Digital vs Analog: Please don't waste your money
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Get professional PCBs for low prices from www.pcbway.com -~-
Digital vs Analog: Please don't waste your money
In this video we go over analog, vs digital signals and talk about why no one needs a $200 HDMI cable.
If you are shopping for electronic components, test gear or consumables please consider visiting my Amazon shop @ www.amazon.com/shop/learnelec....
Please check out www.patreon.com/learnelectronics and pledge a dollar if you can. It will go a long way to keeping the channel alive. It costs a bit of money to buy all the items and produce these videos. You help is appriciated.
Or....if you'd like to send a one-time donation you can use this link: paypal.me/learnelectronics
FAQ:
Me: Paul, 49 from USA
Education: United States Navy, University of California at San Diego B.S. E.E., University of Pittsburgh M.S. E.E.
Experience: United States Navy STS, Bayer Intnl Process Engineer
Current: Teaching college freshmen electrical engineering at a small community college in the Pittsburgh Area.
Health: BAD (Congestive Heart Failure)
Hobbies: Electronics, flying, amateur radio, music (classic rock) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I thought this was gonna be about analog vs digital oscilloscopes.
He only has that one so
@Jorne,..
Lol,..So did I.
Me to lol , It's Dissappointing
Meeeee toooo
lol same
Then you throw in that HDMI uses balanced differential signaling. So any induced noise on the lines is cancelled out at the receiver.
Yep. When an HDMI cable doesn’t work, it’s usually totally dead or annoyingly intermittent because of a broken conductor.
There are bad cables out there that do degrade a digital signal to the point where the receiving end won't properly recognise what has been sent. But that will mostly happen due to bandwidth limitations, dampening or interference through improper shielding. HDMI has introduced several standards over time, just like the CAT system for ethernet cables. You don't have to buy the super expensive stuff but if your TV set needs HDMI 1.3c, you'd better not connect it with a 1.1 standard 😊
Great video, I am into building amplifiers and I never realized this until you explained it in this way, I am learning so much about electronics from your videos, keep them coming,,, nice job...
Good point Paul. I have a friend that works at Best Buy and she told me that the mark up on hdmi cables is insane. I bet if Best Buy had a $200 cable that the store got it for about $8. It that bad people. Thanks for the video, nice job as always.
That was just a class way of explaining the difference 👏👌
Nice vid. Subbed. Keep making stuff like this!!
Very useful advice! Thanks a lot!!!!
After watching 5 videos I finally understand the difference between analogl and digital signal, good information thank you for this informative video.
My dad spent about 40 quid on an hdmi cable "with internet" from Currys (a UK electrical shop). I have no idea what an internet hdmi cable was. Anyway, I told him to return it to the shop and get his money back, which he did. I then fished out an hdmi cable that I had in a draw that cost about a tenth of the price. Needless to say, the cheapo cable works completely fine.
Well, some cheap cables doesn't have some pins connected, and some cannot preform very well over the greater distance.
Same apply for displayport cables.
So yeah don't buy cheapest cable, but do not buy overpriced too. Get a cable from well known brand and you will be just fine.
My tired eyes & ears can't tell much difference nowadays. My wallet can, though. I still use a 30 mHz analog scope, VTVM's and even an old school "analog" TV antenna on the roof. I even prefer my old TS-520 to my shiny new Alinco ham radio...
I am a noobie and I've only found out what an IC was today, I wasn’t even sure what an oscilloscope did. Thank you for the video explaining.
I hope your son is OK.
Son is well, thanks for asking.
