I can't thankyou enough!!! This video has saved me sooo much money!! Me and my son had to change all four of my mounts, and we did so only because of your well documented video!! Thankyou thankyou thankyou!!!!!!
Which brand you used, I used anchor and westar for my Toyota matrix 2007 for transmission mount but holes are not lineup, anyone know any solution Thanks
@@fowad78 I did all the mounts on an Impala a while back and had problems with one lining up I eventually got it to line up though. Maybe try another approach it may not be the mounts.. I've read others say they got some good ones from rock auto..🤔 When I do get to this job I'm not spending $450 but I'm not going cheap either to avoid the vibration of cheaper mounts.
Bummed that there are no torque values in this video, but this was still super helpful, so I salute you sir. For anyone using torque values, most of the bolts securing the engine mounts to the frame (NOT the through-bolts) are 38ft-lb, with only one exception in the front lower mount. I am going to be doing all 4 mounts as well as the engine oil and CAs on my baby, so wish me luck! Torque values (at least for auto trannies in the guide that I have) FRONT LOWER MOUNT 14mm mounting bolts - 47ft• Ib 14mm through bolt - 38ft-Ib RIGHT UPPER MOUNT (HYDRAULIC) 14mm upper/lower mounting bolts - 38ft-lb NO through-bolt on this one LEFT UPPER MOUNT (TRANNY) 14mm mounting bolts - 38ft-Ib 14mm through-bolt - 59ft-Ib REAR LOWER MOUNT 14mm mounting bolts - 38ft-Ib 17mm through-bolt - 64ft•lb
On the front mount pull the cross member bolts out. There all 14mm bolts. Then you can just push the cross member to the side and pull the mount out from the bottom without having to mess with the radiator fan. I did this all under the car in 5 minutes.
We sold my wife’s car before we had to replace these but they were getting bad and they told us it would be ~$500 to get the transmission mount replaced. Although this didn’t technically didn’t save me any money, I appreciate the guide. You made it look a lot easier than $500 😂
Did the rear mount on my Matrix. All the videos said it was easier to get it in than getting it out. It was not.. it took me a good 30 mins to get it out and after multiple sessions over 2 hours I gave up putting in the new one. The shop was able to get it done, I’m pretty sure they removed the catalytic converter cover to do it. Set me back $200, but I was originally quoted $750 at another shop. So still came out better for it even with the part.
For the rear mount: Once everything is unbolted I dropped the jack supporting the engine completely and the old mount came right out and new one went right in. Didn’t even take two minutes. Then I jacked the engine back up to line up the holes for the center bolt. I thought this might help someone. Thanks for the awesome video!
Thank You for Making This Video, I Just Got My Corolla Back from The Shop The Check Engine light Came On. I Found Out That My idle Air/Speed Control Valve Assy, R&R Needed To Be Replaced And it Was Expensive to fix but I Had it Done Because I Needed My Car . But Now I Noticed Driving Home from The Mechanic Shop That Now My Steering Wheel Vibrates and Shakes A little. But Now I Gotta Wait Until I Have The Money to get it Checked And Fixed. "Ugh"... Seems like One Thing After Another!!😥😲.
Well, it's 2022 and this was still very helpful, thank you. Note: I removed the bolts for the power steering reservoir which made it easier to remove the right side mount. And it is better to remove the radiator fan shroud and just place a piece of cardboard, plywood or the like to protect the radiator.
Cool. The rear mount is different on the 4WD models, and requires that you loosen the steering rack to get the bolt that goes through the bushing out. I did three mounts so far, gotta do the R side mount. I have a 2006 Matrix 4WD with over 210,000 miles.
Very, very helpful. I just watched it again. I have 3 out of 4 so far on an 08 MT. I think I have to pull the shifter cables from the tranny to fit the mount out. I have it loose, but can't get it out.
BAD ASS how to video. This shows everything, gives experienced advice on what worked best, shows what tools are needed, and gives up close video as well as regular video distance. I couldn't have asked for a better how to video. I am a mobile mechanic with an ASE master certification and 40+ years experience. I see different cars with different problems everyday so I look to find how to vids to save time and wasted effort. Thank you for the hands down BEST how to car repair video that I've ever seen.👍👍
Is it true to say if you feel a bunch of vibration when idling, that means one or all four of the motor mounts could be bad? Awesome video by the way bro!!! 💪🙏🤙👍
That's correct. Keep in mind that *could* is the key word. There are a number of things that could cause excessive vibration, and the motor mounts are just one of the many reasons that can cause that.
Quick question, i have a pretty low corolla, I'm talking about the middle exhaust is scraping driving normally. My question is do you think it's possible to raise the engine using washers? Is there enough space?
Much appreciated. The Firestone dealer wanted $1200 to do this. The only hard one was the getting the rear mount out after the bolts were removed. I gave up on that one. I purchased the mounts on Amazon for only $80.
Excellent explanatory and demonstrational video! Not only are you very specific, but you also remind us to keep our cool and have good attitudes! Thank you so much!
This is the best " how to" car repair video I've ever seen. I'm changing motor mounts on my son's corolla, and couldn't have tackled it without this video. Thanks!
