffle in the midrange, I think.
The 6" SB Acoustics woofer is only 13.8 gram Mms, and this is another reason why they have lower distortion.
The SB Acoustics SB16PFCR25-4 6" Paper Cone Woofer - 4 ohm- ROUND woofer in the MLTL-6 speaker - is on sale on Madisound for $23 ($36.30 usually) at this moment.
@@jackstraw1756 Ask away! And thank you!
Dayton audio made there higher end towers with 4.5 woofers with the transmission line and heard they sound really good
The MLTL topology is something with which DIYers have been familiar for at least 20years, thanks in huge part to Martin J King, who offered one of the most concise yet digestible technical explanations of QuarterWave operating theory, and until unscrupulous manufacturers pirated them, his MathCad worksheets that allowed for modelling of enclosures for drivers with a wide range of T/S parameters. Since the early 2000s on, there’s been an explosion of designs by dozens of competent folks, many of whom post on enthusiast forums such as DIY Audio, and paid Martin the very modest licensing fee for use of his IP.
To this day, he’s barely recognized even within the DIY community for his contributions to the understanding of how to model MLTL, OB and BLH enclosures.
Until retiring from active DIY building, I personally constructed scores of different enclosure designs that ran the gamut from simple old school bass reflex, through Back Loaded Horns (BLH), simple single and dual path MLTLs, to elaborate true Olson based manifold labyrinths.
When well engineered and constructed, rather than “well, the design was taller than I have room for, so I just shrank it”, any of those aforementioned topologies can work very well - even for a modest sized single “full-range” driver in a desk top application.
But just throwing together some even decent and costly drivers willy nilly into a random sized enclosure, or something recycled from your grampa’s attic is a total crap-shoot.
Edit: punched to go button a bit early - this is by no means intended to disparage the work that Neil put into this design, which I’m sure is quite enjoyable.
I have built a few speakers with SB Acoustics drivers using the entry line of SB Acoustics' product line but they still offer great performance.
These are one level higher, I guess, and should deliver even better results while still being affordable
Ok Great. I bought the plans and i,m ready to go. I could use the CAD files for the CNC please.
But what about crossovers. Did I miss something?
LOVE SITH AUDIO!!!
I wonder about using gypsum fiber board for speakers. It's like drywall but much stronger and has very good sound proofing properties. Contary to dry wall you can put screws in it. They call it Fermacell over here but I'm not sure about availability in the US. It has a density of 71.79lb per square foot (up to double that of plywood depending on type).
Very interested in building these myself. I currently own a set of DSS-9 that go down pretty good but need a great deal of power behind them (250wpc) to drive the double voice coil woofer @ 6 ohms and 4 ohms. W/ great power comes great responsibility and when they start sounding good/great, the tweeter and midrange start to sound a little harsh (in my room w/ no acoustical treatment). I was watching the 49ers comeback (once again) this past weekend at a friends house who has a large tv and a Bose Speaker and this tiny little thing seems to fill the room (though not w/ much refinement) to clipping and it wasn't all THAT bad. I mean it was a full sound, not thin. It was kind of a revelation. That the speaker itself is a musical instrument that moves air and depending on the type is similar to a brass instrument (think woofers) or a stringed instrument (think ribbons). Well, why is that humble and looked down on Bose able to do what it does so cheaply (yet sell overpriced)? Because it in its most basic form is a speaker shaped instrument! So many speakers are not! Woofers move large amounts of air, that air wants to be compressed through a longish tube. The end of that tube is like the business end of a trumpet. I mean, that was my interpretation, kind of like an organ. It just took that basic Bose to come to that conclusion.
I like the Baltic Burch plywood construction but not sure why you would have the end grain facing the front panel that you see.
I have refined the construction and the cabinets have a 45 degree chamfer on the edges. The laminations are all parallel with the edge, and this makes them look like they are a solid block of wood.
@@NeilBlanchard yea I have been a woodworker for 50 yrs and the end grain kinda stranded out. To book match the grain and have it look like one solid block would be right on. Let us know when your ready to sell kits
@@2shoestoo The prototypes and the pair CAM reviewed are assembled with biscuits. And I was very specific with the way the panels were laid out - the sides are bookends; as I didn't want to have the thin edges with rabbeted corners. The edges "flow" around the cabinet, was the idea.