Thanks for sharing your videos and knowledge. Stay safe and well 😊🇺🇸
hey sir, thanks for the information, that outro though was seriously sick,
Thanks another informative video. Thanks also for explaining the +3 1/2 V and the -3 1/2 V as being on and off. I’m new to this and learn something from every video on this subject matter that you post. I’ve also belong to a few groups offering classes. Thanks for everything that you share. So I believe you are saying an analog signal with its abnormalities no matter where the waveform is shown will show those abnormalities all the time. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I’ll go through your playlist for other videos. Thank You. I purchased the touchscreen smaller unit you gave a review on a previous video but thinking of upgrading. Touchscreen really doesn’t work with big meat hooks like mine. You like the siglet scope? Thanks very much again 🇺🇸👍 I’ve also just reviewed your store so anything I purchase will be through your link or one of your video recommendations. Trust is everything. Do you recommend a 2ch or 4ch? I’m also taking automotive electronics courses. 😃🇺🇸
Nice video! But as a long time home theatre enthusiast, I need to tell you that it isn’t quite as clear-cut as you suggest.
I agree that you generally don’t need to spend $200 on a HDMI cable, but I’d be very wary of a cheap $8 cable. Cable length is also a factor.
Let me explain:
Although the cable is carrying a digital (on/off) signal, the frequencies involved are quite high (eg. up to 165Mhz for HDMI 1.0 @ 1080p).
A cheap cable, with inadequate shielding and possibly higher resistance low grade copper conductors, will (without question) cause noise levels and slew rate issues which can result in the occasional incorrect binary levels being sampled (in effect, data errors).
These occasional “bit” errors manifests themselves in pixel errors, which can indeed be seen! An example is what I like to refer to as “sparklies” in the image.
Whether you actually notice these pixel errors / sparklies, depends on factors like screen size, and how attuned you are to noticing picture quality issues.
Being digital simply means that you want a cable that is of sufficient quality that it always exactly replicates the high frequency stream of 1’s & 0’s from one end to the other. Unfortunately, I’ve experienced many "budget" HDMI cables that simply can’t reliably and consistently achieve that!
So don’t just buy the cheapest cable, especially with longer cable lengths! Instead go for a trusted brand, and pay what you consider is actually reasonable, and in proportion with your overall system cost! Just don’t go crazy trying to save a few dollars by buying the cheapest “digital” cable you can find, on the flawed simplistic argument that “it will either work or it won’t"!
With digital there are usually three scenarios:
- It doesn't work.
- It works with visible artefacts and freezes.
- It works perfectly.
It's unlikely it works perfectly and then you only see a small artefact now an then.
When it's not working perfectly it's usually very noticeable.
Very true.!
So true. Go for the cable that can handle the signals. As a pro A/V installer I can tell you it isn’t black and white. Zero or One. Every type of HDMI signal has its bandwidth. Just like network cables: a CAT3 cable will handle higher bandwidth signals, but for a very vert short distance. A CAT7 cable will transfer the same signal a much much longer distance. Cables have to able to cope with this required bandwidth. An old HDMI 1.0 1080p/60 signal will be fine with a short length cheap cable, but this cable will definitely not handle the modern 4K HDR or Dolby Vision/TrueHD signals. It’s all about bandwidth. So cheap badly shielded, badly balanced, thin cables will ruin the signal. And an overpriced marketing cable can be just as bad. My rule of thumb is to follow the standard (HDMI 1, 2, 3, etc.)
When i bought out first hdmi tv and i asked for a cheap hdmi cable, i was told by the sales person, "we dont do cheap cables it degrades the picture to the tv". I replied, "its a digital signal, it either it gets it or it doesnt, theres nothing in between"
Isnt there also a check ditgit on hdmi do it can even get a wrong signal and it will be corrected by the TV?
You're exactly right. It either works perfectly or it doesn't work at all.
shitty hdmis can give purple sparkles on a picture and can be unreliable in longer runs, but decent hdmis can still be had for under £10
@@themonkeydrunken why do i have bad noise in the blacks with a cheap 20m hdmi cable from pc to tv.......?
@@Arvidje - It turns out that long cables can cause enough impedance mismatch, crosstalk and reflection that it will affect the digital signal. It turns out that all electrons move through the wires in an 'analog world' but for short distances any twisted pair HDMI cable will work. As the cable gets longer then the cross-talk noise gets worse and impedance mismatch of the cable begins to produce reflective noise which you see in the black areas as noise. Sometimes you can add a Ferrite Core around the cable to reduce high frequency noise. I have bought these at Radio Shack and used them on long (20' +) USB cables which would not work reliably until I added a Ferrite Core clamped around the cable. If you loop the cable twice thru the Ferrite Core it will double the filtering effects of the Ferrite Core.
thanks bro... very helpful...