I just wanted to add, because I'm in Australia the steering column wasn't in the way, and was much easier for me to get the rear mount out. The only issue was getting the torque wrench tight enough because of the lack of space, but got there eventually. That's the only thing I did notice, that you didn't mention any torque settings for any of the bolts. But I eventually found them. Thanks again.
@@MonsieurCafe I'm so sorry I didn't know you replied to my comment. I downloaded a manual off the internet it was a zip file called Toyota Corolla 03 08 WSM. It's a bit hard to navigate but it's worth while. I'm not sure whee I found it but I hope it helps.
Just started today with the front mount, got all the way thru getting the new one in when I realized the old bracket was hella bent and was not gonna let me install the new mount so with one trip to the junkyard I’m going back at it tomorrow.
Cool. Super helpful. I have a 2006 Matrix AWD with 194k miles and just replaced battery and pulled tray for a look around and there is the busted transmission mount. Looks pretty easy to do. Did you get oem or aftermarket mounts? Also, you can place a piece of cardboard over radiator to protect it when you remove fan shroud.
The mount towards the rear (kinda “A” shaped) I absolutely did move the jack towards the rear of the transmission casing. That’s thing one I didn’t record and should have. I did mention it. It is an important detail. I was unable to get enough movement to get the bolt to go through. Find a good spot as close to that mount on the transmission, and you’ll get enough movement to get the bolt in place. 💪
My 2001 Celica needs the passenger side mount. My little shop said $330. The dealer wants $240 for the part. NAPA wants $75. Rock auto wants $30 - $70.
That was a great video. Very thorough and well explained. I'm confident now that I can do this job myself. Seriously, have you ever thought about teaching? Well done sir.
@@05kittycat1 Yes, but I should have bought the right side motor mount from the dealer. The aftermarket one I bought did not line up right. I didn’t change the rear motor/transmission mount because I don’t have a lift. It wasn’t nearly as bad as the others anyway.
I had to replace my radiator fan one summer so I knew it was easy to remove when I replaced my starter a few weeks later and nicked the radiator fins with the old starter. WHOOPS. Small leak. Time for new radiator also. Luckily a local store had one in stock. Cardboard protection would have helped. This past summer I did the rear and right mounts with he intention of doing the transmission and front mounts later. Well, a move and hurricane later they got thrown away. At least they weren't too expensive. I just have to wait till summer now. 260k+ miles on the 2005 S and it's still running good.
I have a Toyota Corolla 05’ and I just got a diagnostic check and I have so much problems and I need help with fixing it. Can you make more videos like this one! 🙏 I have a spiral cable malfunction, LF outer CV Boot torn/missing, RF inner&outer CV boot torn/flinging grease excessive movement in LF CV joint, replace both CV axles. All engine mounts tearing/collapsing, timing cover leak-5, P/S pressure & return hoses leaking -5, P/S pump leaking -4, Oil pan leak -4, Valve cover gasket leak -3.
We sold my wife’s car before we had to replace these but they were getting bad and they told us it would be ~$500 to get the transmission mount replaced. Although this didn’t technically didn’t save me any money, I appreciate the guide. You made it look a lot easier than $500 😂
For that rear mount, I actually had an easier time taking it out from the left side (on screen) of the hoses there. Took maybe 10 mins to figure that out but I had a hell of a time trying to get that center bolt back in. For some reason it just wouldnt line up right. I used a crow bar shoved in to the front of it and then a big flat head screw driver to pry it down slightly where I needed it. Very informative vid on this from you. Thank you!
Dude...great video! Got two of the mounts knocked out today, working the other two tomorrow but this video is so easy to follow! Thank you so much brother! Love the intro. Friggen hilarious!
@@05kittycat1 I bought a full set of the 4 mounts for $60 off eBay brand new. They are cheap Chinese parts so I'm not sure how long they're going to last but I believe they'll take me the last 70k that I may hopefully get out of the engine
Had vibrations when accelerating and when holding brake down when at stop light but no vibration when I kept it in neutral and no vibration when in reverse. Changed the motor mounts and the transmission mount and now the vibrations stopped but now it vibrates when only in reverse gear and briefly when I apply the brake to stop. Any ideas??
I just came from the shop and they quoted me $2,000 for all for Mounts. I came across your video so hopefully it will help me but I have a Corolla 2011 so I don’t think it will be too different. Let see. I let you know when I do the job.
Those are OEM mounts? How are they holding up? OEM prices for these mounts doubled in price since Feb, I might get OEM mounts for the firewall side and the passenger side mount which they seem more critical than the front radiator side and transaxle mount.
@ 0:45 you placed a long piece of wood/ rubber block to spread the weight on the engine, but placing it under the oil pan isn't it risky in the case here??
Not at all. The oil pan on this engine is solid enough to not cave in or get bent from lifting the engine this way. It may not be the same for larger heavier engines however.
I'm just gonna put this here for anyone else watching, my oil pan got bent from doing it this way.(07 corolla) I put the wood long ways instead of across, and I think I may have tried to raise it too much, but just so you know it can definitely happen lol. Luckily it didn't bend too much and its pretty easy to replace, not that its a big issue its just cosmetic, but yeah if you want to avoid this, I would recommend jacking it by the actual transmission instead of the oil pan.
What auto parts did you buy your engine mount from. I bought my rear mount from Part Source here in Canada but one of the bolts didn’t line up in the holes so I returned it back to the store.