But rabbeting is much easier to assemble and so the chamfered corners on the cabinet is the solution I settled on. The chamfers also help a bit with diffraction.
You can check my webpage for images of the speakers that make things clearer.
Excellent Chief! Is it possible to get lost in the speaker's corn maze? I hate them things, but love transmission line speakers! BTW - happy new year!
Very cool build. 32hz from a 6 1/2 inch woofer is bonkers, even if it's an in room measurement.
The Fs of the 6" paper cone SB Acoustics woofer is 35Hz, and with the *mass loading* of the "column" of air between the woofer and the terminus opening, and with careful placement of polyfil, the fundamental frequency is 32Hz. The response is tuned to be placed relatively close to the wall, and with room lift, the in-room response in my room is essentially flat to 32Hz, as well.
Almost 150k subscribers!
I know. Crazy l, right?
Ya it’s crazy but I’m definitely not surprised, good stuff like this is contagious
Neil, would you be so kind as to work on a modification for the ELAC DB62? Thank you for your consideration and nice start on your website.
There are a lot of "worthy" speakers that can benefit from improvements and upgrades. I do like the Elac BS41 speakers a lot. It takes a lot of work, and it would depend on "demand", to be honest.
I have an upgrade manual for the DB5.2, and several people have used it for the DB6.2 - there are different value crossover parts, and I can email this to you. The other mods apply.
I wish I could pictures on here of what I build here i made a 90lb monster sb acoustics are from Madison and really nice they sell that kit and it's awesome. I would buy that before I bought a big box speaker
Does the audiophile illumination troubleshooting device allow you to hear colors?
Red and green only,l right now but they’re planning a firmware update
WOW! 1 Sith Audio Troubleshooting Illumination Device for $1,237 and even better, 2 for $3,000! WOOHOO! I'm buying stock in Sith Audio!
Nice G-Shock Square.
I've had a few pairs of transmission line speakers back in the 80/90s great design and sound if done properly.
I was amazed by how much "we" have learned about transmission lines over the decades. My introduction was the Linaeum LT1000 - the qualities of what a transmission line can offer were evident. But so were the drawbacks - but with 3D acoustic modeling programs, like Hornresp[onse] that I used, the main issue of a big response "trough" has been eliminated. The change is *where* the woofer is positioned in the TL - it is one quarter to one third of the distance away from the closed end.
And almost all of the testing can be done in the software - which is a massive improvement; and in my opinion, more manufacturers will realize that making TLs is much less difficult *and* the results are much better than what they were in the past.
I'm a woodworker looking to build some bookshelf speakers. I'd rather get something in the $100 range than the Criton range. What parts would you point me toward?
Man I’m all the way down with that.
I absolutely love this channel.
So why don' t you marry it?
Can you post a confirmation of the crossover parts cost?
I used ClarityCaps on the tweeter, and all the coils are air core; the woofer coil is 14AWG - and I think I paid about $220 for the pair. The tweeter is 4th order, and the woofer is 2nd order.
I also include a series crossover (this is an "old" style that is said to be more efficient and sound more dynamic), and I just priced it out at $194 shipped. Per speaker: 2 ClarityCap, 2 Solen 14AWG air core, 2 Mills resistors (used in parallel for greater power dissipation); so 5 elements. This is 2nd order for both drivers - it has lower ESR because the coils are *much* lower values, so the bass and midrange should be more dynamic.
Im finishing up a 31x40 garage with 16' ceilings, I had thought of getting some ceiling mount speakers. What would you recommend?
Love to see some reviews of Troels Gravesen’s designs. From a value standpoint, the drivers and crossover parts put to shame super high end speakers.
Agree. I’ve been to his website and his designs are mind-boggling. You have to figure that the resolution of his designs must be top-tier, given the use of extensive testing, very expensive drivers, and $1000 crossovers.
Is the Baltic birch plywood? I'm not from the US -- and have no idea what's available here in Germany (cause I amn't a native here either)
Yes. I'm from the Netherlands so, i just used Google translate for this haha. But you're looking for "Birken-Sperrholz". You want it to have a lot of layers, that is the good quality stuff (of course depending on how thick you get it). It will probably be b/bb grade. I built my first speakers out of that stuff, it's widely used.