Thanks for this advice video
Nice info thank you
Thank you sir you are the BEST.
Wow Paul I thought my dad was nuts for spending $25 on an HDMI cable but then found out he had a gift card. Spending more than 100 is insane and good for u to step up and educate him!!
Thanks for sharing and demonstration. I would like to add that the quality of the cable does make a huge difference.. if the digital signal has a high frequency and the cable wires are for example not twisted and/ or not shielded you will quickly find out that the nice on / off signal does not look nice anymore at the other end of the cable. Same for incorrect impedance which will mess up your high frequency signal significantly.. I don't think you can just say: digital signals don't require any special cables.. that's wrong... Ethernet will not work if you use normal flat /untwisted telephone cable either..
If a HDMI cable is certified for a particular version, that means the cable meets the requirements and can handle the bandwidth. If an expensive piece of equipment has hdmi 2.0 and a receiver has hdmi 2.0, there is absolutely no reason to think an expensive cable would do a better job than a normal cable for the communication between the two ports. Both cables transfer the signal and the signal is translated the same way on both ends. An inexpensive cable is also shielded, twisted, etc. Digital signals normally have no need for special treatment. Just the specifications will do just fine.
@@gilbertcuoco that is true indeed. I guess if the cable can be returned I would certainly try the cheap versions first.
Unfortunately I did find HDMI cables on eBay and other wholesale channels which claim to be HDMI 2.0 and certainly did not work reliable. A signal being digital does not mean the characteristics of that cable can be ignored. Characteristics such as impedance and shielding. Those can impact the digital signal enormously.
@@onnobeckerhof5790 True. There are manufacturers that cut corners. But normally when a cable is certified, you should be able to trust that that is the case. Of course not always when they come from Ali Express, Alibaba, etc. ;-).
I have used many cheap HDMI cables and have never had an issue so far. I always try to keep the cable length as short as possible to lower chances of any data loss. In the past with analog any loss of signal would reduce signal quality drastically. Also any out side RF signal that get's into the data stream will cause faulty signals.
Glad someone else has the same take on over selling of the "HD" hype and understands the madness of people thinking they need more expensive cables, TV antennas etc. I watched a television advert the other day selling "HD" sunglasses! Bonkers!
in the early 90s the word cyber was everywhere, now everthing is hd lol
What kind of oscilloscope should I get . I’m on a strict budget lol. Any help is appreciated ty.
So why pick the siglent over the Rigol 1054z? My partner got me the Rigol and I love that 4 ch action. Granted I have not needed four channels yet but you never know.
That story is s perfect example of what I call "More money than sense"
Yeah, I really didn't need a tutorial about HDMI cables or digital signals. I was hoping for a video about oscilloscopes. My mistake.
The only reason then not to go with the absolute cheapest is build quality, just make sure they are built to last with good screening.
Well the really cheap ones can actually get "noisy" when the inside conductors stop sharing one of those on or off signals, this has happened to me twice and i saw some red lines at screen, but still working absolutely fine till i have to disconnect them and messed them up
There is one exception to this, which is long HDMI cables. Do not buy a dirty cheap 10m cable, because I can guarantee you that you'll have issues either immediately, or after several months (which is hell if you put it in a wall or something). And this also depends on the bandwidth, e.g. I wouldn't even buy a cheap 5m cable if it's for 4K, and for the new HDMI 2.1? Last I checked no reputable brand even sells them over 2-3m yet. When you want to send a signal, analog or digital, over those sort of lengths, the quality of the conductors (thickness, whether they're pure copper (e.g. copper clad aluminium causes *so* many issues with ethernet), etc), the quality of the insulation, whether that holds up around sharp bends, etc etc all matter.