We used our own parts on this one. When installing the rear mount, keep in mind that for the rear mount specifically, you will have to reposition your jack to another location. I didn't put enough emphasis on this detail in the video, but if your jack is directly under the oil pan, it will not allow you to move the engine/transmission assembly enough to get the center bolt through the rear mount.
@@araparts I tried jacking it up at different location but one of the bolts doesn’t line up to hole in the frame. It was off by almost 1/16 of an inch.The part manufacturer didn’t make right. Someone made a comment on other video that he had to grind it out to fit. Thanks for your reply.
I didn't include this part in this video unfortunately. Here is a picture of the jack and support points. The support points in this video are the pinch weld. toyotaowners.b-cdn.net/uploads/monthly_2020_09/000088.jpg.bdcb6aeefbf136c9993d1bc2c6bf4814.jpg?ToyotaOwnersClub&ForumLinks I typically jack up from the front and place my jack stands on the pinch welds. When I want to raise higher, I jack from the pinch welds with a good jack pad that doesn't bend the pinch welds. I also would only jack the car up a little at a time on each side if you are raising it up really high which you can only do with 3 ton and bigger jack stands. I don't have a jacking image for this specific car, but there are points in the front and rear where you can jack the car up. I recommend using a jack pad that has the pinch weld support to prevent bending the pinch weld. If you bend the pinch weld, don't worry - just bend it back. Take some time to find a good jack pad that fit your jack well.
I Really Enjoy Watching your Video, I Went To The Dealer To find Out How Much To Replace My Motor Mounts And if They Replace All Four With Labor it Will Cost Me $ 2,900. For Everything. That's Crazy!! I'm Going To Keep Checking Around for A Better Deal.
I wish u were in QLD 4118 Australia si that I can coem to u for all my TOYOTA servicing. Here our car mechanics r not TRUSTWORTHY like u But on Friday as I was coming home I stopped at a7-11Servo where I saw an AC mechanic He showed me like u r doing the correct way to use yr internal car cabin switches
Thank u mate for showing to RENEWToyota Engine mounts which i am doing similar in Australia a; for the last few days n I do not have the GENUINE Toyota mounts. n the mechanic used a second-grade mount I have a 2006 Toyota YARIS auto 5 dr hatch
@@-darrell @@-darrell fully installed. Dealership bought. Was more easier than I thought. Most challenging part was lifting the transmission to level it to insert middle bolt. Rough idle 99% gone. Old mount was completely broken apart and demolished when I removed it. I got lucky. I Also changed my fuel injector seals. They were leaking. 05 matrix running real smooth now.. Will be Replacing lower control arms next!
Use oil pan for right and front mount. Support on transmission for transmission mount and for the rear mount, you want to move your jack near the rear of the transmission. As close to the mount as possible
We see an average life of around 5 years. Some sooner, some later. There are a lot of factors: Driving style is a big one. Climate is another. The Right hand mount in front of the timing cover carries most of the weight and will always wear much faster than the rest of the mounts.
@@araparts Great! thanks for the fast reply! my 04 Corolla has 203000KM, I can bet they were never changed so I think I have a project on my hands! Thanks again boss!
Hi, we had exhaust replaced (including converter) on my wife's 2007 Vibe. After the new converter installed, the Vibe developed some vibration. There was check engine light and my wife brought the car back to the garage. The garage then told us the motor mounts needed to be replaced. We agreed, as the vibration was quite noticeable and even damaged the new exhaust. All mounts were replaced. After the mount replacement, an oil leak happened, that required a new valve gasket. Now after 2300 $ bill the car vibrates terribly and rambles loudly in reverse, and in Drive, when idle, at a stop and in slower speeds. There is also some knocking when driving and the car does not stay driving, gas pedal has to be constantly pushed. The garage basically gave us the car saying they cannot do anything else to improve the vibration. It however keeps damaging things, even the trunk rattles now and the doors and windows as well. Any idea if we can save the car?
Wow, that's a lot of stuff going on after they worked on the car. I would take it to a second place for a different opinion. The 2007 Vibe 1.8L is a well built car overall and they're never complicated enough to not be saved.
Go underneath the car and make sure all the mount bolts are tight.. I made this mistake with the front mount and it vibrated and rattled like crazy! I only drove about 3ft when I caught it..
And pull your coil packs and check your plugs and make sure there is no oil on them.. I found oil on the #1 plug about 3 months after I replaced the valve cover. I'm not sure why that happened but its been okay since. It was causing a vibration but didn't illuminate the check engine light.
Also jack up the front wheels and use jackstands on both sides and do an inspection of all the bolts on the motor mount and anything else you see you should be able track down the knocking noise.. Normally a stuck brake caliper will cause the car not to coast while not pressing the accelerator pedal. It sounds like the shop messed up somewhere... Older Corollas do tend to have a slight vibration and a little engine noise that is normal.