@@danielh12345 thanks for the help Daniel. I did find an eu site that imports SB Acoustics. So I presume it would be possible to make them here. All the best.
@sdrtcacgnrjrc no problem! I built some Overnight Sensations, got most my stuff from SoundImports, was good service. They have some full kits too. It's obviously cheaper if you build the enclosesures yourself though if you have all the tools already
The 18mm (~3/4") Baltic birch plywood I used has 13 layers, and (in theory) has no voids. The face "veneers" are as thick as all the other layers, making it nice to work with. The speakers can be made with 18mm MDF/HDF as well; requiring a finish veneer and/or paint.
@@sdrtcacgnrjrc SB Acoustics is a Danish company, and I'm pretty sure they are available everywhere.
I appreciate your idea of cheap audio, I do posess a nice very reasonable priced rega p3, marantz cd & pm 6007usb with bowers & wilkins 607s2 silver anniversaries. Now my quest was for the bedroom how to get a small hifi in there that was unobtrusive that I can chill to when the wife's watching TV in the lounge with my main system. Now all I had was a pair of Q acoustic 3020i doing nothing so placed them above the wardrobe with plenty of space around them, then for christmas the wife found a small Nobsound amplifier on amazon (great ratings) with built in Bluetooth 5 plus USB & Jack's for inputs £41.99 now I thought its really gonna cost me nothing but I liked the idea of trying the cheapest setup & sending my 600 flac albums from my samsung s22ultra which I connect to a portable hard drive of music. The Small nobsound turned up at 50 Watts per channel I wire it up to the speakers & boom it was a great sound worked first time. Not expensive audiophile but for the money it sounds damn great & I have a room for £41.99 to retire to when I can't access my 3 grand system downstairs. You gotta try one of these little amps it's a no brainer.
If I were building a pair of speakers from scratch, I would make a point of using a KEF B139 bass driver and a Polk SL3000 tweeter. No idea what the rest of the design would be, but those two components would be the core of the whole idea. Would I also need a midrange driver? Yeah, probably.
not exactly cheap but for what you get i feel like you should try out some Ascend acoustics. I have the sierra 1lxs and feel that you would be surprised with how they sound for the cost.
Has anybody ever seen a dual opposed diy sub build? Would be very nice I think to emulate what svs and kef did with their micro subs with a 10" version, probably for much cheaper when used with the inuke 3000dsp amp with built in dsp.
Do you have a review or advice on making an older TV become bluetooth? Im currently listening with a Koss 40. But I take that off so many times to go about the house and back to the show/movie, I'd sure like to be able to have the option of bluetooth earbuds (which there are plenty on a budget). But bluetooth transmitters are a very confusing area. Thank you. Also would you say the Liberty 4 pro would be the best earbuds for this?
I appreciate your video’s. I think Bose does transmission ports🤔
When are you gonna do a video on the new modi multibit??
If there were an ald school big face bog box speaker Kit, like some JBL or Warfdales I would probably have a go for the look of the things and the savings.
I run a pair of home made IPL Acoustics transmission lines with fountek ribbon tweeters. Sadly IPL acoustics has closed now. He has retired but he speakers are awesome
Nice! PMC is a company that only builds transmission line speakers. And RSL is a US company that has "quasi" transmission line speakers; including their SpeedWoofer.
Do you have recommendations for DIY speaker kits under $200?
Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker alert! Review soon?
Will one 4x8 sheet of plywood do the job?
Yes - and you can build the matching stands from it, as well. It takes one 5x5 for the speakers, and a half sheet for the stands. I have all these drawings in both inches and millimeters in the build manual.
@@NeilBlanchard tx!
It’s a bit off topic but will you be reviewing the AIYIMA A07 PRO? I refuse to buy one till you do.