I'm not saying you should spend $200, but if you go with the cheapo cable don't be surprised if it fails. reddit/Amazon/etc are full of people who have issues with cheap (or even expensive) longer cables. If you need to go really long, you should consider buying a fibre HDMI cable. Those change the signal to optical and back, so distance doesn't really matter. E.g. we needed to install three 4K 60hz HDR cables in our wall + ceiling, and they had to be 20m, so we just went with three fibre cables from three different decent quality brands (we only need two and could make do with one, so one/two spare). Some issues with fibre HDMI cables though is the lack of power HDMI puts out, so I would suggest people get the ones which have USB power on each end, else you get issues with some devices which don't put out enough power to feed the optical converter.
Good quality HDMI cables for $5 at Ocean State Job Lot. Several to choose from with slightly different specs.
The only time it matters what kind of digital cable you get is if you're wanting to send something like 4K video to a 4K display device. In those cases, you don't need a more expensive cable necessarily - but you do need to have an HDMI 1.4 cable or better. The 1.3 cables max out at 60Hz at 1080P. They'll still work as far as getting an image on your display - but you'll be limited to lower resolutions is all. I believe DisplayPort also has a few different revisions that support varying degrees of image quality depending on the revision.
the video should have been about the difference between expensive low noise harmonized HDMI cables and ordinary cables... and maybe, similarly, johnson/nyquist noise and the application
👏..BRAVO....THANK..YOU....
The only thing i would worry about is shielding and some really cheap chinese cables with low quality, oxidized metal. Same for analog AV cables. Just finished re-cabling my home cinema with mogami cables - good quality and not prohibitively expensive. No need for snake oil-level expense. As long as they have good, tight coax shielding, OFC copper and quality materials you're good to go
A couple of my friend have spent £50 plus on HDMI cables, they don't like it when you point out you can get the same lead with the same tech for less than £10.
The only thing to consider is radiated electrical noise on very long cable runs when run alongside the mains cable... otherwise I agree that there is no point in spending stupid money of cables.
Cheaper cables mean smaller gauge wire that translate to higher resistance, also not as well shielded for noise. This is only a problem on long runs closer to 100ft. So buy cheap, try it out, if it doesn't work buy a bit better one. The main thing to look for is wire gauge.
My AV rack got real picky with the new TV. I had a time swapping out HDMI cables trying to find 3 that would behave well with the various devices. No reason to spend big $ on cabkes, but don't get the cheapest either. Hit up Amazon or Monoprice. With Monster et al you're paying for the name and marketing.
I've seen fiber HMDI runs cost $1,200 but that is very specialized. We don't know the specifics, for example, was it in wall? Plenum rated cables are quite a bit more than normal. You can I can get away with an $8 cable in a wall but a contractor must use fire rated cable. Was it a RapidRun brand multiuse cable? SlimRun? Fiber/copper hybrid ready to handle optical in the future? Etc etc etc. Anyway... 1. Do we trust someone who can't read the waveform levels on their oskilliscope? 2. Having installed dozens of systems in corporate and education settings, and troubleshooting systems installed by others that were not working well, or were working fine then started having problems, I can say cheap cables suck on a regular basis. Buy 20 and one may not work right out of the box, another may work but be flaky, and two more can start acting up after time. A brand that may be OK in a 2 meter length may be horrible in a 5 meter length since the longer the cable, the greater the signal is affected by poor quality. How about a cable that has crappy impedance which weakens the signal to where your digital peaks are near the threshold of what the equipment considers a digital bit high, or distorts or breaks the waveform with a loose connection? How about "gold plating" or what should be nickel plating under the gold is so flaky the conductors start to corrode over time? I could go on and on but hopefully people get the idea.
Thanks for sharing this maybe people will start to believe this
Hmmm would not be so sure there are higher and lower bandwidth cables. How do I know? I have a monitor with very high resolution and only high quality more expensive HDMI cables work with that resolution. Now if you have the standard 1080p resolution then sure enough any cheap HDMI cable should do it, though it will make difference when you need to use a longer cable than your typical 6 feet
Indeed, u will get digital noise in the blacks
What was a source of this digital signal?