@@RicardoSilvas-uq6wn thank you for your input. We are concerned that while the shop was replacing the mounts they damaged either the engine or transmission. I am 1500 miles away and my wife is trying to get diagnostics in town she currently is in, and we had already poor experience with GM dealership there(long story).One private place associated with Napa, kept the car twice for a day, and did nothing (scheduled for 9 am , she got the car back at 4 pm) no charge, they sent her back to the same shop that did all major work. Update. She had the same shop to replace spark plugs. She also noticed the air intake tube was loose and just banging behi d the battery (it used to be fastened at the headlight ) and got them to get it screwed back in...They claim they cleaned MAF and throttle body. Strange smell like burning persists at drivers side and sewing machine noise also. Louder towards the bottom of the engine drivers side. Hesitation and struggle when accelerating from stop signs...She also said it seems there is some vibration and noise in neutral.
This was a friends car. It has over 400k miles and it's very well taken care of. I only noticed a minimal improvement, even though all of the mounts had noticeable wear and (literal) tears. Though I didn't drive the car very far myself. Didn't notice any knocking noises, etc.
I had the jack supporting the engine, but it doesn’t move much when removing the front mount. It’s best to have the jack just in case the engine shifts a little. It’ll make it easier to line up the center through bolt on the front mount.
I'm like 99% sure this is my old coworker messing with me lol, but in case it isn't, I'll still answer this with some knowledge. Solid steel mounts would be considered performance parts. Most performance mounts are polyurethane, there are a few cars that have used solid steel mounts as upgrades (believe it or not) like the CTS-V. We don't have performance mounts at the moment, but plan on carrying them in the future.
It's similar. Keep in mind that none of these mounts are cross compatible with the 2014 model year, but they are still designed similarly to this model year and the job will be similar, but not the same.
I can't thankyou enough!!! This video has saved me sooo much money!! Me and my son had to change all four of my mounts, and we did so only because of your well documented video!! Thankyou thankyou thankyou!!!!!!
Hello how are your mounts doing? I am thinking of purchasing these for mine
Would also like to know how they held up
@@05kittycat1 they are absolutely fine. 🙂
Thx for the video. It really helps. Tomorrow I will start all 4 mounts on an 09 Vibe GT
Me hubiera encantado ver el antes y el después que tanto vibraba y como quedó pero es lo que hay gracias como quiera.
What brand are the mounts you got? Are they feeling like factory, any vibration?
great tutorial video. How many miles does that corolla have?
Too expensive to get a shop to replace them so off to do it myself😂
Hello @araparts where are the best jacking points for this job?
great video!!!!!
Replacing the mounts on a 2005 with 365k miles... in michigan. All of them will probably be seized.
Oh yeah that's for sure. I'd prepare to use heat or spray them days in advance with a penetrating oil.
Which brand you used,
I used anchor and westar for my Toyota matrix 2007 for transmission mount but holes are not lineup, anyone know any solution
Thanks
Did you ever get them to fit or did you have to go with another brand🤔
@@rashaadswanson6687
I used an others brand but same issue
Will buy OEM from Toyota but it’s cost around 450$
@@fowad78 I did all the mounts on an Impala a while back and had problems with one lining up I eventually got it to line up though. Maybe try another approach it may not be the mounts.. I've read others say they got some good ones from rock auto..🤔 When I do get to this job I'm not spending $450 but I'm not going cheap either to avoid the vibration of cheaper mounts.
Bummed that there are no torque values in this video, but this was still super helpful, so I salute you sir. For anyone using torque values, most of the bolts securing the engine mounts to the frame (NOT the through-bolts) are 38ft-lb, with only one exception in the front lower mount. I am going to be doing all 4 mounts as well as the engine oil and CAs on my baby, so wish me luck!
Torque values (at least for auto trannies in the guide that I have)
FRONT LOWER MOUNT
14mm mounting bolts - 47ft• Ib
14mm through bolt - 38ft-Ib
RIGHT UPPER MOUNT (HYDRAULIC)
14mm upper/lower mounting bolts - 38ft-lb
NO through-bolt on this one
LEFT UPPER MOUNT (TRANNY)
14mm mounting bolts - 38ft-Ib
14mm through-bolt - 59ft-Ib
REAR LOWER MOUNT
14mm mounting bolts - 38ft-Ib
17mm through-bolt - 64ft•lb
👍
On the front mount pull the cross member bolts out. There all 14mm bolts. Then you can just push the cross member to the side and pull the mount out from the bottom without having to mess with the radiator fan. I did this all under the car in 5 minutes.
We sold my wife’s car before we had to replace these but they were getting bad and they told us it would be ~$500 to get the transmission mount replaced. Although this didn’t technically didn’t save me any money, I appreciate the guide. You made it look a lot easier than $500 😂
It cost $500 BECAUSE he made it look easy 🙄
Did the rear mount on my Matrix. All the videos said it was easier to get it in than getting it out. It was not.. it took me a good 30 mins to get it out and after multiple sessions over 2 hours I gave up putting in the new one. The shop was able to get it done, I’m pretty sure they removed the catalytic converter cover to do it. Set me back $200, but I was originally quoted $750 at another shop. So still came out better for it even with the part.
For the rear mount: Once everything is unbolted I dropped the jack supporting the engine completely and the old mount came right out and new one went right in. Didn’t even take two minutes. Then I jacked the engine back up to line up the holes for the center bolt. I thought this might help someone.
Thanks for the awesome video!
Thank you for sharing this! I’ll remember this method when I get another one of these cars for this job.
Will be doing this job in a couple weeks and VERY much appreciate your input!