Randy, please respond to this ❤️ I have a pioneer txh94, 7.1 receiver, 140 watts x7. Right now using as a 2 channel for my unified 2.0s, thanks for your review on this speaker, so did Ron, Steve etc. You're all correct, they are Amazing! Anyway, the pioneer is 08 yr. Elite unit, it's B rated not ab, B only, Sounds Really good! However I read that the B push-pull, which isn't at the lower distortion level as the ab units, and it's getting up in yrs. Iam thinking about getting the emotiva A-2, and using it as my power amp, and my Pioneer as pre-amp, which you speak highly of.. A2. It puts out 160 RMS at 0.02 the, my Pioneer 0.9thd,, Please, send your thoughts and insight, does this make any sense? Iam gaining 20watts,less distortion, its2021 and ab unit and not to much $$,. I never knew anyone built just a B rated amplifier!? Thoughts please, thanks 🤘 if anyone in the comments know, let me know, Thanks 🤘❤️
Probably the easiest way to explain transmission line speakers to anyone who was around in the 90's and early 2000's is "you remember the Bose Wave Radio? It's THAT technology." Because it was. All Bose did was slap the guts of a clock radio into a plastic transmission line enclosure. That's literally all it was.
Very Nice...next time ask him to do the same without the tweeter and use a Good Full Range Driver... There is a TML DIY that's 7" square and 32 inches Tall reports are it too is awesome. So, there is that . It's on TH-cam...
Is this like what Bose (sorry) does with their Wave system?
Very cool
Speaking bass, have you heard any Bohren and the Club of Gore🤷♂️😁👍
Does Neil have any kind of contact info? Looked at the link and did not see a way to contact. Very interested and have questions. His site mentions working on a Tower version. Curious as to the footprint of that one.
I will add this to my website - thanks for the suggestion.
Why oh why do you do crossover? I run wideband in my homecinema and i dont have the problems you guyes have... Lol. Tho like the drivers he has used... Danish/Norwegian/french drivers is the best
All designs are a compromise - yes a full range driver avoids the need for a crossover, but they get directional at frequencies with a wavelength that is smaller than the driver. And they have a lot more mass than a tweeter, so that also affects the high frequency response. And they can require a baffle step filter.
Having said that, I am working on a MLTL design for a 4" paper cone full range driver, that should have a fundamental frequency of ~48Hz, and the response is such that it may not require a baffle step filter. So, the total for parts and materials could be $200-250. Binding posts, wires, drivers, Baltic birch/MDF, polyfil - very simple.
That would be awesome, I am interested in something smaller than this design
@@richardl3835 I have the drivers now, and I am going to build the cabinets hopefully soon. They are about half the cabinet volume vs the MLTL-6 speaker.
Love the diy stuff, transmission line speakers are cool😁
Keep preachin’ the gospel of tone controls!
LOL Hey Neo take the speaker you made, make it smaller and change the drivers for cheaper ones. I'm basically asking you to make another speaker 🤣
I like to see a reviewer like you build a single broadband speaker design (without crossover
and tweeter) and tell us how it compares.
The Pearl Acoustics "Sibelius" speaker is essentially what you are talking about. I have not heard it, but it is apparently a *wonderful* speaker. It goes low, but not as low as my speaker - the tower version I have designed should go as low as 28Hz. And having a tweeter gives a much wider area of treble, as well.
@@NeilBlanchard Yes Neil, I know. I saw the Sibelius videos.
But from a budget-audio perpective it would be interresting if
we could make a step up in a simple cheaper design with a modern
full range driver. Its what this channel is about. Not high-end stuff.
@@karelvandervelden8819 Understood - I have done a TL design for a ~4" wideband paper cone driver. It is about half the size of this one - layout is very similar, that looks like it wouldn't even need a baffle step filter. Bass fundamental frequency is about 48Hz, if I remember correctly.
Edit: I just ordered a pair of the drivers on Amazon - $71 for the pair. As I said, the TL I designed has a slight bass rise, and therefore may not even need a baffle step compensation filter. If it works well, I'll post the plans for $25.
@@NeilBlanchard There is loads of info about it on DIYaudio.
I was just wondering wether we could simplify entry-level components.
Since audio quality/pricing in entry level has been bettered so much.
I still have lightly used Philips papercone 9710M drivers for
a fun project. (open baffle ?)
Seems like an awesome sounding speaker. Sadly most of us aren't going through the trouble of putting this thing together.
@@JACT1101 Rude reply to a lazy comment and I appreciate videos like this that inspired people to think outside the box or in this case build their own box. Have a blessed day. Try to stay positive in this world of harshness.
Thanks Much !
Cannibal Corpse Eviseration Plague. Good for bass test 👍
Looks like a cool design but I feel like $100 is pretty step if its just the plans when PE and Madisound sell their kits at a parts discount. On the other hand if you start making flat packs and/or crossover boards, something that adds unique value that would justify buying into this. Otherwise there are plenty of really good designs available for free or one the several kits from PE, Madisound, ect that are cheaper than the sum of their parts.