If hdmi is all the same “on or off” why don’t cheep cables display a clear 4K 60hrz? I mean I’ve gotten the to work but input lag on games and tearing is an issue until I use correct spec high speed hdmi don’t get me wrong $200 is highway robbery you can get a high speed hdmi that’s sufficient for $50 but any amazon basic hdmi really does look much worse and now I’m more confused than ever as to why
The snake oil industry offers many ways to burn money. Thank you! :-)
The only thing I would look for in terms of quality in cables for digital signals is simply the strength and robustness of the cable, but that's not even all that important for a tv, unless you're constantly moving your tv arround and plugging and unplugging cables.
Hate to chime in here so late, but I thought we were going to see some Siglent scope comparisons.. but after hearing you complain about good quality cables costing more, I had to add. First, there is a difference.. I hope you've figured that out over the past 5 years tho. After figuring out you didn't even have a jig or comparison of the different cables, I was confused.
I'm an RF technician and we can tell you all about signal propagation through conductors and dielectrics... and I think the part that eludes you is what is involved to make this difference. I have a phase-stable cable for my Anritsu site master, that 2m cable alone is worth over a thousand bucks! To a lay-man, that cable looks like a 2m RF cable with a couple of N connectors on it.. but there's more to it, and that is the same with A/V cables. I can see the difference in a picture with cheap cables ringing and accepting crosstalk from other signals within the cable shield. So unless you have a jig and appropriate signal generator, there is nothing you can say about which is better without guessing by appearance.
well said.So true.
If you are transmit 4K signals to your tv from your PC I doubt it is possible to use a cheap cable. It is also stated that you need another class or quality cable. I have also seen sprarkling pixels om my 4K tv, for I am still using a cheap cable.
Do you understand a vídeo signal is made of millions of these pulses signals per second?
Also, there are error correcting algorithms, so you only see errors when enough pulses are lost.
Why would you think the cable would be good enough to transmit billions and billions of these pulses for hours, and then it would fail to transmit a bunch of pulses so you see a "sparkling pixel"?
I hope your son gets well soon and goes back to playing video games in his room
What about induced EMF from surrounding equipment. Obviously the HDMI cable needs to be well shielded. Maybe $200 of shielding is a bit excessive. What about voltage drop over distance due to cable impedance. And what about cross talk between each wire in the cable.
Joshua Axford I do agree with you on that. Bi ahve a cheap 25' cable that doesn't work without a booster and a quality one that works without. Iys not $200, good though I'm not quite the baller like Pauls family!
Actually there is a difference of a cheap and good cable.
By your description, I dont need Cat6 cabling, I could use good old flat silver 8C cable on my network. And yes I use 8C flat for my switch interconnects of 1ft or less. but at 20ft, signal just dies?
The truth: cable quality, shielding, impedance, capacitance, wire gauge.
I use USB cables with active boosters in the lab, why? same reasons.
I hate to say it, but someone with a $260 scope (that will mask a lot of issues) doing cable tests is not a valid test, use a more powerful scope along with two cables, your cheap one, and a good one, then compare the difference.
Correct, you need a scope with 10 times the bandwidth of the highest frequencies you are analyzing to be sure the scope is not affecting the waveform excessively. To look at 10 MHz Ethernet signals you would need a 100 MHz scope, at 100 MHz signal you would need a 1 GHz scope. That's why HP and Tektronix are still in business for high speed signal measurements
I had to go back and look but I got a 3 pack from Amazon "Gold Plated" for $8.99. They obviously don't appreciate the resource they have in the family. But then again if they have money falling out their pockets, why should they care. Except to give you $200 for your Amazon cable! Thanks for the good laugh!
Thank you Sir, you've definitely saved us from snake oil cables!!
Can you make videos about bandwidth these stuff harder to understand
I could see it possible that the noise is so bad that the device reads it as on? I mean that would be some incredible noise tho
I'm an RF engineer and I will just say this,
IF it's OK for the signal to transmit with wireless system with decent result (such as watching TH-cam with WiFi) than chances are the cheapest cable on the market that's properly made can get the job done for the same distance with absolutely no problem and no human detectable error whatsoever.