This is what elite DIY videos are supposed to be. This dude gets it. Excellent Sir!!!! Thank you!!!!
Excellent video.
Very informative and helpful tips.
this video was very well done... very professional and easy to follow and understandable
I really appreciate how thorough this was. Thank you for your effort in recording everything.
Thank You for Making This Video, I Just Got My Corolla Back from The Shop The Check Engine light Came On. I Found Out That My idle Air/Speed Control Valve Assy, R&R Needed To Be Replaced And it Was Expensive to fix but I Had it Done Because I Needed My Car . But Now I Noticed Driving Home from The Mechanic Shop That Now My Steering Wheel Vibrates and Shakes A little. But Now I Gotta Wait Until I Have The Money to get it Checked And Fixed. "Ugh"... Seems like One Thing After Another!!😥😲.
Well, it's 2022 and this was still very helpful, thank you. Note: I removed the bolts for the power steering reservoir which made it easier to remove the right side mount. And it is better to remove the radiator fan shroud and just place a piece of cardboard, plywood or the like to protect the radiator.
Cool. The rear mount is different on the 4WD models, and requires that you loosen the steering rack to get the bolt that goes through the bushing out. I did three mounts so far, gotta do the R side mount. I have a 2006 Matrix 4WD with over 210,000 miles.
The rear mount on a manual transmission is MUCH harder with 2 clutch cables in the way! But great job and camera work
Very, very helpful. I just watched it again. I have 3 out of 4 so far on an 08 MT.
I think I have to pull the shifter cables from the tranny to fit the mount out. I have it loose, but can't get it out.
BAD ASS how to video. This shows everything, gives experienced advice on what worked best, shows what tools are needed, and gives up close video as well as regular video distance. I couldn't have asked for a better how to video. I am a mobile mechanic with an ASE master certification and 40+ years experience. I see different cars with different problems everyday so I look to find how to vids to save time and wasted effort. Thank you for the hands down BEST how to car repair video that I've ever seen.👍👍
Thank you! It's awesome to see the videos helping!
How long did the replacement of all four mounts take you?
Excellent great job I really appreciate the detailed explanation of everything
Is it true to say if you feel a bunch of vibration when idling, that means one or all four of the motor mounts could be bad? Awesome video by the way bro!!! 💪🙏🤙👍
That's correct. Keep in mind that *could* is the key word. There are a number of things that could cause excessive vibration, and the motor mounts are just one of the many reasons that can cause that.
Quick question, i have a pretty low corolla, I'm talking about the middle exhaust is scraping driving normally. My question is do you think it's possible to raise the engine using washers? Is there enough space?
I would just lift the car (and use jack stands of course) enough to create enough clearance for another jack to slide under the oil pan.
Much appreciated. The Firestone dealer wanted $1200 to do this. The only hard one was the getting the rear mount out after the bolts were removed. I gave up on that one. I purchased the mounts on Amazon for only $80.
What mounts did you end up purchasing @politics
Where did you buy your parts from?
Excellent explanatory and demonstrational video! Not only are you very specific, but you also remind us to keep our cool and have good attitudes! Thank you so much!
This is the best " how to" car repair video I've ever seen. I'm changing motor mounts on my son's corolla, and couldn't have tackled it without this video. Thanks!
My first time bout to change it with Fam overlooking.... It's truly appreciated 👍🏽
I just wanted to add, because I'm in Australia the steering column wasn't in the way, and was much easier for me to get the rear mount out. The only issue was getting the torque wrench tight enough because of the lack of space, but got there eventually. That's the only thing I did notice, that you didn't mention any torque settings for any of the bolts. But I eventually found them. Thanks again.
Where did you find them mate??
@@MonsieurCafe I'm so sorry I didn't know you replied to my comment. I downloaded a manual off the internet it was a zip file called Toyota Corolla 03 08 WSM. It's a bit hard to navigate but it's worth while. I'm not sure whee I found it but I hope it helps.
@@cheryl2400 Wow man I did that and my email is not spam free anymore. I ended up buying a manual from Haynes, really good and cheap one
This is a Perfect video A+A+A+ Thank you.
Just started today with the front mount, got all the way thru getting the new one in when I realized the old bracket was hella bent and was not gonna let me install the new mount so with one trip to the junkyard I’m going back at it tomorrow.
Cool. Super helpful. I have a 2006 Matrix AWD with 194k miles and just replaced battery and pulled tray for a look around and there is the busted transmission mount. Looks pretty easy to do. Did you get oem or aftermarket mounts? Also, you can place a piece of cardboard over radiator to protect it when you remove fan shroud.
The cardboard trick is great advice and yeah that mount is a lot easier to change than most people think. We used aftermarket mounts for this job.
@@arapartsThanks.
On the first transmission mount, did you secure the transmission with jack?
Thanks for so a helpful video.!
The mount towards the rear (kinda “A” shaped) I absolutely did move the jack towards the rear of the transmission casing. That’s thing one I didn’t record and should have. I did mention it. It is an important detail. I was unable to get enough movement to get the bolt to go through. Find a good spot as close to that mount on the transmission, and you’ll get enough movement to get the bolt in place. 💪
My 2001 Celica needs the passenger side mount. My little shop said $330. The dealer wants $240 for the part. NAPA wants $75. Rock auto wants $30 - $70.