Diy makes most sense if you go for very complex large enclosures as this is not economical to do automated and to ship. So subs make sense to do in diy. As an experiment, it's cool to experiment with cheap drivers
@@Stan_the_Belgian Totally agree if you have the means to build large and/or complex cabinets is a big plus of DIY as its gets prohibitively expensive for manufactures to build and ship large well-built speakers.
Most of what I've built has been small two-ways but I'm as much into it as a creative outlet as value proposition. That said I have built a crazy overbuilt 12" sub and 8" towers that would been well into four figures retail.
I’m always ready for Cannibal Corpse
Sweet!
I've seen Cannibal Corpse live. Awesome show.
Anybody built these yet? Thoughts?
That’s not an illumination device , it’s the Ultimate Nullifier
It's called a stand mount speaker.
Exactly! 🙂
I love MLTL's, just don't have the woodworking skills to build them. I wish his upcoming flatpacks were in baltic birch instead of MDF.
I beg to differ about it being a bookshelf speaker, it’s more than large enough to be a stand mount speaker, even on the floor.
Right - standmount is the right name; but bookshelf is the most familiar. Who *actually* puts speakers on a bookshelf, when you think about it?
I'm interested in why you never do a review of some older speakers, eg 10 years old, and compare them to newer ones. Many people still buy second-hand speakers and it would do them good to hear a professional opinion.
Wait a minute ... inches .. what is that ..? We got no inches here in Europe... !
I heard that speakers builded with the metric system sounds better .. An audiophile said it to me .. ! 😅
The MLTL-6 has metric dimensions too! 226.5mm wide x 406.4mm deep x 546.1mm high
The drawings are in inches and millimeters.
Ha-ha! 😀 Sure we do! - I actually have an old yardstick with Danish and British inches (not the same) as well as metric cm 🙂
Thanks brother I’d buy of you
Well since you like to plant ideas in Neil’s brain and you have a pair of Wharfedale Denton 80th. How’s about a crossover upgrade while I get a garage built so I can build a kit.. You know just to tide me over
SITH Audio is getting too expensive.
Yeah, that’s not
a bookshelf speaker.. If you cut it in half it will be ..🤣
Get off ur asses and save some money and earn some pride! To be a bit blunt. There should be a much larger Market for diy speakers but i guess it just seems intimidating and time consuming. You know the reward is worth it cuz you've built one.
I went to school with one of the members of cannibal corpses.
Where's the speaker? Where's the crossover? Where are the drivers? I see you but I don't see what you are talking about. More pictures of what you are describing please. I mean, I love you and your face a lot, but I wouldn't totally mind if you reversed the amount of screen time between you and the items you're describing. Love you though, love your show.
My long and detailed reply got nixed, it seems? You can see a lot of images and details using the link to my website, that CAM posted above.
100$ for a manual....
There's an old phrase - it's not having the piece of chalk, it's knowing where to put the mark.
Neil is u
Charging $100 for a DIY design is 4 - 6 times as much as most designs for sale. Your friend would be better off dropping the price to $20 - $25 which would probably result in selling many more designs.
Designing a mass loaded transmission line speaker is a *lot* more work, than designing a sealed or ported speaker. Even with very powerful and sophisticated acoustic modeling software, I spent over 50 hours over several months designing the cabinet. It was many, many iterative changes to both the acoustic model, and to the CAD drawing at the same time; to be sure what I would be building was what the computer was modeling.
I build two pairs of prototypes, with the two different tweeters, and made a major revision to both crossovers. I then built the third pair, that were the speakers that CAM reviewed. Each pair of speakers took me about a week to build. I had to document the entire build process, and write up everything, and make drawings and CAD files. I had to work through how to construct the cabinets, with both hand tools, and CNC.
All in all, the design/build process was about 8 months of work.
The background HF noise in Randy's videos... Wtf.
I don't know, did you? Why are you asking viewers to answer a question you know the answer to???
Madisound has many overpriced drivers
Man I just mad this enclosure and put the drivers and crossover from a pair of B&W 601 S3s and I swear for rock music in particular they are better than me Magnepan.7s with subs