Any wireless transmission is at least ten thousand times worse than worst copper wired transmission and with any distance the wireless signal can easily be trillion times worse, if RF connection can do the job than any copper can do it. it's simple physics.
Don't forget that digital systems can also transmit symbols rather than simple bits, so having a larger bandwidth will help if the symbol rate is high, although there's still modulation techniques in place to help with this.
It's still all bits, and almost everything is serial these days, because parallel is a waste of resources in most cases.
I wanted to see an actual graph of real life time representation of a analog vs digital signal. Other videos don’t show this.
Paul, pal, and you know it gets even WORSE! No, not the signal you get on your cheapo "Dollar Club" HDMI cable, but a quick check on Amazon (And google) shows cables (2m) for $1495.95 and other places selling "high-end" HDMI cables for $4,000 even. Yep, but it's a shame and it's true: "A fool and his money are soon parted." Now I DO understand how people can be conned into this nonsense, but it's criminal that there are sharks out there taking advantage of people who really do not understand neither digital or analog, and how they work. (And if you go to Amazon you'll find that those cables get darn good ratings. BUT, it's because the "reviews" are just smart people making jokes about how "My pixels are now perfectly square!" and "I lost 20 POUNDS using these cables!" So on. They're worth the read.)
:)
Ok, I think I need to rethink my career path. Super-duper HDMI cables. Guaranteed on and off signalling, only $999. Lol
Hum yes ok I basically agree however the cheap ones will likely start to show problems if the length increases due to the capacitance and inductance of the cable. As these variables increase the signal will not be able to go from 0 to 5v as quickly and if it gets to the point where the signal is going faster than can be reliably transferred along the cable then you are going to get digital errors. So I wouldn't write off more expensive cables in all situations
Huge niche in analog now 🙌💸💸💸💸💸💸💸
If you need larger resolution at the same or better refresh rate, you'll need a better cable tho. (definetly not a 200bucks one anyway)
Though I agree that $200 HDMI cables are a scam, there is no way every $8 cable is the same quality as every $40 cable. Especially with 4K. Often better HDMI cables has boost circuitry in them, or just better internal connectors and stability. Digital is digital, but not all cables are made equal.
Unexpected Maker I agree on both sides of it. To Paul's point, 90 percent of the time it would not matter. HOWEVER, If say you have a longer run like I do from a server closet to my living room, the voltage drop of the crap cable will make the "ONs" not register as on and the signal drop. So to your point, not all the time these cheap cables will work. I was able to overcome it with a HDMI booster, but as Big Clive would say "it's kinda jenky"...but it worked.
If an inexpensive HDMI cable works at all, then it will work exactly as well as any other cable that works at all. I run dozens of cheap HDMI cables and not one of them has ever failed to deliver.
I've had quite a few cheap ones that were terrible. Bending them near the cable end stopped the picture from displaying. I'm not saying all cheap cables are bad.. and on the flip side, you can get faulty expensive cables, but I've had personal experience with bad cheap HDMI cables, so I'll stand by my statement.
I reckon buying a reasonable cable that won't fail because of loose connections etc will still be a fairly cheap purchase compared to the ridiculously priced, so called 'high end', cables!
Unexpected Maker yeah totally agree they are not all made equal but they will either work or not work the difference in cost is usually the quality of the assembly.
The explanation is only about voltage levels though. But, what kills you with these though is crappy slew rate on degraded cable plus more demands for more signal. if those square boxes he showed had tome gaps that are only 1/4 the duration of high sections, you would see weird garbage on your screen when you hook up too many monitors and run heavy 3D graphics for example.
That's exactly what "overclocking" is - sure you can run faster, but those small transition blips will turn into errors in binary value instead of "doesn't matter noise"
agreed,my china cables work great ..$2.00..
heck yeah recently I just got my 10 m HDMI cable for just $2.5 and it works really well lol
I've seen cables so cheap that they can't reliably transfer a digital signal. Especially if they are very long. But in general, any decent cable will do.