Yeah that sounds about average.
That was a great video. Very thorough and well explained. I'm confident now that I can do this job myself. Seriously, have you ever thought about teaching? Well done sir.
Did you end of doing this job?
@@05kittycat1 Yes, but I should have bought the right side motor mount from the dealer. The aftermarket one I bought did not line up right. I didn’t change the rear motor/transmission mount because I don’t have a lift. It wasn’t nearly as bad as the others anyway.
I had to replace my radiator fan one summer so I knew it was easy to remove when I replaced my starter a few weeks later and nicked the radiator fins with the old starter. WHOOPS. Small leak. Time for new radiator also. Luckily a local store had one in stock. Cardboard protection would have helped.
This past summer I did the rear and right mounts with he intention of doing the transmission and front mounts later. Well, a move and hurricane later they got thrown away. At least they weren't too expensive. I just have to wait till summer now.
260k+ miles on the 2005 S and it's still running good.
How have your mounts held up?
@@05kittycat1 not sure. I'll gave to wait for warmer temps to check it good.
I'd like to thank you for including the bolt size. That in itself is a time saver.
Thanks for the video. Excellent documented video. 👍
I have a Toyota Corolla 05’ and I just got a diagnostic check and I have so much problems and I need help with fixing it. Can you make more videos like this one! 🙏 I have a spiral cable malfunction, LF outer CV Boot torn/missing, RF inner&outer CV boot torn/flinging grease excessive movement in LF CV joint, replace both CV axles. All engine mounts tearing/collapsing, timing cover leak-5, P/S pressure & return hoses leaking -5, P/S pump leaking -4, Oil pan leak -4, Valve cover gasket leak -3.
When we get another one of these, we will keep this in mind for sure! 👍
@ J M check out Toyota Maintenance here on YT he has a great channel all Toyotas.
Get a new car.
We sold my wife’s car before we had to replace these but they were getting bad and they told us it would be ~$500 to get the transmission mount replaced. Although this didn’t technically didn’t save me any money, I appreciate the guide. You made it look a lot easier than $500 😂
I have 2003 matrix xrs the motor mounts are $600 at the Toyota dealer🤑🔫
Awesome video, yes the rear mount was a nightmare for me. The rest very easy.
Hello I plan on buying these mounts for mine did you buy these exact ones? And if you did how did they hold up?
For that rear mount, I actually had an easier time taking it out from the left side (on screen) of the hoses there. Took maybe 10 mins to figure that out but I had a hell of a time trying to get that center bolt back in. For some reason it just wouldnt line up right. I used a crow bar shoved in to the front of it and then a big flat head screw driver to pry it down slightly where I needed it. Very informative vid on this from you. Thank you!
Hello, how have your mounts held up?
@@05kittycat1 so far so good 😁
@@bdawg2513 did you use the same ones from this video?
@@05kittycat1 I used MOOG brand. I don't remember which ones were used in the video. But MOOG is a pretty good brand in my opinion
@@bdawg2513 yes I’ve heard of that brand how much did you pay? And how did they line up?
Dude...great video! Got two of the mounts knocked out today, working the other two tomorrow but this video is so easy to follow! Thank you so much brother! Love the intro. Friggen hilarious!
What kind of mounts did you buy? The same ones he is replacing with? I want to replace mine,but don’t know which mounts to buy.
@@romualdomartinez7670 i have the same question did you ever end up doing your mounts?
@@05kittycat1 I bought a full set of the 4 mounts for $60 off eBay brand new. They are cheap Chinese parts so I'm not sure how long they're going to last but I believe they'll take me the last 70k that I may hopefully get out of the engine
@@adamnasir2 thank you, wishing your matrix the best, we love ours!!!
@@adamnasir2did they hold up for you?
Had vibrations when accelerating and when holding brake down when at stop light but no vibration when I kept it in neutral and no vibration when in reverse. Changed the motor mounts and the transmission mount and now the vibrations stopped but now it vibrates when only in reverse gear and briefly when I apply the brake to stop. Any ideas??
Could be warped rotors causing your wheels to feel like they are shaking when you break
One of the best motor mount videos on TH-cam! 🙏 👍
Wow. You make it look doable. Thankyou for all the detail and the relaxing music. Triple thumbs up.
I just came from the shop and they quoted me $2,000 for all for Mounts. I came across your video so hopefully it will help me but I have a Corolla 2011 so I don’t think it will be too different. Let see. I let you know when I do the job.
Those are OEM mounts? How are they holding up? OEM prices for these mounts doubled in price since Feb, I might get OEM mounts for the firewall side and the passenger side mount which they seem more critical than the front radiator side and transaxle mount.
This was a friends car and he brought his own aftermarket mounts. He was happy and it's been 2 years and so far so good.
@@araparts may I ask what brand aftermarket mounts?
@ 0:45 you placed a long piece of wood/ rubber block to spread the weight on the engine, but placing it under the oil pan isn't it risky in the case here??
Not at all. The oil pan on this engine is solid enough to not cave in or get bent from lifting the engine this way. It may not be the same for larger heavier engines however.
I'm just gonna put this here for anyone else watching, my oil pan got bent from doing it this way.(07 corolla) I put the wood long ways instead of across, and I think I may have tried to raise it too much, but just so you know it can definitely happen lol. Luckily it didn't bend too much and its pretty easy to replace, not that its a big issue its just cosmetic, but yeah if you want to avoid this, I would recommend jacking it by the actual transmission instead of the oil pan.
Man you're simply a legend, thank you very much for the video!
What auto parts did you buy your engine mount from. I bought my rear mount from Part Source here in Canada but one of the bolts didn’t line up in the holes so I returned it back to the store.
We used our own parts on this one. When installing the rear mount, keep in mind that for the rear mount specifically, you will have to reposition your jack to another location. I didn't put enough emphasis on this detail in the video, but if your jack is directly under the oil pan, it will not allow you to move the engine/transmission assembly enough to get the center bolt through the rear mount.
@@araparts I tried jacking it up at different location but one of the bolts doesn’t line up to hole in the frame. It was off by almost 1/16 of an inch.The part manufacturer didn’t make right. Someone made a comment on other video that he had to grind it out to fit. Thanks for your reply.
@@reaksmeymaranda2341 Ahh one of the lower bolts. Those are different. You are right. That definitely sounds like a defect, or freight damage.
Nice job, very helpful, thank you!
EXCELENTE, GRACIAS. ME AYUDÓ MUCHO TU VIDEO!!!
Where underneath are you jacking the car up? i missed that part
I didn't include this part in this video unfortunately. Here is a picture of the jack and support points. The support points in this video are the pinch weld.
toyotaowners.b-cdn.net/uploads/monthly_2020_09/000088.jpg.bdcb6aeefbf136c9993d1bc2c6bf4814.jpg?ToyotaOwnersClub&ForumLinks
I typically jack up from the front and place my jack stands on the pinch welds. When I want to raise higher, I jack from the pinch welds with a good jack pad that doesn't bend the pinch welds. I also would only jack the car up a little at a time on each side if you are raising it up really high which you can only do with 3 ton and bigger jack stands. I don't have a jacking image for this specific car, but there are points in the front and rear where you can jack the car up. I recommend using a jack pad that has the pinch weld support to prevent bending the pinch weld. If you bend the pinch weld, don't worry - just bend it back. Take some time to find a good jack pad that fit your jack well.
Anyone know if all 4 mounts are the same on an AWD???
The AWD shares the same front and transmission mount, but the right (main) and rear mounts are different for the AWD models.
24:04 nice reference lmao
Very professional made video and detailed instructions. Thank you
I Really Enjoy Watching your Video, I Went To The Dealer To find Out How Much To Replace My Motor Mounts And if They Replace All Four With Labor it Will Cost Me $ 2,900. For Everything. That's Crazy!! I'm Going To Keep Checking Around for A Better Deal.
It's not hard at all. Try to do it with a friend.
I wish u were in QLD 4118 Australia si that I can coem to u for all my TOYOTA servicing. Here our car mechanics r not TRUSTWORTHY like u But on Friday as I was coming home I stopped at a7-11Servo where I saw an AC mechanic He showed me like u r doing the correct way to use yr internal car cabin switches
perfect explanation and guide. thanks
Great video! Thank you!
Top notch DIY vid !!
Easy peasy, right !!
Bro this is the best video I've ever seen thank you so much
Thank u mate for showing to RENEWToyota Engine mounts which i am doing similar in Australia a; for the last few days n I do not have the GENUINE Toyota mounts. n the mechanic used a second-grade mount I have a 2006 Toyota YARIS auto 5 dr hatch
bad ass video.helped me out big time...had to watch over and over..had Hell with the rear mount but finally got it..took 2 weeks.
Awesome! Yeah that rear mount is definitely a doozy to remove and install.
Fantastic! I felt I could take on replacing myself, thank you!
Changing the infamous rear mount tomorrow. LoL Thanks for this video. It's been a good while since I changed a motor mount. Should be interesting !
Any update homie
@@-darrell @@-darrell fully installed. Dealership bought. Was more easier than I thought. Most challenging part was lifting the transmission to level it to insert middle bolt. Rough idle 99% gone. Old mount was completely broken apart and demolished when I removed it. I got lucky.
I Also changed my fuel injector seals. They were leaking. 05 matrix running real smooth now.. Will be Replacing lower control arms next!
@@ShieldandBucklerMusic Thanks Mando
Hello you said you bought your mounts from the dealership?
@@05kittycat1 I did buy mines from the dealership. It cost more than aftermarket but they will outlast the aftermarket ones by a lot.
You still didn't show how to get screw off by transmission the right spot
best engine mount replacement video for the matrix, vibe, corolla. thank you
IT DID NOT SHOW WHERE TO SUPPORT FOR EACH MOUNT TO REMOVE!
Use oil pan for right and front mount. Support on transmission for transmission mount and for the rear mount, you want to move your jack near the rear of the transmission. As close to the mount as possible
@@araparts THANKS
Thanks for the video! Everything was spot on!
How often would you say these need to be changed?
We see an average life of around 5 years. Some sooner, some later. There are a lot of factors: Driving style is a big one. Climate is another. The Right hand mount in front of the timing cover carries most of the weight and will always wear much faster than the rest of the mounts.