I think the HDMI cable is related to the SPEED of the signal.
I bought a 3 dollar HDMI to HDMI cable.
I works just fine. Full HD image
there is no better on, and no better off ! :D
200$ for HDMI cable. Really? That's very expensive. If you have a friend which can explain to you difference between cheap and expensive cable is it good, but not all have such a friend. Thanks for the video.
Have some mercy with the nice dealer making money with golden cables
the digital noise that is clearly visible ~might~ become an issue if it ever passes a threshold
Possible that it could be an issue but very unlikely as long as the SNR isn't too high. That's what error handling is for.
This is likely not due to the cable, but due to poor quality of the power supply on whatever transmits the signal. Whatever it was, it was tested to ensure the switching noise from the PSU doesn't cross the threshold. And even if it did, it would fail the checksum on the receiving end and you'd get no signal at all
Sampling rate prolly?
The old "best buy monster cable" scam. There’s a sucker born every minute. There was a class action lawsuit against best buy that resulted in customers getting some of their money back on those.
I used to work for best buy. The cables are majorly overpriced. $20 cables were more like $1 for any of the inhouse brands. Actually, any of the inhouse accessories were like that. Super high markups.
Yep, it either works perfectly, or doesn't work perfectly. And when it doesn't work perfectly it's quite noticeable.
I've seen gold-plated TOSLINK cables on Amazon...
THE SAME THING IS TRUE BUYING HD ANTENNAS BECAUSE, YOU DO NOT NEED ONE.
ALSO WHEN CD PLAYERS FIRST CAME OUT THEY SAID YOU HAD TO HAVE SPECIAL TYPE OF AMPLIPHIER AND,OR RECEIVER TO PLAY THE CD PLAYER,BECAUSE YOU DO NOT NEED ONE.
Hey man, I bought HDMI cable for 2 dollars.😎
Oversimplified explanation. I have an USB cable which randomly disconnects my PC and DAC. For pure file transfer it is okay. But for audio it is not.
cable is about transfer electrical signal
if the cable is bad it will receive wrong signal from air and work as antenna and slow down the transfer of required signal
and if bad it will not be able to carry fast signal like 4k video and it will work as a capacitor not allowing fast data to move on
I wonder how many, 'I only buy quality' snobs, have been caught out this way? To be fair, if your not techie, how would you know this is a con. The sellers (read 'conmen')have a lot to answer for!
Thanks for helping to spread the truth. I cannot believe how many are still willing to buy snake oil thinking it will really make a difference.
Well said. But you would not want to share this information with someone AFTER they had bought an expensive cable.
Supperb
I would pay an extra $100 for good quality cables where the plugs don't disintegrate after three uses. The amazon basics ones are complete trash.
dont skimp on the shielding of the cable though :P my third monitor always loses its hdmi signal when the freezer turns on in the next room lol
True. Shielding is important. But from a reputable source and you should be ok.
Dont let truth get in the way of a good HDMI cable!!!
I was worried there for a minute. I thought you were going to start trashing Siglent scope. I just bought one. Yeah the cable are a rip.
No no, the Siglent is a good economical piece of gear.
no!you're wrong! the hdmi cable differs because it has other thin cables for other signals like hdmi ARC or other signals that are useful for other communication purposes! not only digital sound that as you've greatly explained on oscilloscope.
so for this you pay extra...for othe communication purposes
Just like CompUSA trying to sell overpriced printer cables a few years ago
The guys at Bestbuy will tell you to buy the expensive HDMI cables because that is what they are told to push and if you tell them the facts, they get defensive.
There is a difference between. HDMI. cables like any thing you get what you pay for now. what you BIL paid is a bit high. but the amazon basics one is crap
I gotta get me an OS SKILLASCOPE
However without an UHD HDMI cable you are not capable to see a 4 k video. So, 15$ are often necessary for a cable.
I would like to see a comparison of a cheap cable vs a pro grade cable over longer runs. A digital signal is subject to voltage drop over long runs. Pro cables are supposed to be able to minimize this without the use of an amplifier.
More money than brains. Period.