@@araparts Great! thanks for the fast reply!
my 04 Corolla has 203000KM, I can bet they were never changed so I think I have a project on my hands!
Thanks again boss!
Hi, we had exhaust replaced (including converter) on my wife's 2007 Vibe. After the new converter installed, the Vibe developed some vibration. There was check engine light and my wife brought the car back to the garage. The garage then told us the motor mounts needed to be replaced. We agreed, as the vibration was quite noticeable and even damaged the new exhaust. All mounts were replaced.
After the mount replacement, an oil leak happened, that required a new valve gasket.
Now after 2300 $ bill the car vibrates terribly and rambles loudly in reverse, and in Drive, when idle, at a stop and in slower speeds. There is also some knocking when driving and the car does not stay driving, gas pedal has to be constantly pushed. The garage basically gave us the car saying they cannot do anything else to improve the vibration. It however keeps damaging things, even the trunk rattles now and the doors and windows as well. Any idea if we can save the car?
Wow, that's a lot of stuff going on after they worked on the car. I would take it to a second place for a different opinion. The 2007 Vibe 1.8L is a well built car overall and they're never complicated enough to not be saved.
Go underneath the car and make sure all the mount bolts are tight..
I made this mistake with the front mount and it vibrated and rattled like crazy! I only drove about 3ft when I caught it..
And pull your coil packs and check your plugs and make sure there is no oil on them.. I found oil on the #1 plug about 3 months after I replaced the valve cover. I'm not sure why that happened but its been okay since. It was causing a vibration but didn't illuminate the check engine light.
Also jack up the front wheels and use jackstands on both sides and do an inspection of all the bolts on the motor mount and anything else you see you should be able track down the knocking noise..
Normally a stuck brake caliper will cause the car not to coast while not pressing the accelerator pedal.
It sounds like the shop messed up somewhere... Older Corollas do tend to have a slight vibration and a little engine noise that is normal.
@@RicardoSilvas-uq6wn thank you for your input. We are concerned that while the shop was replacing the mounts they damaged either the engine or transmission. I am 1500 miles away and my wife is trying to get diagnostics in town she currently is in, and we had already poor experience with GM dealership there(long story).One private place associated with Napa, kept the car twice for a day, and did nothing (scheduled for 9 am , she got the car back at 4 pm) no charge, they sent her back to the same shop that did all major work. Update. She had the same shop to replace spark plugs. She also noticed the air intake tube was loose and just banging behi d the battery (it used to be fastened at the headlight ) and got them to get it screwed back in...They claim they cleaned MAF and throttle body. Strange smell like burning persists at drivers side and sewing machine noise also. Louder towards the bottom of the engine drivers side. Hesitation and struggle when accelerating from stop signs...She also said it seems there is some vibration and noise in neutral.
This was a great video! I need to replace mines on my 03 Corolla
Did you have a suspension type knocking on the vehicle? We have a 2003 model which this could be the problem as the suspension, top mounts etc seem ok
This was a friends car. It has over 400k miles and it's very well taken care of. I only noticed a minimal improvement, even though all of the mounts had noticeable wear and (literal) tears. Though I didn't drive the car very far myself. Didn't notice any knocking noises, etc.
That rear mount hard...There is a bracket that supports the mount that had three bolts on very awkward location...had to remove bracket first..
Yeah, the rear mount is definitely a challenge.
This video does help, I vent the bolt lol on the rear engine mount
Cant you take the bottom plate out instead of removing the radiator fan?
Yes according to another commenter...5 minute job then!
did he say any of the torque specs or very detailed except the most important details ..
you can look those up yourself
you helped me save money thank you
Did you jack up the engine at all for the front motor mount? Going to start this job tomorrow
I had the jack supporting the engine, but it doesn’t move much when removing the front mount. It’s best to have the jack just in case the engine shifts a little. It’ll make it easier to line up the center through bolt on the front mount.
@@arapartsappreciate the quick response thank you!
Appreciate the guide. Thank you
Thank you very much!!
Do the manual transmission 2006 toyota corolla le 5sp have 3 or 4mounts
Both auto and 5 speed manual have 4 mounts.
@@araparts thanks ordered and already received only needed a FS passenger mount. Doing a clutch job and noticed only this mount was torn.
Excelent
Tanks
thanks
Do you offer any solid steel engine mounts? I don't want to have to replace them again once they wear out again. Much appreciated
I'm like 99% sure this is my old coworker messing with me lol, but in case it isn't, I'll still answer this with some knowledge. Solid steel mounts would be considered performance parts. Most performance mounts are polyurethane, there are a few cars that have used solid steel mounts as upgrades (believe it or not) like the CTS-V. We don't have performance mounts at the moment, but plan on carrying them in the future.
The rear mount, the through bolt. Is there a nut behind it securing that bolt?
@@junzilla13 Yes, there is a nut, but it's welded to the engine mount bracket, so it will (should) stay in place)
@@araparts thanks!
@@junzilla13 yes
Are those aftermarket mounts?
Yes.
Is this the same as for a 2014?
It's similar. Keep in mind that none of these mounts are cross compatible with the 2014 model year, but they are still designed similarly to this model year and the job will be similar, but not the same.
@@araparts thanks brother
Every time I see a toyota video I thanks God for finding Hyundai Elantra 2008.